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    Education

    Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast

    Published every Friday, the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast is brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. Each episode of the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast will feature an interview with a leading name in the competitive dog sports training world, talking in depth about issues that often get overlooked by traditional training methods.

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    Latest Episodes:
    E49: Denise Fenzi - "Play" Feb 09, 2018
    Show notes

    SHOW NOTES: Summary: Denise Fenzi is the founder of the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy (FDSA). She has competed in a wide range of dog sports, titling dogs in obedience, tracking, Schutzhund, Mondioring, herding, conformation, and agility. She is best-known for her flashy and precise obedience work, as demonstrated by two AKC OTCH dogs and perfect scores in both Schutzhund and Mondioring sport obedience. Her specialty is in developing motivation, focus, and relationship in competition dogs, and she has consistently demonstrated the ability to train and compete with dogs using motivational methods in sports where compulsion is the norm. Next Episode: To be released 2/16/2018, featuring Julie Flanery, talking about all the things you were never taught in puppy class. TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Denise Fenzi. At this point, Denise probably needs to introduction, and I want to save every minute of this interview that we can for what we're here to talk about today: the benefits of play. So welcome back to the podcast Denise! Denise Fenzi: Hi Melissa. Thank you for having me. Melissa Breau: I'm excited. This is a good topic. To start us out, do you want to just remind listeners who each of the dogs is that you share your life with right now? Denise Fenzi: I have three dogs. Raika is the oldest. She's 13-and-a-half and doing very well. There's Lyra, and I believe she's about 6 now, and she is also doing well. And there is little Brito, my terrier mix. He's 4 now. Melissa Breau: It seems like it was not long ago that you got him. Denise Fenzi: Yeah. Every time I think about it, I'm kind of amazed at how time goes by. Melissa Breau: As I mentioned in the intro, we're going to talk about play today… and I think a lot of people who sign up for your class on the topic, they're thinking about one thing: its benefits for competition. So do you want to just briefly talk about what those are, and how play fits into the competition picture? Denise Fenzi: Sure. My online play class covers personal play, which is interaction without toys and food, and also covers toy play and play with food. Most people, when they talk about play, personal play, are thinking in terms of what they can do when they go in a competition ring with their dog when they don't have their cookies and toys. That's actually pretty understandable and is actually what caused me to explore the issue in the first place. But the longer I've been playing with it, and teaching the class, and exploring the topic, the more I've realized that the question's a little bit premature. It probably makes more sense to think about play in terms of building the underlying relationship, and less energy should be spent on what you are going to do with that play. The reason it matters is because the play you can use in the ring may have absolutely nothing to do with the play you do at home while you are working to develop your relationship. But you can't jump ahead. You have to go through the process. So it's kind of an issue of goal versus process. I have noticed — I've taught this class many times now, I would say maybe five times — and I have noticed that the students come into the class with a different perspective. The very first time I taught the class it was kind of universal. Every person said the same thing, which is, "But how will I use this in competition?" And honestly, this term, so far not one student has actually said that. So change is taking place. I don't know if it's because the reputation of the class has encouraged that, or if it's our student base has developed and they see things differently. I'm not sure, but it certainly has saved me some time writing to people, "Please let's focus on the process for now. We'll get to that later." Melissa Breau: What kind of benefits can learning to play with your dog really have on that underlying relationship? Denise Fenzi: The one I usually bring up first is that to play well with a dog without food or toys requires an incredible amount of attention to how the dog is responding to what you are doing, kind of on a second-by-second basis, because if you do something that you think is attractive to your dog and your dog has a different opinion, you have about a half a second to figure that out before your dog avoids you. Now I look at this as all a great big learning opportunity, so it's not a problem that your dog runs off when you do something. You say to yourself, "Well, maybe I shouldn't do that again." What I find is that the process of teaching play is probably the fastest way for me to teach people how to observe their dog's body language, because everything is so immediate. The handler does something, the dog responds, the handler responds, the dog gives a final response, and if you made good decisions at those two junctures, then you will have a good response or a neutral response, and if you misread the dog's behavior, you will get instant feedback, and I find that's invaluable. Melissa Breau: So how does that compare or maybe mix with play's role as a motivator for training? Denise Fenzi: Well, within training, if I still have my food and my toys, I primarily use it as a way to break up sessions. For example, over the last month I've been recording every single session with Lyra and Brito learning to heel on my right-hand side, which is a new thing for all of us. That means I'm spending longer than I should on each training session. So let's say that an ideal training session with a new skill is a minute, which is probably about right. After I've taken the time to set up the video camera and make it happen, just for purely pragmatic reasons I cannot do that. But what I can do is train for a minute, stop, and play with my dog. It can be as little as five seconds. As a matter of fact, it often … that would be normal. Five seconds, 10 seconds, maybe 15 or 20 seconds — that would be unusual — and then I can ask for another minute or two. Those little mini-breaks relax everyone. They relax me and the dog, and they let go of the stress which is invariably part of learning. So while positive reinforcement training is designed to be fun and to be low stress, that doesn't change the fact that sometimes the dog or the human is not getting it right and that builds up stress. So being able to play in the middle of a session is really a fantastic thing for everyone. If nothing else, it reminds the handler of why they have their dog, and it reminds the dog that "Everything's good, mama still loves me even if I make some mistakes, everything is fine here." Melissa Breau: I know you touched on this a little bit already, but how does learning to play really help people read their dog and why is that beneficial? Denise Fenzi: I think for anybody involved in dog training, being able to read your dog is 90 percent of the game. It's actually so significant that now when people describe to me what is happening with their dog, I almost refuse to answer if I don't have a video, because I find it so common that I see something different than they see. So when people can see what their dog is doing and accurately interpret it, their training is going to skyrocket. It's hard to underestimate the value of accurately reading your dog's behavior. For example, when dogs walk off in the middle of training to sniff, the vast majority of novice trainers see that as the dog finding something better to do. They found a good smell. It takes a lot of time to learn that most of the time the dog is actually avoiding you, and while that's a little uncomfortable, recognizing it for what it is, it's not a condemnation of you as a person. It simply means that whatever you are doing at that moment at that time is causing distress to your dog. It's nothing more than that. So if I'm in a training session and it seems to be going OK, and my dog starts to scratch or shows some other sign of distress, I don't get upset about it. I just change my ways. That is something that play can give to you — that quick ability to in real time instantly identify how your dog is feeling. And while I specifically called that distress, that's equally true of a happy dog. So what are your dog's happy signals? What do the ears do? What does the mouth do? What do the eyes do? What does the tail do? There's a lot to the picture. And there's just the sheer fun of it, right? So for the handler to look at their dog and recognize their dog really wants to be there, and to feel confident in that assessment, that really does amazing things for your training. Melissa Breau: What about specifically for anxious dogs? Are there benefits to learning to play for those dogs? Denise Fenzi: Personally, I don't go in that direction in my classes. What I tell people is, "My job is going to be to help you become a better play partner to your dog." That is my emphasis. However, I know that, for example, Amy Cook, who also teaches at the Academy, she uses play as a way of relaxing dogs in stressful situations, and also as a barometer for the dog's suitability for the place where it's at. So being able to play with an anxious dog is actually super-critical to behavior work. The other thing is, in my opinion, when you play with your dog, what you're able to tell them is that everything's OK and that you're on their side. To be able to communicate that is a big deal. If I'm with somebody and I'm feeling a little nervous, they can absolutely hand me something to eat, it will certainly distract me. But if they put their hand on my shoulder and tell me, "You know what? It's OK. It's going to be OK. I'm right here with you," that's a completely different level of support. And I think being able to play with your dog, especially with an anxious dog, will take you in the right direction. Melissa Breau: What about me as the human or handler? Is play really all about the dog, or are there benefits for me, too? Denise Fenzi: A few years ago I was going to give — not a webinar — a presentation on play to an audience, and I thought it might be a tough sell to that particular audience. So I felt the need to have a little bit of background and backup for my assertion that I think play is important — and I sure hope nobody contacts me and asks me for the information now, because I don't have it anymore — but I found quite a few studies which talked about the effects on both the dog and the handler on mutual interaction. In some cases the interaction was simply looking at each other. In other cases it was playing together, sometimes it was about playing ball or whatever. And there was just a lovely thread of discussions about how the hormones on both sides of the picture here, for both the dog and the human, the happy hormones went up, the sad hormones went down, and the end result is a more content picture. Like I said, I don't have that anymore, but I'm sure if somebody wants to investigate it they can find that information again. Melissa Breau: It would be interesting to look up some of that stuff and be able to point to some of those studies. I know that you also teach engagement, obviously, so do you mind just talking a little bit about how play, or being able to play with your dog, can impact or influence your engagement training? And maybe just start out with a little bit of explanation on what engagement training is, for those who may not know. Denise Fenzi: The word engagement is a little bit complicated, because when we say "to engage another," we simply mean to mutually interact. When I talk about engagement training, I'm actually talking about a very specific training process which teaches the dog that it's their responsibility to let the handler know, first of all, when they're comfortable, and secondly, that they would like to work. The second part of that involves the dog engaging the handler in play or strong interactive behaviors. So an example of play would be that the dog play-bows at the human and the human responds. An example of just a strong behavior might be that the dog jumps on the person. So there's variations. I teach engagement online, and I find that students who already have developed some repertoire of play with their dog have a much easier time with it because, first of all, it actually occurs to their dog to offer play, because engagement is a shaped process. It crosses the dog's mind that maybe they should ask the owner to play and see what happens next. So that's a huge benefit right there. The handlers who don't have play training or some comfort with play, they struggle. Not only do their dogs not think to offer it, but even if their dog does think to offer it, they don't know what to do next, and so now it sort of stops the process of training engagement and we redirect into the process of training play. And while that's not terrible, I just find that most people came into engagement class to learn engagement, and the ones who came in with play already make a lot more progress on that skill, and the ones who have to stop and redirect simply don't go as far. Now that's no emergency, but for sure having play skills will make your engagement training easier. Melissa Breau: Let's assume that some of the folks listening are convinced… they want to give this a go, they want to focus on trying to play more with their dog. Where should they start? What are some good ways to start play, especially if it hasn't been a big part of life with their dog before now? Denise Fenzi: Well, right off the bat, loud and crazy is probably not the direction you want to go. Generally when people think about play, they think they're going to imitate how dogs play with each other. That's a little unrealistic in terms of a place to start. So unless you're 5 years of age, you are not going to run around the back yard like a crazy person with your dog, and even if you did, your dog would think that was so bizarre and out of character that you would actually be likely to frighten your dog. And then I've noticed that people get a little intense and nervous because that's not the response they were looking for, and that's when they start to sort of, for lack of a better word, assault their dogs. They come up and start — they call it "playfully," but anyway — they start pinching and pulling and doing weird things, and that drives the dog further into avoidance. So Rule Number One: start low key. I find it so much more effective to start with what we would normally call praise rather than play. Pet your dog, scratch their ears, gently and sweet. Now, from there, can you ratchet that up to look something like what happens when you walk in the front door and your dog is glad to see you? So maybe you went from a gentle massaging-type interaction, let's call that a 1 or 2 out of 10, to something a little more "Oh boy, you're home, Mom, I'm so glad to see you." Let's say that's in your 3 to 6 range, depending on your dog. Can you start to get that behavior you get at the front door in your play session when you don't have that context? What do you do at the front door? How do you interact with your dog? Do you clap? Do you pet them? Do you talk to them? And what happens, and…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    E48: Deb Jones - "Motivation and Control" Feb 02, 2018
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Dr. Deborah Jones -- better known around FDSA as Deb Jones -- she is a psychologist who specializes in learning theory and social behavior. An early innovator in the use of clicker training, she has owned and worked with a variety of breeds and has earned top level titles in agility, rally, and obedience over the last 25 years. In 2004 Deb worked with agility trainer and World Team member Judy Keller to develop the FOCUS training system. FOCUS stands for Fun, Obedience & Consistency lead to Unbelievable Success. Deb has also worked with Denise Fenzi, co-authoring the "Dog Sports Skills" book series and authored several other books, with more in the works! At FDSA, Deb offers a wide range of popular classes, including a number of excellent foundations classes. Her focus is on developing training methods that are enjoyable and effective for both the dog and the trainer. Links K9 in Focus (Deb's Site) Next Episode: To be released 2/9/2018, and I'll be talking to Denise Fenzi about Play, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Dr. Deborah Jones -- better known around FDSA as Deb Jones. Deb is a psychologist who specializes in learning theory and social behavior. An early innovator in the use of clicker training, she has owned and worked with a variety of breeds and has earned top-level titles in agility, rally, and obedience over the last 25 years. In 2004, Deb worked with agility trainer and World Team member Judy Keller to develop the FOCUS training system. FOCUS stands for Fun, Obedience & Consistency Lead to Unbelievable Success. Deb has also worked with Denise Fenzi, co-authoring the "Dog Sports Skills" book series, and authored several other books, with more in the works! At FDSA, Deb offers a wide range of popular classes, including a number of excellent foundations classes. Her focus is on developing training methods that are enjoyable and effective for both the dog and the trainer. Hi Deb! Welcome back to the podcast. Deb Jones: Thanks, Melissa. I'm really happy to be here. Melissa Breau: To start us out, do you want to just reacquaint listeners with the furry friends you share your household with? Deb Jones: At the moment, we have four dogs and one cat. We have a wide variety. Smudge is the oldest dog. He's a Blue Merle Sheltie. He's 14 now, and sadly, he's sort of in the hospice stage of life. He's having more and more issues, so that's always a tough thing to deal with. But we're taking it day to day and seeing how he is. Then I have Zen, my red Border Collie, who's 10 years old. Zen still is his wild and crazy self. I don't think that's ever going to change. Star is my black-and-white Border Collie, and she's going to be 7 this year, which is just stunning to me because it seems like she's still just 2 years old. I can't believe they keep getting older. I tell them to stop, and I tell them 7's a perfect age, just stay 7 forever and I'd be thrilled because it's just the right time. Then we have little Tigger, who is the tiny little Sheltie. He is just going to be turning 2 next week, and he only weighs 7 and a half pounds, so he's very, very small for a Sheltie, but he's full of himself. He's got enough attitude for everybody. And finally we have Tricky the cat. I think Trick's about 8 or so now. He's been around for a while. He was the star of the Cat Class that we put on last year. So that's the group for the moment. Melissa Breau: Last time you were on the podcast, I know we talked quite a bit about focus, since that's a big part of what you teach. For anyone who's listening who wants to go back and listen to that, which I recommend, it's Episode 14. But I did have a question or two that we didn't get to last time, so I wanted to dive into that just a little bit. On your syllabus for the Get Focused class, you have a line that says, "What is focus? How is it different from attention?" So I wanted to ask, what is your definition of focus, and how is it different from attention? Deb Jones: OK, I'm glad to talk about that. That's a common question that we get all the time. The way that I think about focus is that it's the ability to concentrate on a task despite distractions. So whatever it is that we're doing, you can keep doing that without being pulled away or pulled in other directions by things going on around you. In the dog training world, attention is often considered to be either the dog's looking at you or making eye contact with you. Focus is a lot more than that. That's a part of it, but it's actually a small part. With focus, my dog might be working on a task totally independently of me, and I don't want them looking at me or making eye contact. You can imagine, for example, pretty much most of agility, nosework, working in obedience at the upper levels in particular, something like go outs — there are lots of times when the dog needs to focus on what they're doing, and then appropriately switch back to trainer focus when it's necessary. So there's a lot more going on there than just "Look at me," because if you just look at me all the time, we're not going to get very far in our training. We start out with that, we start out with "Pay attention to the trainer," because that is really the first step. But it's also, I think, a lot more about persistence at the task, sticking on task once you start doing something, no matter what is going on around you. That's sort of my expanded answer of the difference there. Melissa Breau: A lot of people tend to ask about focus. They're those students that have worked really hard, and they finally managed to achieve good focus from their dogs, and then they're really scared to ruin it. They're working at their desk, or they're watching TV, or who knows, but they're doing something of their own that does not involve the dog, and the dog comes over and offers focus, offers to engage, and wants to work, and they feel like, OK, my choices are ruin my dog's focus and all this work that I put in, or ignore my dog, and they struggle with that a little bit. How do you handle that? What do you recommend in that kind of situation? Deb Jones: That's something that does start to happen, especially if you've done very much focus work. All of a sudden now, too much focus is a problem. But it's really not a problem. We're all happy when we have more focus. We can't say that's a problem. Melissa Breau: It's a good problem. Deb Jones: Yes, it's a very good problem. So if your dog wants to interact with you, I always think that is fabulous. Take it. I always acknowledge it. That doesn't mean I'm going to get up and train you right now, but I am going to respond to you in some way, even if I'm just petting you and saying we're going to do something later. That's still responding to you. I don't jump up every time that you focus on me. In our work, in the system that we have set up and the way we teach focus, we set up expectations for when we want focus and when we don't need it anymore, and we're clear about when those times are. We want focus work for training sessions. When I'm training my dog, I want focus a hundred percent of the time. But when we're lounging around the house, we don't need focus anymore. So we set up the dogs to understand, These are the times, these are the signals I'll give you that focus will be reinforced, and these are the signals that I give you that we are done for now and you can pretty much do whatever you want … well, within reason. You can't get into trouble, but you can pretty much do whatever you want. So we have those on and off cues that we use with them. If I had a dog, though, who was very sensitive, or really hardly ever engaged with me and was very new to this, I would probably leap up from my desk and have a party if they showed me that they wanted to be engaged. So it really very much depends on the dog, as well as the level of training you're at. If I did that now, though, with Zen, I would never do anything else. It would be like a constant 24/7, so with him it's the opposite. It's "We're done for now. We don't need any more focus at the moment." We do actually in focus training, the second exercise we do, we capture focus when it happens, and we acknowledge it with something that's non-food. So we want to get into the fact that my paying attention to you, my interacting with you, playing, praise, petting, all of those things, we will do. And what surprises people is how often then the dog starts focusing on them around the house. So it shows us that they're willing to do it, as long as we're willing to acknowledge it. The other thing I want to mention here, because this is something that also comes up a lot, is people will talk about doing focus work while they're walking their dog, or hiking, and I tell them, "Don't do that." To me, that is totally separate from my focus work. When we're out hiking, or out walking, that's my dog's chance to relax, and to sniff, and to do again whatever they want to do within reason. I'll stop when they stop, I'll move when they move, I don't make a big deal about it. It's for them to relax as much as for me, and that's not a time when I want focus. I may have to give you a cue at some point, I may have to call them back to me, or ask them to lie down or something, as necessary, but we don't ever combine focus work with those informal activities. We keep those totally separate, again so it's clear to the dog: I'm expecting focus from you now; I'm not going to be expecting it from you in these other situations. Melissa Breau: Hearing you say this, it almost sounds like you're essentially putting it on stimulus control. Deb Jones: Exactly. I could have said that and not gone through all these explanations. Yes, that is exactly what we're doing is putting it on stimulus control. Maybe I need to stop being so wordy. Melissa Breau: No, no, I think that was good, because I've taken the class and I hadn't thought of it that way until you described it this time around. That's an interesting way of thinking about it. Now, I know in addition to Get Focused this session, you're teaching a new class, and the topic is kind of fascinating. You called it Achieving a Balance Between Motivation and Control, which I think everybody wants that, right? So can you share a little bit about what the class covers? Deb Jones: Well, I can probably share a lot about what the class covers, because it's on my mind. Whenever we develop a new class, we think about it 24/7. It's on my mind a lot, and I've been thinking about this class for a long time and trying to figure out how to put it into the format that I wanted in order to teach it. When I was thinking back, I realized I was writing lectures for this when we went to camp last year, on the plane to camp, so it's been a while. I've been working on pulling this together, and the thought's been in the back of my mind even longer. This is another what we would call a concept class, meaning the class is not about any particular behavior or skill. It's more like it's built around a theme, and everything we do then kind of supports that theme or helps us explore it or find ways to make changes based on that. Concept classes in general are harder because they require more from the trainer. They require more thought and effort. And they're harder for the instructor for the same reason. They just are a little bit different. A skills class is just, "We're going to work on this thing, like a retrieve, and that's all we're going to work on for six weeks," which is a lot more straightforward. But concept classes tend to be a bit different. I first really started thinking about this idea of balance in dogs back when I was doing a lot of agility. You would see what would happen over time pretty regularly. Somebody would start out, say, with their first agility dog, and often the dog was never gotten with performance in mind. They just stumbled into it. And as they started to do agility, typically what happened was they would say, "Oh, this dog isn't fast enough," "This dog isn't interested," or "This dog isn't very driven" — and I'll talk about drive in a second here — and then they would go, "I need a dog that's going to be better suited for this," which I'm good with that. I think that's a very smart thing to think about: Is the dog I have suited for what I want to do? But then they would get a faster model, oftentimes a model with no brakes, so typically a herding breed. And then they have this little baby puppy herding-breed dog, and they spend about a year building drive in the dog because they're so worried. Since their last dog didn't have a lot of enthusiasm and energy, they're going to get it with this next dog. Of course what happens is this dog already had plenty of motivation, and what you're doing is not building drive in any way at all. What you're doing is building over-arousal. So now you have dogs that are high as kites, and what happens? No control, because the person was afraid to work on control because that was a bad idea with their last dog. We're pretty much always training our last dog, and it's usually very different from what the dog in front of us needs right now. So we end up with these dogs that are highly over-aroused, often around agility, and that's just the first place I saw it. People do it in other sports as well. Let me get back to the term drive, though, because this is one that I very carefully left out of the description of the class. I purposely thought about it and left it out and changed it to motivation. The term motivation, I think, is a better one for what we're talking about. When you're motivated, you want to do something. You have a reason to do it, you have the energy to do it, you have the desire to do it. That's what we think of in dogs when we talk about drive. But scientific terms we never use the term drive. That's just something that's seen as not even a real thing. It doesn't exist. It's a word that can be described better in many other ways, or a quality that can be described better in many other ways. On the other hand, dog trainers use it all the time, so it's not like I can say I will never use that word, because people do understand what you're saying when you talk about drive. Actually, in my first lecture in the class, I talk about … say a little bit about this and why I don't use that term, but I understand that a lot of people do. To me, it's more of a motivation issue than it is a drive issue. That's why I don't use that term a lot. I may lapse into it now and again, if I forget myself. But typically, so let's go back to my example of the totally over-aroused dog. So now what we've got is no control. What that really means is there's no balance. You've got all arousal, no control, or all motivation, no control. That's not a good place to be for the dog or th…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    E47: Chrissi Schranz - "Building Reinforcers & Recall Training" Jan 26, 2018
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Chrissi Schranz is a dog trainer, translator, and chocolate addict. Chrissi is based in Vienna and Lower Austria. She has been fond of dogs of all sizes, shapes, and personalities for as long as she's been able to think, especially the so-called difficult ones. After training the dachshund of her early teenage years in traditional ways at her local obedience club, she learned about clicker training and got hooked on force-free, motivational methods. Her work days are spent doing the things she loves most: thinking about languages, writing, and teaching pet dog manners and life skills to her clients and their dogs. Her German-language puppy book was released last year, and her recall book is scheduled to be released this fall. In addition to all that, in case it wasn't enough, Chrissi loves working with people and dogs, and training, playing, and hiking with her own dogs. Links Click for Joy - Chrissi's blog Next Episode: To be released 2/2/2018, and I'll be talking to Deb Jones about balancing motivation and control through dog training so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Chrissi Schranz, a dog trainer, translator, and chocolate addict. Chrissi is based in Vienna and Lower Austria. She has been fond of dogs of all sizes, shapes, and personalities for as long as she's been able to think, especially the so-called difficult ones. After training the dachshund of her early teenage years in traditional ways at her local obedience club, she learned about clicker training and got hooked on force-free, motivational methods. Her work days are spent doing the things she loves most: thinking about languages, writing, and teaching pet dog manners and life skills to her clients and their dogs. Her German-language puppy book was released last year, and her recall book is scheduled to be released this fall. In addition to all that, in case it wasn't enough, Chrissi loves working with people and dogs, and training, playing, and hiking with her own dogs. Hi Chrissi. Welcome to the podcast. Chrissi Schranz: Hi Melissa. Melissa Breau: To just start us out, can you remind listeners just a little bit about who the dogs are that you share your life with? And I think you have a new addition, don't you? Chrissi Schranz: Yes, I do, so there are four. Fantasy, my oldest, is my greyhound. His main job is to hold down the couch and get all the old dog benefits. And then there's Phoebe, my poodle. She's always happy and cheerful and up for anything. My favorite thing for her is training tricks and taking her on hikes and also taking her to all kinds of places. She can go to restaurants, and she's just good wherever you take her. She just fits in. Then there's Grit, my young Malinois. With her, I've been working on tracking and on obedience foundation. Maybe we'll get our TEAM 1 sometime soon. That would be nice. I also hope that sometime this year we'll do our BH. That's the first trial for obedience sports, for FCI sports. And my new addition, that's Game. She's also a Malinois, almost 6 months old now, and in pretty much all respects she's still a puppy. Lots of puppy brain and puppy behaviors and puppy-ness. Melissa Breau: I can't believe she's already 6 months. It feels like not long ago you brought her home. Let's start by talking about her a little bit. What kinds of foundation stuff have you been working on with her? I know you shared some awesome videos on Facebook, and for our listeners, we're going to put those in the show notes for you guys because Chrissi shared the YouTube links with me. Do you want to just talk about those a little bit? Chrissi Schranz: Yeah. So in general I think you can train skills later in a dog's life, but you really need to put a strong foundation of confidence and relationship on them as early as possible, because the younger they are, the more moldable they still are, and the more open they are to new experiences. So I usually take puppies out into the world, introduce them to people and dogs and places and smells and sounds. It has been really interesting working with Game because she's so different from Grit. Grit is very handler focused and Game is very environmentally focused, also extremely confident and very social too. So when I take her out, I try to not let her directly meet people and dogs because she already thinks people and dogs are awesome, so she doesn't really need more of that. We mainly work on being OK just sharing space with people and dogs without always approaching and playing with everyone. So usually I give her time to acclimate, and then I transition into playing with her, sometimes without any food or any toys, sometimes just food, sometimes toys. I talk about that more in the videos you mentioned. Melissa Breau: I think it was cool to watch some of the stuff and how you handled some of when she got distracted or what happened. It was really interesting to see all that. You've mentioned that Game and Grit are pretty different. Do you want to talk a little more about what you mean by that and how it has influenced your training? Chrissi Schranz: Grit is really handler focused, so it was pretty easy to get her to focus on me in any environment. We didn't really have to work on it. She just offered that, even as a puppy. Game, on the other hand, is super-environmental. She thinks the world is fun, smells are fun, sounds are fun, people are fun. She needs to check it all out. I haven't had an environmental dog since Snoopy, my dachshund, and he was the most difficult dog I've ever trained. He was so independent. So I'm really glad that I know more now than I did then. With Game, I was confident that if I just gave her time to check out the environment, then always would come the moment when she would push me to interact with her. In the beginning, when I took her interesting places, she didn't show a lot of interest in me, and I just accepted that because I don't think it's possible to make yourself more interesting than the environment anyway. I worked on our relationship at home. I could actually see how her interest in playing with me increased every time we went out into the real world. I think in hindsight it really was the best approach I could have taken for her. She'll now happily engage with me soon when we're entering new space, and it's always her choice and not my request, which I really like. I like it to be that way. But I'm pretty sure her environmental interests will come back when she hits adolescence, so this will be very interesting. Melissa Breau: As somebody who has a young dog and is working on foundation stuff, what do you feel is the most important skill — or skills, if you want to dive into more than one — to really focus on or teach a new dog? Chrissi Schranz: I think it really depends on the owner and their goals for themselves and their dog. For me, I really want a strong relationship. I find that more important than anything else. In order to get that, I start with lots of playing and being together, and doing things together that the dog enjoys. I want the dog to know that they can trust me and feel safe with me. Also I want off-leash reliability because I really love hiking. Everything else is secondary to this foundation. Melissa Breau: Part of, I'm guessing, that off-leash reliability is recalls, and since you teach a class on it, and have a book coming out on it, do you want to just tell us a little bit about the book, when it will be out, where it will be available? Chrissi Schranz: Yes. The book is in German, unfortunately, so I'm afraid many of you won't be able to read it, but it will be out this fall. The publisher is Kynos, and it should be available on Amazon. It's a workbook, so it has lots of free space to take notes, and tables and checklists that the reader can fill in. I want it to be a fun book that you can take places, and it will give you a clear training plan on one hand, and it helps you keep track of your progress on the other hand. Melissa Breau: Your syllabus, to shift gears and talk about your class a little bit, mentions establishing a radius. You mentioned earlier off-leash reliability. I think that's maybe not something I've thought about before with recall training, the idea of establishing a space. What do you mean by that? Can you talk us through it a little bit? Chrissi Schranz: When you walk your dog off leash, you probably don't want him to run more than maybe 40 feet away from you, so that's the radius you want him to keep. With radius training we teach an awareness of this distance where the dogs learn that fun things happen 40 feet from us and closer to us. There's various elements to this. One of them is that we play all kinds of games within that radius. Another one is that we change directions when they step out of the radius. So basically the way they were just headed sniffing, that ends if they go further away than the radius we want them to have. Melissa Breau: You also mentioned the idea of auto check-ins. Do you want to talk a little bit about what those are and how they help with recall training? Chrissi Schranz: That's one of those things that I want to happen within the radius. When I casually walk my dog and she looks at me unprompted, that's an auto check-in. The more often you capture that — for example, with a click — the more often it will happen. It's part of what I call shifting the responsibility to the dog, because I want the dog to think it's her job to make sure not to lose her off-leash human and not the other way around. It's more relaxing for the human if the dog makes sure not to lose you than if you constantly have to make sure not to lose your dog. Melissa Breau: Right. I think a lot of people probably would love it if they could trust their dog not to lose them. One of the common analogies out there that people talk about when they talk about recall training is the concept of this piggy bank. You've got to put a lot of money in before you can make a withdrawal out. I have no idea where that concept or that analogy came from, but I was hoping you could explain a little bit about how that works and what that concept means. Chrissi Schranz: I don't know where it comes from either, but I also like the image. For me, it means that I always try to follow a recall up with good things. If you keep calling your dog and then ending the off-leash fun, she'll learn that she better shouldn't come. So every time I call and then pay her well or let her run off again, I put money in the piggy bank, and every time I call and put her on a leash or end the play date, I'm making a withdrawal. I feel that you want to have as little withdrawals as possible. Melissa Breau: Part, I think, of what most people struggle with, they can get the recall in the house, they can get the recall maybe in the yard when there's a low level of distraction, and maybe they get it 100 percent of the time awesome. So the first time they face something hard to recall their dog off of, they're shocked, amazed, terrified, horrified, whatever word you want to choose, when the dog doesn't come. The problem there is they struggle with generally adding distractions in training and actually thoroughly proofing the behavior. Since recalls are often most important when distractions are their highest, proofing is perhaps even more important with this particular skill than with most of the things we teach. So I wanted to ask you a little bit about how listeners can do it the right way. Chrissi Schranz: I think you already touched on the most important part: proofing. Many people just forget about that part when it comes to real-life behaviors. They remember to proof sports behaviors and competition behaviors, but somehow just expect the recall to work in real life after training it in the house or in the training building. But of course it doesn't because it's a very different environment. There are always sudden distractions. So ideally you think of it just as you think of any other behavior. You train it in an easy environment first — for example, your house, or a training building, or your yard — and then you don't just skip a few steps and ask your dog to recall off a dear; you gradually build to this environment, and gradually introduce distractions. For example, you can work with a low-value food distraction in your own house, and then a slightly higher-value food distraction, and so on. Melissa Breau: Kind of building complexity at home before you take it out. Chrissi Schranz: Yes, exactly. Melissa Breau: Is it realistic to believe that every dog can have a strong recall cue, or are there some dogs that simply are always going to struggle with it? Chrissi Schranz: I think some dogs will always struggle, and I'm sure some people disagree, but while training is important, it's only part of the picture. There's breed tendencies and individual temperaments, and those are also really important factors. For example, a dog who's genetically wired to work independently of humans, and a dog who has a strong prey drive, that's a dog that will be much harder to train when it comes to a recall for off-leash hiking, for example, than a handler-focused dog with a high will to please and no prey drive whatsoever. Melissa Breau: Right. What do you do with those dogs that maybe don't have a lot of built-in interest for reinforcers? How do you handle that? Chrissi Schranz: That's a great question. I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and I'm actually developing a class on building reinforcers. I think we usually assume that a reinforcer is a thing that the dog wants, and that we just need to have the thing and give it to the dog, and we can reward the behavior anywhere, anytime. But very often it just doesn't work that way. For example, some dogs only take treats at home, or they're only interested in toys in certain contexts. For example, you can't reward a recall with something the dog doesn't want when he's out. It doesn't matter how much he likes that same thing at home. So I think it's really useful if we try to see reinforcers as behaviors rather than things. So instead of food, we have the act of eating, and instead of a tennis ball, we have the act of playing fetch, and so on. If you think of a reinforcer as a behavior, all of a sudden it's pretty clear that reinforcers can be trained and generalized just like any other behavior. We actually shouldn't expect them to work anywhere and everywhere without building them and generalizing them and working on them. Melissa Breau: Since you're working on a class on that concept, any thoughts when we might see it on the schedule, or anything else you want to get into about what it's going to cover? Chrissi Schranz: I'm not sure, but it will probably be on the schedule in June, and we'll go into all kinds of reinforcers, including the ones we don't typically think of. For example, there'll be lectures and games about environmental rewards, like chasing squirrels or chasing birds, and we'll talk about things that are genetically reinforcing, like, for example, herding might be for a Border Collie. Melissa Breau: Well, thank you so much, Chrissi, for coming back on the podcast. I really appreciate it. And thank you to all of ou…

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    E46: Lori Stevens - "Having fun with Canine Fitness" Jan 19, 2018
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Lori Stevens is an animal behavior consultant, a professional dog trainer, a canine fitness trainer, an animal massage practitioner, and a senior Tellington TTouch® Training practitioner. She continually studies how animal behavior, movement, learning, fitness, and health all interact. She uses intimidation-free, scientific, and innovative methods, in an educational environment, to improve the health, behavior, performance, and fitness of animals. Lori gives workshops worldwide and has a private practice in Seattle, WA. She is also the creator of the Balance Harness. Lori's most recent of three DVDs by Tawser Dog Videos is co-presented with Kathy Sdao and called The Gift of a Gray Muzzle: Active Care for Senior Dogs. It focuses on improving the life of senior dogs. She teaches the popular FDSA course Helping Dogs Thrive: Aging Dogs, and will be introducing a new course this session called Helping Dogs Thrive: Fitness in Five. Links www.seattlettouch.com Next Episode: To be released 1/26/2018, and I'll be talking to Chrissi Schranz about building reinforcers and recall training, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Lori Stevens. Lori is an animal behavior consultant, a professional dog trainer, a canine fitness trainer, an animal massage practitioner, and a senior Tellington TTouch® Training practitioner. She continually studies how animal behavior, movement, learning, fitness, and health all interact. She uses intimidation-free, scientific, and innovative methods, in an educational environment, to improve the health, behavior, performance, and fitness of animals. Lori gives workshops worldwide and has a private practice in Seattle, WA. She is also the creator of the Balance Harness. Lori's most recent of three DVDs by Tawser Dog Videos is co-presented with Kathy Sdao and called The Gift of a Gray Muzzle: Active Care for Senior Dogs. It focuses on improving the life of senior dogs. She teaches the popular FDSA course Helping Dogs Thrive: Aging Dogs, and will be introducing a new course this session called Helping Dogs Thrive: Fitness in Five. Hi Lori, welcome back to the podcast. Lori Stevens: Hello Melissa. Thanks for having me back. Melissa Breau: I am very excited to talk to you again today. To start us out and remind listeners who you are, do you want to recap who the animals are that you share your life with? Lori Stevens: Sure. Since you made that plural, I'll add in my husband because humans are animals. Melissa Breau: Fair enough! Lori Stevens: Anyway, I live with my husband, Lee, and I live with my 12-and-a-half-year-old Aussie girl, Cassie. You know, I used to teach about aging dogs without actually having one, and now I have one. So after several years of teaching basically senior dogs how to have a better life, now I have one and I'm putting it to work. So it's nice to have a 12-and-a-half-year-old who's excited about doing fitness, and going to the park, and the beach, and trail outings, and all sorts of good things. Melissa Breau: You shared pictures. She's clearly in great shape. She looks awesome. Lori Stevens: Yeah, she's doing well. Melissa Breau: Good. I know from last time we talked that you're an advocate for canine fitness — probably not surprising based on what you do. But can you share a little about why it's important, especially for sports dogs? Lori Stevens: I'll start with sports. I have personal experience with seeing athletes go to the next level, and I think it's the cross-training, because they'll come in and basically say something like, "My dog keeps hitting bars. I think we need to improve something." When we start doing some cross-training, or strengthening the core, or strengthening the legs that are involved in a jump, all those things, we see improvement in performance —surprise, surprise. I think a lot of time in sports the training is going to classes, practicing the sports, but sometimes you need to do one more level of fitness to get that extra little bit. There are so many benefits in canine fitness, things like strengthens muscles is obvious, but it really strengthens and helps the dog know when and how to engage their core muscles. That would happen automatically. It's not like they think, OK, it's time to engage my core muscles, but we do exercises where we start engaging them a lot and then it becomes more natural. You build better joint support through stronger muscles, improving flexibility, improve alignment and posture, balance and stability improve. And with that, what you get is fewer injuries, you get more confidence, you get more body awareness. And so dogs, when they're faced with a quick decision or a quick body move, they're more prepared and more confident to make that move, and stronger in that movement than they might be if they were just doing the regular training as a sport. It improves gait, movement, I just think it's fantastic. But another part of it, which I think we often leave out, is that it's a behavior changer. I have worked with fearful dogs that that was the way that I broke through to them. That confidence they get with suddenly doing things with their body that they've never done before, like hind leg targeting, I think that's a huge, huge exercise for dogs' awareness of where their back end is, their confidence. It seems to be a game changer, really, in terms of behavior, I have found. It's all the stuff you would naturally think of with fitness, but it also does a lot in terms of confidence, body awareness, and building trust even. I mean really being able to build trust, or doing something joyful that doesn't have the pressure of competition in it. Melissa Breau: I think that, for a lot of people, when they talk about fitness, they think about their own experiences. I don't know about you, but for me at least, the gym is not my favorite place to be. How does that compare to how dogs generally feel about fitness and what's the difference there? Lori Stevens: I hate the gym. Can I just say that? Really hate the gym. Melissa Breau: Absolutely. Lori Stevens: I have a personal trainer now. I love my trainer. And so maybe that's more like working with your dog. What pops to mind when I think of going to the gym is a sweaty place that doesn't smell great and has a lot of grunting. Canine fitness, what pops to mind when I think about it, is joy, joy, joy. That's what my canine gym is, my canine gym room. Doing fitness together is just a blast. I have to say that every dog I've ever worked with loves it, and that's why it's my sport. It's my sport, I'm calling it my sport because I don't have another sport, but to me, it really is. It's truly a fun activity and it's all about the joy. So they aren't really comparable, those two things. Melissa Breau: Fair enough, and I guess if someone was sitting there feeding us cookies for everything we did at the gym, we might enjoy it a little more too. Lori Stevens: Yeah, true. Melissa Breau: I think the other place that our concepts about our own fitness struggles sometimes hold us back is with the expectations around how much time we have to put into it. Most people probably think about spending an hour — or more, maybe — at the gym each time they go. Based on the upcoming course name, I'm going to guess that canine fitness differs there too. So how much time should people really be spending on canine fitness? Lori Stevens: You know that five is five hours. No, I'm just kidding. It's five minutes. You know, that goes for people too. When you're out walking your dog, and you're out in the woods, or on a trail, or in the park, it's OK if it takes an hour. But when you're in your house with your dog and you want to do some focused exercises, you want to stop and do a little training, so you might as well do a little fitness, five minutes is plenty. I do believe in warming up and cooling down, and the five minutes is the strengthening part, but if you wanted to turn that into two minutes of strengthening and a couple of minutes of warm-up, and a short cool down, that's fine too. I actually think, with people, they don't need to do an hour workout either. If I stop and do five to ten minutes of working out, that's better than if I don't do any at all, so the time thing, I think, often gets in the way. I also think we can over-train our dogs. I have a 12-and-a-half-year-old, and I set a timer. I set it for five minutes of training. If she's cold, like if she's been sleeping for a few hours, then I wake her up, I set my timer for five minutes, and we do five minutes of warm-up. Then I set it again, we do five minutes of strengthening, and then we do a few minutes of cool down, usually another five on the cool down. So I just set my timer. I think I got that idea of five, five, and five from Leslie Eide, a rehabilitation vet in our area. She also teaches fitness work. I think she's done some for Fenzi. I think the thing is that it's important to warm up a bit and cool down a bit, but you really don't have to spend that much time doing it. So all of the workouts that people are going to develop in my class are going to be five-minute workouts. We don't have to overthink this, you know. We can be creative. We just don't want to work the same muscles every day to fatigue. So we just want to be careful on that side of things. Melissa Breau: How much do fitness behaviors — maybe including or maybe not including warm-up and cool down stuff; I'll leave that up to you — but how much do those skills or those behaviors differ from other skills and behaviors that we teach our dog for sport or just for daily life? Lori Stevens: It's all behavior. How does it differ? I think the way it differs is that we need to be safe. So we need to pay attention to alignment, we need to start on the ground, and what I mean by that is we really need to build a foundation, just like with any sport. You're not going to get past the foundation stuff. You don't put your dog directly on a peanut and start doing things. One of my goals in teaching fitness is to really teach people how to be wonderful, incredibly sharp-eyed observers, and teach them what to look for when they're doing fitness, and how to start on the ground and build up. All these exercises that we do as foundation exercises, they're all going to get harder because we're going to be doing them on the ground first, on a stable platform, then an unstable platform, unstable equipment. Training fitness is not training for a competitive sport, so the pressure isn't the same, but you still have to have a good foundation for it. Just like with agility, you don't go in and start running courses. You teach the dog how to get on the equipment, how to exit the equipment, how to use the equipment safely. This is all a good thing, in my view, and that's why I can call it my sport, because there are a bunch of nuances. But it's also a very joyful thing to do. Not to say that sports isn't joyful. Most people do it because it's a blast. But precision is important in fitness training, just like it's important in competitive sports. It's just different in the sense that it's something you can do year-round. You might change your focus based on what you see in your dog, and all of it is about teaching behaviors, so the better you are at training and timing, the better your fitness work will look. Melissa Breau: You mentioned in there the idea of equipment. Do people need special equipment to do canine fitness? Lori Stevens: I think people like an excuse to buy equipment. Melissa Breau: Fair enough. Lori Stevens: I really do. I think it's funny, I do think they like that. But let's just say they can't afford it or they don't like it. There's a lot of things you can build. You can use things around the house. Do you have to have fancy cones? No, you can use potted plants. Do you have to have a fancy Cavalletti set with cones with poles through it? No, you can use your mops and brooms and put them on cans and use painter's tape. Do you have to buy fancy platforms or an aerobic platform? No, you can use books and bind them with duct tape and put anti-slip material around them. You can use air mattresses and pillows for unstable equipment. I'm betting most people will want to buy a piece of equipment or two, but you don't have to. Let me just add that the outdoors, when you go for a walk in the park, it is full of exercise equipment. I'm going to give you yesterday's example. We haven't gone for our walk today yet. Yesterday's example was we went to the park and Cassie wanted to jump on every park bench. She sees the bench and she starts targeting for the bench, and she wants to go on every single bench. She can put her front legs up to work her hind legs, or she can push up all the way to do a little jump. Then we do uphill sprints because I'm in Seattle, so there's a lot of hills. We do uphill recalls and she sprints up the hill. We hind leg target curbs on our way to the park, and we were walking across a bridge, and I noticed there was this little shelf, a little curb-like thing that you could step up on. So we did ipsilateral work — I'd better say what that is — we did targeting with same-side legs on the little raised part of the bridge, and we turned around, did the other side, and I took a photo of it. We do that in the class, ipsilateral work. We ended with nosework in the park, followed by walking up a very steep hill. And I did a workout with her that day, too. But this was a really good workout just utilizing, there's often a big rock she likes to jump up on, and there's all sorts of logs that are a little slippery right now because it rains here nonstop for ages. There's exercise equipment everywhere. Maybe I should do a class someday on just outdoor equipment. Melissa Breau: That would certainly be cool. It would be interesting. Lori Stevens: Yeah. Melissa Breau: For those people who are interested in buying a couple of pieces of equipment, are there specific pieces you usually recommend for getting started, or good places to get their feet wet? Lori Stevens: First a caveat: You're talking to someone who has a ridiculous amount of equipment, so maybe I shouldn't really be allowed to answer this question. Older dogs do really well with a balance pad, and you don't have to buy it. You can get a balance pad on Amazon for people and it's not very expensive. You can do a lot of things with a balance pad. I like for people to have a Fitbone or two, or a couple of 14-inch discs. Those pieces of equipment, either one, a Fitbone or a 14-inch disc, or two Fitbones or two 14-inch discs, you can do a lot with those. Platforms are super-useful. Where do you buy a platform, right? A lot of people have been making platforms recently, so there's a lot of how-to's on that. But you asked me about buying. An aerobic step bench is actually a useful platform. Michelle Pouliot has a place that she links to that builds platforms according to her specifications, so I've got a couple of those. And then Paw Pods. They're inexpensive and they're a blast. You just have to make sure you get the ones that are nice and soft, so I get the FitPAWS ones. They're really fu…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    E45: Stacy Barnett - "Optimal Arousal for Performance" Jan 12, 2018
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Stacey Barnett is an active competitor in Nosework, Tracking, Obedience, Rally, Agility and Barn Hunt, and the host of the Scentsabilities podcast -- but Scent Sports are her primary focus and her first love. Links www.scentsabilitiesnw.com Next Episode: To be released 1/19/2018, and I'll be talking to Lori Stevens about how you can help your dog reach optimum fitness in about five minutes, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Stacy Barnett. Stacy is an active competitor in Nosework, Tracking, Obedience, Rally, Agility, and Barn Hunt, and the host of the Scentsabilities podcast — but Scent Sports are her primary focus and her first love. Hi Stacy, welcome back to the podcast. Stacy Barnett: Hi Melissa. How are you? Melissa Breau: I'm doing well. So this is our third take, thanks to technology. So hopefully this time we have good sound and everybody does well. To start us out, Stacy, do you want to tell us just a little bit and remind listeners who your dogs are? I know since last time we talked you have a new addition, so maybe you could share a little bit about that. Stacy Barnett: I do, I do. I love talking about her anyway, so that's really great. I have four dogs now, so I'm getting closer to the "crazy dog lady" status. I don't think I'm there yet, but a little closer. I have four dogs. My oldest dog is a 10-year-old Standard Poodle named Joey, and Joey is competing in the NW3 level right now in nosework. I have a 6-year-old miniature American Shepherd, or mini Aussie, and he is at the end of E2 level. Then I have two Labradors now, so my main competition dog that I've done most of my competition with out of these dogs is Judd. Judd is — I can't believe it — he's 8 years old now. Time flies. He's an 8-year-old Labrador Retriever, and he's a dog that's my elite dog that I competed at the 2017 NACSW National Invitational this year. He's really the one that brought me into nosework in a big way. Then I have a brand new addition. I have a — she's going to be 9 months old, believe it not, this next week — and she is a Labrador Retriever from working lines. I'm very proud of her breeding and her breeder because they produce professional dogs for the professional sector, like FEMA dogs, cadaver dogs, that kind of thing. So she's bred for detection. She's definitely living up to her breeding, which is really exciting. But she's a really super dog, I absolutely love her, a little peanut, she's only about 35 pounds right now, but she may be small, but she's mighty. Melissa Breau: I know that you mentioned on Facebook a little bit, and some other places, that Brava's been a little bit of a change from some of your other dogs. She's a little different. Do you want to share a little bit about that? Stacy Barnett: Sure, sure. Brava is, she actually thinks her name is Bravado. That's her attitude. Her nickname is actually Big Bad. She's really a piece of work, but I absolutely adore her. She is what people would typically refer to as a high drive dog, but she's also a high arousal dog. With my other dogs, I can get them into drive, but they are not what I would call high arousal dogs. I would say that they're either low arousal or moderate arousal. But with her, she's a high arousal, so it's totally on a different side of the Yerkes-Dodson arousal curve. Melissa Breau: I want to talk a little more about that. Do you want to explain what the curve is and how it works, and what you mean by saying she's on one side and they're on the other? Stacy Barnett: Yeah, yeah, absolutely. I'm actually really interested in Yerkes-Dodson Law because I find that it is the number one success criteria. Like, if you want to be successful in nosework, and probably a lot of other sports, but the number one key to success is managing this curve. So this is a really important concept. Basically, with the Yerkes-Dodson Law — and it's a law, by the way — it's not something you can break. Picture a curve that looks like a bell curve. It's actually a normal distribution curve, but it looks like a bell curve. As your arousal increases, your performance increases. So as the dog — or whatever we're talking about, but we're talking about dogs right now — as the dog's arousal continues to increase and increase and increase, the dog's performance also goes up until it gets to a point at the peak of the curve. And at the peak of the curve, this is the point at which I consider the dog to be in drive, and that's at the point where you're going to get the highest amount of performance, the highest degree of performance, out of the dog. But now what happens is, as the dog continues to increase its arousal — so your high arousal dogs tend to live on that side, on the right side, of the curve — so as they continue to increase that arousal, their performance actually decreases. So as the dog is more and more aroused, the performance gets worse and worse and worse, and it gets to the point where it becomes beyond arousal. It's actually the high anxiety, and it's that anxiety that is kind of like there's a point of no return at that point, where the dog's totally out to lunch. That's basically the curve, and like I said, it's a law, so to be successful, you can ride the curve a little bit. So trying to figure out, you want to take a look at what your dog is giving you, where their emotional state is, and then modify that emotional state so that you can try to get the dog back to the peak. When you get the dog back to the peak, the dog's in drive and you're going to have the best performance. Melissa Breau: To talk about that just a little bit more, what does it look like when the dog is on that right side of the curve and getting to the point where they're so over-aroused that it's impacting their performance? Maybe what are some of the things people can do to bring that back down? Stacy Barnett: OK. Let's talk about the right side. The right side is — this is the part of the curve that Brava is really highlighting to me. I have to say, though, she's just to the right, like, she's able to focus, which is really nice. With a dog who is high arousal, you're going to see a number of different things. You can see … let's say the dog is waiting. Waiting is really hard on these dogs. They tend to sometimes … they might be barking. So if you see a dog and they're obviously very agitated, and they want their turn, they want to go now, they want to go now, they want to go now, they want to go now, those dogs that are barking, they're in high arousal state. Or if the dog is pulling you to the start line. Or they're coming off of the start line and they're exploding into the search area. These are indications that your dog's arousal is too high. It's basically picture a 3-year-old child on a sugar high. That is high arousal, right? They can't focus. Melissa Breau: Sort of the way people think of a dog who stresses up. Stacy Barnett: Yes, yes. And actually there is a direct relationship, like, if you think about stressing up. I actually like to think about this in terms of real arousal and perceived arousal. We perceive high arousal dogs that stress up to be high arousal dogs because it's very obvious to us. So the real arousal equals perceived arousal. Interestingly, there's also another kind of stress that we see that doesn't look like high arousal, but it really is, and that is when the dog stresses down. So the dog is still stressed, the dog still has high anxiety, and it's still on the right-hand side of the curve, but you see these dogs and they're shut down, and it's very easy to misinterpret this, to think that the dog needs to be lifted up in its arousal state. So sometimes you see people try to jolly the dog, or "Hey, let's go, let's go, let's go," maybe some toy play, and all they're doing is actually increasing the arousal even more, they're increasing the dog's arousal even more, and the dog actually can't get out of that anxiety state. That's where the perceived arousal is very different than the real arousal. Melissa Breau: You started to touch on it there, the other side of that curve, the left side of that curve. By contrast, what does that look like, or how does that work, and what should people be looking at? Stacy Barnett: The left-hand side of the curve is our lower arousal. If a dog is really low arousal, he's basically asleep. So you have the really low arousal that might be a little … very laid back, very like, "Hey, I'm here," they might be a little bored, they might seem bored, they might be a little slow, they might be a little over-methodical, they might be unmethodical. Those are the dogs where you just want them to give you a little bit more. Those are the dogs around the lower side, and as long as they're not too low on the arousal curve, it's actually pretty easy to get them up the curve. I actually find that the ideal state is slightly to the left as a natural state, because a dog has a natural arousal state, and then they have the state that they're currently in. So if their natural arousal state is slightly to the left, just the fact that being at a trial will actually put them at the top of the curve. I'm actually very lucky Judd's one of those. He's slightly to the left as his natural arousal state. I take him to a trial, he loves trialing, it puts him right at the peak arousal, and he's in drive. Melissa Breau: We all want that dog, right? Stacy Barnett: Yeah, right. Everybody wants Judd. Everybody loves Judd. Melissa Breau: We talked before this and we talked a little bit about this just kind of outside of this context, but I know another big thing for you is really adapting your handling and training to the dog you have, and not just in terms of arousal levels. You also talk about the importance of adapting your training and handling based on how secure your dog is, or how confident they are, and whether they're more handler focused or more environmentally focused. I wanted to ask you a little bit about that. Can you share what some of that looks like and how people can adapt accordingly? Stacy Barnett: Absolutely, absolutely, and I just want to give a little bit of a plug for Denise's book Train the Dog in Front of You. Now, again, this is focusing on nosework, but I think every competitor, if you do dog sports, buy the book. And no, she's not giving me any kickback on that — I just wanted to let you know! Basically because the most important thing that you can do from a dog training perspective is to know what kind of dog are you dealing with. I don't mean are you dealing with a Border Collie, a Labrador, or a Shih Tzu. It's the dog, the personality type, the very specific what makes your dog tick. What's really cool is Denise has actually broken down the dog's personality into dimensions, and these dimensions, if you can understand where your dog falls, it can give you insight into what's the best way to train your dog, which is really cool. For instance, what I like to focus on specifically, especially for all our nosework stuff, is there's two particular dimensions that I think are really important. One of them is, is your dog secure or is your dog cautious. The dog who is secure, that's ideal. We want that secure dog. The dog who's cautious might be a little bit more timid. Actually Judd, as an example, is a cautious dog. So you have a cautious dog, but then you compare that to Brava, who is very secure. You see the difference in their searching style. I did a search just the other day in my back room, and there was a tight space. Brava was really pushing into that tight space, where Judd was like, "Ooh, I don't know, it kind of makes me nervous." So you have secure versus cautious. Then you have another dimension, which is also really important, which is either handler focused or environmentally focused. Along with other sports, we do like to have the dog fairly handler focused. However, in scent sports specifically, we need to have a dog that's a little bit more on the environmental side, but not so environmental that they're prioritizing their environment over target odor or over working with us as a team, because again, this is actually a team sport with you and your dog, and you have to work together as a partnership. So ideally you actually have a dog who is somewhere in-between handler focused and environmentally focused. But if you can understand which side your dog is, that can give you insight into how to train your dog. Melissa Breau: So what it seems to me is like what you're talking about really is balance, this idea that you want to hit this perfect in-between on a couple of things, right? Working to balance out our dog's natural tendencies, whatever they may be. So I wanted to ask about one more skill where balance is important. How do you achieve that right balance that you're talking about in teamwork, between teamwork and independence, especially during a search? Stacy Barnett: There are some handling things that you can do. For instance, one of these things, I actually call it proximity of influence — it's just a term that I coined — that the closer you are to your dog, the more influence you're going to exert on your dog. There's actually a sweet spot, and every dog is slightly different in terms of where their sweet spot is. You don't want to be so close to your dog that you're influencing your dog too much, because at that point you're providing a little bit too much input into the search, and let's face it, we don't have a nose. I mean, we have a nose, but it doesn't work very well. But you also don't want to be so far away that you're not a partner with your dog. So by understanding a little bit about is your dog environmentally or handler focused, it can tell you how sensitive they're going to be to your proximity. I know, for instance, with Judd, Judd is actually quite independent. He's pretty … from an environmentally focused perspective, he's more on the environmental side versus handler focused, and he will actually tolerate a lot of handler interference because he just tells me to get in the back seat anyway. Whereas if you have a dog like Joey, my Standard Poodle, who is actually very handler focused, he's very open to suggestions. I actually did a search this morning where I had a hide, and it was in the proximity of an area where there's probably a little bit of residual odor from a few days ago. Joey paused for a second and he looked at me. I made the mistake of saying, "Joey, go search," because as soon as I did that, I actually prompted him, especially because of my proximity and where I was, it in effect prompted him to alert on residual odor, because he was like, "Oh, OK, you think this is where the hide is absolutely. I think it is too," so he alerted. These are the types of things that had I been a little further away from him, or not talked to him, I think he would not have alerted there. So this is just an example, and the really cool thing is I got it on video. I love video so I can share it with people. I…

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    E44: Amy Cook - "Think, Plan, Do: Planning Your Training" Jan 05, 2018
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Dr. Amy Cook has been training dogs for nearly 25 years and has been specializing in the rehabilitation of shy and fearful dogs for over 15 years. She's the creator of The Play Way, her process for helping dogs learn to cope with the world around them. She's also a certified dog behavior consultant, a long-standing professional member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers, and has attended all four Chicken Camps in Hot Springs, Arkansas, taught by Bob Bailey. Amy returned to school in 2006 to get her PhD in psychology from UC Berkeley. Her research there focused on the dog/human relationship and its effect on problem-solving strategies dogs employ. She's also recently started a blog at playwaydogs.com, and everyone should definitely go check it out. Links Amy's Website Next Episode: To be released 1/12/2018, and I'll be talking to Stacy Barnett about nosework handling, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Dr. Amy Cook. Amy has been training dogs for nearly 25 years and has been specializing in the rehabilitation of shy and fearful dogs for over 15 years. She's the creator of The Play Way, her process for helping dogs learn to cope with the world around them. She's also a certified dog behavior consultant, a long-standing professional member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers, and has attended all four Chicken Camps in Hot Springs, Arkansas, taught by Bob Bailey. Amy returned to school in 2006 to get her PhD in psychology from UC Berkeley. Her research there focused on the dog/human relationship and its effect on problem-solving strategies dogs employ. She's also recently started a blog at playwaydogs.com, and everyone should definitely go check it out. Hi, Amy. Welcome back to the podcast. Amy Cook: Hi. So good to be here, second time around, love it favorite thing to do, talk with you. Melissa Breau: To start us out, do you want to remind listeners who the dogs are that you share your life with? Amy Cook: My dogs, of course. Can I use the whole 45 minutes? I could do that just on my dogs. Marzipan, first off, my darling Whippet. She's 6 now, which I cannot believe. She's my lovely girl. She's on a break right now from agility. She got majorly injured a year ago, a year and a half ago, and so it was a long recovery that we just very recently got a clean bill of health on, which I'm really excited about. So now it's all about reconditioning her body and getting her brain back in the game. As an aside that isn't really an aside, I don't think I really appreciated the psychological effects of what you have to do to really isolate a dog from using their body correctly, and what that does to their minds. Because I think in a lot of ways she's forgotten how much she can push me into work and forgotten how she can have free agency and try to get things done, because so much time was spent asking her to settle down and not do anything. So rehabilitating her psychologically has been part of this. So that's where she is. And then Caper, my darling Chihuahua something-something, my Ikea assembly dog who seems to have come with no bones. If you follow me on Facebook, you'll see lots of pictures of her being made out of rubber. Both of them do agility, and I'm fooling around on my down time on playing with TEAM stuff. I think if the two of them were one dog we're good on TEAM 1 and 2, but they're two dogs, so that doesn't work, so I'm filling in the holes as I go. They're a blast, so everyone follow them on Facebook. They're so much fun. Melissa Breau: I have to agree with that. I definitely look at their pictures, cute puppy pix. I know that you're probably most known at FDSA for something that I mentioned in the intro, your reactive dog classes that use your play-based approach to treating reactivity. But I want to focus on your Science of Training class today because I know it's coming up. So to start us out, do you want to share a basic summary of what the class covers and what it's all about? Amy Cook: Yeah, sure. I love this class. This one is so fun to teach. It was first conceived of in concert with Denise's The Art of Training class. We wanted to throw in The Science of Training to get people all on the same page about what the fundamentals are, but also how to get these mechanics in your body, how to get these details really solid before you go ahead and deviate from them and experiment and try to do different things that are outside of those experiences. What my class is really focusing on is tightening trainer technique and finding these little areas that I think we don't spend the time on, that we neglect, either because we're not sure if they're important, or we're maybe not so good at them, and we practice the things we're good at a lot. So I want to make sure we get right down to them and really understand them. The class assumes that people have a very basic understanding about operant conditioning. You don't need to be able to do it chapter and verse. I'd assume some experience shaping with a clicker, but that's about it. I found that as I was growing as a clicker trainer, there were all sorts of little holes I'd find, little areas where I thought maybe models conflicted, or didn't really match, or how do I get this done when I've heard of this. I would always keep little notes about that, I think maybe waiting for some future audience when I could finally pass that information along. So that's what this class has become for me. It's my baby in that way. I aim to be practical and so much of the scientific approach to training dogs gets lost and gets intellectual, and I want us to get down to be clear with your body, be clear with your clicker, be really clear with your parameters and what you're doing, because that ultimately serves your learner. And there's no better place to learn that than Chicken Camp and trying to learn how to train chickens. It's really humbling to train a bird, very much. Melissa Breau: That leads us nicely into the second thing I wanted to ask you about, because I happen to know part of the answer. I wanted to talk about the name of the class, and the second half of that name is Think, Plan, Do. I wanted you to maybe share where that came from and a little bit about what it means. Amy Cook: You can Google "Think, Plan, Do," and you'll see that it's just a phrase that a lot of people use in a lot of different industries and domains. It's an organizational psychology phrase, a motivation phrase, but to us, to dog trainers, that phrase is highly connected to Bob Bailey. That is a Bailey-ism, and it's what I feel, at least for me, what I really took as one of the main takeaways from going to Chicken Camp that is often missing in dog training, we don't spend a whole lot of time thinking. We don't spend a whole lot of time making our plans. We spend our time doing. We pick up the clicker, we get the treats, and we just start training. And with a nod thrown at what we're training this time, of course, but really when you train chickens, you spend a lot of time making a plan and thinking it through before you ever bring that bird out on the table and try to train something. And so, as an homage to the great Bob Bailey, I think the place to start to improve yourself in training is to think something through, to really have a plan — even if it's a plan that doesn't work, you'll find out — make a plan before you do anything. Don't have just a loose goal, because that's not going to be optimal to your learner. Your learner is at your mercy. They're just there to receive all the things you're about to do, and the better you are at doing them, and the more concrete your plan, the better the experience is for your learner, which is ultimately one of our highest goals, and I think it should be. Melissa Breau: To maybe dive a little more into that, what kind of things should people be thinking about before they begin to plan out a specific training session? What kind of factors or what kind of things should they take into consideration and think through? Amy Cook: Well, going in order, first spend time thinking. What specifically are you trying to do in this session? What are you trying to do with your dog in general? But today you're thinking, I have my 10 minutes, I'd like to do something. What specifically? Not I need to improve the retrieve we're working on. What specifically? Really have that in mind. And is it realistic for you today? You can have a long goal, but the small part you're going to work on right now needs an entry point, and that needs to be thought through. Also, as you're picturing that, what don't you want in this picture? Let's say … oh, I know something we all don't want. How about barking? Melissa Breau: Whining, barking. Amy Cook: There's all sorts of things you can write a list about. Think ahead of time about all the stuff you're not going to want, because if you see some of it, you don't want to be thinking, Oh I don't know what to do with that, or Oh, I think I'll ignore that, or I don't know what to do with that; I'll go past it. Maybe going past it is going to be the right thing to do. It really depends on too many factors for this answer. But you shouldn't be caught going, Oh, oh, I don't know what, oh shoot, what is he doing now? You should think ahead: If he barks, this is what I'll do. If I start to get whining, I'm going to stop. Think it out about what this training is going to be like, so that you're not stopping. You can concentrate. You have a plan. Even if the plan isn't going to work, you find out, you'll be more settled. You should also think, at least right then, what is your learner like today. Think about where they are, what they like best from you in terms of your speed, your clarity, how they need you to be, and are you feeling that today? Are you there? Are you in a place to provide that today? Settle down so that you're in that good place. It will be a whole lot less confusing for your learner. If you have to think during the session when you're training, you will slow down, and you'll build in pauses, and pauses build in lapses of attention in your learner as they go, Hello? What happened? You don't want to be thinking a whole lot during it. You don't want to leave them spaces. I think it has an effect on all of us when we do that, even if we do that by default habit, our learners get pauses built in, or get some frustration or confusion built into it, and then we do too, because now we're feeling the clock ticking, we're feeling the dog looking at us like, Oh, ah, what am I doing here? Thinking calms everybody down when we think ahead of time. So that's the first part. Really, once you've thought it through, as best you can, you're going to have to come up with a plan that's at least this one session. Another thing people do is they look for a grand plan: I'm going to be teaching the retrieve. That's not a plan. What you're teaching is literally this next one minute of your time with your dog. You need to think that through in detail. I even suggest people write it down. I make people write that down as homework. Of course, in the class you write it down in the forum. You may decide later that writing it down isn't necessary, but if you don't write it down and find out it is necessary, you'll feel sorry about that, so write everything down. The kinds of things you want to have in your plan are, What am I going to do about, let's say, my environment? Have I picked an environment that is conducive to my goal? Am I going to have a cat strolling through my environment? Is that going to be OK, or is that going to really, really matter? So no, I need to plan, I'm going to train my dog to do this behavior, and I'm going to do it in this room on purpose. You do know what you're going to do. You have a plan for what you're going to do when your dog's nose goes to the floor. But you didn't clean the floor ahead of time. Do you need a clean floor? Maybe you don't need a clean floor because you're going to be working on nose is going to the ground. And you have a plan for what you're going to do when nose goes to the ground. So you don't care about your floor, but maybe you want a really clean floor so think that out -- so thinking and planning, right, they go together. Your environment is really going to matter. Also, how much time are you going to spend, and how do you know when you've spent that time? Do you have a timer? How long is too long to train? How long is too short to train? That's different for everybody, but I say go pretty short, go 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't have an answer to that question immediately in mind, don't go more than a minute. And then find out. You might find out it's longer, but don't start longer and find out you should have gone shorter. So in your plan should be how long you're going to train and how you're going to measure it. Will it be by time or will it be by number of treats? Count out 20 treats, and when your 20 are gone, you will stop and you'll reassess. It really matters that you keep things short because you can get into the weeds really fast. You're clicking for something, you're training for something, your dog offers something else. You're like, hey, that looks great, you follow it along, and soon you're not training not only what you intended to train, but you may be getting behaviors you're really not going to want in your final picture. It's not good to just keep training as long as you like. You need to stop and review what you did, reassess, and stick to it. And your plan should be for what are you going to do with your dog when you stop. I find people rarely put this in their plans, but it flummoxes them when they start to go through the session. Let's say you train for a minute and then you review your video. Well, the dog wasn't done in a minute. The dog was having a good time, hopefully, so what are you going to do to make sure your dog can stop while you review? If you stop it entirely and just put them up, that's kind of no fair, right? So knowing your dog, and what they're like, and what their challenges are, you will have to find a way to stop and keep your dog happy at the fact that that's happening and maybe ready to go again. That might be a skill you want to install way before you start training the actual behavior you were planning. You're going to plan certainly criteria, you're going to plan exactly what is correct, and everything else that is not going completely correct, and you're going to have to set up for that. The correct behavior that you're looking for is what you're going to be getting. It takes a lot of thought and a lot of planning, more than people usually give credit for, and that shows up as soon as you start seeing videos: Oh I didn't realize, I didn't even think about that, oh gosh. All the time spent thinking, all the time spent planning makes the minute or five of you doing much smoother and really successful for your lea…

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    E43: Andrea Harrison - "Goal Setting for the New Year" Dec 29, 2017
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: At FDSA, Andrea Harrison teaches classes for the human half of the competitive team. She's an educator who is passionate about all species including dogs and humans. Having lived with dogs her whole life, Andrea was an early convert to positive training. She has taken this message to the media many times including appearances on many TV shows and news programs as well as in print and on the radio. She has explored the science of brain research and worked with people of all ages on being successful and reducing anxiety and stress using her training and counseling, personality typing, and her own experiences. When it comes to dog sports her competitive addiction is agility. Andrea and her dogs have many titles between them with placements in regional and national competitions. Andrea has experienced animal wrangling for television and more recently has begun to explore scent work. Links Andrea's Website Andrea's Task Cards Next Episode: To be released 1/05/2018, and I'll be talking to Amy Cook about the science of dog training, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Andrea Harrison. Andrea is the people trainer on the FDSA team, working with dog sports teams to help handlers train themselves for better performance. She teaches classes on unleashing your personal potential, mental management, planning, goal setting, and more... and with the new year right around the corner, she's here today to talk goal setting and dog-related new year's resolutions. Hi Andrea! Welcome to the podcast. Andrea Harrison: Hey Melissa. Thank you so much for the invitation. Great to talk to you. Melissa Breau: I'm excited to chat today. To get us started, do you want to just remind listeners who you are and tell us a little bit about the dogs you share your life with? Andrea Harrison: Sure. I'm Andrea Harrison. I've been doing the mental management stuff in some capacity in my life professionally for nearly 30 years. I can't believe it. The dogs we're currently living with has changed a bit since the last time I was on the podcast, Melissa. We lost two of our older dogs. Melissa Breau: I'm sorry. Andrea Harrison: Yeah, it's hard. It happens to everybody, but it's never easy. Now we're living with Sally and Thea, our senior dogs, and they're the two dogs that have done the most competitively. Sally was in a feature film. They're the dogs who really push my dog training along. Then we have my husband's Golden Retriever, Samson, who is his dog very much. I try to keep hands off, although it's hard sometimes because he's lovely and really athletic, so I sneak out and do some stuff with him sometimes, but he's Tom's dog, I leave him alone as best as I can. He's the farm dog. We also have two younger dogs, Yen, who is a toy American Eskimo, and Dora, who is a feral little Cairn terrier mix. They're both great and lots of fun, and they basically bum around the farm, keeping me company, and I get my eye on them, which we'll chat about in a bit, I think. Melissa Breau: To jump right in, are there benefits to having set goals for our dog sports? Andrea Harrison: There are so many benefits to goal setting, and I think when we're talking about dog sports, one of the really important things to remember is goals can actually give you power. And I don't mean power in a dictator sense in an all-controlling way. I mean power of ourselves. Power of understanding that we are good enough and strong enough and competent enough. So many of us in dog training land look to someone else and admire them, and wish we were them, and perhaps have a little envy or jealousy. The goal setting that we do can give us the strength to do our own thing, to manage our own expectations, to create training plans, to create competitive goals, all of those kinds of things. So when I talk to people about goal setting, I try to remember to focus on goals, and FOCUS is one of my silly acronyms I like to use. The F stands for facing the present. You never want to dwell on the past, and you never want to just dream of the future. Goals give you the opportunity to focus on and face the present moment, because you look at where you are right now and determine what your goals will be. They let you offer a vision, so you decide, are your goals going to be around structure and plans, or are your goals going to be around skills and those sorts of things. So they give you that vision through offering it to you. C I think of as being for clarity. Goals will bring you clarity around what you want to do. If you want to train your dog to do draft titles and you get yourself sucked into doing obedience fronts, that's not going to be that helpful to you. So if you have good goals, you'll find it's easier to find clarity around what to do and those steps to build. I use the U for understanding the choices and priorities that you make. Say you're looking at what class to take next term at Fenzi, as an example. We all know it's hard to pick. There are so many great choices and we get ourselves spun. If you'd taken the time and done some goal setting, you can actually see which of the classes will help you move forward with your goals and which of the classes that you need. So to be able to understand the choices and set your own priorities can be really important too and really beneficial. And then of course when you achieve your goals, you get both success and satisfaction from them. People laugh at me when I say one of the reasons to goal set is to reach success and satisfaction, but it's so important. So many people don't internalize their own worth, and if goals give you a way to internalize your worth and feel better about yourself, that's a really good thing. So I think goal setting is a really important skill to develop, and I think it can add a lot to us as multi-dimensional positive dog trainers. Melissa Breau: To reiterate that acronym one more time: F is facing the present, O is offering vision, C is clarity, U is understanding, S is success and satisfaction. Andrea Harrison: Exactly. Melissa Breau: Excellent. That's great. I think that's really helpful for people to have that to keep in mind as they go through that process. Andrea Harrison: Exactly, and that's the thing. It gives you a way to break it down to remember it, because you're like, "Oh, goal-setting, it's too much work and you have to think too hard." You know, you wake up in the morning and drive to work, and you start thinking about a goal, and the phone rings or whatever, and you get distracted. Why would you go back to it? Well, focus. Remember FOCUS and focus on those goals. Melissa Breau: Right, right. I think people probably set goals that require their dogs to learn new skills when it comes to dog training, or to achieve specific things, like in their first OTCH or what have you… but since we're relying on another being, our dogs, what special considerations should we be keeping in mind as we set those goals? Andrea Harrison: Such an important question, and I think the thing I want all of my students, and I hope all of the FDSA students and everybody listening, to remember is that the dogs don't get a say in the goals we set for them. My little Chihuahua, Thea, I wanted her to do agility. She's a Chihuahua, she weighs 6 pounds, agility was not really her thing. She's quick, she's a character, she bombs around the field, but every different teeter I put her on dropped at a different rate of speed, even though they're not supposed to, and she had a couple of quite scary fly-offs. What I did was I started running her in classes that didn't have a teeter. My goal maybe was to do some more advanced agility titles with her, but my goal was to enjoy agility with her, and she did very, very well as long as she wasn't getting on strange teeters. Strange teeters were scary for her, and they were dangerous, and because I didn't let my own personal goals supersede her need to be safe, it allowed us to both enjoy a sport I really love. So you've got to remember the dog didn't get a say in your goal. If you would run if you were sore and achy, but your dog is sore and achy, it might not be a good day to run, because your dog doesn't have the same goals as you. When you look at that, you alluded to it earlier, too, this concept I talk about all the time, the difference between a process goal and an outcome goal. The outcome goal is getting the OTCH, it's getting the ribbon, it's going to Nationals, it's coming first at Nationals for on the podium or whatever, it's those big sort of ribbon goals. That's what I think of when I talk about outcome goals. And process goals are all the little steps that get you there. So a process goal might be training at least three times a week, or teaching my dog to find three different scents, or all of this sort of step-building goals. So when you're thinking about dog training, make sure that you're remembering to build more process goals than outcome goals. I'm not opposed to outcome goals, but the process goals will help you and your dog reach the outcome goal anyhow, and they're a little bit fairer for your dog, given that your dog doesn't have a say in the goal setting. The weekend warriors who say, "I'm going to a trial on Sunday, and I'm going to start training Friday night, and training like mad Friday and Saturday," they're not doing themselves nor their dogs any favors by that kind of goal setting. A systematic method of goal setting that includes process goals as an actually defined piece of the process are going to get you much, much further than just ping-ponging around from outcome goal to outcome goal and getting frustrated when you and your dog aren't achieving them the way you want. Melissa Breau: You mentioned outcome and process goals, and you got a little bit into my next question, which is how can people be smart about the goals they set for themselves and their dogs? Is there more you want to get into there? Andrea Harrison: Well, yeah, because I think you want to remember that process goals allow you to learn. Through the mistakes that you make, through the opportunities that you get through process, through watching what happens, that lets you learn the most from the goal-setting process. Outcome goals are around performance and they're important too, but outcome goals really are an opportunity to perform and show what you know. So when you're thinking about smart training, it's about picking the model goal setting that's going to work best for you. I'm always happy to share, there are hundreds of different kinds of goal setting models, but a really easy one is the smart goal setting. You hear about it all the time, and that's another acronym that's been around forever. There are some issues with it, but for people who have never goal set before, it can be a good place to start. It looks at having specific goals that are measurable, achievable, relevant, and timely, and those are each of the smart: S-M-A-R-T. And so a specific goal would be: I want Dora to do a dog walk. Measurable: Can she do a dog walk when I'm standing behind, at the side, or recalling her over it to me? Is that achievable for her? Yeah, she's confident on all kinds of shaky surfaces, she's absolutely fine with that. Is it relevant? Well, I like agility, so yeah, for me it is. Is it timely? Yeah, she's a mature little dog, she's still young enough to be fit, all of those kinds of things. So smart goals can give you a nice framework. It can be an intelligent way to look at goal setting. You want to make sure that you're making your goals positive, that you can choose to be positive about your goals and make them changing and affirming, as opposed to negative in things that you're likely to fail at. Some people will set a goal of "I don't want my dog to bark at strangers." That's a good goal: I don't want my dog to bark at strangers. A better goal for many of the goal setting experts would be to frame it as "I want my dog to walk quietly beside me down the street." So you can take that negative goal and turn it into a positive goal. That's one thing to keep in mind when you're trying to be intelligent about how you goal set. Also think about making intrinsic goals. When we get into goal setting, we often set our goals for someone else. So we might think, Oh the breeder would love it if I had a versatility title on this dog, or My husband says I'm spending so much money on dog training; I really should bring home some ribbons to show for it, or whatever. We intrinsically tend to set our goals, and that's why I like process goals, too — because they remind us to remember to be internal, set our goals in an intrinsic sense. You need to goal set for yourself. Not wholly — balance is OK — but make sure that you've got that balance, that you're remembering that you matter in this goal-setting regime that you're setting up, too. Melissa Breau: So for those out there, it's SMART: specific measurable, achievable, relevant, and timely. Was that it? Andrea Harrison: Correct, yeah. Melissa Breau: All right. I'm taking notes as we go through so I can remember some of the acronyms. Andrea Harrison: You're good! The acronyms — not everybody does them. They may or may not work for you, and that's fine. But I'm finding more and more people the acronyms help them hang on to stuff. That one I did not come up with, but I'm trying to create other ones around some of the work that I do to help people who are figuring that stuff out. Melissa Breau: It helps it stick in your head when you can remember a single word and you go, "Oh wait, I'm missing something, what was the M again, OK." So, I know that they say something like 80% of New Year's resolutions tend to fail by February – I wanted to address that a little bit. How can people who set a goal for themselves — a good goal for themselves, following the guidelines you laid out — how can they stay motivated past February, hopefully all the way through the year? Andrea Harrison: A few things, and we're lucky with our FDSA community because we've got a natural accountability system, partnership. If you're working on your TEAM titles, you've got the TEAM group. If you're working in a class and working through your bronze, you can post in your local group. There are lots of opportunities for that, and that's a really important thing. People need to remember to do that. But one of the things is to take your time and plan your goal. So here we are sitting on December 26 or whatever, and this will come out at the end of the week with hardly any time before New Year's to do our goal. People will be like, "Oh my god, I didn't goal set yet! I want to goal set!" And they'll jump into it and … don't. Stop, take your time, reflect around what matters to you, talk to an instructor you like or a training buddy already, and figure out what realistic goals are. If we set unrealistic goals, we will fail. We're setting ourselves up to fail when we do that. You're much better to invest the front-end time into making your goals realistic and appropriate fo…

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    E42: Special 1 Year Anniversary Edition Dec 22, 2017
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    SUMMARY: For our one year anniversary we're releasing a special edition of the podcast... a compilation of some of the most popular clips from the year in an extra long bonus episode. I hope you enjoy! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today I'm here with Teri Martin -- for those of you who don't know her, Teri is Denise's right hand woman; she handles setting up the classes for all of you each session, plays tech support, and is the main organizer for camp each year. Teri and I will be doing something a little different this episode… roughly a year ago today, December 23rd, I launched our very first episode, which was an interview with Denise Fenzi. To celebrate our anniversary, today we're going to reshare some of the more memorable moments from the last year. But before we dive into that, Teri is here with me to talk a little about the plans for FDSA Training Camp 2018. Welcome to the podcast Teri! Excited to have you co-hosting this special episode with me. Teri Martin: Thanks, Melissa. Happy to be here. Melissa Breau: Alright, to start us out, do you want to just remind everyone when and where camp is going to be next year? Teri Martin: Camp is going to be June 1st to 3rd, that's a Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and it's going to be at the Roberts Centre/Eukanuba Hall in Wilmington, Ohio. I'm super excited about the venue. It's going to have six different rings running and it's going to be amazing. Melissa Breau: I'm super excited because it's the first year that it's been close enough that I can drive, so I can bring a working dog, and I have a puppy, so can't beat that. Teri Martin: Cool. Melissa Breau: How does registration work? I know it's a little complicated and people tend to ask questions. Teri Martin: Working spot registration is complicated. The regular stuff isn't. Working spot are given priority registration, so there are two phases for those. The first one is Phase 1, and it's going to open on January 8th at 9 a.m. Pacific Time. If you have eight or more courses at any level in FDSA, you will get an invitation to register for that phase. After that, we have Phase 2, which is for people who have four or more courses at any level. That will start January 10th. And then after that we open it to everybody. I should add that auditing is also available and you don't need to register super early for that, but we do suggest you do at least fairly soon, but it's not going to be the same as the demand for the working spots. Melissa Breau: Can they start registering for that on the 8th, did you say? Teri Martin: If you're eight or more, then it will start on the 8th, and if you're four or more it starts on the 2nd. And then general registration opens on the 15th. Melissa Breau: Gotcha. Where do people go for the official schedule and all the additional information that you've got out? Teri Martin: Go to the FDSA website and it's up on there under "More FDSA Education." You will see a link for the training camp and all the information is there. Melissa Breau: All right, last one -- what is your favorite thing about camp? Teri Martin: Oh, so many things. For so many of us it's getting to see all these people that we feel that we've formed these friendships with, and it's just like you're greeting an old friend that you haven't seen for so long. And those instructors are exactly the same way as they appear when they're giving you advice. They're friendly and warm and funny and fabulous. So it's just the sense of bringing that whole community together in real life and getting all inspired to go home and train your dog. Melissa Breau: Awesome. I'm so looking forward to it. It's been an amazing experience the last few years being able to attend as a volunteer, and so I'm totally looking forward to seeing things from the other side! Teri Martin: We're going to miss having you as a volunteer, though. Melissa Breau: I'll be back next year. Do you want to introduce our first clip, or should I? Teri Martin: (something about the question I asked that led to this -- how Denise's training philosophy has influenced other aspects of her life -- maybe "First up is that first episode, an interview with Denise, from when you asked her…" ). I think it's pretty appropriate that we start with our fearless leader Denise. I think you had a question in the very first episode where you asked her how her training philosophy has influenced other aspects in her life, and for me that just totally sets the ground for how this whole wonderful school and the sense of community that surrounds it has come to be. Melissa Breau: Excellent. Let's play that clip. --- Denise Fenzi: It's been probably the most significant thing that's happened in my entire life. When I changed how I trained dogs, you have to be pretty obtuse not to recognize that we all learn the same way. And if you're a positive trainer with dogs and you really emphasize catching what they do right and ignoring what they do wrong, I mean, you really have to choose not to think about it, to realize that exactly the same thing is true with people. So for example both of my kids have very good manners, and I know how that came about in part. One thing is, I'm simply a respectful person and I encourage that. But I remember our first outings to restaurants when they were smaller, and if they said they would order for themselves, and they would say please and show nice manners, the second that person would walk away from the table I would say to my husband who'd be there, "I am so proud that we have kids who are so respectful and have such good manners. It makes me happy to go places with them." And you could almost see the difference the next time that opportunity came up again, you could almost see them go just a little bit further with their good manners. And it's not something I comment on any more, because they're older, they're 12 and 16, but they do it by habit. And I know that some part of their brain is always aware of it. So I've never said to them "Say please, say thank you," I don't tell them what to do, but when it happens I really work to catch those moments and acknowledge them. And I think dog training is a lot easier than child training, that's just my perspective. But I try to work with that, and I try not to think in terms of getting my kids to go to school and do well because I've restricted the rest of their lives, and I try to think in terms of balance and cooperation. Of course with people you can talk things out more. But at the end of the day if you're having any kind of conflict with another person, whether it's a family member or some random person you see on the street, the question I ask myself now is, do I want to feel better or do I want to change behavior? So if I want to feel better I may well behave badly, I may yell. I do yell, by the way. I do yell at my children, I do yell at my dogs. I know some people say, "That's amazing you do, you're not supposed to do that." Well that's great, I'm glad you're all there. I'm not, so I will yell, "Get off the couch," or whatever. I'm not really training, I'm expressing my upsetness. So that's, do I want to feel better? Yes, so I'm going to yell. Or somebody irritates me on the street because their dog runs up to mine and is off-leash, and so maybe I'm having a particularly bad day, and I might respond inappropriately. But then the second question is, do I want to change behavior? And I think recognizing that those are different things is really important because never, ever, ever am I yelling if I want to change behavior, and never am I talking to somebody like they're dumb, or ignorant, or anything, because it's all perspective, because they just have a different perspective. So maybe they don't understand that their off-leash dog running up to my old dog is a problem. And the reason it's a problem is, my dog is old and she doesn't like other dogs jumping on her. And I've had much better luck saying, "I know your dog is friendly, but my dog is very old and she has a lot of arthritis. And when your dog comes up like that it really scares her, and it hurts her." And when I say that, without fail they apologize and they put their dogs on a leash. And I smile, I'm not angry. I might be inside, but I don't show it. The next time I see them we continue with a pleasant set of interactions. And that kind of thinking, do I want to feel better or do I want to change behavior, has been really quite impactful, whether in my family or with people. We often talk about with our dogs, sometimes dog trainers are a lot nicer to their dogs than people. I find that very incongruent, and I don't like to live my life that way. I like my life to make sense. And I think we need to be very aware of not only how we treat our pets but show that same courtesy to each other, and I find that from there I am a happier person. Because when you are kind with people instead of getting your emotions from stewing in your, "oh my God, I can't believe how stupid that person is," that I understand that we take pleasure in those periods of time when we feel superior to other people, because I guess that's where that comes from, I understand that. But it is a short-lived and negative form of emotion, and in the long run it leaves you feeling worse about the world. Whereas when you take the time to think about things from somebody else's point of view, I find that that leads to an understanding, and honestly it makes my life a lot better. It makes me a more pleasant and happy person, so that has a lot of value. --- Melissa Breau: I think that one has really stuck with me. I think it's really influenced what FDSA is and how it works, too. Teri Martin: A little-known fun fact about all of that: As you know, we have a really active Facebook group that's been so much of this community, and that started way back in November 2013, which was maybe two sessions in. There was a group of us that had taken both of these courses and were totally all excited about the FDSA thing and wanted to start a Facebook group. So I pushed Denise about it, and she was like, "Oh, you know, I've had so many bad experiences with groups. People get really nasty and mean, and I just don't want to have that. Well, you guys can go ahead, if that's what you want to do, but I don't want to be part of it." and then she comes back about a week later and she says, "You know what, I thought it over and I think this is actually a pretty good thing, so let's go for it." And from there on, the rest is history. Melissa Breau: Yeah, think about how big a part that plays in the community today. It's huge. Teri Martin: Yes. And another fun fact is she has to be really nice to me, because I can actually kick her out of the group because I'm the original founder. Melissa Breau: That's funny. Since you brought up the early days, for our next clip let's use the clip I have from Amy Cook, where she shares how she became one of the first instructors here at FDSA. --- Melissa Breau: So I wanted to ask you too about the early days of FDSA because I believe, I think you actually told me that you were one of the first teachers that Denise brought on at Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. So I was really curious to get some of your impressions on how you think it's changed and kind of what happened when she initially approached you. Amy Cook: Oh, boy. You know, it was standing in the right place at the right time, I swear. You know, she had taught online elsewhere and decided to do this endeavor, and I was just…I'm pretty sure I was just finishing grad school and saying, well, I guess I'm going back to dog training. I wasn't sure what I had in store, I'll just revamp or ramp up my business again, fine. And I can remember, I was standing near a freezer in her garage and I can't exactly remember how it came up but she said, "We have a behavior arm, could you teach what you teach, teach a class in what you do?" Boy, I felt…the answer was both yes and no. The answer is no because I've never done that, but the answer is yes because well, it has to be possible, right? Sure. I'll certainly try it. I really wanted to do something like that. But for a second there I was like, really? Behavior? Behavior, though. I mean, behavior. It's complicated. People are all over the place. Dogs are behaving all over the place. It's a lot to…how will I do this online? But I had faith. She really had vision early on for how this was going to go and we brainstormed, I was really excited about it. She actually came up with the title of the class, Dealing with the Bogeyman, that's hers. She's like, let's call it that. I was like, sure. It was exciting. It was exciting times and I was really just like, well, I'm happy to run a class and see what I can do for people. If it's something I don't feel is resulting in improvements that are reasonable for the dogs I'm helping then it's not right, then online is more suited for skill-based stuff and not so much the concepts or the complicated behaviors. I shouldn't have been afraid because it's been amazing. --- Teri Martin: It's just so cool how all this online stuff works. There was a conversation elsewhere about this with Amy where she said she couldn't believe how much her online students progressed. They get to digest all their information on their own time frame, they get their feedback quickly, they can take the time to set up the scenarios properly so they don't get dogs overwhelmed, and can ask daily questions of the instructor. That's just so more efficient than meeting once every two weeks. So it's really a great way to work behaviour stuff. Melissa Breau: I think that was on her blog, where she wrote about the impact of online training. Teri Martin: I know it's come up a few times, so it very well could be in her blog. Melissa Breau: Not only is it an awesome way for people to train where they can set up scenarios and whatnot, but because it's online, it lets our students learn from some of the best trainers in the world, no matter where they live, it gives them access to these training concepts that maybe haven't quite become widespread enough for there to be classes on those topics locally. I think a good example of that is Julie Flanery's Imitation and Mimicry class. It's this really interesting concept that I couldn't imagine a local trainer trying to run a class on that. They'd be scrounging up students left and right. So I want to make sure we include a clip of her explaining that concept from her interview back in May. --- Melissa Breau: You kind of mentioned shaping and luring in there, but you wrapped up a class on Imitation and Mimicry and I have to say that's like such a fascinating concept. If you could start by just kind of explaining what that is for the listeners in case they're not aware of it, and just kind of sharing how you got into that, that would be great. Julie Flanery: Yeah. No, I'd love to. Imitation and Mimicry is a form of social learning or learning through observa…

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    E41: Mariah Hinds - "Proofing and Building Ring Reliability" Dec 15, 2017
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    SUMMARY: Mariah Hinds' love affair with dogs and fascination with their behavior began young. She's wanted to be a dog trainer since she was eight years old. She's now been training dogs and teaching people for more than 14 years and is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer. Mariah has broad practical experience in the dog world, volunteering and working in kennels, shelters and veterinary hospitals, dog sitting and walking, fostering rescue dogs, and two years of veterinary technician college. She has a passion for finding the best way to communicate with the human half of the dog handler team, because she knows small changes in the handler and practice can yield big results in the long run. Her specialty at FDSA is teaching skills that require self-control from the dog including proofing, impulse control, stays and greetings while using positive training methodologies. Links Mariah's website Next Episode: To be released 12/22/2017, and it will be a special anniversary edition of the podcast, so stay tuned! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we'll be talking to Mariah Hinds. Mariah has been training dogs and teaching people for more than 14 years and is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA). She also just recently put a UD on her awesome border collie, Clever. And she's here to today to talk about proofing and what it takes to get ready for competition. Hi Mariah! Welcome to the podcast. Mariah Hinds: Hi. Melissa Breau: Can you just remind listeners a little bit about who you are and who the dogs that you share your life with are? Mariah Hinds: Sure. I have Jada, my Doberman, who is 11-and-a-half years old. I got into competition obedience with her and she's my novice A dog. We started training for the ring at age 4, and she earned her novice, open, and utility titles, and some optional titles as well, between the ages of 4 and 8, and she's the one who taught me that positive training methods are much better for her and they're a lot more fun. Clever is my 5-year-old border collie. She got her novice title with 198 from 199. She won first place in Open against 100 other dogs last year with the 199, and she just got all three of her utility legs for her title a few weekends ago. She also knows a ton of tricks, and we train in agility as well. My goal with her for 2018 is to compete in open utility at all the local trials, and hopefully we'll earn some OTCH points along the way, and hopefully we will compete at the Classic next year and place in the top twenty as well. Those are my goals for her for the next year. And I have Talent, who's the baby dog. Her name is Squishy because she likes to lay on top of me. She's 14 months and we're just building the foundations for precision for obedience, and I hope to earn her MACH as well her OTCH and UDX, so we're doing a lot of agility training right now as well. So that's all about my dogs and a little bit about me. Is there anything else you want to know about me? Melissa Breau: Gee, I don't know. Is there anything else good that I should want to know? Mariah Hinds: Not really. I moved from Orlando to Fort Mill, South Carolina, a year ago, and so I'm just having fun getting to know people around here. Melissa Breau: I know that the core of our conversation today, I'm hoping we'll get really deep on proofing and getting "ring ready," but before we dive into that stuff, I figure it makes sense to get some terminology stuff straight. So I wanted to ask what proofing means to you, and then maybe a little bit about why it's critical for success in competition. Mariah Hinds: Sure. So for me, proofing means that we're adding achievable challenges to a skill. So once a dog can do a behavior reliably on cue — and it can be a verbal cue or a hand signal as a cue — then we ask the dog to do the behavior in different locations, and perhaps we can ask the dog to do the behavior with other dogs around, and perhaps we can ask the dog to do the behavior in different locations in proximity to us, so "Can you sit in front of me? Can you sit at heel? Can you sit on the right side of my body? Can you sit between my feet?" I really think that proofing is critical to success in competition, because there are tons of distractions at a trial, and although you can't actually train for every single distraction, you can practice adding distractions in training. And if we add distractions in a strategic way so the dog is really successful, then we're really building the dog's confidence, and the dog learns to say, "Yes, I know exactly which behavior you want me to do, and no matter what's going on, no matter how far away I am, or where my handler is, or how quickly I'm moving, I know that this is the behavior that gets me closer to earning my reward." Melissa Breau: You mentioned your dogs' different ages and different stages. At what age or point in your training journey do you really begin to add proofing, and what does that look like? Mariah Hinds: I think everyone proofs their dog, whether they realize it and they work through the behavior strategically or whether they don't. We work on adding distractions to our heeling, we work on adding distance to our position changes for utility, we work on adding out of motions to our downs for open, we work on adding distractions to our stays, we work on practicing in new locations, and once the dog has a basic understanding of these cues with different locations and durations and distance, we can oftentimes add another layer of understanding with even more distractions and more proofing. Typically, I find that those fall into a few different categories. It hasn't been introduced yet, the skill is just being learned, the dog is more than 50 percent reliable with behavior, we're adding new locations, or we're proofing for duration and stimulus control, we're adding distance or distractions, and so on. Those are all the categories that behavior can really fall into. And when the dog's just learning the skills, we setup the environment so that the dog can be really successful, and if we set it up well, then the dog goes up to being successful with behavior 50 percent of the time or better really quickly. Then we can start practicing in new locations, such as in the bedroom instead of the training room, or on the patio, or at the training building after the dog is acclimated, and we can also work on building duration and putting behavior on stimulus control. Then we can add distance and distractions. So I start adding distractions strategically to my dog's behaviors the moment that the behavior is robust and strong enough that the dog will really likely be successful. And if we practice the skill the same way without building more challenges with the behavior, then our training might just go stagnant and we might not make any real progress toward our goal. Melissa Breau: Is there ever a point when you stop proofing? Mariah Hinds: Not really. When I'm first working on sequencing behaviors together, such as for the retrieve over a jump, that's a behavior sequence, and it starts with the dog sitting in heel position. Then they go over the jump on cue, then they automatically retrieve the item, then they return over the jump, automatically do a front. So when I'm teaching that sequence, then I'm definitely going to start sequencing those things together with much fewer distractions than if I'm just working on one piece of that behavior. But before that, I want my dog to be able to do those behaviors separately with distractions. I want the dog to be able to pick up the dumbbell off the ground with distractions around. I want the dog to be able to go over the jump with my jump cue and take the cookie as the reward for that behavior. I want the dog to be able to set up in heel position and stay while I throw a distraction such as a cookie or a dumbbell or a toy. I want the dog to be able to come over the jump from a sit/stay at any angles with the cue to jump. I find that that's a really overlooked part of that behavior sequence and that falls apart really easily. If the pieces are solved separately before we sequence them together, then sequencing the behaviors together happens really quickly, and if a piece of the sequence falls apart, then we can easily fix that piece of the sequence just by revisiting that piece. And once the behavior sequence or the chain is solid, then we want to go back through and add more layers of understanding, and more layers of confidence, by adding distractions and proofing the entire behavior sequence. For example, with Clever, we're working on adding some distractions to our slow heeling. So at the trial, at our third leg, she really was a little forge-y with the slow heel, and so I really wanted to get that a little more reliable. She's consistent with it until we add distractions, so that's what we're working on. The goal, ultimately, for her will be that my training partner can fling a toy and that she'll remain in heel position while we're walking. Right now we're working on food distractions while she heels, because she finds that a lot easier. She's way more toy motivated than she is food motivated, so I'm building confidence with her with that so that she understands, so then I can add more layers of confidence. The other thing that we're working on proofing is doing a finish with the pressure of a judge, without her squeaking from the stress of the pressure. So at home I'm practicing finishing, having her finish on cue with a dog bone as a distraction, or some other distraction, food or toy distraction. And then, when I have my training friends to help me, then I'll do a few repetitions of what she's been successful with at home, and then I'll replace the distraction with a person and see if she can do that successfully. Melissa Breau: I know that precision and maintaining criteria are super-important to you, so I wanted to delve into that a little bit and ask you what the relationship between proofing and getting really precise, consistent behaviors is, and if you could just talk about that for a minute. Mariah Hinds: Sure. First, we need to add the behavior. We need the behavior to be precise with our desired criteria. So that means that has to happen first, and that needs to happen before we add layers of proofing. And we can certainly use different reinforcement strategies to help maintain the desired criteria without losing attitude, and that's really important to do. I do that a lot with my puppy when I'm building reliability, so she'll get one reward for trying, and she'll get multiple rewards for doing it accurately. We can also think about where we place the reward so that we're getting the most effect for our desired behavior. This is talked about a lot in the Precision Heeling class that Denise does. If a dog is lagging, we want to build more reliability for being in heel position, and then we really want the reward to happen ahead of heel position, and if the dog is heeling too wide, then we want the reward to happen with the dog really close to us, with the rear in as well, because otherwise we'll create crabbing, and if the dog is heeling and they tend to crab out and forge ahead, then we can have the dog spin away from us, which encourages their butt to get in, and then we can reward them from behind heel position, or even from our right hand. The dogs tend to anticipate when a reward will happen, and they will gravitate more to that area. And we do talk a lot about reinforcement strategies in my class, and it really can help a lot with building reliability. Melissa Breau: Do you work precision and consistency separately? It sounds a little bit like they're very closely related. Can you talk about that for a minute? Mariah Hinds: I do think they're closely related. I mean, I think that precision has to happen first, and consistency is really just generalizing the behavior. So first I work on precision. Let's say that I'm working on fronts. The first thing I do is I'm going to help the dog be correct, so I can use a platform to help the dog find front precisely. I can also do step back fronts where I lure the dog into position while I take a step back, and once the dog is precise at finding front from two or three feet away, with the platform or with luring, then I can start fading my lure, so I can ask the dog to find front with my hands pointing at my face instead of luring the dog with my hand. Another reason why I like to do that stuff is because when I'm teaching a dog where I want them to focus when they're finding front, I don't want them to accidentally find front on a stranger or the judge. I do want them to look up at my face, and then I can go to teaching them to find the precise position with my hands at my side. Once the dog can find the position precisely from two to three feet away, then I can start adding different angles to come to front, I can toss a treat from the left or to the right and have the dog find front that way. Again, this is from a very short distance away, and that's quite a challenging thing to do precisely. So once they're precise with that, then I can start adding more speed by tossing the reset cookie further away, I can start weaning off of the platform and going back to an earlier step to help guide them, to help guide the dog to where they should go. I like to do a little bit of pointing to my face as I'm weaning off of the platform, and then I can add in my distractions such as the judge and the pressures of the ring gating and so on. So the dog needs to understand exactly where the position is precisely first before we get consistency with that precision with a lot of variables. Melissa Breau: I think all novice competitors have been at that place where they thought their dog knew something, they show up to compete, and then their dog's carefully trained behaviors fall apart totally in the ring. Where do people go wrong when that happens? And what kind of things can they do to prevent it? Mariah Hinds: I think that's a really common thing that happens, and I think that we all fall into the habit of training at one or two places because it's convenient, and then we expect that is enough to get reliability in a new place, with new dogs, and new people, and a stranger in the room with you. I think that's a lot to ask of our dogs. I find that training at different places is really important, and going to show and gos is a great way to see where your dog is in terms of readiness. If you can't find a show and go, then I think another great option is to go to places where there are other dogs behind a fence or on leash. One option would be going to a big, grassy area outside of a dog park and practicing there, or you can go to a parking lot near the dog beach entrance, or you can go to a parking lot at a really busy veterinary clinic. For me and my dogs, that always tends to give me a really accurate gauge as to where they are with reliability with distractions. For me, I like to combine that with distraction work at home. It just isn't practical for me to go train at a new place more than once a week, but at home I can add challenging distractions that help my dog understand that the way to earn the reward for the cued behavior is really to ignore the distracti…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    E40: Nancy Gagliardi Little - "Start Line Stays" Dec 08, 2017
    Show notes

    SUMMARY: Nancy Gagliardi Little comes back on the podcast — Nancy has been training dogs since the early 1980's when she put an OTCH on her Novice A dog, a Labrador Retriever. Since then she has put many advanced obedience titles on her dogs, including 4 AKC OTCH titles, 6 UD titles, 3 UDX titles, and multiple championships in herding and agility. Today, she joins me to talk startline stays in agility. Links Nancy Gigliardi Little's Website Next Episode: To be released 12/15/2017, featuring Mariah Hinds. We'll be chatting about proofing and building reliably, ring-ready behaviors! TRANSCRIPTION: Melissa Breau: This is Melissa Breau and you're listening to the Fenzi Dog Sports Podcast brought to you by the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online school dedicated to providing high-quality instruction for competitive dog sports using only the most current and progressive training methods. Today we have Nancy Gagliardi Little back on the podcast — Nancy has been training dogs since the early 1980's when she put an OTCH on her Novice A dog, a Labrador Retriever. Since then she has put many advanced obedience titles on her dogs, including 4 AKC OTCH titles, 6 UD titles, 3 UDX titles, and multiple championships in herding and agility. Welcome back to the podcast, Nancy! Nancy Gagliardi Little: Thanks, Melissa. Thanks for having me. Melissa Breau: The last time we talked a little bit about obedience. Today we're talking a little bit about agility. To start us out, do you want to just remind listeners who you are and share a little about the dogs you share your life with? Nancy Gagliardi Little: Sure. Who I am … I guess I'm still discovering that, but I live in Minnesota, about 45 minutes north of the Twin Cities, and I compete mostly in agility, AKC mostly, but also USDAA and UKI. I still train my dogs in obedience, I just don't compete in obedience anymore. I have aspirations of doing that again, but we'll see. I teach agility and obedience online classes with FDSA, and I teach agility and obedience lessons and classes at a local center here in Minnesota. I did judge obedience, AKC obedience, for about twenty years, and I judged around the country in all classes and also in some national events. So that's about me. And then my dogs. I've had border collies since the mid-'80s, and I love everything about the breed, including their quirkiness and their sensitivity. My dogs are Score, a border collie, 13. He's retired, obviously. He did agility and herding. And Schema is 9 years old. She's currently my competition dog doing agility. She is competing at AKC Nationals this year in 2018, and I think that's the fifth time she's qualified. She's also competed at Cynosport. And then I have Lever. He's 4, and he is competing in agility. I train him and Schema too, both in obedience. He's kind of the up-and-coming guy, I guess. And then my husband has a toller and his name is Rugby. He's 2, and he trains in agility and obedience. Melissa Breau: That's your crew, and we were talking a little bit before I hit "record" that hopefully there'll be one more joining the family early next year, right? Nancy Gagliardi Little: Correct. I think they're supposed to be born in early December. It's one of Lever's puppies. Melissa Breau: I look forward to lots of puppy pictures. Nancy Gagliardi Little: Yeah. That will be exciting. Melissa Breau: I mentioned in the intro that last time you were on we really talked obedience, but today we're going to talk agility, so specifically we're diving into start line stays. So, I wanted to start with how they're different from a stay in any other sport, something like obedience, for example. Nancy Gagliardi Little: They are quite a bit different in the agility environment. Agility is very high-energy, and the environment itself is fairly unpredictable, and that makes for difficult conditions for dogs that are trying to perform these skills that they learned at home and in class, especially the start lines. That's kind of the transitional exercise into the course. And then of course most dogs love agility, and it's pretty reinforcing for them to go. In obedience the stays are very predictable, well, in actually all the exercises are fairly predictable. They're patterns. Dogs learn those patterns, and that gives them pretty clear information when exercises start and end. Even in obedience, dogs can make mistakes. They might read a pattern and anticipate the finish of an exercise, especially the stay, and it's probably just when the judge says, "Exercise finished," so they're pretty much done anyway. So it's just much more predictable. Melissa Breau: Why is it so important that people actually have a good start line stay in agility? What benefits does it offer if they put in the work and they get there? Nancy Gagliardi Little: Well, agility is pretty much all about speed, and most people have dogs that are much faster than they can run. I know I do, and most of the people do, and if they don't, they want that. Being able to lead out gives you an advantage, especially with a fast dog, and actually on many courses it can be difficult to start without a lead out with a super-fast dog. Going into the sequence, you just can't get where you need to be to cue something. So yes, it's quite an advantage having that. It gets you ahead. It might even keep you ahead throughout the course. And without that, you're going to be behind, which isn't all that bad if you want to do rear crosses throughout the course. Some people are very good at that. I have some students without start lines just because they came to me after their dog was a little bit older and we just decided we weren't going to teach the dogs the stay. And there are definitely some sequences that they just can't … or courses with starts that they just can't do, or they just have issues with it, so it does put them at a disadvantage. Melissa Breau: You mentioned that you decided just not to bother with it. Why do people struggle with it? Why is it something that's hard to teach? I think a lot of people think a stay is a stay is a stay, right? Nancy Gagliardi Little: Right, right. Well, there's just so many variations, but it could be that there's holes in training or holes in generalization. There's a lot of that that happens. And lots of times handlers try to control the dog's behavior instead of training, so that would be like a hole in training. It could also be the training sessions are handled differently than the handling at the trials, and there's a lot of that that's due to handling. Another thing I see contributing to the start line is — this is interesting — but the handler's own increased arousal level. And this happens in obedience, you see that too, but in agility it's pretty much, it's a big contributing factor where the handlers are too hurried, they're un-confident and disconnected when they enter the ring, and then, at the beginning of the run, they're thinking more about the course and they just don't stay connected and focused on the dog. The dogs sense that, and that can cause — in the dogs we're talking about, probably the dogs that have increased arousal level — that causes stress and also increased arousal, and that's never good at the start line. Especially the dogs start reading a disconnected handler, and they start losing the ability to think, and then you have a break. A lot of times there are small issues that crop up along the way and they aren't noticed by the trainer until it becomes a big problem. And that happens a lot. There's little things, you know, little things that they just aren't seeing, or they aren't aware of, and then they don't know how they got there. Melissa Breau: Do you mean on the day of the trial or do you mean … Nancy Gagliardi Little: I just mean in general kind of building up to that, but it will happen at the trials usually because that's where the ultimate differences are between the training and the trials. Melissa Breau: Little stuff like creeping, or what do you mean? Nancy Gagliardi Little: Well, it would be mostly handling. Some of it would be handling. The dogs start getting a little more and more aroused because they maybe can't predict when the handler's going to release them. That causes … and it depends on the dog. It could be that this dog, this particular dog, responds to arousal and stress by creeping forward, or they stand up, or even just a glazed look in their eyes. It just keeps changing until there's actually just an outright break. And that's when the handler notices that there's an issue, but it's actually happened long before that. Melissa Breau: I know we talked about this a little bit just now, but I think a lot of people attribute start line problems to poor impulse control. The person just didn't work it enough, or didn't do it right, or something. Nancy Gagliardi Little: Right. Melissa Breau: Can you talk a little bit about the role that impulse control actually does play in a good start line stay? Nancy Gagliardi Little: I hear that a lot. People think their dogs are pushy or have impulse control issues. But I've seen more over-arousal issues or frustration issues than impulse control issues. And frustration and over-arousal, they can be caused by lack of clarity, unpredictable cues, and then, like I said before, handlers that aren't connected with their dogs. The dogs really want that. And impulse control skills, they're just a part of the foundation of training a start line, and it should be fun for the dog. Some of the issues with start lines might be due to poor impulse control training, but there's a lot more at play here than that. And actually I've seen plenty of dogs that really have great impulse control, but they can't hold a stay at the start line, and a lot of that is due to just their arousal state. They can't think. People just call that "impulse control issue," and really it's something quite different. Melissa Breau: That's really interesting. You commented that you've seen a lot of dogs with great impulse control who really struggle with this particular skill. I think that's something a lot of people don't think about. Nancy Gagliardi Little: Yeah, exactly. Melissa Breau: I'd imagine … I don't do agility, but I'd imagine that part of what often goes wrong with a start line is simply that the dog breaks their stay in a trial situation and people just start the run. And they do that over and over again, and the dog figures out, "Well, we're just going to go." Nancy Gagliardi Little: They're so smart! Melissa Breau: Is there a better way to handle that? Nancy Gagliardi Little: That's a really good question and it's a complicated one, too. I think it's one of those things that's hard to answer, but it's part of what goes wrong. Usually there's an issue, like I said before, that's starting to manifest long before the dog even breaks the start line, and the handler isn't recognizing it until the dog finally leaves before that release cue, and it's actually usually in a really important run for them, so they're like, "Oh my god." And a lot of times this has been happening for a while. The dog's been breaking it, but the handler doesn't really notice it because they might be just turning back and releasing, and this time they turn back and they don't release and the dog goes. Something like that. And like you say, the more a dog breaks the start line in a trial, the more it becomes a pattern or a habit, and actually it's very, very reinforcing to the dog because they love — most of them love — agility and they want to go. So in terms of a way to handle it once they go, I'm not a big fan of removing the dog for breaking the start line. If you watch some handlers, a lot of times they remove the dog, and the dog's already taken a few obstacles by the time he realizes that he's being taken off course, so he's probably not even going to associate breaking the start line with that removal. And that not understanding why he's being removed is going to cause more stress and frustration for the dog, and that makes the start line area even more frustrating, and then that causes more mistakes, so how do you handle it? Again, it's very complicated, and it also depends on the dog and the handler. Lots of times when we decide this with students, I come up with a plan, depending on the dog, the sensitivity of the dog, the experience of the dog, making sure the handler's being clear, all those things come into play for that. It's mainly just making sure that the handling is clear. I'll give you some examples. Melissa Breau: That would be great. Nancy Gagliardi Little: And I'll just use my own dogs because their start lines are very good, but Schema, both of them, have broken their start lines. Schema, so she's been running about seven-and-a-half years. When she was maybe 4 or 5 years old, it was in a two-ring soccer arena with lots of activity behind and around, and as I'm leading out, I was watching her and she left before I gave her the release cue. But I was watching her, I saw her expression, and she looked the same as she always does. There was no twitching or any odd behavior. I just let her run. I just went on because that's just the way I feel. It's like, I'll look at this later, we'll deal with this later, and one mistake is not going to affect anything. I looked at the video and I obsessed on it, and then I went to the practice jump between runs, and I tested her with some games, and she was solid, like I figured she would be, and she never broke the rest of the weekend or any time after that run. So I suspect she just heard someone else at the practice jump behind her give the same release cue and truly thought I had released her. So if I would have removed her for that, or done anything but just run her, that would have been very confusing to her, so she never really knew. An example I have with Lever is he's got some arousal issues, increased arousal issues, I've been working on a lot over the years. He has some great skills but has issues where he's really gotten, he's really improved, but his start lines were a little … I guess there's lots of arousal there, and they've gotten better. What I do at the start line is I ask him how aroused he is. I know that sounds funny, but I basically just pause briefly before I leave him, and if he can look at me before I lead out — I step lateral and then wait for him to look at me. It just takes a brief moment. If he looks at me, his arousal level is under control. There was a time when he couldn't even look at me, and that told me that his arousal level is high. That didn't mean I was going to do anything different. I just needed to know that. I just would stay super-connected with him as I led out and just be a little bit more focused on him. So about six months ago I waited a little bit too long to see if he could look at me, and that was me trying to control him, a little bit of control. It was too long, and once I decided to leave, he broke. I realized what I was doing at that time and I just went on. I just kept going. And he actually knew right away he made a mistake, and that was not my intention to make him think he made a mistake, because I knew in his case it was arousal. But he did have a really nice run after that. So if I would have p…

    Full show notes at the publisher

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