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    Education

    Podcast – SURF MASTERY

    We interview the best surfers in the world and the people behind them, so surfers can learn ways to improve their own surfing. The podcast is targeted to open-minded surfers who want to improve and progress their surfing as well as enhance their surf longevity & health. Each interview will educate the listener on ways to refine and progress their surfing and/or increase their surf longevity.

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    Latest Episodes:
    131 Why You’re Missing Waves (and What the Pros See That You Don’t) Nov 25, 2025
    Show notes

    131 Why You’re Missing Waves (and What the Pros See That You Don’t) Surf Mastery Podcast Download Are you truly reading the wave, or just watching water move? Discover how paying attention to the ocean’s smallest details could completely transform your surfing.If you’ve ever felt stuck in your surf progression, unsure why better technique isn’t getting better results, this episode is your wake-up call. It’s not just about turning sharper or paddling harder, it’s about changing how you see the ocean. Whether you’re an intermediate surfer or decades in, understanding how to focus and read the wave can be the game-changer you’ve been missing.Learn how world-class surfers like Tom Carroll gain a massive edge by spotting secondary swells, backwashes, and subtle refractions that most surfers miss.Discover why your technique won’t matter if you can’t focus and how mindfulness and meditation off the board can level up your performance on it.Shift your entire relationship with surfing by embracing a personal surfing philosophy rooted in joy, longevity, and self-defined progression - not surf industry hype.Press play to learn how changing your mindset and mastering wave reading can unlock deeper flow, better waves, and more fulfilling sessions in any surf condition.131Michael Frampton: [00:00:00] What helped my surfing the most was looking for the details in the wave because I think it's so easy to get lost while you're surfing. A lot of the time you spend either paddling or just sitting there waiting. If you don't have the ability to read the wave properly, technique's not gonna help you.That is the hardest part of surfing, knowing where to go. 99% of your time surfing. Is not spent surfing. It's paddling around and looking for waves and sitting there staring at the ocean. Welcome back to the Surf Mastery Podcast, education and Inspiration for Better Surfing. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and that was a quote from when I was interviewed for the surf.Basis podcast. A podcast very similar to this one. I interviewed Van who hosts and produces the podcast, uh, back in episode 1, 2, 3, and he interviewed me for his show. So today I am releasing that conversation, which originally appeared. On the Surf basis podcast. Van Vu: Alright, welcome to the Basis Surf [00:01:00] podcast.Very excited because today we got Michael Frampton of the Surf Mastery Podcast. He is one of the OGs in this space. I think you've interviewed over 120 guests at this point. You were one of the original inspirations when I started my podcast as well. 'cause there's just a, a wealth of knowledge in your podcast and in you, yourself as a coach.Um, and I know you have. Courses as well. But, uh, very excited to get into it, try to extract all the little nuggets that you've picked up over talking to all these people and yeah, so thanks for joining. Thank you so much, fan. It's, it's an honor. Cool. Well, why don't we just dive straight in. I mean, you know, there's a million angles that we could take from this, but I, I think where the place I want to start is, you know, you've interviewed over 120 guests at this point.What have been kind of the best nuggets, best pieces of wisdom, best pieces of advice that you've, you've been able to get over all these interviews Michael Frampton: at this point? Yeah. Straight into it. Okay. The thing, what helped my surfing the most was I immediately think [00:02:00] of Tom Carroll. I was lucky enough to be. When I started the podcast, I was actually training Tom Carroll as a personal trainer in the gym, and he was the second guest, number two.And one of the things he was talking about in that original interview was looking for the details in the wave, and that stuck with me back then back in 2015, as something that I'm constantly trying to improve on is looking for the details and the wave and what Tom meant by that. What I'm still learning is when you're looking at the wave, most people think that there's a wave coming in or there's a, you know, there's a, a one meter swell at 15 seconds and that when that wave hits the beach or the point and it breaks along, that's what we surf.Yes, that's the main wave. But there back washes, there are secondary and tertiary swells. There's wind chop. There's refractions coming off headlands, even [00:03:00] from miles away, that interact with that main wave. And when we start to see, when we look for, and we start to see those smaller details in the waves, then that's what allows, I mean, surf what and what, um, what fascinated me the most was Tom would've been.This is, you know, 10 years ago, so I was what, 34? And Tom, Tom would've been like 52 probably. And we went surfing and he's on a smaller surfboard than me, just on these probably waist high waves. At a soft beach break. I was struggling to paddle into the waves. I couldn't even catch these waves, and he's doing full roundhouse cutbacks, just going a hundred miles an hour.I just couldn't work it out. Like, how are you doing that? Mm-hmm. Obviously, he's a pro and he's been doing it a long time, but. We got to break it down and it was because he's looking for the [00:04:00] details. Van Vu: Yeah. Michael Frampton: He, he's looking at how the, that wind chop, that's where I'm gonna put the rail on my surfboard, right inside that wind chop or that refracted wave.And I'm gonna choose the wave that's meeting. The main swell and kind of wedging up a little bit. That's where I'm gonna chip in and paddle into the wave in the first place. And I wasn't even aware that that's what was going on in surfing until he, he pointed that out. So that was definitely a, a huge nugget and something that I'm always looking for as those real, those just minor little details.Sometimes when the, at, uh, when the sun's low on the horizon, it's really easy to see. But when the sun's straight up in the sky and the water's murky, it's so hard to see the multiple swells and the wind chops and the water, et cetera. Also, just the way the water moves, like especially in the, some of the beaches in Australia at the time, you get little, they call it a rip bowl, where there's a rip running sort of alongside the, the, the beach break.The [00:05:00] beach break, and then as the wave's coming in, there's also water drawing. Underneath the wave two. So your board speed is actually faster than the wave's actually going. It's almost acting like a, a wave moving towards the beach as well as a standing wave. So looking for the waves that are doing that more in the set.So the first wave of the set at a rip bowl is gonna, that's, that's gonna be more powerful 'cause there's actually more water drawing back out from the previous set. There's so many of those little details in surfing. We just don't see as beginners and even as intermediates. Gosh, even, you know, I, I coach a lot of surfers that just have never even thought they've been surfing for 20 years and never even thought or realized it and what.Part of the reason Tom learned that is because he grew up in a surfing rich culture where his dad surfed and his uncle surfed and his best mates, they all surfed. So they were constantly talking about all this stuff and analyzing each other and surfing different waves. [00:06:00] So, as. Me, I didn't start surfing until I was 17 and I was completely self-taught and we went, when we went to the beach, there was no one else there, there was no one to learn from.All I had was the magazines, which was all, you know, glorified, glorified performance surfing. So that that little nugget, looking for the details in the wave, that that helped a lot. And I often use the analogy of imagine a mountain biker cruising down a. Down a hill, down a track that's say a meter wide, well, an amateur mountain biker just trying to get down the track using that meter wide track.But the pro mountain biker is looking, where is the center of my tire going on that track? And what's the fastest way? With the least amount of resistance, the track within the track. So that's what I'm constantly trying to look for when I'm surfing. It does another thing, which I think is really important, which segues into the second point, which is it, it allows you to be more present.So I remember interviewing [00:07:00] Matt Griggs, who was Mick Fanning's original trainer, uh, with the Rip Curl team, and he was big on meditation. Uh, the mindfulness meditation was kely meditation side of things, and then also interviewing Dr. Michael Vet. Who's the sports psychologist for the Red Bull team, who's also big on the meditation side of things and focusing, focusing on one thing, like your life depends on, it is a, a, not quite the word for word, but it's a quote from him.So. When you start looking for the details in the wave, it helps you to do that as well. 'cause I think it's so easy to get lost while while you're surfing. You, a lot of the time you spend either paddling or just sitting there waiting, so you kind of get lost and then all of a sudden a wave comes and you're expected to just all of a sudden focus in on all this craziness that's going on.So learning to to, to meditate outside of the water helped a actually helped a lot. 'cause that's just a [00:08:00] refocusing every time you see your mind sort of drifting off, you, you refocus the ability to, to do that. And then when you're in the ocean, you're focusing on the details in the water. And I think it's, you know, 'cause when you're sitting there waiting for a set to come, another big thing, I remember interviewing Nathan Hedge.I don't think he talked about it specifically, but I remember surfing with Nathan Hedge. It on the, on the Sydney beaches. And we'd be sitting, everyone would be sitting there waiting for a set, and then all of a sudden you see Nathan start paddling. It's like, wow. Why is he paddling? There's no set coming, and then five seconds later, everyone else sees the set coming and starts paddling.But Nathan's already, not only has he seen the set before us, he's paddling to where that first wave of the set is going to break because he's just seen it before everyone else. So what has he seen? Well, he is been looking, he's been staring at that little sliver of horizon, right? And when you're sitting there at, you know, you're just above water level, it literally [00:09:00] is like a tiny little sliver of horizon that you're looking at.Nathan's looking at the tiniest little details. If he sees a, this little, like a, you imagine a a 20 cent coin reflecting three kilometers away, he see, he's seen that or he is seen that slight lump. Right on the horizon. And he's, because of his experience combined with, he's actually focused on looking, he's so hungry.I want that wave. I want the next set. I want to be first. He's so hungry for it and so focused that he sees it coming first. And again, it's looking for the details, not just in the wave that you're surfing, but while you're waiting, like can you see that set coming before anyone else? Is it an indicator on the headland and the distance?Is it a shimmer of a, of a chop being lifted by a set coming further than further out than you imagined? Is it a shadow of a set hitting a, a slightly shallower part of the, [00:10:00] of the top, uh, of the oceanography? You know, further out all these little finer details that not only help us to predict 'cause it's a game of what predicting when and where.To catch a wave that's the best surfer. That's what the best surfers do, right? They predict when and where the wave is gonna break before anyone else, and on a finer detail than anyone else. You can't do that if you can't focus. So looking for the details in the wave and in the ocean as those sets come in combined with increasing.One's ability to focus and stay present. Those are the two biggest things that come to mind when you ask that question, because that's the, the basis, the foundation of surfing. Right. Is can I see? The wave coming, can I get to where it's going to start break before anyone else ideally. 'cause it's usually crowded and even if it's not crowded, you know the earlier and the better po you are positioning, the more you're gonna get outta that wave.So yeah, that, that was, [00:11:00] those are two, the two things that come to mind. Yeah, Van Vu: no, those are, those are great. You know, I think it's so interesting that you mentioned that. I was interviewing Isaac Stanton. He is from the Northshore, uh, no, he is from Maui, big wave surfer over there and competitive surfer. And he talks about how surfing is just advanced basics.And what does that mean though? Like surfing. And I was talking to Marcello Castellano, like Olympic surf coach and he is like, people get so obsessed with doing a turn, you're just changing direction on a surfboard. But to actually change direction on a surfboard at high speed, you know, on rail is this incredibly intricate, difficult thing to do, but it's simple at the same time.There's just so many deeper, it just gets deeper and deeper and deeper and deeper The further you go into it, even though on its surface it seems like this very simple thing, and that's exactly what you're talking about, right? Most people look at a wave like you were sitting on that beach with Tom Carroll, and you're looking at that wave and you're like, oh, that's a wave.And then Tom Carroll sees like a [00:12:00] million things going on in that wave, you know? And. Whoever can interpret and understand all these little subtleties, they're just gonna, they're just gonna have this advantage. And I think it's so true. I mean, I think that that is actually why I was inspired by your podcast, because there wasn't much in terms of surf.Really granular surf knowledge out there. Um, and that's the reason why I ask such detailed questions as well. It's because you have to get into like the nitty gritty of things to really get the juice and get the value right. And so what you're saying makes so much sense. And it's funny that you also balance it at the same time with that, that need to focus it, right?Because there is so much, it's this weird, you know, dynamic that you're constantly trying to manage. Where it's incredibly complicated and dense and nuanced, but that can be so overwhelming that that can inhibit people from doing the next best thing that they should be [00:13:00] doing, and they can get overwhelmed.And then that leads to like analysis paralysis. So you need to both have all that knowledge. But then also be able to focus and use that knowledge when necessary at the right moment in time. And so your focus as well, that other pieces that you mentioned about knowing how to focus, knowing how to quiet your mind becomes like so instrumental when you're also combining it with.Having all this huge, you know, having so much knowledge and trying to find all these details, but they kind of go together, right? It's like meditation, like, you know, when you meditate you're actually trying to feel as much sensation and observe as much fine details as you can, and that process allows you to focus.But that's, that's, so that's really interesting that you brought those two up. You know, most of the time when, if. I was gonna ask that question. You know, it would pr…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    130 How Details Transform Surfing, Self-Talk & Relationships with Kyle Thiermann Nov 19, 2025
    Show notes

    130 How Details Transform Surfing, Self-Talk & Relationships with Kyle Thiermann Surf Mastery Podcast Download What if the key to mastering any craft - surfing, storytelling, relationships, or even table tennis - lies in simply slowing down and noticing the smallest details?In a fast-paced world that often rewards intensity and output, we easily overlook the quiet power of presence and reflection. Whether you're navigating the chaos of Mavericks or confronting inner narratives, this episode reveals how attention to detail can reshape not just your performance, but your perspective on life itself.Discover why focusing on one small detail - like the placement of your back foot - can dramatically improve your surf sessions and silence self-doubt.Learn how table tennis taught Kyle Thiermann a life-altering lesson about humility, ego, and mastery that spills over into his big wave surfing.Explore how interviewing his parents not only led to his new book but also transformed his relationships and deepened his empathy through the art of asking better questions.Listen now to uncover how Kyle Thiermann’s philosophy of detail and reflection can elevate not just your surfing, but your entire approach to growth and connection.Kyles' - Book: https://geni.us/onelastqbeforeyougoWebsite: https://www.kylethiermann.comInsta: https://www.instagram.com/kyle_tman/Kyle was first on the show in 2018 - episode 27Kyle Thiermann is a surfer, podcast host, and author of One Last Question Before You Go, a book about why you should interview your parents.Music: Leo Meizoso - Soul Elegance Michael Frampton: Kyle Thiermann is a writer, podcast host sponsored surfer for Patagonia, and most recently a published author, which is very cool and a book I am excited to talk about. But before we get into the book, I was just looking through the notes of our first podcast back in 2018 and the most important advice that I took away from that interview, you probably don't remember it was quite some time ago, but was basically to slow down and look for the details, which reiterated.Something that Tom Carroll said the year before that he was guest number two on the podcast. And that's what he said. He said, look at the details. 'cause the, what sparked the conversation with Tom was, Tom was, you know, a good 10, 15 years older than me, and we went surfing before I interviewed him. And the waves were maybe waist high, high tide, no water, drawing off the bottom.And here's this old man like doing full roundhouse cutbacks on waves that I couldn't even catch. And I was scratching my head. He's like, I can't even catch these waves. If I do, I'm like pumping, just trying to stay with it. And you're just flowing these beautiful round out, like, what is going on? What am I missing?And he's just like, oh, it's just, you gotta look for the details. You go look for the little ripples and the secondary swells and the back washes and it's like trying to get blood out of a stone, surfing small waves. And if you don't have an eye for the finer details. You'll never do it. So it was really cool to, to have you sort of reiterate it as well.And the question I have that comes off the back of that is, is that still your philosophy in surfing and in other parts of life? How has that changed? How has that evolved? Are you still looking for the details and trying to slow down in surfing? What's been going on since we last spoke? Kyle Thiermann: I love that you checked out our last podcast because, , that's great advice that I should still give myself, uh, younger, wiser, Kyle Thiermann, uh, said that, and it's a very good reminder, uh, particularly, you know, if we want to take this concept of looking at the details specifically to surfing.I find that my worst sessions are when I I'm thinking too broadly about myself as a surfer. As an example, take off on the first wave, , try and hit the lip mistime it fall. All of a sudden this flood, and maybe it was just me, but this like flood of negative narrative enters my brain. Like I was never that good at surfing.I, my best days are behind me. , , this board doesn't work. Like these grand brush strokes of negativity can often, , build just a, a narrative that can ruin a session. , And, what's in common about all of those narratives are that they're too broad, right? That you're thinking about yourself generally.And I think one of the best antidotes to negative self-talk is to look at the details. So, okay, now I'm gonna take off on this next wave and I'm just gonna think about. Where my back foot is placed on my pad. I, I find that that's actually one of the healthiest things for me to think about when I'm taking off on a wave is where is my back foot, because that's the control center of surfing.I grew up, um, actually before I started surfing, started surfing when I was maybe 10, 11 years old. Uh, but before then, I was a really serious skateboarder. And still, you know, I had halfpipes in my backyard growing up. My older brother built this crazy six foot, six foot halfpipe with a seven foot extension.So growing up in Santa Cruz, I was very much a, a, a, a multi-sport athlete and the bad habit of skateboarding. , That can transfer to surfing and it transfer to my surfing is that you put too much weight on your front foot. , 'Cause skateboarding is when, when you're pushing down on a halfpipe, when you know, you, you are more centered over your front foot.Whereas surfing the control center is in the back. So it's something that I've really had to fight my whole life. Um, a bad habit to break. And even still, when I surf, I can just focus on the back pad. Okay, where's my back foot? That's a small detail I can think about throughout a wave. And suddenly, because I'm thinking about that, I can't think about this bigger narrative of how good I am as a surfer, which is not gonna help you improve at all.You can take all those details just focusing on one thing. You know, I think a, a, a great theme of your podcast really is. Breaking apart this vexing craft of surfing into these smaller and smaller bite-sized chunks. And that's how improvement happens, , from an athletic standpoint. And it's how improvement happens from really any task that you want to take on extrapolating that concept out to, , writing, which is, uh, uh, um, what I've been focusing on quite a lot over the last few years, if I'm looking for a story to report, I was just down in Porto Escondido reporting a story for the Surfer's Journal.It's gonna come out in a number of months. All I'm looking for is details. The, the thing that we hate reading about are generalities. The thing we love is, is reading about details. The best writers are always writing with their five senses. What is the, what did the streets smell like? How hot was it that day?What did it actually feel like to be there? And it's, . Quite profound what being more specific with your thoughts can do for happiness. Michael Frampton: Broadly speaking, do you think that just makes you more present in the present moment? Kyle Thiermann: Absolutely. Absolutely. And I think it also gets you out of your own head if you're just thinking about the tactile feeling of what's around you, the board, the waves., You're, it's really hard to think about yourself generally, and a lot of, uh, suffering that happens and a lot of just bad sessions, bad surf sessions are the result of you thinking about yourself too much. Michael Frampton: . Usually in the past or pre or future as well. When you, when you feel you get stuck in your head, you're usually thinking you're judging yourself of how others might think of you, which is something that is maybe happened in the past or is about to happen in the future.Kyle Thiermann: Oh yeah. It's just imaginary arguments in our heads. Yeah. All day long. Right. And, and one of the best things about surfing, and the reason I've been addicted to it since I was 10 years old and still do it on a, a practically regular basis, is that it is one of the best ways to get out of our own head, because there's just so much going on, you know, and, and, um, I, one of my favorite things to do is take nons surfers out surfing for their first session because it's like.It's like taking someone on their first acid trip or something, they're like, whoa, I had no idea this thing, this whole thing even existed. They're so outside of this, um, conventional context, you know, the day-to-day on the phone, standing upright on your feet, on solid ground, like we've all experienced that if we take someone surfing that sense of awe that they get, and it, it can be easy to forget that when we be, when surfing becomes a more normalized and habitual thing for us., And I think it can take more effort to get out of our own way, , and into those little detailed moments. Michael Frampton: Yeah. Is it the only way that you can surf Mavericks? Kyle Thiermann: Well,if you're surfing Mavericks and you are distracted from what's happening right in front of you, you're gonna get yourself in a lot of trouble really quickly. It's very easy for that to happen because a lot of times if you're out surfing any big wave, you know, you might catch only one or two waves that session, right?When you're surfing big waves of any kind, chances are, you know, unless you're Kai Lenny, you're not gonna catch that many waves per session. And as a result, there's a lot of time sitting. Uh, and in that sitting time you can start to daydream, uh, certain narratives. And one of the best things that, that I've found is to just try and stay focused on the tactile feeling of being out there, you know, cold water on the face.How do I feel in my body? Paddle strokes. Like, and, and for that reason, I have a real hard time going out to big waves on a boat and just jumping straight in the lineup because I, I feel that I don't get that warmup period of paddling out through Whitewater and just getting sens sensitized to my body.You know, it's a pretty weird thing that you can go out to a place like Mavs on a boat, paddle 15 strokes, and all of a sudden you're in 50 foot waves. Like that shouldn't happen. Right. You just feel like you're like dropped into a, a completely different atmosphere and uh, yeah. I mean, if I ever take a boat out there, I always make sure to paddle around a little bit, go underwater, do a few breath holes, and just get into the feeling of this new environment.Michael Frampton: , I imagine it. I just had a, a, a, a picture of, you know, when you, you're at a concert and you want to go to the front, your favorite band's about to come on and you want to, and you have to pick a line through just chaos. Pure chaos. Kyle Thiermann: Yeah. Yeah. Michael Frampton: And if you, and if you focus on the crowd and the different individuals, and it almost seems like there's no way through when it's just so overwhelming.But if you just try and look for the gaps in the crowd and be polite and make your way through, you end up. Navigating all of this chaos and you achieve your goal. I imagine that's what negotiating a drop at Mavericks is. Like, if you don't choose exactly where the center of your board is going to go, you might get clipped.Do you have to sort of ignore the, the, the chaos in a certain way? Or are you trying to Oh, a hundred Kyle Thiermann: percent. Yeah, a hundred percent. And, uh, you know, I once did a podcast, uh, with Grant Washburn, who's, who's Surfed Mavericks more times than anyone ever. I I think he, he's documented every session. He's been out there more than a thousand times.He was part of the really early crew to be out there, and he's still out there literally every time it breaks. I mean, this guy is one of surfing's most underground s of all time Grant Washburn. And I, I had him on my podcast and was, um, asking him about like, what do you, you know, what tips do you have?And he said, uh, Maverick's is a wave that you gotta cut off at the knees. And I was like, what do you mean by that? He's like, it's a slab. So you can't be on top of the wave when you're, when you are dropping in, you actually have to, like, you wanna be taking off on that wave, like you're cutting it off at the knees.Like taking, if, if Maverick's is a giant, you wanna be dropping in and the knees of that giant and it'll look like you're taking off from the top of it. But that was a really big unlock for me, surfing that wave, because how you fall out there is you, you are not paddling hard enough and you think that you're in the right spot, but really you're on top of the lip and then you're coming down with the lip, right?You need to be lower on a big wave than you think you are, um, to actually make that drop. So that changed where I was looking when I was paddling for waves. Now, if I'm, if I'm paddling, if down the face. The 20, 30 foot wave, I'm looking at the bottom of that wave. So directly in my line of sight, I'm, I'm looking at the trough saying I'm going to get there, like I'm sprint paddling to the bottom of the wave on camera.Then it looks like you're on the top of the wave because that water's sucking up so fast. But if you're not really putting all of your energy down the face, you're gonna be farked. And there was a whole season where I was just, I was going, I was just, um, poking my nose on like every wave. It was a, I had the wrong board and I was not thinking about that directly.And it was like, holy shit, am I one of those wipe out guys? Like, am I like one of those? I was like, I was, and it was fucking with me. I was like, I. I don't feel like I'm a kook. Like there are, there are kooks that surf mavericks who are really just not good surfers, and they yard sail on most waves. They go on and, and shouldn't be out there, but they, whatever, they're gladiators.Like, I'm not gonna tell 'em not to do it. Um, but it's not well respected. Like you're falling on every wave. Something's something should change. You shouldn't be celebrating all of your fucking wipe outs on big waves. Like it's dangerous. It's putting other people in danger. Like you should have a, you should have a pretty good batting average if you're gonna be doing this consistently.So there's this whole season where I was like. Dude, what is wrong with it? Like, I just keep falling. And part of the reason was that I, I was on a board that had two beaked of a nose, so it was poking down on the convex of the wave. But also I was just, I was just focusing on the wrong things. Like I just, I was not looking in the right spot.And it, you know, surfing bigger waves is on the face of it very simple because you are just going straight essentially, or maybe doing a big bottom turn. Um, and you can get lucky, you know, a very average surfer can paddle into it, a huge wave. But for the guys that are really good at it, , there's a, there's a delicate dance and there's so many details that are, that they're taking into account that you are, that you're just not seeing.And it's a, a very, , high performance sport, , under the hood. Michael Frampton: . Did any of those realizations at mavericks inform your small wave surfing?Kyle Thiermann: Hmm, good question. Yeah, I mean, I love talking about small wave surfing because that's what I do all the time and, and people don't really ask me about it, you know, I…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    129 Lineup Strategy, Surfing Technique and Reading the Ocean with Surf Coach Matt Scorringe Nov 12, 2025
    Show notes

    129 Lineup Strategy, Surfing Technique and Reading the Ocean with Surf Coach Matt Scorringe Surf Mastery Podcast Download What if the key to unlocking your best surfing isn’t how you ride a wave - but how you read the ocean before you even paddle for it?Whether you're a seasoned surfer or just stepping up to steeper waves, too many of us overlook the 99% of surfing that happens off the board. In this eye-opening episode, elite surf coach Matt Scorringe shares why ocean knowledge - not tricks or turns - is the hidden edge that separates good surfers from great ones. If you’ve ever felt lost in the lineup, struggled with wave selection, or wondered how top surfers always seem to be in the right spot, this conversation is for you.Discover the missing piece in most surf coaching: how reading the ocean gives you faster decision-making, greater confidence, and better waves.Learn how to turn crowded lineups into a game of strategy, not frustration, using Matt’s unique “first line of defense” approach.Explore how treating the ocean like a playground—not a proving ground - can unlock more joy, progression, and long-term success in your surfing journey.Hit play now to learn how rethinking your approach to wave reading and lineup dynamics can instantly elevate your surfing experience.https://www.theartofsurfing.comUse Discount Code: "surfmastery25" for 25% discount on Matts Academy and Remote coaching program.Matts Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/mattyscorringe/?hl=enTranscript: Michael Frampton: yeah, it is. I actually think that most surf courses miss the mark anyway because 99% of your time when you are surfing is not surfing. You are, you're literally paddling around or sitting there reading the ocean, trying to stay focused on the horizon, trying to decipher you look at this little sliver of ocean.Are you gonna paddle over there to get the wave off the crowd or are you gonna paddle over there? Do you want that wave? What's the wind doing? How many swells are in the water? Like all that stuff that makes you a great surfer. People, people don't focus on it. So I actually, I actually released a course that's all about how to read waves.There's nothing Yeah. To do with basically what happens between when the surfboard is under your arm and under your feet. Yeah. Because once you're on to your feet, that's been done to death. And yeah. I wanna segue that into what, in terms of like reading the ocean and reading water, , do you coach people on some of your elites on that sort of stuff?Do you spend much time on it? What are your thoughts? Matt Scorringe : Yeah, absolutely. I mean, with regards to like more high performance athletes that I train, you know, there's a clear, difference between those that have, that really do and those that don't. So again, once on feet, both equally fantastic surfers, but one just has a higher level of ocean knowledge and understanding and, and able to read and, you know, you run.Drill after drill on scenario after scenario and pressure situation after pressure situation and all of that ocean knowledge just, um, you know, means obviously they're gonna read the ocean better, but their confidence is higher and their decision making processes are faster because of the nuances that they're picking up and processing and, and making decisions on to get those waves that go underneath for that wave that didn't look like maybe an opportunity to the other surfer.Uh, and then if you drop it down to like more of my everyday clientele, uh, and a lot of my online clientele with, you know, the, the academy membership or my remote coaching, um, a massive part of what I try and get them to do is actually film more of them. With, uh, a camera that's like not on wave, just them roaming the ocean and, and looking to catch waves.So, you know, zoom it out, push record and let it sit there and have your GPS tracker. And it's amazing what learnings come from that, that you can just pick up, um, that you wouldn't otherwise. And yeah, it's a huge, huge pillar that is really overlooked in most coaching scenarios. Uh, and if you've got someone on a one on one lesson for an hour and a half, like there's only so much you can do in that time, right?Like, hey, this is the day's conditions, this is where the rip is, this is the kind of, you know, the period. And, um, this is kind of where the bank is. , And you can assess what you, you might want to in that moment, but really you're getting such a small snapshot of the, their, their decision making and their, their ocean knowledge., So I, I really enjoy having more of a longer. Time with my remote coaching clientele to actually assess that, give them, you know, training drills and strategies and games. I, I call them games to play, and then they can go out and start to do their own assessments of those outcomes. And that's really my ultimate goal is to teach self-assessment., And to play with different, different, uh, strategies in the ocean to, to learn, you know, I mean, when we're kids, we learn about the ocean through play. Like we're jumping in the shore break, we're swimming in the rip, we're, you know, boogie boarding along closeouts with the boys and you know, that's where you understand all of those, those things that the ocean, uh, teach you.Michael Frampton: , Yeah. Most great surfers had that childhood early on where they, yeah, there was no pressure to even stand up on a surfboard. It's just, just messing around in the ocean. Yeah, makes me think of Wingnut. I interviewed Wingnut a few years ago and he didn't start surfing till he was 17, and I thought that that's such a unique case.Someone's starting surfing so late and becoming so good at it. That didn't make sense to me. I almost didn't believe him. But then he told me he had been body surfing since he was five, and I was like, ah, of course. Yeah, you've got already got the wave, the wave knowledge, the, the way you read water is already there.That's, that's your fundamental school. You're comfortable in the ocean. 'cause surfing, when you think about it, one, once you're on your feet, it's not actually that hard. I mean, look at, look at someone like OIE who barely even, and John, John too. They barely move their bodies at all, right? Yeah, yeah. Kelly's unique.He moves his body all over the place. But someone like AKI is just that, that those subtle movements of changes of balance and direction and it's amazing how you technically, you could be really stiff and inflexible. And not move that much and still be a great surfer, but only if you can stand, get to your feet in the right part of the wave on a good wave with, and then have good timing.And it all essentially comes from reading, reading the ocean and being comfortable in the ocean. Matt Scorringe : Yeah, no, I, I, I agree. I mean, really when you distill, uh, technical surfing on a wave, and sometimes, you know, I, with the, the profession I'm in and other coaches you are sort of, do people not see how simple this technical piece is that they're missing?Right. And obviously we have trained eyes, so, , I say that respectfully or lightly, that you're like, it's amazing. People still will look at their own footage and not identify, Hey, your back arm is, you know, really low when you swing through your twist. So if we can get that higher, it's gonna open up your chest rotation.So there's those things technically. , But they're so much more easier and obvious to really see for anyone. And once you teach them that they can see it themselves and they see it in other surfers., But the ocean is, it's, you know, easy to say to an adult or a late starting client, you need to have had all this experience as a kid, right?And you haven't, so it's gonna be hard. And, and that's, that's really demotivating for them. So, you know, I try to change it around to, uh, you have to pretend you're a kid again. You have to treat the ocean like a playground, and you need to be, you know, very wasteful and okay with falling and failure in the process of learning how the ocean moves, uh, obviously within a realm of safety and don't sort of paddle out to, um, you know, a, a big reef break and sort of just muck around if it's, it's beyond your sort of capabilities, but at your local, at, at your, your local beach break or just learning an environment., It's all about, yeah, in my opinion, having. Like, I've got these strategies I use to teach them how to, you know, understand crowd movement too, and manage, , you know, a, a way to kind of work around that and option A, B, C, D, but also just treat it like a game. So if option a's not working, learn from it, move to B and so on, and be wasteful of that session when it's crowded.Like, okay, it's crowded anyway, so if I get a couple, that's gonna be a great day. So I might as well have a little trial and error of this strategy. Uh, let's see if this works. I mean, I do it myself all the time, like when I travel and I, I surf as a point a lot or padang when I'm in Bali. , You know, I'm literally going through my strategies and trying, and some days strategy A will just work straight away and I'm, I'm on and I think, oh, how good's this?Like, you know, I found a little little gap in the, in the, the chaos out here. And then other days, you know, I get to strategy C or D before I'm like, wow, that's. That those other ones really aren't working today. Like there's five or 6, 7, 8, 10, 15 other people playing the same game as me right now. I need, I need to, I need to shift, you know, and I need to try something different.And sometimes none of them work too, but you know, you, you gotta almost smile and have fun with it in those moments. Michael Frampton: Yeah, that's, I mean, that's great advice for anyone starting surfing is just play. Just don't put pressure on yourself to perform at all. It's really important. But you also mentioned crowd stuff, which segues into something else I wanted to discuss, which is etiquette.Any of those strategies you mentioned,, consider etiquette. What are your thoughts on etiquette? , Have you seen any of the recent, um, social media stuff? I mean, get stabbed at an article recently about kooks and Barley and Surfline did a little thing about being closest to the peak and there's been a, a few Instagram, , influences, you know, chatting about it.And I interviewed Holly Beck about it, , a couple of weeks ago as well. So what are your thoughts on et. Matt Scorringe : Well, I mean, at the core of etiquette, that comes down to, , surfing with respect for others. Right? And, and so my thoughts on etiquette is it needs, there needs to be etiquette. , What are the rules?And, and, and, you know, what, what dictates the right way to do it. , I know it's gonna start with an answer that sounds like top level, , but it is so dependent on situation, , the wave type, the level of the surface. So a lot of the strategies I teach clients, , start with clearly assessment, you know, tools to assess what a pack is doing., One of the, one of the more effective ones is I what I call identifying the first line of defense. So I kind of have these sort of analogies that tie into war because when you go out there sometimes it's like you're going into a fight or into war. , And so who are those sort of soldiers, that first line of defense that they're trying to lock down?The, the peak or the, you know, the, the, the main takeoff spot and how many of them are there, are they working in synergy, you know, like a local spot where they're like clearly clustering together to, to kind of, , surround that, that, that best spot? Or is it a spot like, , you know, being in, or again, maybe deserts where, you know, there's just a lot of people trying their own individual plan in that moment.And so, you know, allowing these first line of defense people to have that kind of, authority that they want to have out there. , But playing underneath them and, and almost using that against them, , is something that, you know, you can do. And I know it's kind of hard to articulate just over a conversation, but when you have modules and you're sort of showing examples, , I know myself, I use.At Padang a lot just sitting, you know, slightly under all those sort of main, main key guys. Now clearly if there's another 30 guys, like maybe with the same idea, then that secondary peak gets, gets packed. But, , there's these ways in which you can, you can again try option A, option B, um, but often, you know, just being underneath and, and allowing those other surfers to have that, that, , pecking order that they're trying to, they're trying to have, , you can, you can slot in underneath and, and still get great double ups or, you know, get one that's missed.Or identifying that this guy's a local, that's an older guy that gets a lot of respect and lots of people are gonna pull back, but he's not got a good paddle. I've had so many waves just. Double checking those guys. And you know, they just don't quite get it when like, sometimes it does, it's like 30 guys have pulled back 'cause they're like, oh, it's, it's such and such, you know, we don't wanna push his section down, but you are just over enough that you are not gonna do that.And you might be able to squeak in when 30 guys pull back and he just takes off too late or doesn't quite make the drop., So yeah, identifying those, those little gaps is key. , Back to etiquette though, with that personally, , I'm non-confrontational in my approach to surfing. Like, I've never enjoyed an argument.I've never enjoyed trying to, , paddle up to someone and educate them on the environment unless they're being dangerous. , The worst environments I've found myself in my life have been of recent w with my own sons teaching them to surf. Uh, so being out in lineups like. Ulus when it's only two to three foot high tide and you just have all these uneducated surfers.Uh, and I don't wanna put a label on level, I'm just uneducated on, on movement and just priority and, you know, just fairness, like, and safety, just, uh, you know, and so you're, you're literally out there with your son. And I've been in the most confrontational arguments of recent, purely when I feel obligated to try and tune someone about how dangerous they're being when not just my kids, but other kids are out in the lineup and, you know, they don't have the, the physical capability or skillset., Or knowledge yet to make the right decision. , They're learning, they're trying to get out the way, but maybe they're just not gonna be able to. And yeah, just seeing so much, um, carnage, clearly, uh, it's been really a, a, a challenging journey at times because, you know, you don't see all of that kind of stuff when you surf better breaks with higher level surfers., It, it's really gone to the dogs and I, you know, I grew up in that environment once upon a time, but it's so much worse now than it was in were kids. I feel for any learner, adult, you know, female long boarder trying to get amongst that and, and cash their wave, you know, it's just, uh, it's, it's a really toxic environment now.Those sorts of mainstream breaks,, you know, you can go through a list of Malibu and snappers and, you know, all around the world, right? It's, it's just so many surfers now. So, , yeah. It's, it's, it…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    128 Surfing Etiquette & the Evolution of Surf Culture with Holly Beck Oct 14, 2025
    Show notes

    128 Surfing Etiquette and the Evolution of Surf Culture with Holly Beck Surf Mastery Podcast Is the surfer catching the most waves always the best surfer in the lineup - or just the loudest?Surfing is more crowded than ever, and the line between etiquette and entitlement in the lineup is getting blurry. Whether you're new to surfing or a seasoned local, understanding the evolving ethics of surf culture can make or break your session - and everyone else’s.Hear Holly Beck share how her transformation from competitive surfer to retreat leader changed her perspective on surf etiquette.Learn why the unspoken “rules” of the lineup are more complex than just "who's deepest," and how understanding nuance can lead to a better surf experience.Discover how surf culture can shift towards empathy and inclusivity without sacrificing skill, tradition, or respect. Tune in to hear a refreshingly real and nuanced conversation that will challenge how you think about surfing, sharing waves, and what it truly means to be the best surfer in the water.https://surfwithamigas.comTranscript: Michael Frampton: . That's a good segue into what we're gonna talk about today, but there's another thing that's, , for those listening, we're gonna talk about etiquette today, soon, but let me ask you, here's a question that I've been asking guests recently, which I think ties into the, the broader topic of what we're gonna discuss today is, is surfing a sport or is it an art?Holly Beck: I think it depends. I think it could be either, depending on the participant. I think that for me, when I was a competitive surfer, then it was sport. And now that I'm not a competitive surfer, then for me it's more of an art. But I think that different people can, can make that choice and be right.You know, that both, both answers could be right, depending on the person and how they approach it. Michael Frampton: Okay. Holly Beck: What do you think? Michael Frampton: I, I agree with that. I, I I, I think it's a, well, I think it's a sport, obviously if you're in a surfing competition and you're being judged, you know, it's a sporting competition.And in those situations, surfing is a sport. However, when you were to watch the replay of John John surfing his final winning wave, it's pretty hard to argue how artistic and dance like the way he moves is, and I would, he hesitate to, to guess that he's just in the zone at trying to be one with the wave and express himself through surfing rather than, oh, I gotta hit the lip three times to get to the beach, to score a, an 8.7 that I need.Maybe sometimes he thinks like that, but I just think the, the, the best in the world, they treat competitive surfing like a sport, except when they're actually surfing, when they're actually standing up on the wave. That's when they're performing an art form. They just, all the competitive stuff, all the rules and regulations of , paddling around priority, all that jazz.The sporting stuff seems to sort of get, it should be forgotten about once you're up on the wave and then you're an artist essentially. Um, there's no finish. I wonder Holly Beck: if you could say the same thing about the greats in things that I think most of us would say are a sport like soccer or football, , my son is really into soccer and so I've been learning about soccer.I didn't play soccer growing up, but we've been watching messy, you know, videos of messy and all of, you know, the compilation on YouTube of the amazing goals that he's able to score and the different ways that he's able to do it. And I think when you mentioned Jonjo on his winning wave, I kind of had that same thought of like, if you are so great.At whatever it is that you're doing and you're in the flow, like the different ways of scoring a goal or even shooting a basket, you know, with the hang time and the style of the way that your arm is , at that point it's going beyond just, I need to get this ball into the goal, or I need to get this ball into the basket.And it's like the flare of how you do it that makes it into an art. Michael Frampton: I totally agree. I think messy is an artist. I think the difference is though, a football game, the score, if the ball goes in the goal, you know, there's a hard line you win. Like, like a running race is a great, like there's no arguing. You either won the race or you didn't.It doesn't matter whether the second place looked more beautiful doing it, this, they still came second. Whereas in surfing, we're almost judged on how artistic we look when we are actually surfing. The fastest surfer doesn't necessarily win. It's the most beautiful way that you surf with the wave that you've been given.So I'd almost argue that the sport of surfing is judged from an artistic perspective far more similar to gym gymnastics in the Olympics, for example. Holly Beck: Yeah, for sure. That makes sense. Mm-hmm. Michael Frampton: But Holly Beck: I, again, I feel like the, the difference in, well, at least the, the way that I interpreted your initial question is like how you are approaching it.You know, if there's like a, a sporting mindset of like my fitness and my training, and I'm gonna go out there and I'm gonna perform a certain, I guess even using the word perform kind of messes it up. But I'm gonna, I'm gonna achieve a certain set of things versus I'm going to maintain my flexibility so that I can go out and perform my.Stance with the wave. So maybe it's just, I, I just noticed that my relationship to surfing has definitely changed. And, you know, 10 years ago I would answer your question differently than I answer it now. And I don't think that surfing has changed. I'm the one that's changed. Michael Frampton: Yeah, I guess my argument is that for most of my listeners, I, if you wanna get better at surfing, I think it's better to think of it as an art form rather than a sport.'cause it sort of takes the competitiveness away from it. 'cause often when we think of sport, we think of competition, whereas surfing outside of competition, 99% of people listening to this probably more have no, um, have never competed in a surfing competition and have no desire to.However, they do want to get better at surfing and I like to sort of think of, , surfing as more like music than it is tennis. Holly Beck: Well, and then I guess you have to ask the question like, what does it mean to be better at surfing? Is it better because you're able to catch more waves, you're able to ride bigger waves, you are able to perform more advanced maneuvers?Or is it because you're able to go out there and connect with the ocean and feel the glide and have fun? Because for some people it might be really good at at the first and really bad at the second. And are they really better surfers because they can do Hess, but they're getting angry and they're making enemies and everybody in the lineup hates them.Does that make them a better surfer than somebody that's just paddling out and enjoying the experience and connecting with the other surfers and the water and ride standing up and having a beautiful long ride where they kick out of control of their board? Is that a better surfer? Michael Frampton: Well, exactly.And you hit on my point. I think that a lot of people, especially young beginners, , the way that they think about surfing is bastardized by the surf industry and the surfing media where they think, oh, a good surfer is someone who surfs a shortboard and does three to the beach. Whereas actually, if you think about surfing as not a, not a sport, but more of an art form, more like music, then you can actually sit down and go, actually, what does good surfing mean to me?And then there's such a broad spectrum of what that means. Maybe it is. Yeah. I do it actually. Damn it. I do want to show off and do three to beach and owning that and doing it is gonna make you better. Or I think for most of us listening, it's actually, you know, I just maybe surfing a bigger board and catching.Waves over here away from the crowd that aren't, don't peel as much, but I get more of them and it's just more about me adventure, surfing and connecting with the ocean. Actually, maybe that's more getting better at doing that, getting better at surfing that wave over there that no one else surfs or whatever it is.If you think of surfing as an art form, then you get to choose your genre of surfing and dive into that and decide what it is more rather than just, I would need to get the latest pop out shortboard model that so-and-so's riding and the wetsuit that he but, and the clothes or whatever. I just think so many people have been blindsided by the surf industry and the surf media as to what surfing is and when you change your whole philosophy.Define what your own surfing is and what you want out of it, then not only are you gonna be better at surfing, you're gonna be, you're gonna have a better attitude in the water. You're gonna be more fun to surf with. Um, blah blah blah. Which kind of leads us into the etiquette side of things. 'cause I think that ties into it quite nicely.Like if you are literally paddling out at a crowded surf break in a short, on a shortboard, and you want to just catch lots of waves and pretend that you're John John, there's a time and a place to do it. And if you're gonna do it at trestles, there's a different etiquette than if you were going to, you know, paddle a longboard out at, at Noosa on a, on a Kneehigh windless day.You know, the, the, those are two completely different situations and I think the etiquette needs to be, I don't think there's any one way of thinking about surf etiquette. Holly Beck: Well, I, I like what you said about it being specific to the, the situation and the different spot that you're in and, and that etiquette is like, there is a general set of like rules and also there's a lot of gray area, and also the rules change based on the situation.Michael Frampton: Definitely. We can agree on that.You, you, you do. You know, um, this came up because of some, there's been an article on Stab and Surfline and then there's been a bit of back and forth through Instagram, some of your posts, and then you reached out to me with an email. And I think we agree on in a lot of ways, but I think we also disagree in a lot of ways too.But let's hear some more of your extreme, not extreme. Um, some Holly Beck: call them extreme views. All right, I'll, I'll tell you where they came from. Michael Frampton: Yeah. Holly Beck: If that's how, that's what I'm trying to ask. So I, I, I grew up in the, and started surfing in the mid nineties in Palos Verdes, California. And Palos Verdes is really well known for having like intense, like old school etiquette.Like if you don't live here, you can't surf here. One of the things that creates the conditions for that is that the waves there are very infrequently good. The waves get amazing, they get world class. There's awesome waves, but you need a really specific type of swell to make them work. So all summer long it's completely flat and in the springtime when you get wind swells, it's junky.So the only time that makes those waves really good is when you get like a strong northwest long period swell. And then there's all of these points that light up and Palos Verdes is located in between Los Angeles and LA County. It's this little peninsula that sticks out. The freeways are really far away.Nobody's passing through Palos. You have to go there. And it's also a upper middle class location and the along the coast in Palos, because it's so beautiful and it's right in between LA and Orange County, it's really expensive to live there. So there's a lot of. Trust fund kids and very wealthy, you know, adults that live there that feel this sense of entitlement and privilege.And also the fact that the waves don't get good very often when they are good, there's this feeling of like, these are our waves, these are our waves in our backyard that we've waited all year to surf and we are gotta, we've gotta stop the outsiders for coming in, right? This is localism at its peak and that's what I grew up in.And, and so when I was young and getting indoctrinated into that, you know, I thought that was the way to do it. And you know, if you're a grom, you sit, you start at the beaches or you sit on the very inside and you don't get set waves and you have to like play all the different games of ingratiating yourself to the guys at the top of the pecking order and pay your dues and be out there on the sloppy days.And make friends. And then also, you know, it's like a pack of dogs. The, if the alpha is barking at outsiders and you want to be accepted by the alpha, then you have to also bark at the outsiders. So I got pulled into that pact of thinking that that was the right way to be and that was the cool way to be.And I also want, you know, to claim my share of this limited resource. And so if I saw, , people from out of town that I didn't know, I was a jerk to them, just like everybody else was paddling circles around them, dropping in on them, telling them to beat it. Like I had a friend who would, you know, on a crowded day, he would call out and he'd be like, who knows the zip code?If you don't know the zip code, turn and paddle in right now. Right. And, and so I thought that was normal and that was right. And I defended that. And then I eventually moved to, to Central America and was surfing very uncrowded spots and kind of started to develop a different perspective. And I started to surf with a big group of women and recognize that just because I lived there, you know, and here's these clients coming in for a week, does it mean that I get more right to waves than they do because I live there?And at first I said, yes. Yeah, maybe not my clients, but when I was out surfing this break, that is now my new home break. And then, you know, there's the local kids that are true locals, and then there's me who's lived there for 10 years. And then there's the guy from Florida who's been there a week. And so I kind of took that same mindset that said.I deserve more than you from Florida because I live here and continued it. And, and then, you know, I have progressed as a human and through the counseling degree and, and everything else. And, and I had been teaching to our clients. 'cause we teach etiquette, right? I believe that everybody needs to know etiquette.And if I'm teaching surfers how to surf, part of my responsibility as a surf instructor is to teach them etiquette so that I'm not just pushing him into waves, but I'm teaching them to become a surfer. So that means educating them on the history and how to be a surfer in the lineup. And I used to teach, okay, here it is, you know, the surfer closest to the breaking part of the wave has priority.And as you paddle out, you know, you make sure to paddle around into the channel if you can. And if you're paddling out and somebody's on the wave, it's your job to get outta the way and sacrifice yourself to the whitewash. And don't drop in and surface spot that's appropriate to your ability level and all of the basic.Rules that I think us as surfers don't argue about. Like we all agree that those are the rules of surfing. And then I used to say too, like we are not all equal. There's the guy who has been surf…

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    127 See Feel Do - The 3 Pillars of Good Surfing - (Best of Episode) Sep 17, 2025
    Show notes

    Are you truly seeing the wave - or are you missing the subtle signals that could transform your surfing forever?


    Many surfers hit a performance plateau because they focus only on big maneuvers and ignore the foundational skills that unlock flow, control, and wave mastery. In this “Best of” episode, discover the overlooked mental and physical shifts that elite surfers use to elevate their performance - without needing better waves or a new board.

    Learn how to “read” the ocean and see opportunities in every wave, just like world champion Tom Carroll.

    Discover why the best surfers don’t think balance - they feel it, and how you can train your instincts to surf with more fluidity.

    Get a simple yet powerful breakdown of how waves and surfboards work, and why leaning - not forcing - is the secret to rail surfing.


    Hit play now to uncover the three timeless surf insights that will sharpen your focus, deepen your feel, and transform how you approach every session.

    www.surfmastery.com

    Quotes from Episodes 2,3 and 14.

    Music: "make a smile" Anthony Mea


    126 Why Paddling is 90% of Surfing - And How to Master It Aug 15, 2025
    Show notes

    Why Paddling is 90% of Surfing - And How to Master It Surf Mastery Podcast Download Are you wasting energy every time you paddle out — and missing waves because of it?Most surfers spend 99% of their time in the water not actually riding waves. They're paddling, positioning, sitting, or struggling to get back out — and often doing it inefficiently. If you're tired of burning out in the lineup and still not catching the waves you want, this episode is for you.Discover the three most common ways surfers waste energy — and how to fix them to catch more waves with less effort.Learn why your pop-up is the most important move in surfing — and how improving it could change everything.Explore how shifting from a fixed to a growth mindset will fast-track your progression and elevate your surfing experience.Listen now to learn how to become a “lazy surfer” — and start catching more waves with far less effort.Rob’s Website:https://www.surfingpaddling.com Episode Summary:In this episode, Michael Frampton welcomes back surf paddling expert Rob Case to dive deep into the often-overlooked side of surfing: everything that happens before you stand up. They explore the massive role paddling technique plays in wave-catching, the evolution of surf coaching, and the mindset shift needed for adult learners to truly progress. Rob discusses insights from his new book, shares practical ways to reduce energy waste in the water, and explains why becoming a "lazy surfer" might be the smartest thing you can do. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned surfer, this conversation will change the way you look at the ocean and your time in it.Key Points:Paddling is Most of Surfing:Rob highlights that around 99% of surfing is not standing on a wave — it’s paddling, positioning, and ocean awareness.The Three Biggest Energy Wasters:Most surfers waste energy in paddling, wave-catching, and getting back out after a ride. Rob explains how improving technique in each area leads to more waves and less burnout.Why Pop-Ups Matter Most:The takeoff is surfing’s most dynamic and demanding move. Mastering it is key to consistent, confident wave-riding.The Art vs. Sport Debate:Surfing is both art and sport. Treating it like an art form invites deeper curiosity and long-term progression.The Growth Mindset Advantage:Adult learners can progress quickly by being deliberate and focused — and by embracing the role of student.Becoming a “Lazy Surfer”:Rob’s coaching philosophy is about helping surfers do more with less: catch more waves, waste less energy, and surf with more efficiency and grace.The Value of Observation & Ocean Reading:Watching the ocean with purpose, understanding swell periods, currents, and timing are vital skills to develop.Behind the Book:Rob shares the challenges and revelations of writing his new book — and why it’s designed to give every surfer access to paddling mastery, regardless of budget.Transcript:SMP126RobCaseMichael Frampton: welcome back or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast, the podcast that helps surfers to catch more waves and surf with more speed, style, and grace. Today we have a return guest, uh, as Rob Case. He first appeared back in episode 12 and then again in episode 91, and Rob specializes in surfing, paddling, or paddling for surfing.Now I have just released a course, which is all about what you do or improving what you do between when the surfboard is under your arm and when the surfboard is under your feet, because every other surfing course is all about what do you do when you're standing up. However, 99. Maybe more. 99% of what we do when we are surfing is not actually surfing.It is sitting there looking at the ocean, trying to predict where waves are coming or paddling around trying to catch them. The thing is, what I mentioned in my course I don't specialize in is paddling, which is a lot of that time is spent paddling. , I refer that to Rob, that is Rob's specialty. And, , ideally you can get in front of Rob and do a one-on-one, , in Northern California or get to one of his courses and, , get some hands-on experience if you can't do that.He's got an awesome YouTube channel and his own podcast and he's just released a book. Rob Case: Yeah, that's awesome. Michael Frampton: So you can, you can get into the details of it. Rob, welcome back to the show. Why the book? That's a Rob Case: good, good question. , It's a good sleeping aid. Have you, have you tried that yet? I listened to my own, my own podcast to get to sleep., Now the book, the book was, I, I wanted it as another avenue for surfers to get the information, but what I realized as I was writing it, and it took several years to finally get it completed, but. As I'm kind of going through it and putting it together, I'm realizing that I can put a lot more detail, as you said, into the book, , than I can into the online course on the videos.So a lot of the things that I was saying to clients when we were working one-on-one and in person or in the small groups, I, I didn't have in the online course. Those little nuances, , of clarification and the book allowed me to have all this time and space to kind of put all that in for those that really wanted that., So that, that was kind of the main purpose for the book, , was just a, another avenue, but also to allow people that want those nuances that, that, that actually learn better by text,, to, to get that kind of avenue. , And then also, you know, to allow people that can't afford my in-person stuff to get the information anyway, so now I.Nobody really has an excuse not to work on paddling technique. Right. Or to learn about it. Right. , Before it was, I can't afford your in person, which I totally understand. That's, and so I did the online course and okay, that's too expensive. Okay, now you got the book there. There's really nothing. And then I even have free resources like the YouTube and my blog and the podcast.So no excuse. If you really want to improve your paddling technique, and I'll clarify that. I work on paddling technique, not so much fitness. I, I do have fitness, but fitness is more other people's realms. Um, I'm, I'm really focused on the movement and, um, driving that, that, uh, neural pathway in your brain so that you're doing it over and over again without having to think about it as, as you've witnessed and been a part of.Michael Frampton: Oh yeah. I'm witnessed and been a part of it in many levels. When a, you know, when a 12-year-old kid on. Shortboard paddles past you and you think that you're a good paddler, and you're like, what is he doing? And it wasn't, I always thought, you know, before I, um, came across your work, I always thought I was just stronger somehow.He surfs more than me. Or, but no, it's all about efficiency and, and, and technique. And interestingly, it's something not a lot of surfers really, really think about. Um, they have the same attitude I used to have before discovering your work. They sort of just dismiss it as, oh, it's something that experienced surfers do or gifted athletes sort of naturally have.But no, you can, uh, you can definitely learn it. And I like the fact that there is a book because. You know, you've, some people learn by reading a book and the book gives you so much room to add more details. , That's how we've learned throughout history a lot of the time is books, you know, videos and stuff are quite, quite new., And you think of any other individual sport like tennis or golf, there's, there's go on Amazon, there's books galore. Yeah, it's, it's kind of strange. There's not that many books on surfing. I dunno why. Um, I guess surfing's such a new thing and certainly, you know, accepting that you are a surf nerd and you want to really learn that's even newer than surfing itself.You know, even 10 years ago it certainly wasn't cool to have a, a surf coach or to analyze your paddling technique. I think now it's becoming a lot more accepted. , There still is a little bit of that there, but, I mean, I, gosh, I remember watching. Was it, it, I think Olo, when Olo first surfed the box and he openly admitted that he, he had been up since 4:00 AM practicing his popups on his bed.So Really? Yeah. So even the best in the world, they actually, behind the scenes, you'd be surprised how much work they're putting in and how much geeking out that they're doing in order just to get that much better than their competitors. And, , you know, there's no reason why we as surfers just, you know, as recreational surfers, just, I remember going through a phase where I was so, I kind of thought surfing was the selfish pursuit and, you know, why would I, you know, there's, why would I bother putting all that time and effort into it?And then I realized, you know, who cares? It's surfing's my thing. I'm gonna give it everything I got. And, , that stage in my life where I really obsessed about surfing and was, you know, reading books on how to read water and taking fitness courses and doing, spending time, coming to see you and, and watching your content.That obsessed, that period of time where I obsessed over everything surfing. , I never regret that. And it, it's amazing how much better you can become. Rob Case: Yeah, absolutely. I, it's funny you kind of stirred something in my brain why surfing is so late to the game for getting information, for having books, for having coaches and you know, like every other sport like you said, has these things.So is it, is it because we just have never really viewed it as a sport? Or have we never viewed it as a serious sport? Or is it not a sport? You know, those are the debatable questions. I, I think the Olympics really helped quite a bit. 'cause leading up to the acceptance in the Olympics. And even before that, MC Fanning kind of started it all well before that.But the Olympics I think really rocketed coaching to a huge degree. And I get really serious surfers come to me now, and they're, they're very open-minded. And I'm always, I'm always kind of like, okay, well how do I, how skeptical is this person that's, that's always, you know, kind of these old school minded surfers that don't really think that technique is going to change anything.And, uh, they're becoming much more open minded as they walk in the door, as, uh, as opposed to 10 years ago when I started the in-person stuff. So, really interesting that you brought that up. Um, yeah, I don't know. I don't, what do you think, do you think it's 'cause of the Olympics? Do you think it's just the evolution of, of the demographic of surfers?So there's a lot new surfers that are older now. They're thinkers. Um, as opposed to when we started it was like, oh, we're just kids. And, you know, the kids really held up the industry, but now not so much. Michael Frampton: I, I think it's, it's more psychological than anything. , And it can often start with how you define surfing., Like you mentioned, what is it a sport? , I like to define surfing as an art more than anything else. , And you might think, oh, that takes away from training as a sport. Well, actually no, it doesn't because you think of music and if you're into music, then you'd learn music theory and you practice.You learn if you're playing guitar, you learn your scales and your chord shapes and you, you practice your timing with, with a metronome or, and so that you can play. Yeah. Right. You practice your fundamentals, right? Yeah, exactly. Or if you're an artist, you might spend a week doing doism, learning a different style of, or using a different type of paint or a different type of brush.You're not actually creating art per se. You're just learning to use a new technique or, or a new piece of equipment or, or even a new form of art. And you go, a painter might try sculpture for a while and come back to painting. And so I think if we have that attitude as a surfer where it's an art and it gives it a bit more depth, first of all, than it just being a sport or a recreational activity, , I think that helps us to be more fascinated and obsessed and immersed in surfing.And it almost gives yourself permission to, to dive in deeper and think. 'cause I mean, logically think about it, most of the time I don't stand up on my board. Why am I watching all these, why am I watching all these bottom turn and top turn techniques when. I actually just really want to catch more waves.Really? Yeah. Because that's what it's about. So I should probably be better at paddling and better at reading the ocean. , And better at choosing breaks that aren't as crowded and better at choosing the right surfboard for the conditions. Like being a better surfer is, I think the technique of your bottom turn, et cetera, is such a small, small part of it.And I think it's, first of all, it's great that a lot of people are diving into that mm-hmm. And getting better at that stuff. But I think it's, it's often misguided because it's so hard to, to be focused in the moment, to change the way you bottom turn, you've gotta get it's, you've gotta get everything else right first.Yeah. You've gotta be a confident Rob Case: waterman. I tell you guys all the time, like, I have the easy job. I can make somebody take thousands of strokes and I can correct them, you know, within the first five. Whereas a surf coach, you need a designated part on the, on the wave. , The wave needs to be shaped a certain way.They need to be balanced, they need to be of sound consciousness to do something that you've told them to do. There's, like you said, there's all these nuances just to that one thing and everything happens so quickly. How is a surf coach ever able to really get that repetitive motor learning? It's, it's, it's, it's really difficult.It's really, really difficult. So I, I have the easy job and I, I stop when people stand up and then I'm like, I hand it off. I'm like, go, go, go work with a, a great surf coach. But yeah, it is a difficult job. Um, but I, you know, I think on an extension to that is. Surfers that are listening to this, the surfers that come, come to me are, are growth-minded.It, it's, it's like you said, it's like a mindset. You are looking at art versus sport, but I think it's more just almost like a learning mindset. Are you open-minded? Are you, a growth kind of mindset? In which case, yeah, you're gonna get better at really anything you do. , You're gonna try to find resources to get better at those things.Whereas a fixed mindset, they're kind of just happy where they're at. You know, they don't really want change until a, a, something devastating possibly happens. You know, like they get an injury. Yeah. Or. They, they're not able to get up to the feet anymore, or they're not able to catch waves anymore, or, you know, something stirs that there's an event that happens that then stirs them to become more growth minded.Um, and, and I find that, it's funny when I, when I do, I do little trips, um, with clients and they're like, oh man, everybody's so cool on this trip. Like, where do you find all these people? I'm like, I, I don't, they come to me, you know? But I think there's a way in which I share my information that kind of weeds out the fixed minded folks from the growth minded folks.And I think that's one thing I've, I've very happy that I feel like I've designed that and I get the best cl…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    125 Master the Pop-up: Dry-Land Drills for Faster, Smoother Take-offs Aug 13, 2025
    Show notes
    125 Master the Pop-up: Dry-Land Drills for Faster, Smoother Take-offs Surf Mastery Podcast Download

    Struggling to stand up quickly and smoothly on your surfboard? Your popup might be the one skill holding your surfing back.

    The popup—your transition from paddling to riding—is the hardest maneuver in surfing and the foundation of every great ride. If yours is slow, clumsy, or inconsistent, it’s costing you waves, confidence, and how others see you in the lineup. But with the right approach, you can build a fast, stable popup even if you started surfing later in life.

    • Learn why a smooth, athletic popup sets the tone for your entire ride.

    • Discover dry-land exercises that develop the exact strength, mobility, and control needed for a flawless takeoff.

    • Get a step-by-step reverse training method to make your popup faster, more stable, and more consistent.


    Press play now to unlock the techniques and training drills that will transform your popup—and every wave you catch.

    Summary:
    Your popup is the foundation of every great ride—and one of the hardest skills to master in surfing. In this episode of the Surf Mastery Podcast, host Michael Frampton breaks down why the popup is so critical, what’s really happening during the movement, and how to train it effectively on land. You’ll learn the common mistakes that slow surfers down, how to build the strength and mobility needed for a lightning-fast takeoff, and the reverse training method that can transform your consistency in the water. Whether you’re a late starter or looking to sharpen your fundamentals, these practical drills will help you catch more waves and surf with greater confidence.

    Transcript:

    Michael Frampton: Welcome back, or welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast, the podcast that helps passionate, lifelong surfers to catch more waves and to surf with more speed, style, grace. I am your host, Michael Frampton, and today we are talking about the popup, AKA, the takeoff. It is the hardest maneuver in surfing. And it's the one thing in surfing that demands the most athleticism.

    Going from lying prone to getting to your feet without changing the way that the board moves through the water, or losing sight of the way the wave is breaking. That is hard. It takes a lot of athleticism to do that. And your popup isn't just about getting to your feet, it's also your entry into the wave.

    If it's slow or unstable, everything after that suffers. It's kind of like singing a song. You've got to hit that first note. Now, if your popup feels slow or clumsy or inconsistent, not only is it costing you waves, it's costing your perception in the lineup. Are you a competent surfer that doesn't waste waves?

    Or are you looked at as a kook? Now all good surfers have a good popup. I remember my first filmed surf coaching session, and that was the first thing we talked about was my popup. And until I saw the footage and spoke with the surf coach after, I didn't realize how bad mine was or. Really what a good one look like.

    I'm so glad that that particular surf coach picked it up so early on and after that, 'cause my background is in personal training and and and movement development. I spent hours in the gym after that developing the strength and mobility to be able to do a fast and smooth popup on dry land. And that is the one thing that has changed my surfing the most.

    Maybe aside from reading the ocean better. That pop up getting that. It just does wonders for your confidence 'cause getting to your feet fast and smooth. If you can do that, you have so much more. Trust in yourself to paddle into waves and to get to your feet with good timing. Getting your front leg underneath your chest and transferring that body weight from your ribs to your hands to your front foot, whilst still looking at the wave and keeping the board planing through the water at.

    With without bouncing or wobbling. It's really, really hard to do, and it's a very specific movement skill that that needs to be developed. Now. Most great surfers started very young and their bodies could do it when they were young, and as they grew they sort of maintained that skill. But I, like many of other people out there, started late in life.

    I was already fully grown before I started surfing, and I had to develop that movement skill. I've also trained a lot of adult beginners to develop that movement skill on dry land, and I cannot stress how important it is. The good news is that you can develop a good popup on dry land. It's not easy, but it is simple.

    How do you do that? Let's start by understanding a little bit more about what the popup is. When you're surfing, you are, you're paddling, so most of your body weight is going through the center of the board through your chest. Now, as you feel the wave start to pick you up and and your board speed change, then you transfer that body weight from your chest to your hands and then onto your front foot.

    Now it's a little more nuanced than that, but that's basically what it is. How do we train this? Or more specifically, how do we develop the ability to do this movement with control and agility? I would start by lying on the floor and lie down on your stomach as if you're paddling a surfboard, most of your body weight going through your ribs, and then bring your hands close to your chest and start to do a pushup.

    And then as you get to the top of the pushup, you bring your front leg forward so that your foot is in between your hands and you transfer the body weight. From your hands into your front foot. This is the point where most people get caught out. They simply cannot do it because they don't have the strength and mobility.

    There's not enough room. For that leg to fit into that space, that distance between your chest and your hands or the floor, if there's not enough room for your leg to fit there. And what you'll have to do is push hard and fast off the floor. Then your hands leave the floor, and that leg lands in between your hands, which was.

    The mistake that a lot of people do on a surfboard. So there's a split second or even longer, where the center of the surfboard isn't controlled by you. The best way to develop the movement is actually in reverse. So if you think of another exercise like, like a chin up, the best way to develop strength for a chin up if you can't do one, is to do it eccentrically or in reverse.

    You hold yourself at the top of the chin up and let yourself down really slowly. So the exercise that I recommend for improving your. Popup here is actually to do it in reverse. So you start by standing in your surf stance, you transfer the body weight all the way to your front foot, and then you slowly drop your hands down next to the front foot and slowly begin to transfer all your body weight from your foot into your hands, keeping that distance between your chest and the floor as big as possible, ideally, so you can actually lift the foot up off the floor so all your body weight is in your hands.

    But the foot remains in the same place. And then slowly take your foot back into the pushup position, and then lower yourself down into the bottom of a pushup where you're in that prone paddling position. The goal is to be able to transfer your body weight from your front foot, to your hands, to your chest, in a nice, smooth, slow, and controlled way.

    There is a free PDF on the homepage of surf mastery.com, called the five Best Exercises for Surfing, which goes into detail on this particular exercise as well as some other ones that compliment it. So go ahead and have a look at that. And on that note, do you know what's even harder is getting to the point where you actually need to do a popup.

    So reading the ocean, choosing the right waves, predicting the. Where waves are going to break and reading how the water's moving, and then paddling into the wave, all that stuff that happens before you actually do the popup, which is about 99% of your time in the water. That's actually the hardest part in surfing, and it's also what my course is all about.

    I have released a mini course that teaches all of that stuff. What happens between when the surfboard is under your arm and under your feet? The 99% of surfing that is done before we stand up. I have a course that goes into the details of all of that stuff, including exercises to, to complement the popup and also your standing position, which is essentially the finishing position of your popup.

    Most other courses out there are focused on what do you do once you're standing up? Well. Let's break it down on how to get there. Go to the surf mastery.com homepage and you can go ahead and check out more details on that course, and of course, jump on board. This is basically the course that I wish I had when I started surfing.

    Thanks for tuning into the podcast. Until next time, keep surfing.

    The Surf Mastery Podcast:

    For the passionate surfer—whether you're a weekend warrior, a surf dad, or an older surfer—this podcast is all about better surfing and deeper stoke. With expert surf coaching, surf training, and surfing tips, we’ll help you catch more waves, refine your paddling technique, and perfect your pop up on a surfboard. From surf workouts to handling wipeouts, chasing bigger waves, and mastering surf technique, we’re here to make sure you not only improve but truly enjoy surfing more—so you can get more out of every session and become a wiser surfer. Go from Beginner or intermediate Surfer to advanced



    124 Surfing: Art or Sport? with Devon Howard Jul 23, 2025
    Show notes

    124 Surfing: Art or Sport? with Devon Howard Surf Mastery Podcast Download Is surfing a sport, an art, or something in between - and does it really matter?If you've ever felt pressure to "perform" in the water or questioned your progress as a surfer, this episode will shift your mindset. Michael Frampton and Devon Howard unpack how redefining surfing as an art form - not just a competitive sport, it can transform both your approach and enjoyment, whether you're a beginner or a seasoned longboarder.Discover why kids often learn to surf faster and more fearlessly than adults - and what that means for your own surfing journey.Learn how to embrace surfing as a personal expression, tapping into flow states and style without the stress of performance.Get practical tips on wave selection, lineup strategy, and choosing the right longboard or mid-length for your body and goals.Tap into the deeper meaning of surfing and learn how shifting your mindset from sport to art can unlock more joy and progress - listen now.Key Points:Reading Waves & Lineup Tactics: Devon shares his triangulation method for better positioning and wave-catching efficiency - plus tips for navigating crowded breaks.Nose Riding Fundamentals: Understand why board length and positioning are crucial, and get clear size guidelines based on your height and weight.Board Selection Wisdom: From longboards to mid-lengths, discover how design choices impact both performance and style - and why collaboration with shapers like Wayne Rich matters.Surf Philosophy: Explore the tension between competition and creativity, and how thinking of surfing as dance, art, or even martial art can transform your surfing mindset.Check out this article: https://www.theinertia.com/surf/surfing-art-sport-debate/ p.s. DM Devon on Instagram about a discount code for Channel Island’s accessories; leg ropes, tail pads and board bags. Transcript:124 Devon HowardMichael Frampton: …they're mad on football. So it's winter here in New Zealand, so it's just football, football, football.Once the football season finishes and the, and the water gets warmer, we'll get back into surfing. I got the kids in swimming lessons every week, so just building their swimming fitness up. Devon Howard: Yeah, our kids are swimming now. They're pretty young, but we have a pool nearby and to get 'em acquainted with the ocean, we've been getting 'em in swimming lessons just 'cause it's, the water's a little chilly here as you, as you know.So getting really young kids psyched on low 60 Fahrenheit water is rough. Oh yeah. Michael Frampton: Oh yeah. Swimming's important.Swimming's you, you, I mean, the confidence in the water, right? Is, yeah. Michael Frampton: The biggest thing. And, and one thing that surprised me, like my kids, we spend a lot of time at the beach, , in the summertime and just their level of play, they don't care. , They started off just messing around in the shore break and then with a bodyboard, and then they jump on the front of my board and there was no pressure from me.It was just like, we're at the beach, you guys do what you want. And then naturally they're like, oh, I wanna try your board dad. And now they're all surfing. That's great. And, and they naturally, one of them in particular is like obsessed with it and. But they don't care. It's like for, for them, surfing is not a sport at all.There's no, there's no pressure on performance, anything like that. Right. And I think that's why they, they learn so well and why they sort of have no, there's no fear or shame or anxiety based around how they look in the water or anything. It's just pure fun. And two things surprised me on that is like a, is how long it takes to learn., I've been doing this with them, like my 13-year-old, he's only really just starting to sort of get surfing, like starting to sort of turn up and down on the wave face. And we've been doing that since he was four. You know, obviously there's far more gifted kids that pick it up really quick and, you know, the natural athletes and their obsessed parents and you know, some kids are competing once they're 11.But I think for most kids it's, it's takes so long to learn surfing. And I think just knowing that. Takes a lot of, should take a lot of pressure off the adult learner who's listening to this. Right? Michael Frampton: It's like, give yourself a break, man. It takes a long time to learn surfing. And second of all, the fastest and best way to learn surfing is to kind of approach it like a kid in a way.And Sure, my theory is that part of that is, don't think of it as a sport per se. Think of it as more of like an art or a lifestyle . Right. What are your thoughts on, on surfing in that regards? Is it a sport, is it an art? Does it matter? Devon Howard: I don't, I've never thought of it as a sport, even though I, ironically, I worked for a sports league for a while at the World Surf League.You can't give a simple answer to that because I think some aspects of surfing has become sport. , If you go, if we tune into the World Surf League later this week, they'll be at Jefferies Bay. The things that those surfers are doing, I think that's sport. I mean, it's, it's high level athleticism, , but it's mixed with art., In dance, which is an interesting thing. I suppose in some ways skateboarding is, you know, skateboarders have they really value style in their sport? I think that, I think skateboarders do call it a sport. But these conversations always are fraught with pitfalls because I'm, I'm not a, you know, my expertise isn't philosophy.I'm, I'm sure a really great thinker could pick this thing apart, but from my simple look at it, I always have felt surfing is a, it's just a personal expression and it, it leans more toward art. It leans more toward dance. I know that sounds cheesy for some folks, but, , the type of surfing that interests me and I pursuing a lot of my friends do, I, I think it is not really sport.Michael Frampton: , I, I agree with that a hundred percent. I would go further and argue that even in the WSL competition, I think most of the, the sport and air quotes is around the tactics and getting the waves. But once the surfers on the wave, the ones who get scored the most, are the most artistic. Mm-hmm. You know, like whether you watch John John with or without a jersey, he's, it's still very great.He's still dancing with the ocean. Yeah. Devon Howard: Yeah. And, and it is creative and I think because it's spontaneous, I guess other sports are spontaneous, you know, like a baseball game, any kind of balls comes flying at you, you have to react to it. There's not an exact plan, but you have practiced, um, a lot to react to that and to physically grab something where a surfboard, you have this other, you are catching something, you're catching the, the wave that's like catching a bulb.But then you've got this other dimension where now you have the, it's a cliche, but the paintbrush. Um, and I, a lot of these surfers don't know what they're gonna do when they get to their feet. I don't, I don't know if you do, I mean, you kind of have things that you are in your bag of tricks or your repertoire that you lean on, but you don't always know you.There's a lot of. Spontaneous react reaction to what's happening. So I think that's what art is. You know, if you sit, I used to draw a lot when I was younger, you know, you sit down and yeah, maybe you kind of have a game plan, but if, unless you're copying something, like you're looking at a still like a, you know, model or a landscape, I suppose you're, you know, you're copying that.But if you are sitting down and not looking at anything and just going off peer feeling with no plan, um, that's artistry. And I, I, I think surfing's that way for a lot of people. For some people it's just survival. They're not, they're not really planning anything out. If you're newer to surfing, you're just like, get to your feet, make the drop, get to the channel, do it over again.Michael Frampton: Mm-hmm. Yeah. I think a lot of. Things are like that, like surfing. Definitely one that sort of crosses the border between sport and art. I mean, you think of a a, an Olympic competition, gymnastics, right? It's gymnastics is essentially an art, unless even the judging itself is quite subjective.No. Mm-hmm. A running race who finishes first? I mean, that's very objective. It's there's, you know, right. That's definitely a sport. And then even like a, a football game, who scores, who wins at the end? It's the black, it's pretty black and white. However, you might argue that Messi or Ronaldo, the way that they play with the ball is an art form.The way that they probably draw energy from the audience and they like their, show me that it's a performance art for them. And anyone who's, you know, followed those great athletes would certainly describe the way they move is, is very artistic and the way they play the game. Um, right. I actually quite like to ask whether their perception of the game is more artistic as well.'cause I, 'cause that's where I'm sort of coming from here is like the, the overarching question is why does it matter if it's a sporter or not? Like who cares? Let's just go surfing. Well, I think for, for a lot of people, especially me, sport is often defined and I grew up playing sport, but it was always competitive sport.So the definition of sport for me has an element of competitiveness. Even though the Oxford dictionary definition of it doesn't include that, for me it's sort of always think of sport as something that's competitive. Whether that's an individualistic sport where you might be just competing against yourself when you're practicing or whatever.But when, when you approach surfing or anything with an artistic perspective, then it becomes, no, this is creative. And you know, instead of three, instead of three to the beach. Because I used to think of surfing, like even though I wasn't in a competition, I used to think of surfing as I wanna rip the wave and three to the beach and sort of had these WSL speed power flow sort of outside influences on the way I should surf.And you're watching surfing videos and you're surfing the latest shortboard and it was very much a sporting activity. And then when I sort of changed my perspective and thought of it, no, it's an art, it's for me, it's just becoming one with the wave and approached it. Yeah. From a more artistic perspective, I think a couple of things happened.I, I just enjoyed it more. There was less pressure. Yeah. Actually started becoming more inflow and actually surfing with the wave better. Devon Howard: Yeah. And it's funny, if you were to open up Surf magazine from, I don't know, 1966 or seven, the same exact conversations were happening because I might be misquoting 'em, but I believe it was Nat Young.At some point, you know, he and the crew, a lot of crew were pulling back from competition and, , they were like, you look at the film evolution and, and that sort of late sixties period they were going to the farm and they were pulling back from putting the jersey on and having these discussions, you know, is pursuing and pushing, surfing in as a competitive sport, a mistake.Are we forcing something upon, uh, a pursuit that's more akin to a performance art? I believe, I believe that's what he called it, was performance art, which would be closer to traditional dance. , You know, because at that time, let's just say late sixties, early seventies, the, the equipment. Hadn't gone anywhere near what it is now.I mean, sure. In cartoons and dreams, they were imagining, um, flying through the air. I'm sure people were, but it was, it wouldn't, that wasn't happening until, uh, late seventies, early eighties where people started like getting really above the lip and then leaving, uh, and taking orbit. Uh, so you can really just think about it as, um, yeah, performance art and um, and then competitive surfing.Uh, and, and the sport of surfing really, um, disappeared for a number of years. Through the early seventies into the mid seventies. By and large, the majority of surfing world wasn't participating in it. You look at surf magazines, they weren't pushing it super hard, but in the mid seventies, the board started getting.More, um, performance focused. And you could argue what came first, you know, was it the competition that drew drove design, which, um, you know, increased the performance of the boards. 'cause in the mid seventies, there's shrinking the boards from those brewer single fin shapes, which were pretty limiting. Um, people were riding eggs in the early seventies.Those were actually a lot more maneuverable than the Dick Brewer style boards that were popular because of Jerry Lopez. Jerry Lopez was God. And everyone wanted to surf like Jerry, even if it was waist high, wherever you were, it could be waist high Malibu. And people were riding seven foot Lopez guns, which was absurd.Hmm. And so everything was style focused. It was still for sure art., But I think there was a fork in the road, so to speak, um, by mid to late seventies. Professional, you know, professional surfing was becoming a thing. The bronzed, Aussies, Sean Thompson, every, you know, we don't have to give a history lesson here, but astute listeners know that story.And so surf brands are emerging and they're trying to sell product. And they sort of aligned themselves behind these elite quote, you know, surfer athletes and the type of surfing they were doing. You know, Shane Haran, you can go down the list of people. And then eventually Tom Kern, Martin Potter, Barton Lynch, they were getting in as many maneuvers as they could because they were being judged in a competition.They were trying to win something. It was a subjectified sport, but it was still subjective. So it was always, no one was ever totally happy, but it was still being pushed toward a sport. And to get better, to win, to be a champion, you had to keep pushing performance more maneuvers, more radical. Then you had the other people who said the hell with that, that that is counter to what they believed in surfing.And that would be your, um, Jim Banks. It would be the Wayne Lynch. It would be these sort of people that really stayed far from competition, pursued surf travel, and they kept that idea of it being an art alive. And like we're still having those discussions. We still, you know, on one side of things, now we have Michael February for example, and there's a whole list of people.Um, although even to like, , Brendan Marson, Margo who's like my age in his early fifties, credible surfer. There's nothing on that side of things that are. Remotely related to competition. And I think everybody associates what they are doing at purely as art. I don't think anyone I, I'd be happy to hear who thinks that is sport.And then we go back to our WSL example, you've got the jersey, you've got Jack Robinson, Alianca, you, you know, go down the whole list of people and that's what feels like sport to me. So it's interesting that we have two sides of it. And then ultimately whoever's listening or whoever's surfing and they, they sort of make a choice.And I don't know, maybe the, is there a hybrid version of that? What, what would the hybrid be? I, I don'…

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    123 Wave Count Wins: How Paddle Training Transforms Surfing with Van Vu of Basis Surf Jul 20, 2025
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    To see and purchase the Surf Basis Paddle Trainer:www.surfbasis.comFor $30 off use Discount code: SURFMASTERYIf you've ever struggled with wave count, paddle fatigue, or felt stuck in your surfing despite hours in the water, this episode is a game-changer. Van Vu — host of the Basis Surf Podcast and creator of the Basis Surf Paddle Trainer — unpacks the core reason most surfers plateau: poor paddle fitness and a rushed approach to board progression.Discover how incremental board volume reduction can dramatically improve your surfing fundamentals and style.Learn why elite surfers catch exponentially more waves — and how you can close the gap without living near a world-class break.Hear Van’s insights from interviewing top surfers, shapers, and coaches, and how it shaped his holistic view of surf progression.Hit play now to learn how to increase your wave count, accelerate your surf growth, and train smarter — starting today. TranscriptMichael Frampton: So today on the show we have Van Vu. Van is a fellow surf nerd. , He's obsessed with surfing and he went into learning about surfing in a strong way, became obsessed of sorts, I would say, and that led him into having lots of conversations with different people.And we share a similar journey because we ended up recording those conversations and sharing them with others in order to help them and on their surf journey. He is the host and producer of the Basis Surf, , podcast, and he is the founder and creator of the Basis Surf Paddle Trainer Van. Have I left anything out in that quick little intro?Van Vu: I think those are the, the big things, but yeah, I'm, uh, very excited to, get interviewed by you and chat about, , surfing and let's, , let's nerd out together 'cause , that's what we both love to do. So Michael Frampton: let's start from the beginning. What's your earliest surfing memory? Van Vu: Oh my God. Such a favorite.It's, , my cousin taught me how to surf. He, had long hair, a pukka shell necklace. He had, , a vintage VW bug bus and a bunch of longboards and a hot girlfriend. And, uh, he would take me surfing and I remember going with him, being like, oh my God, this is it. This is the dream. You know, I still remember, this is probably still the most magical surf memory of my entire life.More so than any sick wave I've gotten in Hawaii, or Indo, or Central America or Europe or wherever. But, it was July 4th and, uh, we paddled out at night., This was, I wanna say, where was it? It might have been Dana Point or Huntington, somewhere over there, somewhere in Orange County. I don't remember., But they had this barge that was shooting off fireworks. You know, it was me and my cousins were just like all little kids. And, uh, this barge was shooting off fireworks, but my cousin had the idea of paddling out there with on Longboards. And so we just like paddled out there in the longboards on our longboards at night, and we were just lying on our backs, like watching this, the fireworks blow up above us.And then as we paddled back, as we were paddling back in the, , the, basically the ocean, the phosphorescence of it, like illuminated it. So every time we were paddling in the water, our hands were glowing, you know, it was like this crazy, insane, wild experience. And I was just like, oh my God, I love this.Yeah. Oh wow. How old were you then? I I was probably like eight, nine, something like that. 10, yeah. Yeah. And um, yeah, that's, and you have an experience like that and that, that's definitely a strong imprint for sure. Michael Frampton: So then do you rem do you remember when you first got into short boarding? Van Vu: Yes, for sure. Shortboarding was, 'cause I remember, and I think this was a huge mistake that I made actually.So, you know, I grew up learning how to surf on longboards and um, but I remember, , you know, my cousin and he was always paddling around on shortboard and he would just catch waves and I would watch him catch these waves and he would catch these waves earlier and better than I would, even though I was on a long board.And I always thought, okay, well obviously he's a really good surfer, so I want to surf like him, so I wanna ride a tiny chippy shortboard like he did. So that was always my goal, you know? And, um, of course what I did, what did I do? I moved down to riding the shortest, smallest board possible, like from the beginning, you know what I'm saying?And uh, that was probably one of the biggest things that held back my progression for sure. , I think that you learn so much on riding longer boards that you can't learn or it's, it's gonna take you a lot longer to learn on a shorter board. , Just the way you read the ocean, for example. You know, obviously you can catch similar waves on a long board as a shortboard.But if you're catching boards, if you're catching waves the way you should be when you're riding larger craft, you should be trying to get into those waves as early as possible before they even break. You know, especially if you're riding like a traditional longboard. And so by developing that skill of observing the ocean in that way., You are just gonna become a much better surfer 'cause you're just gonna understand the ocean much better. Versus when you're riding a shortboard you jump too quickly. What's gonna happen? And this is something that was a mistake that I made, right? Because you don't have the same buoyancy. , You kind of get into the habit of just waiting until the wave is just about to fall on your head.And 'cause that's for sure when you're gonna have the most energy 'cause it's the steepest. But what happens is it you're actually catching the wave probably still too late. You know, the best surfers, when they're riding short boards, they're catching the wave still really early relative to beginner surfers.You know, they're catching the wave often, sometimes right before the wave is gonna break in a similar fashion to what you'll see with people that are riding longboards. So what happens then is you develop all these bad habits because you're dropping into the wave kind of. So you don't have enough time to do a pop-up properly, so it messes up your pop-up mechanics.You're at the bottom of the wave and then you're running outta speed. So you're doing all these like ugly pumps to try to get around the section and then you just miss so many waves that way. Whereas if you had learn, you know, taken a much more gradual approach, ridden a longer board, gotten better at your wave selection and really gotten used to that sensation of riding, you know, an open face green wave, I feel like you can just gradually step down your volume and you'll have much better results in terms of your style, wave, selection, speed, all of the, the fundamentals that are so key than just jumping straight to a shortboard and thinking that you look cool.You know, that's the biggest thing that people care about though, is just looking cool, unfortunately, so. Michael Frampton: Yeah. Well, it sounds like you learn the hard way. Oh yeah. , How long did it take for you to kind of see the light and then jump back on a board that was a bit more volumous?Van Vu: You know, it was, it took a long time because I don't think it really was until, you know, this was, I mean, I still remember seeing like the first clips of, , Devon Howard riding a mid length, , when it started going viral, if you will, on Vimeo. Like, he, he wasn't even on YouTube. He wasn't even on Instagram.I just remember seeing this really, this clip, it must have been like, I don't know, 12, 14 years ago, something like that. I, I don't even remember how long ago, and I just remember seeing him riding this bigger board and I was like, whoa, what is he doing? He's writing this weird looking board. I mean, weird relative to like this, this was like the same era when like Dane Reynolds came out with the proton and was like ripping on a proton, you know, the most rocked out board that you can get.And then you see Devin Howard where, I mean, it's, it's all kind of it in that same timeframe. But I remember having like getting a proton, you know, a super rocker out, super knife board built for the most hollows of hollow waves and then struggling on a proton. And then I remember seeing Devin Howard , just doing these beautiful turns on a, on what would look like a, they called them fun boards back then.Yeah. There was no term for them. That's right. They called 'em fun boards. I mean, I guess they call it, some people would call 'em eggs, but like that whole alternative surf world was much, \, it existed for sure, but it wasn't quite on the forefront of things. , And I saw that and that really like. Open my eyes, but even then I didn't h hop quite on that because there's still so much ego involved.And the funniest thing about ego is your ego makes you think that you should just, you wanna like hold a narrower board under your arm, but what your ego should be telling you is you actually look worse on that short board. You know what I'm saying? And if you look at somebody that's riding a bigger board with, but with more control, more precision, catching better waves, you actually look better on that bigger board, even though the board is bigger, you know?Yes. Yeah. So it's this weird, it's this weird thing, but people get hung up about writing, you know, a big board. Now that being said, I do think that in general, I think people should be slower to, um, drop volume in their boards 'cause they brush down too quick. But I also think one of the biggest, so I, I think I had like two interesting breakthroughs.I had an interesting breakthrough when I went from riding super chippy short boards and then riding bigger boards. 'cause then all of a sudden I was making sections that I wasn't able to make. , I just had this different understanding of the wave 'cause just slows time down. And then it also allowed me to like, because it slowed time down, I was able to like focus on my turns and just like my timing and my understanding of it.But then the second big unlock came when I started sizing down after that. Because I think a lot of people make a mistake where, well, it's not necessarily a mistake, it's more of like a, it's more of like a, a decision. It's a decision in terms of what you want out of your surfing. But you know, you can turn a bigger board.You just look at Devon Howard, look at Torren Martyn, especially if you get the right board. I think riding twins, for example, in your mid lengths will loosen it up a lot. , But I experimented a bunch with mid lengths 'cause I just saw a lot of actually really good surfers in where I surf in Rockaway ride mid lengths as well.These are guys that really rip, that are incredible surfers. But I noticed that they were riding these mid links on the really tiny days when, you know, Rockaway is just breaking super fast and is really soft and it's like hard to make these sections. And then you would also see them ride it when it's pumping and barreling.So that's when I was like, oh, okay, this isn't unlock and it's not just for, you know, these are actually good surfers, they're riding these bigger boards. So that was like this really big unlock for me. So I was like, okay, this seems like something that is really gonna, that that could help my progression.So I started experimenting with that. But then. That really took my, I, I would say that really helped my surfing in a lot of ways, but then I would get stuck, you know? And then I think the second unlock came after I had mastered a lot of the fundamentals that I'd gained from riding larger craft. And then once I had really started to kind of solidify those foundations, then I think the next step was actually sizing down and sizing down in a really thoughtful manner.And for me, you know, I was very incremental in my approach. , , but the sizing down was a huge unlock because, you know, when you're riding a bigger board and you're trying to do a turn on a bigger board, you can do a turn on a bigger board, like I said, Devin Howard, and whatnot. But your foot placement has to be perfect, right?You have to really get your foot all the way back. You also have to have your mechanics way more dialed. A bigger board is gonna be that much more resistant to your body mechanic, the the body mechanics that you utilize for your turn. So if you don't have the proper body mechanics and you don't get got your foot placement dialed in, when you go to try to do that, turn the board's just not gonna respond.So I was getting hitting this other plateau and that's when I realized I really need to focus on downsizing my volume. And then once I started to downsize my volume, okay, and I worked on my body mechanics and really started to really dissect and think about, you know what, it takes the biomechanics of a turn.Those two things together were key because by having a smaller board, number one, my foot placement naturally just landed much more all the way back. You know, and I know that a ton of surfers really struggle with moving their back foot. It's a skill that you have to develop, but it is a huge struggle for surfers.You know, I talk to really, really good surfers and they still remind themselves like, I have to move that back foot. You know, that, that's such a big thing that everybody struggles with. So, but if you write a smaller board, your back foot just naturally lands smaller, lower back, far the back. 'cause you're just writing a shorter board.So your foot placement gets solved and then because the board is more sensitive, it's gonna be more sensitive to you trying to do a turn. , Sometimes, there's that criticism. You'll see people where they're like, I mean we, you see this all the time. I think a lot of coaches talk about it.People will move their arms and try to do a turn, but the board doesn't seem to move. Now a lot of that is 'cause there's this disconnection from the upper body to the lower body. Part of that is also that their foot placement probably isn't there. But a big part of it as well is they're just body mechanics aren't there.So they don't know how to move their body to actually get the turn, and the board is too big. So by eliminating a bunch of those variables, okay, you got a smaller board, so your foot placement is naturally gonna be better. Your board is smaller, so it's more sensitive. So it's gonna naturally respond to you more.And then, then what's gonna happen is you're gonna go through this really, it's, it's a little tricky, but it's kind of like a difficult phase where you're gonna experiment a lot with your technique, but it, and it is gonna look worse. That's the hard part. Your technique is gonna look worse because you're riding a more sensitive board and you haven't figured out the right body mechanics.Mm. And that's the problem. You're riding. You're now, you went from riding a, a, you know, a rowboat, , or a tugboat to now you're riding like a no, you're, you, you went from riding a pickup truck or an 18 wheeler and now you're riding an F1 car, right? So when you jump into the F1 car, that thing's gonna go all crazy.You're gonna be like wheel doing wheelies, you're gonna be falling over, flipping, all that kind of stuff. But that, the thing is, that's a natural part of the process where you need to go through that process. The board is gonna be more…

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    122 Surfing - Art or Sport - with Donald Brink Jul 02, 2025
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    122 Surfing’s Soul: Is It Art, Sport, or Something More? - with Donald Brink Surf Mastery Podcast Is surfing just a sport—or is it something much deeper, a form of art that mirrors your soul?Whether you're a weekend warrior or a lifelong wave chaser, you've likely felt that indescribable magic in the water. This episode dives into that very feeling, exploring how surfing transcends competition and becomes a deeply personal, creative expression. If you've ever wondered why your best session had nothing to do with trophies, you're not alone.Discover why Donald Brink believes surfing is more about galleries than stadiums—and how that insight can reshape your approach to every wave.Learn how intention, presence, and lifelong curiosity can turn every surf session into a meaningful act of self-expression.Hear how legendary surfers and everyday wave riders alike find purpose, growth, and connection through a pursuit that often defies explanation.Tune in to hear Donald Brink unpack the soulful side of surfing and walk away seeing your next session as more than just a ride—it could be your masterpiece.www.brinksurf.comhttps://www.instagram.com/donaldbrink/?hl=enTranscript:Michael Frampton: [00:00:00] Well, you mentioned them being art, which segues us into, I wanted to talk about, which was. Is surfing an art or a sport, or both? Now let me, , I'll tease you a little bit with some of my thoughts and then I'll, we'll get you to weigh in.So, the Oxford Dictionary defines a sport as senses relating to play pleasure or entertainment. , Some other, uh, definitions, , diversion, entertainment, fun, , frequently with modifying objective, , , activity that you do for pleasure and that needs physical effort or skill, usually done in a special area and according to fixed rules.So surfing definitely fits within most of that definition. Maybe not fixed rules, of course, if it's competition, it definitely does. And the actual, those are sort of some modern dictionary definitions of sport. And the etymology actually hasn't changed much in the origin of the word. I will [00:01:00] add I think those that have a background where their sporting youth was competitive, , you would immediately think that sport was, , competitive as well.And so obviously surfing fits that, but only in a small niche, OO of a hundred, uh, people, sort of, or a handful of competitive surfers in the world. Mm-hmm. Then art, which is definitely has a, some lucid definitions, but the dictionary may explain art, is in the use of the imagination to express ideas or feelings., That can definitely, uh, explain surfing for a lot of us. Uh, the expression of ideas and emotions through a physical medium, often with the intent to evoke a worthwhile experience. Definitely surfing fits that. Something that is created with imagination and skill and that is beautiful or that expresses important ideas or feelings.Again, another definition of art, which I think surfing for [00:02:00] me at least, fits in there. The etymology of art. , Basically put a skill as a result of learning or practice. Donald Brink: Mm-hmm. Obviously how art thou art has been used in other ways, , which sort of comes back to one's identity as well, which I think, is a cool little nuance there.'cause obviously a lot of us as surfers, we identify as surfers. It's not just something we do. , So there's a little bit of a history of the two words. , And I'd like to hear your thoughts, Donald. Donald Brink: Those, those definitions definitely have an overlap. And I think I would've, , if you asked me to choose one, I would choose art.And I, I think that, , that's changed over time and my confidence in, I, I want be rather just choose one so that it, so obviously it's both, but I would say it's art. And the [00:03:00] reason I'm more adamant on that now is because that's changed over time. Because even my work, people often ask like, oh, oh, these boards, it's such art, you know?And I'm like. No, it's like they're beautiful. They like, it's like, well, I want to hang it on the wall. It's like, no, just go surf. It's, it's like I, I do paint pictures as well, and you're like, that's art. You hang that on the wall, that's gonna, you're not gonna surf that. And then you start to realize either it's all art or none of it is.And, and that's a brave statement. And, and it's not to be cute. And therefore, to me, surfing is art because it has such, , depth and value and meaning to yourself and the inspirations. And, , the things that come along with the, the surfing life to me are sometimes indescribable. And that's what art is.You know, it's really hard to quantify exactly which brush stroke meant that thing come [00:04:00] together, which part of the light in a photograph. Convey that emotion and you don't want to start to study it in such depth that it, um, kills the bird to find the song that then vanishes. So you start to see these metaphors trip on themselves.And, , I prefer if, if there's art in everything to be endlessly fascinated by art, then this is art. And that isn't, 'cause those binary thoughts to me just make it, , they put endpoints on, on potential new horizons or potential dreams. And that's happened to me. Like a lot of board design, not a lot, but from time to time there's been waves I've dreamt about, or boards that I've dreamt about, or boards that I've dreamt on waves about.And those are treasured things. And I'll, I'll wrap this thought up with this. I, , I got to meet Phil Edwards. . A few months ago. I, I've seen him before. I, I'd never met him before. And, [00:05:00] uh, yeah. I was endlessly obviously inspired and fascinated by his legacy to surfing. And a mutual friend wanted to bring him by my shop and introduce us and I was like, such an honor.Right. You know, like, get him to meet Phil Edwards and he came down to the shop. , He was such a lovely man. We, we, how we, we got on like a house on fire. It was great. We were talking boats and design and all kinds of things. And I, one of the reasons I was so interested in him was 'cause he stopped surfing years ago.Just stopped surfing. And I, I was like, I'm always like, man, how do you just stop surfing? That's just strange to me. Right. And I wasn't sure how to ask that 'cause I wasn't conducting an interview. I wasn't sure it was even my place or space to ask. So I, I asked him flat out, I was like, this is, I'm not sure how it's gonna go.But I was like, Phil, do you miss surfing? No, it was about as, as, , as much energy in the way I said it then as it was when I just said it to you now, like, Phil, do you miss surfing? And he looked at me and, and he didn't hesitate much at all. He said, [00:06:00] you know, I have dreams about it and it's still so vivid, it's amazing.And he shared one or two things and we moved on and I was like, wow. It was as though he's still surfing. And it left me more confused and even more interested because I was like, man, imagine the, the data points that I'm getting from my surf just yesterday and potentially that I could get from today's surf could be things storing up inside, which you would hate to meter or measure, but they're in you.And I think they come out of one without being governed or policed, and therefore they're precious. I wanna respect them, and that, that's how art feels to me. I, I've been working on some mixed media, like, like challenging pieces, really like pushing myself as a creative being. And I say that because I can feel [00:07:00] the angst and ah, I can phone this in and just make it look pretty or I can try and find new ground.And, and when you do, stuff comes out from within that halfway through, you get these break points and they're like, wow, I, I didn't know I could do that. And it's, and you, it's not that you're impressing yourself. You, you just can't believe that you were able to be part of this dance of something that came to life, , really through you, not from you.And I'll challenge people to, to compare this to what they've felt in their own surfing. You know, you, you're out there sometimes and maybe it's even when there's a waves are good and then you take off on this little wave. My point is sometimes the most rewarding sensations come from the most surprising little nuanced events, or the most unlikely timing of things., And there's just so much input on the sensors. It's such a sensory activity. [00:08:00] In fact, you would say it's sensational. And that, that used to really bug me, that that's all surfing was. The whole thing's just sensational. And I was challenging myself. What, or am I trying to ascribe too much to what surfing is?Am I trying to add too much value to it? 'cause I'm so either ridiculously into it or, or am I trying to put meaning to something that really doesn't have meaning and therefore make it okay? And no, I love it. I'm so grateful for it. I think it's entirely creative. If you want it to be. And, and I, I think the whole thing is art beyond, beyond words because you can't find the words to explain something to somebody else that meant so much to you.And over time those meanings and those things compound. So sport's cute, but I like to do art and I really, I really think because of that, you could be put [00:09:00] into, oh yeah, well you're an artist. And I'll kick back on that saying I think we're all artists and I, I've practiced art a lot and I've also practiced surfing a lot.And therefore I see the similarities and, you know, I think it's, , the act of surfing it, it really needs to be. Put together as, uh, the adjective and the noun. I guess now I'm talking out of turn, but the, the practice of surfing is something I like to say sometimes audibly. It's like, I'm going to practice surfing today.And it changes the energy in the, in the approach or, , the act of surfing lifestyle, the surfing lifestyle or the surfing life. , These are words you read on book covers, but I think they're really well thought out, you know? , So I don't mind how surfing's explained. I just don't like to be, I don't like to to have end points within my own understanding of it, because it keeps showing itself to be bigger and more beautiful and deeper [00:10:00] and with a bigger and broader community of, of things indescribable for all points of view.And for me, that's important and I'm grateful to be part of that. But, , that's more of a, , gallery setting than a stadium. Mm. And both are cute and both, both are necessary, but I would, I would prefer to be at the gallery. Yeah. No, that was beautiful. I loved that. And , the more I think about it and the more I analyze it, it actually makes me realize that surfing more and more is an art and not a sport.. It is a sport as well, don't get me wrong. If you go by those, , the definitions in air quotes, and I think for a lot of people it is only a sport because it's just something they do for a little bit of recreation here and there. And then obviously, obviously you've got the highly competitive people who treat it as a competitive sport.But for most of us, and I'd say everyone listening to this show, it is an art Donald Brink: for sure. [00:11:00] Donald Brink: And I think I'm not against sport. And that's where I think this could be like, it's like, are you for sport or are you for art? And that sounds like we're both for both. But I love the concept of sport. I just, I, I just think if I had to shake, that's why I was, I'm gonna choose one lane to honor that.So it's like, uh, I think it's more art than sports. , Yeah. Yes. And the other thing too is that it's so personal and it's like there's not many other sports which have such a, , closed feedback loop within just oneself. Like a team sport would naturally be your team player when you enter the ocean., You might be amongst people, but you're really playing different games on the same court. You know, it's you and the ocean and your thoughts, but , the, the school is within your own life and you take away what I call stoke or those little joyous moments. Frustrating ones too. So there's wins and losses, but they, they're kept within one's own heart.[00:12:00] Mm-hmm. Donald Brink: And therefore, it's hard to show me another sport where that happens. So consistently at choice. Yeah. No surfing is closer to music than it is tennis.Donald Brink: Like, I like the concept. What I do like about parameters is they produce really good art. If somebody commissions you to do a piece and you have to, and there's a couple of confines or a narrative script or whatever, it, it really helps give a narrative guideline. And, and it, I think it helps produce good art.Agreed. Putting some confines and so that's why surfing competition is actually really interesting. Just to put a clock against the heat. You surfing against the clock. They're all really good. So. I, I do think therefore you could even argue, that's why the art's so good, because now that's you've put confines.Well, that's the [00:13:00] irony of it all. You look at a competitive surfer. The the ones that win, they're the, they're the best artists. The, I think the only competition in competitive surfing is like the strategy stuff, not the surfing itself. Right? It's the strategy and all that other bs. But once you're on a wave, even John, John surfing a wave in a competition is art.And that's why he's so good, because he is an artist. He's dancing with the wave. Donald Brink: I, I agree. , And so therefore it's like, yeah, those confines produced better art, so therefore it's art. It's, but my, back to my point, it's like trying to think of another sport where you are, , selecting to be so individualistic in your pursuits over and over.. 'Cause people often look at surfing at, at first glance, it seems like quite a selfish activity. And I'm sure it can be. I mean, it certainly can be. , But when you realize if you could cultivate your fascination for the sea, [00:14:00] it could be, , you could be a better husband for the teacher partner by your not surfing too much and also not surfing too little, right?It's pretty simple. So once you balance that fascination, that gets very, very powerful. And I don't see, or at least I can't think of another sport. 'cause I often think, man, what if I didn't get to surf or I couldn't surf anymore? Like, what would I switch this out for? And it, it ends in tears every time.I'm like, I've gotten so much outta surfing. And then you're like, man, am I so shallow that I, I hedge so much on this and I'm sure I'll find something or get really busy doing other things. , But. I can't, you know, I can't, I can't, I can't imagine replacing it. And I think you'd have to replace it with many things.. Yeah. To Donald Brink: fill the complexity of the, and that's why it's unique. That's what I love about it. It's so complex, like these central downloads that you go and get and those humbling [00:15:00] experiences, like being scared in the ocean is something that I do not take, take lightly. I mean, scared for your life at times.And that is such a gift to choose to do because many people don't get scared by choice often…

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