Inside Aesthetics

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Latest Episodes:

Ep 127 What Happened When the Government Regulated Cosmetic Injectables in Holland? | Dr Tom van Eijk Jun 24, 2021

Show notes

Episode 127 hosts Dr Tom van Eijk (Cosmetic Doctor based in Amsterdam, Holland)

Tom left surgical training in 2003 to focus on injectables and by 2005, had begun teaching students. He is especially well known for his 'ferning' and lip 'tenting' techniques which he has presented all around the world.

In many of our previous episodes we've speculated what a formal pathway in training in cosmetic injectables might look like - and so we found the only country who has done just that.

In 2019 in Holland, cosmetic injectables became recognised as a medical speciality and a training programme was created under governmental control. Tom gives his unfiltered opinion on this and tells us what led to these changes. We explore whether it was necessary and assess what Australian injectors could learn from the Dutch experience.

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Tom van Eijk and His Journey Into Injectables 05:59 Early Days of Fillers and Treatment Evolution 10:56 Developing the Ferning Technique Explained 18:27 Strengthening Skin Versus Adding Volume 26:25 Regulation Changes in the Netherlands 33:29 Why Cosmetic Doctor Specialization Was Created 41:37 Cost, Training Pathway and Industry Politics 48:53 Fear, Credentials and Professional Pressure 52:09 Comparing Global Regulation Including UK and Australia 61:45 Challenges Designing the Perfect Training System 68:49 Common Safety Mistakes and Basic Clinical Standards 76:38 Role of Experience, Mentorship and Ongoing Education 80:09 Emergency Preparedness and Managing Complications 86:34 Final Thoughts on Regulation, Competence and Patient Safety

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Ep 126 How Should We Regulate Injectables in Australia? | Dr Steven Liew, Dr Davin Lim, Dr Michael Molton & Jacinta King Jun 17, 2021

Show notes

Episode 126 hosts our first ever panel discussion on the podcast. We were joined by four Australian-based guests:

Dr Steven Liew (Plastic Surgeon and internationally-recognised injectable KOL)
Dr Davin Lim (Cosmetic Dermatologist)
Dr Michael Molton (Cosmetic Physician & President of the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia)
Jacinta King (Registered Nurse & President of the Cosmetic Nurses Association)

This open and very frank discussion was planned to provide an open forum to discuss the main and contentious issues that we experience in the Australian injectables space including:

- Which professionals are permitted to inject and whether there is a need for tighter regulations?

- Injectables in non-medical clinics, is appropriate?

- Teleconsulting and remote prescribing for nurse injectors

- The death of Jean Huang in 2017 in Sydney, what came of this and what, if anything, came of this?

- The underlying 'turf war' between injectors of different professions

- What we can do as a collective to improve the state of our industry?

00:00 Introduction 02:00 Meet Our Guests: Dr Steven Liew, Dr Davin Lim, Dr Michael Molton & Jacinta King 05:30 Who Should Inject 08:50 Scope And Training 15:40 Dentists And Definitions 23:15 Where Injectables Happen 30:25 Nurse Collaboration Debate 33:15 Telehealth Prescribing 40:55 Prescribing Accountability 41:30 Telehealth Safety Debate 43:05 Complications and Blindness Cases 46:30 Telehealth Here to Stay 48:40 Who Is Liable 53:15 Collaboration in Practice 55:00 Industry Turf War 01:06:25 Complaints and Mandatory Reporting 01:14:40 Regulation Changes and Nurse Voice 01:17:05 Stakeholders Unite 01:19:50 Logbooks and Accountability 01:23:40 Credentialing and Qualifications 01:26:05 Emergency Support Services 01:32:50 Training Paths Compared 01:37:55 Who Should Train Injectors 01:42:10 What to Teach First 01:47:45 Wrap Up and Contacts

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Ep 125 Filler Rheology – The Characteristics & Properties of Fillers | Dr Hervé Raspaldo Jun 10, 2021

Show notes

Episode 125 hosts Dr Hervé Raspaldo (Facial plastic surgeon based in Geneva, Switzerland)

Hervé specialises in surgical and non-surgical rejuvenation treatments of the face and neck and is especially known for his non-surgical rhinoplasty techniques. He is an international trainer and KOL for Vivacy, a French dermal filler company.

We discuss the various types of fillers available on the market including the reversible as well as permanent types.

We then explore filler rheology (the science of the physical properties of the materials) including cohesivity, elasticity, cross-linking and how these influence longevity and the patient experience.

Herevé shares which filler brand he currently uses in addition to his experience with using 3D photography, ultrasound and MRI to track results and assess complications.

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Hervé Raspaldo 05:59 Growth of Aesthetic Treatments During COVID 10:56 Early Adoption of Botox and Fillers in Europe 18:27 Understanding Filler Rheology and Gel Properties 26:25 Hyaluronic Acid Fillers and How They Work 33:29 Other Filler Types Including Calcium and Biostimulators 41:37 Risks of Permanent Fillers and Why They Were Abandoned 48:53 Fat Grafting and When It Is Used in the Face 52:09 Cross Linking, Longevity and Tissue Integration Explained 61:45 Choosing the Right Filler for Different Facial Areas 68:49 Longevity of Fillers and Why Results Vary Between Patients 76:38 Filler Migration Debate and Overfilling Risks 80:09 Safety Techniques Including Needles, Cannulas and Monitoring 86:34 Final Thoughts on Product Choice, Technique and Patient Safety

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Ep 124 A Guide to Modern Male Grooming | Stephen Handisides Jun 03, 2021

Show notes

Episode 124 hosts Stephen Handisides (International TV Presenter, Journalist & Publisher based in Los Angeles, USA)

Most recently, Stephen launched 'Modern Male Mindset', a digital lifestyle platform for the modern gentleman covering topics including male grooming, skincare and etiquette advice.

We first discuss the basics of male aesthetics including styling and fashion, teasing out what men can do to up their game.

We then explore aesthetic treatments and get a better understanding of how clinics might better appeal to male customers, what treatments they want and the male psychology surrounding cosmetic intervention.

Finally we discuss Stephen's latest venture that helps businesses develop incredible virtual experiences fit for the post-COVID era and beyond.

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Stephen Handisides 05:59 Surge in Aesthetic Demand After Lockdowns 10:56 Building the My Face My Body Brand and Media Career 18:27 Rise of Male Grooming and the Modern Male Mindset 26:25 Changing Attitudes Toward Men's Self Care and Appearance 33:29 Basic Grooming Essentials Every Man Should Know 41:37 Fashion, Presentation and First Impressions for Men 48:53 Popular Aesthetic Treatments Among Male Patients 52:09 Growth of the Male Market in Cosmetic Clinics 59:04 How Clinics Can Attract More Male Patients 01:07:16 Designing Male Friendly Clinic Experiences 01:14:29 Future Trends in Men's Aesthetics and Non Surgical Treatments 01:21:52 Launch of My Face My Body Awards and Education Platforms 01:28:35 Virtual Clinics and Patient Engagement Technology 01:37:03 Final Thoughts on Marketing, Innovation and Industry Growth

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Ep 123 Inside Aesthetics x Through Thick & Skin Swapcast! | Dr Jake Sloane & David Segal May 27, 2021

Show notes

Episode 123 is a swapcast! This week the roles are reversed as our hosts Dr Jake & David become the guests on the hugely popular US podcast 'Through Thick & Skin'.

Hosted by Erin Jensen (Aesthetic Physicians Assistant) and her sister Megan Pattison (Experience Expert), the Through Thick and Skin podcast has similar synergy and goals to Inside Aesthetics. Erin and Megan showcase real, non-bs, safe and effective injectable treatments and tips on how to improve your skin.

We discuss the birth of Inside Aesthetics and a little bit more about Dr Jake & David's back stories. We then contrast the fascinating differences between the medical aesthetic landscapes of Australia vs USA.

We share our learnings and experiences on what COVID has taught us, how the industry has bounced back and where we are headed now - plus a few things that never change wherever you treat paying patients including high expectations, identifying red flag patients, how and when to say no and more!

00:00 Introduction 05:59 Starting the Inside Aesthetics Podcast Journey 10:56 Building the Podcast and Finding Early Guests 18:27 Partnership Dynamics and Complementary Skill Sets 26:25 Doctors Versus Business Owners in Clinic Success 33:29 Importance of Hiring the Right Team 41:37 Role of Social Media in Clinic Growth 48:53 What Defines a Med Spa Versus Cosmetic Clinic 52:09 Most Popular Treatments and Patient Demand 59:04 Post COVID Boom in Aesthetic Treatments 01:07:16 Why Patients Value Aesthetic Care Beyond Vanity 01:14:29 Global Trends and Differences in Aesthetic Practice 01:21:52 Managing Patient Expectations and Saying No 01:28:35 Training, Education and Industry Development 01:37:03 Future Podcast Ideas and Industry Topics

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Ep 122 Over-Treatment, Filler Migration & the Alienisation of Faces | Dr Steven Harris May 20, 2021

Show notes

Episode 122 hosts Dr Steven Harris (Cosmetic Physician based in London, UK)

Steven has an international reputation for his approach to injecting. He strongly believes in treating the face holistically by respecting the anatomy and it's proportions. This is something that he has championed for many years and continues to advocate through his social media channels and to his patients.

This episode's main theme discusses fillers and the growing phenomenon of the over-treatment of patients. We discuss how and why this is happening, who's fault it is and what the implications are.

We debate how techniques like 'tenting' that he feels may lead to the issue of filler 'migration', the truth about filler longevity and Dr Harris' approach to dealing with poor filler results - including his 'Dissolving clinic' and how he uses hyalase.

To balance the argument, we also explore what the role of the injector really is and dig deep into what their duties are - are they artists, free to express their patients choices or should they only treat people how they see fit and according to their own aesthetic principles?

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Steven Harris 05:59 Transition From GP to Full Time Aesthetic Practice 10:56 Training Standards and Regulation Concerns 18:27 Rise of Dissolving Clinics and Patient Demand 26:25 Risks and Emotional Impact of Poor Filler Results 33:29 Who Is Responsible for Complications in Aesthetics 41:37 Importance of Artistry and Natural Facial Proportions 48:53 Understanding Tenting Technique and Associated Risks 52:09 Why Filler Can Last Longer Than Expected 59:04 Filler Spread Versus Migration Explained 01:07:16 Educating Patients and Managing Expectations 01:14:29 Role of Social Media in Driving Aesthetic Trends 01:21:52 Knowing Limits of Non Surgical Treatments 01:28:35 Safety First Approach and Saying No to Patients 01:37:03 Final Thoughts on Technique, Ethics and Patient Care

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Ep 121 Michael Jackson's Irish Cosmetic Doctor | Dr Patrick Treacy May 13, 2021

Show notes

Episode 121 hosts Dr Patrick Treacy (Cosmetic Physician from Dublin, Ireland)

We explore Patrick's unusual start to his medical career and his experiences in the early years as a doctor. After suffering a potentially life-ending needle stick injury in hospital, he travelled the world, worked in several remote locations before moving back to Ireland where the facial aesthetic industry hadn't yet started.

Patrick quickly pioneered some the very first injectable treatments including using both biostimulator and polyacrylamide fillers for facial lipodystrophy in HIV-patients. He was also the first doctor known to try something that we now take for granted as injectors - the use of hyaluronidase to dissolve HA fillers.

We get a fascinating perspective on how things have changed in facial aesthetics over 30 years before discussing Patrick's most famous patient - The King of Pop, Michael Jackson.

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Patrick Treacy 05:59 Discovering Aesthetic Medicine in the Early Days 10:56 Early Use of Botox and Dermal Fillers 18:27 Treating HIV Lipodystrophy and Complex Cases 26:25 Risks of Permanent Fillers and Lessons Learned 33:29 Pioneering the Use of Hyaluronidase for Complications 41:37 Managing Vascular Occlusions and Emergency Treatments 48:53 Role of Innovation Versus Evidence in Aesthetic Medicine 52:09 Business Growth and Building International Clinics 59:04 Financial Challenges During the Recession 01:07:16 Treating High Profile Patients and Professional Responsibility 01:14:29 Regulation Challenges in the UK and Ireland 01:21:52 Training Standards and Industry Accountability 01:28:35 Commercialization of Aesthetic Clinics and Pricing Models 01:37:03 Book Release and Final Thoughts on Patient Safety

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Ep 120 The Story of Botulinum Toxin | Dr Jean Carruthers May 06, 2021

Show notes

Episode 120 hosts Dr Jean Carruthers (Opthalmologist from Vancouver, Canada)

In the late 1980's working as an opthalmologist, Dr Carruthers and her husband Dr Alistair Carruthers (a dermatologist) pioneered how botulinum toxin can be used specifically for cosmetic purposes - now the most common cosmetic procedure in the world.

Jean is globally-recognised for her expertise in research and has authored more than 300 peer reviewed scientific publications, 70 book chapters and 9 textbooks. She's given thousands of presentations on cosmetic treatments and continues to lecture on the world stage as a keynote speaker.

We first discuss how she learnt to use botulinum toxin and the day she deliberately treated the first patient in the world for frown line treatment - her receptionist Cathy Swann. We learn how her peers initially dismissed the idea of injectable cosmetic treatments and yet over time, how Jean and Alistair designed the first trials and worked with Allergan to brand the treatment as 'Botox'.

We explore how the current protocols (known as prescribing information) were designed and learn how Dr Carruthers still does things to this day.

We also look into the future of toxins to discuss longer and shorter acting products, the issue of toxin resistance, which brands she favours and much, much more!

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Jean Carruthers 05:59 Discovering Botulinum Toxin for Medical Use 10:56 First Cosmetic Treatments and Early Patient Reactions 18:27 Publishing the First Study and Industry Skepticism 26:25 Early Dosing, Dilution and Injection Techniques 33:29 Building Evidence and Gaining Clinical Acceptance 41:37 Safety, Regulation and Importance of Trusted Products 48:53 Growth of the Aesthetic Industry and Changing Stigma 52:09 Emotional Impact of Treatments and Patient Confidence 59:04 Development of Cosmetic Botox and Commercial Adoption 01:07:16 Expanding Treatment Areas Beyond the Glabella 01:14:29 Lessons From Complications and Technique Refinement 01:21:52 New Toxin Innovations and Longer Lasting Products 01:28:35 Training Standards and Who Should Be Injecting 01:37:03 Future of Neuromodulators and Final Thoughts

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Ep 119 Lip Fillers | Julie Horne Apr 29, 2021

Show notes

Episode 119 hosts Julie Horne (Registered nurse injector based inCape Town, South Africa)

Originally from Sweden, Julie is a registered nurse and cared for cardio-thoracic patients for many years before turning her attention to aesthetics.

In 2017 she exploded onto the world's injecting scene with her 'Julie Horne Lips' technique, showcasing her expertise in lip fillers. As a result of her exquisite work and attention to detail, Julie is a KOL for Galderma and has become a highly sought after speaker and educator.

She is the co-owner of the Swiss Aesthetic Institute and founder of the Julie Horne Academy where she trains doctors and nurses to attend her internationally acclaimed 'Lip Masterclass'.

We first discuss Julie's personal motivations and route into injecting before going on a seriously deep dive into lip fillers. We explore male vs female treatments, the consultation and assessment, techniques including 'tenting' and 'lollipops', needle vs cannula, tricky lips, the issue of filler migration and much, much more!

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Julie Horne 05:59 Early Interest in Facial Aesthetics and Personal Lip Journey 10:56 Nursing Background and Transition Into Aesthetic Medicine 18:27 Building the Julie Horne Lips Brand 26:25 Training Path and Becoming a Global Educator 33:29 Role as a Key Opinion Leader and Teaching Philosophy 41:37 Why Lips Are a Gateway Treatment 48:53 Consultation Process and When to Say No 52:09 Assessing Patients, Symmetry and Natural Results 59:04 Vertical Injection Technique Explained 01:07:16 Debate Around Migration and Injection Safety 01:14:29 Trends Like Russian Lips and Threads 01:21:52 Cannula vs Needle and Aspiration Decisions 01:28:35 Causes of Overfilled Lips and Industry Responsibility 01:37:03 Dissolving Filler and Managing Complications 01:44:12 Advice for New Injectors and Career Development 01:51:20 Future Plans, Training and Final Wrap Up

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Ep 118 The Beauty of the World (Chapter 5): Dubai & the Middle East | Dr Pegah Dehdari Apr 22, 2021

Show notes

Episode 118 hosts Dr Michelle Wong aka Lab Muffin' (Cosmetic Chemist based in Sydney, Australia)

This is the fifth chapter of our miniseries, 'The Beauty Of The World'. In these episodes we host globally-renowned key opinion leaders to discuss their own regions beauty standards, aesthetic trends and the injectable market in their part of the world. We'll aim to understand what people find attractive, what influences this and celebrate the similarities and amazing differences amongst peoples faces and skin tones.

Pegah is a globally-renowned injector and acts as a Global key opinion leader for Allergan Aesthetics. Being of Persian-descent but being born and trained in Germany, she has a unique insight into the patient mindset and beauty ideals of the region.

In a region dominated by religious conservatism, we explore the interesting paradox where some of the most glamorous and groomed patients in the world live.

We get an understanding of the beauty standards of Middle Eastern patients and explore what motivates and influences patient requests. We also look at how this inter-plays with the dominant demographic group, ex-pats.

As always in this series, we then look at the specific treatments available, pricing and contrast this to other global markets.

00:00 Introduction 01:04 Meet Dr Pegah Dehdari 05:59 Moving From Germany to Dubai and Cultural Adjustment 10:56 Differences in Consultation Style Across Cultures 18:27 Working With Diverse Patient Populations in Dubai 26:25 How Beauty Standards Differ Across Middle Eastern Countries 33:29 Changing Trends From Exaggerated to Natural Results 41:37 Social Media Influence and Global Beauty Convergence 48:53 Managing Patient Expectations and Saying No to Overtreatment 52:09 Growth of Male Aesthetic Treatments in the Middle East 59:04 Typical Male Treatments and Masculinization Goals 01:07:16 Regulation of Injectables and Who Can Practice 01:14:29 Training Standards and Certification Pathways 01:21:52 Safety Oversight and Clinic Regulation in Dubai 01:28:35 Pricing Variation and Market Differences Across Regions 01:37:03 Popular Treatments, Devices and Combination Therapies 01:44:12 Threads, PRP and Evolving Treatment Preferences 01:51:20 Future Trends in Aesthetics and Final Wrap Up

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