The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varian

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions

0:10:36 – Dan’s resume

0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness

0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training

0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail

0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK

0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts

0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool

0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps

0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles

0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position

0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results

0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets

0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training

0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results

0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan

0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders

1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing

1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers

1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp

1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do

1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things

1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers

1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training

1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor

1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers

1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau

1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font

1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county

1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation

1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training

1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars

1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete

2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes

2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)

2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers

2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power Sep 12, 2022

Show notes

Alice Hafer is a climber, writer, and coach who specializes in mind power training. We talked about climbing her first 5.14s, her experiences with depression and anxiety and how she changed her own mind through mental training, finding an identity outside of climbing, tips for staying motivated, focusing on effort over outcomes, and using box jumps to train for climbing power.

Listen to more top episodes about Mind/Mindset!

thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists

Check out Petzl!

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out PhysiVantage!

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alice-hafer

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:05:35 – Perfectionism in writing and interviewing

0:09:30 – What Alice learned from her friend Brad Gobright

0:13:05 – Using second-tier routes to stretch our comfort zone

0:14:07 – “Fear is a signal that you are becoming a better climber.”

0:16:45 – Getting covid twice in three weeks

0:18:03 – Setting boundaries for ourselves, and reaching our higher selves

0:20:27 – What expectations are

0:21:05 – Patron question from Ryan: Can you share a favorite story about Brad Gobright?

0:26:51 – Alice’s climbing journey, getting sick after her trip to Madagascar, her dad’s stroke, and carrying emotional weight

0:34:23 – How her relationship with climbing has evolved, and seeing Brad’s passion for climbing

0:37:00 – Pro climbers aren’t always sending, and passion and motivation

0:39:42 – How Jonathan Siegrist stays psyched, thinking smaller within our constraints, and pivoting

0:45:34 – Living in the UK, and being most comfortable with what you spend the most time doing

0:49:33 – “Who am I outside of climbing?”

0:52:31 – Finding a new identity, and Alice’s experience with depression

0:58:35 – Detaching your identity from whatever you are dealing with, and changing your thought and behavior patterns

1:02:42 – Examining the three biggest beliefs you have about yourself, and valuing the climbing experience

1:05:18 – Neuroplasticity, and rewriting our self-beliefs

1:12:12 – Focusing on process over outcome

1:15:55 – Climbing matters

1:18:15 – Exposing yourself to new ideas, and saying “stop” to negative thoughts

1:22:07 – “I have plenty of time.”

1:23:55 – Setting clear and small goals, letting go of perfectionism, and giving ourselves permission to fail

1:36:06 – Awareness, pausing, and intervening

1:41:18 – Struggling with belonging, finding supportive friends, and putting your best effort forward

1:46:03 – The pressure that comes with success, and focusing on becoming a better athlete

1:54:47 – The value in trying hard projects

1:57:42 – How Alice uses goals to give her focus

1:59:10 – What Alice learned from trying Weekend at Bernies (5.14a or b)

2:01:35 – Jonathan Siegrist’s 50:50 split, and why balancing projecting with sending easier routes is important for motivation

2:05:19 – How Alice is training her weaknesses for Weekend at Bernies

2:08:55 – Using box jumps to train power for climbing, and catching holds with a firm body

2:13:01 – Thoughts on campusing vs. fast pull-ups for power

2:15:35 – How little volume it takes to get stronger, and my story with pistol squats

2:16:27 – Mental training for fast results, and how Alice sent her second 5.14 by focusing on effort

2:20:23 – “You quit when you stop learning.”

2:21:40 – Patron question from Fiona: Can we train our mental game? How do we measure progress?

2:25:39 – Everyone needs something different when it comes to mental training

2:26:41 – How to measure mental training progress

2:29:00 – Where to connect with Alice

2:30:43 – Alice’s final advice for listeners

2:36:34 – Feeling like a superhero, and the story of sending her second 5.14

EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers Sep 05, 2022

Show notes

Sam Van Boxtel is a social media expert and the founder of Climbers Crag. We talked about the business side of being a content creator, why Instagram is the best platform for the climbing industry right now, the importance of having a strong “why”, why posts go viral, how to optimize for growth, creating value on social media, playing the game, and the balance between quality and success.

Climbers Crag:

climberscrag.com

Check out Athletic Greens!

athleticgreens.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!

Check out Shortform!

shortform.com/nugget

Use this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-van-boxtel

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:06:57 – Organizing the important stuff, and putting systems in place

0:11:11 – Overview of our conversation

0:13:30 – Soccer, discovering climbing, and losing 20-30 lbs to become a route setter

0:17:14 – Sam’s ability to focus on his goals, and why he got into business

0:20:03 – Moving up the chain with route setting

0:22:20 – How Sam got into social media, and getting 1000+ followers in less than a month

0:24:11 – The business side of being a content creator

0:26:57 – Pivoting from route setting to starting Climbers Crag, and how Sam teamed up with Tom Randall

0:37:03 – What Climbers Crag is today

0:40:41 – The organic next step

0:41:58 – Summary of everything so far, and Climbers Crag’s two main services as an agency

0:45:47 – The Climber’s Crag team, and why Sam reduced the size of his team

0:46:58 – Who this is worthwhile for, and having a strong “why”

0:53:13 – The two categories of individuals trying to grow their Instagram following, and having a clear funnel

0:59:17 – Why I decided to make the Nugget for a year before trying to monetize, and making sure you love 80-90% of what you’re doing

1:01:45 – “Goodwill compounds faster than revenue.”

1:02:19 – Virality and customer surplus

1:06:13 – The sustainability/longevity of the different social media platforms, supply and demand, why reels go viral, and why Instagram is king

1:12:41 – Why Sam pressed pause on TikTok for Climbers Crag

1:18:25 – Real numbers for Instagram growth goals, and where Sam thinks brands should be with Instagram before adding another platform

1:20:22 – Another summary, and using Instagram as a jumping-off point

1:23:05 – Crux Academy, and why Sam tries to talk most of his clients out of trying to grow on YouTube

1:24:54 – My current strategy for The Nugget’s Instagram, balancing viral, brand, and value posts, and having a CTA (call to action) strategy

1:32:17 – Sam’s recommendations for me to grow to 100k followers, and the two factors for growth

1:45:11 – Best practices for resharing content from an ethical standpoint

1:50:08 – Best time of day to post

1:52:15 – Hashtags, optimizing content for growth on Instagram, and removing exit points

1:59:48 – Watchtime and engagement

2:02:08 – Using Capcut for Reels

2:05:09 – Playing the game, and the difference between quality and success on a social media platform

2:12:13 – Hiding the vegetables

2:13:30 – Wrap up and how to connect with Sam

Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser) Aug 31, 2022

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about his recent trip to Spain, sending Event Horizon 5.15b, training on his home wall, his 50:50 rule for projecting, how to train for sustained crux sections on sport routes, thoughts about The Fins Project, plans to move to France, and much more.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:32:46.

thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists

Jonathan’s Other Episodes:

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist (Apr 20, 2020)

EP 36: Climb Strong Team (Sept 21, 2020)

Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist (Nov 12, 2020)

EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers Aug 29, 2022

Show notes

Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.

Listen to more top episodes!

Check out Frictitious Climbing!

frictitiousclimbing.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!

Check out Petzl!

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

Check out PhysiVantage!

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

Check out Arc'teryx!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-gresham

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge

0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high

0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)

0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)

0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders

0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper

0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas

0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve

0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching

0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”

1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game

1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project

1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing

1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy

1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak

1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod

1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?

1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers

1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training

1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training

1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training

1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training

1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount

1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?

1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?

1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on

1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”

1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)

2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training

2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term

2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard

2:11:08 – Thumb crimping

2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally

2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 50

2:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training

2:27:33 – Finding balance

2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)

2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter Aug 22, 2022

Show notes

Dr. Rebecca Williams is a clinical psychologist, performance coach, and the author of Climb Smarter. We talked about the deeper fears that often underlie fear of falling, the underdeveloped self-soothing system, breathing exercises to reduce anxiety, pre-climb routines, meditation and mindfulness, and the benefits of shifting our focus from achievement to mastery.

Climb Smarter:

Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)

Buy from Sequoia Books (best if you are in the UK or Europe)

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

Check out Shortform!

shortform.com/nugget

Use this link to get a free 5-day trial, and 20% off an annual subscription!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/rebecca-williams

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:32 – Kids

0:09:29 – Rebecca’s background in clinical psychology

0:13:04 – Why Rebecca quit gymnastics as a teenager

0:17:55 – How the mental blocks from gymnastics came back to haunt her as a climber

0:20:17 – The deeper fears at the roots of fear of falling, and trust and control

0:24:30 – Why it’s important to know where your fear of falling comes from, and the woman with the worm phobia

0:28:32 – Diving deeper into different fears

0:30:54 – Fear of fear, and learning to tolerate difficult feelings

0:33:14 – Learning to tolerate difficult emotions

0:37:09 – My (Steven’s) own experience with fear of falling when I started sport climbing, and tools for letting go of control

0:44:16 – The overdeveloped drive and threat systems, and the underdeveloped self-soothing system

0:46:32 – “We’re always conquering”, common narratives, and why fear of falling is rational

0:53:16 – Rebecca’s mental warmup, and bringing arousal levels down

0:58:30 – Not wanting to stray from “normal”

1:03:04 – Introducing doubts to our assumptions

1:08:38 – Breathing exercises to bring down arousal and anxiety

1:14:31 – Pre-climb routines, focusing before a send attempt, and mindfulness as an attitude

1:19:16 – Meditation and why it’s useful

1:24:31 – What practicing mindfulness has done for me (Steven) and how it has impacted my life

1:28:14 – “Falling practice is the last thing you do, and not the first thing you do.”

1:30:01 – Does practicing non-attachment take away our drive? And shifting our focus from achievement to mastery

1:33:00 – Why Rebecca decided to write her book Smart Climbing

1:37:05 – The nutrition chapter of the book, and the link between perfectionism and eating disorders

1:43:45 – What Rebecca is currently working on in her own climbing (related to mental game)

1:48:07 – Who the book is for, and where to buy it

1:49:25 – What’s next for Rebecca

1:50:34 – Rediscovering your early excitement for climbing

EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle Aug 15, 2022

Show notes

Ryan Devlin is a television actor, entrepreneur, philanthropist, rock climber, and host of his new podcast The Struggle Climbing Show. We talked about parallels between climbing and being a TV actor, the role of chemistry in dating, how to deal with rejection, progressing from 11b to 12c in a year in his 40s, and biggest takeaways from interviewing top climbers on his podcast.

Listen to more top episodes!

thenuggetclimbing.com/top-lists

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out Petzl!

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

Check out Crimpd!

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

Check out PhysiVantage!

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Feals!

feals.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get 50% off your first order and free shipping!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ryan-devlin

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:15 – My Parent’s Basement Productions

0:09:35 – Junk food

0:12:20 – Returning to the Midwest

0:17:59 – How far Midwesterners commute to climb at the Red River Gorge

0:20:36 – The TV show ‘Are You the One?’, and why you might recognize Ryan in the grocery store

0:30:08 – A question from Allison Vest, and the role of chemistry in dating

0:37:20 – Similarities between the climbing world and the TV/acting world, and creating your own luck

0:43:20 – How Ryan deals with rejection, and building happiness that is not based on outcomes

0:49:19 – Being afraid of falling, Ryan’s first-ever trad lead, and how climbing has impacted his acting (and his life)

0:56:05 – How Ryan got into climbing, and his first day climbing at Tahquitz

1:07:25 – Getting into sport climbing and training in his 40s, and progressing from 11b to 12c in a year

1:16:50 – Early lightbulb moments in Ryan’s training journey

1:23:11 – Getting more days in at the crag

1:29:44 – Why Ryan decided to create The Struggle Climbing Show

1:38:00 – How the pros relate to struggle, and what the rest of us can learn from that

1:48:39 – Drinking from a firehose of information, and letting go of finding “the best way” to train

1:55:21 – Mental game, fear, gratitude, and Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay’s mental approaches

2:00:01 – Hollywood love scenes, and being starstruck by Lynn Hill and Harrison Ford

2:07:53 – Podcasting and community

2:10:17 – Starting a Forest School, and looking at the world through kids' eyes

2:14:56 – Camping, van windows, and blackout curtains

2:18:33 – Vanlife, and climbing with Jordan Cannon and Alex Honnold

2:30:24 – The climbing experience scales

2:31:29 – Ryan’s hopes and dreams as a rock climber

2:37:50 – Ryan’s plans for Season 2 of The Struggle Climbing Show

2:44:30 – Wrap up

EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique Aug 08, 2022

Show notes

Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten are the coauthors of The Climbing Bible. We talked about their careers and proudest climbing achievements, their goal in writing their book, what holds back climbers at different levels, finger strength vs. general strength, mental strengths that separate climbers, strategies for improving technique, and the Play Box vs. the Think Box.

The Climbing Bible:

Buy on Amazon (best if you are in the US or Canada)

Buy from AdventureBooks (best if you are in the UK or Europe)

Check out Frictitious Climbing!

frictitiousclimbing.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!

Check out Arc'teryx!

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

Check out Grasshopper Climbing!

Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-and-martin

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

0:07:56 – Where we’re all tuning in from

0:09:29 – Stian and Martin introduce each other

0:17:14 – What Stain and Martin admire about one another

0:22:43 – Stian’s proudest climbing accomplishments

0:26:29 – Stian’s process of projecting his hardest route (FA of a new 9a)

0:31:04 – A day in Martin’s life

0:33:16 – The pros and cons of being a route setter, and trying to balance route setting with climbing

0:38:24 – Martin’s proudest climbing accomplishments

0:43:31 – Writing The Climbing Bible, and how the book got its name

0:46:40 – Why The Climbing Bible was published as two different books, and how they interact with one another

0:48:58 – Who the books are for

0:52:06 – Question from Rannveig: When coaching, how do you balance the physical, technical, and mental sides of the sport?

0:55:29 – The shortcomings of modern gyms, and the value of making up your own boulders

1:02:09 – Stian’s thoughts on what holds climbers back from breaking into 5.11 or 5.12

1:04:28 – The importance of different physical characteristics for climbing performance, and finger strength vs. general strength

1:12:22 – The 9c test, and the benefits and limitations of physical assessments

1:20:00 – Mental strengths that separate climbers with the same physical and technical abilities, and tapping into aggression

1:29:21 – How Stian and Martin have worked on improving their own technical abilities

1:37:39 – Spray wall training vs. commercial gym sets, and separating strength sessions from technical slab sessions

1:50:00 – Separating indoor and outdoor climbing

1:51:23 – Another question from Rannveig: What are the biggest gimmicks in climbing and training right now, and what old-school methods are the most legit?

1:56:51 – “Never respect grades.”

2:01:03 – The Play Box vs. the Think Box, and the story of Stian’s FA of Eurofighter V13/14 (8B/+)

2:11:06 – What to expect if you buy The Climbing Bible

2:14:49 – We should be movement optimists

2:16:47 – Where to buy the book, and wrap up

Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser) Aug 05, 2022

Show notes

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up is with Matt Fultz. We talked about his recent V16 sends, go-to training sessions on the spray wall, takeaways from his recent finger injury, how he incorporates hangboarding into his week, favorite hangboard protocols, why he does most of his finger training on 20mm edges, why he rarely trains on holds smaller than 10mm, and much more.

Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!

*The full version is 1:04:24.

Matt’s Originial Episode:

EP 39: Matt Fultz

EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner Aug 01, 2022

Show notes

Dorian Evers is an individual and couples therapist in Boulder, CO. We talked about navigating different stoke levels in your relationship, how to create a safe space for your partner to be vulnerable, how to have difficult conversations, common insecurities and fears in relationships, tips for long-distance relationships, vanlife dating tips, and much more.

Check out Petzl!

Or shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!

Check out PhysiVantage!

athleticgreens.com/NUGGET

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Athletic Greens!

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!

Check out Crimpd!

Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

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