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    Hobbies

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Starting in the wonderful hobby of Amateur or HAM Radio can be daunting and challenging but can be very rewarding. Every week I look at a different aspect of the hobby, how you might fit in and get the very best from the 1000 hobbies that Amateur Radio represents. Note that this podcast started in 2011 as “What use is an F-call?“.

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    Copyright: ℗ & © 2015 - 2020 Onno Benschop

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    Latest Episodes:
    Organisation around your shack Oct 08, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The art of keeping your station organised and accessible has much to do with choosing wisely which bits to keep and which bits to throw. That's part of the story, but there are other aspects of organisation that will assist you.

    Rolling up coax is a skill that you need to learn. The over and under method of coiling cable is by far the easiest way to ensure that your coax stays healthy and happy without kinks and other distortions.

    Once you've coiled your coax, many amateurs use electrical tape to hold the coil in place for storage. This can be helpful, since it means that you'll always have a handy supply of electrical tape on hand for when the need arises, but an alternative is to use Velcro cable wraps which attach semi-permanently to one end of the coax and can be wrapped onto itself to make a loop around the coiled coax.

    Making a water-proof connection, for temporary use can be as simple as covering it in electrical tape. This isn't ideal and not permanent and water inside coax is a guaranteed way to create problems that go well beyond the one time that it got wet, with rust and rot destroying the connector, then the conductors and then ultimately your radio. A better solution is to use either self-amalgamating tape, or plumbing tape to cover the join, followed by electrical tape and even cable ties to ensure that the tape stays in place.

    There are self-amalgamating dispensers that allow you to coat a connector in a sticky goo that also keeps water out, but getting it off at a later stage is guaranteed to make your hands black and sticky.

    If you're operating portable, then getting your wire into the air might be associated with throwing something into a tree to pull your antenna up. A fishing rod is a very helpful tool, complete with some fishing weights, to get the wire into a tree. Bring spare sinkers because you're going to lose some along the way.

    Storing a cable or stay kit is often a laborious affair with the rope getting tied up in knots throughout your kit with the next 30 minutes spent untangling the almighty spider-web that magically appeared inside your go-kit. A great way to prevent such an adventure is to invest in different size zip-lock bags. You can label the bag appropriately and see inside what's there, so if you have a few of them, you only need to grab the one you need and use different sizes for different purposes. Too small means they pop open and too large means you can't find what you need.

    Bring along some ratchet straps. They don't need to be 20m monsters, 2m is just fine, but bring a few. You'll be surprised how often they come in handy to tie down a radio, or a squid-pole, or strap a clipboard to something.

    A clipboard is a useful surface to write on, to keep your logs and if you get a clipboard box, you can store your electronic log keeping device and some pens in the same place.

    At one point I actually attached the head of my radio to my clipboard with some screws which made operating and logging even easier.

    No doubt you've got some tips of your own, so feel free to drop me a line and share.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    A transistor radio curve-ball ... Oct 01, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Today I have a confession to make. Looking back it's clear that once your brain goes down a certain path, it's easier to follow the path than to find an alternative one. When I was growing up, above my bed, bolted to the wall were two brackets. On top of those brackets, secured with double-sided tape was a radio-cassette player. If you're unfamiliar with what an audio cassette is, don't worry, this is about the radio side of things and is from the days when Digital Music was not in wide use like it is today.

    I used this radio to listen to local stations, both on the AM and FM broadcast band, and I managed to even get to the beginning of the FM broadcast band where the police radio happened to be at the time in the country I was living.

    As years went by, that radio-cassette player was replaced with a radio tuner, then a combined amplifier tuner and I re-programmed it as I moved around the globe with new local stations filling up the quick select button memories.

    Over the last year or so it occurred to me that my latest device had been sitting inside a box in the garage for the better part of a decade and that the gap was filled by the radio in my car. I would drive somewhere and turn on the radio and listen to something interesting, or something boring, depending on what the airwaves brought to my antenna at the time.

    I started wanting to listen to the end of interviews, or rock along to some other happy tune when I got home, but I found the transition to be painful. I experimented with streaming radio, spent hours looking for software and currently the best I can do on that front is to have an App on my phone that streams a local radio station.

    You're likely by now doing one of two things. We'll get to the second one in a moment. The first one is probably going to be along the lines of "Yeah, so, what exactly has this got to do with Amateur Radio again?"

    If you're not thinking that, you might be thinking something that only occurred to me last week. "Why don't you use your Amateur Radio and tune that to a local broadcast station?"

    Indeed, why not?

    I'd never considered that even though my Yaesu FT-857d can tune from 100 KHz through to 470 MHz, covering most of the Amateur Bands, I'd never considered that it would also allow me to listen to a local broadcast station.

    It's not that I haven't actually tuned to those stations, or listened to the local Air Traffic Control frequencies, or the local Non Directional Beacons when they still existed, it's that those activities were in the context of Amateur Radio, along the lines of propagation, or interesting signals, not background music, or listening to an interview or a talk-back station.

    I've not yet gone to the trouble of pre-programming those stations, since my Amateur Radio is sensitive enough to pick up stations that my car cannot hear, but the list of frequencies that I'm tuning to during the day, using AM and FM is growing. Shame I can't get FM stereo from my Yaesu radio, perhaps that's something I should play with at some point.

    So, my second point is, "Duh, my Amateur Radio is also a radio, that you can listen to other broadcast stations with."

    Of course, it's a pretty pricey transistor radio, or short-wave radio, if you think of it like that, but if you've got it sitting next to you right now, it's simpler than making streaming radio work.

    I started this with paths travelled and I'll finish with that. When something like this happens, stop for a moment, celebrate the insight, share it with others and who knows what other things will bubble up.

    When was the last time your brain surprised you and what do you listen to that's not Amateur Radio? Who knows, I might become a short-wave listener yet!

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Tropospheric Ducting explained Sep 24, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    You've always been taught that VHF communications are line of sight and that the height of your antenna determines how far your 2m communication might go. So if I tell you that last week I spoke with a station that was 300 kilometres away on the 2m band you might be forgiven in thinking that I had managed to climb up most of the side of Mount Everest to around 7 kilometres so I could make my line-of-sight communications 300 kilometres away.

    I'll give you a hint. I was at my home, my house isn't on the side of Mount Everest and we were both using normal gear, nothing crazy, no amplifiers, no glitzy antennas, just the basics.

    So what's going on?

    There'ss a phenomenon called "Tropospheric Ducting" that comes and goes and if conditions are right, allows you to extend your line-of-sight communications to distances far beyond your imagination.

    So, what is this thing and how does it work?

    First of all, this is something related to the lowest part of the atmosphere, called the troposphere. It has nothing to do with the ionosphere which we know and love and use regularly to make long distance communications on the HF bands. The ionosphere starts somewhere about 60km up, the troposphere stops at about 12km.

    Tropospheric Ducting happens much lower down. At the most around 3km up, but normally between 500m to 1500m. In essence a Tropospheric Duct is a layer of warm air trapped between two layers of colder air that acts as a tunnel for radio signals. These kinds of layers aren't caused by "weather" as such, but by climate conditions such as weather fronts. Normally as you go up into the atmosphere, the temperature drops. The rate is around 6 degrees Centigrade per kilometre.

    Without going into the fascinating science behind it, think about it as a phenomenon where you'll find different types of layers of air over the top of each other, each with their own density and temperature. When the conditions are just right, you get a tunnelling effect that allows you to make some very long distance communications. There's reports of signals travelling over 4000km and if conditions are right, you might be able to hear such long-distance signals on your house-hold FM radio.

    One aspect that you might not have considered is that the thickness of the sandwiched warm layer determines which frequencies can travel along this so-called tunnel. If the thickness is 15m, you can expect to hear 11 GHz signals, 90m thickness gives you 400 MHz propagation and 180m thickness gives your 140 MHz signals a path to travel. If you manage to find a layer that's 430m thick, you might even manage to make contact using 29 MHz using a Tropospheric Duct.

    Now, you might be forgiven in thinking that this is all voo-doo and unpredictable, but it turns out that there are plenty of things that you can use to observe that conditions might be right. If you have local fog, or smog trapped over your station, you might be able to take advantage of this phenomenon. It's not that the smog or fog is causing the duct, it's that they happen to occur at the same time as the ducts are created.

    If you see a sharp layer in the sky, then turn on your radio and have a gander. I won't guarantee success, and you can look online for William Hepburn's World Wide Tropospheric Ducting Forecast, but you really don't need that to get started.

    Tropospheric Ducting happens all over the planet and it might be happening right now.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Storing your Amateur stuff ... everywhere. Sep 17, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    There is so much stuff associated with Amateur Radio that your family might be forgiven in thinking that your hobby is all about being in the middle of a junk-yard surrounded by the carcasses of disassembled gear, components, failed projects, obsolete equipment and scraps of wire, solder and countless screws, resistors and other bits and pieces that are just too valuable to dispose of.

    During the week I was given an incentive to reorganise my work-shop. I set aside an hour to do it and unsurprisingly, armed with 20/20 hind-sight, it took a day to complete. The upshot of this activity is that I can now walk into my work-shop, something which I couldn't last week, and to top it off, I could actually find things.

    I confess that I've reorganised my work-shop several times over the years, but each time I find that it returns to its natural state of junk everywhere. I have noticed that this state is taking longer and longer to achieve, which means that I am improving things, but not quite as well as I would like.

    The biggest improvement I found last time around was to install shelving. I also used cardboard boxes to put stuff into, but that turned out to be a mixed blessing, tidy, but unusable, since I had to keep stacking and un-stacking boxes to see what was inside and writing on the outside only helped if the list of what was in the box was complete, which I'm sure you know, is never ever the case.

    This week I made an incremental change. I have purchased a whole slew of transparent plastic boxes, about the size of a shoe box each, with lid, stackable and big enough for most of the things I need to store.

    I've arranged the boxes along several shelves, stacked two high, so you only ever have to lift one box if you need to get to the bottom one.

    When ever I go into a bottom box, I move it to the top, so over time the most used boxes will be on top and the ones I don't use often will be on the bottom.

    Now I have a box with Velcro straps, one with cable ties, one with electrical tape, one with self-tapping screws, one with audio connectors and so-on.

    Time will tell if this helps.

    You might recall in the past that I've also got a stack of fishing boxes. Not a whole tackle box, just a single layer box with square compartments, removable dividers, just large enough for about 4 PL259 connectors in each. They're also transparent and stackable.

    Each compartment has some unique component. Red Anderson Power-Pole shells in one, Black in the next, Green, Purple, Yellow etc, each in their own little space. The connector innards are in another compartment, the joiners in another, BNC male connectors in another, and so-on.

    I've seen similar attempts at organisation using glass jam jars, but in my experience they don't stack well, are never uniform, unless you have 100 identical jars and are not compatible with concrete floors and gravity.

    I'm sure that I've missed some salient storage advice, so feel free to drop me a line and share your experiences.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Amateur Radio Regulation and Enforcement in Australia is Broken Sep 10, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The other day a fellow Amateur was relating their experience in the hobby. They spoke of interference, jamming, breaking in over the top of contacts and generally being hounded by special people who think it's their purpose in life to make life miserable for others.

    I have spoken in the past about similar experiences that I had with individuals jamming a weekly net that I've been hosting for new and returning hams, and occasions when I've been on-air with a special callsign with an individual yelling "pirate" at the top of their lungs in an attempt to get me off a particular band, even though I was operating in compliance with the license conditions.

    I've personally made complaints to the regulator about these occurrences, who then decided that being interfered with for over a year was something that the repeater owner should complain about. When they complained, they were told that there was not enough evidence, or some such excuse, I forget exactly the details, but the problem was never investigated or regulated.

    I contacted the regulator to advise them of interference of our National Broadcaster on a particular frequency, on a particular stretch of road and their response was that it wasn't their problem to fix - even though the Australian Communications and Media Authority is specifically the spectrum regulator. One particularly funny, though not in a hi-hi kind of way was when I was speaking with an investigator who asked me how I knew about interference. I explained that I was a licensed Amateur. His response was: "I'm a Professional". I can still hear the capital "P", years later.

    Compare that to complaints being raised about my use of a club call-sign, or the publication of my podcast on-line, or the inclusion of an audio stinger in the local news I produce, or the inclusion of a flea-market segment in the same news, or a podcast I made about the use of an Iambic Key by Foundation Licensees.

    In each of those occasions either the regulator or the peak representative body of Amateur Radio in Australia, the Wireless Institute, or both, jumped in feet first, making pronouncements, issuing decrees or directives without ever actually contacting the person about whom the complaint was actually about.

    It seems that there must be a special hand-shake in order for your complaint to be taken seriously, that, or they're both running scared because I venture to make an opinion publicly. No, it can't be that, we have freedom of speech in this country - right?

    Anyone?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Which antenna should I get first? Sep 03, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The other day I was asked about what antenna should you get as your first one. This question is pretty simple, but the answer is likely much less so.

    You might recall that I've pointed out that we can prove you physically cannot build the ideal antenna, so by definition all antennas are compromises.

    You might also find yourself being bamboozled by claims about how an antenna is the perfect match across all or many frequencies. The same is true for a dummy load where the purpose is not to radiate at all.

    With that in mind and armed with a healthy dose of scepticism, you can now go hunting for the answer.

    On my journey through this minefield of mysticism I went from a self built wire vertical on a squid pole with a 16 radial ground plane and an electronic antenna coupler, through a set of purchased single band verticals, a wire dipole, a wire delta loop, a Buddi-pole, a magnetic loop, a multi-tap vertical, and many others along the way.

    Some of those antennas were bought, others were built, several were given to me and some have been loaned by fellow amateurs.

    I should mention that the antennas I named were all for HF frequencies. On VHF and UHF, 2 m and 70 cm, the list consists of four antennas, I started with a simple vertical and in my car I use that almost exclusively. I also have two larger verticals at home, depending on what I'm doing I'll swap between them but for the past year I've had a 10 m vertical which also happens to be resonant on 2 m, so I can swap between HF and 2 m without climbing on a ladder.

    Building an antenna can be very rewarding but also very frustrating. Similarly, buying an antenna is no guarantee for success.

    This means that every environment is different and many combinations of antenna and location are doomed before you start.

    Essentially you have to start a process to find what works for you and your environment, a fixed location, or a car, portable, mobile or something else, in my limited experience there really isn't a substitute for trial and error.

    That being said, getting your hands on a balun and some wire is a good place to start. If you're looking for something that takes up less space, a vertical is often another way to get going.

    Currently in my car I use a multi-tap vertical. At home I'm playing with a 10 m vertical and a magnetic loop. When I set up portable on my own I'll use my squid pole vertical and if I'm with others I'll help string up as much wire as we can. At my local radio club I'll use one of several Yagi antennas and if I'm at a friend's place I'll use whatever they have plugged into their radio.

    This confusing mismatch of antennas reflects about six years of experimentation and I've not even mentioned the pile of failures sitting in the corner of my shack.

    Two more comments. Getting or borrowing an antenna analyser is a good idea and the amount of money you spend on an antenna is no indication of success.

    That's not really an answer, but it's the best I have.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Amateur Radio is about Experimenting and Trying! Aug 27, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The other day I was browsing through the Amateur Radio Syllabus for Foundation Licensees, as you do, you know, when you're bored out of your mind, or in my case, looking for a topic to talk about.

    So, I came across this interesting point, if you want to look it up, point 2.2 of the Foundation Syllabus. It states that in order to attain your Foundation License in Australia you must: "Recall that an Amateur Licence primarily authorises the operation of an Amateur station for self-training in radio communications, inter-communications between Amateurs and technical investigations into radio communications."

    You might hear that and think, ok, so what's your point?

    Simple really. As an Amateur Radio community we have come to collectively understand that in order for you to do anything in the realm of building or research, you need to hold more responsibility and that if you're on the so-called bottom rung of Amateur-dom, you really are only a button twiddler, appliance operator and not much of an Amateur at all.

    It's funny really, since the Amateurs I know and consider to be my friends and peers, exist across the wide spectrum, from being licensed last week, through last year, through last decade onto before I was born, more than half a century ago, these Amateurs have one thing in common - curiosity.

    They like to explore, to investigate, to understand, to learn and to try stuff. Many of these Amateurs have a Foundation License like I do and their skill in exploring has very little to do with their level of license and everything to do with their approach and attitude.

    I know that I can just go about my business and ignore the noisy minority who continue to be derisive towards lesser Amateurs, but I think it's important to highlight that my personal experience does not match their vocal opposition towards those who hold different opinions, find different things interesting, bring different approaches and attitudes or continue to be excited by this hobby.

    I know that I often point out this element of nay-sayers, but I'd like to also point out that while they make noise, a much larger group of Amateurs continues to play and explore.

    A couple of years ago, when the ink on my license wasn't even dry, I was dragged, almost kicking and screaming, to a national Amateur Conference by a fellow Amateur and good friend. I resisted, but his insistence saw me pack my bags and head over to meet a group of people who share this amazing thrill that I experience with Amateur Radio on a daily basis.

    I'm immensely grateful for my friend and his badgering, and want to point out that if you find yourself surrounded by those who continue to tell you that you need to upgrade, that what you're doing has been done and failed, that what you're playing with isn't interesting, that what you're doing is wrong. If you find yourself in that place, then I urge you to find new friends in Amateur Radio, because we're not all like that, in fact, I'm pretty sure, most of us are not like that.

    It's just that the know-it-alls are good at telling you so and the quiet achievers just get on with it.

    Find a friend, explore an idea, try something new, visit a new club, or go on an adventure.

    Amateur Radio is and should be fun and if it isn't you're looking in the wrong places.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    How does PSK or Phase Shift Keying actually work? Aug 20, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Previously I've explained how Radio-teletype or RTTY works from a technical perspective. If you recall, it uses a technique called Frequency Shift Keying, or FSK to encode digital information. It does this by transmitting a carrier across two alternating frequencies, allocating one as a SPACE and the other as a MARK, or as a binary 0 and a binary 1.

    There are several other ways of encoding information and today I'm going to look at Phase Shift Keying, or PSK, which I find humorous, because Phase is spelled with a P, but it sounds like an F, which links the FSK and PSK together, but then I've always had a strange sense of humour.

    Imagine if you will a sine wave. It's the one you learned in high-school, nothing sophisticated about it, just keeps going up and down over time. Now imagine another one. Also going up and down over time. If these two sine waves are synchronised, going up and down at the same time, the difference between them is 0.

    If one of the sine waves is going up, while the other is going down, then the difference between them is 1.

    That is enough to give you a binary 0 and a binary 1. One of the sine waves is a carrier, so it's transmitted continuously, and the other is changed depending on whether you're sending a 0 or a 1.

    These two sine waves are said to be "in-phase" when they're both going up and down at the same time, and "out of phase" when they're going in opposite directions. This is how Phase Shift Keying works. And the simple example I gave is known as BPSK, or Binary Phase-Shift Keying.

    There are countless variations on this. For example, you don't need to have them going in completely 180 degrees opposite directions, you could go only 90 degrees, or even 45 degrees, which would allow you to encode more information across a shorter time span at the cost of less accurate decoding at the other end.

    You could play with the carrier and instead have the signal be compared to itself, making it more robust in some circumstances, or you could have multiple of these signals happening at the same time.

    You could change the amplitude of the carrier and allocate specific byte values to each combination. For example, one variation, an encoding method called "16-QAM" allows you to create 16 different signals, which equates to sending 4 bits at a time.

    Each of these have different advantages and disadvantages, trade-offs between speed, reliability, error detection, impact of polarisation changes in the ionosphere, energy efficiency, etc.

    You might be surprised to learn that these techniques are not only used inside Amateur Radio and PSK31, they're also used in Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Ethernet, RFID and countless other places, like remote controls, hard-drives, tape recorders, satellite communications, mobile telephony, etc.

    If you get hooked, there's lots of maths that you can associate with all of this - if that floats your boat, but you don't need any maths to grasp how it works.

    Phase Shift Keying, one of the many Digital Modes that make our world go round.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    How does RTTY work? Aug 13, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The continued discussion in our community about Digital Modes got me thinking about what a Digital Mode actually is. At the most fundamental level, it's about encoding information into discrete chunks to exchange information. Morse Code is an example of a Digital Mode, made up from combinations of dits and dahs.

    If you change frequency whilst sending dits and dah's you invented RTTY or Radio-teletype. There are two frequencies involved, 170 Hz apart, where the lower frequency is the SPACE frequency and the upper frequency is the MARK frequency. If someone gives you a RTTY frequency, they're talking about the upper frequency.

    Instead of using Morse Code to send messages, RTTY uses 32 different codes, 5 bits, to exchange information. This isn't enough for the entire alphabet, with digits and punctuation, so two of the codes are used to swap between Letters and Numbers.

    Some radios can change frequency between the lower SPACE and upper MARK frequencies in a single transmission. This way of transmitting is called FSK, or Frequency Shift Keying. It's a lot like moving the VFO around whilst keying a Morse-key. Not something you'd do manually, since in Amateur Radio, this is generally happening 45 times a second.

    If your radio can't do the frequency shifting, then another way is to use Audio Frequency Shift Keying of AFSK, where instead of changing the frequency, you change an audio tone by 170 Hz. Without getting technical about how this works, if you've ever listened to Morse Code with a radio, you'll have noticed that as you change frequency, the sound changes. If you were to change the frequency of your radio by 170 Hz, the sound would also change by 170 Hz.

    So with that in mind, if you were to change the sound by 170 Hz, the receiver wouldn't care if you were changing the transmit frequency or the audio frequency, since it both sounds identical at the other end.

    Most of the time a computer is generating two tones, a tone for the SPACE, or lower frequency and a tone for the MARK or the upper frequency. It comes out of the speaker of the computer, which you feed into the microphone of the radio and your radio then generates a normal SSB signal that is experienced by the listener at the other end as a Radio-teletype.

    Pretty nifty and if you understand this, then most of the other Digital Modes in use today use similar methods.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Qualifications for using a Digital Mode Aug 06, 2017
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Having a Digital Mode in your shack appears to be a special privilege, at least in some parts of the world. If you'd like to learn all there is to do with using a Digital Mode you need to pay attention and I'll share the secret, it won't take long.

    If you want to distinguish yourself as a Digital Mode Diva, you need to know that Morse, RTTY, FSK and PSK are digital modes and you must also remember that the bandwidth of a data transmission is dependent on speed and mode.

    At this point you've covered all the syllabus requirements for holding a Standard License in Australia in relation to operating a Digital Mode.

    If you want to climb the Mountain of Digital Mode Magic, you need to remember two acronyms, FEC or Forward Error Correction and ARQ or Automatic Repeat Request. You also need to remember four numbers, 31 Hz for PSK31, 250 Hz for RTTY, 730 Hz for Packet Radio and 300 Hz for FSK. And if you want to get really fancy, I should point out that there are several versions of each of these modes and different ways to implement them, so those numbers will change depending on who's teaching you.

    If I go on to tell you that a Terminal Node Controller or TNC is a black box with two audio leads, one for the microphone and one for the speaker and that you plug those into the appropriate sockets on your radio, you know all that is required to hold an Advanced Certificate in Australia for using a Digital Mode.

    If you don't want to blow up your radio, then you should also remember that there is a thing called Duty Cycle that will come to haunt you if you get it wrong.

    That's it, now you know everything there is to know about using Digital Modes.

    Actually, I'm lying. When you say the letter A on air you use the word Alpha. You're sending extra information so the other end has a better chance of understanding what you said. That's Forward Error Correction.

    And when you say the same thing repeatedly, like saying CQ, CQ, CQ, if you don't get an acknowledgement from the other end, that's Automatic Repeat Request.

    Now you really do know all there is to know about Digital Modes according to the syllabus for both Standard and Advanced Licenses in Australia.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


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