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    Health & Fitness

    Fork U with Dr. Terry Simpson

    Fork U(niversity)
    Not everything you put in your mouth is good for you.

    There’s a lot of medical information thrown around out there. How are you to know what information you can trust, and what’s just plain old quackery? You can’t rely on your own “google fu”. You can’t count on quality medical advice from Facebook. You need a doctor in your corner.

    On each episode of Your Doctor’s Orders, Dr. Terry Simpson will cut through the clutter and noise that always seems to follow the latest medical news. He has the unique perspective of a surgeon who has spent years doing molecular virology research and as a skeptic with academic credentials. He’ll help you develop the critical thinking skills so you can recognize evidence-based medicine, busting myths along the way.

    The most common medical myths are often disguised as seemingly harmless “food as medicine”. By offering their own brand of medicine via foods, These hucksters are trying to practice medicine without a license. And though they’ll claim “nutrition is not taught in medical schools”, it turns out that’s a myth too. In fact, there’s an entire medical subspecialty called Culinary Medicine, and Dr. Simpson is certified as a Culinary Medicine Specialist.

    Where today’s nutritional advice is the realm of hucksters, Dr. Simpson is taking it back to the realm of science.

    Advertise

    Copyright: © Copyright 2023 Terry Simpson

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    Latest Episodes:
    Fish Sauce and Roman Taste Nov 05, 2026
    Show notes

    Fish sauce. It sounds unappetizing, and if you open a bit and take a whiff, you might think the same thing.

    How to make it: take some small fish, all of it- head, intestines. Cover with salt and put it into a container. Let it sit there for months. Then collect the liquid. Some say this is a great culinary invention; some say this is proof that we will eat anything. But before you run away in protest - Worcestershire.

    Worcestershire - yes, I had to learn to pronounce it

    Lea and Perrins Worcestershire sauce is a mix of anchovies, vinegar, molasses, tamarind, garlic, onions, and some spices. The anchovies are mixed with salt for two years. The garlic and onions are mixed with vinegar for 18 months. Those are blended together, and you have the sauce you put on steak or add to a Bloody Mary.

    That is the same culinary principle behind Roman fish sauce. While Lea and Perrins started selling it in 1837, they are part of a longer history.

    Roman Times

    The Romans called their famous sauce garum. It wasn’t just one sauce; there were wide varieties. They put garum on every dish you can think of. Vegetables? Add garum. Made some nice lamb? More garum. Oh, look at this fish; it needs fish sauce.

    When the Romans ruled Britain, they built massive trade routes for garum. I mean, Britain had a lot of fish. We don’t know any particular recipe for garum. But the British palate retained a cultural love for salty, fermented fish condiments.

    So why did the Romans love this sauce? Umami and salt. Two great combinations, one great sauce. Well, some of the sauces are great; some are, well, fishy.

    The Greeks Had It Before the Romans

    Most of Rome was plagiarized from the Greeks. Not just the marble, but the food.

    The Greeks appreciated salted and fermented fish products centuries before a wolf nursed the Roman Empire. Greeks called it garos.

    The Romans were good at taking someone else’s idea, making it their own, producing enormous quantities of it, and distributing it across their empire. Think roads, aqueducts, architectural ideas, and food. And fish sauce tickled their palates.

    Fish were abundant along the Mediterranean coast, and to preserve the fish, they used salt.

    The Fish Sauce Millionaire of Pompeii

    When Mount Vesuvius erupted in AD 79, it buried Pompeii beneath volcanic material. But it preserved a record of Roman life. From their version of fast food to brothels.

    Among the people whose lives we can reconstruct from the evidence is a businessman named Aulus Umbricius Scaurus. Scaurus made his fortune selling fish sauce.

    He was not a humble fisherman selling a few jars at the local market. Scaurus’ name has been found on containers, distributed throughout greater Pompeii.

    In the atrium of his home, mosaics depicted containers of fish sauce, complete with labels advertising the quality of his products. In the atrium of his home (Casa di Umbricius Scaurus), a black-and-white mosaic floor featured his branding. At each corner of the central pool (impluvium), a mosaic depicts a single fish-sauce jug (urceus) inscribed with promotional copy praising his premium products.

    And Romans loved their fish sauce.

    A Brief Detour

    I was in Jerusalem in the late 1990’s. The food scene in Jerusalem was either great Arab street food or Israeli food, leaving nothing interesting. So when I heard about a restaurant that served Roman food, the kind served 2000 years ago, I was intrigued. No tomatoes; those were not introduced until a few hundred years ago from the Americas. But what they featured was fish sauce. Lots of fish sauce.

    This was not Worcestershire. But it was on everything. If you submitted to the Roman Empire, they would not make you eat your food with garum. If you resisted and they had to expend efforts to conquer you, they would salt your land like their fish (Carthage) and force you to drink garum. This is why they conquered the world. Death or garum - sounds like an old joke.

    What Happens When Fish Becomes Sauce?

    When fish are salted, the enzymes naturally present in the fish, along with some microorganisms, help break fish proteins into smaller peptides and free amino acids. The process is called proteolysis. No, these peptides are not for injection.

    One of the important compounds released is glutamate, an amino acid, responsible for the taste called umami. Umami is savory, or meaty. Think Parmesan cheese, mushrooms, ripe tomatoes, and even Doritos.

    Fish sauce contains a lot of glutamate. And if you ever have used a spice called Accent (or Ac’cent) you are getting the pure form of MSG. Which is the sodium salt of the amino acid.

    Of course, food scientists examining Vietnamese fish sauce have identified the compounds responsible for its flavor.

    But there is more to fish sauce than glutamate.

    But Wasn’t This Just Rotten Fish?

    When fish are left to rot, undesirable microorganisms multiply. But add salt, and you create an environment in which many bacteria can no longer grow.

    That does not mean every ancient batch was safe. Even today, we can have spoilage under what we think are ideal conditions. Poorly controlled fish fermentation presents risks.

    The Romans, and Greeks before them, probably with trial and error, found the secret sauce. Less the flavor and more the manner to use salt, time, and to create a valuable seasoning.

    Garum Was Not Just One Sauce

    Garum is generic for Roman fish sauce. Much like ketchup is generic for lots of different tomato sauces.

    Some sauces were made with different fish, parts of the fish, and various production techniques.

    And, of course, there were grades of quality. There were ordinary sauces for everyday meals and expensive products to impress dinner guests. One preparation even blended fish sauce with wine.

    Roman Medicine: When a Condiment Became a Cure

    Pliny the Elder described medicinal uses for garum. Like food, he used it for everything from digestive complaints and dog bites to earaches. Ancient medicine frequently blurred the line between food and medicine.

    Pliny also believed plenty of things that would make me wince. And as many people want to look back for ancient cures, we don’t put fermented fish sauce into an ear because somebody recommended it two thousand years ago.

    Today, claims are accompanied by beautiful websites, supplement subscriptions, and someone assuring you that doctors don’t want you to know the secret. Worcestershire might be good for a steak, but if you have a dog bite, see the doctor and take your antibiotics.

    Fish sauce can be high in sodium; even a small amount may add tremendous flavor. Bea MacMillan learned that on the cooking show, where he added both fish sauce and soy sauce to a dish, it was so salty that Simon Majumdar, one of the judges, almost spit it out. Simon and I have visited Beau at his restaurant, Elements in Paradise Valley, AZ. He doesn’t use fish sauce; his food is excellent, and he has forgiven Simon for eliminating him.

    Monosodium glutamate, contrary to some, is not a toxin. It is a normal amino acid found throughout your body.

    The Romans Were Not Alone

    We don’t know who started fermenting fish and putting it on food, but it is everywhere.

    In Southeast Asia, fish sauce is an essential ingredient in cuisine. Vietnam, Thailand, and the Philippines each have their own histories, traditions, flavors, and techniques.

    Travel throughout the ancient world brought the process and flavors everywhere. We don’t know where it started. We know Greeks, then Romans, embraced the process along the Mediterranean. Asian cooks developed their own fish-sauce traditions, which remain central to many of the world’s great cuisines.

    And Then the English Got Involved

    Worcestershire sauce probably isn’t Roman garum rebottled.

    The story is an Englishman returning from India who missed his sauce on his food. He went to Lea and Perrin’s shop and asked if they could reproduce it. They put together the ingredients and let it simmer. They tasted it, and banished the barrel to their basement. Two years later, they cleaned out the basement, and before tossing out the barrel, they tasted it. Bingo, the fermentation mellowed the flavors, and we have a sauce

    Worcestershire on a steak magnifies the flavors present. Too much can mask the flavor. I use Worcestershire sauce as a basis for a steak sauce. It is a simple sauce to make. No fermenting fish in salt.

    Two Thousand Years Later, We Are Still Learning to Taste

    Sometimes we imagine the history of food as a progression to sophisticated modern cuisine. But the story of fish sauce suggests man has been manipulating tastes for a long time.

    Ancient cooks discovered that salt could preserve food. That if you preserved fish in salt, time would transform the ingredients. Sometimes they got lucky, and that liquid added amazing flavor.

    Today, people like me love to explain the chemistry of food, how it interacts with the tongue, and its effects on the body. But knowing that chemistry doesn’t mean I can create a great dish. I can explain why you like it.

    Food can be a small enterprise with a restaurant, or a major industry. Scaurus became wealthy enough to advertise his fish sauce on the mosaic floors of his own home.

    All because Roman cooks developed recipes using it with wine, oil, vinegar, herbs, and spices. Physicians even attempted to turn it into medicine: let thy food be thy medicine. Often it was a delicious remedy that didn’t cure. But a simple concept to understand.

    When you put fish sauce into a dish or shake Worcestershire sauce over a steak, you participate in an ancient culinary tradition. Knowing about glutamate receptors doesn’t make it taste better.

    Let your taste go roaming.


    How Breadfruit, Coconuts, and Ancient Polynesian Navigators Conquered the World's Largest Ocean Oct 29, 2026
    Show notes

    What Would You Pack to Build a Civilization?

    We have talked about empires before, from the ancient ones to the British, but nothing prepares you for the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. This was Polynesia, and we are looking at how people built a civilization and what they packed for it.

    Someone, somewhere on one of those islands, decided to take a canoe out and explore. Finding another island, or two, or three. Later, someone said,

    “Hey, our island is getting crowded; we need to make a new colony somewhere else."

    You may have heard ancient stories about “an island” passed on as stories are. Perhaps someone was there before and returned with stories of another island that could be the future home. Complete with freshwater and fresh tropical drinks like a daiquiri.

    Looking at those distances, even by today's standards, all I can think about is a long flight across the Pacific. The seats are uncomfortable, and the food isn’t particularly good. I’d hope for an upgrade that might give a little more legroom, and perhaps a meal that doesn’t come wrapped in plastic. Of course, I would hope the Wi-Fi works. Because someone on X is wrong.

    The ancient Polynesians crossed this same ocean in canoes. Navigation before GPS (seriously, no Google Maps). Probably larger seats, and their Wi-Fi was the stars, the currents, and finding seabirds meant land and home.

    Over centuries, voyagers reached those islands and settled them.

    It is hard to imagine how extraordinary this is. My Western mind is blown to think that this is before Europeans crossed the pond.

    The Polynesians didn’t just carry provisions for the voyage. They transported what they needed to settle an island. And the food was the constant.

    They were bringing the means to make those places habitable. And that makes me think of another enormous frontier that humans are only beginning to explore. Space. The final frontier (where is Captain Kirk).

    Their Pacific, Our Universe

    “Space, the final frontier,” I was about ten when that TV show came out, and it was one of my favorites. “Boldly going where no man had gone before.”

    For us to go to space, we either need to be a billionaire or a government. But for the people of the Pacific, they needed a few friends to build a boat. We have to have thousands of pounds of rocket fuel, lots of thrust just to escape Earth’s gravity and get into orbit. They needed a push from the beach, and they were on the ocean in their vessel.

    Now comes the important question. What do we eat when we get there? This is a question NASA is still trying to answer. If you read The Martian, potatoes were the answer, and some of that came from the folks who used them.

    Right now, the International Space Station receives regular deliveries of food from Earth; it was the first Instacart. I’ve had the pleasure of trying some of this food, and I must say I prefer it to American Airlines' fare.

    If you are in a canoe, you can bring food along for a journey. If you inhabit a new island, you need to bring the plants to grow, the pigs, and whatever else to establish a colony. Same with Mars. On Star Trek, they had a machine that looked like a fancy vending machine, turn a button, and out came clam chowder. They avoided the messy background of how this got assembled, was it pre-made, or magically put together and transported like the transporter room that Bones McCoy hated to get in.

    NASA has already experimented with growing lettuce, peppers, and other plants in space, using relatively little water and without conventional soil. Biosphere was an experiment done in the desert to see how people did in a version of space, just as barren, but still a windshield away from the real Earth. In that and many other experiments, NASA, as well as many of Earth’s engineers and farmers, work with plants to see what might work. Our friends in Polynesia had done those same experiments.

    They didn’t have to create life-support systems on an uninhabitable planet. They were moving familiar food-producing organisms into unfamiliar environments.

    You could eat a coconut and plant one. The time to plant a tree is 100 years ago; the next best time is now. Same with a yam and breadfruit. Bring some to eat, some to plant.

    We think of space, and we don’t rely on just NASA. Biosphere was privately funded like SpaceX. In fact, I am writing this with help from those satellites now. We have lots of private financing, not specifically looking to go to space, but consider this: we are making artificial meat in a lab. Why? Some want the taste without the cow. Bringing a cow to Mars might make a carnivore happy, but it isn’t practical. We have water engineers saving water and trying to grow crops in the most inhospitable places on earth. They aren’t thinking of Mars or beyond; they are thinking of feeding a hungry planet.

    Each of our ingredients, breadfruit, yams, and coconuts, was not part of a grand experiment to find a new island. But something that had worked for centuries, feeding a people, and some learned to grow them to make it easier. Like all of our civilizations. They learn to grow something, then they can grow it elsewhere, and civilization spreads.

    Breadfruit: What Do You Do With It?

    Breadfruit, it isn’t bread, and it doesn’t look like the fruit most of us know. It is a bumpy green ball about the size of a grapefruit. Cut it open, and you’ll find pale, starchy flesh.

    Roast breadfruit, and the aroma and texture are a bit like freshly baked bread. I think that is more imagination than I have; perhaps it was so long at sea. To me, it is more like a roasted potato than a loaf of sourdough.

    In our series, we have seen that early farmers take a wild plant and learn how to grow it for the village. They plant some wheat in the spring and harvest it in the fall. But every year it needs to be planted again. The soil for wheat or rice was often rich soil with water nearby.

    The soil on most islands is not great for growing rice or wheat. It is often volcanic, or sandy, or a mix. But these Breadfruit trees can be planted in volcanic soil, or even sandy soil, and in five to seven years, the tree is producing fruit. It thrives on that volcanic soil with good drainage and lots of rain that the South Pacific has.

    Chopped is one of the Food Network's game shows where chefs are given a surprise basket of ingredients to make a meal in a short period of time. On occasion, breadfruit shows up. If the breadfruit is firm, it is mature and mostly starch, like a potato. Something you can cut, deep fry, mash, or boil and add some olive oil to (the Polynesians didn’t have olive oil, or even Popeye).

    If the breadfruit is fully ripe, the flesh is. soft, creamy, sweeter, and almost custard-like. This would be a custard, or maybe throw it in the ice-cream machine. The ice cream machine on Chopped is a trap; it almost always goes on the brink, like McDonald’s.

    But that mature breadfruit tree can produce hundreds of pounds of fruit during a season. And unlike an annual grain crop, a breadfruit tree can continue producing for decades. Just like wheat and rice provided a dependable source of carbohydrates, or the potato, the breadfruit was the source for these islanders.

    You could go to an island, plant some trees, come back later, and start to colonize it. You could start with a small number of people, and as the trees' harvest grew, as well as the harvest from the ocean, you could gradually sustain a larger population.

    Taro, Yams, and the South American–New Zealand Express

    Taro is one of those vegetables you might have seen in an Asian market. It looks like a hairy, unattractive potato. Cut it open, and there is a starchy interior, creamy white, sometimes flecked with purple.

    Taro is the foundation of poi. And since it seems every strip mall in California has some poi, you probably had one of the essential foods of Polynesia. Yes, poki and poi, coming to a mall near you.

    You cannot eat Taro raw because it contains calcium oxalate crystals (if your body makes these, they are called kidney stones). Those crystals will irritate your throat and esophagus.

    Yams were another useful crop. And before someone sends me an angry message from the sweet potato industry, a true yam is not a sweet potato. This is one of those facts you will see someone talk about at Thanksgiving. Yes, we know. And I am assured that the Polynesians did not have marshmallows.

    Some yams grow into enormous underground tubers. They can be stored for considerable periods, much like you can store potatoes, making them valuable when fresh food is scarce.

    A South American Passenger

    Sweet potatoes used by the Polynesians originated in the Americas. And that means that there was a trade route between those civilizations. In fact, the Polynesians were growing yams before Europeans reached the Pacific.

    The precise movements of people and plants, and the dates and routes involved, we can only guess. Who knows who reached whom first? The result of that trade was that the sweet potato became part of the food system of the Pacific, all the way to New Zealand.

    The South American–New Zealand Express. Enter the Māori

    The Polynesian ancestors , the Māori ,reached New Zealand around the late thirteenth century.

    New Zealand was much colder than the tropical islands. Breadfruit trees and coconuts didn’t grow well in New Zealand. But the sweet potato, called kūmara in Māori, did.

    They developed storage pits to preserve the harvest through colder seasons. Much like your root cellar.

    Coconuts: Food, Water, and a Hardware Store

    My first view of the coconut was a television program based on James Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific. Otherwise, coconut was something mom used to bake some food. Speaking of which, I make an amazing almond tort (click here).

    Maybe you saw the silly TikTok video where Paul Saladino brings coconuts through airport security to serve as his liquid. He says he doesn’t want the microplastics from the bottled water they sell after security, and I agree. But most of us bring a steel refillable water bottle, but Paul brings a sack of coconuts. Where does he have room for that, and how on earth do you open them? Not with a machete, good luck bringing that through security.

    The Polynesians, however, had a far more practical reason to carry coconuts. They serve as food, where the young coconut provides liquid and soft flesh. The older mature coconut provides more fat and calories — oh, that just hit me. Yes, we gain a bit of fat as we age.

    Coconuts have more uses than food. The shell makes a cup or clothing. The leaves can be woven into baskets and roofing. And the fibrous husk can be made into rope.

    And what did they use that rope for? Well, ask any man who has a garage, and we have rope. Men have collected ropes long before we had drawers full of cords that provided electricity to a used electronic device no longer made. But for the Polynesians, ropes are needed for canoes.

    Imagine crossing thousands of miles of ocean in a vessel whose wooden components are held together with rope made from coconuts. No Home Depot, but you had the makings of a rope. And when the tropical rains came, there was work to be done. No internet, so you had to do something, and they would sit under a shelter and braid coconut fibers into rope.

    Here in America, when it rains, we tend to stay inside and Netflix and chill. At my age, that means watching a movie and relaxing on the couch. I understand the younger generation has given that phrase an entirely different meaning. Ah, to be young again.

    But let’s not dwell on life after sixty.

    We look at coconuts and think of a tropical drink. They looked at coconuts and saw food, drink, building materials, and a hardware store. All growing on a tree, no hook in a garage or drawer.

    Pigs, Chickens, and the Noah’s Ark of the Pacific

    The islands the people went to were not small, little desert islands. There are plenty of those in the South Pacific. But those don’t have the water, soil, or area to be anything more than a camping site for young lovers. Think of the Hawaiian Islands, all large, able to support not only the breadfruit, taro, and coconuts. They are also large enough to have ranches for another source of food, as well as their hides, hooves, etc.

    But those islands didn’t come equipped with the plants or the animals to support a new colony. Those creatures, along with the plants, had to be brought.

    Polynesians were not vegetarians. There is plenty of evidence that they brought with them pigs, chickens, and maybe a few other creatures. In Alaska, among my people, the Athabascan, vegetarians are given another name: bad hunters.

    Polynesians also had pets. When we move, we take our pets. I have moved several times with my Golden Doodle, Lucky. The golden doodle goes through the same phases as humans. Until age five, they are a whackadoodle, endless energy. Then, Doodles, at the age of five, discovers they can lie down, and one day they transform from an energetic dog into the Great American Sloth. Dogs have been faithful companions for almost all of human existence. In fact, we probably evolved to simply serve the dog.

    Now, anyone who has traveled with a dog knows it requires food and water. You also have to share your sleeping quarters with them. And you have to clean up after them.

    For food, there were pigs and chickens. There may have been others, and probably were, but let us think about taking a canoe ride with some pigs and chickens. Imagine the larger, and sometimes cantankerous, pig. Or several pigs. Chickens would be easier; they take up less space. But they can still be a pain. I suppose they would have taken the smaller pigs on the boat and have the larger ones for the going-away party.

    Why go to all this trouble? Because one pig is dinner. A breeding pair of pigs could eventually mean pork for an entire village. Chickens reproduce a little faster than pigs. If you have ever been to the island of Kauai, chickens roam freely, and have been here for longer than Europeans. I see them running around and think of Coq au vin.

    The Pacific rat traveled with people across much of Polynesia. Some were probably deliberately transported as food, while others may have simply helped themselves to passage. Others went to New York, where they still dominate the city and are well served by the politicians.

    Every civilization started with a farm, something to grow that could sustain people, allow them to settle down, form villages, towns, governments, and, of course, taxes. Different parts of the world provided ingredients that fostered those civilizations.

    We went from hunter-gatherers to civilizations because food allowed us to do that. Civilization is more than just planting enough to get by. These are the lessons we have learned from our previous episodes of coffee, salt, tea, and spices.

    If you ever thought about Mars, think about the planning of the Polynesian people and what was done here on Earth. Take a look at the size of the water they had to cross. In our next section, what it might take to inhabit another planet.

    What Would You Pack to Colonize Mars?

    This is more than a thought experiment; it is an active area of research as we consider outposts in our solar system and beyond. Who wouldn’t want to snowboard on Uranus? But what do you bring, and how do you start that process? Well, I have a few ideas.


    Sugar: The Sweet Taste of an Empire Oct 22, 2026
    Show notes

    Think about the last time you put sugar in your coffee or tea, a teaspoon, maybe two. Perhaps you avoided it because someone on the internet told you sugar was poison.

    Sugar helped build the British Empire, financed fortunes on both sides of the Atlantic, and contributed to the enslavement of millions of Africans. It made tea palatable to the British, encouraged the development of an extraordinary global trading network, and eventually gave British dentists plenty of work.

    It was so valuable that Napoleon made the sugar beet famous, because he didn’t want to import from the UK. . Sugar interests helped bring down the Hawaiian monarchy. And long before the United States was worried about communism in Cuba, American businessmen were deeply interested in Cuban sugar.

    All of this from a plant that is essentially an overgrown tropical grass.

    A Grass Worth More Than Gold

    Sugarcane was first cultivated thousands of years ago in what is now New Guinea. It was brought through Southeast Asia and into India, where we converted the sweet juice into something we would recognize as sugar granules.

    Sugar was not the first sweet taste homo sapiens encountered. We had honey, ripe fruit, and sweet plant juices. Our attraction to sweetness signals a source of energy.

    India is where sugar extraction improved. From India, Arab traders brought sugar to the Middle East, North Africa, the Mediterranean, and Europe.

    The European wealthy household offered sugar as a sign of its importance. Ordinary people had little access to it. The pattern is something we’ve seen before with both spice and salt. It is fashionable first in the royal court. It becomes a trickle-down phenomenon as production drives prices down or improved trade routes come online.

    The Empire in a Teacup

    That cup of tea, so famous in Britain, was imported first from China, then from India. Likewise, the sugar came from the other side of the world, and even that cup, porcelain, from the East.

    But going to London, I do what millions of tourists do: I find a place for “high tea.” That is far from the traditional high tea. High tea was originally a working-class supper, featuring meat pies, not cucumber finger food. But still sitting in a fancy hotel, being served some Jing second flush Darjeeling tea, with sugar, seems so British.

    As an aside, what we are participating in is actually a version of “low tea.” Invented by a Duchess because dinner was served after 8 pm, she became hungry at around 4 pm.

    Plantation Life

    If you go to the Virgin Islands or anywhere there were sugar plantations, you will probably buy a straw hat, drink some rum drink, and find someplace to get away from the humidity. It is a sultry, pleasant vacation. While there, visit a plantation where sugar was harvested, and see how brutal conditions were.

    Similar to the slavery in the Southern states, sugar plantations were only good to the owners. The slaves toiled in dangerous conditions, where the cane had to be cut, crushed, boiled, and refined. The slave labor was needed due to the growing European taste for sugar.

    In the British-acquired colonies of Barbados and Jamaica, merchants made fortunes from sugar, while slaves’ lives were cut short by the horrific conditions. Industries spawned from sugar included shipping companies, insurers, and investors. Sugar taxes benefited Britain's treasury.

    We cannot forget Rum, even though a night of Rum might want you to forget. Rum comes from Molasses, a byproduct of sugar production, which was fermented and distilled.

    By the nineteenth century, the increased supply of sugar drove down its price to a level that the working class could afford. The sweetened tea, jam, biscuits, and other foods that would once have been considered luxuries became common.

    Increased sugar’s first health issue appeared first in the mouth. The British began losing their famous association with dentistry. Sugar helped build the British Empire. It also did wonders for the future of dentistry.

    Fossil records of early humans show that many died from tooth infections. The widespread use of sugar in the diet began to show up as a chronic disease, spawning yet another industry, dentistry. Other chronic diseases from sugar would follow.

    When Refusing Sugar Became a Moral Decision

    In 1791, a group of British abolitionists began organizing a boycott of sugar because of the brutal conditions in the British West Indies. This might have been one of the first consumer boycotts of note, because the year after organizing the boycott, an estimated 400,000 British consumers participated.

    Women couldn’t vote for members of Parliament, but they could influence what their households purchased. They encouraged people to buy East India sugar as an alternative to sugar produced by enslaved Africans in the West Indies.

    In museums, you can find sugar bowls bearing antislavery messages. Imagine that. Your sugar bowl tells visitors something about your moral convictions. Today we have bumper stickers.

    Sugar Beets

    Sugar beets are an alternative to cane sugar. To be clear, your body doesn’t care where the sugar comes from, corn cane, or a beet, but it became important to Napoleon.

    Imagine being at war with Britain, something France does as a pastime, and having to import sugar from the place you are at war with. Sounds like oil, doesn’t it?

    In 1801, sugar beets were harvested, and the first factory was established to extract sugar in Prussia. When Napoleon occupied Prussia in 1807, he noted the industry. In 1811, Napoleon promoted large-scale beet sugar cultivation in France to replace imported cane sugar.

    This also led to the proliferation of beet salads, something useful for composts and Californians. Okay, I live in California, but I find beets taste like dirt, and that is a hill I shall occupy.

    Lest We Lose Our Humility

    I enjoy making fun of the British, even though I love London. But we Americans have our own bad relationship with sugar on the political side. And certainly, our proliferation of hyper-processed foods would have been nothing without sugar. And while Britain has dentistry and tooth problems, we took to sugar with our own chronic diseases, obesity, and diabetes.

    Hawaii became a state not because we liberated the Native peoples, but because we wanted sugar cane. We overthrew a recognized government, not because we wanted a lei, but the sugar. That was our Marines backing up an industry like the East Indian Company, which had their own military.

    Now, while some blame sugar entirely for obesity, and have elaborate explanations of the carb-insulin hypothesis, I will have another article about this later this week, about sugar and what it does.

    Suffice it to say, the carb insulin hypothesis is a model that is simplistic and incorrect. And while I normally would attach a paid section to this, going through the chemistry and biochemistry of sugar, I will instead have an entire article for the paid members coming out this next week.


    How to Spice Things Up Oct 16, 2026
    Show notes

    With all the spices we have access to, it is amazing how bland recipes have become. I have many cookbooks, some from great chefs, television personalities, and friends. What I am always surprised by is how bland the food has become.

    People seem to think a bit of salt, pepper, maybe onions, and garlic provide the spices one needs. Perhaps it is because some associate spice with heat. Mostly because many have never experimented with some of those great warm spices available. A pinch of coriander, some freshly ground cumin, a little cardamom, or a touch of cinnamon can turn an ordinary dish into something remarkable. And the most astonishing part is that these spices financed voyages around the world, built cities, created fortunes, and caused people to kill one another.

    Without the spice trade, it is safe to say that the United States, as we know it, would be vastly different from what it is now. The money loaned to the United States, when we were a fledgling country, came from the wealthy spice merchants from what was considered one of the great hyperempires of the world, based in Amsterdam.

    But before we go to the birth of the United States, let me take you to the meatball.

    Today’s Meatball is a bit boring

    When I went to the States for college, the meatballs in the continental US were boring. Many are just combinations of beef and pork, and often the meat is overcooked, leaving the meatball dry, although that is often hidden in the sauce (tomato sauce if you are making spaghetti, or a gravy sauce for others). One recipe had frozen meatballs from the grocery store placed into a crock pot with a vat of grape jelly (it wasn’t bad, it was ghastly).

    Most meatballs are like having only the meat from a burger without the crunch and sourness of the pickle, the sweetness of the tomato, and that touch of bitterness from the onion. I didn’t understand why my grandmother’s and mom’s meatballs were so delicious, and these were so dull. Over time, I had received recipes from different people who made meatballs, and they were all versions of the same recipe until history showed me the ingredients I was missing.

    In Search of the Mighty Meatball

    While there may have been other reasons to visit Turkey, Norway, Italy, and Sweden, there was always Project Meatball. Finding a meatball that tasted like my mom’s. I can’t ask mom about this; her dementia didn’t let me crack that code, so I had to travel the world to find the secret to unlock the flavors in her meatballs.

    The Swedish Meatball’s Origins in Turkey

    If you go to Stockholm, consider taking a “food tour.” Not only will you learn about the history and culture of the country, but you will also eat well. Then, if looking for recommendations, they know the city and its food like no other. In this case, I wanted a meatball. The traditional meatball as served in Stockholm.

    But when talking to the food historians in Sweden, the meatball did not originate in Sweden. The meatball was brought to Sweden by King Charles XII in 1714. He was forced into exile in the Ottoman Empire (now Turkey) after losing a war to Russia in 1709. For five years, he was a guest of the Sultan, and besides trying to get the Ottoman Empire to go to war against Russia, he enjoyed the Ottoman cuisine. After five years, the Sultan became tired of Charles's scheming and tossed Charles out of Turkey.

    Charles returned to Sweden with two culinary items: the meatball and coffee.

    The Meatball in the Ottoman Empire

    Istanbul is the western world’s second most cosmopolitan city. This was the last city of the Roman Empire, until the Sultans conquered it in 1453, which began the Ottoman Empire. But today I was walking in The Spice Market. This market has been in business since 1664. You can imagine when Charles XII came here, and his nose was filled with aromas from around the world. Aromas he had never smelled before.

    Let's start counting world hyperpowers. The Ottoman Empire was one. It was built not just on military conquests, but on spices. The spice road, silk trail, ended here, and from here, money was made selling these goods to Europe.

    Food Charles had never eaten before. When I was there, the smell of the spices was so abundant and so fresh that my nose was overjoyed. Just outside the spice market, as everywhere, are people who will sell you lamb cooked simply over fire, and to that lamb is added lemon zest, salt, zaatar, as well as nutmeg.

    There was something comforting about the smell in the spice market. I didn’t realize my brain was remembering food aromas from home.

    Putting ground meat with spices isn’t an original idea. In the Roman Empire, the cookbook author Apicius (25BC–37AD) describes meats from chicken to fish being ground with spices added. Almost every culture has a variation of a meatball (ground meats roasted with some spices). Rome is our second major global power. Yes, we learned about the conquest of the world, but where did Rome make its money? Trade. It conquered not to force people into a religion or a political system, but to secure trade routes. What made a lot of Rome’s money? Spices and food.

    For the Ottoman Empire, the meats they used were lamb and poultry. No pork (they were Muslim and pork was forbidden). The flavor came from the variety of spices available to the Ottomans. The Ottomans, it turned out, had all the known spices of the Western World. The spices from Asia and Indochina were traded to Europe through the Silk Road, which began in modern-day Xi’an and ended in Istanbul.

    The Swedish Version

    Until the mid 1800’s, meatballs were mostly consumed by the wealthy in Sweden. Charles didn’t have meatballs as a meal, but would eat them as a snack with coffee (coffee being the other Turkish product he introduced to Sweden). Meatballs were first mentioned in Cajsa Warg’s 1754 Swedish cookbook. She described meatballs as chopped meat (calf, sheep, or ox) with grated bread and eggs. The seasonings were pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Nutmeg, for a time, was worth more per weight than gold.

    By the 1850s, the meatball had become a common food for the Swedes. Much like fashion trends are set by the famous today, the meatball was the fashionable food and became a beloved dish of Sweden.

    But let us get back to spices and the world.

    A Night in Amsterdam

    Many years ago, I stayed in the Waldorf Astoria, Amsterdam. The hotel is made up of six canal houses, once owned by some of the city’s wealthy residents.

    In the seventeenth century, Amsterdam was the center of one of the great commercial empires in history. That empire was based on spices

    Tea and pepper were the commodities that allowed Britain to become an empire. Notice a pattern here. Trade, often involving spices, but stable trade, which was backed by a navy. A different group of spices for Amsterdam: Nutmeg, Cloves, Cinnamon, and Pepper. Amsterdam became one of the wealthiest cities in the world from the spice trade. In fact, so wealthy that it is considered one of the great hyperempires of the world. Along with the Roman Empire, the British Empire, and the United States.

    Most look at Amsterdam during this period and have called it a global power, and this would be our third global power.

    A Young Republic

    If you are in Amsterdam, you can find the house where John Adams lived. As ambassador, Adams secured loans to our fledgling republic, helping keep it afloat when the US was nearly bankrupt. All because the world loved the taste of nutmeg.

    Amsterdam wasn’t the First

    Spices were a way to display wealth and status. If you wanted to impress your guests, you served them a meal filled with spices.

    One of the first spices traded was pepper. Pepper was valuable because it was small, durable, easy to transport, and in tremendous demand. In medieval London, a pound of pepper could cost the equivalent of a week’s wages for an ordinary laborer.

    The Price of Nutmeg

    The Banda Islands, now part of Indonesia, were once the world’s source of nutmeg and mace. The islanders traded these spices with Asian merchants for centuries before Europeans arrived.

    In 1621, Dutch forces under Jan Pieterszoon Coen conquered the Banda Islands. Much of the indigenous population was killed, expelled, or enslaved, and the islands were reorganized around spice production for corporate profit.

    New York City is sometimes referred to as New Amsterdam, because Amsterdam laid claim to the Big Apple. Britain gained New York in exchange for a small spice island, Run. The exchange was one of those moments when the spice trade and New York intersect.

    Today, you can buy spices for a fraction of what they were. And yet, most of those spices are underused in kitchens.

    Many of those spices have medicinal properties: turmeric is anti-inflammatory, cinnamon helps regulate blood sugar, and pepper improves the bioavailability of many compounds. Adding spices to your cooking not only improves flavor, but also your health.

    But without spices, many global powers would never have been. Rome, the Ottomans, Britain, Amsterdam, and the United States might never have been. There may never have been a reason to cross oceans, develop corporations like The Hudson Bay, or Dutch East India. The United States is now a major power. Spices are cheap, and the seas are defended to allow them to move freely. That is why we are mighty - it is the mighty spice

    So don’t let the great explorers of the past lives be for naught - add some spice to your cooking.

    Coming Home Through Food

    They say you travel the world to find paradise in your backyard. In this case, I had gone to four countries in Europe to find the meats and spices used to make the meatball in my grandmother’s cookbook. But we have to add a twist — we have more spices available, so here is my version of the meatball. Made, tested, and even JJ approved.


    Tea: The Drink That Built an Empire—and Helped Break One Oct 08, 2026
    Show notes

    Tea: The Drink That Built an Empire—and Helped Break One

    China had the tea. Britain had the appetite. John Hancock had a business to protect.

    British TV - No disaster can happen before a cuppa

    Watch almost any British television series, and tea appears whenever you enter someone’s home or office. Tea, apparently, is not only a beverage but also a medication for both mental and physical issues.

    Oh, turns out someone has died? Put the kettle on. Yes, at some point, gin or whisky will be involved, but there is always tea. Were you shot at? Tea. Your spouse has left you? Tea. Need to discuss a murder? Tea.

    I have been watching Slow Horses, one of the great detective series about MI5. From this, I have learned that British intelligence can tolerate treason, Russian assassins, and Gary Oldman’s personal hygiene, as long as there is tea.

    It does not matter the hour, morning, afternoon, or evening. And I am always shocked that nobody ever looks at the clock and says, “Perhaps this caffeine will interfere with my sleep.” No. Kettle on. Could be 2 am, and you just showed up to tell them bad news, are hiding from a shooter, or you broke up with your significant other - tea it is.

    It is not like Americans, who offer coffee to everyone, but close. Tea is offered regardless of time, circumstances, or whether you even like the person. I am convinced that if you do not offer tea to a Brit, you will be breaking a royal command.

    Civilizations and Tea

    In this series about foods that built civilizations, we have covered foods from wheat to salmon, allowing civilizations to settle and develop.

    Tea is different. Nobody survived a winter because they had enough tea. But tea, like coffee, helped build civilizations, providing a gathering spot. But the love of tea allowed for two wars, espionage, and ritual.

    The Chinese Had Tea First

    The legend is that the Chinese Emperor Shen Nong discovered tea when some leaves blew into his hot water almost 5,000 years ago.

    By the eighth century, during the Tang dynasty, Lu Yu had written The Classic of Tea, an entire book about cultivating, preparing, and drinking tea.

    Black and Green Tea

    I’ve always thought green tea tasted like pond water. And despite the many health benefits of green tea, it never appealed to me. Black tea is my preference, and it amazes me that black and green tea come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis.

    Green tealeaves are heated quickly by steaming or pan-firing right after harvesting to stop oxidation. This keeps the leaves green. Black tea leaves are withered, rolled, and left to fully oxidize in the air, which turns them dark brown or black. Same plant. Different processing.

    Then the British Discovered Tea

    When tea first arrived in Britain in the 17th century, it was a luxury item, as all new imports are. Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese wife of Charles II, helped make tea fashionable at the royal court.

    Expensive and exotic, the sort of imported luxury you drank because other people couldn’t afford it.

    The tea moved from court to wealthy households and eventually into ordinary homes. Taxes on tea were high, which had the predictable effect of creating a thriving smuggling business.

    By the eighteenth century, Britain was buying enormous amounts of tea from China. This left a large trade imbalance. China was not importing many British goods, so the Brits had to pay in silver. Silver went east. Tea went west. This was an excellent arrangement if you were China. The British were less enthusiastic. Then they discovered that China would import opium.

    Things Get Ugly

    The East India Company discovered an appetite for opium. Despite China's wanting to stop the drug, opium provided a tidy profit for the East India Company. Drug wars have had a similar problem. Opium also solved the trade deficit.

    When China responded by restricting opium, and when you limit the profit of a Brit, you have war. The so-called opium wars began in 1839.

    Britain did not go to war because somebody was late delivering Earl Grey. There was more to the wars than a tea trade deficit. But tea was at the center of the trade imbalance. History is almost never as simple as the sentence we remember from school.

    While the Brits were successful in the opium wars, war is costly, even when you win. Ongoing war takes a bite out of profit.

    So a fine idea developed. Instead of buying all this tea from China, they might grow it somewhere they already control. Like India.

    India Already Had Tea

    This is one of those parts of history that becomes more interesting when you stop telling it entirely from the British perspective.

    Tea was already growing in Assam. Indigenous people, including the Singhpho, grew the tea, but it was not to the British taste. Brits preferred the taste of the Chinese varietals. The Chinese had a different method to cultivate and process tea. But they were not forthcoming in offering their knowledge or plants to the Brits. War can make people a bit selfish.

    So the East India Company decided to steal the plants and knowledge

    And for that, the East India Company hired Scotsman, Robert Fortune.

    The Original Tea Thief

    Between 1843 and 1861, the East India Company sent Robert Fortune on multiple trips to China. His mission was to obtain tea plants, seeds, and knowledge, and bring them to India. Then develop an Indian tea industry, solving the trade imbalance.

    Fortune traveled into areas closed to foreigners, sometimes wearing Chinese clothing and adopting a Chinese appearance. Since he did not speak Chinese, his companions would tell people that he came from across the Great Wall.

    He visited tea-growing districts, collected plants and seeds, and learned how the Chinese processed tea. He also helped settle the European misconception that green tea and black tea came from entirely different species.

    Over those years, he brought 20,000 plants out of China. After trial and error, Fortune discovered tea grew best in the province of Darjeeling. Located in West Bengal, this high-altitude region became the perfect home for the tea Fortune smuggled out of China. The steep terrain and cool mists were the perfect environment. Much like Paso Robles is a perfect environment for some wines. Fortune birthed the famous, highly prized “Darjeeling tea” industry.

    While a native wild tea variety (Camellia sinensis var. assamica) had been discovered in Assam, India, Fortune brought expert Chinese tea masters and workers to the Assam plantations. These workers taught the locals how to properly ferment, roll, and dry the leaves. The Assam district now made tea to the liking of the Brits.

    My Tea

    One of my two current teas is a Darjeeling second flush from JING. Second flush is picked later than the delicate first flush and produces a fuller tea with the flavor that tea people describe as muscatel. I'm not going to hold the cup under my nose and tell you that I'm getting notes of Himalayan stone fruit, leather, and a summer rain falling on the eastern slope of a mountain. When I was in London, I tried various teas. One morning, this one appeared during breakfast at the Langram. It has become a favorite.

    Somehow, I also imported a small stockpile of the tea in that brief period, when Prime Minister Keir Starmer and Donald Trump seemed to have no tariffs between them. I think it lasted about twenty minutes.

    Tregothnan

    The place is called Tregothnan, an estate in Cornwall where the local microclimate is just warm and humid enough for Camellia sinensis. They planted their first tea bushes in 1999 and began selling English-grown tea in 2005.

    Naturally, I purchased some.

    But the irony is that now tea can be grown in the UK. While the estate in Cornwall produces about 10 to 15 tons per year. Consider London drinks about 13,000 tons per year.

    Still, going to war with China over tea. Hiring a spy to bring it to India, and all that effort, and they could have grown tea in their backyard.

    Boston Tea Party

    You remember the story from grade school, the cry of “Taxation without representation.” Brave colonists standing up against the British Empire.

    On December 16, 1773, men, disguised as Native Americans, dumped 342 chests of East India Company tea into Boston Harbor.

    That isn’t the whole story. Because the Tea Act threatened the people selling tea in America. One of the men was a wealthy Boston merchant, John Hancock.

    We remember the liberty. We don’t talk nearly as much about the profit margins. And that is where the tea gets really interesting.


    Chocolate: From the Food of the Gods to the Candy Aisle Oct 01, 2026
    Show notes

    MesoAmerica and Chocolate

    In our series looking at foods that built civilizations, today we are going to stay in the Americas with chocolate.

    Chocolate has been used as currency, consumed by kings, incorporated into religious ceremonies, and prescribed as medicine. Today, it is a multibillion-dollar industry that wants you to believe that eating chocolate is an act of preventive cardiology.

    I mean, why not? They convinced us to give chocolate to people we love, eat it when we are happy, when we are sad, when only the dog understands us. Don’t feed chocolate to your dog.

    And we have done all this with a bitter seed that most of us would probably spit out if we tasted it straight from the tree.

    Ancient Harvest and Production of Cacao

    Archaeological evidence from Ecuador indicates people used cacao about 5,300 years ago.

    Football-shaped pods were cut from large branches of the Theobroma cacao tree. The pods are sliced open and have 30 to 40 seeds encased in a sweet, sticky white pulp. The seeds and pulp were scooped out and placed into piles or baskets covered in banana leaves to ferment for 3 to 7 days. During fermentation, yeasts broke down the pulp, killed the seed germ, and began developing the chocolate flavor.

    After fermentation, the beans were spread on mats and left in the sun for about a week. Workers periodically turned them until they were dry and brown. At this point, the beans were shelf-stable, light, and portable. They were bagged and used as currency across Mesoamerica. Imagine growing your currency.

    To make the cacao drink, the beans were toasted on a griddle over an open fire, which loosened the papery outer husks. They then crushed the shells and blew away the husk, revealing the inner cacao nibs.

    These were then ground, like maize, by rubbing a stone rolling pin back and forth over the nibs. The friction and a small controlled fire under the stone would melt the natural cacao butter. As a result, the solid nibs transformed into a rich, glossy, flowing chocolate paste.

    They mixed this pure cacao paste with water, cornmeal (to thicken it), spicy chili peppers, wild vanilla, allspice, and fragrant flowers.

    To serve it, they would pour the liquid from jars into bowls until a thick froth formed on top. That was considered the most prized part of the sacred drink.

    The Maya used cacao in ceremonies, the Aztecs collected cacao as tribute, and the beans were used as currency. Just like we used to use the Hershey’s bar as currency on the playground. Imagine using chocolate to pay taxes. That chocolate would be as bitter as taxes are today.

    Europe Meets Chocolate

    The first time Cortez drank cacao, they hated it, describing it as a drink fit for swine. But then they began to experiment with the recipe by removing the chili peppers and cornmeal and adding lots of cane sugar. Do we know what Cortez said exactly? Not really, although I think of him as one of the nastier characters on The Princess Bride.

    Then they added cinnamon, vanilla, and anise, instead of using the local herbs. And they served it hot, instead of cold.

    The Spanish court kept this sweetened "hot chocolate" recipe a state secret for nearly 100 years. By the 1600s, the recipe leaked to the royal courts of France, Italy, and England, becoming the ultimate luxury status symbol for the European elite, and Starbucks fans everywhere. It is a good story, and some even think it is true.

    The difference between cacao and cocoa is sometimes described as the difference between the original cold Aztec drink and the modern Spanish one. But it was probably a misspelling by the English traders on ship manifests. But if you want to sound cool, you use cacao.

    Mother’s Day, 1990

    It was Sunday, Mother’s Day, and I was a surgical resident on the vascular service. I was thinking about driving down to Portland to visit my mom when I received a call from Dr. Raker.

    There was a patient who needed vascular surgery to save his leg. There went my Mother’s Day plans. Over the course of the next six hours, we operated, bypassed the aneurysm, and saved Charlie’s See’s leg.

    Charlie had tasted more chocolate than probably anyone alive, and he didn’t like most American chocolate. Some Belgian chocolate, maybe.

    He told me about the Guna people of Panama, who drank six cups of chocolate a day. And they didn’t have heart disease. He had tried, but didn’t like that drink. His expressed regret was that if he had consumed more chocolate, maybe he wouldn’t have needed vascular surgery. That is unlikely, but let's find out why the people in that area of Panama have lower blood pressure.

    Chocolate Flavonols

    The bioactive ingredient in chocolates is flavanols. These have several effects: they reduce blood pressure directly through nitric oxide, they have a mild anti-clotting effect, and they are anti-inflammatory.

    Nitric oxide causes the muscles in blood vessel walls to relax. When those muscles relax, your blood pressure goes down. The lower your blood pressure is, the less strain on your heart, the less risk of developing atherosclerosis, and the longer a person lives. Of course, we don’t want it too low.

    All that from drinking chocolate. But not so fast. We often have mechanisms in biology that do not translate to eating chocolate and decrease your risk of heart attacks and strokes. But what a sweet experiment to try, so they did.

    Cocoa Supplement and Multivitamin Outcomes Study, aka COSMOS.

    COSMOS followed 21,000 Americans for over 3.5 years to see if the cocoa flavonols decreased the risk of heart attacks and strokes. Subjects were fed either a placebo or 500 mg of flavonols daily.

    They found that the group who took flavonols had a 27% lower risk of death from heart disease, and about a ten percent lower risk of all cardiovascular disease.

    Perhaps had they had the content of the bean, as in a chocolate bar, or even received the drink that the Kana (Guna) people drank, it might have had a different result.

    Is it Dessert or a Health Food

    One way to describe nutritional information is that there are those who are splitters - finding the ingredient in the food that causes the reaction and focusing on that. And there are lumpers, who put the food together in a matrix and see what that matrix does that a single ingredient might not.

    We know that eating blueberries, seeds, nuts, other fruits, and vegetables provides improved health outcomes across all studies that have examined these. That is the backbone of the Mediterranean diet. Building a diet around those healthy foods.

    Chocolate has not been on the list for the Mediterranean diet. Again, just because chocolate originated in Mesoamerica does not mean it cannot be a part of a Mediterranean diet.

    However, you can make chocolate an important part of the Mediterranean diet without it being dessert. I will have a few of my favorite recipes below, like adding them to my son’s favorite “taco” soup.

    When you get a chocolate bar that is 70 percent or more “dark” chocolate, that does not translate into the amount of active flavonols in the chocolate. How the chocolate is processed will determine the amount of flavanols in the chocolate, not the percentage of dark chocolate. So if you enjoy chocolate as a dessert, enjoy it. Don’t fool yourself into thinking it is a health food.

    But you can add a healthy dose of chocolate to beans, stews, and sauces, and add a richness to a dish that is perfectly healthy. This is much like the mole sauces of Mexico, rich, but with more of an Italian-Sardinian twist.

    As for our people from Panama, they still drink the bitter cocoa. When they move from their village to the city, they drink less and tend to develop the same diseases as the city folk: high blood pressure, heart disease, and stroke. I might add this confounding variable: while in their village, they eat more fish, almost no ultra-processed food, and their diets are filled with other fruits and vegetables (kind of like a good Mediterranean diet - or if you want to rename it to the DASH or MesoAmerican diet, you can).


    Fear Not the Potato. Fear the Person Who Fears the Potato. Sep 24, 2026
    Show notes

    I’ve been doing a series about foods that built civilizations. In this episode, we are talking about the potato.

    It is difficult to imagine that thousands of years ago, people constructed large buildings, managed rivers, built monuments, and created art. We have glimpses of these civilizations through stories, archaeology, and the structures they left behind, but much of their history has been lost. Imagine, we don’t even know where Cleopatra or Alexander the Great are buried, yet we know their stories.

    As European powers conquered Indigenous peoples, their languages, cultures, and oral traditions were suppressed. When a language disappears, so are the stories preserved within it. Our clues come from archaeology when we uncover a monument, a building, or an ancient settlement.

    In the Andes, the potatoes they cultivated were not the Russets, Yukon Golds, or fingerlings you find in the store today. Different colors, shapes, and textures. Adapted to survive the elevations, temperatures, and growing conditions.

    Biodiversity protected their food supply against frost, disease, and changing environmental conditions. If one variety failed, another might survive. The ancient wisdom of diversity that Andean farmers developed over thousands of years was lost when the potato eventually reached Ireland.

    Preserving Potatoes

    They even developed a method to freeze-dry the crop. They exposed the potatoes to repeated cycles of freezing and thawing. Then they pressed them and allowed them to dry. The result was called chuño.

    The freeze-dried potatoes could be stored for years. When rehydrated, they were used in soups and stews.

    I wonder if they ever thought about freeze-drying the coffee berry. Perhaps there was an ancient people called the Sanka.

    Tiwanaku: Farming at the top of the world

    The civilization flourished for centuries before it declined around the end of the first millennium CE. Near Lake Titicaca, in what is now Bolivia, the Tiwanaku civilization developed an agricultural system that allowed people to grow food in one of the most challenging environments on Earth. This pre-Inca civilization had monumental stone buildings, elaborate sculpture, and an extensive network of agricultural settlements. Its buildings and agricultural remains are still there. These people had an advanced civilization before the Inca. It is amazing to think the Inca were not the first to build a sophisticated society in the Andes.

    They developed raised agricultural fields, known today as waru waru. Water-filled channels surround these elevated planting beds. The channels helped moderate temperature fluctuations, reducing the risk of frost damage to crops, while the raised beds improved drainage and growing conditions.

    The Inca: An empire built on agriculture

    The Incas inherited thousands of years of agricultural knowledge

    The empire depended on the ability of crops to grow at different elevations. Food was collected, stored, and distributed throughout their kingdom. Potatoes were important in the highlands, while maize, quinoa, and other plants supported populations in different environments.

    Machu Picchu sits high in the Andes. Its buildings, terraces, and water systems demonstrate advanced engineering. It is on most travelers' bucket lists.

    When the Spanish arrived, they encountered an unfamiliar vegetable, a product of thousands of years of agricultural experimentation. They would carry that vegetable across the Atlantic.

    The Irish Lumper: The Potato That Fed a Nation

    The most famous potato is the Irish Lumper. When the Lumper arrived in Ireland, it thrived, even in poor soil, and produced enough food to sustain a family on a small plot of land. The Irish Lumper was a large, knobby, rather homely potato with pale skin and yellowish flesh. It wasn't known for its flavor. Historical accounts describe it as watery, bland, and sometimes soapy. It produced enough yield to feed your family. Add a little milk or buttermilk, and you have a diet that could sustain people doing hard physical labor.

    Small landowners and sharecroppers throughout Ireland depended on the Lumper for their primary source of food. Then the blight came, crossing from America. It was Phytophthora infestans arriving in 1845, and harvests failed. Ireland's dependence on potatoes, combined with inadequate government relief, turned an agricultural disaster into a human catastrophe. Even while Ireland exported some grains to the UK. Approximately one million people died, and another million emigrated, many to America.

    As with all waves of immigrants, they encountered discrimination, but ultimately helped shape the country's economy, literature, culture, and political life. Their wave of immigration led to a long, sustained economic boon for America.

    Today, a group has reconstituted the Lumper, and you can buy one today. It is ok, not my favorite. For that, we have the simple boiled potato from Norway.

    The French Fry: From Belgium to McDonald's

    For generations, the French and Belgians have argued about who invented the French fry. A popular Belgian story claims that people living along the Meuse River traditionally fried small fish, but when the river froze, they cut potatoes into the shape of fish and fried them instead.

    Fried potatoes became popular in Belgium and France during the nineteenth century. Belgians perfected the technique of cooking them twice: first at a lower temperature to cook the potato through, then again at a higher temperature to create that wonderful crisp exterior.

    Belgian fry shops used animal fats, from beef tallow to horse fat from a horse’s kidneys. Yes, some will even tell you that horse fat from the kidney makes the best fries - I wouldn’t know.

    The French fry eventually crossed the Atlantic and became an American institution. For decades, McDonald’s cooked its fries in a mixture containing beef tallow and vegetable oil.

    In 1990, the company announced it would switch to vegetable oil, a decision influenced by growing concerns about saturated fat and a persistent Omaha businessman named Phil Sokolof. Many attribute this change to physicians, but it was really from this first food influencer. Taking out full-page advertisements in major newspapers claiming saturated fat from the fries was bad for the heart. Alas, that “debate” continues.

    But changing the frying fat didn’t change the fundamental technique. Commercial French fries are generally cooked once, frozen, and then cooked again before serving. That is why my favorite tip for making good fries at home is to buy the frozen ones that have already been partially cooked. Finish them in the oven or air fryer, and you can get that crisp exterior and fluffy interior without turning your kitchen into a Belgian fry shop. No horse required

    Fear Not the Potato. Fear the Person Who Fears the Potato.

    The potato wars: From carbohydrates to beef tallow

    Today, the potato is at the heart of several nutritional controversies. From those who say it is one of the evil whites that leads to obesity, to those who think potatoes should be fried in beef tallow. These are the controversies we will address for our paid members.

    Blood Glucose and the Potato

    Potatoes are primarily starch, which your body will break down into glucose. Eating a potato will raise blood glucose, although the magnitude of that response depends on the type of potato, how it is cooked, how much you eat, and how well your pancreas works. It also depends on what other foods you eat with it.


    The Fish that Built America Sep 17, 2026
    Show notes

    In our series about foods that built civilization, we talked a lot about grains, from wheat to corn to rice. Today, we are taking you to the ocean, with the civilizations that salmon built.

    From California to the interior of Alaska, salmon, a staple, allowed people to settle into villages, develop complex social networks, art, and trade routes. Those trade routes are as large as the ones in the Mediterranean. Some tribes built communal homes and developed complex art and language. Some were Seafaring tribes with canoes up to 60 feet long that traveled across oceans.

    All because there was a fish that would return in large numbers to streams and rivers, reliably, predictably. So predictable, the people could build their lives around salmon runs. So much so that some built a calendar not only with lunar cycles, but also with the return of the salmon.

    Civilizations have always gathered around food and water. The Mediterranean connected people who grew wheat and olives, giving people time to make wine, mine copper, build ships, trade with their neighbors, and occasionally go to war with them.

    Asia had rice and grain near the great river systems. The reliable calories from rice and grains allowed villages to become cities and to travel by water to trade.

    Today we are going to my home, from the Ventura River in California to my home state of Alaska.

    The Crop That Swam Home

    Different than the other civilizations, no one had to plant this crop. They didn’t have to tend the crop. It literally swam home every year. Different times for different types of salmon.

    When the first Europeans saw these fish, the river was so crowded they joked you could walk on their backs, crossing the river and never get wet.

    Ketchikan, The Salmon Capital of the World

    I grew up in Ketchikan, Alaska. A city founded upon salmon. Some say Ketchikan stands for smelly fish, apparently after the large spawn, as the fish died, it left quite an odor - you can only imagine thousands of dead salmon.

    Everyone has their favorite type of salmon. The large ones, the King Salmon, also called Chinook, typically start their run to the creeks and rivers in April. You could catch them reliably in late May and June, or even later. We had a King Salmon derby, usually in late May to early June. The record salmon was 79 pounds for that derby. The largest King I ever caught was 26 pounds, and I cannot imagine catching one larger.

    For a fish that was the livelihood of many of my neighbors, the stocks have become so low that the derby I grew up with was cancelled. Global warming has devastated salmon runs.

    The above totem is either an eagle or a man, depending on who you ask. The clam has caught it, and the tides roll in, and the man, or eagle, sings a song. Note the amazing carving, and a story as old as time itself.

    These are Chilkat blankets, or dancing blankets. They take up to five years to create. Made from a combination of inner cedar bark and mountain wool to make the foundation. The colors are mostly dyes of four natural pigments: black (hemlock bark/copper oxide), yellow (wolf moss), blue-green (copper soaked in urine), and the creamy white of natural undyed goat wool.

    Non-Nomadic People

    Because of the abundance, both in terms of the salmon runs, other marine mammals, and berries, they didn’t have to forage. So they were able to build villages with communal living - they were SF before SF was.

    An intense harvest in the late spring and summer led to a winter of art, ceremonies, and the potlatch. The potlatch is a giant party where the hosts not only display their wealth, but give it away. The richer you are, the more you would give, and that would be the nudge for the neighbor to do the same.

    Large villages and communal houses, when encountered by the first Europeans, weren’t something they were expecting. There was an entire civilization, clans, tribes, and alliances. People who made treaties, made war, and played games.

    In Ketchikan, these were rebuilt during the Depression. Here you can see my brother and I being kids - but it also gives you an idea of the large size of these communal homes and totems.

    They did travel through large canoes.


    The Three Sisters Sep 10, 2026
    Show notes

    Corn, beans, and squash, the three sisters, were the Native Americans’ crop, providing a stable source of calories, protein, and farming from Canada through South America. They allowed civilization to go from a hunting people to those who built cities that rivaled Europe and pyramids equal to the marvels seen in Egypt. The rise of civilizations has a pattern: grow a stable crop that allows people to survive, and go from nomads to develop complex societies.

    In our series of foods that built civilizations, we turn to the Americas before Europeans arrived.

    Long before Europeans arrived, civilizations in the Americas had developed writing, calendars, monumental architecture, cities, trade networks, irrigation systems, pottery, and sophisticated agriculture. Corn, or maize, fed the Maya, Inca, and Aztec worlds.

    In what is now the American Southwest, Pueblo peoples built multi-story communities in the desert, while Mississippian societies built towns and enormous earthworks along the great river valleys.

    It began with Corn, or Maze

    It all began with a grass called Teosinte (pronounced “tA-O-‘sin-tE”). Teosinte does not look like corn today, but the DNA shows they are alike, and it was this grass that Native Americans 10,000 years ago began to engineer. In fact it wasn’t until a few years, 2005, ago that modern molecular geneticists discovered that this grass, Teosinte, was the father of corn. For years, people who study plants, botanists, assumed the evolutionary predecessor had long since become extinct. And while Teosinte is widely spread throughout Central America, it was not even considered in the same family as corn.

    The original ear of Teosinte is 2-3 inches long with 5-12 kernels. The kernels were hard, and most human teeth would break trying to eat them. Teosinte is inedible for many people. Contrast Teosinte with modern corn with a cob. A cob is 12 inches long, with over 500 kernels. The coating on the kernel was selectively bred from the rock-hard protecting seed to, now, where corn has an easily chewable, paper-thin, but still indigestible membrane. This was breeding at its finest.

    Ten thousand years ago, there was no plant that anyone would recognize as corn. In fact, there was no corn. By 4500 years ago, corn was throughout all the Americas, with carbon dating of kernels in Arizona from over 3000 years ago, in Canada 700 years ago. Corn allowed the Mayan people to go from a people who foraged to a people who could stay and cultivate.

    You can see from the photos how, as time went on, corn changed: both Teosinte and corn have the same number of chromosomes, and they have the same genes that code for the same proteins. Teosinte and corn can be bred because they are so close genetically. The difference between the grass, Teosinte, and modern corn is about a few genes. Corn didn’t “evolve”; early Native Americans bred corn. Generation of corn after generation, they bred the crop that tasted better, chewed more easily, and survived well.

    In what is now El Salvador, some have said the Mayans discovered corn in the mountains of Chalatenango. Recently, a dam revealed a village in the area, which was one of the original four Lake Island villages of the Mayans. On this land, one can see the range of corn from the grass to the modern corn. If you hike there, you can see places where the Mayans would grow special crops, where they would harvest the Teosinte with the kernels they could eat, and over time, they would breed it and cross-breed it until they had an agricultural system based on this plant.

    So sacred was corn that they called it the “grain of the gods.” To this day, the people in Santa Ana, in western El Salvador, still plant little plots of primitive corn that they call something like “ulupiche”. This is not to eat, but simply to please the ancestors. It is from these Mayans that corn was selectively bred, or genetically engineered for better taste, different colors, and the ability to withstand pests.

    Corn moved quickly, finding its way to Mexico 7000 years ago, South America 6800 years ago, and to North America nearly 4000 years ago. Once Europeans arrived, corn spread even more rapidly through the rest of the world.

    The First Tupperware Party

    Edible Tupperware, that would bring new life into a product that seems to have gone the way of Department Stores and home parties hosted by your neighbor to get you to buy something.

    The first squash was probably used to carry water, food, and grain. Vessels such as these were radioactive-dated nearly 11,000 years ago in Honduras. These gourds were hard; the inside was bitter, but they were efficient to carry water, perhaps cook food, and store knick-knacks (the first junk drawer was a squash). But get hungry enough, and even bitter food can be tasty (not Brussels sprouts).

    The squash family (Cucurbitaceae) was domesticated about the same time. Those squashes were related to zucchini, yellow summer squash, acorn squash, delicata, many pumpkins, pattypan, and crookneck squash. And as much as zucchini feels Italian, these squash were grown and consumed in Mexico thousands of years before Rome existed.

    Multiple types of edible squash were cultivated in different geographic regions and ultimately traded.

    The Bean

    The last of the sisters was the bean. Indigenous peoples domesticated several species of beans in the Americas. The most familiar is Phaseolus vulgaris, the ancestor to black beans, kidney beans, pinto beans, and navy beans. But there wasn’t just one ancestor to all the beans.

    Indigenous farmers domesticated at least five species of Phaseolus. Today, we know their descendants. Besides the black and pinto beans. There was a different region that grew lima beans, and yet others were the scarlet runners and tepary beans.

    Europeans had been eating beans for thousands of years before Columbus. Original old-world beans included fava beans, peas, lentils, and chickpeas. From America, Europe obtained kidney beans, black beans, pinto beans, and cannellini beans. Yup, those favorite beans I put on Paella originally were groomed in America.

    The Three Sisters

    When the first European settlers arrived, they noted the agricultural habits of the Iroquois with the three sisters. The corn provided the pole, the beans fixed nitrogen into the soil, and the squash provided a ground cover that kept away pests.

    This works not only from the perspective of good land use, but also provides a complete protein. You do not have to eat corn and beans in the same bite to create a “complete protein.” But across a diet, their amino-acid profiles complement each other beautifully. Corn gives abundant energy and some protein. Beans add protein, particularly lysine. And, squash adds micronutrients through the seeds, fat, and additional protein.

    The agricultural system worked, and because it worked, it was copied throughout the Americas. The nutrition also worked, without a Registered Dietitian telling them.

    Civilizations

    We have historic records of what happened to some civilizations, which gave us written languages, weights, measures, amazing architecture, and Mayan calendars. The tragedy of the indigenous peoples of what is now North and South America has been well documented. We have no idea what we have lost.

    Yet what remains is the food. What always seems to remain is the food, and now, when you eat your tomato on the pizza, or have cannelloni beans on Paella, you are eating history from the major continents that all had their own civilizations whose contribution was great pizza, paella, and food.

    Every one of the ancient civilizations has disappeared. Their food remains. We read about the Greeks eating whole grains and pulses. We tour Machu Picchu. We marvel at the Code of Hammurabi. We look at the terracotta soldiers guarding the tomb near Xi’an. All while enjoying the food that allowed them to settle and make a civilization.

    Some monuments survived, but the food is still here. I still don’t know why we kept Brussels sprouts.


    Fear Not Rice: It Built a Civilization Sep 03, 2026
    Show notes

    If you spent time in the low-carb world, rice is about as welcome as a toxic waste dump. It is part of those dreaded whites: white flour, white sugar, and white rice. All a part of the reason we are fat, diabetic, and have every disease one can think of.

    But then, if you get out and see the world, you will realize that people eat rice daily, are thin as a rail, relatively healthy, and have some of the longest lives on the planet.

    Today, we will make sense of the madness of rice.

    While people in the Mediterranean were mostly illiterate, in Asia, they had developed writing, laws, philosophy, governments with elaborate testing for civil servants, and gunpowder. In addition, the evidence shows they circumnavigated the oceans, found a larva that could make silk cloth, and developed fine porcelain. They did this while we were drawing crude paintings in caves. Some of our ancestors looked east and even wrote about this “strange” but highly advanced civilization.

    This was all possible with grass, we call rice.

    Yangtze River Basin

    Along the basin of the Yangtze River, and elsewhere, was an edible grass that ultimately became rice. You can imagine it was simply gathered until someone learned how to plant it.

    Wild rice, then, would drop the edible seed as it matured. Replanting those that kept their seed on the plant longer meant the rice was easier to gather. Planting and gathering meant staying in one area, then, with abundance, one had to build storage, and eventually a civilization around rice. Weights, measures, laws, buildings. Once people can exchange for rice, you develop professions, art, philosophy.

    River basins have great soil, but the unpredictability of floods, so management of the river, canals, and all because of a simple grain.

    I realize carnivores like to hunt large game as their primal food, but chasing mammals doesn’t lead to a civilization or a brain beyond hunting. Also true today, although the hunting is reserved for determining which type of beef is better, and which store has better prices. Modern carnivore hunters prefer Costco beef, gyms, testosterone, and making fun of people who take statins. One needs a granary to build a civilization.

    Rice Roads

    The ability to grow rice led to the first trade routes, as rice and the dishes that accompany it. From Bryani, to Pilaf and Risotto, to Paella Rice, made its way through trade routes around the world. And with each region, their dishes were accompanied by rice. Spice roads developed on the trails originally made by rice traders, and one might think the spices were there to make the rice even better.

    Today, we all have our favorite rice dishes. Mine vary between sushi and paella. Every culture accepted rice and made its own dish.

    Some regions even claim their rice came not from the east, but locally.

    Rice and Medicine

    The first peer-reviewed diet for a chronic disease was the Rice and Fruit Diet, popularized by Walter Kempner out of Duke University. He developed the diet for malignant hypertension, the disease that President Roosevelt died of. This disease was almost uniformly fatal within six months of diagnosis. Kempner developed this low-sodium diet of white rice and fruit. In trials, it not only lowered blood pressure but also improved survival.

    In the 1960’s, the diet became popular for weight loss, and throughout the United States, “Rice Houses” became a place for weight loss. Many Hollywood celebrities swore by them.

    Vitamin B1 was arguably the first vitamin

    Today, we know that thiamine deficiency leads to Beriberi, which was a common and often fatal disease in the Japanese Navy. Kanehiro Takaki noticed sailors who preferred polished white rice, almost exclusively for food, developed beriberi. While officers eating a more varied diet generally did not. Hanehro Takati is credited with saving the Navy by changing its diet. Polished rice removes the husk and endosperm of the rice, which is the main source of fiber and nutrients.

    Vitamin A is also unavailable in polished white rice. Vitamin A deficiency remains a preventable cause of childhood blindness. The World Health Organization estimates that 250,000 to 500,000 vitamin-A-deficient children become blind every year, and about half die within twelve months of losing their sight.

    To overcome this, rice was genetically modified to produce a precursor of vitamin A. The rice takes on a deep yellow color, hence the name “golden rice.” Unfortunately, the objection to a genetically modified organism was brought to court and stopped golden rice from being used. While this sits in litigation, these children are still going blind and dying.

    Why not use brown rice? White rice is shelf-stable for years. Brown rice will quickly become rancid, so it has a limited shelf life.

    How to Eat Rice without Losing Your Mind - and Should You Buy the $400 Rice Cooker?

    When writing about rice, there is a lot of heat and not much light. Influencers warn about blood sugar levels, arsenic, while some claim brown rice is perfect and white rice is evil.

    Others, in an attempt to sound like they know science, refrigerate rice overnight and claim it is now transformed into perfection. Let’s go through those claims, as well as the fancy rice cookers I see on the market.


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