The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Latest Episodes:

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’ Aug 09, 2021

Show notes

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlay

Nuggets:

5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales

7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days

9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid

11:25 – Weather in Wales

16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others

20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there

25:27 – The ego

27:42 – How the ego manifests in our climbing, and loosening our attachment to outcomes

30:52 – Patron Question from Tyler: What type of people are most likely to seek coaching?

33:42 – Patron Question from Tyler: Differences between men and women (in general) when it comes to fear of falling

37:05 – Patron Question from Tyler: Advice when supporting someone who is working on their mental game?

40:37 – More resources on fear of falling

41:32 – Patron Question from Kellen: Differences between advanced and new climbers when it comes to mental training needs.

43:17 – Patron Question from Will: How to balance between confidence vs. cockiness, and cultural differences in confidence

48:46 – Magic Line description

54:51 – Hazel’s mental practice while climbing Magic Line

58:18 – Jasna’s email, and what inspired Hazel about Magic Line

1:04:19 – Question from Jasna: How did Hazel prepare for the possibility of failure?

1:07:37 – Keeping your head and climbing better

1:08:40 – Daily mental practices

1:11:20 – Hazel’s thoughts on the lack of publicity of Magic Line

1:15:17 – Patron Question from Jen: Any advice from Hazel’s shoulder surgery and recovery?

1:24:03 – Patron Question from AnnaMarie: Most memorable climb?

1:25:03 – Next El Cap route?

1:25:56 – Escaping to Greece during covid, and her upcoming trip to the states

1:29:14 – How to connect with Hazel

1:30:18 – Gratitude

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet Aug 02, 2021

Show notes

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolf

Nuggets:

3:17 – Overview of the conversation

5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown

9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids

13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 1998

17:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues

22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb’s mindset around learning and coaching, and some of the issues Robb witnessed with hard-charging Crossfit athletes, and when low-carb and fasting might be inappropriate

30:04 – Common symptoms other than leanness that can be tied to our diets

36:00 – Biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations from Robb related to diet and lifestyle (protein and sleep)

39:51 – The importance of sleep, and the effects of sleep deprivation

42:34 – Robb’s parallel sleep universe

44:14 – Practical recommendations for a climber at a burger joint, and Robb’s breakfast club

46:46 – Protein powders and supplements vs. whole foods

51:05 – Sacred Cow, a case for better meat, and breaking down the carbon and methane life cycle of beef production

1:02:33 – Water use for beef and almonds

1:06:00 – Putting on your high school debate hat, and reversing desertification with ruminant animals

1:09:17 – Forbes article, and how big food and big pharma benefit from a meatless planet (and why that should concern us)

1:11:21 – Is the solution still to eat “less” meat?

1:21:09 – Patron Question from Max: Are hotdogs Paleo?

1:21:59 – Patreon Question from Yoni: How does Robb challenge his own beliefs and biases?

1:28:05 – LMNT electrolytes and The Healthy Rebellion

1:31:33 – Gratitude

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser) Jul 29, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.

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*The full version is 1:47:11.

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating Jul 26, 2021

Show notes

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson

Nuggets:

2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball

6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler’s dad

11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid

14:48 – Tyler’s education

16:38 – Starting to climb in college

18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy

21:06 – Tyler’s path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now

25:48 – Root cause

28:29 – Tyler’s most common recommendation: more variation

32:33 – How BFR (blood flow restriction) was created

37:31 – What BFR looks like, what’s happening, and why it works

45:41 – How you would use BFR for a shoulder injury, and literal vs. physiological intensity

51:36 – How you would use BRF to rehab a pulley injury

54:18 – Why Tyler underpressurized the cuffs the first time he does BFR with an athlete

56:33 – Should you try BRF at home?

58:43 – A BRF protocol Tyler tried for finger strength training

1:02:40 – How you might use BRF for training (big picture)

1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR?

1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training

1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool?

1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing

1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated

1:20:09 – Density hangs

1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol

1:31:20 – The optimal loading range for tendon pathologies, and why most strength protocols are more similar than they are different

1:34:45 – Tendon stiffness, and how unloading can stiffen the system

1:38:58 – Speculating about physiological explanations for why Emil’s program worked so well

1:40:58 – Don’t get sweaty and tired on the hangboard, and separating hangboard training from our climbing workouts

1:44:58 – Finger anatomy, condiles, bone lengths, customized finger training

1:52:33 – Doughnut eating

1:53:46 – New tattoo

1:55:03 – Guitar riffs

1:57:20 – Tyler’s wife

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets Jul 19, 2021

Show notes

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehl

Nuggets:

2:05 – Karate

6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words

9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’

10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move

15:53 – Parental support

16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’

20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’

25:15 – Joe’s Valley

27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird kid’s lunch table

30:51 – Developing his image, sponsorship, and performing for an audience

32:45 – The competition disguise

33:50 – Jason’s theme song

35:25 – A chronicle of Jason’s hairstyles

42:30 – The Dreaded Wudan Mullet

43:30 – A chronicle of Jason’s vans

47:35 – Falling in love with Hueco, and climbing in the summer

52:30 – Are there any FAs left in Hueco?

55:37 – Having kids, and focusing your time

1:06:38 – Cargo nets

1:17:35 – Social Media, and being a professional climber

1:25:44 – Patron Question from Logan: What was the most difficult part of dropping everything to be a pro climber?

1:28:01 – Odd jobs

1:29:39 – Patron Question from Will: How did the NE influence his climbing?

1:33:16 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you ever go back and repeat dangerous climbs you’ve done before?

1:35:53 – Gratitude

1:37:40 – Don’t give away the beta

1:41:22 – Reminders and stuff I’m excited about

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs Jul 12, 2021

Show notes

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vest

Nuggets:

3:24 – The climbing closet

4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace

11:23 – A mix of emotions

12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber

17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure

23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities

24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates

28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie

32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training

35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”

41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos

45:06 – The standing splits challenge

47:33 – Combining training with play

52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al”

59:26 – Allison’s training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers

1:03:11 – Campusing

1:05:42 – One-arm hangs

1:16:25 – Shoulder strength

1:17:41 – Christian Core’s hangboard philosophy

1:20:07 – Grip positions

1:21:52 – Allison’s hangboard schedule, and many

different approaches that work

1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more

1:27:36 – Topouts

1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training

1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?

1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least?

1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?

1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams

1:54:09 – Best decisions

1:55:10 – Competition self-talk

1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors

1:58:06 – “More doesn’t always mean better.”

1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?

2:00:01 – Grateful for community

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser) Jul 08, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese.

You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27.

A Call from Ethan Jul 07, 2021

Show notes

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling Jul 05, 2021

Show notes

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.

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Facebook Group:

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Private Q&As:

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Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2

Nuggets:

00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As

05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?

11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?

20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?

23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?

29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable?

31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?

34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?

37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?

38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?

39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?

41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?

43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?

43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?

44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?

49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?

53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?

58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?

1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take?

1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?

1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?

1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?

1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?

1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?

1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism Jun 28, 2021

Show notes

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long

Nuggets:

3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds

6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing

10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing

12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing

17:47 – Paisano Overhang

30:23 – Hangover

38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing