Show notes
The gardening with Joey and Holly Radio Show heard weekly March - Oct
Email your questions to Gardentalkradio@gmail.com Or call 24/7 leave your
question at 1-800 927-SHOW
https://thewisconsinvegetablegardener.com/
In segment 1 Joey and Holly talk about how to growing the best tomatoes
Plant tomatoes deep
Remove lower leaves
Mulch
Corn meal
Consistent watering
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Keep lower leaves removed
Remove suckers?
Dealing with tomato hornworm
When to harvest?
In segment two Joey and Holly go over how to know if you have a good or bad
nematodes
Often referred to as roundworms, nematodes are not closely related to true worms. They are multicellular insects with smooth, unsegmented bodies. The nematode species that feed on plants are so tiny that you need a microscope to see them. The adults often look long and slender, although some species appear pear-shaped. These plant parasites are not the same roundworms as the filarial nematodes that infect the human body, spread diseases, and wreak havoc on the immune system.
Some nematodes feed on the outer surfaces of a plant while others burrow into the tissue. Soil-dwelling nematodes are the most common culprits, but some species can damage plant roots, stems, foliage, and flowers.
No matter where they feed, these tiny worms can seriously damage to crops with their sharply pointed mouths by puncturing cell walls. The real damage occurs when a nematode injects saliva into a cell from its mouth and then sucks out the cell contents. The plant responds to the parasitic worms with swelling, distorted growth, and dead areas. Nematodes can also carry viruses and bacterial diseases inject them into plants. The feeding wounds they make also provide an easy entrance point for bacteria and fungi.
Beneficial nematodes that enrich the soil may feed on the decaying material, insects, or other nematodes.
Being slender and transparent, they cannot often be seen by the naked eye. Other groups of worms may be confused with nematodes. ... With a few exceptions, if you can see an organism, with the naked eye, it is not a plant-parasitic nematode.
Most nematodes are harmless, but a handful of troublesome species attack the outside surfaces of plants, burrowing into the plant tissue and causing root, stem, folar and even flower damage. Other nematodes live inside the plants for part of their lives, causing damage from the inside out
Are nematodes harmful?
While most of the thousands of nematode species on Earth are not harmful, some cause diseases in humans and other animals or attack and feed on living plants. ... Luckily, there are ways to deter these pesky pests from disrupting your garden soil
Beneficial Nematodes are microscopic, non-segmented roundworms that occur naturally in soil throughout the world. Inside the nematode's gut is the real weapon — beneficial bacteria that when released inside an insect kill it within 24 to 48 hours
ADD good nematodes
The solution can be applied using a watering can, Hose End Sprayer, backpack or Pump Sprayer or through irrigation or misting systems. Mix nematodes into water and gently agitate. Apply when the sun is low on the horizon as the nematodes are photophobic and do not like direct light.
What To Look For for bad nematodes
Typical symptoms of nematode damage can appear above and below the ground in foliage and roots. Foliar symptoms generally appear in the form of stunting of plants, premature wilting, and leaf chlorosis (yellowing). Plants displaying these symptoms generally occur in patches rather than showing across an entire field, following the usual irregular distribution of nematodes in fields.
Under heavy nematode infestation, crop seedlings or transplants may fail to develop, maintaining a stunted condition, or die, causing poor stand development. Under less severe pressure, symptom expression may be delayed until later in the crop season after a number of nematode cycles have been completed. In this case, the above-ground symptoms may not be as readily apparent.
Root symptoms caused by sting or root-knot nematodes can present very noticeable symptoms. Sting nematodes can form a tight mat of short roots that often assume a swollen appearance. New roots are generally killed by heavy infestations of the sting nematode.
Root-knot nematodes are characterized by the swollen areas on the roots called galls. Galls may range from a few swellings on roots to extensive areas covered, which are caused by exposure to multiple and repeated infections.
Beneficial nematodes can be a great alternative to chemical pesticides, and a very effective addition to Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programs. However, beneficial nematodes are living organisms and using them for pest control does require accurate information, proper storage and shipping and careful application
1
Remove all vegetation from the area. Wet the soil
, then cover it with two sheets of clear plastic to raise the temperature in the soil
and kill the nematodes. Dig the edges of the plastic about 6 inches into the soil
to keep it in place and hold in the moisture. Place the plastic during the hottest months of the summer, and leave it in place for four to six weeks.
2
Plant cool season crops rather than warm season crops. Nematodes are less active in the cooler months, so there is less chance they will damage plants. Plant nematode-resistant plants all year long to limit damage. Nematode resistance is indicated on the seed or plant label.
3
Amend soil
with plenty of organic matter prior to planting. Till or dig the organic matter several inches into the soil
. The organic matter will help suppress the nematodes and keep them from causing as much damage.
4
Keep contaminated areas of the garden
from spreading. Do not move plants from infested areas into clean areas. Water infested areas separately so the runoff doesn't get into clean areas. Clean gardening tools with alcohol between uses to keep from transferring nematodes on the tools.
5
Water your plants frequently; don't let them dry out. Plants are more susceptible to nematodes if they are stressed from lack of water.
6
Allow the planting bed to lie fallow for one or two seasons. Water the planting area and keep it moist so the nematode eggs will hatch, but keep the planting zone free of weeds and other vegetation. If the nematodes hatch and have nothing to eat, they will die.
7
Remove plants and dig up the roots at the end of each growing season to remove the nematodes' food source. Dispose of the plant matter. Till the soil
after removing the plants to dry the soil
and expose the nematodes to sunlight, which kills them. Till the soil
again every few weeks to dig up more of the nematodes and expose as many as possible before the next planting season.
Beneficial Nematodes hunt down, penetrate, and kill most soil dwelling pests. They will remain effective for about 2 years, but annual applications are recommended. They will also attack over wintering adult insects, pupae, diapausing larvae, and grubs when they are in the soil, bark, or even ground litter.
In segment three Joey and Holly welcome their guest Kelly D. Norris is one of the leading horticulturists of his generation. He is an award-winning author and plantsman and has a new book out - New Naturalism. https://kellydnorris.com/
1. You have a passion for planting more natural plants - we have a lot of listeners who have small spaces and need to grow in pots - is there a way to grow in containers with more prairie or meadow style plants and have it look pleasing and not out of place?
2. A lot of people are buying houses right now and will often get a bunch of perennial plants with that house - I know many people feel bad if they want to change up the plants, or get rid of them and start fresh - why should people change their landscape of they want to - and what are some good classic perennials they should consider keeping?
3. You have a new book out this year - New Naturalism - can you tell us about something interesting or notable in the book and why our listeners would enjoy checking it out?
3b. If someone wants to add more wild or natural looking plants to their landscape but has a more neat and tidy aesthetic - what are some tips to change it up a bit but not have it look too much like a wild prairie?
4. I love botanical gardens and know attendance was up at many of them over the last year - for those who enjoy them, what is the best way to get the most out of your visit to them?
5. You have a whole book about bearded irises - A Guide to Bearded Irises - what are some great reasons to grow them? And why should our listeners check out that book?
6. How can our listeners find out more about you?
In segment four Joey and Holly answer gardener's questions
Q: Can old tires be used as raised beds?
A: Most scientific studies thus far suggest that most of the health issues regarding tires arise when they are burned,Despite the fact that the EPA and Center for Disease Control have not found statistic links to health hazards from either intact tires or "crumb" products, studies are still underway and officials acknowledge that more data is required.many reputable organic gardening sources, such as Mother Earth News cautions against growing edibles in tires as a long-term practice. As they age, rubber tires do break down and release the same metals and chemicals that are known to be an immediate problem when tires are burned. However, this is an extremely slow process. The fact that tires break down so very slowly is why they pose such a notable problem in the environment, and it takes many decades for a tire to fully break down into its toxic components. Still, the process is underway to a small degree all the time.
Q: Can you please advise me on what to put under trees. I did bark and landscape material under it as weeds grew through. I now planted ground cover under pictures I will send.
Is this ok ???
Also under trees grass will not grow. Do I just plant ground cover?
What are good green beans to plant? I don't want the flat pods. They were tough last season.
Thanks for your program.
A: Ground cover under your tree works well.
Blue lake pole or bush beans are a great green bean - round and flavorful!
Q: Looking to grow watermelon. I have failed many times, usually just end up with a small unripe melon. I am in zone 4b, is it too late already this season? What is the best method for actually getting to eat some? I am willing to try anything, but most of my growing is in a traditional garden bed.
Thanks,
A: Thank you for your question. a large watermelon in zone 4 and 5 where our gardens are located is near impossible. However several years ago we were able to grow and harvest a watermelon. It was a cream-of-Saskatchewan watermelon, we grew it in a straw bale. Saskatchewan watermelons are a white-fleshed round watermelon (5-10 lb.). Thin, brittle, pale green rind with dark green stripes. Flesh is very sweet with excellent flavor. One of the best home garden varieties for short season climates.
Q: What was the product you mentioned on your show Sunday April 11th to get rid of Japanese beetles and grubs.
A: Phyllom Bio products http://www.phyllombioproducts.com/
How do you prepare Jerusalem artichokes? I'm not sure I even know what those are! ?
A. We put them in roast and bake them , you can eat them raw, we also cut them in thin chips, coat them with oil and air fry them as chips. They have a nutty and savory earthy like a cross between an artichoke heart and the best potato you've ever had. I would find someone who grows then to taste before just growing them to make
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