The RunOut Podcast

RunOut 137: The Revelations of Jerry Moffatt Nov 18, 2024

Today we’re honored to be speaking with Jerry Moffatt. Jerry was one of the most influential and best climbers in the 1980s and ‘90s, whose groundbreaking first ascents pushed the limits and also was incredibly influential on the direction of our sport. His autobiography Revelations is one of the best climbing books ever, and a must read for everyone who listens to this show. But first, we break down the news of the closures at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. Mt. Arapiles is arguably Australia’s best, most historic crag, and is widely considered to have some of the finest stone of any crag on earth. Now, nearly half of that climbing is being shut down. But why? It’s a complicated question, involving special interests and the government’s unwillingness to rein them in, alongside a general animosity toward climbers. Last, our final bit is from Seattle based Mamas New Cult featuring Zoey Huynh. Show Notes Buy Jerry Moffatt’s book “Revelations” Visit SaveGrampians.org Sign this open letter Change.org Petition Donate to the Climb Victoria Advocacy Fund Tattoo Artist Zoey Huynh Mamas New Cult on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 136: Brady Robinson on Climbing, Advocacy, and the legacy of Armando Menocal Oct 31, 2024

Armando Menocal was a civil rights lawyer and climber who helped found the Access Fund. It’s safe to say that without Armando’s silent but hugely significant contributions, climbing would look very different today. Sadly, Armando recently died at the age of 83 from cancer. Here today to help memorialize Armando is Armando’s friend and colleague Brady Robinson. Brady is the former Executive Director of the Access Fund. He is a veteran of numerous expeditions, with first ascents in Pakistan, Patagonia, and Peru. Today he works as the director of philanthropy at the Freja Foundation and is working on conservation projects in South America. But first, your hosts listen to another climbing podcast, get redpilled, freak out, and launch into a conspiracy of our own about Jimmy Chin and Sandy Irvine. Something’s afoot on Everest … For today’s final bit, climber / musician Jessica Roki Kilroy is back with Right Here Remix. Roki is a climber and musician from Montana, whose experimental, brooding, emotional folk music incorporates the sounds of the natural world, including those that she captured while on El Cap. Show Notes “Remembering Armando Menocal” on Climbing Cuba Climbing Armando Fund on Access Fund Freyja Foundation The Nugget’s Instagram Remains of Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine believed to have been found on Everest Rokifolk.com Follow Jessica Roki Kilroy on Instagram Jessica Roki Kilroy Bandcamp Jessica Roki Kilroy on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #135: Becca Steinbrecher: What it’s Like to Survive a Serious Climbing Accident Oct 18, 2024

Last year, Becca Steinbrecher broke a foothold while climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and took a 30-foot fall onto a ledge. It was only a couple of months later that Becca woke up and learned what had happened to her that day, including the heroic and miraculous search and rescue operation that navigated a thorny web of very tough decisions in order to get her out of the Black Canyon and to a hospital. Becca recounts the events of that fateful as they were told to her, and shares what her experience has been like living with a traumatic brain injury, and ultimately returning back to the sport she loves. But first, some lighter fare as your curmudgeonly podcast hosts go back for round two of ‘Mudgeon Mania. We roll up our sociologist sleeves and build a taxonomy of different curmudgeons in the climbing world, including: the Hermudgeon, the Newmudgeon, and the Sportmudgeon (all now TM properties of The RunOut podcast but available for a Creative Commons license as long as you support our podcast on Patreon.) Today’s final bit is from Moab-based rock climber Sam Newman, who created spooky, silly climbing-themed spoof of Edgar Allen Poe’s seminal poem, The Raven. Show Notes Climbing.com: Major Accident and Dramatic Rescue in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison YouTube: The Great White Wall: Black Canyon of the Gunnison Friends of the Black Canyon Search and Rescue Team Love Your Brain SOAR Adaptive Adventures High Fives Foundation Craig Hospital Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #134: The State of Adventure and Storytelling with Fitz Cahall Oct 02, 2024

Fitz Cahall is the founder of the Dirtbag Diaries, a podcast that’s been downloaded over 18 million times. His new book is “States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost.” But first, childless cat ladies may be a topic for some politicians, but we look at the childless climbers bringing their cats to the crags. Suffice to say, crag dogs are not happy, but at least we have figured out what animal is the best crag companion of all. Today’s final bit comes from Dan Cauthorn’s Seattle-based band Dragontail Peak. Dan climbed Cerro Torre in 1992, which was a major influence on his life, including the inspiration for this song, also called Cerro Torre. Check out Dragontail Peak — links are in Show Notes. Show Notes “States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost” Follow Fitz Cahall on social media Listen to The Dirtbag Diaries Dragontail Peak: Bandcamp // Facebook Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #133: Olympic Runner and Rock Climber Hobbs Kessler Sep 20, 2024

Hobbs Kessler is a 21-year-old professional runner who ran a 3:34 in the 1500m in his senior year of high school. He has also climbed as hard as 5.14c with an ascent of Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge. Hobbs just returned from the Paris Olympics, where he competed in both the 800 and 1500m races. But first, your curmudgeonly hosts roll their eyes at one of climbing’s most bitter personas: the climbing curmudgeon. It’s like we’re looking in the mirror! Today’s final bit is a mother-daughter violin performance of the Appalachian Waltz. The musicians behind this composition are my good friend Kate McGinnis, a nurse from Atlanta who is one of the most talented and strong climbers I’ve ever met, and her 13 year old daughter Annie, who is crushing rock climbs just like her mom. Show Notes Follow Hobbs on Instagram “Hobbs Kessler Climbs 5.14+ and Runs a Sub 4-Minute Mile. And He's Just 17.” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #132: Amity Warme is Bringing Stoke—and Style—Back to Climbing Sep 02, 2024

Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn’s ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition. But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms. Last, Gunky and Professor Wayne Burleson brings us his livingroom version of the Dead's Franklin's Tower. Show Notes Amity Warme on Instagram Amity Warme website Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño. Watch Amity climb Book of Hate “Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com Pay What You Can Toolkit on the AAC

RunOut #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead Aug 19, 2024

Out #131: Drew Ruana Climbs Hard and Thinks Ahead Drew Ruana started climbing on the slabs of Smith Rock, and has since become one of America’s most prolific boulderers, with over 100 V14 and harder problems ticked. He’s currently a student at the Colorado School of Mines, and thinking ahead of what kind of career he wants in life, and how climbing fits into it all. But first, yr friendly podcast hosts debrief on their Olympic fever, and talk about where Paris soared, and where it fell short. Today’s final bit is from the all-girl punk band Fire Party, who was part of the DC punk scene in the late 1980s. In true punk fashion, the members of Fire Party — including the lead singer, badass climber and friend of the pod Amy Pickering — rejected the label of being an all-girl band. Show Notes Watch Drew Ruana climb the Ice Knife Follow Drew on Instagram Follow Amy Pickering on Instagram

RunOut #130: Thomas Huber Unleashes Freedom on America Aug 01, 2024

Thomas Huber is our favorite Huber brother—no offense to Alex. He needs little introduction, and is one of the most prolific climbers of the last 30 years thanks to a resume that includes establishing some of the best free climbs on El Capitan and across Europe, to winning the Piolet d’Or for his bold alpine ascents, to being a member of the beloved Stone Monkeys. His new book Freiheit, In the Mountains There is Freedom, is now available in English from DiAngelo. But first, yer hosts consider the question of giving and receiving encouragement while climbing. Why do we feel the need to yell, “You got it!” at people who clearly Do. Not. Have. It.? And is a little peace and silence too much to ask around here? Last but never least, our final bit is another awkward collision between climbing and mainstream media, as the news tries to capture the heroism of a dramatic, life-saving rescue. Show Notes Buy Thomas Huber’s book Follow Thomas Huber on Instagram Read an excerpt from Huber’s book on Evening Sends Follow Jordan Cannon Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #129: Olympic Fever; Plus: When Climbers Become Parents with Allyson Gunsallus Jul 24, 2024

Allyson Gunsallus is a climber and lawyer who serves on the board of the American Alpine Club. She is also the producer and director of Hand Holds, a new film interview series providing resources for climbing parents. Our conversation explores how climbing parents navigate the risks inherent to our sport with the demands of their new identity, not to mention the little person in their lives. But first, we’ve got a tepid Olympic fever and the only cure is more speed climbing. We give the run-down on who to look for in the Olympics, and why it’s only Sam Watson. Last but never least, the great Steph Davis onsights an off-the-couch piano performance of the soundtrack of Interstellar. Show Notes Hand Holds is six free-to-watch episodes featuring interviews with well-known climbers, including Beth Rodden, Majka Burhardt, Eddie and Anna Taylor, Jon and Jess Glassberg, Kris Hampton, and Chris Kalous. Visit handholdsfilm.com for more information. Follow Allyson Gunsallus / Hand Holds on Instagram Follow Steph Davis on Instagram Who is in the Olympics? Watch Sam Watson set the world record Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #128: Activism and Climbing with Miranda Oakley Jul 02, 2024

Miranda Oakley is an AMGA certified rock climbing guide, who set the record for being the first woman to rope solo the Nose in a day. As a Palestinian-American, she recently made headlines by hanging a political banner on the side of El Cap. We discuss this unlikely nexus between climbing and activism, and imagine how it can go right or wrong. But first, fresh off a week of climbing in America’s new favorite sport crag, Kalous has some observations he wants to share. For our final bit, we’re stoked to share the Salt Lake City progressive rock climber band Better in Color with their track “The Imprisoned One.” Show Notes Follow Miranda Oakley on Instagram Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan Movement Lessons from Climbers With Palestine’s Yosemite Banner Hang Better in Color Follow Better in Color on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #127: Sensei and Sensibility: Climb Smarter with Justen Sjong Jun 20, 2024

Today’s guest is climbing coach Justen Sjong. Justen is known for his first free ascents of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a) and The PreMuir (VI 5.13c/d) on El Capitan, and redpoints of 5.14 sport climbs. His approach to improvement in climbing is far more cerebral than most standard training fare, and his intuitions and sensibilities as a coach have helped numerous climbers mine their untapped potential by clearly mental barriers and finding the present. But first, your egotistical hosts talk about the infamous climbing ego: the ways it can hold us back, and how it might be embraced so as to fully excel. Our final bit comes from a late evening in a dusty desert hill, as the campfire embers cooled and all the little boys and girls had already turned in to their sleeping bags. One of our favorite climbers and musicians, Lisa Hathaway, plays us a tune with Chris Kalous on the ukulele. Show Notes Climbing Sensei — Book a coaching session with Justen Follow Justen Sjong on Instagram Training with Justen, Part 2 — Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #126: Who Was Tobin Sorenson? A Stonemaster Pays Homage to One of the Climbing’s All-Time Greats May 31, 2024

Today we have a double-header. Two guests, same great show. First up is Rajiv Ayyangar—an entrepreneur, CEO, and host of The China Beach podcast, a show about his obsession with arguably the best sport climb on earth (at least according to him!). Rajiv might have the most niche podcast on earth, and we dive into where his obsession with this one route comes from. Next is OG Stonemaster Rick Accomazzo, who has just completed a new book on Tobin Sorenson. In the 1970s, Tobin completed some of the most audacious climbs, bringing a a kind of fearless courage that both left his partners in awe and shaking with fear. His 1977 season in Chamonix might just be one of the best seasons any climber has had in that range, ever. Tobin perished in the mountains at the young age of 25, but his legacy is now being told for the first time in a way that lives up to his achievements, skill, and vision. Our final bit is a poignant recording from our archive with the late, great Paul Nelson. Show Notes Follow Rajiv Ayyangar and the China Beach Podcast China Beach Podcast Watch Nina Williams climb China Beach Stonemaster Books Pre-order Tobin, The Stonemasters, and Me 1970-1980 by Rick Accomazzo Read “The Day I Sent Colorblind” by Paul Nelson Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #125: Michael Levy Brings Back Summit Journal; Plus, the Definitive Gumby Episode May 17, 2024

After Rock and Ice and Climbing magazines stopped printing issues, a hole was left in the climbing media landscape. Enter Michael Levy, a writer based in New York City and a former editor at Rock and Ice. He has recently revived Summit Journal, and reimagined it as a heavy stock climbing magazine for climbers today. We talk about climbing media and the viability of print, and what it takes to make it in today’s digital world. But first, yr crooked-helmet wearing hosts talk about Gumbies. What are they? Who are they? Why are they? And why does Alex Honnold think Gumby is such a joyous term. Strap in for the definitive lesson in how to not be such a Gumby—even though you’ll never not be one. Last, we’re psyched to share the music of climber / producer Smith Curry, a session player and producer for Willie Nelson, Taylor Swift, Maren Morris, Dolly Parton, Pharrell Williams, Kid Rock, Jason Aldean and 200+ more. Show Notes Summit Journal Follow Summit Journal on Instagram Follow Michael Levy on Instagram Follow Smith Curry on Instagram Smith Curry Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 124: How Jesse Grupper is getting Psyched and Ready for the next Olympics Apr 30, 2024

Last fall, Jesse Grupper took home the gold medal at the Pan Am games, securing his spot on Team USA for the Paris Olympics in 2024. Now just a few months out from the Games, we caught up with Jesse to hear about how he is preparing and getting psyched to represent our country in lead and bouldering at the Olympics—all while balancing life as a mechanical engineer pushing the limits of soft robotics to improve people’s lives. But first, yr sticky, sweet podcast hosts get into a debate about glue and when it’s appropriate to use it to fix boulder problems that break. This discussion comes after one of Colorado’s oldest and most historic boulder problems broke, and locals put the question to the community for a vote. Buster Jesik, IFMGA / AMGA mountain guides, lays down a sick drum track for today’s final bit. Show Notes Jesse Grupper Wins PanAM Follow Jesse Grupper on Instagram Mental Standard Has Broken — Instagram Mental Standard — Mountain Project Mountain Project Thread Follow Buster Jesik on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 123: How NFL Lineman Wes Schweitzer Uses Rock Climbing to Move Better and Get Stronger Apr 16, 2024

Our guest today is #71 for the New York Jets: Wes Schweitzer, an offensive guard whose injuries sent him down a curious path of recovery: rock climbing. Since discovering the sport, Wes has fallen in love with climbing and uses it as a tool to improve his performance on and off the field. At 6’4” 330-pounds, Wes is considered one of the strongest lineman in the game, putting up 765-pound deadlifts well over twice his body weight. As a true professional athlete, Wes delivers some fascinating insights into how both football and climbing training mentalities could benefit from each other. But first, yr favorite climbing podcasters play a game of Fuck, Marry, Kill with climbing gear. Our final bit is a track from Harris Freif called “Tortillas and Peanut Butter” off his album Guitar 2. Show Notes Follow Wes Schweitzer on Instagram and Twitter “Meet the 330-pound NFL Lineman Addicted to Rock Climbing” Check out Harris Freif on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 122: Will Moss Leaves No Stone Unclimbed Mar 26, 2024

Will Moss is a comp climber turned traddie from New York City, who has been quietly ticking some of the hardest gear-protected routes in the country over the past couple of years. His most recent notable ascent is the FA of the Gunks hardest: The Best Things in Life Are Free (5.14d R). But first, we wind our way into a discussion about the elusive “undercover crusher,” and whether this mythical beast actually climbed the thing before everyone else, or if this is just what some bro is saying in order to take you down a peg or two. Last, we’re honored to feature the atmospheric music of climber and musician Jessica Kilroy, with her track “It’s Infinite.” Show Notes Follow Will Moss on Instagram William Moss, 18, Establishes 5.14d R Trad in the Gunks via Climbing Magazine R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear on YouTube About James Litz Nacho Sanchez on Instagram Follow Jessica Kilroy on Instagram Jessica Kilroy Bandcamp Jessica Kilroy on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #121: Beth Rodden Reveals A Light Through the Cracks Mar 08, 2024

Today’s guest is a climbing icon and legend: the great Beth Rodden. Beth was a youth national comp champ who went on to become one of the greatest female climbers of her time, with important first free ascents of El Cap and single-pitch trad test pieces such as Meltdown, a 5.14c crack that many say is harder and took a decade before it was repeated. Her new book is called A Light Through the Cracks. But first we talk about the elusive “all-around” climber, with Bronwyn Hodgins at the top of mind. What does it take to be considered a great all-around climber? And is that the future for what we demand of our top-end climbers? Today’s final bit comes courtesy of the extremely talented Beezer (aka Mason Earle) with the track Loggersports. Show Notes Follow Beth Rodden on Instagram Pre-order A Light Through the Cracks from an independent book store or big one Follow Bronwyn Hodgins on Instagram News / post about Bronwyn’s latest redpoint Watch Bronwyn and Jacob Cook free climb a big wall Follow Mason Earle on Instagram Check out Beezer on YouTube Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #120: Josh Wharton Redpoints the Alpine Feb 20, 2024

Josh Wharton is one of America’s top alpine climbers, with light and fast ascents of iconic peaks from Patagonia to Alaska to the Himalaya. His latest first free ascent with Vince Anderson, is called Suerte (5.13a, WI6, M7, 3,500 feet) and it’s located on Jirishanca (20,100 feet) in Peru. This ascent, which took years to “alpine redpoint,” is featured in a new film headlining Reel Rock 18. But first, yer friendly RunOut hosts discuss Kalous’ recent trip out to his namesake dance party at the Michigan Ice Fest, where there was more festing than icing. Our final bit comes courtesy of Evan Philips, fellow podcaster at The Firn Line, with his song Close to Me. Show Notes Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson send Suerte on Climbing.com Reel Rock 18 Spotlight: Jirishanca Michigan Ice Fest Chris Kalous Dance Party The Firn Line podcast Close to Me on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #119: Dean Fidelman, Portraits of an Artist Jan 30, 2024

Dean Fidelman is a legendary climbing photographer, whose body of work and portraitures have come as close to capturing the elusive soul of our sport as any photographer ever has. He’s perhaps best known for his Stone Nudes series of fine-art black-and-white bouldering photographs, but his career first began as a 16 year old kid with a camera, documenting the Stone Masters era of Yosemite and all the legendary characters associated with it. His latest book is “Fidelman: A Body of Work,” an ambitious retrospective that chronicles the career of climbing’s perhaps most ambitious and iconic artist. But first, yr friendly podcasting hosts wonder whether everyone is making climbing, and training for climbing, way, way, way too complicated. Our final bit shares an intimate moment between a father and son, resolving a typical schoolyard conflict with a bit of jamming. Show Notes “Fidelman: A Body of Work” is available from DiAngelo Publications. Follow Dean Fidelman on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #118: The Power of Climbing Community and Development—and the Threats it Faces Jan 15, 2024

Two amazing guests today. Two important conversations related to community and development. First, we speak to Sam Lightner Jr. about the latest threats to climbing access in America. Sam is a prolific route developer, who is perhaps best known for developing the climbing in Southern Thailand and helping turn Railey and Tonsai beaches into the destinations they are. But he’s also established many routes in the American west, and done the heroic work of replacing hundreds of anchor bolts under the American Safe Climbing Association. He was also one of the first board members on the Access Fund, and has continued to advocate for climbing access in America. We break down the latest attempt from extremist “wilderness” advocacy groups to cynically use the language of the Wilderness Act to prevent climbers from legally climbing in wilderness areas located in National Parks and Forest Service lands. Our main guest is Genevieve Walker, a professional climber and climbing guide who is working to promote greater access and representation for underrepresented groups in the outdoors. Her recent expedition to Malawi worked to develop and empower the local climbing community. Her trip reframes how we traditionally think of a “climbing expeditions,” centering a community-oriented approach to empowerment over sick sends. Last but not least, our final bit comes from Colorado climber Kyle Ward with his latest EP and the eponymous song Get Goin’. Show Notes Access Fund: Action Alert: Stop the Bolt Prohibition Submit a comment to the NPS Submit a comment to the USFS Follow Sam Lightner Jr. on Instagram Read: “Breaking the Wilderness Bell Jar” on Evening Sends Follow Genevieve Walker on Instagram Follow Climb Malawi on Instagram Follow The Global Climbing Initiative on Instagram Is Rock Climbing the Future of Tourism in Malawi? Follow Kyle Ward on Instagram Listen to Get Goin’ on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #117: How Two Big Wall Noobs Free Climbed the Nose Dec 29, 2023

Alex Waterhouse and Billy Ridal are both 26 years old, from Sheffield, England, and have been competing on plastic since they were 12. But once slapping plastic lost its allure, these two climbers found themselves dreaming of adventure. And adventure they found, as they spent a month fumbling their way into the world of big-wall climbing during a month long trip to Yosemite National Park earlier this year. And the unlikely duo emerged from their trip with one of the greatest prizes in climbing: a free ascent of the Nose. We caught up with the lads and talked about how they pulled it off. But first, your increasingly trivia-oriented show hosts look back on 2023 and try to recall what the hell happened. Last, damn good Buddy Spray from RunOut RopeGun Cooper Houston. Show Notes Two Retired Comp Climbers Pull Off a Rare Free Ascent of the Nose on Climbing.com Follow Alex Waterhouse on Instagram Follow Billy Ridal on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #116: Mary Catherine Eden Charms the Black Mamba Dec 13, 2023

Mary Catherine Eden is probably best known for popular Instagram account @tradprincess, but she’s far more than just another online influencer. She’s recently ticked one of the hardest crack climbs in the country, Black Mamba (5.14b), joining a small group of women, if not people of any flavor, who have climbed 5.14 on gear. We talk about her love of crack climbing, progression, “eating her veggies,” and balancing it all in life. But first, yr lovable disgruntled show hosts grumble about new proposals that seek to regulate our ability to place bolts in Wilderness. Our final bit comes all the way from Glasgow, UK, as Dan Brown combines his love of climbing with music. Show Notes Follow Mary Eden on Instagram News of Mary’s ascent of Black Mamba Access Fund report on the latest climbing management plans Dan Brown music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 115: Jakob Schubert Goes B.I.G. (Plus Jared Leto’s big TR) Nov 23, 2023

Jakob Schubert is a four-time World Champion, an Olympic bronze medalist, and he has more IFSC gold medals than another male competitor. He’s also sent some of the hardest routes in the world, including, most recently, a first ascent of Project B.I.G. in Flatanger, which he rated 9c, making it only the third route ever to be given this grade. Our interview with Jakob takes us behind the scenes on his livestream of sending B.I.G.; his ticklist of some of the hardest routes in the world, especially Chris Sharma lines; who he thinks might be a contender in the next Olympics; and his love of American football. But first, we talk about Jared Leto’s toprope ascent of the Empire State Building, and try to figure out why everyone so mad. Today’s final bit comes from OG local legend Joel Brady and his band d'Artagnan and the Banjoman. Show Notes Follow Jakob Schubert on Instagram. Subscribe to Jakob Schubert’s YouTube Channel. Climbing.com’s news report on Project B.I.G. Jared Leto Climbs Empire State Building on BBC Photo of Jared Leto climbing by Renan Ozturk on the NatGeo feed Follow Joel Brady on Instagram “I’m Dying” by d'Artagnan and the Banjoman Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #114: Kris Hampton Taps into the Power of Climbing History Nov 10, 2023

Kris Hampton is the brains and brawn behind Power Company Climbing and the cohost of the podcast by the same name. His insatiable love of creating new things, whether that’s training plans for climbers or music, has led him to launch Written in Stone, a new climbing history podcast looking at monumental moments in our sport, decade by decade. But first, we respond to a couple of show listeners who had an absolutely insane exchange with climbing’s most notorious authority. No, we’re not talking about cops or park rangers. We’re talking about the kid who gives the belay test in the gym. Finally, we’re honored to share some new music from our super talented friend Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, director, and musician / storyteller. His new EP is called Full Moon Fight. Show Notes Power Company Climbing Power Company Climbing and Written in Stone podcasts Follow Kris Hampton on Instagram Follow Andy Mann on Instagram and check out his music here Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly Oct 24, 2023

RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly RunOut #113: How a Race to Get a Climbing Record Turned Deadly This fall, two American women found themselves in an unlikely race to reach the summit of Shishapangma, and thereby earn themselves a place in the record books as being the first American woman to have done all 14 8,000-meter peaks (with oxygen). Unfortunately, both Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidło, alongside their respective Sherpa guides Mingmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama, perished in two separate avalanches about 30 minutes apart around 7,800 meters. Did this informal competition lead them to making bad decisions that ultimately cost everyone their lives? To make sense of this terrible tragedy, as well as to discuss some of the ongoing issues around competency, infrastructure, and regulations within the Himalayan guiding industry, we speak to Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions. Adrian has guided numerous high-altitude peaks, including many summits of Mount Everest, and his company Alpenglow leads over 30 international expeditions each year. And he has also personally climbed Mount Everest and K2 without using oxygen, and notably made the first ski descent of Makalu. But first, your friendly neighborhood climbing podcasters think about what would happen if the Rapture came for pro climbers and they were all smite’d away from this good, green earth. Would that change anything about the climbing we know and love? Last, today’s final bit comes from an experimental instrumental band called Les Rhinoceros, with drums and percussion played by climber and friend of the pod Jon Burrier. Show Notes Via Explorer’s Web: “What Happened on Shishapangma: The Climbers Speak Out” Shishapangma Avalanche: Two U.S. Women, Two Sherpas Dead/Missing Follow Jon Burrier on Instagram and check out his SoundCloud Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #112: America’s First Climbing Gym Owner Sounds the Alarm Oct 10, 2023

Our guest today is Rich Johnston, the president and owner of Vertical World in Seattle, known as America’s First Climbing Gym (TM). He’s also the founding chairman of the Climbing Wall Association, where he served for 16 years, and a board member on The Mountaineers. Rich tells us about the earliest days of the climbing-wall industry, why he never thought climbing gyms would succeed, and how important culture and philosophy are to creating a community of climbers that abide by the inherent risk doctrine. All of this is a prelude to discussing an important bellwether lawsuit that was just settled involving a climber who didn’t clip himself in properly to an auto belay, and still came away with a whopping settlement in his favor. But first, your favorite climbing podcast hosts talk about the nebulous rules and etiquette for passing people on a multi-pitch climb. When should you let people play through? And is it ever OK to just pass without permission? Last but not least, our Final Bit comes to us from listener, climber, fellow dad, and self-proclaimed “normal guy” from Boise, Idaho, Alan Keller. HIs band is called Prairie Mountain Plain and this new song “North Bound and West” is from their latest album While They Sleep. Show Notes Climbing Mag: Gym and Auto Belay Manufacturer to Pay $6M in Settlement for Auto Belay Accident Evening Sends: Will Climbing Gyms Survive the Lawsuits? The plaintiff’s attorney’s press release. Vertical World’s response Vertical World Andrew Megas-Russell on Instagram Prairie Mountain Plain on Spotify

RunOut #111: A Fine Line for Graham Zimmerman Sep 19, 2023

Today’s guest is Graham Zimmerman, an alpinist, a recipient of the Piolet d’Or and a director at Protect Our Winters, a climate-advocacy group. His new book is “A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.” But first, cave raves are all fun and games until your favorite crag gets shut down. Your favorite climbing podcaster hosts try to figure out where their personal boundaries lie for self-policing the climbing world. Our final bit is an original ode to Vedauwoo by climbing couple Morgan Shannon and Ben Baltich. Show Notes Follow Graham Zimmerman on Instagram Order his book from The Mountaineers. Protect Our Winters

Bonus: Alannah Yip Sounds the Alarm on Eating Disorders Sep 06, 2023

Today, we're releasing one of our bonus episodes from our Rope Gun feed on Patreon because the content is a PSA and super important for as many climbers out there to hear. Our conversation is with Alannah Yip, an Olympic sport climber from Canada with an incredible career. This summer, Alannah started a conversation about the prevalence of eating disorders in high-end comp climbing, fears about RED-S afflicting athletes, and what many view as foot-dragging by the IFSC, comp climbing's governing body, to do much about it. After Alannah's viral post on Instagram, she was joined by the likes of Janja Garnbret in adding her concerns to the conversation, and this topic has also resulted in two doctors resigning from the IFSC medical commission in protest over their inaction. If you like this episode, and want to never miss important bonus episodes such as this one, please join us on Patreon! For as little as $5.14/month you'll get bonus content and other perks and help us continue to cover the best sport in the world through this podcast. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com Show Notes IFSC Doctors Resign, Alleging Health Dangers in Competitive Climbing Follow Alannah Yip on Instagram Alannah's IG post

RunOut #110: Russ Clune is Climbing’s Lifer Sep 03, 2023

Our guest today is the esteemed Russ Clune, a climbing legend of the Shawangunks in New York, where he has established notable first ascents and from where he bases in between trips to dozens of countries and crags around the world. His new book is “The Lifer: Rock Climbing Adventures In The Gunks And Beyond.” But first, yr hosts try to figure out why everyone hates trustfunding dirtbags so much. Our final bit is some music from Lambros Markousis, a climber, metal fabricator, musician, and amateur stop-motion animator out of Buffalo, NY. Performing as the artist Sorbmal, here is the song “Num.” Show Notes The Lifer: Rock Climbing Adventures In The Gunks And Beyond at DiAngelo Publications Read: The Day I Sent Balance of Soul by Russ Clune on Evening Sends Follow Sorbmal on Spotify

RunOut #109: John Middendorf on How Climbing Gear Precedes Progress Aug 12, 2023

Our guest today is a genuine legend and one of the pioneers of big-wall climbing. John Middendorf is a mechanical engineer, gear designer, researcher, writer, and teacher based in Tasmania. His climbing accomplishments pushed the limits of big-walls, adventure, and exploration throughout the 1980s and ‘90s. Most notably, he’s responsible for the first ascent of the East Face of Great Trango Tower, widely considered the largest and steepest continuous wall in the world at 4,400 feet, which he achieved with Xaver Bongard in 1992. The team used portal edges designed by Middendorf himself from his company A5 Adventures. Over the years, Middendorf has continued to refine his portaledge designs, with the D4 Designs which you can find on his website bigwalls.net, one of the first climbing websites in the world. Today, Middendorf has been engaged in an academic review of esoteric climbing journals of old to learn how the developments and advancements of gear have preceded leaps in progress thanks to the “influencers” of the day. But first, yer friendly podcasting hosts are back on their usual bullshit after a few weeks of summer vacation. Our final bit is some buddy spray from RunOut listener Andres Santiago. For spraying about his buddy, Andres is receiving a Yeti Yonder water bottle. If you’d like to submit spray, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast to do so. Show Notes Check out bigwalls.net Mechanical Advantage, Vol 1. Mechanical Advantage, Vol 2. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #108: Colin Haley and the Lifelong Epic Quest of Alpinism Jul 31, 2023

Our guest today is one of the all-time great alpinists of our time. Colin Haley joins to the show in the wake of an uneventful trip to Alaska, and explains why such missions are part of a healthy approach to pursuing a lifetime of adventure and alpine climbing in the mountains. But first, your hosts return from separate vacations and commiserate over how easy and glamorous it is to climb abroad with kids, while still making space to sneak in some deep-water solos. For our final bit, we present an original composition for Marimba by Jared Kohli entitled Joyous. Show Notes Follow Colin Haley on Instagram Report on Alaska trip Free soloing Fitz Roy ✅ Rate and review us on iTunes with ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ ✅ Force your climbing partner to listen to this show ✅ Blast our entire archive of episodes over the speaker system of the climbing gym where you work ✅ Join us on Patreon by becoming a Rope Gun. For less than the cost of a gallon of diesel, you can save the environment while receiving extra bonus episodes of your favorite climbing podcast.Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #107: Speed Climbing is OK Jul 15, 2023

Our guest today is Albert Ok, a YouTuber and speed-climbing coach. Albert goes by the handle Professor Ok, and creates content that breaks down movement. He tries to break climbing down into its most fundamental parts in order to best understand it. He’s also a talented speed climber, boulderer, and all-around athlete. But first, Andrew reports on a little local controversy from Chamonix regarding one of the most decorated alpine climbers of his generation who was prosecuted by an authoritarian politician, and what all of this means for the big thorny question of fixed gear in the mountains. Our final bit features the heavy psychedelic grooves of the band Pontiak. Show Notes Follow Albert OK on Instagram Subscribe to Albert Ok on YouTube Christophe Profit Found Guilty of Removing Safety Gear From Mont Blanc Follow Pontiak on Instagram and Spotify

RunOut #106: Taylor Swift and Walldies. Plus: Ontario’s Climbing Nightmare Jun 30, 2023

This episode is a proper mix of silly and seriousness, as we talk to Mike Penney, director of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers, who is currently pushing back on the government’s regulations threatening access to 75% of Ontario rock climbing, and even going so far as to actively chop bolts from cliffs. This a big deal, and worthy of the climbing community’s attention and energy, even if you’re not from Canada. The cliffs of Ontario are in close proximity to many midwestern climbers and our friends up north need our support to help keep climbing across Ontario open. But first, Chris and Andrew look to Taylor Swift and her fans for inspiration on a hot new piece of gear that we predict will “change” the climbing nation — PUN INTENDED! Introducing the Walldies. You won’t want to miss them. Last, RunOut RopeGun Nick De Haas sprays down his buddy, for which he’ll be receiving a Yeti Yonder water bottle. If you have some Buddy Spray, join us on Patreon for details on how to submit your entry. Show Notes Help support the access fight for Ontario climbing here: https://climbinparks.ca/ Follow Mike Penney and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers on Insta. Ontario Crag Chopped by Land Managers

RunOut #105: Quad Life, Anchor Dweebs, and Keeping Print Alive Jun 12, 2023

Luke Mehall is the publisher of The Climbing Zine, and the the creator of the Dirtbag State of Mind podcast. After America’s two most prominent climbing magazines either went under or went digital, the Climbing Zine now stands as an unlikely last remaining print vehicle for telling stories about rock climbing and dirtbag culture. We get into the future of print, the struggle in finding people willing to put in the work of writing about climbing, and the joys of living a creative life. But first, Kalous deviously baits one of the most annoying corners of climbing social media by posting a photo of his new favorite anchor: the Quad. The anchor dweebs of Instagram are predictably not happy. Last, a new Final Bit that you’ll have to hear to believe: Bend, Oregon’s own Billy and the Box Kid Show Notes The Climbing Zine Dirtbag State of Mind podcast Follow Luke Mehall, The Climbing Zine, and DSOM on Instagram Quad post #1. Quad post #2. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #104: Savannah Cummins Balances it All May 31, 2023

Savannah Cummins is a filmmaker, photographer, and all-around professional climber. We talk about some of her wildest expeditions to the farthest corners of the planet, dealing with injuries and medical malpractice, losing her partner in a tragic and freak accident in Mexico, and recently discovering a diagnosis that put all the pieces together for her. But first, we try to keep our heads above water as our favorite local climbing area closes due to a Biblical flood. Why does God hate sport climbing? Last, some Buddy Spray from RunOut Ropegun and Colorado College alum Tim Johnson, who encounters a climbing legend and Shaman of the animal kingdom one day out at the crags. For this, Tim will receive a Yeti water bottle. And if you’d like to submit Buddy Spray, you must support this podcast on Patreon. Show Notes Follow Savannah Cummins on Instagram Check out Sav’s film on El Gavilan Nolan Smythe accident report on Alpinist Read AB’s story about trying El Gavilan on Evening Sends Listen to Jeff Jackson on the Enormocast Read Hayden Kennedy’s “Day We Sent Logical Progression” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #103: Can Cedar Wright Keep Dirtbagging Alive? May 14, 2023

In an era of remote work and $200K Sprinter Vans, it may seem like the archetypal dirtbag of climbing lore is obsolete if not dead. Cedar Wright is on a mission, however, to keep it alive through a new program he’s starting to try to encourage young, stoked climbers to make the most of life by living on the least. But first, we dive into how Starlink is changing the climbing experience by keeping some climbers connected everywhere. How will this newfangled technology be welcomed in climbing areas where you could once remain blissfully offline? Our final bit features some studio music from friend of the pod, Black Diamond employee, great climber, and even better singer-songwriter Chris Parker. Show Notes Follow Cedar Wright on Instagram to learn more about the DirtBag fund and other Cedar adventures. Chris Parker on Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #102: Christian Beckwith digs in to the 10th Mountain Division Apr 30, 2023

RunOut #102: Christian Beckwith digs in to the 10th Mountain Division Our guest today is Christian Beckwith, a writer, podcaster, and co-founder of Alpinist Magazine and the Teton Climbers Coalition. His latest project is 90 Pound Rucksack, a historical podcast exploring the dawn of outdoor recreation in America through the story of the 10th Mountain Division. But first, the boys catch up after a run-in with some paparazzi at the Moab grocery store, and a few trips to the Creek with some fresh eyes for the power of rock climbing. Last, we’re psyched to share climber Harvey Merritt’s band Ponytails’ song, “Barbie and the Bam Bam.” Show Notes Christian Beckwith and 90 Pound Rucksack // Spotify // Apple Podcasts Follow Christian Beckwith on Instagram MeamsOfMoab on Instagram Steph Davis’ Indian Creek Crack Clinic Ponytails on Spotify Harvey Merritt on Instagram Ponytails on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #101: Will Congress let climbers bolt in Wilderness? Apr 14, 2023

The Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380) is a bipartisan collaboration before Congress that aims to establish rock climbing as a legitimate activity across all federal lands, and direct relevant federal departments to include language in their management policy that addresses rock climbing and the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors. What does this bill say and what does its implications mean for rock climbing in the future? We bring in Chris Winter, Access Fund executive director, to fill us in on his ongoing efforts to lobby on behalf of the climbing community. But first AB fills in Chris on some of the latest headlines in the climbing world, from April Fools faceplants to stealth edits on Chris Sharma’s ascent of Sleeping Lion. Last, we have some Buddy Spray, presented by Yeti and open only to those who support our podcast on Patreon. Ben Chipman sprays downs his friends and for this welcome bit of selflessness we’re giving him a Yeti Yonder. Show Notes Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act press release Read the bill Give money to the Access Fund April Fools: 8a and Climbing E-Grader Sharma Sleeping Lion news Bishop is moist

RunOut 100: Live with Tommy Mar 27, 2023

For our hundredth episode (has another podcast ever reached such a milestone?) we hosted a live conversation and Q&A with Tommy Caldwell for all of our RopeGuns, our supporters on Patreon. Join us if you’d like to support the show and be invited to our next live broadcast, whenever that is. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #99: Corey Rich: AI and the Future of Climbing Photography Mar 13, 2023

Is climbing photography dead? In an era in which everyone has an iPhone and now generative AI can create realistic photographic “content,” what role does a professional photographer play in 2023? We talk about these issues and more with one of the most successful climbing photographers and directors of all time, Corey Rich. Corey isn’t just a talented creative, he’s a smart and savvy entrepreneur who understands the business of creating photos and videos as well as anyone in the industry. And he’s also a good friend! But first, we chat about AB’s new film “Resistance Climbing,” which is now in theaters around the world as part of the annual Reel Rock 17 tour. The film captures a climbing community in Palestine, and we talk about how this kind of international climbing development often leads to some fraught questions about motivation and intention. Last, Hayden O’Shea pays homage to the late El Cap pirate, Ammon McNeely, and tells the story of joining Ammon on his first voyage back up the Big Stone after losing his leg. Show Notes Follow Corey Rich on Instagram. Get a copy of Corey Rich’s book “Stories Behind the Images.” Check out the trailer for Reel Rock 17 and find a show near you. Follow Hayden O’Shea on Instagram. Read “The Last Iconoclast: Ammon McNeely” Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #98: More with Majka Burhardt Mar 01, 2023

RunOut #98: More with Majka Burhardt RunOut #98: More with Majka Burhardt Majka Burhardt is a professional climber, author, and mother of twins. Her new book is More: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood. We talk to Majka about the struggle to find that elusive balance while holding out hope for having it all. But first, Chris gets the bad news that he’s been fired from the show, and will be replaced with a host who has more followers on Instagram. (We will report anyone who points out how, of the two hosts, Chris is the one with more followers—never mind that!) This news follows on the heels of the outdoor industry shake-up that Eddie Bauer fired its entire roster of pro climbers. Eddie Bauer makes climbing you gear, you say? We had no idea either! Last, a rose for the bottom feeders of our latest bonus episode interview with the great French climber Antoine Le Menestrel. If you like what you smell, join us on Patreon.com/runoutpodcast. Show Notes Majka Burhardt MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood Why Did Eddie Bauer Lay Off Its Whole Team of Professional Athletes? It’s Complicated. Climbing Freed: Chasing Antoine Le Menestrel Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #97: Why Lynn Hill is going back to the fundamentals Feb 17, 2023

Lynn Hill needs no intro. She’s best known as the individual who completed the first free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan, as well as the first person to free El Cap in a single day. The ascent broke gender barriers and progressed the sport. Today, Lynn is returning to the fundamentals, through a new video series that is designed to help climbers learn how to move as naturally, efficiently, and effectively as possible. We sat down with Lynn in her Boulder home to catch up with one of the sport’s absolute legends. But first we get in the weeds with Viet Nguyen, a controversial coder responsible for OpenBeta.io, which has the goal of developing climbing’s first open-source route database. We try to unpack what open source means, and why it will become the future of climbing guides and apps. Our final bit is a climber band called TKTK Show Notes Check out The Fundamentals of Climbing by Lynn Hill. OpenBeta.io The Future of Climbing Guides Must be Open Source on Evening Sends. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #96: Thomas Huber is Free Jan 30, 2023

Thomas Huber is one of the most accomplished and beloved climbers of all time. Along with his brother Alex, Thomas helped pave the way for modern free climbing on El Capitan with FreeRider, Golden Gate, and host of other first free ascents. He’s a Piolet d’Or recipient for his first ascent with Iwan Wolf of the north pillar of Shivling. And his new book is In Den Bergen ist Freiheit — In the mountains, There is Freedom. But first, we have a conversation with up-and-coming climber and comedian Bridget Epitropakis from Australia. She’s figured out how to fund her new climbing habit by murdering audiences in laugh clubs in Denver, CO, where she’ll be returning this year for another run of shows. Last, we finish with “Brothers & Sisters,” the latest single from Thomas Huber’s band, Plastic Surgery Disaster. Show Notes Follow Thomas Huber on Facebook. “In Den Bergen ist Freiheit” Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Twitter. Follow Plastic Surgery Disaster on Spotify. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #95: Hazel Findlay Builds Strong Minds Jan 12, 2023

New Year, New Us. We connect for the first podcast of 2023, and Chris shares his aspirations of becoming a climbing warrior while Andrew is back on his usual bullshit of planning for another year of truly unimpressive mediocrity. Hazel Findlay comes to the rescue, with an inspiring conversation about her approach to mental training through her Strong Mind training program. She offers her wisdom on everything from what makes us all afraid to fall (and fail), to why Alex Honnold is, mentally, so special. Hazel reflects on her past year, in which she climbed 9a with Escalamasters, and established two remote big-wall first ascents in Greenland with Honnold, as well as battled lots of injuries. Be sure to check out StrongMind Climbing to register for Flight School, which is launching soon! Our Final Bit comes from one of the most talented and unsung figures in the climbing and photography world, Celin Serbo, who has somehow found time to compose original music in his free time. Show Notes Check out StrongMind Climbing and follow them on Instagram Of course, follow Hazel Findlay on Insta. And you may as well follow Celin Serbo too while you’re at it. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #94: Inside Free Soloing with Jeff Smoot Dec 20, 2022

What’s the best way to belay with a GriGri? How should you build an anchor? Is that CE-certified piece of webbing really strong enough for real-world climbing? The internet has an opinion on this and more! Walk with us through the muck of know-it-alls offering their two cents on everything. Next, one of our favorite writers Jeff Smooth returns to the show to plug his new book All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, and regale us with his own experiences in this darkest of dark arts. Last but never least, Madeleine Sorkin shares how her experience of sending the hardest route on the Diamond face of Long’s Peak inspired her in more ways than one. Show Notes All and Nothing: Inside Free Soloing, available from The Mountaineers or wherever you get books. Check out episode #21 of The RunOut for our first interview with Jeff Smoot on his last book, Hangdog Days. Follow Madeleine Sorkin on Instagram Listen to our bonus interview with Madaleine by joining us on Patreon. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #93: Alex Honnold Hits Different Dec 08, 2022

We kick it with Alex Honnold, the rock climber who was once on 60 Minutes. He has even done a few other impressive things since then … you know, like free soloing El-fucking-Cap. It’s been a big year for Honnold, from traversing the polar regions of Greenland in search of a 4,000-foot unclimbed sea cliff while doing extreme climate science, to going deep into the pain cave on his epic HURT traverse in Red Rock, to nearly killing Magnus Mitbo, to perhaps, most importantly, becoming a dad. All while expanding his reach as media star. Honnold was gracious enough to come down off his perch and roll around in the muck with us podcasting lowlifes for a candid and fun conversation that traverses all the great things that we love about climbing, proving that he’s still a dirtbag at heart. To hear an extended cut of our interview with Alex Honnold, please support the show by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon. But first, we attend to some unfinished business in the form of arbitrating, litigating, and otherwise conversing about booty. The “crazy girl” from our recent debate about booty’d gear writes in with her side of the story, and we formally submit her complaint into the record. Court’s in session and all the booty is on the line. Last but not least, we’re honored to share an excerpt from one of our favorite climbing podcasts in the world, the Jam Crack podcast with Niall Grimes. This interview excerpt with the great Ben Moon is not to be missed. Show Notes Alex Honnold in Greenland on National Geographic Alex Honnold’s HURT traverse Alex Honnold Free Solos with Magnus Mitbo Part one of the great booty debate, Runout #88 Listen to the whole JamCrack Podcast 112 with Ben Moon Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #92: Libby Sauter and the Myth of Having it All Nov 24, 2022

We’ve got a double-header today with two amazing guests. Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete, along with many of the coaches, to continue their work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains. Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women’s speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she’s been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all. Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life. Show Notes Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram. Training for the New Alpinism Libby Sauter on Instagram. Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record. Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling Fertility Doctor YouTube The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here’s What Helped Me (Finally) Send. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #91: Katie Brown is Back Nov 10, 2022

Last month, an 8-year-old boy and his dad “climbed” El Capitan with the help of two other anonymous climbers who presumably guided the father-son team, fixing all the ropes so they could jug up the wall. We look at the media attention this ascent received, and discuss our concerns over claiming these kinds of records. Our main guest is a woman who Lynn Hill once called, “the greatest female sport climber” — Katie Brown. Katie has produced a new memoir about her precocious life as a world-class competition and sport climber, as well as her fraught relationship with her mom, her struggles with eating disorders, and how becoming a mom herself has helped her reframe everything. Our final bit is pulled from the archives of The Davenports with this yacht rock classic cover of Jay Ferguson’s 1977 song Thunder Island. Who’s that on bass, you ask? None other than our own Chris Kalous. Show Notes Did an 8-year-old actually climb Yosemite’s El Capitan? Not really. It’s complicated Father of 8-year-old who ascended El Capitan challenges criticism of his son’s feat Unraveled: A Climber's Journey through Darkness and Back Jay Ferguson - Thunder Island (1978 - HD) Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #90: The Permit Debate Continues Oct 25, 2022

If there is one thing you can say about this show, it’s that we are the most fair and balanced climbing podcast in the world. Following last episode’s discussion about Yosemite’s proposed overnight permits for big-wall climbers, we are speaking to two guests from the opposite side of the debate: Jesse McGahey is Yosemite National Park’s head climbing ranger. And Timmy O’Neill is a longtime professional athlete, founder of Paradox Sports, and board member of the Yosemite Climbing Association. Our discussion over this important rule-change proposal continues. But first, we muse about the art of the sandbag. When is it totes aprops to hose your friend, and when is it just downright cruel? And what does it say about YOU when you’re the only climber not getting sandbagged by your peers? Finally, Lucas Roman returns to the show to read an excerpt from his new book “The Greater Fool: Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality.” Show Notes Read about the Wilderness Climbing Permits from the NPS Add your voice to the discussion! Submit your comment about the Wilderness Climbing Permits here by November 16. Lucas Roman’s new book “The Greater Fool: Brad Gobright and the Blinding Shine of Originality” is available at DiAngelo Publications. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #89: Ethics, Rules, Crowds, Permits Oct 01, 2022

The Yosemite National Park is attempting to make its Covid-era rule in which climbers are required to have a permit to spend the night on a big wall permanent—and predictably, climbers aren’t happy about it. We spoke to two of the most active big wall climbers in Yosemite in recent years about the current state of affairs in the Valley: Gena Wood is a former climbing ranger and a veteran of more than 20 ascents of El Cap. And Lance Colley has also worked for the park service, and has completed 29 ascents of El Cap in the past three years. But first, the hosts catch up after two very different climbing experiences, and discuss the serial chipper on the loose in Utah and determine just who, or what, is to blame. Finally, “Jefe” (Jeff Jackson) returns to the final bit with some Hawaiian-inflected jams. Show Notes Submit your comment on big-wall permits by November! Follow Lance Colley on Instagram Follow Gena Wood on Instagram Watch the Park Service’s virtual town hall explaining their rationale for the permit James Hornibrook’s Change petition against the permits Read up on Booz Allen Hamilton in the NYT and again in the NYT. Evening Sends article on chipping. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #88: Booty Rules, Aloha Jefe Sep 20, 2022

Who doesn’t love booty? Finding gear on a route can make a climber’s day, but what are the best practices for finding the owner’s gear? Court’s in order for your friendly podcast hosts as they debate the finer points of booty while litigating one listener’s story of being accused of not doing enough to return booty to its “rightful” owner. Our main guest today is Jeff Jackson, aka “Jefe.” Jeff is easily one of climbing’s most prolific route developers and greatest writers and storytellers. A former editor of Rock and Ice magazine and successful screenplay writer, Jeff currently teaches creative writing at the University of Hawaii Maui College. While living on Maui, Jeff has helped develop hundreds of new rock climbs and crags. Some of the more famous routes of his career, however, are located in Mexico and include El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico and El Gavilan on La Popa, which happens to be the subject of a new climbing film. Last and certainly least, “Whose PSSAT is this anyway?” returns for today’s final bit. Show Notes Read “Paradox of Paradise,” by Jeff Jackson, which was originally published by Rock and Ice and appeared in Best American Sports Writing 2019. Read “A Climber’s Ghost Story, Unexplained,” also by Jefe. Check out the trailer for the new El Gavilan film by Savannah Cummins. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #87: Jonathan Siegrist eats Kinder Cakes for breakfast Sep 01, 2022

Jonathan Siegrist, one of the world’s best sport climbers, returns to the show to share the news of his recent send of Rifle’s hardest route. We catch up on the latest in the climbing world in a casual conversation that traverses freely and honestly across the climbing landscape. But first, your friendly neighborhood podcast hosts explore what climbing may — or may never — mean for our kids, and how we think about raising the next generation in an era of social-media-fueled pressure to be “rad” at everything. As always, you won’t want to miss today’s final bit from Butchcop. Photo: @BearCam Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com Show notes Follow Jonathan Siegrist on Instagram And follow BearCam Chris Kalous' instagram post Butchcop on Spotify The RunOut bonus interview with Joe Kinder about establishing Kinder Cakes

RunOut #86: Climbing is in Seb Bouin’s DNA Aug 19, 2022

Our guest today is Seb Bouin, one of the best rock climbers on Earth and the author of DNA, one of three 5.15d rock climbs established thus far. We talk to Seb about grades, how he measures success, the benefits of climbing outdoors vs. training indoors, and where the future of rock climbing is heading next. But first, we take a somber look at a recent accident on Half Dome, in which a young woman fell 80 feet and badly injured herself. In the aftermath of this terrible accident, calls are sounding to add bolts to one of Half Dome’s more historic climbs. We consider the contours of the debate and attempt to arrive at some ideas for how to proceed in the wake of an accident. Today’s final bit comes from the band Rebelle, a Quebec-based band whose drummer, Joey Kane, is a sport climber who first discovered climbing during the pandemic and has been hooked ever since. This is their new song, Head on Fire. Show Notes Seb Bouin on Instagram: DNA (9c), Iron Curtain (9a+/b), Change (9b+), Nordic Marathon. Who Cares about the World’s Hardest Route on Evening Sends. 80-foot Slab Fall Leaves Yosemite Climber Critically Injured Student hit with $1.2m medical bill after falling in Yosemite Donate to Anna’s Recovery Rebelle on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Spotify Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #85: WTF is “Ski Mountaineering” with Cody Townsend? Jul 29, 2022

To start, we grimly remark on the latest round up of avalanches, landslides, and glacier collapses and what that means for mountain travel in the future. Our main guest today is Cody Townsend, a self-proclaimed “rock climbing gumby” but a true all-mountain badass, free skier, ski mountaineer, and extreme-sports ambassador. Cody offers a wonderful outsider-looking-in perspective on our self-serious sport. He also dishes up the latest from Ski the Fifty, a multi-year effort to ski all 50 of the classic ski descents of North America, as listed in the eponymous coffee table book by Chris Davenport and Penn Newhard. Some of the percussions in today’s final bit riff are created using climbing gear—but knowing that won’t stop you from putting on some serious bass face. This track comes to us from Craig Bruenger, a climber who plays in the death-metal band Ahtme. Check out his Instagram page to see his videos. Show Notes Second glacier avalanche in a week shows dangers of a warming climate Ice avalanche kills 6 in Italian Alps, sparks mass rescue effort Cody Townsend on Instagram Ski the Fifty Craig Bruenger on Instagram — His gear percussion video Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #84: Connor Herson Returns Jul 20, 2022

Connor Herson returns to the show, a few years older, a few inches taller, and more than a few impressive ticks under his belt. One of his latest ascents is “Empath” on gear—potentially one of the harder gear leads ever recorded. Carlo Traversi first climbed Empath and proposed 5.15a. After quickly sending the route as a sport climb, Connor had the idea of trying it on gear. In this episode he shares his experience with that process, his thoughts about the difficulty of the route, and his vision for what’s next (hint: it’s not climbing). First, your friendly and utterly relatable hosts pay homage to a kind of trad climbing that most of y’all will be more familiar with—the everyday, everyperson experience of going up on a 5.10 or 5.11 with a rack of gear and trying to onsight your way to the top. Could this be any different from, say, the ego-fluff of Ten Sleep? Finally, Jeremy Fullerton gives us the first-person account of one of the most epic days in Rocky Mountain National Park, when the mountains moved. Show Notes Connor Herson on Instagram. Does Connor’s ascent of Empath on gear count as the hardest trad ascent? Rocky Mountain National Park Closes Chaos Canyon Area Due to Rockslide Watch Will Mondragon’s footy of the rockslide. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #83: Justification for a Trad Attitude Jun 28, 2022

Hard, scary trad climbing is all fun and games until someone breaks their back. That’s what happened to Molly Mitchell on Crank It, a 5.13+ sport climb in Boulder Canyon that Molly was attempting to headpoint on gear. Nevertheless, Molly sought redemption and returned to the climb years later and ultimately sent it on gear. But what she discovered about her self, and her health, ended up being the real prize of this inspiring journey. But first, the hosts take a closer look at how one of the biggest and hardest routes on Denali got not one but two insane speed records set within a matter of weeks. That would be the Slovak Direct, with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau setting the pace at 21 hours, 35 minutes. Then two weeks later, Michael Gardner, Sam Hennessey and Rob Smith came in at 17 hours, 10 minutes. Our final bit is music from an old classic. Show Notes Follow Molly Mitchell on Instagram. Read Climbing magazine’s report on Molly’s ascent. The Alpinist reports on the Slovak Direct. Justification for an Elitist Attitude, by Mark Twight. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #82: From Skardu to Comp Don’ts Jun 16, 2022

We begin with a conversation with Ben Hanna, the newest member of the prestigious USA Climbing National Team. At 23 years young, Ben is a longtime crusher from Santa Fe who we’ve watched go from being a young grommet at Rifle to throwing down at World Cups with the world’s best. Ben talks to us about what the current comp scene is like, a short-lived controversy with the IFSC, and how living in a training house with some of the best climbers in the world upped his game. Next, we speak with Wali Kamal, a Pakistani-American climber from California who is working to support the development of crags and climbers in Pakistan. We wanted to highlight his efforts to strengthen the Pakistani climbing community, and discuss how this kind of development is so much more meaningful than the kind that only involves placing bolts in your local choss pile. Last but not least, we’re happy to introduce you to Bridget Epitropakis, a bright and talented climber and comedian from Australia who is currently working the comedy club scene in the front range of Colorado when she’s not out in Eldo. Show Notes Follow Ben Hanna on Instagram IFSC Last Minute Rule Change … Follow Wali Kamal on Instagram Follow Zom Connection and contribute to their GoFundMe to support Pakistani climbing. Follow Bridget Epitropakis on Instagram and Twitter Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Bonus: Carlo Traversi Does Magic May 18, 2022

Carlo Traversi is having one of the best climbing years of his life. He's sending V-insane, 5.15b sport, and 5.14c trad — all while managing a successful business that immeasurably improves the lives of climbers in his own community. He's got a healthy perspective on the sport, everyone respects him, and he's also super smart and has interesting opinions on everything. Yeah, we hate him too! Just kidding! Carlo is the man! We recorded this conversation earlier this year just after Carlo ticked Magic Line (5.14c), the second hardest pure trad climb in Yosemite after Meltdown, which Carlo also climbed for its first male ascent. Gawd, why is so good at climbing? We really hate him so, so much!Again, just KIDDING! We're psyched to share this episode on our public feed so long as at least HALF of everyone who listens agrees to support this podcast by becoming a Rope Gun on Patreon. Will you do it? Will you? Please?Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #81: The Sanctity of Space May 10, 2022

What’s better: cragging it up in a full-on scene filled with gumbies and noobs, spray bros and crusher queens? Or going off to some obscure choss pile in the middle of nowhere and enjoying the quiet solitude of nature all by yourself? We debate the pros and cons of scenes vs solitude and come to the conclusion that, no matter which one you choose, either way the only person laughing at your jokes is still just you. Next, Freddie Wilkinson and Renan Ozturk join us to talk about their new film The Sanctity of Space, a feature-length film documenting their Tooth Traverse of the Moose’s Tooth massif in Alaska. The film, however, is a rich exploration of many profound themes in climbing, and a really compelling portrait of Bradford Washburn, the aerial mountain photographer, scientist, and mountaineer whose photograph was the original inspiration behind this ascent. Last but not least, Jonathan Howland reads a passage from his new book Native Air. Show Notes The Sanctity of Space — Showtimes Instagram: The Sanctity of Space. Freddie Wilkinson. Renan Ozturk. Native Air by Jonathan Howland. Jonathan Howland website. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #80: Barefoot in Font, Valley of Giants Apr 27, 2022

Will a new film from Reel Rock encourage climbers to engage in risky behavior and not use their rubbers on the rock? We discuss Barefoot Charles and his conspicuously well-coifed mane of hair. Next we speak to Lauren DeLauney Miller, a writer and climber who has released a wonderful new book of first person essays from the significant women, both well known and perhaps lesser known, who have made contributions to Yosemite climbing history. Finally, we share the guitar-picking music of climber and friend of the show Harris Frief, a musician in Bishop, California. Show Notes Barefoot Charles Catch Barefoot Charles on the Reel Rock Tour Lauren DeLauney Miller website and Instagram Check out Harris Frief’s music on BandCamp: “Guitar” and “Right Where You Left Off” and please kick him a few bucks to support his great songwriting. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #79: Bish Slaps Apr 08, 2022

After not watching the Oscars because who cares, we talk about the thing everyone was talking about and recall some of the more famous slaps that have been seen at crags around the world and throughout history and lore. Our main guest is Matt Segal, professional climber for The North Face, coffee entrepreneur, and publisher of the newly released Brine Magazine—a printed zine that looks at the intersection of food, adventure, and people, featuring gorgeous Drew Smith photography, and words written by ya’ boy Andrew Bisharat. Finally, we’re honored to feature the music and talents of Andy Mann, one of the most accomplished polar and ocean photographers in the world, a good climber, a great storyteller, and an overall wonderful human being. Show Notes Get a copy of Brine Magazine from Alpine Start Foods. Follow the Brine Mag crew on Instagram: Matt Segal, Drew Smith, Andrew Bisharat, Bryan Cole, Bret Roedemeier, and Brine Mag. Read Climbing in the Verdon on Evening Sends. Follow Andy Mann on Instagram. Check out Andy Mann’s website to see all the great things he’s doing. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #78: Bolts are Out but the Doctor’s In Mar 14, 2022

A new climbing management plan in Joshua Tree National Park redefines bolts as installations. We pore through this ominous plan to try to figure what the hell is going on in J-tree, and what this may mean for climbing in Wilderness locations around the country. Then, we sit down with Dr. Jared Vagy, AKA The Climbing Doctor, a physical therapist based in Los Angeles who specializes in treating climbing injuries. Our conversation runs the gamut of everything from finger tweaks to back pain, and ultimately meanders into a meta analysis of how one comes to be an expert in training and injury prevention. For today’s final bit, get those horns up Television Sick—a band that plays loud, fast music from climber / guitarist Hunter Goldfish. Show Notes Climbing Management Plan for Joshua Tree National Park The Climbing Doctor “Afterglow,” Television Sick, available at Bandcamp. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #77: Greasy and the Beast Mar 03, 2022

Ned Feehally is one of the few climbers ever to have flashed V14 (8B+). He is also one of the founders of Beastmaker, a U.K. climbing company that ushered in an era of fine wood hangboards that you just don’t mind grabbing cause they’re just so cushy. His new book is ”Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber,” and is a comprehensive look at training techniques that anyone can use. We discuss training philosophy with Ned, the rise of guru-dom in the training world and the why training has gotten too complicated for its own good. But first, we attempt to make this podcast a true-crime pod by speculating on whodunnit with regards to the recent vandalism of the Big Bend boulders outside of Moab, Utah. Moab uber-local Lisa Hathaway gives us a first-hand report on GreaseGate as we probe the scene of the crime. Last but never least, Chris Parker returns to the Final Bit with a new song called Passing Through about ultra-runner Joe Grant’s Colorado feats of glory. The song will officially debut in vinyl alongside an “immersive experience” at the Five Point Film festival this spring. Show Notes Ned Feehally on Instagram. “Beastmaking” is available from Vertebrate Publishing and Amazon. News: Ned Feehally and Shauna Coxsey are coming to Salt Lake City for a presentation and book signing on March 20. Get your tickets here. Steph Davis’ Instagram post about Greasegate. Anyone with information about Greasegate can call the BLM tip line at 435-259-2131. Callers may remain anonymous. Chris Parker Music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #76: Cool Shoes, Jordan Cannon Feb 15, 2022

Friend of the pod and crusher of granite Jordan Cannon returns to the show with an update from his life on the road. We dive into a range of topics across the climbing spectrum, while trying not to be old-shamed by our young friend. But first, tragedy strikes in Patagonia as the climbing world loses one of its best: Corrado “Korra” Pesce, who died while descending Cerro Torre on January 28th. His partner Tommy Aguilo experienced serious injuries and attempted to descend alone, and was ultimately rescued in a completely heroic effort by some of the best climbers in the world. We discuss the story itself, and pay homage to the noteworthy successes and climbing accomplishments that were sadly overshadowed by the tragedy that ensued. Finally, we end on happier note, as Dylan Taylor, aka “Climberisms” on Instagram, imagines a conversation between Adam Ondra and Alex Honnold about baby diapers. Show Notes “Corrado 'Korra' Pesce dies after climbing new route on Cerro Torre with Tomas Aguilo” A crowdfunder to help Korra Pesce’s daughter. Description of Tommy and Korra’s new route. Follow Jordan Cannon Follow Dylan Taylor Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #75: Celebrities and Relationships Jan 18, 2022

Are you listening to The RunOut or TMZ? It may be hard to tell as we catch up on the latest celebrity gossip: weddings, babies, and who we are wearing this season. Next, we are joined by Dorian Evers, a climber and couples therapist from Boulder, to talk about some of the typical red flags and relationship disfunction that she sees across the climbing world, beginning with how relationships are portrayed in films. Finally, we’re stoked to share a folksy bluegrass band from California, One Grass Two Grass. Their song She Sings is from their latest album All Storms Pass. (The band’s bassist, Sam Trimboli, is a solid rock climber and surfer.) Show Notes Adrian Ballinger and Emily Harrington wedding in NYT, ABC News, and SF Chronicle Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki’s wedding announcement Dorian Evers: Cultivate Growth Therapy One Grass Two Grass homepage and Instagram All Storms Pass on Spotify Sam Trimboli on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #74: Max Lowe and his new film TORN Dec 27, 2021

Alex Lowe was considered one of the best climbers in the world in the 1990s. His feats in the mountains were as legendary as his infectious stoke for getting out and loving life on the edge every minute of every day. In October 1999, he and the cameraman David Bridges were killed in an avalanche on Shishipangma in Tibet. Their third partner, Conrad Anker, however, was miraculously spared the same fate and ended up surviving the avalanche. Alex left behind a wife, Jenni, and three young boys: Max, Sam, and Isaac. In the wake of Alex’s death, Conrad, racked by survivor’s guilt, stepped into the role of dad for the Lowe boys, and he ended up falling in love with and marrying Jenni. Today, Max Lowe has become a renowned National Geographic photographer and filmmaker. His new film, TORN, explores his family’s complex relationships in the wake of father’s death. The film is a haunting and unsparing look at how death can tear a family apart, and what it takes to heal. Next, our favorite lyricist and climbing trainer Kris Hampton treats us to a final bit. Show Notes Watch the trailer for TORN Find a screening for TORN near you. Power Company Climbing

RunOut #73: Real Crack with Tom Randall Dec 09, 2021

RunOut #73: Real Crack with Tom Randall Today we’re joined by British crack-climbing legend Tom Randall to discuss his latest first ascent with his partner in crime Pete Whittaker. The duo, fondly known as the Wide Boyz, recently completed a 2,500-foot dead-horizontal roof crack on the underside of overpass in their native England. The 70-pitch crack, with difficulties consistently between 5.12d and 5.13b took the lads four days, and this journey will be subject of an upcoming Reel Rock film fest. But first, we hash out an online scuffle involving whether a GriGri has a place on a multi-pitch climber’s rack. Finally, Bradley Carter, aka Chum-DM3, pays homage to the late Paul Nelson, who unexpectedly died of natural causes earlier this year. Show Notes The Great Rift report. Follow Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker on Instagram Enormocast on Facebook. “Full Nelson” by Chum-DM3 on Apple Music Paul Nelson obituary. “The Day I Sent Color Blind (5.13 R)” by Paul Nelson on Evening Sends Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #72: Hear Them Lor Nov 22, 2021

Lor Sabourin is one of the country’s top trad climbers, with ascents as hard as 5.14a on gear. They are a coach, a guide, and the subject of a new film called, “They / Them: One Climber’s Story.” We spoke to Lor about the film, and also got the low-down on the incredible route that we see Lor climb in the film. For today’s final bit, we’re serving you a tasty musical treat pulled from the catalog of Chris Kalous’ days as a member of the band Sector 7G. This song, which climbing-podcast aficionados will recognize as the outro music to the Enormocast, is called “Borrowed Time.” Sector 7G was one of those “you-had-to-be-there” bands of Carbondale, Colorado, funkadelic myth, but today their legend lives on. Please enjoy, happy thanksgiving to all who celebrate, and see you folks in December as we’ve got a ton of great guests and topics to discuss. Show Notes “They / Them: One Climber’s Story” Lor Sabourin on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #71: Climbing Big Nov 11, 2021

Birthday challenge accepted: Chris Kalous manages to commemorate his big 50th birthday with a big day of climbing: 50 pitches at Indian Creek. After the soreness and cramps relent, we catch up and decompress about a day that was personally meaningful and resonated widely. Next, we catch up with Drew Hulsey, a climber and social work from Tennessee who is using his Instagram account to do big things and show the climbing world that this is a sport for everyone. We learn the amazing story of how Drew got into the sport, and how he balances his ambitions in a sport that can sometimes seem quite competitive. For our final bit, more buddy spray! If you want to shout out your buddy, you can become a RopeGun by joining us on Patreon. Show Notes Drew Hulsey on Instagram “Why We Go: Drew” Birthday challenge Bonus Episode of The RunOut Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #70: Flexing 5.15 and Making Land Acknowledgements Oct 21, 2021

What was the first 5.15b in the US? With Matty Hong’s recent second ascent of Flex Luthor, which upgraded to 5.15b, we consider how this news shapes Tommy Caldwell’s legacy and what this means for our understanding of sport climbing. Nerd alert! Grade geekery ahead. … For our main bit, we speak with the esteemed Len Necefer about the restoration of Bear’s Ears by the Biden administration, as well as the potential danger of land acknowledgements. Len is a pHd. and assistant professor at the University of Arizona with joint appointments with the American Indian Studies program & the Udall Center for Public Policy. In addition, he is the founder & CEO of Natives Outdoors. But most folks will know him as the Meme God of the outdoor world, whose wonderful sense of humor on Instagram spares no target or topic. Finally, a bit of buddy spray—a new bit in which listeners tell us about their climbing buddy’s big sends. If you’ve got a buddy you want to spray about, you have to join us on Patreon as this is only open to Rope Guns. Show Notes Matty Hong sends Flex Luthor Climb Harder Just By Getting Older—like Tommy Caldwell Len Necefer on Instagram. Website. We Need to Reframe Why We Do Land Acknowledgments Biden Restores Bears Ears and Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monuments Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #69: The Continuing Legend of Chris Sharma Oct 01, 2021

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what’s going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing’s GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram IFSC apology Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #68: Chasing the Alpinist Sep 09, 2021

RunOut #68: Chasing the Alpinist Marc André Leclerc was one of the most reticent and enigmatic figures in climbing—a guy who few knew much about other than what what we learned from the second-hand reports emanating out of the alpine and describing his latest solo. Even the perpetually nonplussed Alex Honnold shuddered in fear and awe upon hearing some of what Leclerc had managed to climb. On today’s podcast, we are joined by the director and filmmaker Peter Mortimer, whose new film is The Alpinist, which tells the definitive and long-awaited story of Marc André Leclerc. Peter reveals some of the behind-the-scenes details about making this film, the honor of getting to know one of the most beguiling and talented figures of our sport in recent years, and ultimately, the pain of losing him to an avalanche right as the film was supposed to be wrapped. But first, we dive into a bolting debacle on Pike’s Peak and consider whether we’re in the final throes of these debates, or if we will continue to see the invocation of the Bachar-Yerian Fallacy as a way to perpetuate climbing’s most depressing pissing match. For our final bit, Aaron Glasenapp has a total eclipse of the heart. Show Notes The Alpinist film homepage and where to get tickets. Sender Films “From Climbing Partners to Bitter Enemies: In the Trenches of the Pikes Peak Bolt War” by Corey Buhay for Climbing.com Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance survey results The Case of Ten Sleep on Evening Sends. Watching the eclipse on the Grand Teton. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #67: John Long Finds His Wings Sep 01, 2021

John Long needs no introduction—he’s climbing’s most prolific writer, Stonemaster, and a genre unto himself. He joins us to talk about his excellent new book, Icarus Syndrome, a collection of 19 essays that, in different ways, explore our strange compulsion to risk it all. After this deep literary dive, you might find yourself thinking, “You know what would be perfect right about now? A nice cup of tea.” The RunOut has got you covered! Hazel Findlay joins us from across the pond and gently guides us through the steps we must follow to make a proper cup of tea. If you’re listening on the free feed, you’ll hear us answer a question submitted by one of our Rope Guns. This excerpt came from an hour-plus-long AMA episode that was available to our Rope Guns on Patreon. For as little as $5.14 / month, you can become a Rope Gun and get access to full bonus episodes and the satisfaction in supporting your favorite climbing podcast. Show Notes Icarus Syndrome from DiAngelo Publications. Follow John Long on Instagram and Facebook. Hazel Findlay — Instagram Subscribe to Hazel and Mina’s excellent podcast: The Curious Climber Podcast Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #66: The Art of Route Setting with Jackie Hueftle Aug 03, 2021

Who owns the rock? The answer is, obvi, no one … And yet some climbers sure seem to act as if they think they do. We dive into a discursive etiquette discussion after some Ten Sleep climbers hog up a rock climb all day long. Then, Jackie Hueftle, a legend in route setting and part of the team at Kilter, joins us to talk about the art of route setting. If you think route setting is just a matter of screwing holds onto a piece of wood, you’ll be surprised to learn how much talent and physical fitness is required to be a top route setter in the climbing world. Jackie also gives us her predictions on the Olympics, given that the route-setting team is all male. Finally, Raymon Bonner, a show listener, treats us to some original music on the “youk” (ukulele). If you’d like to submit your own idea for a Final Bit—a bit of music, a joke, fourth-wave feminist slam poetry, a surly rant—you can send in your idea to andrew@runoutpodcast.com. Show Notes Setter Closet “The History of Climbing Holds” by Jackie Hueftle for Route Setter magazine “Where are all the female route setters?” “Setting the Standard” — interviews with IFSC route setters at Gym Climber. The RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT — Check out our last episode for more about climbing in the Olympics. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #65: Beating the GOAT, Olympics Edition Jul 23, 2021

Ah, the Olympics: the time when GOATs will be made just as GOATs will be beaten. Do we really need to keep referring to the Greatest Athletes of All Time as a bunch of smelly, stubborn animals? Perhaps that’s fodder for a different discussion, as today, we stand in awe of the 40 climbers who’ve earned their spot in the Olympics alongside our knowledgable guest, John Burgman. John is the JOCK—the Journalist of Climbing Knowledge—at least when it comes to all things competition related. John gives us a deep and thorough run-down of what to expect for climbing’s debut in the Olympics, while we learn the basics—namely, who Colin Duffy is. Kicking off the show, however, yer boys talk spray and the super spreader events that contribute to this epidemic of self-centered climbing culture (hint, it’s Instagram). Finally, Vancouver-based climber and musician Harvey Wright closes out our greatest episode of all time with his song “Be Kind to Yourself.” Show Notes John Burgman on Twitter “High Drama: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of American Competition Climbing” The schedule for when and how to see climbing in the Olympics Colin Duffy on Instagram Harvey Wright on Spotify. Crux: a documentary about Harvey Wright Enormocast 222: Harvey Wright — Heart Like an Ocean Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #64: How to Be Funny on Instagram and Why Everest is OVER Jul 09, 2021

We’re back with a hot take: Everest is OVER. The past season suffered from a COVID outbreak and a cynical authoritarian crackdown that even left some of Everest’s biggest cheerleaders with their pompoms down and deflated. Our main bit features the guy behind the Climberisms account on Instagram: Dylan Taylor, a routesettering at Touchstone Climbing in Los Angeles. Dylan’s puts the truth to what pro climbers might be thinking with his raw impersonations that he dubs over actual videos. From Daniel Woods to Adam Ondra, Sean Bailey to Alex Honnold, no one is safe from getting climberism’d. Our final bit is telegraphed in by the deep baritone of John Long reading an excerpt from his new book Icarus Syndrome from Di Angelo Publications. For the full story reading, become a Rope Gun today. Show Notes Follow Climberisms on Instagram Alan Arnette’s round up of Everest 2021.

RunOut #63: Alex Johnson Wins the War with the Swarm Jun 15, 2021

Alex Johnson opens up about sieging her 10+ year project: The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop. Plus, Chris and Andrew revisit Yosemite regulations. For today’s final bit, ever wonder what the world’s best alpinists talk about after getting done with a 30-hour push and drinking a beer? Jesse Huey and Quentin Roberts got you covered.Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #62: Climbing’s New Regs. Plus, John Branch & Sidecountry May 22, 2021

Climbers wake up to the new reality of regulations in Yosemite, and crags across the country. Plus, we talk to John Branch of Dawn Wall fame. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #61: Jordan Comes Out May 03, 2021

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RunOut #60: The Future of Everest Apr 16, 2021

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #59: Woe is Pro Apr 06, 2021

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #58: Dave Graham Goes Off Mar 22, 2021

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RunOut #57: Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and the Story That Needs to be Told Mar 09, 2021

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RunOut #56: Shining Light on Eating Disorders in Climbing Feb 16, 2021

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #55: Alpinism’s Bright Future and Dark Past Jan 30, 2021

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #54: Climbing Media Ethics Jan 22, 2021

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RunOut #53: Embracing Your Own Progression with Nina Caprez Jan 06, 2021

If you’ve ever found yourself clawing your way up the second pitch of a Gunks moderate with a 25-pound rack gear slung across your sweaty chest, you may also find yourself dumbfounded when you see pictures of pro climbers free climbing 20 pitches up the side of El Cap with nothing but a single locker and maybe an X4 on their harness. What do they know that you don’t? We share the secret knowledge of how “real” climbing gets done, and other sausage-making tips. Next, we chat with Swiss climbing icon Nina Caprez about her current adventures during COVID. Turns out she’s taking #vanlife to the next level while re-evaluating what goals and progression mean on a personal level. Finally, Niall Grimes delivers an unforgettable tribute to the late Doug Scott in a way that only he can. Show Notes Nina Caprez and “Andrea,” Nina Caprez’s adventure rig. Niall Grimes and his Jam Crack Podcast Portrait (C): Keith Ladzinski

RunOut #52: Way Down in Cochamo Dec 21, 2020

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RunOut #51: Emily Harrington Has Arrived Nov 27, 2020

Fresh off Golden Gate, Emily Harrington joins us, the unworthy podcast hosts, as we grovel before her feet—still in Alex Honnold’s TC Pros. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #50: Boone Speed Ahead Nov 09, 2020

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RunOut #49: The Diamond (And Crowds) Are in Style Oct 31, 2020

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RunOut #48: God Save the Climate Oct 17, 2020

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RunOut #47 – The Best Story in Climbing Sep 30, 2020

"Free as Can Be" with Jordan Cannon and Mark Hudon; Q-Anon and Black Hills; J-Star's Orbit Crashes Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #46: J-Star and Topo Chico Sep 03, 2020

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RunOut #45: The Life of Christine Boskoff Jul 09, 2020

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RunOut #44: Covid, BLM, and Favia Dubyk Jun 12, 2020

You may feel like these are uncertain times. But one certainty is that we’re living through history. Right now. A historic pandemic and the biggest civil rights movement of this generation. And then there’s climbing, which just sort of feels like the least important thing. In Ulysses, James Joyce writes that history is a nightmare from which I am trying to awake. It seems as if many people are actually, genuinely beginning to wake up this nightmare and speak its name. Wake up to the injustices of our society. Something feels different to me about these protests. A lot of people who might normally shrug their shoulders have been forced to stop ignoring the uncomfortable truths: that we’re living in a system with two sets of rules. One for people with white skin, one for people of color. One for women, one for men. One for the rich, and one for the rest. And that we really need to come together to fix this. This is Andrew Bisharat, and you’re listening to The RunOut. I’m here with my co-host Chris Kalous, and today we’re going to try to unpack this painful, fraught, and historic moment by speaking to one of the most delightful, interesting, and intelligent guests we’ve ever had on our show. That would be Dr. Favia Dubyk. She is a pathologist from Albuquerque who is working on the frontlines of the pandemic. She’s also a cancer survivor, a strong climber, a veteran of American Ninja Warrior, and perhaps most important, she’s a strong voice for climbing, and one of many voices that people in climbing media, such as myself, could always be doing more to amplify. Chris and I really loved this conversation. Please make sure you follow Favia on Instagram since we reference her feed copiously during this show. Her handle is “@felinefavia.” Without further ado, Dr. Favia Dubyk.

RunOut #43: So, Can We Start Climbing Again or What? May 14, 2020

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Runout #42: Climbers in Iso: Kelly Cordes Apr 26, 2020

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RunOut #41: Climbers in Iso: Allison Vest Apr 17, 2020

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RunOut #40: Will Climbing Gyms Survive Covid-19? Apr 09, 2020

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RunOut #39: Will Climbers Actually Stay Home Amid the Coronavirus Pandemic? Mar 19, 2020

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RunOut #38: When Climbers Run for U.S. Senate Feb 27, 2020

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Runout #37: Male-Dominated No More Feb 11, 2020

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RunOut #36: January SnarkDown Feb 03, 2020

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RunOut #35: Breaking Cynicism in 2020 Jan 09, 2020

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RunOut #34: Yosemite Is Still the Center of the Universe Dec 20, 2019

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RunOut #33: What the Times Got Wrong About Climbing Dec 04, 2019

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RunOut #32: Nims Conquers All Nov 21, 2019

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RunOut #31: How Paige Claassen TKO’d Shadowboxing Oct 28, 2019

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Runout #30: Grief is … OK Oct 14, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut 29: Who is the Lord of the Abyss? Oct 09, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #28: Olympic Fever Aug 29, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #27: Climbers Vs. The Man Aug 06, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #26: More is More with Bill Ramsey Jul 15, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #25: Dude, Looks Like a Slaydie Episode Jun 27, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #24: So Long, Supertaco Jun 05, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #23: Offwidths Getting Called Out May 24, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #22: Room to Reproduce with Eric Chabot of Hawkwatch International. May 08, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #21: Jeff Smoot Relives Hangdog Days Apr 27, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #20: Jim Reynolds’ Free Solo on Fitzroy Changes Everything/Nothing Apr 12, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #19: Nanga Parbat and Modern Remote Mountain SAR Mar 30, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #18: Old Skool Chipping Dust-up. Mar 12, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #17: EPIC Michigan Ice Fest Mar 05, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Runout #16: Training Trends With Dan Mirsky Feb 07, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Runout #15: Alpinist Kitty Calhoun of Chicks Climbing and Skiing Jan 19, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Runout #14: What happened in 2018? Jan 12, 2019

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #13: What’s the Future of Bear’s Ears? Dec 29, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Runout #12: A Chip Chace Eulogy Dec 14, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #11: Connor Herson Frees the Nose. Nov 30, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #10: Adam Ondra’s Near Onsight of the Salathe Wall Nov 07, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #9: Mikey Schaefer and the Fourth Wall Nov 01, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #8: Caves, Plato, and the future of adventure Oct 19, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #7: Free Solo Film and the Sweaty Palm. Oct 06, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #6: Olympic Dreaming Sep 26, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #5 Michael Kennedy and the North Ridge of Latok I Sep 15, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #4: Wales, not Whales. Sep 05, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #3: The Tradition of Truth. Aug 12, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #2: A Speed Climbing Paradox. Aug 10, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

RunOut #1: What’s Your Dawn Wall (Movie)? Aug 06, 2018

Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

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