Shop Talk Live - Fine Woodworking

Latest Episodes:

STL195.5: Scott Landis of Greenwood Global Aug 09, 2019

Show notes

For more than 25 years GreenWood has worked with artisans in Honduras and the Peruvian Amazon to produce high-quality wood products from well-managed forests. They train woodworkers to use appropriate tools and technologies, and connect their products to good markets.

The GreenWood Carver's Mallets are available at LeeValley.com.

Support GreenWood's efforts by heading over to their GoFundMe page.

The Workbench Book by Scott Landis

STL195: New Tools From AWFS in Vegas Aug 02, 2019

Show notes

Rollie Johnson and Justin Fink join Tom, Barry, and Ben to discuss new tools being shown at the AWFS fair in Las Vegas

STL194: New-Fangled Finishes Jul 18, 2019

Show notes

Danish Modern Desk with Tim Rousseau

Question 1:

From Devin: Over the years of listening to your show, reading Fine Woodworking, and watching instructional videos, I've heard a million different suggestions for how long to let a glue-up sit before you take the clamps off. Ranging from "a little while" -whatever that is?- to overnight, and everything in between. Do you guys have any good rules of thumb for drying time?

Question 2:

From the Fine Woodworking forum by forum member NewAndGreen: I'd like to apply a water based topcoat to two white oak chairs I've sanded. I was interested in using General Finishes water-based topcoat, but don't know if I should go with the flat or the satin finish. I have read that GF's satin is shinier than most. Is that true? (I put a coat of Minwax Satin Polycrylic on one and liked the look, but I'm looking for a better product .) I know I don't want to start mixing. (I've already over-complicated the process!) I also know I don't want a glossy look and not a totally matte look. Ugh. Pictures of two parts of chair attached for reference. Thanks in advance for your advice/thoughts to this new and green refinisher!

Question 3:

Also from Paul: I have not heard Rubio Monocoat or Osmo mentioned on the podcast. Have any of you tried Monocoat? Being in the industry professionally myself, and, seeing what other pros are using, Monocoat and Osmo seem to be the two go-to products that many professionals use as their primary oil finish (they're like the BMW and Mercedes of woodworking it seems). Any experience and/or recommendations there?

Price of Osmo Polyx Oil at time of broadcast: .75-Liter=$58.56

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique of All Time

Mike: Tom McLaughlin's "cut some off and glue it on the other side" technique

Anissa: Steve Latta's hinged flips stop

3 Handy Stop Blocks

Ben: Using metal files to shape difficult woods

File Joints for a Perfect Fit

Question 4:

From Brendan: I can't draw by hand at all. Not even a little. My 3rd grade drawings look every bit as good as my current attempts. On STL180, you talked about design for about 30 minutes without mentioning cad as a design medium. I know it's a scary topic but as a resolution at least one of you should try to design a furniture piece down to the jointery on your computer. The learning curve can be steep but I find that designing on the computer allows me to virtually build the piece without creating any sawdust.

And from Paul: I don't know that I've ever heard Fusion 360 mentioned on the podcast. I used Sketchup for several years and loved it… however, a few years ago a landed a very complicated project (with cnc work involved), and came to the realization I needed something more sophisticated. Fusion 360 is now such a huge part of my business and can't imagine ever going back to Sketchup. Having parametric capabilities now seems absolutely necessary. Have any of you ever tried it?

Design - Click - Build

Recommendations:

Anissa - Ted Talk - Rives: The Museum of Four in the Morning Ben - The Woodworkers Podcast and luthiery podcast Omo

Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking's biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

STL193: Pocket Screws vs. Dominos Jul 05, 2019

Show notes

Start Woodworking Season 1 by Matt Berger, Asa Christiana

https://www.finewoodworking .com/videoworkshop/2019/07/start-woodworking-season-1

Question 1: From Dan: I recently built a pair of desks featured in issue #270. I built them mostly the way Michael Robbins did, however instead of using a domino to construct the top I used pocket screws. I don't own a domino, I opted for a hollow chisel mortiser, and I thought it would be silly to use a hollow chisel mortise. How do you feel about pocket screws versus slip tenons made with a domino? Both tools make joining pieces of wood much simpler. One uses screws, the other uses wood and glue. One is under $100, and the other is over $1000. They are both faster and easier than traditional joinery. Am I wrong to think if I am not going to use traditional joinery pocket screws and domino slip tenons are interchangeable? I love my hollow-chisel mortiser, and if I'm gonna cheat on it, I'll just use screws.

Biscuit Joinery Tips and Tricks Learn how to harness the full potential of your biscuit joiner in Part I of our two-part series By Asa Christiana Simple Cabinetry with Pocket Hole Joinery Low-cost jig produces basic cabinetry joinery that's easy and strong By Asa Christiana

Question 2: From Chase: I was trying to edge-joint two 10-ft. long boards to make a wide shelf for our closet using a #7 handplane. Typically, I clamp the boards together and plane the common glue edge until I get an even shaving across both. I think that the length of the two boards meant there was some variation that the #7 didn't get. I can't imagine trying to joint these on a jointer, even if I had one. How would you go about making this glue up work?

Jointing Boards for Dead-Flat Panel Glue-Ups Even if your jointer fence is out of square, this simple tip will ensure perfect edge joints By Michael Pekovich

Segment: All-time favorite tool of all time… for this week Mike: An Exacto knife with a brand new blade Asa: Cordless Trim Routers Ben: James Mursell Travisher (@windsorworkshop)

Build a Simple Stool Fast, fun approach to making a comfortable, casual seat By Fabian Fischer #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue

Question 3: From Chad, I was just listening to episode 190, and a listener asked about which big tool to buy next, a combo planer/jointer or a band saw. I've heard similar questions on the show before. I'm curious as to why you never mention the idea of investing in a makerspace, shared shop, or tool library? There are a lot of great examples of makerspaces that give access to fully stocked wood and metal shops for a reasonable membership fee as well as not-for-profit tool libraries that are usually state funded just like normal libraries that allow for the borrowing of tools like books! For someone who's just getting started in woodworking getting access to a full woodshop for a membership fee that wouldn't be enough to buy a single quality power tool might be worth considering! Maker Spaces:

Tool Libraries:

Question 4: From David: I am planning to build some outdoor chairs out of mahogany, and was wondering what finish to apply. I would like something that I don't have to touch up every year. Or, should leave them unfinished. How does mahogany age in the weather?

Torture Test for Outdoor Finishes We sent five types around the country and found one favorite By Tom Begnal #205–May/June 2009 Issue

Recommendations:

Ben - YouTube Channel: arboristBlairGlenn Mike - Asa's book - Handmade: A Hands On Guide Asa - www.instructables.com

STL192: Learning To Cut Dovetails Jun 21, 2019

Show notes

Dovetailing episodes from Chris Gochnour's Enfiled Cupboard Video Workshop:

Ep 4a: Case Dovetails – Tails Ep 4b: Case Dovetails – Pins Ep 4c: Handcut Rabbets and Dovetail Fitting

Video: Chris Becksvoort–The Dovetail Master

Question 1:From Jerrud: I'm making a dresser that is 72" long, 18" deep and 24" high not including legs. For a dresser this size–or any deep piece that is dovetailed–is seasonal wood movement a concern? Plain sawn lumber is cheaper than rift or quartersawn.

Question 2: From Christian: I'm lucky enough to be expecting my first child, a baby boy, and I've always liked the idea of giving him a Lie Nielsen No 1 as a christening present. Recently, someone has suggested it a novelty tool and will be useless to him when he grows up. What alternative premium tools would you suggest as a christening gift?

Question 3: From Mike: I'm building up my skills slowly by adding one new skill to each project I take on where I can. I want to try my hand at dovetails one of these days as that new skill. I have two questions:

There are a ton of ways I see people doing them. Is there a method you recommend people start with? You recommend people learn to sharpen by picking one method, and sticking with it until you're good at it. Would the same apply to dovetail methods, or should you try a bunch of ways and then go with what you find out you like doing?
Should I start with practice joints on scrap wood or incorporate them when I'm actually making a project so there's more at stake and I have to take it more seriously?

Half-Blind Dovetails Cut by Hand

By Christian Becksvoort #250–Nov/Dec 2015 Issue

The craftsman's calling card

Don't Fear the Hand-Cut Dovetail (Part 1)

By Christian Becksvoort #238–Jan/Feb 2014 Issue

For the first time, a modern master reveals every step of his system

How to Cut and Fit Perfect Dovetail Pins (Part 2)

By Christian Becksvoort #239–Mar/Apr 2014 Issue

Scribe the tails accurately and the rest is simple handwork

Hand-Cut Dovetails, Accurate and Fast

By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue

A tip from a tails-first guy

My Favorite Dovetail Tricks

By Christian Becksvoort #171–July/Aug 2004 Issue

Five ways to increase accuracy and reduce the time it takes to execute this hand-cut joint

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

Barry: Using blue tape as a shim
Ben: When you're done cutting an odd angle, cut it one more time on a piece of scrap so you can recall the angle
Mike: Full-size mockups

Question 4: From Yves: I have just made my first checkerboard (walnut and maple) inlay strip which is intended for a cherry end table top. When sanding, the strip cracked along its length and I discovered that I had done a poor job of the clamping. The cracked section, which is about 4-5 inches long on one side of the checkerboard strip appears to have "lifted" during clamping and there is now an air space under the crack. Any suggestions that might help to save this? I thought perhaps trying to inject some glue under the crack to fill in the space using a needle???

Question 5: From David: I've recently had the opportunity to revamp my shop and am planning to build a Matt Kenney's monster workbench. I've bought the plans, and watched the videos, but I don't see how the top is fastened to the stand? Is there something I'm missing? Is it supposed to just sit on top?

Question 6: From Dave: I love books but dislike most book covers - they're generally too visually noisy! I feel like my living space is full of loud colorful ad copy, or like I'm in a chain bookstore. Do you have any recommendations for ways to keep books in the home that would allow you to conceal the visual clutter? Really, I'm just asking for permission to make a bookcase hidden-door that spins around.

4 Ways to Make Panels Pop

Doors are dominant on most cabinet designs, so dressing up door panels is an easy way to make furniture stand out.

Recommendations:

Barry - Get a camelback for hiking

Ben - Yeti 18-oz. Rambler Bottle with MagDock Cap

Mike - DFM A2 Steel Dowel Plate by DFM Tool Works

STL191: A Jointer Worth Traveling For Jun 07, 2019

Show notes

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village's cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information.

Question 1:

From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me.

Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue

Question 2:

From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?).

The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw

Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke

The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue

Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line

Question 3:

From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why?

Recommendations:

Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike - Get a Soda Stream

STL190: Assembling a Lumber Stash May 24, 2019

Show notes

Become a Fine Woodworking Unlimited member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here.

Question 1:

From Tom: I'm now semi-retired and finally have the time to create a decent wood shop. I've moved to the Florida panhandle, where there are few hardwood dealers. In late May, I'll be in Tennessee so I intend to stop in at a hardwood dealer/mill near Nashville. Given the projects on my to do list I'll be picking up walnut, cherry, and ash. I also have my eye on black locust (for a picnic table), popular, box elder (table legs and aprons), and catalpa (ditto). Given the list of woods on the dealer's inventory list, I feel like a kid in a candy store. Perhaps too much like a kid in a candy store. I'd be interested in your collective wisdom about how one might go about stocking a new shop with wood, especially given the fact that the nearest hardwood dealer for a hobbyist is 5-6 hours away (Atlanta) and I don't drive through Tennessee regularly enough to stop in at a dealer or mill whenever I need something (they are about 11 hours away). Y'all are fortunate to live where you do from a woodworking perspective, but I'll take our weather over yours … I have lemons and tangerines on the trees in my front yard. :-)

Question 2:

From Richard: Have you ever heard of hollowing the backs of western chisels? To speed the process of flattening the back of a chisel, my buddy first hollows the center to a depth of about 1 or 2 thousands of an inch with a dremel sanding flap attachment . The edges and toe are not touched by the sander. My buddy says that because the hollow is so slight, it is as easy to re-flatten the back and establish a new flat spot as it is to re-establish the cutting edge of a worn Japanese chisel.

Here is the video that Anissa mentions, which she now admits he obviously had running in the dremel

Segment: Smooth Move

Ben: Drilling a depth-indication hole on the wrong side. Barry: Trimming the horns of a frame and panel too soon. Anissa: Forgetting that two years ago she grain matched the tops of three cabinets, then ignoring the grain match while fitting the cabinets with drawers.

Question 3:

From Jesse: I've recently started the journey into furniture making. I have a sliding miter saw and a very old table saw that is only good for rough cutting. I'm looking to purchase a band saw or jointer/planer combo. I only have room for one and only 110v availability. I am using hand saws and hand planes to do most of the dimensioning of my lumber. For a beginner, who has limited space and time in the shop, would a band saw or jointer/planer be more advantageous? I'd appreciate any guidance you can offer to ensure my next big purchase is a wise choice and will be the most practical.

Recommendations:

Ben - Prismacolor Premier Pencil Sharpener Barry - Kettlebells for holding panel glue ups flat Anissa - A rock

STL189: Nancy Hiller, Chris Becksvoort and Vic Tesolin May 10, 2019

Show notes

Guest 1: Joe Taylor - Director of Sales for Rikon Joe gave us the ins and outs of a few of Rikon's new products

Model 10-326DVR: 14″ Deluxe Bandsaw with Smart Motor DVR Control

Blade Speed – Variable from 100 RPM (45 SFPM) to 2,375 RPM (4400 SFPM)
Continuous Torque – 1.75 HP will never slow down producing a beautiful/smooth cut
Safer Operation – Fast electronic braking and load spike detection
Patent Pending – Spring Loaded Tool-less Guide System
Effortless Cutting – Fifteen suggested speed settings for wood/metal/plastic plus one custom range

Joe shared some exciting news about the Model 70-800: 4-Piece Woodturning System

Guest 2: Nancy Hiller

From Jim: In terms of their aesthetic value, is there a line for you between fine furniture and cabinetry?

From Jeff: If you could only design, or build, which would it be and why?

Free Plan: Architectural Wall Cabinet Arts and crafts maker presents a fresh twist on a period design by Nancy R. Hiller #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue The Pro's Corner Professional woodworkers sharing the information, for professional woodworkers new and old

Guest 3: Christian Becksvoort

From Scott: What are your top five records at the moment?

From Josh: What Shaker element do see reproduced poorly in modern versions of the classics?

From Erick: What finish are you using on most of your pieces, polyurethane or oil? And why?

A True Oil Finish Nontoxic and easily repaired, this traditional finish is still worth considering by Christian Becksvoort #152–Nov/Dec 2001 Issue The Classic Shaker Style Discover the difference between the masterful and the near-miss by Christian Becksvoort #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue

Guest 4: Vic Tesolin

From Kevin: What aspects of woodworking do you see most newer students totally over think?

From Steve: Awhile ago, you posted a video of a tattoo that had leaves representing your favorite woods to work with. For those of us who are crap at identifying tree leaves, what are your favorite woods to build with?

4 Planes for Joinery Get perfect dadoes, grooves, rabbets, and tenons in no time By Vic Tesolin #246–Mar/Apr 2015 Issue 7 Questions with Vic Tesolin Simple really, we ask Vic questions, and he answers them

STL188: FWW Live Pregame Show Apr 26, 2019

Show notes

Question 1:

From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods as shown on Rough Cut. Where can I get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. He always has great ideas that are very valuable.

The Whiteside router bit Mike mentions can be found here

Question 2:

From Madison: I was wondering how long it took Mike to build the tea box featured in magazine issue 269.

Dovetailed Tea Box by Michael Pekovich #269–July/August 2018 Issue

Segment: Ben: Steam bending everything!

Question 3:

From Matt: How would someone go about preparing kumiko strips without a tablesaw or drum sander?

STL187: Desert Island Dream Projects Apr 12, 2019

Show notes

Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin's serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat?

Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available. However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make?

A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue

Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique

Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups

Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane

Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece

Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue

Question 3: From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time.

Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana

Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, "I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...". If you're making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw. Keep up the great work, see y'all at FWWlive!

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