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    Education

    Podcast – SURF MASTERY

    We interview the best surfers in the world and the people behind them, so surfers can learn ways to improve their own surfing. The podcast is targeted to open-minded surfers who want to improve and progress their surfing as well as enhance their surf longevity & health. Each interview will educate the listener on ways to refine and progress their surfing and/or increase their surf longevity.

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    Latest Episodes:
    121 Exploring Surfboards as Tools for Self-Discovery with Donald Brink Jun 16, 2025
    Show notes

    121 Exploring Surfboards as Tools for Self-Discovery with Donald Brink Surf Mastery Podcast Download Is your surfboard truly helping you become a better surfer—or just keeping you comfortable?In this episode, we explore a question that many surfers overlook: are you riding the board that suits your potential or simply what the surf industry has marketed to you? Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned surfer, learning how equipment shapes performance and self-discovery in the water can revolutionize your approach to surfing.Discover why changing boards regularly—even riding the "wrong" board—can massively accelerate your progression.Learn from Donald Brink’s radical experimentation with ultra-narrow surfboards and how it unveiled new layers of wave reading and board control.Understand the deep connection between board design, wave selection, and self-expression that transforms surfing from sport to personal art form.Tune into this eye-opening conversation to challenge what you think you know about surfboards—and uncover the path to becoming the surfer you were meant to be.http://www.brinksurf.comhttps://www.instagram.com/donaldbrink/?hl=enwww.surfmastery.comKey PointsThe importance of the surfing style over the type of surfboard was emphasized, highlighting the value of constantly changing boards to improve one's surfing skills.Donald Brink discussed the benefits of challenging oneself with difficult surfboards to discover deeper aspects of one's surfing and personal growth.The conversation touched on the idea that societal and industry influences might shape people's preferences in surfboards more than personal preference.Donald Brink shared his experience with creating and riding extremely narrow surfboards, which he found to be a profound and enlightening exercise in understanding his own surfing and design principles.The dimensions and unique features of Donald Brink's narrow surfboards were discussed, including the challenges and learnings from riding them.Donald Brink mentioned that Dane, a fellow surfer, showed interest in and eventually rode one of his narrow surfboards, taking it on a memorable trip to Iceland.The discussion explored the combination of narrowness with modern materials and design elements in surfboards, a concept Donald Brink is pioneering.The potential of narrow surfboards in wave pools was considered, with the suggestion that they could offer unique and advantageous surfing experiences. OutlineSurfing Philosophy and Personal GrowthDonald Brink emphasizes that the way one surfs is more important than the type of surfboard used.Donald discusses the value of constantly changing surfboards to challenge oneself and improve surfing skills.Donald shares personal experiences of riding very narrow and difficult-to-ride surfboards to discover more about oneself and improve surfing technique.Surfboard Design and PreferencesDonald and Michael discuss the influence of the surf industry on surfboard preferences, comparing it to the standardization of the Fender Stratocaster in the music industry.They debate whether surfboard preferences are truly personal or influenced by societal and industry standards.Donald mentions that professionals often use different types of surfboards outside of competition, indicating a divergence from industry-driven preferences.Challenges and Learning Through SurfingDonald explains the benefits of riding difficult surfboards, even in challenging conditions, to gain deeper insights into one's surfing abilities and improve overall technique.He discusses the importance of recognizing one's limitations and frustrations as a means to identify areas for improvement.Donald shares his experience of building and riding extremely narrow surfboards, which he found to be a humbling and enlightening exercise.Surfboard Specifications and DesignDonald details the specifications of the narrow surfboards he has designed, including dimensions and unique design elements.He discusses the challenges and learnings from riding these boards, including the need for more rocker due to their narrowness.Donald mentions the interest of other surfers, like Dane, in trying these unique boards and the feedback received.Surfing as Art or SportThe conversation touches on the philosophical question of whether surfing is an art, a sport, or both, with a promise to delve deeper into this topic in a future episode.Transcription:Donald Brink Really, it's the way you surf is more important than what you ride. And so if you constantly change out your craft and realize that the common element or the common variable is your surfing, which hopefully is developing day by day with intrigue and aspiration, your surfing, you start to realize... I made these very narrow boards that were incredibly difficult to ride, and I rode them in—I don't like to call waves bad—but in very challenging conditions. And I fell in love with them. And the puzzle was complex, and yet it showed me so many...Michael Frampton Welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. That was two quotes from part one of a long conversation I had with Donald Brink. Part two will be published next week. This will be Donald's third appearance on the podcast, first back in episode 42 and episode 76. So if you enjoy this and you want to go back, those are the numbers. I reached out to Donald to discuss, is surfing an art or a sport? And that will be in part two. It's an hour-long deep dive into that. But the first sort of 25 minutes of that conversation was a good catch-up and a dive into what Donald has been up to since we last spoke. And of course, his deep and philosophical thoughts about surfing and surfboard design. And as with every conversation with Donald, there's so many gold nuggets in here. Donald is a great thinker and an incredible surfboard shaper and designer. You can check out more from Donald at brinksurf.com—it's b-r-i-n-k surf.com—and of course at Donald Brink on Instagram. Did you hear the one with Aaron James?Donald Brink Another—okay—must have been.Michael Frampton Aaron James, episode 111 I think. The audio quality wasn't great from his end, but it's worth a listen because you'd love it. He's a philosopher and we just talked at the, you know, all about philosophy.Donald Brink You've interviewed him before? No? Okay.Michael Frampton Right?Donald Brink I remember there was somebody on philosophy. I'll look forward to that. The last one that comes to mind that I'm just remembering, maybe I'm missing one or two, but it was you discussing the timing of entering waves, jumping onto the board rather than paddling into it, and you realize they can push and pull that bandwidth of when you're actually taking off on the wave. I thought that was—I'd never heard it. It was just a passing comment to you, but I gleaned from that. I was like, it's really interesting to do that, to stand in the shallows and not paddle for waves as part of wave training.Michael Frampton For beginners, yeah. Whenever I take a beginner out, I say, what are you paddling for? You're standing in waist-deep water. Just jump because the wave's going so slow. If you wait till the wave hits the back of your board and you just jump forward a little bit, you're trimming and then you can—you don't have to paddle. That's how my kids play and naturally catch waves just by playing. And it takes the pressure off having to paddle. Because everyone, you know, that's the first thing that beginners complain: "My arms are so tired." And it's, well, save your arms for the pop-up.Donald Brink Right. Yeah. I've been spending a little bit of time and sat some lectures with Rob Case, the surf paddling instructor. And I'm sure you guys all know his work. And if you haven't looked at it, I would encourage one to explore that because most of surfing really is paddling. Yeah. And he's the specialist in the paddling field. And the short story is, it was just like being able to ask him questions. And what they tap into is intuition of what they've learned, both in formal study and in the hypothesis of studying what's actually going on when we are paddling or taking off on a wave in particular. And surfboards are very inefficient at moving across or through—generally rather—in water. And yeah, just like the studies just show how radical it is going from submerged to now planing and therefore now standing and then surfing. We're swimming at best for most of the time.Michael Frampton I know. Yeah, I've had Rob on the show a few times and I've done his course. It was amazing. But that's why I surf a boat nowadays. It's easier.Donald Brink Love you. Yeah, it's... There's nothing wrong with that, and I still think surfing comes down to preference. And it's a word someone used in the water one day. You know, like some people ask you stuff in the water. It happens to me now and again. I try and be, like, not rude, but really hyper-focused. And somebody said, "What are you riding today?" And it was actually a very traditional-looking board, which they were surprised at. Because I've been known to ride—I'm always testing and trying new things, right? And I was like, yeah, it's just really good to palate cleanse and ride a standard shortboard from time to time. And I do it because it keeps my surfing honest and my design mind honest to be like, well, this is supposed to work. Most people prefer this and I know you can get it. And it's—sometimes I didn't make that board. So there's zero judgment on what I could or should have done. And they were like, yep, that's really good. It's nice that you're doing that. I think it's a good responsibility. At the end of the day, it's just down to preference. Everyone knows what they prefer in a board. They usually don't know what they need. And it hit me, like, really hard—that statement. I was like, this really is down to preference. Like there's no... There's things I know that I like in a board and you don't really want to impose that onto other people as a suggestion, even at times.Michael Frampton But do you think that is really people's preference? I don't. Because I think we chatted last time. It's like the Fender Strat is like people's preference in guitar. Well, that's only because it happens to be first. It was like the first guitar that was really well made and all the studio musicians used it. And then it became a standard. Whereas with surfboards, I think it's just—that's just what the surf industry pushed on people. And that's what the pros were riding. I don't know if it's a preference because of society or whether it's an actual literal preference. And I saw Steph Gilmore in the water surfing good waves. She wasn't on a performance shortboard. She was on a fish. And then when you see pros outside of competition, they're not usually on performance shortboards.Donald Brink This is a great point, and I think you're right. And I think that preference could be perceived as being accepted. So this person's comment—and I know this guy fairly well—he doesn't want to be seen on anything else. So he would prefer to endear a Stratocaster on stage in this example, right? And yet a hollow-bodied Telecaster might be better for what they're playing. And that's a great point because, yeah, that's what we've been marketed to and that's what the biggest companies are consistently marketing or manufacturing, right? It's still a valid point though because what he prefers is important to him. And that's where your surfing is your own. And that's both the biggest blessing and comes with a huge responsibility if you want to cultivate it. And once you realize it's up to you, as long as you're not in anyone's way, you can have a lot of fun in the sea. That's the golden rule and it's taken years to really get as succinct as that—like, be in the right part of the wave doing the right thing and not being in anyone's way—and you are welcome. Fish.Michael Frampton Amphibian, say.Donald Brink Should I?Michael Frampton Yeah, no, I agree with all of that. I do think it's a little bit short-sighted when you see people, if their preference comes from the surf industry or whatever. They just maybe haven't thought it through. Hey look, I'll put my hand up. When it's six foot and barreling, yeah, I want to be on a performance shortboard. The rocker fits the wave. I'm more likely to come out of a barrel, of course. But how often is the surf like that, really?Donald Brink Right.Michael Frampton So it's—Donald Brink Okay, let's expand this conversation then to... Is it worth trying to ride something that's really difficult to ride? Because I see most people only riding things that are easier to ride. Ciao. I challenge myself to ride very difficult surfboards sometimes. And I don't have as good a session. But because my surfing is my own and what I'm getting out of it is what I'm willing to get out of it. And sometimes you go really deep in trying to find... Parts of yourself, really. Or parts of the wave that then bring out these joys that you've been searching for. So when the waves are good, it's like, are you willing to waste good waves trying to ride something different? And it could be to prove a point. Well, that's now a little immature, but if it's at the expense of searching the depths of oneself within surfing, I find that very interesting and not often seen, shown, or even talked about. And I do think it's a developing category of what surfing is to somebody. Because it's... it's yours to yourself. Okay.Michael Frampton Yes, you're right. I mean, if you want to take even a small-wave performance shortboard out when the waves aren't great—and maybe you'd have more fun and catch more waves on a hybrid or a fish—you want to go out there and challenge yourself and keep the board on rail and... yeah. I mean, that kind of board, almost if you're planing and going straight, it's going to slow down and you're going to bog. But if you're staying close to the whitewater and surfing rail to rail, you're going to have... find that feeling. There is a thing—there's a detail that you've got to realize, listeners—is you might go down to Lower Trestles, let's say, for example, and let's say it's shoulder-high Lower Trestles. You're going to—it might look like a slow, soft wave. But the way that the water is drawing off the bottom, the way the current and the bathymetry, the way that the swell angles in towards you a little bit actually makes the wave a lot more rippable than it looks. But if you were to go down to San O or Doheny and the waves are bigger, that might look more powerful from the beach, but you're going to—and you take the same board out—you're going to find it a lot harder to surf a bigger wave at a softer break than you would a smaller wave at a more rippable break. So learning to look at those details of the refraction of the swell, the way that water's drawing off the bottom, will help you choose what sort of surfboard to take out as well. So there's a fine line between... what's your skill level, what's the wave like, what are your intentions to the way to surf. But I agree with you. If you want to challenge yourself and become a better surfer, yeah. A board with a bit more rocker is going to force you to—it only really works if it's transitioning from rail to rail.Donald Brink Well, that's on…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    120 Still Ripping at 60: Tony Roberts on Surfing Performance and Longevity Jun 05, 2025
    Show notes

    120 Still Ripping at 60: Tony Roberts on Surfing Performance and Longevity Surf Mastery Podcast What if your best surfing is still ahead of you—even in your sixties?Many surfers fear they’ll lose their edge with age, but Tony Roberts proves that it’s possible to surf better than ever through intentional lifestyle choices, foundational training, and a lifelong commitment to progression. In this episode, we explore how rethinking surfing as a sport, not just a pastime, can lead to lasting performance and deeper fulfillment.Learn why starting with longboarding could be the single best thing you do for your shortboard technique.Discover how the right mindset between sets—using mantras and mindfulness—can transform your in-wave performance.Get inspired by Tony’s radically focused lifestyle design, optimized entirely around surfing longevity and peak performance.Hit play now to uncover how Tony Roberts has redefined aging through surfing—and how you can too.Tony’s Website etc:https://trsurftrips.com/home/http://www.youtube.com/@RealSurfStorieshttps://www.instagram.com/trsurfing/?hl=enTony on Surf Splendor Podcast:https://surfsplendorpodcast.com/025-tony-roberts/Episode Music:https://www.instagram.com/tuanizmusic/?hl=enKey PointsTony Roberts views his relationship with the ocean as the focus of his life, aiming to maximize enjoyment and performance in surfing.Tony Roberts' passion for surfing began at age eight, learning to surf in beginner-friendly waves at Capitola, California, and progressing to more challenging waves.Tony Roberts' passion and skill in surfing were significantly shaped by learning to surf in beginner-friendly waves with proper technique at a young age.Tony Roberts' desire to be a better surfer was cultivated through skateboarding, where he could quantify his progression and was mentored by top skaters who were also great surfers.Tony Roberts sees surfing as a sport, influenced by his skateboarding background, despite the artistic elements it possesses, and focuses on performance and technique.Tony Roberts believes that learning traditional longboarding in his forties significantly improved his shortboarding by enhancing his foundational surfing skills.Tony Roberts advises beginners to approach surfing with self-respect, starting with a beginner board in beginner waves and mastering each step before progressing, to avoid surfing like a 'kook'.Tony Roberts attributes his longevity and performance in surfing to his 100% commitment to the sport, including lifestyle choices that support his surfing goals, and not compromising for other priorities.Tony Roberts' surf trips offer personalized packages to the best waves in Central America and the Caribbean, including filming, coaching, and creating trip movies for participants.Tony Roberts runs two YouTube channels, 'Real Surf Stories' and 'Real Skate Stories', to celebrate the legacies of great surfers and skateboarders and inspire others with their stories. OutlineTony Roberts' Relationship with SurfingTony Roberts' relationship with the ocean is the focus of their life, aiming to maximize enjoyment and performance in the ocean.Surfing has been a consistent focus throughout Tony's life, from filmmaking and photography centered around surfing and skateboarding to the act of surfing itself.Tony's passion for surfing started at the age of eight, growing up in Capitola, California, which provided ideal beginner spots for learning.Tony's progression in surfing was significantly influenced by skateboarding, particularly at Skatepark Soquel, where they were mentored by Kevin Reed.Tony's desire to surf faster and bigger waves was inspired by surf movies featuring surfers like Jerry Lopez and Reno Abellira.Tony approached surfing as a sport rather than an art, influenced by the skateboarding culture of the 70s.Tony's perspective on surfing as a sport has not changed, even though they appreciate the artistic aspects of traditional longboarding.Tony's foundation in surfing improved significantly when they started longboarding in their forties, enhancing their bottom turns, trim, and board speed.Tony emphasizes the importance of learning to surf on a longboard before transitioning to a shortboard, highlighting the benefits of core strength and proper technique.Tony advises beginners to approach surfing with self-respect, starting with a beginner board in beginner waves and mastering each step before progressing.Tony believes that skipping steps in the learning process leads to surfing like a 'kook' and emphasizes the importance of learning on a longer board for good style.Tony uses mantras like 'crisp takeoff' and 'form' to maintain performance and focus during surfing sessions.Surfing as Art vs. SportTony Roberts views surfing primarily as a sport, influenced by their skateboarding background, focusing on performance and technique.Tony acknowledges the artistic elements in surfing, particularly in the way surfers approach waves and the fluidity of their movements.Michael Frampton sees surfing as bridging the gap between sport and art, emphasizing rhythm, timing, and technique.Tony agrees that surfing can be both an art and a sport, requiring a free-flowing and not mechanical approach to look good.Training and Lifestyle for SurfingTony Roberts emphasizes the importance of a holistic approach to training and lifestyle to improve surfing, including gym workouts, diet, spiritual development, and yoga.Tony believes that yoga is the best workout for surfers, balancing the body and compensating for the unbalanced workout surfing provides.Tony's commitment to surfing influences every decision in their life, including diet, relationships, and work, prioritizing surfing above all.Tony raised their daughter with a focus on surfing, providing an international and universal education that has made her an inspirational adult.Tony's lifestyle, centered around surfing, has led to a fulfilling relationship with the ocean and a strong bond with their daughter.Surfing Techniques and MindsetTony Roberts highlights the importance of a 'crisp takeoff' in surfing, defined as a perfect pop-up from hands to feet in a millisecond.Tony emphasizes the significance of timing in surfing, distinguishing between quick and fast movements.Tony advises maintaining focus and using techniques like concentrating on breath, returning to the present moment, and visualizing maneuvers to enhance performance.Tony uses mantras and visualization to stay focused and adaptable when surfing, inspired by Kelly Slater's approach to reading waves.Tony Roberts' Surf Trips and YouTube ChannelsTony Roberts offers surf trip packages through their website TRSurfTrips.com, providing personalized trips to the best waves in Central America and the Caribbean.Tony's surf trips include transport, accommodation, filming of participants' waves, and optional coaching, culminating in a trip movie edit as a souvenir.Tony has two YouTube channels, 'Real Surf Stories' and 'Real Skate Stories', dedicated to celebrating the legacies of great surfers and skateboarders.Tony's YouTube channels allow them to utilize their filmmaking skills and share inspiring stories from the surfing and skateboarding communities.Transcript:Michael Frampton: All right. Well, welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. Stoked to have you on board. And I'll just do a quick intro and then we'll get into it. , Tony spent the first little chapter of his adult life as a pioneer in the filmmaking and photography surf industry. And then the second chapter of your life, let's call it, you, dedicated yourself to becoming a better surfer into you're now in your sixties now and surfing better than ever., You almost epitomized the ethos of this show. And my first question, Tony, is describe to me in the listener , your current relationship with the ocean, how it's evolved recently, and what has remained consistent.Tony Roberts: My current relationship with the Ocean is. The focus of my life. [00:01:00] So that means everything that I do is in an effort to maximize my enjoyment and performance in the ocean. , What has remained consistent is that the ocean has been the focus, whether it was, as you said in the first chapter of my life, which was, or the first half of my life I should say, which was filmmaking and photography, which was centered around shooting, surfing and skateboarding, which is kind of the roots of that goes back to the ocean.Then the last half of my life has been about actually the act of surfing. So all the land stuff I still skateboard. The [00:02:00] skateboarding, the training, the nutrition, the mental and physical flexibility is for the surfing. Michael Frampton: Wow. So surfing in the ocean has remained consistent. Where, when did that passion start?Tony Roberts: When I was eight years old, I was very fortunate that I was raised right on the sand in Capitola, California, which is on the very, very inside of the Monterey Bay. So it has all these perfect little grom spots. So it's the perfect place to learn how to surf. And then as you go up the coast north. You have point break after point break after point break that gets bigger and more exposed to swells.So it was just the ideal learning ladder to climb. It went from capitola to trees to privates, to sharks cove to the hook [00:03:00] to pleasure point to the west side of Santa Cruz, steamer Lane, Stockton Avenue, and then up the coast, which is open ocean. So you have Wadel Creek, Scots Creek, and then started traveling to Hawaii, Australia, Indonesia, Peru, and the whole world.Michael Frampton: . That's interesting. It's, it's a common thread with a lot of great surfers is they were exposed to good beginner waves very early on in life. Do, do you think that really did shape your surfing passion? That, that, uh, we'll call it a gentle, gentle, or appropriate introduction to surfing at the right age?Tony Roberts: A hundred percent. Not only did it form my passion, because I saw all these people that were surfing and skateboarding, and this was the seventies, so it was right in the middle of the hippie era. So it was these free and free love. My parents were hippies, and so I, I saw the passion around me and was able [00:04:00] to really have that injected into my early persona.But more than that, I think the technique of learning at a beginner spot, where ideally if you're gonna learn to surf, it's at a young age, and at any age it should be on a slow rolling wave with a big board. So you can learn the basics and the trim and the core strength before you have a short board.And you're, I. Able to learn proper technique. So yes, growing up in a beginner friendly zone and being able to graduate up was crucial in my not only passion but skill. Michael Frampton: . Once you'd sort of clicked onto surfing and were surrounded by better surfers and better waves, was the desire to, [00:05:00] to be one of the better surfers?Was that, how did that form Tony Roberts: Yes, absolutely that was really cultivated skateboarding because at Skate Park So Cal, which was close to my house, I was able to really quantify my progression. Whereas surfing, that's kind of hard to do, but a lot of the best skaters. Skate parks, So Cal were of course great surfers.In particular, Kevin Reed, the guy who invented the aerial surfing was a pro surfer. Pro skateboarder, and he mentored me. So as a young kid, I was able to look at this amazing surfer, skateboarder and really quantify my progression. So I really wanted to be progressing and I wanted to be [00:06:00] the best guy for my age, and I wanted to win contests, surfing and skateboarding.And I wanted to be able to surf the waves that I saw in the magazine. So that desire for progression was planted very early. Michael Frampton: Was a big part of that. A desire to be able to surf faster and bigger waves. Tony Roberts: Absolutely, we'd go to the surf movies and it was all about Jerry Lopez, Reno. Avalara getting goosebumps right now.The, the big movie, you know, with the, with the soundtrack and, and the dramatic narration. It, it just got into your bones, it got into your blood. And I saw those waves and I wanted to surf 'em so bad. But also in the seventies, of course, it was the busting down the door era. And my friends were just all about [00:07:00] bk., James Jones. Uh, Rory Russell. But in reality, for me, it was all about Rabbit. Pt. Mp. I was really attracted to Australia, and as a very young kid, I knew. When I got the chance I was going to surf Kira Burley heads, and that was really my dream. So my entire youth surfing was working towards that. Michael Frampton: More performance surfing rather than big wave surfing.., Back then, particularly did you approach surfing as a sport or an artTony Roberts: as a sport, which didn't really exist yet? It was still very much [00:08:00] so. The, the flow and the hippie aspect of surfing, that's what was in the magazines. Hmm. And a surf photo it in the seventies was the wave. A surfer was a detail, but skateboarding was different. There was a lot of fisheye, close photos in the skateboard magazines where the action was the entire photo and the bowl or the ramp was a mere detail in the background.And I was so influenced on the skateboarding end of things because I was 50 50 my whole life. And so I wanted to perform. I wanted those repetitions and so much so that surfing as a youth, if I didn't get a lot of waves, I would come in unsatisfied and go skate to be able [00:09:00] to fulfill that, that desire to be complete.And so I think that it was very much a sport. For me personally in the age of it being an art. Michael Frampton: Interesting. And has that changed? Do you still, do you see it as more of an art now?Tony Roberts: No, not at all. It hasn't changed. Um, what has changed is that I love to ride traditional longboards. I love to ride single fins. I love to do a style of surfing that's very artistic, but it's in a process of becoming a more complete surfer. And I feel that those styles of surfing are incredibly technical in a different way.But having done airs [00:10:00] surfing my entire life, starting when I was pre-teen and getting to a stage to where in my forties, wanting to learn traditional longboarding for the first time, I. And so I'm more driven to be a complete surfer and be as good of a surfer as I can be. It gets more intense as the years go on.Michael Frampton: , Interesting. How did, you mentioned, uh, when you started, you started longboarding in your forties. How did that change or influence your shortboarding?Tony Roberts: Wow. I, I have to say it was probably the most important thing I've ever done. , As my foundation became so much [00:11:00] better, my bottom turns trim, board speed, and I was very fortunate in that I was living in Costa Rica at the time. And a friend of mine, Chris Klo, started bringing down the best traditional longboarders in the world who were young guys, Alex Nost, Jared, Mel, Tyler Warren.And when I saw those guys surf, I had a revelation and said, wow, I really want to learn to do this. And, uh, so I got to hang out with these guys, buy boards from them, learn to longboard surfing with them, and actively ask them, what am I doing wrong? How can I improve? And so they very transparently told me what I was doing wrong, what I was doing good.[00:12:00] And that clinic of foundational surfing helped my shortboarding. By leaps and bounds. Michael Frampton: . Wow. Yeah. Yeah. I, I, I agree. I've interviewed Bud Freis probably six or seven years ago, and that was one of his tips is to get a big old log and learn how to longboard best thing you can do for your…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    119: One Wave Is Enough Jun 03, 2025
    Show notes
    119 One Wave Is Enough: The Surfer’s Guide to Managing Expectations Surf Mastery Podcast

    Do you walk away from surf sessions frustrated—even when the waves were decent?

    In this episode, we dive into a powerful mindset shift that helps surfers of all levels enjoy every session—no matter the conditions. Whether you're chasing the dream swell or just trying to improve, managing your expectations could be the key to unlocking more joy and better performance in the water.

    • Learn how unmet expectations quietly sabotage your surfing experience

    • Discover the surprising benefits of aiming for "just one wave"

    • Hear real-world examples of how this mindset frees surfers and boosts performance

    Hit play now to learn how a small mindset shift can help you catch more waves, feel more stoke, and surf with more ease.

    Key Points

    • Introduction of the podcast discussing the importance of managing expectations in surfing.

    • Discussion on the emotional impact of unmet expectations when surfing, emphasizing the role of expectations in creating disappointment or elation.

    • Suggestion to lower expectations, particularly around surf conditions, and adopt a mindset of aiming to catch just one wave as a strategy to enhance enjoyment and reduce frustration.

    • Personal anecdote illustrating the effectiveness of managing expectations by aiming to catch just one wave, even in challenging conditions.

    • Observation that setting low expectations, such as catching one wave, leads to greater enjoyment and improved performance in surfing.

    • Encouragement for listeners to try setting their expectation to catch just one wave during their next surf session to experience the benefits of managing expectations.

    Outline

    Managing Expectations in Surfing

    • Michael Frampton, the host of the Surf Mastery Podcast, discusses the importance of managing expectations in surfing.

    • Michael shares personal experiences of arriving at the beach with high expectations based on forecasts, only to find the conditions different than expected.

    • The emotional swings experienced by surfers are often due to unmet expectations rather than the surf conditions themselves.

    • Michael suggests setting low expectations, such as aiming to catch just one wave, to enhance the surfing experience.

    • By lowering expectations, surfers can focus more on the enjoyment of being in the ocean rather than the number of waves caught.

    • Michael recounts a recent surf where, despite challenging conditions, catching just one wave made the experience rewarding.

    • Michael has shared this 'one wave' approach with clients, who have reported increased enjoyment and improved performance in the water.

    • The approach encourages surfers to appreciate the waves they catch more, regardless of the conditions.

    • Michael challenges listeners to try setting their expectation to catch just one wave on their next surf.

    • For those interested in exploring this philosophy further, Michael recommends visiting surfmastery.com to download the e-book, The Philosophy of Surfing.

    Transcription:

    Welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. The show that helps passionate, lifelong surfers to catch more waves, surf with more speed, style, and grace, building wisdom and confidence in the water. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and today's episode is all about managing expectations in surfing. Now, we've all had the experience of turning up to the beach and expecting it to be four foot and offshore because that's what the forecast promised. But then when we arrive, it's two foot and onshore. That familiar feeling of disappointment sets in. And of course, the opposite is true. The forecast says it's going to be two foot and onshore, but we decide to go for a surf anyway. And when we get there, it's four foot and clean, and suddenly... you are elated. Now, these emotional swings aren't actually caused by the surf itself. It's caused by your expectations.

    So it actually makes sense to lower your expectations, especially around conditions. For example, if your expectation is that it's surfable, that's a pretty low bar. Combine that with the mindset of "I'm going to catch one wave," and you've set a low bar that's actually empowering and realistic. Most frustration, anger, and disappointment in the surf comes from these unmet expectations. If you expect to catch ten waves but only get three, you will likely walk away frustrated. Because what happens then is, instead of you focusing on the enjoyment of the experience of being in the ocean and riding three waves, you chose to focus on the seven waves that you didn't get.

    And lately, I've been practicing this idea. And when I paddle out, my goal is to catch one wave, no matter what the surf is like. A couple of weeks ago, I drove out to the beach for a surf and the only expectation I had was that it was going to be surfable. Had boards in the car ready for any type of condition, as always. And then, when I turned up, it looked like it was pumping. It was well overhead. There were heaps of waves coming through. There were plenty of surfers out, but there were plenty of waves as well.

    And I sort of felt like I should higher my expectations. But I managed them in the moment and I thought, no, I'm just going to suit up, paddle out, and catch one wave. Go from there. And then, as I was suiting up, I was watching the surf, and I sort of realized, man, people aren't really catching these waves. There's a lot of paddling for waves happening, but no one was really catching them. I wasn't quite sure why when I was suiting up. But when I got out, when I managed to paddle out the back, I realized, man, it's actually really hard to catch these waves. There was a lot of water moving. There was a lot of backwash and secondary swells.

    So it was really tricky to get into these waves. And most of the surfers out there were pretty frustrated with it. Because I suspect they had seen the surf look like it was pumping, and they paddled out with all these expectations of catching some of these waves. And not many people were. And the ones that were catching were just really bumpy and there wasn't much good quality surfing going on. It took me forty minutes to catch one wave, but that one wave made my day. That's because I'd kept my expectations low.

    I've been sharing these thoughts with clients recently as well. And a few clients have adopted this "just one wave" approach, and it's taken the pressure off their surfing. They're enjoying surfing more, feeling freer in the water. Ironically, they're actually surfing better as a result. It tends to be what happens. Because, when the example I gave—when the waves, they look good but they aren't, which happens a lot—and it takes you ages to even get one, where you've met your expectation, you actually appreciate that one wave a lot more. But if I had paddled out there and caught that one wave in the first five minutes, then I got another, another thirty-five minutes of time up my sleeve. And if you end up catching two, that's double your expectations. And of course, I've had surfs recently where I've paddled out expecting to catch one and caught twenty. Just makes you enjoy surfing so much more.

    So, listener, here's the challenge. Next time you go surfing, set your expectation to just catching one wave. Try it. Feel it out. See what happens. If you enjoyed this philosophical approach to surfing and you want to go deeper, head over to surfmastery.com and grab a copy of the e-book The Philosophy of Surfing. It's available now for about the price of a cup of coffee. The link is in the show notes. And as always, thanks for listening. Keep surfing.

    119 One Wave Is Enough: The Surfer’s Guide to Managing Expectations

    For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.


      118 Joel Timmons on Surfing, Songwriting, and Soulful Journeys May 02, 2025
    Show notes

    118 Joel Timmons on Surfing, Songwriting, and Soulful Journeys Surf Mastery Podcast Download Joel Timmons on Surfing, Songwriting, and Soulful JourneysIf you’ve ever found yourself seeking balance between creativity and passion, or wondering how to turn life's challenges into powerful art, this episode is your invitation to explore that path. Joel Timmons, musician and lifelong surfer, shares how his emotional songwriting and connection to the ocean fuel each other—and how vulnerability, self-work, and rhythm tie it all together.Discover the deeply personal story behind Joel’s standout track “Say It To My Face” and the emotional reconciliation that followed.Learn how Joel’s journey from coastal South Carolina to Nashville—and back again—influenced the sound and soul of his new album.Find out why both music and surfing are lifelong pursuits of flow, mastery, and humble progression—whether you're in the studio or in the lineup.Tap play now to hear Joel’s heartfelt journey through music, surf, recovery, and rediscovery—and why he’d pick a surfboard over a guitar if he had to choose.https://open.spotify.com/artist/40Gd49hHE75WtRiqYGGhGj?si=_WNyIrmQQLG7n77zxft70Ahttps://www.joeltimmons.comhttps://www.instagram.com/joeltimmonsmusic/Episode music: “Say it to my face” - Joel TimmonsKey PointsSurfing and songwriting, as activities that challenge individuals to be in the moment and focused on their immediate surroundings and tasks, are often pursued for personal joy and expression rather than financial gain.Joel Timmons discusses how songwriting serves as a therapeutic tool for self-expression and personal growth, often stemming from a kernel of pain or question that needs articulation.Joel Timmons started surfing at age 13 after moving back to Sullivan's Island, South Carolina, from Louisiana, where he began by riding boogie boards and small styrofoam surfboards.Joel Timmons identifies as a musician who surfs, valuing both activities for their continuous learning and improvement aspects, and notes that both can be pursued regardless of professional success.Joel Timmons emphasizes the importance of being fully invested and present during performances, noting that this genuine engagement tends to resonate more with audiences.Joel Timmons reflects on his early musical influences, including his parents, Led Zeppelin, and the music education he received through choir and band programs, as well as informal jam sessions with friends.Joel Timmons spent five years living in Nashville, which significantly influenced his musical development, particularly in songwriting and the incorporation of fiddle and pedal steel sounds into his music.Joel Timmons' decision to pursue music professionally was solidified after a life-changing trip around the world, despite facing significant health challenges upon his return.Joel Timmons discusses the impact of AI on the music industry, expressing both fascination and concern, and highlights the irreplaceable value of live, person-to-person musical experiences.Joel Timmons admires Tom Petty's songwriting and artistry, recalling an early concert experience and the influence of Petty's work on his own musical journey. OutlineJoel Timmons' Background and InterestsJoel Timmons is a surfer and songwriter from Sullivan's Island, South Carolina.Joel grew up with a deep connection to both music and the ocean.Joel considers themself a musician who surfs, rather than a surfer who plays music.Joel owns upwards of 15-20 guitars and half a dozen surfboards.Joel's favorite surfboard is a 9-3 single fin classic longboard.Joel's New Album and Songwriting ProcessJoel's new album is called Psychedelic Surf Country.The song Say It To My Face is Joel's favorite from the album.Joel finds songwriting to be a therapeutic and cathartic process.Joel wrote Say It To My Face during a period of personal growth and reconciliation with a friend.Joel did not release Say It To My Face as a single, which may explain why it is not as popular as other songs on the album.Surfing and Music as Lifelong PursuitsBoth surfing and music are lifelong pursuits for Joel.Joel sees synergies between surfing and music, such as the long arc of the journey and the joy of expression.Joel believes that most people who surf or make music do it for the right reasons, not just for money.Joel finds that performing from a place of authenticity and passion resonates most with audiences.Joel's Musical Influences and DevelopmentJoel's parents and early musical memories influenced their musical development.Joel's biggest musical influence is Led Zeppelin.Joel's first concert was seeing Aerosmith in seventh grade.Joel's first song was a melodramatic piece about misery, inspired by bands like Blind Melon and Smashing Pumpkins.Joel's songwriting was influenced by John Prine, whose plain spoken delivery and empathy resonated with Joel.Joel's Time in NashvilleJoel lived in Nashville for about five years, which was important for their musical development.In Nashville, Joel fell in love with fiddle and pedal steel sounds and became more serious about songwriting and storytelling.Joel met many talented musicians in Nashville who inspired and influenced their own musical growth.Joel's Health Challenges and RecoveryJoel experienced a near-death experience in India, where they contracted Guillain-Barre syndrome and became paralyzed.Joel's recovery took a full year, during which they relearned how to walk and play music.Nutrition and lifestyle played a crucial role in Joel's recovery, as did their passion for music and surfing.Joel's Future Plans and ProjectsJoel plans to perform and promote their new album, Psychedelic Surf Country.Joel will attend a bluegrass guitar camp to improve their skills and potentially join their wife's band.Joel will tour with an artist named Maya DeVitri and their own band, Soul Driven Train, throughout the summer.Joel's Views on AI and the Music IndustryJoel is fascinated and terrified by the potential of AI in music, but believes it is still far from replicating the human element of live performances.Joel uses AI tools like ChatGPT for tasks like writing emails and sequencing records, but resists using it for songwriting.Joel believes that the unique vibe and human connection of live music cannot be replicated by AI.TranscriptionJoel Timmons The vast majority of people that do it don’t ever make a dollar off it. It’s just something innate in people, and it’s something joyful and a sense of expression. Surfing and playing an instrument or singing a song challenges you to be in the moment and be focused on immediate surroundings and task at hand.Michael Frampton Welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. That is a couple of quotes from today’s guest, Joel Timmons. Joel is a surfer and a songwriter from Sullivan’s Island in South Carolina, who grew up with a deep connection to both music and the ocean. And that is a song called Say It To My Face off his new album, Psychedelic Surf Country, which will play out in its entirety at the end of this interview. It’s my favorite song off the album, so thank you for letting me use it in this podcast. I thoroughly enjoyed my conversation with Joel. I am a huge fan of listening and playing music. And this is a little bit of a different episode. Not a lot of surf content per se. It’s mostly about music. And let me know if you’re enjoying these different episodes. We did one a couple of weeks ago about parenting. This one’s about music. And let me know if you’re enjoying the eclecticness of these episodes. And without further ado, I will fade in my conversation with Joel Timmons.Michael Frampton Thanks for joining.Joel Timmons Thank you.Michael Frampton I’ve been listening to the new album.Joel Timmons Sweet, how’s it translate down under?Michael Frampton Man. Yeah, I’m enjoying it. Pretty good, man.Joel Timmons You’re in New Zealand?Michael Frampton Yes, I am.Joel Timmons Cool.Michael Frampton Favourite song on that album is Say It To My Face.Joel Timmons Oh, cool, man. Yeah. Yeah, I think that’s, for me at least, it’s the most... lyrically, it’s the most relatable song.Michael Frampton Cool.Joel Timmons Yeah. Very good. It’s pretty direct. Yeah, no, I like that. Yeah, this sounds like there’s a lot of self-work thing going on as well.Michael Frampton I guess so.Joel Timmons Yeah. Yeah. I think songwriting is like a big tool for me with that, almost like journaling can be, and then sometimes those journals end up out in the world and that is quite therapeutic. Yeah. To have some secret little kernel of pain or question and then articulate it to yourself and make it feel nice to yourself and then get to share it with an audience.Michael Frampton Definitely transformative.Joel Timmons I guess songwriting is very cathartic in that way. Yeah, the good ones are. That particular song, I was just at home, just like crying my eyes out. The words were just pouring out of me like the tears. And since that moment, I had had the opportunity to get back together with that friend and have the conversation that we needed to have, even before I went into the studio to record it. So then being in the studio, it was really magical to be able to access the pain of when we were at odds, but then also with the knowledge of, okay, we did it. And that kind of jam out at the end of the song, that sort of resolves to a major key, and that musically was that reconciliation. So it was, yeah, it was really a beautiful journey.Michael Frampton Yeah. It’s a beautiful song.Joel Timmons Sophie sent me an earlier version of it before it was released.Michael Frampton Oh, cool.Joel Timmons Once it was released, I went on to—the album was released—I went on to Spotify, and I assumed that would be the most popular song. I was quite surprised to see that it wasn’t.Michael Frampton Interesting.Joel Timmons Yeah. Yeah. And I didn’t release that one as a single. So some of those songs that have singles, were released as singles, have had a little more time out there. I just know of the few people that I’ve talked to into the empire, people like that song, which I didn’t... I love that song, but I didn’t know that it was gonna be special for some people. I’m glad to hear you say you like Say It To My Face.Michael Frampton We played that one Friday. I hit a release show here in town.Joel Timmons Oh yeah?Michael Frampton And we played the whole album top to bottom live, and that one...Joel Timmons Oh, rad.Michael Frampton That one felt really potent.Joel Timmons I’m really enjoying the Trying song as well. It’s really cool.Michael Frampton Yeah, that one was also very fun live. That was like the last—we were at the finish line on the record and you could really cut loose. People were dancing and everything, so it was a good time.Michael Frampton So, let’s keep it surfing a little bit. When did you start surfing?Joel Timmons Yeah. So I grew up on a barrier island in South Carolina, Sullivan’s Island. So we were like riding boogie boards and little styrofoam surfboards when I was a toddler, four or five years old. My family, when we moved to Louisiana for three years, when I was entering fourth grade—fourth, fifth, and sixth grade—we were in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. So there was no ocean there. My mom was a windsurfer, so we did a little windsurfing in Louisiana, brought that from South Carolina. And then when I moved back, all my little buddies that I grew up with were all surfing at that...At that point. I guess that was in seventh grade when I was like 13. So I started, yeah, I started surfing and studying and like reading the magazines and watching Endless Summer and that kind of thing. And then I guess like the surf season here is—we get hurricane swells in the late summer and early fall, and then really most of the waves come in the winter. But I wasn’t—when I first started—I wasn’t surfing in the wintertime. It was probably high school before I got a wetsuit and started surfing year-round. And the year I graduated high school, a couple of us took a surf trip to Costa Rica, which is a rite of passage for an East Coast surfer. Outer Banks in North Carolina, Florida, and then like the Caribbean or Central America.Michael Frampton Yeah.Joel Timmons Puerto Rico as well. I’ve been to Puerto Rico a couple of times. I went there in college for the first time, so a couple of years later. Yeah, that’s a really close flight and man, an awesome surf destination. Yeah, I guess I’ve been there maybe four or five times now.Michael Frampton Yeah, to Puerto Rico?Joel Timmons Yeah. Yeah. I’ve been there once and the waves were huge. I was so surprised how much swell they get there. Yeah, I just got back from the Virgin Islands, which are just like the U.S. Virgin Islands, like the next islands over from Puerto Rico. And I’ve been going down there every winter for about 15 years and have scored some great swells down there. This year was a bit off. When I showed up, everybody was like, “It’s the best season we’ve ever seen.” The old guys were like, “The waves haven’t stopped since September.” And then there was one more swell when I got there, and then it stopped and it’s gone quiet. But I did get to catch one good swell down there this year.Michael Frampton Are you a surfer who plays music or a musician who surfs?Joel Timmons I’m a musician who surfs. Yeah. Yeah, for sure. Definitely. Nobody’s paying me to show up and surf. Yeah. And I do get gigs. I don’t know which one I would choose if I had to choose one or the other. Both have really guided me and helped me at different times.Michael Frampton If you were stuck on a desert island, would you choose a surfboard or a guitar?Joel Timmons Surfboard or a guitar? Golly, if there were waves, I’d probably have to choose a surfboard. I’m trying to think of some loophole where I can like get a guitar that’s shaped like a hand plane or something.Michael Frampton What’s harder—surfing or music—for you personally?Joel Timmons I think surfing’s harder. I don’t know. The Surf Mastery title of the podcast is scary for me ‘cause I definitely don’t feel like I’m a master of it, and I don’t feel like I’m a master of music either. That’s what the concept of mastery means. It’s not that you’ve mastered something, it’s that you have a drive to get better no matter what level you are.Michael Frampton Yeah, just want to improve.Joel Timmons Yep. And I do think there’s a parallel there in music for sure, as with surfing. It’s something—I’m 45 years old now—and I’m realizing now, oh gosh, I am one of those old guys now at this point. But there’s a generation or two ahead of me that I look up to and want to still be doing this in 20 or 30 years, both music and surfing. And it’s about learning and improving, even if my body presents limitations to me. If my fingers aren’t as fast or my pop-ups not as fast, to still be on a journey with it.Michael Frampton Definitely. Oh, for sure. And I see a lot of synergy with music and surfing. I think surfing is far more an art form than it is a sport. And you can pick your own journey. You could spend your entire lifetime only playing country music and never master it, and then decide to go into another genre and be like a beginner again. And the same with surfing. You change to a different type of board or a different type of wave that you want to surf and begin your journey all over again.Joel Timmons Yeah. Music’s interesting too, because there’s probably amazing classically trained jazz musicians living in New York who barely earn any money. And then you’ve got people like—have you heard of The Chats?Michael Frampton The Chats?Joel Timmons No?Michael Frampton Uh-uh.Joel Timmons They’re an Australian band. Just grunge, punk rock, basic music. But their lyrics speak to the entire culture of Australia. So they’re cool. Sold-out shows. And the…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    117 Surf Every Day: How DJ Morris Found Flow in Winter Waves Apr 18, 2025
    Show notes

    117 Surf Every Day: How DJ Morris Found Flow in Winter Waves Surf Mastery Podcast Download What happens when a lifelong connection to the ocean turns into a mission to surf every single day through winter?Whether you're a surfer, an ocean lover, or someone chasing consistency in your passions, this episode dives deep into the transformative power of daily dedication and the personal growth that comes from truly connecting with the ocean. If you've ever wondered how doing something every day could reshape your mindset, this is for you.Hear how DJ Morris turned his childhood love of the ocean into a thriving surf school and daily surfing ritual.Discover the surprising challenges and benefits of surfing every day through a New Zealand winter.Learn the biggest beginner mistakes in surfing—and how to actually pick the right board for your skill level and local waves.Tune in now to get inspired by DJ’s story of ocean connection, consistency, and the joy of sharing surfing with others—this episode might just change the way you approach your own passions.Follow Dee Jay on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/deejaymorris/Hawkes Bay Surf School: https://www.facebook.com/HawkesBaySurfSchool/Song - Fernweh By NachurKey PointsSurfing every day during winter has led to a deeper connection with the ocean and improved surfing skills for DJ Morris.DJ Morris has been using a 4/3 wetsuit for the first time this winter, which has helped him adapt to the cold conditions.DJ Morris has noticed a significant improvement in his surfing style and ability to connect with the ocean due to his daily surfing routine.DJ Morris emphasizes the importance of matching the right surfboard to a beginner's skill level to avoid frustration and enhance learning.DJ Morris discusses the transition from being a passionate surfer to a surf instructor, highlighting the energy and satisfaction of teaching others to surf.DJ Morris shares his experience as a former lifeguard, including the challenges and emotional toll of searching for drowning victims.DJ Morris mentions that the surf school is busy and continues to offer lessons through the winter, despite the cold conditions.DJ Morris provides information on how to follow his daily surfing journey and the surf school's social media presence. OutlineIntroduction to DJ MorrisDJ Morris is a guest on the Surf Mastery Podcast, sharing their journey and experiences in surfing.DJ Morris is a surf coach at the local Hawke's Bay Surf School and can be followed on Instagram at DJ Morris.DJ Morris's Surfing JourneyDJ Morris started surfing properly around the age of 10, initially introduced to the ocean through surf lifesaving at age 7.DJ Morris's first memorable surfing experience was catching a green wave on a Minnie Mouse longboard provided by a friend's dad.Surfing is currently a significant part of DJ Morris's life, serving as both a source of income and an outlet.Surfing Every Day in WinterDJ Morris set a goal to surf every day throughout the New Zealand winter to deepen their connection with the ocean.This challenge was documented on social media to maintain accountability.DJ Morris has been using a 4/3mm wetsuit for the first time, having only worn a 5/4mm previously.DJ Morris has not yet resorted to wearing gloves or a hoodie, managing with earplugs and a beanie.Impact of Consistency on SurfingDJ Morris believes that surfing every day has helped them achieve a perfect flow state and improve their surfing style.DJ Morris has noticed changes in their surfing approach, including a better understanding of tides, wind, and wave patterns.DJ Morris emphasizes the importance of patience and observation in surfing, rather than rushing.DJ Morris's Relationship with the OceanDJ Morris has a long-standing relationship with the ocean, influenced by their family's history as fishermen.DJ Morris worked as a lifeguard, gaining a deep respect for the ocean's power and unpredictability.DJ Morris describes several challenging experiences as a lifeguard, including searching for drowning victims.Transition to Teaching SurfingDJ Morris transitioned from surfing as a passion to teaching it professionally, finding joy in helping others learn to surf.DJ Morris has learned to adapt their teaching style to better suit beginners, emphasizing patience and proper technique.DJ Morris highlights the importance of matching beginners with the right type of surfboard for their skill level.Common Mistakes of Beginner SurfersDJ Morris notes that beginners often rush their learning process and may choose inappropriate surfboards for their skill level.DJ Morris advises beginners to start with foam boards or longboards before progressing to high-performance shortboards.Future Plans for the Surf SchoolThe surf school, run by DJ Morris, is preparing for a busy summer with school lessons and private lessons.The surf school is in the process of creating a website, currently operating primarily through their Facebook page.Social Media and Contact InformationDJ Morris can be followed on Instagram at DJ Morris (D-E-J-A-Y Morris) for updates on their surfing journey.The Hawke's Bay Surf School can be found on Instagram and Facebook under the handle HB Surf School.TranscriptionDJ Morris I reckon it's got me into like this perfect flow state on surfing, and I wanted to get out and get that connection properly in tune with it.Michael Frampton Welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast, the podcast that helps passionate, lifelong surfers to catch more waves, surf with more speed, style and grace, and to gain wisdom and confidence in the water. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and that was a couple of quotes from today's guest, DJ Morris. DJ Morris. And this interview was done at the end of winter last year, where DJ had a goal of surfing every day throughout the New Zealand winter. In this episode we will hear about DJ's story of ocean connection and, of course, consistency, and we discover the surprising challenges and benefits of surfing every day through a New Zealand winter. DJ is a surf coach here at the local Hawke's Bay Surf School, and you can follow DJ's story on Instagram at DJ Morris, which is D-E-E-J-A-Y Morris. Links to everything in the show notes, as always, and without further ado I shall fade in my conversation with DJ Morris. When did you start surfing?DJ Morris Started surfing probably around like properly going out around the age of 10. So I actually started in surf lifesaving when I was seven. And that got me not introduced to the ocean, but just got me confident in the waves and that, and then ended up, yeah, going from those long paddleboards into a short board that someone found on the beach, I think had been fixed up. Yeah. It was an old season board and the nose had actually been snapped off and they had fixed it by just rounding the nose. And then gave me that a whack and yeah, fell in love with it. Yeah, so that was about 10 years old. And then kept going. And that was just out here. That was at Waimarama. So I grew up at Waimarama, still living at Waimarama. Have moved around a bit. But yeah, back there raising a family.Michael Frampton Do you remember like the first time you caught like a green wave? Yeah. Like really?DJ Morris Yeah. I definitely remember that. It actually wasn't even on that board that I was talking about. It was on a, so my dad used to manage bars and run nightclubs and he had a mate that had a Lion Red longboard or mini mal. Mini mal. Yeah. And I remember him being like, oh, you gotta come out of the whitewash and come right out the back. And it wasn't, it mustn't have been that big. Felt big. And then he pushed me in on it, and I just remember that feeling like, whoa, okay. Did it. And then actually paddled that board back out to him so I could do it again. Yeah.And what does surfing mean to you now? Surfing means everything to me. Like, at the moment, it's—well, it's every day. And then I'm part owner with Bronson Primer in the surf school, Hawke's Bay Surf School. So it's my income and it's my outlet and, yeah, I'm focused in on it, like super focused in on it at the moment. Yeah. Yeah. Just loving it. So every day at the moment.Tell us about that. Yeah, so surfing every day of winter, it wasn't even meant to be like this thing that it's kind of turned into. It was just kind of a goal for myself to more connect with the ocean and, 'cause I'm doing the surf lessons, I wanted to get out and get that connection properly in tune with it, and teaching people how to get in that connection. And I thought, well, through winter, I'm not the biggest fan of like cold weather in the winter here. So I was like, I'll make a challenge for myself. But then I got real into like documenting it.And I put it out on social media and that was for like—how can I explain it—to make it accountable? Yeah. So if I did stop, people might reach out and be like, hey, you didn't even make it. So that kept it going, but then it got easier and easier. Like, well, it hasn't been hard yet. Because I love surfing and I love getting out there. There's been a couple of dicey days that were like, yeah, oh, I'm not even gonna make it out where there was no back to get out to. So I just grabbed the foam top and jumped on a couple of little ones on the inside.But yeah, surfing every day of winter, it's been awesome. Yeah. Day 81 today.Day 81. So what, technically there's 90 days?Yeah. Yeah. Technically. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Going through it.Michael Frampton Oh cool. And what is it, getting colder and colder as you go?DJ Morris The water—it has, but then like, I dunno if I'm getting used to it more, but there's like colder places like Te Awanga, for example. That little outlet of the river, that's real cold. Yep. And then I surfed a couple of times at Perfume Point off Napier. Yep. And yeah, that was freezing. But the wetsuits that we have now are mean. Yeah. Like can't beat them. Rocking those 4/3s, booties. It's my second season ever in my life in booties. Yeah. First season was last year and I was like, didn't know if I was onto it. And just a different feel, eh? Like I know. I liked feeling the board. Yeah. And then, yeah. Put them on and yeah. Yeah. You get to a certain age and your feet just start hurting in the cold. Like it's, you can't not wear them.Michael Frampton Yeah. That's definitely it. Yeah. Wait, you gone gloves?DJ Morris I didn't wanna put that one—gloves yet? Age? No gloves yet? No. Gloves and hoodies messed me up. Even I've, I've only just gotten used to the earplugs.Michael Frampton Hmm. I don't hear yourself. Do you wear earplugs?DJ Morris Yeah, I wear earplugs. If I don't, I'm so prone to ear infection, so I'm just used to them now.Michael Frampton Oh yeah. I wear the surfers ones so you can still hear.DJ Morris Yeah. Yeah. I got those ones. It's not the same. No. And it does take a bit of getting used to. Yeah. But, um, yeah. And my hearing's bad, like already, so when I've got those in and people are talking to me, I'm like, yep. I'm like screaming at them.Michael Frampton Yeah. You could try the Docks plugs. Have you seen those? You could try those. Yeah. They've, they've vented. So they don't—what I find is that it's not about stopping all of the water. It's about stopping the pressure of the water going in. So there, there's these ones called vented Docks, and they've got a little hole in them so you can actually hear pretty good.DJ Morris Oh true. And they let a little bit of water in, but there's no, like lots of—there's no pressure and no lots of water going in. Yeah. Those do okay for me as well. But, um, yeah, no, earplugs are just a habit for me now. You get used to it, nice sort of thing. Yeah. But yeah, slowly getting used to it, so yep. It's good.Michael Frampton You get to know the next age bracket is when you have to wear gloves when it's cold. Otherwise your hands just hurt. Stop moving.DJ Morris Yeah. Luckily I've surfed in like colder times where I remember my hands freezing up. This winter has been—like everybody's saying that it's been like quite a wet, bad winter, and I'm like, man, it's been mint for me. I don't know. Yeah. Just in a different flow of things, I guess.Michael Frampton So every, every day this winter. And has anyone joined you? Anyone jumped on the bandwagon?DJ Morris No, not really. No joining me to come every day, but heaps of people I've been surfing with. Yeah. Yeah. There's a couple of local guys out at WA that I kind of rope in when it gets to a decent size and I'm like, I don't really wanna surf by myself. And I go jump around there and be like, you guys want to come out? They're like, yeah, as a kid. I'm like, yeah, it's real good. But yeah, it's been fun. Yeah, definitely been fun.Michael Frampton What do you think that consistency does for your surfing?DJ Morris Oh man, I was talking to someone about this. I reckon it's got me into like this perfect flow state on surfing. And the way that this has been moving—going on TV, which is weird—it's just hooked people into it. And then, yeah, but with this surfing side, I've definitely seen a different style come out of myself because I've been changing boards up quite a lot at the moment. And I've been surfing, like to myself, real good. I don't know. It's just, yeah, like I said, connecting. Especially with the ocean and that and knowing where to be. Like I used to kind of rush surfs, like it would be on a timeline or I'd jump out just because there's a wave that I've seen. But now I can just walk down to the beach and be like, oh yeah, that looks like a good little spot. Sit there, watch it. And then even days where it's like, okay, I gotta get this done 'cause I've got other stuff to do, I can now time it like, oh yeah, I know this tide, the wind's doing this. So that connection's really helped.Michael Frampton Mm. Yeah. 'Cause you get in tune with the tide, the banks.DJ Morris Yeah. The wind. And you just—and I can see the banks moving. Yeah. It's crazy. Like different little peaks and that. So it's been—yeah. Definitely helped my surfing.Michael Frampton Yeah. It's like a long-term relationship, surfing.DJ Morris Yeah, it is. Yeah. Finally got it back.Michael Frampton Yeah. But no, the longer you stick with it, the more effort you put in, the more it gives back, you know?DJ Morris Yeah. That's it. Yeah. It's been cool, like going to just beaches along in Hawke's Bay and just, yeah, finding that right wave. And people even messaging me like, oh, there's a wave coming over here. We'll be surfing today? Yeah, I'm going out now. Okay, let's go find it.Michael Frampton Oh, cool.DJ Morris Yeah.Michael Frampton How would you describe your relationship to the ocean?DJ Morris I've got a long relationship with the ocean. I love it. I can't be away from it too long, even if it is just a flat body of ocean. No swell. I grew up around it, obviously my whole life, but my dad and my granddad were fishermen. So I live off it as well, like during the—well now during the summer. Love seafood, love fish, gather from it. And then now my business is in it. So I spend a lot of time with it and then respect it as well, like a lot. Because I know, as my first job I was a lifeguard, so I know what it can take from us and what it can give. So, you know, I love, love the ocean.Michael Frampton Was any gnarly experiences as a lifeguard?DJ Morris Yeah, like we had a few. W…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    116 Maggie Dent - Parenting Boys with Backbone, Heart and Surfboards. Apr 18, 2025
    Show notes

    116 Maggie Dent - Parenting Boys With Backbone, Heart And Surfboards Surf Mastery Podcast Download Are you raising boys and wondering how to guide them through risk, resilience, and real conversations—without losing your mind or your connection with them?Navigating the journey from boyhood to manhood can feel like walking a tightrope—especially in today’s digital, high-pressure world. This episode offers a refreshing, deeply insightful look into parenting boys with empathy, science, and solid boundaries—while still letting them crash, climb, and surf their way to growth.Learn the three foundational rules every parent should use to help kids make better choices and build integrity.Discover how movement, like a simple walk or shooting hoops, can open powerful pathways to communication with your son.Hear real-life stories of parenting wins (and fails) that show how warmth and structure build trust and resilience for life.How surfing helps to shape good men.Hit play now to discover how you can be the calm, connected parent your son turns to—no matter what.https://www.maggiedent.comKey PointsAdvocating for three foundational rules for children to make better choices.Importance of resilience, risk, and nature in parenting boys as highlighted by Maggie Dent.Discussion on effective communication strategies, especially through small chats, for guiding children.Highlighting the importance of allowing boys to experience the unpredictability of life and the value of nature play.Discussing the role of surfing in developing deep friendships and its impact on mental health.Exploring the concept of masculinity beyond societal expectations and the importance of emotional expression.Sharing insights on grieving processes and the importance of safe spaces for emotional expression among men.Emphasizing the significance of unconditional love and safety in parenting. OutlineSurfing and its impact on boysMaggie Dent discussed the positive impact of surfing on boys, highlighting that it teaches them to deal with outcomes they cannot controlSurfing was mentioned as a way to build resilience and frustration tolerance in boysMaggie shared personal anecdotes about her sons and their love for surfing, and how it helped them reset and regulate their emotionsParenting boys with backbone, heart, and resilienceMaggie Dent emphasized the importance of raising boys with backbone, heart, and resilienceShe discussed the need for parents to guide boys through risk and resilience, and to have real conversations with themMaggie suggested three foundational rules for parents to help their kids make better choices: be aware that every choice has a consequence, ensure choices do not hurt oneself or others, and do not damage the world aroundShe advocated for warm, connected, and responsive parenting, emphasizing the importance of boundaries and consequencesCommunication and listening in parentingMaggie Dent highlighted the importance of effective communication and listening in parentingShe shared her experience as a teacher and counselor, emphasizing the value of being a safe and non-judgmental listener for childrenMaggie advised parents to resist the urge to immediately solve their children's problems, allowing them to develop problem-solving skillsShe suggested taking a walk or engaging in physical activity to facilitate conversations and create a safe space for children to open upDealing with teenage behavior and challengesMaggie Dent discussed the challenges of parenting teenagers, including their tendency towards risky behavior and impulsivityShe shared personal anecdotes about her sons' experiences with injuries, accidents, and emotional challengesMaggie emphasized the importance of maintaining a warm and loving relationship with teenagers, even as they push boundaries and seek independenceShe advised parents to be patient, empathetic, and understanding, and to avoid shaming or punishing teenagers for their mistakesNavigating the digital world and online safetyMaggie Dent addressed the challenges of parenting in the digital age, including the exposure of children to harmful content onlineShe discussed the importance of monitoring children's online activities and having conversations about online safety and appropriate behaviorMaggie suggested limiting children's access to smartphones and social media, and using monitoring apps to keep them safeShe emphasized the need for parents to be aware of the potential dangers of sextortion and the importance of teaching children about consent and respect in relationshipsMasculinity and men's mental healthMaggie Dent discussed her views on masculinity, rejecting the concept of 'toxic masculinity' and emphasizing the importance of men's emotional vulnerability and connectionShe shared her experiences working with men and highlighted the need for men to process grief and trauma in their own wayMaggie advocated for men's groups and safe spaces for men to express their emotions and connect with othersShe emphasized the importance of men being present and involved in their children's lives and expressing love and affection towards their partners and childrenTranscriptionMaggie Dent And I think that's one of the beautiful things, you know, why I talk about why surfing was so good for the boys, because... They couldn't control the outcome. I think if every family had it and we came back to just three rules instead of too many rules is that.Michael Frampton Commonly known as the queen of common sense, Maggie Dent has become one of Australia's favorite parenting authors, educators, and podcasters. Welcome back to the Surf Mastery Podcast. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and today's episode, a little bit of a different one. It's all about parenting. So if you're not a parent or an expecting parent, this might not be the episode for you. But if you are... Stay tuned. Maggie raised four surfers, four boys, four surfing boys. And she is a parenting expert with a podcast and 10 books. So really cool conversation. We talk about raising and guiding boys through risk resilience, real conversations. We talk about the three foundational rules that every parent should use to help their kids to make better choices. Plus much more. This episode is for any parent, not just surfers. So please share this episode with friends that could use it. A little bit of parenting help, and we all can. Without further ado, I will fade in my conversation with Maggie Dent. Excellent. Thank you so much. Nice to meet you too. Thank you so much for coming on the podcast.Maggie Dent Total pleasure since it's something I know a little bit about. Heh.Michael Frampton Surfing and boys.Maggie Dent Resilience, risk, injuries, you name it, I've got it all. I live in Jerringong, which is south of Sydney, right on the coast of Cook. So my lawyer son lives here. My doctor son lives in Pottsville, just south of the Queensland border. One lives near Manly. And the other one is in the Margaret River area and his favourite beach is the one where three people have been eaten by white pointer sharks. Nice. And he said, like I said, you never see any of my sons happier than... After sift.Michael Frampton Yep. Where the good waves are is often where those big creatures are as well, sadly.Maggie Dent Yeah, and I think, you know, early on, as every, I think every probably woman, even more so than a man. That was, you know, I had to really give myself some really strong talking to's because I...The chances are you get killed by mosquitoes at far higher. They came with me with the stats. I love it with this pragmatism of boys and men. Now look, mozzies kill millions. Donkeys kill more than sharks, Mum. And I had to sit there and go, they're actually right. Put it in perspective, Mark. And then, you know, the other thing they say, I know I'll give you the full story to this one where they came to. So they've come down for Christmas when I lived in Dunsborough, which is near Margaret River. Somebody had been attacked in the area on the Saturday. All four boys got up, put their wetties on, and they're about walking out the door. And I'm looking at the Sunday Times front page story. And they paused and they looked and said, you're okay, Mum. And I said, no, I'm not okay. And they said, well, it's, you know, it's a really rare chance, Mum. And then one of them says, and we'll all die doing something we love. And then the third one, which I thought was the classic, the clown of the family says, anyway, it's not hungry. Ha. Only a mother of four sons would know that.Michael Frampton Gosh, how old were they when it happened?Maggie Dent Yeah, that was, that would cover 22, 20, 18 and 14.Michael Frampton Oh, okay. Yeah. Is that, that sort of 14–15, that's, is that the age where you just, you have to sort of let go?Maggie Dent Oh look, you know, and I think it was even before we really had the science to show, I mean, I was a high school teacher, so I taught them, and we all know the age of 14, they turn into kind of Neanderthal apes. Really. There's an awful lot of crazy behavior. 'Cause they're wired to hang out with mates and make 'em laugh and be stupid. And often it's the physicality, which many—often women don't understand. So punching and slapping and wrestling isn't a sign of aggression. It's actually a sign of connection with a lot of boys. So in my English classrooms, there were just days, I'd just be rolling my head going, no dude, that's it. Outside afterwards, right? Can we get on with the English? Oh yeah, miss, sorry, miss. You know, and that whole—they use lightness, laughter, and physicality to try to deal with the incredible stress that they're living with because they haven't got a clue what's going on. They don't know their brain is pruning everything, which means they're even more forgetful, even more poorly organized, even more impulsive, uh, and are wired for risk. When you get the science, you see them through such a different lens, Mike, and I, I loved, you know, I absolutely loved boys in that window, and that was kind of firstly before I had my own, and then even more so after I had my own, 'cause that was my house.Michael Frampton Yeah. No, and I, I have three boys. So—Maggie Dent How old are yours?Michael Frampton Eight, nine, and 12.Maggie Dent Wow. Right there. We're on the cusp of that beautiful journey, and please don't listen to all the doomsayers. You know, like I, I probably had, I reckon we worked it out when we had a couple, not long ago, my boys are now, 43, 41, 39, and 34, 35, and they were—we talked about it. We reckon there were five big moments. That were, yeah, that were really scary and a bit frightening and not necessarily involving them. More their mates. They lost a couple of mates in a car accident… mm-hmm, in a cousin, in a plane crash. There were moments where one got diagnosed with type one diabetes, knee reconstructions, crash cars, broken hearts, you name it. When you put it in that perspective, you know that with four boys. So it's not half as bad as the world paints it to be. That's why I've written my latest book. 'Cause if you get a way of communicating—and it doesn't matter if it's girls or boys—that doesn't sound like you're a grown-up who knows everything, that you're a grown-up who just damn cares and can remember how bumpy that ride was, then you know what? They'll turn to you. They'll turn to us. And quite often, it was their—the boys would actually get their mates. They come in some days and say, “Mum, can you talk to him?” And I go, “Why?” And he said, “'Cause he's being a dickhead in class. And he's gonna get in trouble, he's gonna get expelled. Can you just have a bit of a chat, but don't tell him I told you.” And so there is a genuine concern for friendships in that window. And quite often teens are more worried about their friends than they are themselves.Michael Frampton Mm-hmm. So it's one of those, you know, I call it a, a bit of a hack is that, you know, check in with how are your friends going as these exams are coming, or are any of your friends vaping? Go by the friend door and there's a more chance the door stays open. If you go straight at them, bang, it's shut. Interesting. So what—so your boys were getting you to talk to their friends. Were you one of the few adults that would actually just listen to them rather than straight away give them advice or something?Maggie Dent Yeah, I think I was. I was kind of born to be that lighthouse figure. I can still remember in my boarding school days having chats to my own age group. Making sense of stuff. I don't know—did I grow—was I born old? I don't know. But also being a lighthouse figure while I was teaching, you know, the kids all knew that you can hang around and talk to Mrs. Dent. And also if they were worried about one of their friends, and in actual fact there were a couple that were contemplating suicide that their mates came and told me about. And I was able to actually be there right near that time because where are the safe people that they can turn to? So it's great if we've got a warm, loving relationship with your parents, even though you are wired to push 'em back. Because you're meant to start individuating into being an adult. It doesn't matter, girls or boys—girls start earlier than boys, which again makes boys often look like they're even thicker than they were. It's not their fault. And then as they go forward, is there a safe grown-up? And that really is why I ended up leaving teaching English. And then I became a relief teacher. 'Cause I really was drowning in English marking. So with four sons obviously. So I became the relief supply teacher. So that meant I could say no if someone was sick or—and I loved it 'cause I'm a bit of a, you know, basketball freak. So quite often I liked the phys ed classes the best, because there's not so much sitting, 'cause I'm not good at sitting for long periods of time. Then I realized, anyone can teach 'em how to write a paragraph or an essay, but I don't know. You know, not everyone can do what I can do when they're really struggling. So I did a post-grad diploma in counseling and therapy and set up a counseling and training center, which was in—oh God—1998. Yeah. And that began the whole different journey for me.And it's been interesting as this book launched because I kind of went back to where I started. So I've locked the gate, 10 books for parents—no more. I might write fiction or something next. But I've had all these messages, you know, via socials 'cause they can find me. And there was a really big feature in Western Australia, which of course embarrasses my sons, but anyone I counseled or taught, they all were reaching out and I just sobbed for the first two weeks because of the gratitude that was coming. Because having that capacity to shut up and really listen, and kind of hear them and see them and validate them, that's something that you can learn. But for some people—and the most exceptional of our teachers and coaches have that ability—mm-hmm. But we can learn it. And I think that’s, you know, it wasn’t hard for me to know how to do it. 'Cause I was such a moody, dark teen myself.Michael Frampton So, yeah. Uh, I think as parents, often, I know when my boys—if they come to me with a problem—my initial thought is, here’s the solution. Isn’t it obvious? Yes, you idiot. But I have to tell myself, no, no. Just repeat back to them what they said—like empathy. Just hear them out, let them vent. Then quite often they’ll figure…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    115 Handling Aggressive Surfers: Surf Coaching Tactics for Confidence, Respect & More Waves Apr 08, 2025
    Show notes 115 Handling Aggressive Surfers: Surf Coaching Tactics for Confidence, Respect & More Waves Surf Mastery Podcast Download

    Have you ever been snaked, dropped in on, or steamrolled by an aggressive surfer who seems to think they own the ocean? Find it hard to deal with localism?

    Navigating the lineup isn't just about catching waves—it's about dealing with egos, entitlement, and sometimes flat-out intimidation. If you’ve ever felt powerless or frustrated by alpha surfers who constantly push the boundaries of etiquette, this episode offers a crucial shift in mindset and approach.

    • Learn how to gain respect in the lineup—even from surf legends like Laird Hamilton.

    • Discover the psychological principles behind why some surfers bully and how to respond effectively.

    • Get practical tips for standing your ground calmly and confidently without escalating conflict.

    Hit play now to learn how to hold your own in the lineup and start catching the waves you deserve.

    Key Points

    • Introduction of the topic on dealing with aggressive surfers and the importance of standing up for oneself in the lineup.

    • The host shares a personal anecdote about dealing with Laird Hamilton, emphasizing the need to stand up for oneself and not be a willing victim.

    • Discussion on the psychological principle that aggressive surfers often connect through conflict and the importance of facing conflict to gain respect.

    • Advice to match the energy of aggressive surfers and be willing to engage in conflict to earn their respect and avoid being bullied.

    • Caution about confronting certain individuals, such as psychopaths, and the suggestion to ease into confrontations in crowded lineups.

    • Reiteration that being bullied in the surf is due to being a willing victim and the importance of not being conflict avoidant to connect with dominant surfers.

    Outline

    Dealing with Aggressive Surfers

    • Michael Frampton discusses strategies for handling aggressive surfers, emphasizing the importance of standing up for oneself and adhering to surf etiquette.

    • Michael shares a personal experience involving Laird Hamilton, highlighting the need to confront aggressive behavior calmly and confidently to gain respect.

    • The narrative illustrates how matching an aggressive surfer's energy and being willing to face conflict can lead to mutual respect and cooperation.

    • Michael advises that experienced surfers, especially those who exhibit dominant behavior, will test others. Demonstrating skill, respect for lineup etiquette, and confidence can earn respect.

    • It is noted that while confronting aggressive behavior is important, one should be cautious and read the situation, especially in crowded lineups, to avoid unnecessary conflict.

    • Michael suggests that if confrontation is not feasible or safe, finding another surfing spot might be a better option.

    Psychological Principles in Surfing and Life

    • Michael discusses psychological principles relevant to both surfing and everyday life, particularly the dynamics of conflict and respect.

    • He explains that many dominant individuals connect through conflict and may take advantage of those who avoid it, suggesting that facing conflict can sometimes lead to connection and mutual respect.

    • Michael advises that if someone is consistently causing problems, such as snaking or dropping in, it may be necessary to match their energy and engage in conflict to resolve the issue.

    • He emphasizes that surfing is a competitive activity where waves are a limited resource, and surfers need to be assertive to catch the best waves.

    Avoiding Conflict with Psychopaths

    • Michael warns about the presence of psychopaths in surfing and advises caution when confronting aggressive behavior.

    • He suggests easing into confrontations and reading the situation to avoid dangerous encounters.

    • Michael emphasizes the importance of knowing when to confront and when to find another surfing spot to ensure safety.

    Surfing Etiquette and Respect

    • Michael stresses the importance of surf etiquette and mutual respect among surfers.

    • He highlights that standing up for oneself and adhering to lineup etiquette can lead to a more harmonious surfing experience.

    • Michael advises that experienced surfers will test newcomers, and demonstrating confidence and respect can help earn their respect in return.

    Transcription

    Welcome back, or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast, the podcast that helps passionate, lifelong surfers to catch more waves, surf with more speed, style, and grace, and to gain wisdom and confidence in the water. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and in today's episode, we're gonna learn how to deal with the aggressive surfer.

    The arrogant surfer, the take-every-wave surfer, the entitled surfer. We all know who this person is—the person that snakes everyone, drops in on everyone. They are everywhere. How do you deal with this? The first thing you gotta remember is it takes two to tango. Every bully needs a willing victim. Let me tell you a story about how I dealt with the literal take-every-wave attitude of Laird Hamilton.

    I used to surf this novelty spot on an outside reef in Southern California. And every now and then, I'd cross paths with Laird. Always tried to be friendly and say hi. He would always just blank me. And then it got to a stage where he started surfing basically on my schedule. We'd almost paddle out together at first.

    It was the same thing. I'd try and be friendly to Laird, and he would just completely ignore me and do his thing—take every wave. He was on a standup foil, which was a wave-catching machine, and he himself is a bit of a wave-catching machine. His ability to be in tune with the best wave of the set was pretty admirable.

    But even when it was my turn, he'd always just come straight at me on his SUP, on his standup foil. Having Laird Hamilton come straight at you on a foil SUP is very intimidating. And the first couple of days, the first couple of surfs this happened, I just backed down and, "Okay, yeah, take that wave, Laird. I'll catch the next wave of the set."

    But after two days of this, I thought, you know what, if you lead, I'm going. And a set wave came through, and I wanted the biggest wave of the set. So did he. But he'd already just taken the biggest wave of the previous set. And I thought, you know what? It's my turn. I'm gonna hold my ground.

    And same as before, he got in a little bit earlier than me, and he was pointed straight at me. But I put my blinkers on and I caught the wave. He got scary close, but at the last second, he turned away from me and he continued to surf the unbroken, the shoulder part of the wave, which you can do on a foil board.

    And I continued to surf my style of surfing, which was closer to the whitewater. And as we were paddling back, he said, "Hey, that was my wave." I stopped paddling and sat up on my board and looked him straight in the eye and with calm confidence I said, "No, it was my turn." And he immediately gave a cheeky smile and paddled off.

    As I joined him at the takeoff zone and sat up on my board, he said in this friendly voice, "Oh, was that a New Zealand accent? Which part of New Zealand are you from?" And from that moment on, we just chatted and swapped waves.

    As soon as I chose not to back down and to stand up for—not necessarily my rights—but just general surf etiquette of, "We're both surfing. We're both capable and confident enough to be out here. We can just take turns." As soon as I did that and stood up for myself in a calm way, I instantly gained respect. And that is when he actually engaged with me.

    Experienced surfers, especially alpha surfers, will test you. They will intimidate you. But once you prove your skills and you show respect to the lineup etiquette, and you conduct yourself with confidence, you will be respected.

    But if you back down and let yourself be intimidated and you essentially gift that person the waves, they will take more than their fair share. Now, that's an extreme example with Laird, but Laird’s an extreme person. And he was being a twat. He was really pushing me and testing me.

    But I still, in the beginning, in the first two days when that was happening, I showed him respect. He's a better surfer than me. He's older than me. He probably surfed that spot more than me. But then when it came time, when push came to shove, I held my ground.

    The principle here is that I matched Laird's energy and I was willing to face the conflict. Remember, it takes two people to tango. Every bully needs a willing victim.

    Another psychological principle here that is relevant not just in surfing but in your everyday life, is that often these alpha males—or the extroverted person, whoever you wanna label them—they actually connect through conflict and they take advantage of those who are conflict avoidant.

    So if you're feeling any sort of domination or bullying happening in any part of your life, look that person in the eye and talk about it. Face them and dive into that conflict. You might be surprised—it's actually how you connect with them, because for them, that might be how they grew up.

    It might be normal for them. Conflict is a normal way of life. Conflict is how they engage with people, and they don't see it as conflict. That's just normal for them.

    If there's someone that you are having consistent problems with, someone that keeps snaking you, someone that keeps dropping in on you, you have to be willing to match their energy and enter some conflict with that person. Because surfing is not yoga with dolphins. It's a dog-eat-dog world out there.

    And waves are a limited resource. And if you want to catch some set waves, you better be hungry for it and you better be willing to fight for it.

    There are certain people you should not confront. There are psychopaths out there. Ease into it. Read the room. But if you are conflict avoidant, these surfers will run rings around you.

    So sometimes it's better just to go and surf somewhere else. So to round off, remember, if you are being bullied in the surf, that is because you are a willing victim.

    Side note—remember that my example with Laird was an extreme example because he's an extreme character and it was a one-on-one situation. At your local beach, in a crowded lineup, it's gonna be more of a slow burn over time. You have to ease your way into that. But there will be a point where you have to engage in conflict because if you are conflict avoidant, you will never connect with those dominant surfers and you'll never earn.

    So for more surfing tips and information, please check out the back catalog of this podcast.

    115 Handling Aggressive Surfers: Surf Coaching Tactics for Confidence, Respect & More Waves

    For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.


    114 The Surfing Copywriter: How Passion and Strategy Can Power Your Surf Business Mar 27, 2025
    Show notes

    114 The Surfing Copywriter: How Passion and Strategy Can Power Your Surf Business Surf Mastery Podcast Download What happens when a lifelong surfer ditches big-name fashion brands to carve out a niche as the go-to copywriter for the surf industry?If you're a surf business owner juggling content, marketing, and your next session in the water, this episode is a must-listen. Discover how surfer and copywriter Lachlan Campbell turned his passion for surfing into a thriving business that helps other surf brands rise above the noise—and how you can do the same.Learn how to align your passion with your profession and create a business that truly fits your lifestyle.Discover the current marketing gaps in the surf industry—and how surf camps, product brands, and retreats can capitalize on them.Get practical insights into how AI is changing the copywriting game and what it means for small surf brands on tight budgets.Hit play now to learn how to elevate your surf brand with strategic, authentic storytelling from someone who truly speaks your language—waves and all.https://thesurfingcopywriter.comKey PointsThe podcast discusses the alignment of profession with passion, focusing on business within the surf industry.Lachlan Campbell, the surfing copywriter, shares insights on marketing gaps in the surf industry and how AI is changing the game.Lachlan discusses the importance of managing expectations and being grateful for being in the water as a key to enjoying surfing.The shift to Europe influenced Lachlan's preference for different types of surfboards, moving away from performance shortboards to more fun boards like twin fins.Copywriting is defined as writing with intent and purpose to move someone from having an issue to having the solution, essentially the written form of marketing.The surf industry is increasingly recognizing the need for more proactive marketing strategies, especially post-COVID, to stand out among growing competition.There is potential for new surf brands to shine, especially in underserved markets or by offering unique experiences and collaborations, such as with wellness coaches.AI is changing the game by providing assistance in content creation and idea generation, though it's advised to add personal nuance to AI-generated content.Lachlan's ideal client is someone passionate about their business, considering more than just profit, and invested in improving people's lives through surfing. OutlineSurfing BackgroundLachlan Campbell started surfing at a very young age, possibly around seven or eight years old, and grew up on the east coast of Australia.Lachlan moved to Portugal after meeting their spouse in Nicaragua, as a compromise location for their shared living.Lachlan's surfing style has evolved over time, moving from performance shortboards to more fun boards like twin fins and mid-lengths.Surfing AdviceLachlan's best piece of surfing advice is to surf with no expectations and to be grateful for being in the water.Managing expectations and focusing on the quality of the experience rather than the quantity of waves can lead to a more enjoyable session.Lachlan suggests trying fun boards for a more relaxed and enjoyable surfing experience.Copywriting and Marketing in the Surf IndustryLachlan Campbell is a professional copywriter who specializes in the surf industry, having started in 2013 and focusing on surf businesses since 2018.Copywriting is defined as writing with intent and purpose to move someone from having an issue to having the solution, essentially selling an idea or product using words.The surf industry's grasp of marketing is described as limited, with many business owners relying on visual appeal and location rather than strategic marketing.There is an increasing need for surf businesses to invest in marketing due to heightened competition post-COVID, with more emphasis on SEO, email newsletters, and paid advertising.Smaller surf brands with limited budgets are finding opportunities to stand out by focusing on niche markets and unique offerings.Innovation and Trends in the Surf IndustryThere is ongoing innovation in the hard goods sector of the surf industry, with niche products like fin rental services and specialized surf accessories emerging.Surf camps and retreats are evolving by adding wellness, mental health, and resilience coaching to their offerings, catering to a demand for more comprehensive experiences.The integration of AI in copywriting and marketing is discussed, highlighting its role as a tool for idea generation, structure, and efficiency rather than a replacement for human creativity.Business Advice and Ideal Client ProfileLachlan offers business advice through a weekly newsletter, sharing insights from working with clients and personal musings.The ideal client for Lachlan is someone passionate about their business, invested in its growth, and aligned with the values of improving people's lives through surfing.Lachlan prefers working with clients on a retainer basis to build a deeper understanding of their business and contribute more effectively to its growth.TranscriptionMichael Frampton Welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. The podcast that helps passionate lifelong surfers to catch more waves, surf with more speed, style, and grace, and to gain wisdom and confidence in the water. I am your host, Michael Frampton. Today's episode is a little bit different. We're talking about business, in particular business within the surf industry. Today's guest is Lachlan Campbell, the surfing copywriter—that's thesurfingcopywriter.com—and we're going to discover how you can align your profession with your passion. We'll talk about the current marketing gaps in the surf industry and practical insights about how AI is changing the game and what it means for small surf brands on tight budgets, plus much more. And Lachlan is an experienced surfer and he weighs in with some nice practical surf tips as well before we segue into the business side of things. The next cohort of the Wave Catching Academy is live, so if you're on the waiting list, you can go ahead and book that if you are frustrated with the lack of waves that you're getting. And personally, I'm sick of all these surf coaches doing nothing but teach you how to do a better bottom turn or a top turn. Yet the hardest part in surfing is what happens between when the board is under your arm and under your feet. So if you want to learn the details about that and how to get into more waves, about how to catch more waves and how to set the start of the wave up, it's the hardest part of surfing and that's what this course is all about. I have a couple of spaces in the diary for some one-on-one online coaching as well. You can email me mike@surfmastery.com if you want to find out more about that. And now here is my conversation with Lachlan Campbell, the surfing copywriter. When did you start surfing?Lachlan Campbell I can't say I, 'cause I can't remember what my first surf session was. It was, I was younger than 10, but I know there's some photos floating around at my parents' house, of my dad pushing me onto waves in Queensland. But I'd been surfing before that, let's say like eight, seven or eight years old, like getting pushed on the waves, just the beach. Not seriously going, hey, like I wanna surf, but just like my dad surfed and stuff. So he was obviously taken to the beach when he went to the beach and I was around surfing pretty much my whole childhood. But I think I, because I even went from surfing, learning how to surf and then jumped on a bodyboard for a little bit 'cause that's what all my mates was doing. And then when we all jumped on surfboards again and graduated to the kind of like the more advanced beach in the area, we were back on surfboards. So, I don't know, since I was young, but shivers, you wouldn't, you wouldn't know it if you saw me for about how long I've been surfing. I'm still pretty, pretty steady, I would say. Whereabouts was that? It's on the east coast of Australia. I live in Portugal now, but yeah, it was, I grew up on the east coast of Australia and, like a couple of hours south of Sydney in a little dairy farming, surfing, fishing community, called Gerringong. We had two beaches there. We have one just to the south in Ulla called Seven Mile Beach, which is probably like the most beginner, longboard friendly beach that I've ever been to. I would say like it's super mellow, really gradual sandbanks that just run like kind of a hundred or so meters and yeah, great for longboarding. Can be like six foot. I've literally never seen it barrel. It's just like always this like rolling whitewash wave. So good for learning, good for longboarding. The local beach is Werri Beach. So that's, yeah, that's got a point break at one end and a nice peaky little river mouth at the other end. And yeah, that was the stomping ground. The east coast of Australia is paradise for surfers. So why move to Europe, Portugal? I met my wife actually in Nicaragua and she's from Austria. And so when we were kind of trying to find a compromise on where to live, the compromise was Portugal. And yeah, I mean, for me, Portugal is kind of the closest you get to Australia, I guess that surf lifestyle and that surf culture. And yeah, when I moved over here, I lived in Amsterdam and worked in Amsterdam for a bit over a year, and then we traveled around Europe a bit. But yeah, I don't know. I kind of just found a place in Europe. Getting the business off the ground as I moved over here helped as well. It's kind of, I don't know, like there's obviously a big learn-to-surf culture in Australia, but it's more so in, I would say, the States and Central America and Europe. Morocco, Africa as well. So yeah, it's been like a good business move to live here as well. But, uh, yeah. Short answer there is love.Lachlan Campbell Yeah. I moved to London in 2008 and discovered Ericeira on trips. Man, what a magic place that was back then, at least. I dunno what it's like now, but the waves were—Michael Frampton It's still magic.Lachlan Campbell Yeah. It's a little bit—like, I'm in the south, I'm in the Algarve, so we have like a lot of beach breaks and stuff here. We have two coastlines, which kind of makes up for the lack of kind of reef and point breaks and stuff. But, and Peniche—I mean, the whole coastline is so good. Like, I've done a few trips now, like up to Galicia, which is in northwest Spain, and back down again and just sampled Portuguese coastline, and there's waves up and down the coast. A lot of people are concentrated around Ericeira and Peniche obviously, and the Algarve too, but plenty of waves all around. Yeah, it's good. Yeah. It's a good spot to live for surfers. Yeah.Michael Frampton Yeah. What's been your—what's your best piece of surfing advice that's helped you not only enjoy surfing but be a better surfer?Lachlan Campbell I think because I've been surfing for quite a long time now, and a lot of that progression when you're like a teenager—whether you're learning like a language or surfing—a lot of it is instinctual. So the whole technical element to surfing kind of only came to me later in life. And I'm not like technical with it at all. You know, I don't really do any coaching or anything like that. I find it interesting how people break it down, but to be honest, I'm that far gone now, I'm not even gonna try and correct some of my bad habits. But no, I think probably the biggest takeaway for me, definitely in adulthood, is how good a surf session is gonna be isn't actually determined by the waves. For me, it's expectation. It's about being grateful for just being in the water because I know—and I'm sure other surfers would know as well—the waves can be pumping, but if you are in maybe an over-frothed kind of pumped-up mood and you go out there and you're just paddling around trying to catch everything, you can come in and not get a wave or not get a good one. And I don't know, maybe just feel like a bit out of sync. Whereas if you go in some days where you're kind of expecting it to not be great, you just find like a little waist-high rip bowl or something, you can just have such a fun time just because your expectations had shifted and maybe you weren't really predetermining how the session should go. So yeah, I guess the biggest piece of surfing advice for me is just try and just get out there and maybe not think about it too much. Or I know as well, when I go out and maybe it's like pumping and I try to chase a specific type of wave, you kind of always end up being in the wrong spot at the wrong time. Surfing's weird like that. It's not something you can just—I dunno, this is why pro surfing would be such a nightmare because you can't just manufacture a wave, right? I mean, wave pools, but when you're in the ocean, you can't manufacture and make something come towards you. It just happens. And I think sometimes your—yeah, without getting too woo-woo—I think sometimes your mental state can influence that a little bit. So yeah, maybe surfing with no expectations and just being grateful for being out there. I mean, if you're in the water, you're not working, so—Michael Frampton Yeah, it's gotta be something to be grateful for, right?Lachlan Campbell Oh, I a hundred percent agree with that. The only expectation I have when I go surfing now is just to catch one wave.Michael Frampton You must be just stoked on every surf then you have.Lachlan Campbell Yep. Yeah, exactly. Just catch one wave. I think if you can manage your expectations to that. It's like the other day I went surfing and the waves were—it looked like it was pumping and I was, oh, I was excited. And then I paddled out there and the current and the backwash, it just was—the waves were so hard to catch and to surf. And it's just still like, just catch one wave, just catch one wave. Just kept reminding myself. And I only got one wave and I was stoked with it. So yeah, it's a big one.Michael Frampton Yeah.Lachlan Campbell That's a quality over quantity thing as well, right? I mean, you would've seen before, like some surfers will paddle out on a good day and just sit there and kind of wait and maybe only take like one or two good waves throughout the whole session. And yeah, some people will froth around, chase everything, can end up with nothing. So yeah, I think just to summarize that, yeah, good surfing maybe starts—or for me, a good session kind of starts before you even get in the water, which can be difficult because if you're all on a boat trip with your mates or on a surf camp or something with your partner or whatever, and you've been hyping it up for ages and then you finally get to a wave that's pumping, yeah, sometimes your expectations are met, but I think if you try and just, I don't know, just keep it a little bit level-headed, yeah, you'll end up having a good session.Michael Frampton Yeah. Oh, definitely. Yeah. So for most of us, surfing is not a sport. It's a pastime or an art form, so—Lachlan Campbell Mm-hmm.Michael Frampton There's no need to perform or surfer, no. A shortboard or did shifting to Europe, did that change the type of surfboard you ride?Lachlan Campbell Well, sure. So, I mean, I think it's still the same in Australia, let's say there's like a lineup with 20 people out. In Australia, 18 of them will be on a—I mean, it depends where you are. In Australia, let's say Byron Bay is a bit of an outlier, but other p…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    113 How To Surf Bigger Waves + A Guide To Surfing Big Waves Mar 27, 2025
    Show notes
    113 How To Surf Bigger Waves + A Guide To Surfing Big Waves Surf Mastery Podcast Download

    Are you drawn to bigger waves but unsure how to prepare for them—physically, mentally, and emotionally?

    In this solo episode, host Michael Frampton takes you behind the scenes of his first big wave experience—a 4.5-meter swell at an outer reef—and breaks down exactly what it took to be ready. If you’ve ever fantasized about chasing bigger sets but fear the consequences, this episode offers a realistic, no-BS look at the process.

    • Learn the step-by-step training that prepared Michael to survive and thrive in serious surf conditions.

    • Discover the tools, breathwork, and physical prep that separate survivors from statistics.

    • Get a raw, firsthand story of what it feels like to be caught in a rogue triple overhead clean-up set—and paddle back out.

    Hit play now to learn what it really takes to surf big waves safely and confidently, whether it’s a double-overhead local break or an outer reef monster.

    Key Points

    • Today's episode focuses on how to surf bigger waves, including big waves, with host Michael Frampton sharing his personal experience and steps taken to surf a four and a half meter swell at an outer reef.

    • Michael Frampton recounts his journey from a self-taught surfer in New Zealand to surfing big waves on the east coast of Australia, guided by his surf coach and mentor.

    • After six months of preparation, Michael Frampton received a text confirming he was ready to surf the outer reef, detailing the challenges faced during a massive rogue set of waves.

    • Michael Frampton describes the intense experience of being caught in massive triple overhead waves, emphasizing the physical and mental challenges of surfing such conditions.

    • Despite the difficulties, Michael Frampton managed to recover and paddle out, gaining a new appreciation for those who regularly surf big waves.

    • Step one in Michael Frampton's preparation involved acquiring a big wave gun and familiarizing himself with the board in various conditions.

    • Michael Frampton attended a breath hold course run by Nam Baldwin, focusing on underwater preparation and stress management techniques for big wave surfing.

    • Comprehensive strength training, gym work, and consistent surfing were integral parts of Michael Frampton's six-month preparation for big wave surfing.

    • Understanding the surf break, including diving to explore the underwater terrain, was a crucial step in Michael Frampton's preparation.

    • Michael Frampton emphasizes the importance of knowing one's limits, being patient, and trusting instincts when preparing to surf bigger waves.

    Outline

    Introduction to the Episode

    • The episode focuses on how to surf bigger waves, specifically big waves.

    • Michael Frampton, the host, shares personal experiences and insights on surfing big waves.

    • The episode aims to help passionate surfers catch more waves, surf with more speed, style, grace, and gain confidence in the water.

    Personal Experience with Big Wave Surfing

    • Michael Frampton recounts a personal experience of surfing a four and a half meter swell at an outer reef on the east coast of Australia.

    • The experience involved a clean-up set with massive triple overhead waves.

    • Michael describes the challenges faced, including being dragged underwater and the physical impact of landing at high speed.

    Steps to Prepare for Surfing Bigger Waves

    • Step one involves getting a big wave gun, the right equipment for the types of waves to be surfed.

    • Step two is attending a breath hold course run by Nam Baldwin, focusing on underwater prep and breathing techniques for managing anxiety and stress.

    • Six months of breath hold training and nervous system management training were part of the preparation.

    • Strength training, gym work, and regular surfing were essential to maintain fitness and agility.

    • Understanding the surf break itself is crucial, including diving to see what's under the break and discussing with experienced surfers.

    • Patience and knowing one's limits are emphasized, with a rule of thumb being if one is not comfortable swimming the conditions, they should not surf.

    Resources for Further Learning

    • For more details on the topics discussed, visit surfmastery.com and check out the Wave Catching Academy.

    • Free PDFs, blog posts, and a back catalogue of the Surf Mastery podcast are available for additional information.

    Transcription

    Today's episode is all about how to surf bigger waves—even big waves. Uh, welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast, the podcast that helps passionate, lifelong surfers to catch more waves, surf with more speed, style, grace, and to gain wisdom and confidence in the water. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and in today's episode, you're gonna learn all about how to surf bigger waves.

    Let me tell you about how I recovered from a cleanup set in a four-and-a-half meter swell at an outer reef. You know, ever since I started surfing, I've always been drawn to bigger waves, but it was never really a reality, sort of growing up as a self-taught surfer in the part of New Zealand where I was.

    But then, of course, I found myself living on the East Coast of Australia, and there was an outer reef that I'd seen break, and a friend of mine—my surf coach, my mentor—regularly did, and I decided I wanted to surf it. So he thankfully guided me through the process of preparing for that.

    And I remember—gosh—after six months of prep, leading up to these winter swells coming through, I got the text saying, "You're ready. It's on. See you out there." And I managed to get through the shore break, and just as I was getting to the takeoff zone, to the lineup, a massive rogue set came through.

    You know, the horizon started to go dark, everyone scrambled and paddled, and about five massive triple-overhead waves came through. Thankfully, they broke a bit further out than us, 'cause I can't imagine getting a lip of one of those on the head. But these huge—I just remember—just massive walls of white water just steamrolling through, dragging everyone hundreds of meters in, underwater for a long time, just being ripped apart. When waves are that big, literally the water is trying to rip your limbs off.

    But I managed to come up and recover from that and paddle out the back, do some breathing, regain some calmness. And I remember the first wave I paddled into—I under-paddled a little bit, got caught up in the lip, it threw me three-quarters of the way down the face. Landed. Felt like concrete when you're landing at that speed.

    Instant saltwater enema through the wetsuit—never clenched so hard in my life. Managed to recover from that as well, paddled back out, and then got three of the biggest waves I'd ever surfed in my life. And what an experience. Gosh. And a new appreciation was gained for those that regularly surf waves like that—and of course, a lot bigger.

    So let me take you through the steps that led me to that day.

    First of all, I was a pretty experienced surfer. I'd regularly surfed, you know, double-overhead waves, so I wasn't a stranger to decent-sized waves. And I had a mentor who guided me through it. These are the steps that I took.

    So, step number one was to get a big wave gun. You need the right equipment for the types of waves that you're going to surf. And then I surfed that board a lot—in all conditions: small waves, onshore waves, all conditions. Just really got familiar with that piece of equipment. So that was step one.

    Step two, I went to a breath-hold course. It was run by Nam Baldwin, and that was—we covered two things. There was underwater prep for surfing big waves specifically, but also breathing techniques for managing your anxiety and managing your stress levels. And then got to practice those learnings with a group. So there were six months of breath-hold training and nervous system management training that went into the preparation for that day.

    There was a lot of strength training, a lot of gym work, keeping strong, fit, agile—as well as a lot of surfing. So I was very surf-fit, paddle-fit.

    Step number four was understanding the surf break itself. It wasn’t the kind of break that broke in small waves, but there were a few swells where it kind of broke a little bit, so I got to surf it. I also did some diving—got some fins and a mask—and went out there and, you know, looked underneath. See what's under there. So really understanding the break was another important step.

    There was a lot of preparation and planning. There was a lot of discussion with surfers that had surfed that break. Like, where did they paddle out? What do they do if their leash breaks? And of course, I understood my limits. I wasn't doing this alone.

    So, be patient. You know, surfing is a long game, and preparing to surf bigger waves doesn't necessarily mean that you have to surf the next time that it's big. Trust your instincts. Know your limits.

    A good rule of thumb here is: if you're not comfortable swimming the conditions, definitely don't surf. Even brand new leg ropes can break.

    If you want to learn more about some of the details about what I talked about in today's episode and others, go to surfmastery.com and check out the Wave Catching Academy, where we go into a lot of details about all this stuff, plus a lot more.

    There are also free PDFs available at surfmastery.com, as well as blog posts. And of course, there is a back catalog of the Surf Mastery Podcast full of interviews and tips.

    Please share this episode with a friend if you enjoyed it, and give us a rating and a review—it would be great.

    Until next time, keep surfing.

    113 How To Surf Bigger Waves + A Guide To Surfing Big Waves

    For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.


    112 Mastering the Hardest Part of Surfing: Surf More Waves with Confidence Mar 27, 2025
    Show notes 112: Mastering the Hardest Part of Surfing: Surf More Waves with Confidence Surf Mastery Podcast Download

    Struggling to catch more waves and improve your takeoff? The hardest part of surfing isn’t turning or carving—it’s everything that happens before you even stand up. But what if you could master that crucial phase?

    Most self-taught surfers hit a frustrating plateau because they don’t fully understand wave reading, efficient paddling, or seamless pop-ups. Without these foundational skills, catching waves feels like a battle. This episode breaks down the real reasons behind your struggles and provides actionable fixes to transform your surfing experience.

    • Learn how to develop an obsession with wave reading so you can predict and position yourself perfectly.

    • Discover the key to efficient paddling and why a strong sprint paddle makes all the difference.

    • Shift your mindset to see surfing as starting from the paddle-in, making your takeoffs smoother and more powerful.

    Listen now to gain the skills and knowledge to finally catch more waves with ease and confidence!

    Key Points

    • The hardest part of surfing is getting to the right position on the wave with speed, which involves reading the wave, positioning, sprint paddling, and a well-timed pop-up.

    • Surfing mastery requires understanding that the process starts from the moment you paddle for the wave, not just when you pop up.

    • The solution to improving surfing is to become fascinated and obsessed with watching and predicting waves, even when not actively surfing.

    • Inefficient and weak paddling is a major mistake; improving paddling technique and strength is crucial for better surfing performance.

    • Surfing should be viewed as a continuous process from paddling to surfing, requiring a strong and agile pop-up to maintain stability and control.

    • Dry land training with surf-specific exercises is essential for improving the strength, mobility, and agility needed for a seamless pop-up.

    • The Wave Catching Academy offers a four-week course designed to help self-taught surfers understand and improve their surfing techniques.

    Outline

    Introduction to the Surf Mastery Podcast

    • The host, Michael Frampton, welcomes listeners to the Surf Mastery podcast, aimed at helping surfers catch more waves, surf with speed, style, and grace, and gain confidence in the water.

    • Michael emphasizes that the hardest part of surfing is getting to the right spot on the wave with speed, which involves reading the waves, positioning, paddling, and a well-timed takeoff or pop-up.

    Common Misconceptions About Improving Surfing Skills

    • Michael points out that listening to ex-pros talk about techniques or watching YouTube videos on surfing equipment will not help surfers catch more waves.

    • The focus should be on practical, in-water experience and understanding the dynamics of wave reading and positioning.

    The Importance of Fascination in Wave Reading

    • Michael suggests that surfers should become fascinated and obsessed with watching waves to improve their ability to predict and read them.

    • When waiting for a wave, surfers should practice predicting where the wave will break and observe other surfers to guess if they are positioning themselves correctly.

    Improving Paddling Technique

    • Michael identifies inefficient and weak paddling as a common mistake among surfers, advising listeners to improve their sprint paddle technique.

    • He recommends listening to episode 12 with Rob Case for insights into efficient movement and paddling, and suggests visiting Rob's YouTube channel for visual demonstrations.

    The Attitude of Integration in Surfing

    • Michael discusses the mistake of separating paddling for the wave from surfing the wave, advocating for an integrated approach where surfing starts with the paddle.

    • This perspective helps surfers get up to speed faster and be more adaptable if they mistime the pop-up, emphasizing the need for a strong and agile pop-up.

    Dry Land Training for Surfers

    • Michael highlights the importance of dry land training to improve strength, mobility, and agility for a seamless pop-up.

    • He mentions a free PDF on his website with the five best exercises for surfers and encourages serious surfers to join the Wave Catching Academy for more detailed tips and training.

    Wave Catching Academy

    • Michael introduces the Wave Catching Academy, a four-week course designed to help average self-taught surfers understand surfing better, catch more waves, and surf faster.

    • The course focuses on improving the process from when the surfboard is under the arm to when it is under the feet, with multiple links and details available for enrollment.

    Transcription

    Now, if you could click your fingers and magically appear standing on your surfboard with your feet in the right spot, and on the right part of the wave with speed, then surfing from that moment on is actually pretty easy. It's getting to that point that is the hardest part of surfing. It's reading the waves, it's positioning, it's the sprint paddles to get up to speed, and a well-timed takeoff or pop-up.

    That's the hardest part of surfing. All of those things. Everything from when your surfboard is under your arm to when the surfboard is under your feet. That is the hardest part of surfing. That's why it takes so long to master. That's why you are feeling frustrated. Listening to some ex-pro talk you through the technique of a will not help you catch more waves.

    Watching a YouTube infographic video on the difference between fins and rails by some faux British surf guru will not help you catch more waves. So in this episode, we're going to break down some of these real problems and give you some fixes. The first one being your lack of ability to predict and read the wave.

    Fascination is the fix here. Now, the age-old answer of how to get better at surfing is: surf more. Spend more time in the water. Now, that remains especially true here, because you have to watch and observe lots of waves. In order to make the most of your time in the water, when you're doing that, become fascinated and obsessed with watching.

    You have to practice predicting where the wave is going to break. So when you're sitting out the back, waiting your turn, or you're waiting for a set, be fascinated with reading the water and predicting where each wave will break. There's a wave coming in every 10 to 15 seconds, so watch. Mind surf the wave.

    If you see another surfer positioning themselves to catch a wave and attempting to catch the wave, guess whether you think they're doing it right. Should they have been deeper? Will they catch the wave? What could they have done better? If you were them, what would you have done? The time that we spend in the water not surfing is the bulk of our surfing experience.

    Now, that doesn't mean we can't get better at surfing during those times. So this is one way to do it. The second biggest mistake that surfers make here is inefficient and weak paddling. Your paddling technique probably sucks, and you don't have a strong sprint paddle. I'd say the majority of surfers fit into this category.

    We've all seen the surfer that paddles past us or the good surfer that just glides into the waves. That's because they move through the water with efficiency and they have a good, strong paddling stroke—especially the sprint paddle. The fix here is: just go and listen to Episode 12 with Rob Case, where he talks through the science of what efficient movement and paddling is.

    And of course, you can go to Rob's YouTube channel and get some visuals on that. The third biggest mistake when it comes to catching waves is having the attitude of separation. A lot of surfers think that there is a separation between paddling for the wave and surfing the wave. The fix for this—and this is the one perspective that helped my surfing more than anything else—is that surfing starts when you paddle for the wave.

    So instead of paddling into the wave, paddle down the wave or across the wave as if you're already surfing. This attitude and perspective will help you get up to speed faster, and will also help you be more adaptable if you mistime the pop-up itself. Because if you miss the ideal window to pop up, it doesn't matter, because you're already surfing.

    In order to do that, you need to have a very strong and agile pop-up as well. Your ability to keep the surfboard nice and stable and planing through the water without any drastic changes of direction is key here. So having enough strength and mobility to be able to do that—to go from having your weight in that prone position, weight on your chest, to weight on your hands and transferring that weight from your hands to your feet seamlessly without losing any feel or control of the surfboard—is the only way to improve this.

    And the only way to get better at that is dry land training. Surf-specific dry land training. Exercises to improve the strength, mobility, and agility of the pop-up. There is a free PDF on my website called The 5 Best Exercises for Surfers. That will get you started. And if you're really serious about taking your surfing to the next level, and you're sick and tired of the shame and frustration of not having understood surfing yet, and you want to overcome your current plateau as a self-taught surfer, then join the next cohort of the Wave Catching Academy, where we go into details on these tips, plus a whole lot more.

    112: Mastering the Hardest Part of Surfing: Surf More Waves with Confidence

    For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced.


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