The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt

Chad's Other Episodes:

EP 20: Chad Andrews

EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers Jun 13, 2022

Show notes

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist who specializes in climbing injury rehab and prevention. We talked about freestyle rapping, the most common injuries in rock climbing, how to prevent knee, shoulder, elbow, and finger injuries as climbers, warming up your fingers at the crag, what to do to help your body recover on rest days, and much more.

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:05:00 – J-Rock the hip-hop artist

0:09:58 – Running track in college and getting into climbing

0:11:25 – Getting excited about physical therapy

0:12:24 – Hip-hop parties with grandma, and applying physical therapy to his own climbing

0:14:36 – Becoming “The Climbing Doctor” and writing for DPM

0:17:22 – Overly engaging our shoulders

0:20:56 – Shoulder position for hangboarding

0:23:08 – How has climbing changed, and how climbing injuries have changed

0:26:30 – My (Steven’s) balance of climbing and training

0:28:12 – Balancing training and climbing, and seeing more injuries from training vs. climbing

0:29:33 – Most common climbing injuries (shoulders, elbows, and fingers)

0:31:42 – Exercises for preventing climbing-related knee injuries

0:42:01 – Knee exercises for drop knees

0:47:19 – How to program your knee injury prevention exercises

0:49:04 – Patron question from Tyler: Compound lifts vs. accessory exercises for injury prevention?

0:54:57 – Most common climbing-related shoulder injuries, and why shoulder injuries are difficult to diagnose

0:59:26 – Who to go to if you get a shoulder injury, and what to look for in a physical therapist

1:06:03 – Research on shoulder injuries

1:07:55 – How to prevent climbing-related shoulder injuries

1:11:58 – Resistance Band Rows, how difficult they should feel, and sets and reps

1:16:20 – Pressing exercises for the shoulders, how to fix scapular winging, and flys for elbow pain

1:24:20 – How to prevent finger injuries, hand positions on the hangboard, pockets, and finger lengths

1:29:56 – Torsion on the hangboard, and gaps between fingers

1:34:49 – The rubber band exercise for finger gaps

1:39:26 – Hangboarding as brushing your teeth

1:40:17 – Warming up your fingers for a climbing session

1:45:20 – Grab your finger and shake your elbow

1:48:04 – Warming up to raise the temperature in your hands and fingers

1:50:23 – Warming up with a portable hangboard

1:56:00 – Golfer’s Elbow, and diagnosing other sources of elbow pain

2:04:32 – Patron question from Felix: How do we know when to listen to pain, vs. ignore pain? (Graded Motor Imagery)

2:10:27 – How to diagnose PIP or DIP joint inflammation in the fingers, and recommendations for capsulitis

2:14:45 – Advice for pulley aches

2:16:21 – Patron question from Ana: Thoughts on the long-term effects of bouldering falls?

2:20:55 – Motion is lotion

2:23:07 – Patron question from Shawn: What exercises should we do on rest days to help with recovery? What should we avoid doing on rest days?

2:26:31 – Training and educating other physical therapists, and doing more research on climbers

2:30:32 – Jared’s climbing and rope soloing

2:31:40 – Wrap up

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing Jun 06, 2022

Show notes

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing.

*I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine

0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you

0:13:23 – Being born in 1944

0:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally feminine

0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism

0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 30

0:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan

0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports

0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s

0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters

0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life

0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books

0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city

0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat

0:56:04 – John

0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips

1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences

1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John

1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight

1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 53

1:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?

1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 1968

1:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang

1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health

1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone

1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names

1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up

2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders

2:08:59 – No limits

EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching May 30, 2022

Show notes

Lea Volpe is a paraclimber for Great Britain and a 2x medalist at the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Lea holds down a 9-5 job working in health policy, coaches junior athletes, and is essentially a professional climber on the side. We talked about paraclimbing competitions, being diagnosed with Ataxia, how we perceive wheelchairs, empathy in coaching, and much more.

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Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:04 – Getting over covid

0:08:06 – A normal weekday in Lea’s life

0:11:32 – How Lea recharges her mental batteries

0:14:14 – Balancing an intellectual and sedentary job with the physical activity of climbing

0:16:54 – How most climbers feel guilty for taking downtime

0:18:59 – Lea’s energy reserves, and learning to budget her energy

0:21:28 – An introduction to paraclimbing, Lea’s disability of Ataxia, and strategies she uses to climb around a coordination and balance impairment

0:26:32 – Why Lea uses a wheelchair day-to-day, and climbing with her disability

0:31:33 – Experiencing imposter syndrome as a strong para athlete

0:34:04 – How climbing levels the playing field, and how many of us start at V0

0:36:58 – Failure is part of climbing

0:39:06 – Lea’s life as a kid and teenager, and getting diagnosed with Ataxia and Ehlers Danlos Syndrome in her early 20s

0:44:21 – How Lea discovered climbing

0:46:10 – How we perceive people in wheelchairs, and feeling self-conscious at the climbing wall

0:53:00 – What we can learn from Lea in regards to how we think about disability

0:58:01 – The paraclimbing competition format, and some of the different athlete categories

1:02:04 – Climbing to be in the paraolympics, and classification systems

1:07:03 – How athletes get assessed to determine their classification

1:17:35 – How route setters influence competition outcomes, and setting guidelines in paraclimbing competitions

1:20:47 – Working with a coach vs. being self-coached

1:24:51 – Keeping training sustainable

1:28:49 – What a “bad day” looks like for Lea

1:35:48 – How Lea got into coaching

1:42:24 – What Lea hopes to pass on to the kids she coaches, and the role of coach/teacher

1:48:10 – Having the questions vs. asking questions, and qualities that make a good coach

1:51:40 – Empathy in coaching, and how climbing brings out our deepest and darkest fears

1:56:12 – Inspiration porn and how it can reduce people down to a tool, and how Lea wants to use her platform

2:02:42 – The barriers involved in climbing outdoors

2:13:22 – What’s next for Lea

EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up May 23, 2022

Show notes

Dr. Carrie Cooper is a former professional climber and a doctor of physical therapy. We talked about her background in gymnastics and dance, bouldering in the early 2000s, her path to physical therapy, referencing research in climbing, why climbers should think of themselves as athletes, and the most important things we are missing in our physical training.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:04:56 – Morning rituals

0:07:10 – Audio setups, and presenting at the Tokyo Olympics

0:13:42 – Climbers are athletes

0:16:21 – A day in the life of Dr. Carrie Cooper

0:18:46 – Carrie’s clinic and what she does

0:23:20 – Gymnastics and dance

0:26:27 – Going to school with Danny McBride, and more about dance

0:28:17 – Starting to climb in Sweden, and falling in love with the culture of climbing

0:31:15 – Back injury, finding pilates, and walking away from dance

0:34:33 – The American bouldering scene in the early 2000s, and the small but mighty group of women bouldering in Hueco

0:41:28 – Carrie’s genetics, and what she brought with her from dance and gymnastics to climbing

0:45:20 – Trying to try a little harder, and sneaking up on the boulder problem

0:47:52 – Carrie’s path to becoming a Doctor of Physical Therapy, and what she specialized in

0:52:17 – Patron question from Kaska: How did Carrie’s climbing and recovery compare between her two pregnancies?

0:56:37 – Climbing like honey during pregnancy

1:00:15 – Research that exists in climbing, and Carrie’s philosophy on basing recommendations on empirical evidence

1:06:22 – Age parameters for climbing injuries, and finger injuries in kids/adolescents

1:07:52 – Where do you go to find climbing research, and how relevant is it for athletes?

1:10:29 – Carrie’s pulley classification schema, and applying science to what we are doing

1:14:03 – Knowing what is normal for climbers by referring to research, and why you might not need to jump to getting an MRI

1:17:57 – Relying on trusted practitioners, holding the loudest voices accountable to the research, and drawing inspiration from national teams

1:22:31 – “The clinician is always ahead of the curve.” - Charles Poliquin

1:28:10 – Taping fingers

1:30:10 – My wrist injury, and when to stop using tape

1:32:53 – Retraining movement patterns after a finger injury

1:39:39 – Mobility and a proper warmup

1:45:06 – Warming up your thoracic spine and hips

1:50:21 – Patron question from Alistair: What are common prescriptions Carrie has given national-level athletes?

1:54:06 – Patron question from Shawn: How does Carrie decide when and how much antagonist and mobility work to incorporate for her athletes?

1:56:30 – Undoing the doing, and recovering after climbing

1:58:25 – Minimums: a connective tissue health session

2:01:10 – Discussing Emil Abrahamsson’s results from his “no hangs” experiment

2:07:40 – Keith Baar, and an example Minimums session

2:11:45 – How to do Minimums with a Tension Block or other no hangs grip implement

2:15:38 – How you should feel after Minimums, and how easy it should feel

2:17:02 – Should we be doing Minimums over the long term?

2:18:46 – Patron question from Chris: Compound movements vs. more specific antagonist type exercises?

2:20:40 – Patron question from Katja: How has Carrie kept her psyche and strength up over two decades of climbing at such a high level?

2:22:40 – How our lives dictate what we can do in our training, and “just doing something, is better than not doing something”

2:24:34 – Patron question from Kaska: How did she manage to still boulder hard as a Mom of two?

2:26:25 – Patron question from Kaska: Who are her inspirations in climbing now, and how has that changed over the years since she first started climbing?

2:28:50 – Patron question from Katja: What are some of Carrie’s big dreams for the future (climbing and/or nonclimbing)?

2:31:02 – Overcoming things in the future

2:32:00 – Carrie’s passion project and wrap up

EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast May 16, 2022

Show notes

The tables are turned in this episode! Steven Dimmitt joins Chad Andrews from Clipping Chains to talk about leaving his engineering career to start the podcast, building a craft vs. pursuing a passion, reaching more than 1M downloads, monetization, outsourcing things you hate doing, the glorification of van life, and key climbing principles he has learned from hosting The Nugget.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

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Show Notes:

Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser) May 09, 2022

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Joe Kinder. I sat down with Joe in a cave in Utah to talk about his process for sending his new route ‘Mamajamma’ (5.15a?), what it felt like to send, how he would have trained this summer if he hadn’t sent, favorite workouts for power endurance, plans to try his 5.15b ‘Big Bone’ project, and what I learned from five weeks of climbing with Joe.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:21:47.

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Joe's Original Episode:

EP 96: Joe Kinder

EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods May 02, 2022

Show notes

Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.

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Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa

0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL

0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like

0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip

0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions

0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting

0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal

0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?

0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday

0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up

0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition

0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering

0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet

0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals

0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training

0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)

0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet

0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles

1:00:45 – Jazz

1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility

1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?

1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing

1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training

1:13:58 – Micro edge training

1:15:39 – Contact strength training

1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods

1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?

1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries

1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)

1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?

1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco

1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?

1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)

1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?

1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?

1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from

1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work

1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?

1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places

1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?

1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships

1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics

1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process

1:53:10 – Be present

1:54:39 – Wrap up

EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down Apr 25, 2022

Show notes

Paul Robinson is one of the top boulderers in the world and has been climbing at a V15 level for more than a decade. We talked about building his new house, recovering from neck surgery, his recent diagnosis of autism spectrum disorder, climbing 1000+ V11s or harder, his analogy of climbing as a book, hardest FAs, trying to climb V16, travel routines, filmmaking, and much more.

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Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-robinson

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:06:18 – Designing and building his house

0:10:56 – How Paul got into filmmaking

0:13:10 – Feature films vs. YouTube, and Hueco Dailies

0:15:14 – The Road to Recovery film series

0:17:48 – Paul’s neck injury

0:24:00 – Leg injury

0:26:25 – Being back to 90%, and finding new ways to improve

0:28:09 – Hope, optimism, and a new perspective on finding challenges in climbing

0:32:33 – Going through the stages of grief with an injury, getting older, and hoping to continue climbing at 60 years old

0:35:29 – John Sherman

0:36:32 – Paul’s 8a.nu account, and his goal to climb 1000 boulders 8A (V11) or harder

0:40:38 – Running out of things to climb, and getting psyched on finding new boulders

0:43:14 – What Paul’s drive alive, and his goals for his Hueco trip

0:46:38 – The uniqueness of climbing, being a perfectionist, and seeking mastery

0:49:57 – Climbing as a book, and whether Paul is still getting better at climbing

0:52:24 – Why we don’t often repeat things we’ve done, and Paul’s story about flashing Nagual and repeating it for the Rock Rodeo

0:55:56 – Does V16 feel important?

1:01:41 – How Paul is thinking of training for ‘Box Therapy’ V16, and why Paul tries to maintain a baseline of endurance for bouldering

1:08:36 – Paul’s projecting tactics

1:13:10 – ‘Lucid Dreaming’

1:25:01 – Dave Graham, ’Spectre’, and ’Total Eclipse’

1:30:40 – Patron question from Nick: If you could only climb one boulder for the rest of your life, what would you choose?

1:31:27 – Fontainbleau

1:32:43 – Opening up about being diagnosed with Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), and some of the symptoms Paul experiences

1:38:32 – OCD tendencies, Paul’s outfits, touch, social anxiety, and hyper-focus

1:43:34 – Stuck laying on the couch, and opening up conversations

1:50:35 – Routines that help Paul feel grounded

1:53:53 – Challenging the clothing norms, and decision fatigue

1:59:47 – Paul’s go-to climbing shoes

2:02:37 – Toe hooking, and customizing his Solutions for ‘The Story of Two Worlds’

2:04:29 – Patron question from André: Any plans to try ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17?

2:07:13 – The challenge of living in the desert and trying to climb in humid environments

2:09:33 – Bugalisen

2:10:48 – Patron question from André: Which one of your FA’s do you think is the hardest one?

2:11:58 – Paul’s project in the South Platte, CO, and how he names his boulders

2:13:46 – ‘Karoshi’

2:14:28 – Patron question from Ana: What areas does Paul think have the most remaining potential? Where is the next frontier for bouldering?

2:18:30 – Paul’s favorite rock type

2:20:37 – Patron question from Prithipal: How strong are Paul’s fingers?

2:23:51 – Tiny crimps, and why you don’t need to be able to do one-arm pullups to climb V16

2:26:58 – Meeting Paul back in 2013, and what’s next

Steven's Blog: Mar '22 Apr 23, 2022

Show notes

"Steven's Blog" is now available for Patrons!

In this blog episode, Steven shares a recap of his final weeks in Hueco, and his first two weeks trying a 14a in Utah.

Become a Patron for $10/mo to hear more blog episodes! Plus, it helps out the show!