Show notes
The gardening with Joey and Holly Radio Show heard weekly March - Oct
Email your questions to Gardentalkradio@gmail.com Or call 24/7 leave your
question at 1-800 927-SHOW
https://thewisconsinvegetablegardener.com/
In segment 1 Joey and Holly go over
- pansies and violas - last until summer's heat fades them. They'll tolerate frost—and even a mild freeze, so don't be shy about planting them early in the spring.
Impatiens - Zones: Grown as annuals (can be perennial in Zones 10-11)
Colors: Variety - Height: 6-24 inches tall
Blooms non-stop from June until frost
Attracts birds
Prefers loamy soil
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged
Best in part or full shade
Cosmos Zones: Annual- Colors: Orange, pink, white - Height: Varieties 18-60 inches tall
Blooms spring, summer and fall
Grows quickly from seed
Helps repel mosquitoes
Prefers well-drained soil, grows well in dry or sandy gardens
Water well, allow to dry between waterings
Should be grown in full sun
Morning glories - Zones: Annual - Colors: White, purple, pink, red, blue varieties - Height: 6 to 15 feet tall
Vine flower
Blooms in late summer or early fall
Readily self-sowing — be careful where you plant
Attracts birds and butterflies
Seeds are highly toxic if ingested
Prefers moderately fertile, well-drained soil
Water weekly during dry periods
Plant in full sun
Nasturtium Colors: Shades of orange, red, yellow, cream - Height: 8-10 feet tall
Quick growing and colorful
Blooms May until September
Edible leaves and flowers
Needs well-drained soil
Water regularly, but don’t over-water
Plant in full sun
Geraniums Zones: 10-11 (grown as an annual elsewhere) - Colors: White, pink, red, lavender, purple, magenta, and rose
Height: 3-24 inches tall
Low-maintenance color from spring until frost
Good for use in window boxes, hanging baskets, containers, or beds
Attracts birds
Thrives in rich, well-drained soil
Watered regularly, but don’t over-water
Prefers full sun/afternoon shade in hot climates
Snapdragons - Zones: Grown as annuals (can be perennial in Zones 5-10)
Colors: White, yellow, pink, red, orange, peach, purple, and violet -Height: 6-15 inches tall
Blooms from spring through fall in cool summer growing conditions
Attracts butterflies
Prefers well-drained soil
Water regularly at the base of the plant
Best in full sun
Marigolds Zones: Annual
Colors: Shades of yellow, red, gold, and mixed Height: 6 inches to 3 feet tall
Blooms spring, summer and fall
Grows quickly from seed
Helps repel mosquitoes
Prefers well-drained soil, grows well in dry or sandy gardens
Water well, allow to dry between waterings
Should be grown in full sun
In segment two Joey and Holly help with growing squash
Squashes growing and problems
Cucurbita
Cucurbita is a genus of herbaceous vines in the gourd family, Cucurbitaceae native to the Andes and Mesoamerica. Five species are grown worldwide for their edible fruit, variously known as squash, pumpkin, or gourd, depending on species, variety, and local parlance, and for their seeds
Full sun no need to start in doors even when the package says to
Summer Squashes Planting Calendar
4-2 weeks before the last frost in spring: start seed indoors for transplanting into the garden later.
2-3 weeks after the last frost in spring: transplant seedlings to the garden.
Squash should generally be seeded directly outdoors, when daytime temperatures are at least 65°F and frost risk is low. Seeds may be slow to germinate or rot before germinating at temperatures below 65° F, and germinate best at nighttime temperatures above 55°F.
Therefore, squash is considered a fruit. Squash isn't the only plant that gets confused for a vegetable. Other fruits frequently called veggies include tomatoes, eggplants, avocados and cucumbers ( 2 ). Since squash contains seeds and develops from the flower-producing part of a plant, it is botanically a fruit.
Vining pumpkins require a minimum of 50 to 100 square feet per hill. Plant seeds one inch deep (four or five seeds per hill). Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills, spaced in rows 10 to 15 feet apart. When the young plants are well-established, thin each hill to the best two or three plants.
The best varieties for squash trellising are delicata, acorn, zucchini, and yellow summer. The smaller squashes and gourds do well but winter squash, like turban and butternut, can become too heavy and large for a successful vertical garden without additional support.
Typically male flowers open first on a squash vine and are joined in about 7 to 14 days by female blooms. Both male and female flowers last for one day. If your squash vine is blooming but no squash are forming, check to see if you have both male and female blooms present.
Blossom End Rot on Squash
Those darken, sunken spots on the very bottom of squash are blossom end rot. It’s so common that veggie growers call it BER for short. It’s not a disease but a symptom of calcium deficiency. It occurs due to uneven watering (wet-dry cycles in soil), too-high nitrogen or root damage. You can eat squash with BER—just cut away the problem area. For a quick fix, treat plants with a calcium spray for BER. Keep soil consistently moist; using mulch helps. Test soil when the growing season ends. Amend as needed.
Wilted leaves if it is hot and mulch but it can also be a Problems with the vine borer moth
Powdery Mildew on Squash Leaves
Late in the growing season, a white powdery substance often starts to appear on squash leaves. This is powdery mildew, a fungus disease. Once the disease starts, spraying fungicides controls it, but can’t cure it. Many other plants, including bee balm, lilac and garden phlox, also get powdery mildew and create a source of infection. Homemade prevention strategies, like spraying plants with diluted milk or baking soda, have university research behind them but require faithful application before any mildew appears.
In Segment three Joey and Holly welcome Their guest author Jessica Walliser https://www.jessicawalliser.com/
Jessica Walliser is an author, garden blogger, columnist, and all around horticultural and botanical enthusiast. She lives in Pittsburgh, PA with her family.
1. Most people know bees are endangered, other than planting flowers and flowering plants, what are some ways to help bees?
2. In your newest book, Plant Partners - Science Based Companion Planting Strategies, you talk about the actual science behind true companion planting, what was the most surprising or unique companion planting technique you've learned while writing this book?
3. Many of us have heard of polyculture and its increasing plant biodiversity - does companion planting do the same? Is it a similar science?
4. What are some well known good bugs most people would have in their garden? How can more of those good bugs be attracted?
5. Many people struggle with keeping their containers watered, especially during the peak of summer, what are some good irrigation/watering techniques for containers?
6. How can we find out more about you?
Is segment four Joey and Holly answer gardeners questions
Greg from IL writes in who listens via podcast Hi! Love the show, it has been super helpful! Last year was my first year gardening, this year I am trying to start many of my plants from seeds. I have some pink plume celery started, they are in nutrient dense soil, are in a tray that waters from the bottom, they are under a grow light for 16 hours per day and I have a floor fan blowing on them. Many of the seedlings are still falling over! The light is probably 4 inches above the seedlings. What could be the cause of them not doing well? Thanks!
Thank you for your email and the kind words about the show we are happy that the show has been helpful for you. Based on your description of the situation my initial thought is that the plants are experiencing a disease called dampening off this is when the plants grow A few inches and then fall over at soil level and die off.The main cause is to much moisture. I would allow the soil to dry out much more than you are allowing it too. Also sprinkling cinnamon over the soil to help prevent the damping off.
Q
My wife and I work together on Tuesday and Saturday . We listen to you on our way to work. We are looking for an accurate PH meter for testing our garden beds and lawn areas. We bought a 110 year old house four years ago and we are looking at improving the lawn for greener grass and garden beds for flowers only. We only plant perennials. There is way too much animal life for outdoor vegetables and we both work two jobs. All of the reviews we have read suggest that there are no accurate PH meters for any price and the testing strips are just as bad. They suggest that you send the soil samples to a university for testing. Is this your experience as well? Love your show!
To get the most accurate data sending samples off to a lab is the best either from your local university or we also suggest https://www.mysoilsavvy.com/online-store/Soil-Savvy%E2%84%A2-p117274169
Your university may be cheaper to do soil testing. That said once you get that information you have a baseline in which you can buy a ph meter yes the cheap ones do give you a reading not as reliable as the more hi tech ones. You get your results from the lab then you can take your ph tester and test the ph to see how far off your meter is or is not. Then you know next year or the next time you can use your meter and know it is let's say +.2 off of what a lab result would be. so if the meter read 7.2 you know it is right around 7.0
Getting a baseline from a soil test then using a ph meter and knowing the Accuracy range based on the soil test we think is the best way to go then the meter can be used over and over.
A soil test from a local university from multiple areas of the yard would be the best accuracy. Choose where you’ll be putting perennials and also the lawn, test those areas. PH meters can be helpful, but a soil test itself is more accurate.
Q So, you CAN rutabagas in the spring? How soon? I just got some seeds and it's the end of Jan, can I still plant these seeds and get rutabagas this spring? That would be AWESOME!"
A:Yes you can plant them as soon as the soil warm up enough in your area
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