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    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Starting in the wonderful hobby of Amateur or HAM Radio can be daunting and challenging but can be very rewarding. Every week I look at a different aspect of the hobby, how you might fit in and get the very best from the 1000 hobbies that Amateur Radio represents. Note that this podcast started in 2011 as “What use is an F-call?“.

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    Copyright: ℗ & © 2015 - 2020 Onno Benschop

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    Latest Episodes:
    Let's compare the same antenna in different locations... Nov 12, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Let's compare the same antenna in different locations...

    Over the years I've spent many hours building and testing antennas. I've talked about this and discussed how there is essentially an infinite variety of antennas that can exist. To give you a sense of this, picture a basic dipole antenna, two bits of wire, same length, connected to a feed-point. We're doing this experiment in space, so we're not concerned with trees or rope, or the ground for that matter, more on those shortly.

    We can make this dipole straight, or we can make it into a V-shape, or bend over the edges, or make each side into a half-circle and join them, or make them into a spiral, or kink the wires, or bend them over, or any number of variations. Every time you change something, the antenna radiation pattern changes and the antenna behaves differently. While at its heart the antenna might still be considered a dipole, essentially a change in radiation pattern effectively means a different antenna.

    In those changes or wire orientation alone we have already defined an infinite number of antennas, but that only scratches the surface. We can build an infinite variety of physical antennas. Consider the design of vertical antennas, loop antennas, log periodic antennas, yagi antennas, slot antennas, and beverage antennas to name a few.

    Once you start investigating antennas you'll discover just how many options there are and once you've acquired the antenna of your dreams, the work is only just beginning.

    To explain why this is the case, consider the process of finding an antenna to buy or build. You'll find breathless reports of how amazing an antenna is and how it allowed the operator to hear a mosquito land on the back of a container ship in the middle of a tropical cyclone whilst the sunspot activity was at an all time low. Right next to those reports you'll find another amateur describing how their dummy load performed better and cost less.

    If not those specific examples, you'll have no doubt found both positive and negative reviews for the very same antenna, often side-by-side and if you don't, you're not looking hard enough.

    Leaving aside the notion that someone is trying to discredit a commercial competitor or that the antennas are inadvertently physically different, because someone put it together incorrectly, there's plenty of opportunity for other reasons for this wide range of opinion.

    Let's take the popular G5RV antenna, invented in 1946 by Louis G5RV, who became a silent key on June 28, 2000. The antenna is a multi-band HF antenna and there are plenty of people offering plans and kits for this antenna. Ignoring the differences in plans, let's imagine that two amateurs purchased the exact same G5RV from the same batch from the same supplier. Both erect their antennas at their home shack, or QTH and get on air to make noise. At a local BBQ they get together and compare notes only to discover that the two antennas are behaving completely differently.

    How is this possible? What other factors might cause this experience?

    You're not going to like my answer, but "it depends". The height at which the antenna is erected, how tight you pull it between two trees, how you feed it, the type of coax you use, how much power your transmitter uses, how close it is to another object like a fence or a house, what type of ground is below the antenna, what the local noise floor is like, which direction it's oriented, which day you use it and finally, what colour clothes you're wearing at the time.

    That last one isn't strictly true, but it serves to highlight that some differences exist that are so innocuous as to be laughable, for example, have you considered the type of tree and how much foliage there is, when the lawn below the antenna was last watered, etc. My point is that some differences aren't obvious, but they can, and do, make an antenna behave differently.

    In other words, the environment around two identical antennas is hardly ever the same and thus the antenna system as a whole, since the environment and the antenna together combine into a system, are never the same.

    This means that when you go about finding an antenna that's suitable for you, the reviews you read are only part of the story. If the antenna needs ground radials that are physically not possible at your site, then that antenna is unlikely to be suitable for your situation, regardless of the glowing reviews.

    As I said, in my time I've built and bought plenty of antennas. I've also tried several by way of my local amateur radio club. I've operated a mobile station from my car, set-up a portable station in numerous locations using the exact same antenna, and learnt that while the environment is almost never discussed, it has by far the biggest influence on the performance of your antenna.

    My recommendation is to pick an antenna, any antenna, cheap is good, and start. Play with it, change how you erect it, set it up in different locations and I'd highly recommend that you do this with a friend. Between the two of you the shared installation can be used as a baseline to compare your own antenna against and if you're both comparing notes against what you built together, you'll both have a better chance of understanding what particular difference matters in your own setup.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Let's talk about reciprosity... Nov 05, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    All antennas have a radiation pattern that charts on a sphere where it radiates more and where it radiates less than the theoretical isotropic radiator. This comparison is expressed as dBi antenna gain.

    There is a fundamental concept in antenna design called "reciprocity". Essentially it means that transmit and receive behaviour of an antenna is identical. In other words, the radiation pattern of an antenna applies for both transmitting and receiving of signals.

    Unfortunately, this does not mean that if two stations are communicating and one can hear the other, the reverse is also true. Let me explain why.

    Let's set the scene. Imagine two stations, me, VK6FLAB at Lake Monger, in Perth, Western Australia and Charles NK8O in the Lake of the Ozarks state park within the Ozark Mountains in central Missouri. We're both on the 10m HF band and in this story I've finally managed to learn Morse code and I'm "talking" to Charles, mind you, Charles apparently does have a microphone, so perhaps this might actually happen one day.

    To simplify things, we both have the same antenna, the same radio, the same power level, we both love low power or QRP operation, and while we're keeping it simple, we have the same ground conductivity and we're both experiencing the same very low noise levels. While we're constructing this fantasy, the communication paths for both our stations are identical. Note that I said paths, more on that shortly.

    In that situation, both Charles and I have the same experience. We can hear each other at the same level, our S-meter has the same reading, and apart from my current inability to actually use Morse code, our readability is identical. You might think this is "reciprocity", but it's not as simple as that.

    I'm parked near a lake in the middle of a city and often other vehicles come and go. One new arrival has a solar panel on the roof with a noisy inverter and suddenly the local noise in my location jumps from S0 to S6.

    The vehicle arrives whilst I'm transmitting, so at first nothing happens. Charles continues to hear my signal at the same level and at my end I'm blissfully unaware of any change, until I stop transmitting, when I hear the noise. Meanwhile, Charles starts his transmission and I cannot hear him because the local noise in my location is louder than his wanted signal. At this point, Charles still has the ability to hear me, but I can no longer hear him, even though our equipment is identical. The only change is the local noise floor at my location which interferes with my ability to receive the signals coming from Charles.

    This means that I can still send "again, again, local QRM" and I can do so as often as I want. Charles will hear this without any issue, but I won't hear his reply until the local noise stops.

    What this highlights is that two-way communication between two stations involves two signal paths. They might, or might not, follow the same journey through the ionosphere and be between two identical antennas, but the experience for either station can be, and almost always is, completely different.

    Because the ability to transmit isn't affected by local noise at the transmitter, it doesn't figure into the total path loss when you're calculating it for the receiving station. However, when the roles are reversed, it does. So when you're receiving, you need to take into account your local noise, but when you're transmitting, you don't.

    So, when Charles is transmitting to me, I need to take into account my local noise and ignore his, and when I'm transmitting to Charles, he needs to take into account his local noise, but not mine.

    This is how you can have so-called "alligator" stations, all mouth, no ears. The station is likely using high power with a high gain antenna in a noisy environment. This means that everyone can hear them, but because their local noise is so high, they can often only hear other alligators, but not the rest of the world who can perfectly hear them. If you encounter a station on-air that keeps calling CQ, regardless of how many people are calling back, that's an "alligator".

    So, the takeaway is that even if you can hear a station, it doesn't mean that they can hear you and the reverse is also true. You can be transmitting and heard all over the place, but if you're in a high noise environment, you might not be able to hear them. It's one reason that QRP stations prefer to work in low noise environments where they can hear many more stations.

    It reminds me of a funny story told by Wally VK6YS, now SK. In his early amateur radio days he operated from Cockatoo Island, an island off the north coast of Western Australia, near Yampi Sound, which is where his callsign came from. With a new radio and transverter for 6m, Wally had been calling CQ for weeks, but nobody would talk to him. Occasionally he'd hear a faint voice in the background. Meanwhile it transpired that amateurs across Japan were getting upset that he wasn't responding to their 20 and 40 over 9 signal reports. His transmission was getting out just fine, his receiver wasn't working nearly as well. Turns out that during manufacturing, a pin on the back of his transverter hadn't been soldered correctly. Once he fixed that, he worked 150 Japanese stations on the first day and a lifelong love of the 6m band was born.

    In other words, just because someone can hear you, doesn't mean that you can hear them, sometimes it's noise and sometimes its a faulty connector.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Let's talk about gain ... Oct 29, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    After recently talking about noise, today I want to discuss gain, specifically antenna gain. When you say that your antenna has 18 dBi gain, what does that mean?

    This entire discussion starts with an isotropic radiator or antenna. It's often described as the perfect antenna, but rarely is there any description on how that actually works, so I'd like to start there.

    Before we dig in too much, it's worth remembering that an isotropic antenna is a thought experiment, it cannot physically exist, but it's a useful tool for comparing antennas.

    Antennas have a physical size. There's often a direct relationship between the size of the antenna and the frequencies for which it works best. A lower frequency means a longer wavelength and corresponding large antenna to handle that radio frequency. In contrast, an isotropic antenna is infinitesimally small and responds equally well for all frequencies.

    Similarly, unlike an actual antenna, an isotropic antenna is symmetric in all directions, that is, there's no difference between the back or the front, the top or the bottom, the left or the right. You can position an isotropic antenna in any orientation and there's no difference, not just no detectable difference, no actual difference. The radiation pattern is a perfect sphere.

    As I said, the isotropic antenna is an imaginary, let's call it, ideal antenna, that's used as the base reference to measure all antennas against.

    When you use the word gain in relation to an antenna, you're using the unit dBi and in doing so, you're comparing the antenna against this imaginary perfect isotropic antenna.

    When you see that the gain of an antenna is 2.15 dBi, you're saying that this antenna performs better than the isotropic antenna and does so by 2.15 dB.

    There's one "minor" detail missing in that statement.

    The full statement, often completely overlooked, is that this antenna performs better than the isotropic antenna and does so by 2.15 dB, in some directions, but not all.

    Said differently, antenna gain comes from distorting the ideal, perfect sphere into different shapes. For example, the 2.15 dBi gain of a horizontal dipole antenna distorts into a squashed doughnut on its side.

    In other words, there are directions where a dipole radiates better and has an increased gain when compared to an isotropic antenna, but there are also directions where it radiates worse, much worse, if at all. In the case of a dipole, it receives best from the side and worst in line with the antenna and I'll point out that the doughnut is also an idealised shape that in turn gets distorted by proximity to other objects, like the ground.

    Consider that a dipole has 2.15 dBi gain over an isotropic antenna. This means that, for some directions the gain is increased and for some directions it's decreased, perhaps even eliminated. In other words, in some direction, the antenna amplifies the signal and in other directions it attenuates the signal, potentially even to zero at a so-called null in an antenna radiation pattern.

    As I've said before, an antenna receives a combination of both wanted signal and unwanted noise. For an isotropic antenna all signals, from any direction, both wanted and unwanted, are treated the same. This is not true for an antenna that has gain.

    Consider an antenna that exhibits gain in one specific direction and loss in all other directions. If you were to point that antenna at a wanted signal, the incoming signal would be amplified in that direction and attenuated in all other directions. If noise comes from all directions equally, most of the noise would be attenuated and only a little bit of noise coming from the same direction as the wanted signal is amplified.

    Overall, this means that the total amount of incoming noise is reduced in comparison to the wanted signal. In other words, the noise floor is reduced and the signal level is increased, making the signal more audible above the noise.

    This means that the impact of antenna gain is that the Signal to Noise Ratio is improved for an incoming signal in comparison to local noise.

    Notice also, that the antenna gain works in multiple ways. It serves to improve the local signal to noise ratio, by attenuating noise and amplifying a wanted signal, but it also increases the transmitted signal that's sent towards the other station.

    Both affect your station's performance, but do so at different sides of the communication link and because we're talking about two separate signals, an incoming one and an outgoing one, the optimal direction might not be the same for both.

    So, now what do you think the impact might be of adding an 18 dBi Yagi to your station?

    I also have a supplementary question. If a commercial antenna is compared with a dipole, using the dBd unit, is the antenna compared to the entire radiation pattern of a dipole and if so, at what height from what type of ground and is that a useful comparison, or hiding the true performance of such an antenna?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Let's talk about noise ... Oct 22, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Today I'd like to talk about noise, but before I do, I need to cover some ground. Recently I explored the idea that, on their own, neither antenna, nor coax, made a big difference in the potential for a contact when compared to the impact of path loss between two stations.

    I went on to point out that you'd be unlikely to even notice the difference in normal communications. Only when you're working at the margins, when the signal is barely detectable, would adding a single dB here or there make any potential difference.

    In saying that, I skipped over one detail, noise.

    Noise is by definition an unwanted signal that arrives together with a wanted signal at the receiver. In HF communications, noise comes from many sources, the galaxy, our atmosphere, and man-made noise from things like electrical switches, motors, alternator circuits, inverters and computers.

    The example I used was my 10 dBm beacon being reported by an Antarctic station. My signal report was about 5 dB above the minimum decode level and based on signal path calculations, -129 dBm, or around an S0 signal level. What that statement hides is that this is in the context of a noise level that's lower than -129 dBm. Remember, a negative dBm value means a fraction of a milliwatt.

    While you're considering that, think of the reality of an Antarctic station. This particular station, "Neumayer III" has three 75 kW diesel generators, a 30 kW wind turbine generator, 20 caterpillar trucks, 10 snowmobiles and 2 snow blowers and computers and technology to support 60 people, in other words, plenty of local noise.

    This makes it all the more remarkable that my 10 dBm beacon was heard and that there was an amateur there to set-up the receiver in the first place.

    Before I continue, picture mountain tops peaking through the top of a cloud layer as viewed from the window of an aeroplane. If the cloud layer increases in height, less and less mountain tops are visible, until at some point, only clouds are visible. Alternatively, if the cloud layer descends, more and more of the peaks are visible, until at some point no cloud remains and you see the mountains in all their magnificent glory.

    In that analogy, mountains represent signals and the cloud layer is the equivalent of the noise floor, and in a similar way, signals can be heard or not, depending on the relationship between the level of noise in comparison to the level of the signal. There's a name for this, it's called the signal to noise ratio or SNR, where a value of 0 dB means that noise and signal are at the same level, negative SNR values mean that the signal is weaker than the noise, positive SNR values means that the signal is stronger than the noise. If you know the power level in dBm for both the noise and the signal, you can subtract the two and end up with the signal to noise ratio.

    In reality, all receiving stations have to contend with noise.

    If I arbitrarily set the local noise floor at -100 dBm, somewhere halfway between S4 and S5, I'll mostly get laughed at by many stations, either because it's too high or too low. In case you're wondering, I've worked my station in both S0 noise and S9 noise environments and it's fun trying either and comparing. It's one of the reasons I often use a mobile station, to get away from urban noise around me, and you don't have to go far, a local park might be far enough from local noise to whet your appetite.

    Besides, -100 dBm is a nice round number to play with.

    You might recall that a typical path loss number for a 2,500 km contact on HF on the 10m band is about 129 dB. With a noise floor of -100 dBm, we immediately know how much output power is required to be heard above the noise. If the received signal has to be at least more than -100 dBm and we know that the path loss is 129 dB, then our transmitted signal needs to at least be enough to make up the difference.

    Said differently, if our output power is too low, the signal at the receive station will fall below the noise and they won't be able to hear us.

    So, if we start at say 30 dBm, have a path loss of 129 dB, we'll end up at -99 dBm, which is 1 dB above -100 dBm. Said in another way, the SNR for this is 1 dB.

    I'd like you to notice something.

    I've said nothing about the noise floor at the transmitter. We could have low noise, or horrendous noise, either way, it makes no difference to the receiver. What it hears is entirely dependent on the noise floor at the receiving station.

    I wonder if that observation changes anything about what you think the impact might be of adding an 18 dBi Yagi to your station?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    How much does your coax and antenna matter? Oct 15, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Recently I explained some of the reasons why I've shifted to using dBm to discuss power. You might recall that 1 Watt is defined as 1,000 mW and that's represented by 30 dBm. 10 Watts is 40 dBm, 400 Watts, the maximum power output in Australia is 56 dBm and 1,500 Watts, the maximum in the USA, is just under 62 dBm. My favourite power level, 5 Watts, is 37 dBm.

    I mentioned that using dBm allows us to create a continuous scale between the transmitted power and the received signal. On HF, an S9 report is defined as -73 dBm. Between each S-point lies 6 dB, so an S8 signal is -79 dBm, S7 is -85 dBm and so-on to S0, which is -127 dBm. Said differently, to increase the received signal by one S-point you need to quadruple the power output.

    Now, let's consider a contact with a 100 Watt station, 50 dBm. Let's imagine that the receiver reports an S8 signal. That means that between a transmitter output of 50 dBm and the received signal at -79 dBm, there's a loss of 129 dB. If we dial the power down to 5 Watts, our 37 dBm will be received at -92 dBm, and earn a S6 report, which, in my experience, is pretty common. If we instead use the maximum power permitted in Australia, we'd gain 6 dB and end up at -73 dBm, or S9. The maximum power output permitted in the United States, 62 dBm, is only 6 dB higher and not even enough to get you "10 over 9" at the other end.

    At this point I could say, see, "QRP, when you care to send the very least", and be done with it. While it's true in my not so humble opinion, that's not where I'm going with this.

    That 129 dB of loss is made up of a bunch of things. For example, there's the coax loss at either end, the antenna gain at either end and a big one, the path loss between the two antennas.

    Let's assume for a moment that coax loss and antenna gain cancel each other out. You might think that's nuts, but consider that 100 m of RG58 coax on the 10m band has a loss of around 8 dB and a dipole has an isotropic gain of 2.15 dBi. In case you're not sure what that means, a dipole has a gain of 2.15 dB over the ideal radiator, a theoretical isotropic antenna. Now it's unlikely that you are going to connect a dipole to 100 m of RG58, so let's say a quarter, or 25 m instead. The coax loss is also quartered, or about 2 dB, which pretty much means that your dipole gain and your coax loss essentially cancel each other out.

    So, as a working number, assuming both stations are similar and ignoring SWR mismatch, pre-amplifiers, filters, and all manner of other tweaks in the signal path, 129 dB loss is a good starting point to work with. If you use a free space path loss calculator, that's the equivalent of the loss for a 2,500 km contact on HF on the 10 m band.

    Now, if you were to replace the RG58 with something like RG213 coax, the loss drops from around 2 dB to 0.9 dB, so your signal just increased in strength by 1.1 dB, or not enough to make any difference in this example.

    Of course there's a benefit in using lower loss coax, I mean, 1.1 dB gain isn't nothing, but it really only matters when the conditions are marginal. If you're going to run your coax to the other side of a paddock, you might discover that your signal changes by a whole S-point, but realistically, most of the time you're not going to notice.

    Similarly, and perhaps more importantly, in the scheme of things, your antenna is also just fiddling around the edges when compared to the path loss of 129 dB. For example, if you double your antenna gain, you're only seeing an improvement of half an S-point and most likely you won't actually notice.

    Before you grab the nearest chicken to pluck feathers to come after me with, I'd like to point out that each element on their own has a minimal impact on the total system, but that doesn't mean that improving your station is useless, far from it. If you use quality coax, have an antenna that is performing well, is a good match to your transmitter and coax, use appropriate filters and pre-amplification, you're likely to make more contacts more often, but the bottom line is that you actually need to be on air to make noise and ultimately that's going to represent the biggest improvement in your station performance.

    Case in point, the other day my WSPR or Weak Signal Reporter beacon, with 10 dBm output, was reported 7,808 km away by DP0GVN, the club station of the German Antarctic Research Station "Neumayer III" in Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, a first for me. WSPR reported that as a signal of -26 dB.

    Previously I proved that when WSPR reports -31 dB, about 75% of decodes are successful. In other words, we can think of my report as being 5 dB above the minimum decode level. This is interesting for several reasons, least of which is that a report of -26 dB doesn't appear to have a relationship to anything else, something which I've observed before.

    Looking further, if we use our notional 129 dB loss figure and start at the beacon power of 10 dBm, we end up at -119 dBm, which is between S1 and S2. In reality, the path loss for that contact is more likely to be in the order of 10 dB worse, making the signal at the receiver -129 dBm or around S0. In those kinds of marginal conditions, where there's 5 dB between being heard and not, finding an extra dB or two in better coax or antenna is absolutely worth the investment, but if you're in a contest making points, you're not going to care. Being on the right band, pointing in the right direction and being on-air making contacts is going to be much more important.

    That said, I'll leave you with a question. Given our obsession with antennas, what might the impact be of adding an 18 dBi Yagi to your station?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Gadgets on Demand Oct 08, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The other day I went looking for a software defined radio or SDR for HF. This happened because all such devices on my desk are rated at higher frequencies and I've still not managed to fix the broken SMA board connector on the transverter I purchased over a year and a half ago.

    In case you're wondering, the design has two SMA connectors attached at either end of a printed circuit board, also known as a PCB. The board slides into a metal case and both connectors are tightened to either side of the case, which causes the problem when the circuit board is slightly shorter than the case and the nuts pull the connector apart, causing the device to fail.

    Replacing the SMA board connectors would be relatively simple, but they appear hard to come by and the micro SMA connectors that a friend purchased to help, changed the task into finding adaptors, which I've not managed to solve yet.

    I'm detailing this all for a purpose, trust me.

    Anyway, the hunt for an SDR for HF lead me to a project called "Radioberry". It's a design by Johan PA3GSB which is designed to be a so-called "hat" for a Raspberry Pi. Think of it as an expansion card to create functionality, in this case a radio capable of transmitting and receiving on HF, covering 0 to 30 MHz, perfect for my current needs.

    The design uses a Raspberry Pi computer to power and control the board, including programming the on-board FPGA, accessing the actual data and sharing that with the user, either via a touch screen, or using USB, Ethernet, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. The board itself has two external connectors, one for transmit, one for receive and when you combine it with the Pi, fits neatly into a box which you could 3D print. Amplifier and band filters are left as an exercise to the enterprising amateur, though there is an amplifier design on the github repository. If you're curious, it's based on the work by the Hermes Lite 2 group.

    Johan specifically doesn't sell this device, instead you can choose to buy it from other enterprising individuals, or better still, build your own. Over the last few years I've started noticing several people in the so-called maker community, people, who a lot like radio amateurs, build stuff for fun, using online printed circuit board services.

    If you're unfamiliar with the concept, you can design a schematic, layout a PCB, have it manufactured and optionally even built and sent to you. To get an idea of what this might look like, I picked a random online supplier, uploaded the specifications for a Radioberry and costed the whole thing. Suffice to say that the biggest charge is the $50 set-up fee.

    Any enterprising engineer would have punched the "Buy Now" button and be done with it, but in some things I'm pretty cautious, so I haven't, yet. I don't know enough about the design or schematic to know how it works, to troubleshoot it, to fix any potential issues, or even to know what kinds of issues there might be, even if they're obvious to anyone with electronics experience.

    To make it clear, my electronics experience is rudimentary at best. I'm comfortable with block diagrams, understand the basic principles behind most passive elements, but if you're going to get into trace length and signal timing, I'm not anywhere even remotely qualified to troubleshoot, let alone spot problems. That's not to say that I am stopping before I start, the opposite is true.

    I'm using this as an experience to gently get my feet wet.

    Back to the apparently too detailed explanation of the transverter. Joining the dots you can probably guess where I'm going with this. Given the access to countless documented transverter designs, I feel comfortable enough to work on a design, construct a PCB and have it manufactured. At the rate I'm going, that should get a solution before I can find a PCB edge-mounted SMA connector, well, at least that's my excuse. I'm also eyeing off this same process to build a logging volt meter, since the Internet seems to believe that I should pay hundreds of dollars for a volt meter and an I/O port, even if the chip inside costs all of $6.

    Oh, the transverter I purchased a year and a half ago costs three times as much as having five of them built on demand, so there's that.

    For all my life I've been a firm believer in software. I've also been on a computer driven manufacturing journey for a couple of years, still in the process of commissioning my new toys, much to the merriment of some of my fellow amateurs and the idea that I can have a circuit design built and shipped to my door just makes me tingle with anticipation.

    If you're already ahead of me on this journey, please don't hesitate to point at any potholes on the road and if you're following along, if you break it, you get to keep both parts.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    All the power in the observable universe expressed in milliwatts ... Oct 01, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    If you've been following my amateur radio journey, you'll have likely noticed that I've been straying from the fold. The words I use for power have been changing. I've reduced references to Watt and increased use of the term decibel.

    Initially this was incidental, recently it's been more of a deliberate decision and I'd like to explain how this came to be. It starts with representing really big and really small numbers.

    Let's start big.

    On 14 September, 2015 the first direct observation of gravitational waves was made when a pair of black holes with a combined estimated weight of 65 solar masses merged. The signal was named GW150914, combining "Gravitational Wave" and the observation date to immortalise the event.

    Following the collision, it was estimated that the radiated energy from the resulting gravitational waves was 50 times the combined power output of all the light from all the stars in the observable universe. As a number in Watts, that's 36 followed by 48 zeros. If you're curious, there's even a word for that, 36 Quindecillion Watts.

    Now let's look at small. The typical signal strength received from a GPS satellite, like say by your phone, is about 178 attowatts, or in Watts, 0.000 and so on, in all, 13 zeros between the decimal point and then 178.

    What if I told you that the energy associated with the collision of those two black holes could be expressed in comparison with a milliwatt. Remember, this collision emitted more energy than all the output of light from all the stars in the observable universe. The expression for all that power is 526 dBm.

    Similarly, the tiny received GPS signal can be expressed as -127.5 dBm.

    Just let that sink in. All the power in the observable universe through to the minuscule power received by the GPS in your phone, all expressed between 526 dBm and -127.5 dBm, and not a zero in sight.

    As I mentioned, the unit dBm relates to a milliwatt. As a starting point, let me tell you that 1 Watt is 1,000 milliwatts and is represented by 30 dBm.

    The decibel scale doesn't work quite the same as other number ranges you might be used to. Adding the value 3 doubles its size and adding the value 10 increases its size by a factor 10.

    For example, to double power from 1 Watt or 30 dBm, add 3 and get 33 dBm, which is the same as 2 Watts. If you want to increase 1 Watt by a factor 10, again, starting with 30 dBm, add 10 and get 40 dBm which is 10 Watts. Similarly, 50 dBm is 100 Watts and 60 dBm is 1,000 Watts.

    Going the other way, halving power, remove 3. So taking 3 from 60 dBm is 500 Watts or 57 dBm. Dividing power by a factor 10 works the same, take 10. So 47 dBm is 50 Watts and 37 dBm is 5 Watts.

    If you get lost, remember, dBm relates to a milliwatt. 1 Watt is 1,000 milliwatts and is represented by 30 dBm. Divide by a factor 1,000, remove 30 and end up with 0 dBm, which is the same as 1 milliwatt. I'll say that again, 0 dBm is the same as 1 milliwatt.

    It takes a little getting used to, but you can do some nifty things. For example, remove 10 to get a tenth of a milliwatt, or -10 dBm.

    This same process of adding and subtracting applies in other ways too. Attenuation, or making a signal weaker, and amplification, or making a signal stronger can use the same rules.

    For example, if you apply 3 dB of attenuation, you're making the signal 3 dB weaker, or halving it, so you subtract 3 dB from your power output. If your amplifier is rated at 6 dB gain, you're quadrupling the output and you add 6 dB to your power output.

    Similarly, if you talk about the gain of an antenna, you add it. If the gain is 20 dBi, you add it to the power output. You can use this for coax loss calculations as well. A 100m length of RG-58 at 28 MHz has a loss of 8 dB. You can directly subtract this from the power output of the transmitter and know precisely how much power is making it to the antenna.

    There's more. The radio amateur S9 signal strength on HF, something which we consider to be a strong signal, can be expressed as -73 dBm or a very small fraction of a milliwatt. An S8 signal is 6 dB weaker, or -79 dBm. A 20 over 9 report is -53 dBm. I will point out that this is at 50 Ohm.

    As a result, we now have a continuous scale for all the elements in the transmission chain between the transmitter and the receiver.

    While I'm here, I've already mentioned that negative dBm readings relate to fractions of a milliwatt, so values between 0 and 1.

    This highlights one limitation of this scale. We cannot represent 0 Watts. Mind you, that doesn't happen all that often. The thermal noise floor in space at 1 Hz bandwidth, that's at 4 kelvins, is -192.5 dBm, which practically means the minimum level of power we need to express. It's also a good value to remember because if you're doing funky calculations and you end up with a number less than -192.5 dBm, you can pretty much guarantee that you've probably made a boo-boo.

    0 Watts using the dBm scale is represented by negative infinity, or essentially a division by zero error, really not defined, so there's that.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Between decibels and milliwatts ... Sep 24, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Between decibels and milliwatts ...

    As you might recall, I've been working towards using a cheap $20 RTL-SDR dongle to measure the second and third harmonic of a handheld radio in an attempt to discover how realistic that is as a solution when compared to using professional equipment like a Hewlett Packard 8920A RF Communications Test Set.

    I spent quite some time discussing how to protect the receiver against the transmitter output and described a methodology to calculate just how much attenuation might be needed and what level of power handling. With that information in-hand, for reference, I used two 30 dB attenuators, one capable of handling 10 Watts and one capable of handling 2 Watts. In case you're wondering, it's not the dummy load with variable attenuation that I was discussing recently.

    I ended up using a simple command-line tool, rtl-power, something which I've discussed before. You can use it to measure power output between a set of frequencies. In my case I measured for 5 seconds each, at the base frequency on the 2m band, on the second and on the third harmonic and to be precise, I measured 100 kHz around the frequencies we're looking at.

    This generated a chunk of data, specifically I created just over a thousand power readings every second for 15 seconds. I then put those numbers into a spreadsheet, averaged these and then charted the result. The outcome was a chart with three lines, one for each test frequency range. As you'd expect, the line for the 2m frequency range showed a lovely peak at the centre frequency, similarly, there was a peak for the other two related frequencies.

    The measurement data showed that the power measurement for 146.5 MHz was nearly 7 dB, for 293 MHz it was -44 dB and for 439.5 MHz it was -31 dB. If you've been paying attention, you'll notice that I used dB, not dBm or dBW in those numbers, more on that shortly.

    From a measurement perspective we learnt that the second harmonic is 51 dB below the primary power output and the third harmonic was about 38 dB below the primary power output.

    First observation to make is that these numbers are less than shown on the HP Test Set where those numbers were 60 dB and 62 dB respectively.

    Second observation, potentially more significant, is that pesky dB thing I skipped over earlier.

    If you recall, when someone says dB, they're referring to a ratio of something. When they refer to dBm, they're referring to a ratio in relation to 1 milliwatt. This means that when I say that the power reading was 7 dB, I'm saying that it's a ratio in relation to something, but I haven't specified the relationship. As I said, that's on purpose.

    Let me explain.

    When you use an RTL-SDR dongle to read power levels, you're essentially reading numbers from a chip that is converting voltages to numbers. In this case the chip is an Analog to Digital Converter or an ADC. At no point has any one defined what the number 128 means. It could mean 1 Volt, or it could mean 1 mV, or 14.532 mV, or something completely different. In other words, we don't actually know the absolute value that we're measuring. We can only compare values.

    In this case we can say that when we're measuring on the 2m band we get a range of numbers that represent the voltage measured along those frequencies. When we then measure around the second harmonic, we're doing the same thing, possibly even using the same scale, so we know that if we get 128 back both times we might assume the voltage is the same in both cases, we just don't actually know how much the voltage is. We could say that there's no difference between the two, or 0 dB, but we cannot say how high or low the voltage is.

    This is another way of describing something I've discussed before, calibration.

    So, if I had a tool that could output a specific, known RF power level, and fed that into the receiver and measured, I could determine the relationship between my particular receiver and that particular power level. I could then measure at all three frequencies and determine if the numbers were actually the same for these three frequencies, which is what I've been assuming, but we don't actually know for sure right now.

    So, at this point we need a known RF signal generator. The list of tools is growing. I've already used a NanoVNA to calibrate my attenuators and I've used a HP RF Communications Test Set to compare notes with.

    At this point you might realise that we're not yet able to make any specific observations about using a dongle to make harmonic measurements, but you can make pretty pictures...

    There's a good chance that you're becoming frustrated with this process, but I'd like to point out that at the beginning of this journey I can tell you that I had no idea what the outcome might be and obviously, that's the nature of experimentation.

    If you have some ideas on how to explore further, feel free to get in touch.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Wet and Blue adventures with coax ... Sep 17, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Over the weekend a friend of mine convinced me to help plant some trees. Mind you, I was told that this was going to be a blue tree painting day. The Blue Tree Project is now a global awareness campaign that paints dead trees blue to spread the message that "it's OK to not be OK", and help break down the stigma that's still largely attached to mental health.

    In the process, I learnt that my physical stamina is not what it once was and my current appetite for bending over and shovelling dirt is, let's call it, muted.

    After the digging and the sausage sizzle under the branches of an actual blue tree, there was some opportunity for playing radio, something I haven't done in much too long. I wasn't sure when I last got into the fresh air to actually listen, but I must confess, the coax cable that I picked up out of my shed had been hanging there for several years.

    The location where we planned to play was in a rural setting, right next to a dam, which surprisingly actually had water in it. The idea was to set-up a vertical antenna with a couple of ground radials, plug in a radio and have a listen. I have to say, after the digging I was really looking forward to this.

    My piece of coax, about 20 meters long, was used to connect the antenna to the radio so we could sit in the shade whilst the antenna stood out in the sun near the dam.

    The antenna, a telescopic one, came with a ground spike and about eight radials and needed to be tuned to some extent, as-in, near-enough is close enough, since we had an antenna tuner with our radio. To achieve the tuning we wanted to connect a NanoVNA to the coax which was the first challenge. The BNC connectors on my coax were pretty dull, likely a combination of poor quality, accumulated dust, humidity and lack of use.

    As an added bonus the centre pin on one end seemed a little bent.

    After working out how to get an SMA adaptor into the connectors we were in business. Connected up between the antenna and the NanoVNA we set out to get things lined up. The SWR on the display, hard to read in the full sun at the best of times, seemed to be a little odd. Not something I could put my finger on, but if you've seen enough SWR plots you know what it's supposed to look like and for some reason it didn't.

    We bravely carried on, connected the radio to the coax and started tuning around. Didn't seem to be a lot of activity on the 20m band. We couldn't hear the local NCDXF beacon which was odd. Also no FT8 activity, also odd.

    If anything, it seemed like there was nothing happening at all.

    Before we continue, I'll point out that this can happen with a big enough burp from the Sun. I hadn't seen any alerts, so I wasn't buying it. We removed my coax, plugged in something much shorter and the bands came alive with all the activity we'd been expecting.

    And then it started to rain.

    Seriously. Finally got out into the world, got radio activity going, had actual signals to tune to and it starts raining. Glynn VK6PAW and I took one look at each other, shook our heads and dashed for the radio to bring it under shelter. I put on my raincoat, and together we disassembled the antenna and the station and went home.

    Clearly, my coax was faulty. Lesson learnt. Test your coax before you go out and you'll have a better outcome.

    About that.

    Today, a week later, I'm sitting on the floor of my shack with the offending coax between my legs, surrounded by adaptors, a NanoVNA, a RigExpert, a dummy load, a short and an open terminator. No matter how I test, no matter what I test, everything is as it should be. I can tell you that the Time Domain Reflectometry shows me that the coax is 25.8m long, useful information, but not really any surprise.

    There's also no significant return loss, unless you head for 1 GHz, but even then it's perfectly respectable, if anything, better than I expected.

    There are no loose connections, nothing rattling, nothing amiss.

    The only thing that I can even begin to think might be the case is that one of the centre pins on one end of the coax is slightly shorter. Combined with "close enough is good enough" when I attached the SMA adaptor in the field, might account for a connection that never got made, since the adaptor wasn't seated deep enough.

    So, I'm not quite ready to cut off the connectors and re-terminate this coax. I'll be taking it into the field again, but I'll make sure that I bring an alternative, just in case. I'm also leaving the SMA adaptors connected to the coax. Future me will thank me.

    Oh, yes, in-case you're wondering, I'm slowly working out how to improve my stamina. That was not fun. If you want to know more about Blue Trees and its message, check out the BlueTreeProject.com.au website and if you ever just want to talk, get in touch.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Checking attenuation numbers ... Sep 10, 2023
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Before we start I should give you fair warning. There are many moving parts in what I'm about to discuss and there's lots of numbers coming. Don't stress too much about the exact numbers. In essence, what I'm attempting is to explore how we can reduce the power output from a transmitter in such a way that it doesn't blow up a receiver whilst making sure that the signal is strong enough that we can actually measure it.

    With that in mind, recently I discussed the idea of adding a series of attenuators to a transmitter to reduce the power output by a known amount so you could connect it to a receiver and use that to measure output power at various frequencies. One hurdle to overcome is the need to handle enough power in order to stop magic smoke from escaping.

    None of my attenuators are capable of handling more than 1 or 2 Watts of power, so I cannot use any of them as the first in line. As it happens, a good friend of mine, Glynn VK6PAW, dropped off a device that allows you to divert most of the power into a dummy load and a small amount into an external connector. In effect creating an inline attenuator capable of handling 50 Watts.

    The label doesn't specify what the attenuation is, so I measured it using a NanoVNA. To make our job a little interesting, it isn't constant. Between 10 kHz and 1 GHz, the attenuation decreases from 70 dB to 10 dB. We want to measure at a base frequency on the 2m band and its second and third harmonic. The attenuation at those frequencies varies by 11 dB, which means we'll need to take that into account.

    So, let's subject our currently imaginary test set-up to some sanity checking. Our receiver is capable of reading sensible numbers between a signal strength of -127 dBm and -67 dBm and we'll need to adjust accordingly.

    If we transmit an actual 20 Watt carrier, that's 43 dBm. With 110 dB of attenuation, we end up at -67 dBm, which is right at the top end of what we think the receiver will handle. If we're using something like 5 Watts, or 37 dBm, we end up at -73 dBm, which is well above the minimum detectable signal. Our best harmonic measurement was around -30 dBm, which means that with 110 dB of attenuation, we end up at -140 dBm, which is 13 dB below what we think we can detect.

    So, at this point you might wonder if this is still worth our while, given that we're playing at the edges and to that I say: "Remind me again why you're here?"

    First we need to attenuate our 20 Watts down to something useful so we don't blow stuff up. Starting with 110 dB attenuation, we can measure our base carrier frequency and its harmonics and learn just how much actual power is coming out of the transmitter. Once we know that, we can adjust our attenuation to ensure that we end up at the maximum level for the receiver and see what we are left with.

    So, let's look at some actual numbers, mind you, we're just looking at calculated numbers, these aren't coming from an actual dongle, yet. Using Glynn's dummy load as the front-end, at 146.5 MHz, the attenuation is about 30 dB. If we look at a previously measured handheld and rounding the numbers, it produced 37 dBm. That's the maximum power coming into our set-up. With 30 dB of attenuation from Glynn's dummy load, that comes down to 7 dBm. We'll need an additional 74 dB of attenuation to bring that down to -67 dBm, in all we'll need 104 dB of attenuation.

    The third harmonic for that radio was measured at -26 dBm. So, with a 104 dB of attenuation that comes out at -130 dBm, which is below the minimum detectable signal supported by our receiver. However, remember that I told you that our dummy load had different attenuation for different frequencies? In our case, the attenuation at 439.5 MHz is only 19 dB, not 30, so in actual fact, we'd expect to see a reading of -119 dBm, which is above the minimum detectable signal level.

    I realise that's a lot of numbers to digest, and they're specific to this particular radio and dummy load, but they tell us that this is possible and that we're potentially going to be able to measure something meaningful using our receiver. I'll also point out that if you're going to do this, it would be a good idea to take notes and prepare what numbers you might expect to see because letting the magic smoke escape might not be one of your desired outcomes.

    Speaking of smoke, what happens if you consider changing the attenuation when you're measuring at another frequency, like say the second or third harmonic and you see a reading close to, or perhaps even below the detectable signal level as we've just discussed. You might be tempted to reduce the attenuation to increase the reading, but you need to remember that the transmitter is still actually transmitting at full power into your set-up, even if you're measuring elsewhere. This is why for some radios you'll see a measurement that states that the harmonics are below a certain value because the equipment used doesn't have enough range to provide an actual number.

    To simplify my life, using a NanoVNA, I created a spreadsheet with 101 data points for the attenuation levels of Glynn's dummy load between 10 kHz and 1 GHz. I charted it and with the help of the in-built trend-line function determined a formula that matched the data.

    I've also skipped over one aspect that needs mentioning and that's determining if the receiver you're using to do this is actually responding in the same way for every frequency. One way you might determine if that's the case is to look at what happens to the signal strength across multiple frequencies using a dummy load as the antenna. One tool, rtl_power might help in that regard.

    Is this going to give you the same quality readings as a professional piece of equipment? Well, do the test and tell me what you learn.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


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