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    Business

    The Jewelry District

    A podcast by JCK magazine and JCKonline about industry news, trends, interviews, and more. Hosted by JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and contributor Rob Bates.

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    Latest Episodes:
    Episode 40: Gendered Watches And Lab-Grown Sustainability Mar 16, 2021
    Show notes

    In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk about gender in the watch industry, secondhand jewelry and watches, and a new sustainability certification for diamonds.

    Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob take a second to review this busy month.02:15 Victoria notices the watch industry’s disapproving reaction to the category of women’s watches.09:00 Gendered products are outdated. Rob and Victoria explore how marketing such products has failed.12:13 Secondhand jewelry and watch sites are plentiful. Rob talks about authentication and sustainability.14:35 Rob recently wrote about the language surrounding lab-grown diamonds, and discusses the new criteria a producer must meet to be considered eco-friendly.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    A Busy March It’s mid-March! That means it's daylight saving time. We’ve set our clocks forward in preparation for more hours of sunshine. But that’s not the only marker of time. This time last year, the first COVID-19 lockdowns were just starting across America. We’ve come a long way since then. Another March event? Women’s History Month. And that takes Victoria’s mind to watches.

    Women Aren’t MonolithicVictoria wrote an article for the New York Times for International Women’s Day both this year and last. When she wrote last year’s article, she spoke to Kathleen McGivney, CEO of RedBar Group, who told her there are so many categories for men’s watches, but when it comes to women’s watches, there is just one category. She made the point that women are not monolithic, and the industry has been missing that fact. This year, Hodinkee published a piece making the argument that all watches should be unisex.

    The Failure of Watch AdvertisementsRob says when you go online, watches are advertised as these macho, masculine pieces. Victoria agrees: In advertising aimed toward women, models are scantily dressed and posing in their watches. In advertising aimed toward men, men are skiing, climbing mountains, and using their watches as tools, not just as accessories. Advertising for women just shows how they can be sexier, which doesn’t necessarily reflect what women actually want. The industry's marketing toward women is outdated. In other watch-related news, Rob reports that Hodinkee bought Crown & Caliber, the secondhand watch site. He’s interested in Hodinkee's move from a watch site into the e-commerce realm.

    Secondhand Sites Rob wonders about secondhand watch sites: Are there too many of them? Can the market handle them all? Victoria counters by asking when the jewelry industry will follow suit. Rob points out that the real problem with secondhand jewelry sites is getting the pieces authenticated. eBay is one place trying to grown its certification processes. Rob says people's desire for secondhand jewelry and watches comes from their interest in sustainability.

    Lab-Grown Language On the topic of sustainability and eco-friendliness, Victoria mentions an article Rob recently wrote about lab-grown diamonds and sustainability. Rob explains his article. About two years ago, the FTC started cracking down on language in the lab-grown diamond sphere. The Lab Grown Diamond Council enlisted SCS Global Services to find out what it would actually take to be eco-friendly. This started a movement to develop criteria for companies to meet to be considered eco-friendly. Rob says we still don’t know how much electricity it takes to make lab-grown diamonds, and that data needs to be solidified in order to determine if lab-growns can be carbon neutral. When this is done, certain brands can be set apart from the rest as truly sustainable.


    Episode 39: Guest Alexander Lacik Mar 02, 2021
    Show notes

    In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk with Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora. They discuss how Alexander got into the jewelry industry, the trouble Pandora was having back in 2017 and how the company has been working to recover, and the effect of COVID-19 on its e-commerce business.

    Show Notes00:52 Victoria and Rob introduce guest Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora.04:35 Alexander details the trouble Pandora was in before he came aboard.10:03 Rob asks Alexander why he thinks Pandora charms took off in the first place.11:47 Alexander is asked about the company's efforts to market to Gen Z.13:54 Victoria asks about Pandora’s e-commerce initiatives, and then they talk sustainability.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Introducing Alexander LacikAlexander is the CEO of Pandora. Before moving to Pandora, Alexander worked with a range of brands including Pringles, Vicks, Always, Olay, Pantene, Lysol, Woolite, Head & Shoulders, and more. After moving back to Sweden with his kids, he ended up working with Britex for a while before Pandora knocked on his door. He was excited to work with Pandora because it was an international brand, and he liked working with a company based in a different locale.

    In Hot WaterRob asks Alexander if, since he has worked on so many brands, Pandora is his first that is a discretionary category. Alexander says jewelry is more of a luxury item than other brands he’s served, but marketing any product is similar in some ways. Pandora was having some trouble in 2017, and that’s when it approached Alexander. Pandora's cardinal issue? Fixing its brand relevance as it had lost touch with its core audience. After a study with 30,000 people, Pandora realized product design wasn’t an obstacle. The problem was that the brand had lost a bit of its clarity and needed to redefine what it stood for.

    Standing the Test of TimeRob asks why Pandora took off in the first place, and why its charms continue to strike a chord with people. Alexander clarifies that Pandora did not create the idea of charm bracelets; they’ve been around for thousands of years. He says that it's hard to determine why things become relevant in pop culture, but that marking milestones and celebrations in one’s life with a charm is what really drew people to the company. Now, Alexander says, Pandora is in a much better position than it was two years ago.

    Who’s the Audience?Rob asks if it’s important for Pandora to pull in younger consumers. Alexander says women are the biggest buyers, particularly those between 25 and 40 who have a large disposable income. But he believes that by 2030, 30% of jewelry will be bought by Gen Zers. Pandora is currently working to figure out what the difference is, if any, between marketing to millennials and Gen Zers, while still staying relevant to the market at large.

    E-commerce Solidification and SustainabilityVictoria asks about the impact of COVID-19 on Pandora’s e-commence business. Alexander says the company used to have 16 different e-commerce platforms globally, so the problem that it encountered was that if it wanted to upgrade something, it would have to do it 16 times over. Now, Pandora is working on shrinking the number of e-commerce platforms it has until it gets to one global platform. Victoria asks what issues Alexander is laser-focused on for the future. He says that Pandora wants to be more successful in China. He also thinks the digital transformation we've been seeing will continue. They all finish up the conversation by talking about sustainability: By 2025, Pandora plans to be carbon neutral and working with recycled precious metals.

    (Photo courtesy of Pandora)


    Episode 38: Guest John Ferry Feb 16, 2021
    Show notes

    In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. He'll tell us all about his mining efforts in Madagascar and the beautiful demantoid garnets found there.

    Show Notes00:30 Introducing John Ferry, founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth.06:51 John explains how Prosperity Earth tries to give back to the local community08:17 Victoria asks John to explain the significance of demantoids.12:31 John tells us all about the mine.15:39 Rob questions if mining can have a positive impact on the community in which it occurs.19:03 A few more fun facts about Madagascar.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Introducing John FerryWith most of the Tucson gem shows cancelled, Victoria and Rob will be bringing a little bit of the gem world to you as they introduce their guest, John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. John is based in Greenwich, Conn., while his mining company is based in Madagascar. Originally working on Wall Street, John later turned his entrepreneurial spirit to Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, which he's now visited around 65 times. Starting out with a chocolate and vanilla business, he soon turned his endeavors in Madagascar to mining.

    All About Giving BackJohn says creating prosperity is his No. 1 goal, hence the name of the company. And with that comes a component of giving back to the community. That's done by reinvesting in the people who work for his company and the community in which they work. But giving back also includes an environmental factor. There's a high level of interdependency between the people of Madagascar, the planet, community relations, and environmental development.

    What Are Demantoids?Victoria tells us that she's holding a demantoid garnet of John's and asks him to explain why it's so special. He tells us a demantoid garnet is 10,000 times rarer than a diamond. Its signature features are its fire and brilliance, which John believes make it the most beautiful of all the colored gems. Comparing Madagascan demantoids to ones from Russia, John believes his are better because of their sharp and clean crystallization. Victoria asks John about his deposit supplies in the mine, and Rob asks him about how he plans to get the word out about demantoids.

    Origins Of Madagascan DemantoidsRob asks John how he found out about the mine, how long it took him to get set up, and how deep it is. The mine has been around for about 10 years. John explains how he knew an Italian geologist, Dr. Federico Pezzotta, who stuck with the deposit to study it and establish the potential of the location. Right now, Prosperity Earth is only mining down about 15 to 18 meters-but it should eventually go down to around 200 to 300 meters. Madagascan demantoid is anywhere from 30 to 50% the cost of Russian demantoid. John says he wants to democratize demantoid, making it accessible to designers.

    The Impact Of MiningBeyond the mining level, Prosperity Earth has a 10-plus person gem-cutting team that does precision faceting. The gem-cutting process is responsible for job creation, making Madagascar not just the origin of the rough gem crystal, but also where the value addition takes place. Rob plays devil's advocate and asks if mining can really have a positive impact on local economies. John says yes. But he also differentiates between various types of mining operations. Colored stone mining is a small-scale business, which he says works to give back to the community.

    A Little More About MadagascarRob asks about Madagascar as a developing country, and John explains how per capita GDP works. Victoria then asks where the mine actually is, and we learn that it's in northern Madagascar, across from the famous tourist island of Nosy Be. While John doesn't speak the local language, because it has over 10 dialects, he's been able to pick up some phrases and sentiments. John says it takes him 24 hours door-to-door to travel there. In the U.S., Prosperity Earth is focused on wholesale sales and marketing of demantoids-and he says the company will be present at upcoming trade shows.


    Episode 37: JCK Show, Holiday Report, and De Beers Feb 02, 2021
    Show notes

    In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows in August, Inauguration Day jewelry, and the De Beers Ten/Ten collection.

    Show Notes

    00:30 JCK’s shows have been moved to August: What can we expect?03:20 Pearls are having a moment and really took the spotlight in January.06:58 Rob recaps the holiday reports.09:44 Victoria talks about e-commerce and fun ways to shop digitally in the future.13:56 De Beers recently released its Ten/Ten project, and Victoria dishes about her favorite rings in the collection.17:56 Something unexpected happened in the art deco world at the Paris haute couture showings.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    New Dates for the JCK ShowVictoria and Rob recorded this podcast during the last week of January, and they talk about how long the month felt. They also discuss the overload of webinars and online events they’ve been seeing. Because of so many things being online, Victoria and Rob are viewing the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows now scheduled for August as a welcome break. Victoria predicts pearls will be the strongest category at the shows.

    Why Pearls?Pearls have taken the spotlight so far in 2021. They made a big splash at the inauguration, where Vice President Kamala Harris and many others were seen sporting the opulent beauties. Harris wore a pearl necklace by W.Rosado, but she’s also known to wear black pearls. There was even a Facebook group devoted to wearing pearls in the days before the inauguration. Rob reflects on what Barbara Bush and Nancy Pelosi did for pearls. Rob and Victoria also discuss the jewelry that Amanda Gorman was wearing, and the Rolex that Biden was wearing.

    Holiday ReportsVictoria asks Rob about what he makes of the holiday reports he's seen and what they mean for the state of the industry. There were mixed expectations, and mixed results, but overall Rob thinks the holiday season went pretty well. The season may not have been what retailers hoped for, but it was definitely promising, all things considered. They also reflect on which business practices are probably here to stay in 2021.

    E-commerce in 2021Victoria attended a virtual retail innovation conference by PSFK, a New York–based trend casting agency, and she fills us in on what she learned. One of the things Victoria took away from the conference was that retailers need to make things easier and more accessible for customers, especially at checkout. The conference hosts also spoke about how to get people just as excited to shop in stores as they are to shop online, and there are some interesting ways people have tried to replicate that experience. Rob and Victoria make the case for consumers having fewer choices when shopping versus having unlimited choice.

    De Beers and Ten/TenDe Beers worked with Blue Nile and a collection of 10 designers to create its newest project, Ten/Ten. The designers were chosen to create wedding jewelry that is now being sold on Blue Nile, in a limited collection of 10 rings per designer. All the rings are priced around $4,000, and all the diamonds used were from Botswana. Victoria discusses how engagement rings are changing from something sacred to something that can be switched and upgraded (read: more money over time). Victoria also points out her favorite rings from the collection.

    Paris Couture ShowingsEnding the podcast, Victoria talks about the high jewelry collections from Boucheron and Chanel that were seen at Paris Haute Couture Week. She specifically emphasizes a collection from Boucheron, which put an incredible spin on art deco with geometric shapes. The most interesting thing about it? Boucheron modeled the pieces on men.


    Episode 36: Guest Jeffrey Cohen Jan 21, 2021
    Show notes

    In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’ll tell us how he got into the watch industry; highlight the importance of innovation and a digital-first, data-driven movement; and give his thoughts on the watch industry going into 2021.

    Show Notes00:25 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America.03:34 Jeffrey drives home the importance of the brand itself over country of origin.05:50 2020 forced Jeffrey to become even more digital-first with his brands than ever before.11:17 Disney, Marvel, Frank Sinatra, and the Grammy Awards: Jeffrey shares watch news on all.14:53 Jeffrey reveals what Citizen Watch America's data is saying about its watch brands.19:16 Victoria wonders if trade shows will be returning in the future.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Introducing Jeffrey CohenVictoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’s been in that role for over a decade now, and he oversees not just Citizen Watch America but a total of five brands, including Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant. His father owned a high-end luxury retail store, which first got him interested in watches, and in 1982, he became a regional sales rep at Movado. In 2010, he joined Citizen.

    What’s In A Name? Rob asks about the name Citizen, and Jeffrey explains its importance: having a watch for all people to enjoy. Rob asks if working for a Japanese company is any different from working for an American one. Jeffery says no and emphasizes the importance of the brand over country of origin. He most greatly values innovation, and tells the JCK editors about a watch’s movement that was just 1 mm thick and the innovation that went into creating it.

    Digital-First OperationsJeffrey says that his consumers easily transitioned to online purchasing, but also explains what his company needed more of to make its website work. Victoria also asks about Jeffrey’s direct-to-consumer ambitions, and Jeffrey explains how Citizen has become a digital-first brand. The terminology it uses is "Citizen First," where its consumers get the best experience possible. Jeffrey then explains how he keeps his brands separate.

    Collaboration With Disney and MarvelVictoria asked how the Swiss brands Alpena and Frederique Constant are doing, and Jeffery explains how Alpena and Frederique Constant's independent retailers did very well during the holiday season. Victoria also asks what we can expect to see from Citizen this year. Jeffrey talks about its collaborations with Disney and Marvel, as well as innovation coming out of the Bulova brand and its Frank Sinatra collection. He also discusses the upcoming 2021 Grammy Awards and Citizen's involvement.

    Data, Data, DataJeffrey says Citizen has been using data for years now, but that the pandemic really pushed it to become a digital-first company. CRM is what it primarily uses to create additional sales for the company. Jeffrey says the watch industry's consumer is getting younger, and for Bulova, its Latino community of consumers is growing. Rob then asks about the gray market and how that affects the business.

    Will Trade Shows Return? Victoria asks about what used to be Baselworld and the show model that 2020 disrupted, and if Jeffrey thinks we’ll be returning to that model in the future. Jeffrey says it’s hard to predict when trade shows will be back up and running—but he thinks it’s a question of expense. Rob asks about smartwatches, and Jeffery says that his watches provide style, design, and quality that people are still looking for. They talk a tad about the appearance of a Bulova watch on the popular Netflix show The Queen’s Gambit. And Jeffrey tells us what sold-out watch he’s wearing right now.


    Episode 35: Jewelry Industry Predictions for 2021 Jan 05, 2021
    Show notes

    In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk about the trends in 2020 that will continue into 2021. E-commerce? Probably here to stay. They’ll also be covering a Weird Story of the Week.

    Show Notes

    00:30 Rob and Victoria wish listeners a Happy New Year and pick out what business strategies worked last year that might be here to stay in 2021.03:33 E-commerce looks like it’s here to stay.07:14 Victoria believes jewelry will join watches in the circular economy.13:07 Rob gives us a little insight to the new defense appropriations bill and what it means for the jewelry industry.16:10 Victoria touches on Pantone's Colors of the Year.20:05 This episode’s Weird Story of the Week will make you happy as a clam.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    What We Accomplished in 2020

    Happy New Year! While we're facing plenty of uncertainties going into the new year, Victoria and Rob are hopeful. They acknowledge that we have all learned to embrace e-commerce and digital initiatives, and learned to work on the fly.

    Our Digital Future

    People think the adoption of e-commerce is here to stay. While we likely won't continue to do everything on Zoom, we will certainly keep some operations online, as we’ve learned to adapt to this new technology. Victoria says the circular economy is on her mind as we go into this new year—especially for gold and watches. She anticipates the circular economy will become more looped into e-commerce initiatives.

    The Circular Economy

    While watches have already been a part of the circular economy for some time now, Victoria believes jewelry will be added into the mix soon. Victoria tells us about Omnique, a jewelry site specializing in antique and vintage jewels that's already connecting old jewels to new owners. Rob mentions De Beers experimented with a trade-in service, but ultimately decided that the way to get best value for diamonds was to let consumers auction them online.

    A Move Toward Greater Transparency

    According to the new defense appropriations bill, financial institutions will be required to make their ultimate beneficial owner public. Rob has been listening to podcasts that differentiate the underground or shadow economy from our economy, but he points out that the underground economy is really just a part of our overall economy. Hopefully with this new legislation, there will be more transparency in the jewelry industry.

    Pantone Colors of the Year

    Victoria talks about the Pantone Colors of the Year: Ultimate Grey and Illuminating. While perhaps not the most obvious colors for the jewelry industry, they are bright and optimistic. Victoria ponders how these colors will be incorporated this year, and she suggests a few stones that may hit the mark. On that note, the JCK editors mourn Tucson not being held in 2021.

    Weird Story of the Week

    2020 has come to a close. But don't worry, there's still plenty of weird to go around, and Rob supplies it with a new Weird Story of the Week. Gosman's Fish Market in Montauk, N.Y., offers a great cup of chowder, but you won’t believe what came out of a batch of clams. The cooks over in the market found a massive pearl, at 20 millimeters in diameter.


    Episode 34: Guest Matt Stuller Dec 22, 2020
    Show notes

    In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batestalk with Matt Stuller, founder and CEO of Stuller. They'll be discussing how Matt got his start in the jewelry industry back in high school, his 50-year-old business, and the history of the jewelry industry.

    Show Notes

    00:25 Rob and Victoria introduce Matt Stuller, founder and CEO of Stuller.04:25 Matt explains how his company became one of the first to offer overnight delivery.08:40 Victoria asks Matt what has changed in the industry over the years.12:55 2020 has been quite challenging for the jewelry industry; Matt explains how his business came out OK.18:18 Rob asks about Stuller’s business model; Victoria asks what advice Matt would give to his 19-year-old self.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Introducing Matt StullerVictoria and Rob introduce their guest this week: Matt Stuller, the founder, CEO, and chairman of Stuller, who is calling in from Lafayette, La. Matt chats about how he started his company. Back in high school, he started working for a local retail jeweler. Matt then tells the story of the years that followed, from selling out of the trunk of his car, to becoming a traveling salesman all over the Southeast, to starting his own manufacturing company.

    Overnight Delivery Rob asks Matt about his company's name change, from Stuller Settings to Stuller, in the early 1980s. Matt then explains how he worked with FedEx to become one of the first companies to provide overnight delivery. Stuller really worked to speed up the supply chain in the jewelry industry at a time that it was slow, and Matt worked to make his company one that jewelers saw as reliable.

    Changes in the IndustryVictoria mentions that the Stuller facility is 600,000 square feet—but Matt emphasizes what matters is the service the company provides, and not the size of its building. Victoria then asks what in the industry has changed over the years. Matt says the industry's core value of celebrating life events has remained the same, but he thinks pretty much everything else has changed. He also recalls how jewelry stores used to sell luxury items other than jewelry, such as when Zales sold TVs.

    How 2020 Is Shaping Up Despite A CyberattackVictoria asks who Matt’s most successful customers have been this year. Matt believes the industry did very well as a whole, and that it had many great months in 2020. He also says people have to live with faster changes in our world or their businesses will risk suffering consequences. Matt says Stuller is doing better than it did the previous year, but it’s been the hardest year to date in its 50-year history, and that the worldwide supply change is badly damaged. They also briefly discuss the recent cyberattack on Stuller, but Matt is proud to say that the company was back up and selling in just four days, more quickly than it had anticipated.

    Business Model and Advice Rob asks about Stuller’s business model. Matt says its model of catering wholesale to independent retailers rather than to big accounts has been the same since the company's start in 1970. He emphasizes that he never wanted jewelers to feel like Stuller was their competition. Victoria asks what Matt would tell his 19-year-old self. Rob asks Matt what he sees as being the future of his business.


    Episode 33: Holiday Sales, Online Luxury, Gold Sourcing Dec 09, 2020
    Show notes

    In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Batesdiscuss Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and the upcoming holidays; Amazon battling it out for space in the luxury industry; and responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry.

    Show Notes00:30 Speaking on Cyber Monday, Rob and Victoria begin their discussion of holiday sales.05:15 Victoria dives into how retailers can improve their holiday season.09:58 Amazon has been vying for a spot in the luxury market. What does that mean for other jewelers in the category?15:05 Responsible gold sourcing in the gold watch industry takes the spotlight.22:44 Some companies prefer to keep their gold sourcing hushed, but Rob and Victoria give sources for those that want to do better.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and "Zoom-worthy" JewelryVictoria starts out by reporting on the passing of a beloved member of the jewelry industry, William "Lecil" Henderson of the Henderson Collection, and passes on her deepest condolences to his family and friends. Victoria and Rob then switch topics to talk about Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales, and more holiday sales to come. Rob thinks the forecasts for retailers are pretty good this season, and he tells us why consumers looking for “Zoom-worthy” jewelry could help drive sales—if retailers put in the work.

    A Labor of LoveVictoria picks up the question of how retailers can improve their holiday season sales and says that this is certainly a labor-intensive season for store owners. Some states are still allowing backyard or garden showings, which are intimate jewelry showings that have the potential to be very successful. While wholesale may be down for people like Mark Patterson, a designer in SoCal who Victoria spoke to, his retail has more than doubled for 2020. Rob and Victoria both encourage people to shop local to keep small businesses afloat.

    Amazon, Luxury Jewelry, and e-CommerceVictoria brings up e-commerce in the luxury space, and how it has been really heating up lately. Amazon has been trying to ramp up its luxury offerings, especially luxury fashion. Amazon Fashion is going up against Farfetch—the online luxury platform in which Richemont and Alibaba have invested—and LVMH". In 2020, the online luxury market has gone from taking up just 12% of the luxury market to 23%. Jewelers must have digital operations up to snuff.

    Gold in the Watch IndustryConversations around responsible gold sourcing have amped up because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Victoria recently wrote an article for the New York Times on responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry —which isn’t discussed as often as responsible sourcing in the rest of the jewelry industry. Despite growing consumer demand, Swiss watchmakers haven’t been more transparent about their gold sourcing, nor do they talk about where they get their raw materials from.

    Hushed PracticesRolex is a huge brand in the industry but won’t communicate about its sourcing practices. Rob discusses how recycled gold, while sounding good, may not be the best option either. Victoria and Rob end by giving resources for companies that want to start assessing their supply chain and sourcing their gold responsibly.


    Episode 32: Guest Caryl Capeci Nov 23, 2020
    Show notes

    In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America. She'll be discussing the merger of her company with Hearts on Fire. You'll also hear her talk about what jewelry categories are especially hot right now for independent retailers, and what she fears about the lab-grown diamond industry.

    Show Notes

    00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America06:22 Caryl tells us how she has worked to help the Hearts on Fire brand grow11:35 Chow Tai Fook and Hearts on Fire have joined forces despite their differences, and Caryl explains how16:33 Three categories are doing especially well at independent retailers, and Caryl tells all19:47 Caryl expresses worry over the lab-grown diamond industry

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine

    Show Recap

    Introducing Caryl CapeciVictoria and Rob have Caryl Capeci on as their guest this episode. She’s the CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America, and also does work for Diamonds Do Good. She talks about how she fell into the jewelry industry, starting out at an advertising agency and landing herself on the De Beers account back when they were doing integrated marketing before anyone else was. She also explains why De Beers’ campaigns were so successful.

    Hearts on Fire LegacyCaryl left the De Beers’ account in 1999, and left the industry altogether when she married her husband and they moved to Massachusetts. Hearts on Fire was created in 1996, but Caryl didn't join them until 2007. She describes how she helped to build brand loyalty as they grew Hearts on Fire through connections with sales associates and independent jewelers. Rob asks why Hearts on Fire had more staying power than other brands.

    Marriage of Hearts on Fire and Chow Tai FookHearts on Fire acquired the wholesaler brand Chow Tai Fook in 2014. Victoria asks what kinds of changes Hearts on Fire has implemented during the past six years. Caryl explains that while the two companies are very different, they had a perfect marriage right from the beginning. Hearts on Fire is also selling in China, in 250 stores in the Chow Tai Fook network. Caryl also talks about her stay in Hong Kong at the peak of the country's first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic.

    Categories That WorkRob asks Caryl if she sees any difference in consumer buying habits post—COVID-19. She highlights the fact that people want to give gifts with meaning and of lasting value, as they're especially appreciative of their loved ones and close friends that they haven’t been able to see. She says that watches, classic diamond jewelry, and bridal are three categories that are doing especially well at independent retailers.

    What About Lab-Grown?Victoria asks if the pandemic has reminded people of their community jeweler, and if the support of local retailers will carry through in future years. Caryl says yes. Consumers love the convenience of being able to purchase jewelry locally—if they are able to do research on the purchase beforehand. Victoria also asks about lab-grown diamonds and how she thinks they fit into this space, but Caryl expresses nervousness over the younger consumer target and the effect lab-grown diamonds will have on these younger purchasers 10 to 15 years from now.


    Episode 31: Blue Nile x Lightbox, the Argyle Mines, and NYC's Jewelry Week Nov 10, 2020
    Show notes

    In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the recent announcement that Lightbox will be selling on Blue Nile. They'll also be discussing the closure of the Argyle mine, and New York City’s upcoming Jewelry Week.

    Listen Now[EMBED]

    Show Notes00:00 Rob and Victoria discuss Lightbox and Blue Nile teaming up.04:55 Are lab-grown diamonds just for fashion, or are they fit for bridal wear, too?07:50 The Argyle mines are closing: What that means for the industry.10:00 Colored diamonds were a staple of the Argyle mines. Victoria and Rob talk color variety and nomenclature.16:32 Victoria discusses all the fun to come at the upcoming NYC Jewelry Week.

    Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, ebay.com

    Show Recap

    Blue Nile x LightboxLightbox made a big announcement right at the end of October: It will be selling its product on Blue Nile. When Rob spoke to the CEO of Blue Nile earlier in the year, it seemed like the company was leaning toward partnering with the fashion brand, and now it’s official. This partnership is Blue Nile’s first lab-grown diamond brand. Rob argues that Lightbox, despite all the criticism, is offering a genuine attempt to differentiate themselves in the market of lab-grown diamonds.

    Are Lab-Grown Diamonds for Bridal or Fashion?Even though Lightbox debuted in 2018, Victoria argues that the market for lab-grown diamonds still has such mixed messaging on whether or not the diamonds are up to par with their non-lab-grown counterparts. She recently went to see Mark Patterson, a luxury jeweler, and he told her that his retail business this year is through the roof, and that he had his first bridal lab-grown diamond sales. Despite people starting to buy lab-grown diamonds for bridal wear, Blue Nile and LightBox are still advertising them as just fashion pieces.

    The Closing of the Argyle MinesOn Nov. 3, the Argyle mine in Western Australia closed after 37 years in the business. Victoria asks Rob what he thinks of the closure and what it means for the industry. Rob says that the industry originally viewed what came out of the Argyle mine as inferior, but the mine managed to create a market for middle-class Americans wanting to buy diamonds at a lower price, thereby “democratizing” the market.

    Colored DiamondsThe Argyle mine produced 90% of the world’s pink diamonds, and it also produced champagne and chocolate diamonds. Victoria talks about how the gems get their color. She also mentions the 2.83 ct. violet diamond that graced the cover of the July/August issue of JCK. Rob and Victoria discuss the interesting nomenclature of diamonds out of the Argyle mine and how Argyle worked to differentiate themselves.

    New York City’s Third Annual Jewelry WeekNew York City is holding its third annual jewelry week from Nov. 16 through Nov. 22, and for the first time ever you don’t have to be in New York to attend: This year’s jewelry week is all virtual, with 127 events happening online throughout the week. Victoria talks about “Here We Are,” a category intended to shed light on underrepresented communities in the jewelry industry, specifically people of color, women, and LGBTQIA+ members. Victoria also spoke with De Beers' Sally Morrison, who will be appearing on a sustainability-themed panel discussion, talking about the resilience of the jewelry industry this year.


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