The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Latest Episodes:

Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser) Jun 24, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next.

You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:34:55.

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show Jun 21, 2021

Show notes

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall

Nuggets:

3:35 – The cellar

6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data?

11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength

14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience

18:19 – What Tom did to get strong

23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders

28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits

37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training

45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?

49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles

54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?

59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?

1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?

1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?

1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?

1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?

1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work

1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show

1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel

1:16:02 – Gratitude

EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing Jun 14, 2021

Show notes

Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first ascents, outdoor bouldering vs. indoor training, climbing and life goals, discovering coaching, leading by example, and sharing the love of climbing with his team.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyle-omeara

Nuggets:

3:47 – Breakfast, day-old pastries, and experimenting with diet

7:55 – Food diary, sleep, and eating enough

15:42 – Early days in Leavenworth

19:32 – How Kyle started climbing, Merrimore Park, and planting the seed of coaching

26:46 – ‘Rampage’, first Leavenworth days, and Squamish

32:36 – Transitioning into sport climbing, his first 5.13,

37:16 – Kyle’s “Best of the best” list, and grading everything in Index grades

42:12 – ‘Crown Jewel’

56:01 – Outdoor bouldering vs. indoor bouldering/training, and trying to beat the system

1:01:01 – Developing boulders by default and not by design, epics in Yosemite, and window cleaning

1:09:33 – Best of the best boulders in Yosemite

1:12:29 – Moving to Tahoe, discovering coaching, and Kyle’s path to improvement

1:18:43 – What Kyle wishes he had done differently in the past regarding training, and perfecting the art of projecting

1:24:01 – Climbing and life goals

1:27:14 – Experience over strength

1:28:41 – ‘Lex Luthor’, moving to Salt Lake, and coaching at Momentum

1:36:45 – Leading by example

1:41:17 – Themes among successful kids that Kyle has coached, and the contrast between Nathanial Coleman and Dalton Bunker

1:46:25 – Staying above the line, and climbing frequency

1:48:22 – Spending more days trying climbs, and how Kyle has integrated training

1:52:07 – ‘The All-Around Routine’, and committing to a training cycle for the first time

2:11:27 – Patron Question from Nolen: How does Kyle balance his performance in sport climbing vs. bouldering?

2:16:54 – The power of the psych, and following your motivation

2:20:26 – Patron Question from Lena: Top three footwork drills for kidlets?

2:25:50 – Patron Question from Evan: When is Kyle (The Voice) going to record children’s books or guided meditation?

2:30:34 – Gratitude

Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser) Jun 10, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo shoot. We also talked about Katie’s new goal to climb 300 5.13s by the age of 50, how she has been integrating outdoor climbing with training, and how she structured her latest sport climbing trip to the Red River Gorge.

You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 44:54.

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen Jun 07, 2021

Show notes

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into climbing, how to train pinch and sloper strength, why Eric started PhysiVantage, and the importance of collagen for building stronger fingers.

Discount code:

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-2

Nuggets:

01:23 – Differences between Eric’s training vs. his sons, and why his sons played football

11:40 – Maintaining climbing strength during football season

15:08 – Patreon Question from Eli (advice for parents getting their kids into climbing)

21:20 – Exposing kids to a variety of climbing styles

22:53 – Patron Question from Jordan Cannon (5.14, or free climbing El Cap?), and Eric’s first 5.13c

27:53 – Another Question from Jordan (would you rather see your kids climb 5.15, or free a hard El Cap route)

32:50 – Patron Question from Gunter (how to train pinches and slopers)

39:12 – Learning from other experts and coaches

40:52 – What Eric is most excited about in training for climbing right now, and the Moonboard and other system walls as a game-changer

45:16 – Proper nutrition, PhysiVantage, and protein

50:02 – Crush

52:00 – Collagen, and vegan and whey protein

56:48 – How I think about taking supplements, and replacing beer with collagen ;)

1:01:15 – Why we should eat collagen separate from meals (when we can), and collagen vs. protein timing

1:10:42 – A life’s journey

1:14:07 – Gratitude

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core May 31, 2021

Show notes

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.

Discount code:

“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1

Nuggets:

6:01 – Weatherman

11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing

15:18 – The best send conditions

17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge

18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing

21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)

24:29 – Patron Question from Adriel (the early days at the New River Gorge)

27:27 – Favorite first ascents from the New

28:32 – Embracing bolting and sport climbing

34:17 – The style of bolting in the 90s, becoming a student of climbing, and Eric’s first training articles

38:24 – The training paradigm in the 80s (“climber’s don’t train”)

40:56 – Early training experiments, wooden blocks on the rafters, pull-ups for slab climbing, and the revolution of climbing gyms

47:42 – The modern “weekend warrior”

49:13 – Early intuitive training methodologies, and the “shotgun approach” to training

56:17 – Applying the 80/20 rule to training

1:00:21 – The mental side of climbing, and not getting too focused on one training implement

1:07:53 – Patron Question from Matt (the dos and don’ts of hiring a coach)

1:12:33 – A new paradigm in connective tissue training

1:16:40 – The different effects of hangboarding vs. campusing on finger tendons

1:24:33 – How to combine hangboarding and campus boarding to balance performance and resiliency

1:29:53 – Patron Question from Liam (benefits of linear and non-linear programs)

1:34:59 – End range strength, and the 3D chess of coaching

1:41:42 – Core strength, and limiting belief systems

1:47:05 – Deadlifting

1:52:43 – Weighted planks

1:54:31 – Deadlifting + bouldering with small footholds

1:59:16 – Reinventing your training, and sticking with things long enough to see if they work

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser) May 27, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked about how she prepared for the trip, how she and Bree balanced their climbing objectives in Bishop, taking time off, how to ramp back up after hitting a peak performance, planting a garden, and becoming domesticated.

You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 43:03.

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief May 24, 2021

Show notes

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15. We talked about Steve’s background in climbing and how he became interested in training, how he helped me add structure to my Hueco bouldering trip, and the 85% rule.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-maisch

Nuggets:

5:10 – Ballet class

6:20 – Steve’s beginnings in climbing, grad school, training breakthroughs, and first bad finger injury

13:00 – Becoming interested in quantifying training, and observing the elites

16:50 – How Steve and I connected, the Hueco training plan idea, and addressing individual needs in training

23:38 – Climbing strength

26:33 – Underperforming vs overperforming your finger strength

28:53 – The bouldering pyramid

31:40 – The 85% rule, and the strength sweet spot

46:45 – Train your weaknesses and perform in your strengths, and battling Free Willy

51:50 – Breakdown of the Hueco training plan, and antagonist training

59:46 – Scapular lock-offs

1:05:06 – How much we should be climbing, and making sense of different climbing schedules

1:11:25 – Climb more days, or higher intensity?

1:17:38 – Reconciling Daniel on Return of the Sleepwalker

1:20:48 – Efficiency and muscle memory

1:22:18 – The deload week, and getting stronger when we rest

1:26:18 – The key elements of the boulder pyramid

1:29:16 – How to build up the pyramid season after season

1:31:43 – How to maintain bouldering power during a sport climbing phase

1:34:20 – Whether to maintain endurance during a boulder phase

1:38:26 – Gaining endurance through increasing strength

1:40:06 – The plus/minus (+/-) system

1:49:10 – Training on the boards, and designing different workouts

2:00:16 – Balancing training and performing

2:06:51 – The Remond food bank

2:13:14 – Injuries, Steve’s climbing goals, and rebuilding his pyramid

2:19:55 – Preventing injuries, a foundation of lifting, and the benefit of building muscle in the right places

2:26:10 – Gratitude

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature May 17, 2021

Show notes

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar, influential music and books, stories from a brief career in Hollywood, doing the FA of ‘Magic Line’, his non-profit Sacred Rok, daily practices, connecting with Mother Nature, and much more.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ron-kauk

Nuggets:

4:17 – Out of the blue, and reflecting on a life of climbing

8:19 – Sylvester Stallone, Wolfgang Gulich, and a brief career in Hollywood

18:48 – Doubling for Tom Cruise, and working on films in Yosemite

20:14 – “We would do anything to make $1000.”

23:24 – Ron’s first wilderness trip at age 14, and early rock climbing

28:43 – Rattlesnake Ridge

32:33 – Climbing ‘The Nutcracker'

35:17 – Catching rides to Yosemite, and Dale Bards bakery van

38:07 – ‘Outer Limits’ with Bridwell

39:28 – Ron’s first summer in Yosemite, and “all I needed to do was get there.”

42:55 – A day in the life in Camp 4, and climbing The Nose in a day

48:23 – Jimmy Hendrix

52:40 – ‘Midnight Lightning’

57:41 – Playful training, and 100 fingertip pull-ups

1:00:13 – Catching waves, and freeing ‘Astroman’ with John Bachar

1:07:53 – Carlos Casteneda, ‘Tales of Power’, and ’Separate Reality’

1:13:47 – The end of the 70s, ‘To Bolt’, and ‘Magic Line’

1:18:27 – “I am that waterfall.”

1:20:19 – Mother nature, nurture, and becoming better caretakers

1:21:47 – Sacred Rok, and the universe as our university

1:26:15 – Sponsorship and performing

1:29:34 – Ron’s vision for what climbing could be

1:35:44 – Taking time in nature, and getting back to the basics

1:39:45 – Barefoot standing

1:49:12 – Slowing down

1:54:11 – Words from Alan Watts (the climber)

2:03:30 – Questions from Alan

2:12:12 – The photograph

2:15:56 – “We really are all connected.”

2:19:21 – Follow-Up teaser, and show notes

Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser) May 13, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ken Klein from the Climb Strong Team. We talked about Ken’s high school baseball coach, the documentary In Search of Greatness, and the 3 things we should be assessing as climbers.

You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:23:45.

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