The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Latest Episodes:

EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift Jan 17, 2022

Show notes

Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well as a history of the route and his thoughts on the grade, training for sport climbing projects on his home wall, climbing waterfalls in Japan, and balancing photography and filmmaking with climbing.

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Check out PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, and Jeremiah Johnson

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matty-hong

Nuggets:

0:05:51 – How Matty listens to podcasts

0:08:53 – Growing up in a climbing family, and his connection with his parents

0:13:10 – What his parents have instilled in him as a climber, and keeping the ego in check

0:15:23 – Early milestones in Matty’s climbing

0:18:41 – Loving all of the challenges and variety to be found in climbing

0:20:41 – Second-guessing the path, being grateful for climbing, and having a beginner’s mindset with photography and filmmaking

0:24:43 – Trying ‘Flex Luthor’ for a year, and the history of the route

0:30:26 – Meeting Matty up at the Fortress, and his process on ‘Flex Luthor’

0:40:45 – Patron question from Landolini: How likely is it that Tommy climbed 9b (5.15b)?

0:48:51 – Matty’s thoughts on grading

0:51:55 – Matty’s most memorable climbing achievements

0:53:53 – Climbing waterfalls in Japan with Yuji Hirayama

1:01:31 – Thoughts on adventure climbing, and his trip to India

1:06:19 – Matty’s campus board and home wall

1:09:29 – How Matty trained for ‘Flex Luthor’ on his home wall, and his relaxed approach to training

1:19:46 – Patron question from Adriel: Any tips for using bouldering as training for sport climbing? (And more about his training for Flex)

1:24:02 – Why Matty thinks sport climbing in a gym (vs. bouldering) is a waste of time

1:25:54 – Sport climbing is a strategy-based puzzle

1:28:37 – Goals and challenges

1:31:09 – Patron question from Ben: Do you have any bouldering or trad goals?

1:35:08 – Patron question from One_rocky_boi: How does Matty balance photography and filmmaking with climbing?

1:43:14 – The camera as a gift

1:45:03 – Matty’s proudest photos, and the challenges in filmmaking

1:49:39 – What’s next?

1:54:11 – Nocturne Op 62 No 1 in B (Performed by Matty Hong)

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’ Jan 10, 2022

Show notes

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion project, trying to free climb ‘The Nose’ with Lynn Hill, why failing on the route was a gift, and about softening and leaning into womanness.

*Nina also shared some exciting news in this episode!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:

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Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nina-caprez

Nuggets:

6:39 – Where in the world is Nina Caprez?

9:44 – Nina describes her camping scene in Greece, and finding a new balance between travel and adventure

12:41 – The climbing in southern Greece, and the Andrea Project and bringing climbing to refugee camps

17:31 – Speaking 4 languages, and Nina’s recent Andrea Project in Romania

22:38 – Trying to free The Nose, burning out, and starting the Andrea Project with Jeremy and building the truck

29:20 – Being fulfilled from her new lifestyle, and sharing her passion

32:17 – Why “failing” on The Nose was the best thing that has happened for Nina

36:26 – “It was really time to let go”, and spending 7 days on the wall with Lynn Hill

40:45 – Nina and Jeremy’s vision for the Andrea Project

44:19 – Inspiration, letting goals happen naturally, and complete satisfaction

46:08 – Leaning into different parts of herself as a woman

47:43 – Food guilt, Nina’s natural cycle with the seasons, and listening to her body

52:11 – Using a low carb diet to drop 2kg of weight for The Nose, and realizing it was too much

53:49 – Flirting with the line, and wanting to prove something to someone else

55:27 – Climbing as an escape, guilt and jealously, and softening

59:31 – Question from Steve McClure: How does Nina balance performance with adventure?

1:01:56 – Her first climb at age 13, and growing up in the mountains, and leaving home to evolve

1:04:42 – Living “gypsy style” in France

1:06:41 – Traveling, and some of the places Nina has fallen in love with

1:13:57 – You don’t have to go far away to find an adventure

1:15:04 – Feeling attracted to the East, and wanting to bring climbing to people in need

1:16:50 – How Andrea got its (her?) name

1:17:42 – Another question from Steve McClure: Have you thought about having kids?

1:21:23 – Stories from Nina’s proudest climbing achievements

1:26:51 – Patron question from Randall: What's your process for big walls? Rap in vs. ground up? How do you physically prepare for such an experience?

1:28:36 – Endurance as a strength, not feeling fear, and becoming comfortable living in the vertical space

1:32:24 – “Training” through climbing, and thriving on variety

1:36:49 – “We keep it as a secret…”

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser) Jan 07, 2022

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days, how to continue progressing my V12 and V13 pyramids, how to use bouldering intervals to maintain aerobic capacity for sport climbing, and Steve laid out a hangboard plan to prime my crimp strength for Hueco.

*I recommend listening to Steve’s original episode and my first Follow-Up with him before this episode.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:40:55.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Steve’s Other Episodes:

EP 70: Steve Maisch

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch (the first one, published Sept 9, 2021)

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing Jan 03, 2022

Show notes

Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experiences as a kid, his first road trip to Buoux in France in 1984, how training and sport climbing have changed, how Ben uses the MoonBoard, and much more.

Check out PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, and Robert Freehill

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-moon

Nuggets:

6:02 – Putting a face to the voice, Ben’s travels in the US back in the day, and feeling like he missed out on traveling

9:17 – A dry November in the UK, and Will Bosi doing the first repeat of ‘Mutation’

11:14 – How Ben first started to climb at age 7

14:38 – Being “bitten right away” by climbing, and breaking his wrist skateboarding

16:17 – Flopping out of school and living off the dole and climbing full time

18:57 – Hunter House Road

22:16 – Standards and climbing styles in the early 80s, and training on a brick wall

26:16 – Climbing equipment in 1984

27:53 – Buoux, meeting Jerry Moffatt, and Ben’s first-ever road trip

35:38 – Doing the FA of ‘Statement of Youth’

37:54 – Friendly competition

39:08 – Dreadlocks and punk rock

40:10 – Shifting to bouldering for its own sake

42:32 – From 8a to 8c+ (or 9a) in 6 years… what was happening?

45:28 – The School Room

46:36 – How Ben and Jerry were training in the School Room, how it compares to how people train now, and Ben’s thoughts on deadhanging (hangboarding) and campus boarding

51:00 – How the Moonboard first came to be

56:56 – Moon Climbing as a company

1:00:42 – Patron question from Griffin: Favorite Moonboard hold set? Best for training?

1:02:06 – Patron question from Rebecca: New hold sets coming? Have you thought about circuits?

1:03:28 – Patron question from Karl: Looking back, what would you change about the Moonboard holds or design?

1:05:22 – Why the Moonboard is a vastly more powerful training tool than Ben’s old cellar board

1:07:37 – Patron question from Will: How does Ben use the Moonboard, and what are some of his go-to session formats?

1:12:35 – Bouldering as Ben’s top training priority, and why he thinks variety is key

1:14:11 – How Ben structures his training throughout the year, and within a week

1:17:10 – What Ben and I would each change about our training if we could go back in time

1:21:21 – FA of ‘Voyager Sit’ 8B+ (V14)

1:24:07 – Quitting climbing after ‘Voyager Sit’, and coming back and climbing ‘Rainshadow’ 9a (5.14d)

1:27:59 – Training fitness on the route, and gaining fitness with age, but fighting to maintain strength

1:31:17 – Circuit training at the climbing gym

1:34:30 – Question from Steve McClure: Does Ben feel the age thing yet?

1:38:24 – Ben’s ongoing battle with ‘Northern Lights’, and thoughts on kneebars

1:45:38 – Patron question from Markham: Background on the Mini MoonBoard? Future plans for it?

1:47:07 – Ben’s thoughts on the MoonBoard gades (he thinks they’re hard!)

1:49:24 – How hard Ben climbs on the MoonBoard

1:50:11 – Patron question from Florian: Is the Mini MoonBoard the most relevant board for training for rock?

1:51:41 – Recommendations for people who train on a MoonBoard at home, and future tools that will help

1:54:29 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: What is the definition of Dowsy Fuck? (turns out it was “Dozy Fuck”), and what it feels like for Ben to watch his old movies

1:56:45 – Patron question from Oskar: Where can I watch The Real Thing online? (It’s in the show notes!)

1:57:45 – Patron question from Andreson: Any expedition stories?

1:58:34 – Starting a clothing brand, and getting inspiration from Christian Griffith

2:00:28 – What is Ben’s legacy?

2:02:20 – Which of Ben’s climbing achievements stand out to him

2:02:37 – What’s next for Ben, and unfinished goals

2:03:40 – Where you can find Ben (@moonclimbing on Instagram)

2:03:59 – “Train hard, climb harder.”

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser) Dec 16, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warms up for a 5.14+ project at a remote cliff, what she learned from trying ‘Empath’ 5.15a, how she trained for and projected ‘Dreamcatcher’, getting gratification from the process, learning to celebrate, and updates on crag snacks and more.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:03:25.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Paige's original episode:

EP 24: Paige Claassen

EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes Dec 13, 2021

Show notes

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, dating on the road, my remote working setup, what I’ve learned from nearly 100 episodes of the podcast, and making sense of conflicting advice.

*Treat this episode like a buffet! Listen straight through or jump around as you like. I organized these questions into categories and added timestamps below.

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, and David Lahaie

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Website Links:

Top Lists

Steven’s Favorites

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-4

Nuggets:

0:00 – Intro and updates

7:04 – My Climbing / Training / Goals:

7:14 – Oskar: Tips for night climbing?

14:07 – Taylor: Plans for Hueco round 2?

16:53 – Casey: Hueco tick list? And what about Rifle?

17:57 – Casey: Do you prefer to write your own training programs or to have a coach?

18:46 – Casey: Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering performance? Does it matter?

21:27 – Casey: Do you like night sessions? Is it hard to fall asleep after?

22:52 – Jimmy: Favorite endurance workout on a home wall?

25:43 – Karl: Do you think kneepads change grades?

33:12 – Tim: Do you ever climb easy stuff for fun?

35:44 – Tyler: Party tricks vs. helpful training?

38:14 – Tyler: Dream areas or routes in Canada?

38:55 – Andrew: What makes a limit boulder problem “limit”? What makes a perfect repeat “perfect”?

42:32 – Shanna: What will you implement from the PCC?

46:24 – Jordan: Have you dabbled in trad or multi-pitch climbing?

49:44 – Eric: What is the softest 5.14 in the US? Why aren’t you trying it now?

51:09 – Nolan: How have you moved past plateaus?

53:08 – Nolan: Have you been on JDI yet?

54:35 – Conor: Can you tell us about your early climbing and training? What would you change?

58:20 – RJB: Where are you on your climbing journey?

1:00:57 – Luke: Goals for 2022? How do you go about goalsetting?

1:09:06 – Drew: Did you come back to try The Practitioner? And how did it go?

1:12:55 – David: Goals in Leavenworth?

1:14:37 – Nutrition / Weight Gain:

1:14:45 – Karl: Does starch count as sugar?

1:17:33 – Angelo: I’m embracing my body type and getting stronger, but when will I stop gaining weight?

1:23:15 – Vanlife / Current Lifestyle / Personal Life:

1:23:24 – Tyler/Ethan/Luke: Favorite van features? What did you bring but haven’t used?

1:28:03 – Tyler: Can you describe work station in your van? What is your internet setup?

1:31:50 – Matt: Any mice in the van?

1:32:54 – Jordan: How long have you had your van? Thoughts on dirtbagging now vs. pre-van?

1:34:47 – Michael: Pee bottle tips?

1:36:54 – Logan: Why did you choose your van?

1:39:27 – Howard: Health insurance as a vanlifer?

1:41:53 – Nolan: Have you settled into the lifestyle as a full-time vanlifer podcast superstar yet?

1:43:59 – Desiree: What are some favorite experiences you get to have living on the road? Pitfalls? Tips?

1:49:29 – John: How do you handle long winter nights in the van?

1:50:42 – Alexandra: How is a dating life when living in a van?

1:53:56 – Shanna: Are you living in the van nonstop? Do you think you can do it indefinitely?

1:56:49 – John: Coffee or tea? Method of brewing? Any tats?

1:57:45 – Brian: Vanlife product you just can’t get behind?

1:58:42 – Brian: What have you given up for vanlife that you miss?

1:59:35 – Brian: What alternate life would you be content with?

2:00:41 – Daniel: Do you still play video games?

2:03:26 – Liam: Did you save up money before quitting your job, or say fuck it? Also, what is your climbing story?

2:06:30 – Jonathan: What is your relationship to mindfulness or meditation? How do they affect your life and climbing?

2:10:52 – Fun / Funny / Other:

2:11:00 – Tyler S: Weirdest smell you’ve had in the van?

2:12:03 – Tyler S: Most ridiculous outfit you’ve climbed in?

2:13:27 – Tyler B: Any plans to head out east to climb on southern sandstone? Dream climbing trip?

2:14:49 – Tyler B: Who would you like to spend a climbing with?

2:15:42 – Brian: Other hobbies?

2:17:21 – Brian: Who would you take on a multi-pitch climb?

2:18:18 – Podcasting / What I’ve Learned From Episodes:

2:18:30 – Ryan: You’ve put out nearly 100 episodes—How do you deal with conflicting advice from all of these badass climbers?

2:24:22 – Tyler: If you could collaborate with any podcast, what would it be?

2:25:30 – Tyler: Top 3 podcast guests?

2:26:36 – Finn: What interview do you find yourself organically thinking back to the most?

2:28:23 – Garrett: Has the podcast made you a better communicator? Has it made you more confident when meeting people?

2:31:30 – Wrapup

Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser) Dec 11, 2021

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differences and similarities between his top athletes like Quinn, Melina, Drew, and Sean, keeping training simple, how newer adult climbs can mimic training like a team kid, and finding the important questions in our training and climbing.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:33:49.

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Tyson's original episode:

EP 29: Tyson Schoene

EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos Dec 06, 2021

Show notes

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.

Check out Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condie

Nuggets:

5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart

10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute

11:12 – Kyra’s dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables

13:04 – Allison’s (Vest) role in the broadway scenario

13:42 – Trying other sports, and discovering climbing

15:52 – Patron question from Atlin: If you were to do an Olympic sport besides climbing, what would you want it to be?

17:32 – The variety of climbing as a double edge sword

19:22 – Interest in comps vs. outdoor climbing

23:24 – An X-ray description of Kyra’s back

25:06 – Severe idiopathic scoliosis, getting surgery shortly after finding climbing, and growing 2” overnight

28:27 – Seatbelts and toilet paper

29:39 – How Kyra trains around her back limitation, and how the changes in setting style have forced her to face it head-on

33:30 – Shifting her focus more toward lead, and a recap of Nationals

37:28 – Separating self-worth from results

40:18 – How Kyra feels about her Tokyo experience

46:17 – First Olympian with a spinal fusion (at least as large as hers)

48:12 – The Olympics as a goal

50:23 – Enjoying not having a goal after Tokyo, and star chasing

52:41 – Plans for a non-climbing vacation, and a slight burnout on competitions

53:58 – Being more open about her back as a disability, and being more relatable to others

56:24 – 2024 Olympics?

58:26 – How Kyra’s training changed leading up to the Olympics, and thriving in organized chaos

1:01:40 – How Kyra’s climbing changed from the prep for the Olympics

1:03:28 – Thoughts on speed climbing and psicobloc, and deep water soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett

1:07:18 – Patron question from Liam: Have you always tried to climb fast in lead? Have you tried other styles?

1:09:28 – Training your strengths, and supplementing to address weaknesses

1:12:59 – Adopting Pepper and Pika (Kyra’s cats)

1:15:30 – Martha the robot-vacuum

1:17:08 – Skin and dishwashing gloves, and Kyra’s detergent sponsor

1:19:22 – Cleaning/tidiness quarks

1:21:23 – Sad movies, and looking for movies on Reddit

1:25:08 – Marvel movies, and superheroes

1:26:02 – Other favorite movies

1:27:21 – Going blonde, and new tattoos

1:31:47 – Patron question from Eli: What is your favorite part about your being so deeply ingrained or intertwined with climbing? What is the worst part?

1:36:58 – Patron question from Eli: What do you hope the Olympic experience will bring to the broader climbing community?

1:38:15 – Olympic memories

1:39:14 – What Kyra is most proud of in her climbing career so far, and giving her best

1:41:44 – What’s good

1:43:07 – What’s next, where to find Kyra, and sharing advice on Reddit

1:45:24 – Present focus

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic Nov 29, 2021

Show notes

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14, his love of The Gunks, making old-school climbing films, the support from his dad, and his ongoing goal to develop the bouldering scene in the Northeast.

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/austin-hoyt

Nuggets:

4:30 – Austin’s bouldering stats at age 18, and how he fits climbing in while going to school

8:12 – Some of Austin's typical weekend destinations

9:48 – Favorite areas in the Northeast

11:38 – How Austin started climbing (Ninja Warrior + ice cream shop), and doing V3 his first week

15:11 – Crediting everything to his first coach Charlie, and negative reinforcement

18:41 – Drills and spray wall climbing

23:34 – Climbing at Powerlines, and getting into doing first ascents (FAs)

25:25 – “Chase me”, and what Austin learned from watching his coach Charlie climb

27:25 – Finding new boulders in famous areas

29:17 – The Gunks, and Austin’s Gunkaholics film series

33:40 – The season in The Gunks, and what Austin does when it rains for two weeks

34:44 – Balancing projecting, outdoor climbing for volume, and indoor training

37:15 – The mental battle of projecting, and the first ascent of ‘Flashing Lights’ V14

43:14 – ‘Nuclear War’ V13

45:52 – Filmmaking, and Austin’s film equipment and influence

49:18 – College plans and dreams to make adventure films

52:00 – Plan for a gap year, and comp training

54:42 – Dave Graham

56:18 – How Austin trains power on a spray wall

57:30 – Guidance for setting a spray wall, and the skill of making up hard climbs to train on

1:00:24 – What a spray wall session looks like, and training strengths vs. weaknesses

1:02:28 – Patron Question from Brandon: Do you have any roped ambitions in New England?

1:04:22 – Bouldering vs. trad in The Gunks

1:05:44 – Patron Question from Will: What is your favorite crag north of The Gunks?

1:07:48 – Patron Question from Jack: What is your favorite problem on the Speed Boulder at GB?

1:08:55 – Patron Question from Avery: How did you become the master of vert?

1:11:25 – Austin’s dad, motocross, and broken bones

1:14:13 – How his dad supported him in climbing ‘Nuclear Base’ V14

1:17:39 – Austin’s new project

1:19:18 – Climbing algorithms, “The Formula”, and Austin’s perspective on grades

1:22:36 – The dream of becoming a pro climber, the current goal of developing the Northeast, my experiences in Leavenworth, and making lists

1:26:05 – Applying to colleges near climbing

1:27:07 – Beta Labs, and ideas for building his own business

1:30:54 – Shoutouts to his sponsors

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation Nov 22, 2021

Show notes

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO, putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legacy through route development, his love of projecting, current training approach, fashion influences, creating LOV, and his experience with cancellation and rebuilding a new life.

Check out Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joe-kinder

Nuggets:

6:50 – Clipping chains, Joe’s goals for his trip to Rifle, and the Wicked Cave

11:01 – Putting up routes in mediocre rock

14:54 – The responsibility and reward of putting up routes, and leaving a legacy

18:16 – Establishing vs. FAing a route, and keeping routes open vs. red-tagging

22:14 – “It’s a case-to-case scenario.”

24:55 – Putting up hard vs. moderate routes, giving back, and being surprised by the difficulty of new lines

27:33 – The emotional rollercoaster of projecting, how Joe and I met, and his love of climbing

33:04 – Climbing as a drug addiction

34:57 – My “addicty” behavior, and why Joe finds Jonathan Siegrist fascinating

38:31 – The ebbs and flows, breaks, and comebacks

43:59 – Embracing the plan B’s of life

44:56 – Lessons from finger injuries

49:18 – The Skull Cave, and how ‘Diarrhea Mouth’ got its name

52:29 – ‘Kinder Cakes’, proposing grades, and picking limit projects in your style

58:20 – Breakdown of ‘Kinder Cakes’, the send, and those special moments

1:03:46 – The days after ‘Kinder Cakes’, and needing to work

1:06:16 – Sushi celebration

1:07:25 – How ‘Kinder Cakes’ stacks up against Joe’s other hardest routes, and “we do what we can”

1:09:05 – Joe’s early climbing in New England, and the project-focused approach

1:11:18 – Joe’s first experience with training, and planning his year around the Rifle project

1:13:39 – Getting training ideas from Eric Horst, Patxi Usobiaga, and developing his own program

1:16:37 – ‘Activator’, watching Cam repeat ‘Bone Tomahawk’, and Joe’s year leading up to ‘Kinder Cakes’

1:23:47 – Purchasing strength, Joe’s outdoor vs. indoor balance, and more about the ‘Goonies’ project

1:28:29 – The ‘Bone Tomahawk’ extension project

1:31:47 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 1)

1:41:31 – Training as a callus, and taking your time to build it up

1:41:46 – How Joe trained for ‘Kinder Cakes’ (month 2)

1:44:55 – Thoughts about in-season strength maintenance

1:46:37 – Keeping an open mind, dropping the ego, and lessons from the Spaniards

1:50:10 – “Always try shit.”

1:50:39 – Who Joe looks up to in climbing

1:53:38 – The current era of pro climbing, and how pro climbing has evolved

1:57:01 – Stories, podcasting, and creating balance

2:00:25 – Joe’s movies, LOV as a creative outlet

1:04:55 – How LOV (Life of Villains) got its name, and rooting for the villains in movies

2:07:25 – More about LOV (the brand), and collaborations with non-profits

2:12:07 – Patron Question from Devon: How do you pick athletes for the LOV shirts, and can you make a replica of the Bruce Lee shirt that Josune is wearing in her photo?

2:14:57 – Fashion influences, confidence, my bleached hair, and Joe’s nicknames for me

2:20:42 – Patron Question from Ben: How does Joe’s experience climbing on established routes differ from FA’s?

2:23:02 – Patron Question from Simon: Who has Joe drawn inspiration from outside of the sport of climbing?

2:25:05 – Graffiti

2:28:03 – Joe’s experience with cancelation

2:42:09 – My thoughts about Joe and him rebuilding a new life

2:47:45 – Thanks and an apology

2:48:07 – Gratitude and appreciation

2:50:01 – Support mode, then on to the next