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    Hobbies

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Starting in the wonderful hobby of Amateur or HAM Radio can be daunting and challenging but can be very rewarding. Every week I look at a different aspect of the hobby, how you might fit in and get the very best from the 1000 hobbies that Amateur Radio represents. Note that this podcast started in 2011 as “What use is an F-call?“.

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    Copyright: ℗ & © 2015 - 2020 Onno Benschop

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    Latest Episodes:
    When you hear a distress call ... Apr 07, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    When you get your amateur radio license you become part of a select group of humans who are required to notify authorities if you happen to hear an emergency transmission. Not only that, you're required to offer assistance.

    The regulator in Australia, the ACMA, says this about it:

    When a distress call is heard, you must immediately cease all transmissions. You must continue to listen on frequency. You must record full details of the distress message, in writing and if possible recorded by tape recorder.

    You must also wait for a short time to see if the message is heard by a station better placed to help.

    If the distress message is not acknowledged within a reasonable time, the amateur is obliged to assist.

    The regulator goes on to say that after acknowledging or attempting to acknowledge receipt of the distress message, you should immediately forward details of the distress situation to the nearest police station for land based distress situations or the Australian Maritime Safety Authority for air or sea based distress situations.

    In the United States, the ARRL uses the word may, rather than must, but essentially says the same thing. The FCC, the US regulator, says that an amateur station is not restricted by any rules to attract attention in the case of distress, nor is there any restriction on assisting a station in distress. In the UK, the regulator specifies that instead of waiting for a reasonable time you must wait for three minutes for a Coast Station to reply before responding.

    Interestingly, getting information on how to respond, what you must and must not do is hard to come by. This in itself is a cause for concern, but let's move on.

    Using the Australian example and requirements, how prepared are you to do this? Could you actually record the information, do you have a pen and paper next to your radio and can at short notice dig up a tape-recorder, or presumably some more modern recording device, capable of recording audio from your station?

    Do you have the contact details for search and rescue at hand and are you actually prepared for such activities?

    During the week, an amateur in Australia reported that they heard a distress signal five hours after the event. While they were at work, their station recorded off-air and they listened to the recording after returning home. Using social media, they asked the question, should they report this information to authorities?

    The answer is Yes, not only should they, in this case, given that they're in Australia, they must. There was no evidence that any other station heard the distress signal, in fact, the evidence was that the other stations continued to transmit on frequency, either completely deaf, or engaged in more pressing activities like hunting for a contact.

    I will note that propagation is a fickle beast and it's possible, though improbable, that the other stations on frequency didn't hear the distress call, even through it was repeated. For that reason alone, you should never assume that someone else will deal with it and as I said, in Australia, you don't get the option, you are required to.

    A couple of other things came to light for that amateur this week. Their recording was in a format that was hard to process by normal audio processing software, in this case the recording was made as an I/Q recording, we should look at that some other time, but processing the file was non-trivial and valuable time was lost in uploading a huge file, and for others to download it for confirmation. There was also indecision about reporting the call to authorities and if so, to which ones.

    I will say that while we don't know the outcome of the distress signal, we do know that it was reported and that at this point is exactly what is required.

    The chances that you'll hear a real distress signal in your life are tiny, but if it happens, are you ready for it? I know I have some work to do.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Overcoming Microphone Anxiety Mar 31, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    If the thought of keying up a microphone has you break out in a cold sweat, or the notion of making a mistake sends you into fits of anxiety, the idea of performance in public makes your heart pound, this is for you.

    Amateur radio is a hobby of communication. The lowest barrier to entry is a hand held radio and making voice contacts with the rest of the community. There is an underlying assumption that this is likely to be the most common way that you'll start getting on air and making noise.

    Of course you don't have to do that. You could learn Morse Code and never have to open your mouth. You could get a license that's permitted to use a Digital Mode like JT65 or RTTY and let your fingers to the talking. Both those options are perfectly valid and if that's what you need to get on air, be my guest.

    If you do however want to actually get to a point where you can communicate with other amateurs using voice communication, then let's investigate what voice communication actually entails and what fears might be eating away at your confidence.

    The most obvious fear, shared by many, if not most amateurs, is the fear of making a mistake. So let's look at that. Apart from blowing up your gear, which won't actually be noticed by anyone but you, those near to you and perhaps your bank manager, blowing up your gear is not a high embarrassment experience. Expensive perhaps, but not so much socially crippling, unless you tell someone that you did it.

    Other mistakes might be a little more public. For example, if you're on HF, theoretically the entire planet can hear you, perhaps even those space aliens orbiting the Sun and in 4.367 years, those orbiting Alpha Centauri. So potentially, many different individuals and communities can hear you. To counter that I'd point out that most of those will not actually have the means to hear you, or if they technically do, they are likely to be on a different frequency, or otherwise engaged, eating, sleeping, procreating, whatever.

    The chances that someone actually hears you is very, very low and if you're on VHF or UHF, the audience drops even further. The potential audience is only really line-of-sight, unless you happen to activate a Tropospheric duct, but then that might only double the potential audience, the actual audience is still a fraction compared to HF.

    You might be afraid that you'll transmit on the wrong frequency. If you've purchased modern properly built and configured amateur radio equipment, the chances of transmitting out of band, into non-amateur frequencies is very low. If you pay attention to what the dial says, and you have a copy of your band-plan at hand, the chances of getting it wrong are even lower. Even so, the band police aren't going to knock on your door within the next 30 seconds, so take a breath.

    The next set of fears revolve around saying the wrong thing. If you haven't talked on the radio much, or even at all, you're bound to worry about blurting out the wrong thing and being the biggest embarrassment to the hobby in this and the last century.

    Getting your callsign wrong is pretty common. If you're just starting out, or even if you're more experienced, writing down the callsign on a piece of paper and having it in front of you when you key your microphone is good planning. For every contest I participate in using anything other than my own callsign, I bring a piece of paper and a thick marker for just that purpose. I can still get it wrong, sometimes I even notice.

    Then there is the topic of the conversation itself. What do you talk about? How long do you talk? How much should you share?

    The answer to those questions can be summed up with a simple phrase - less is more. If you're establishing the actual contact, a bare minimum is required. You need to first establish that you have their callsign and they have yours. Don't do anything until both those have been confirmed. That goes for both day-to-day contacts and contest contacts. After that, establish how well they are hearing you and how well you are hearing them. Exchange a signal report. If you're in a contest, you'll include the contest exchange while you're sending a signal report.

    If you're not sure about anything, you can stop there. If you're doing a contest, that's all that's needed and unless the other station asks for your dog's name, or the weather, you can safely move on to your next contact.

    Your takeaway from this should be that doing a contest can be a really safe way to start. There is minimal information to exchange, it follows a strict format and it's generally over before you know it.

    Working DX, chasing activators in far away lands can be your next stepping stone, or joining a net on the local repeater might be how you next cut your teeth.

    You can create a list of things you've heard other people mention and use it to describe your environment. Nothing wrong with making some notes.

    Most amateurs perpetually carry around a little notebook to scribble down callsigns so when they're in a group discussion, they can track who's on and who's next.

    As you can tell. You can make this as simple or complex as you like. You can be afraid of the sky falling in, but then you'd need a Druid, a shield and a menhir and if you can swing it, a buddy called Asterix.

    Final comment. If all else fails, pretend you're talking to me. I can tell you that I'm happy to make the contact, I'm all ears and if I hear you, I'll respond. Did I mention that I'm standing on my head and I'm not wearing any clothes?

    So have at it.

    What are you afraid of?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    The Station Log Mar 24, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    A topic that rarely if ever gets any serious air-time is the humble station log. It's a process where you track what contacts you've made with whom, when and what conditions prevailed at the time.

    Notice first of all that I mention that it's a process. A station log is made up of several different moving parts and if you're new to this you might think of your station log as a physical thing. You can actually buy things called Station Logs, looks like a book, it has pages, lines, columns, sometimes pre-populated with headings and as you operate, you write stuff into this book.

    Let's start with the stuff. What stuff? How much stuff?

    Have you ever heard another station on-air say something along the lines: Hey Wally, it's been a long time, we last spoke in 1984, how are you and how are the kids?

    If you thought for a moment that the station had all that information stored away in the back of their mind, that's not to say, some do, but most of the time it's thanks to their station log that this kind of information is at their fingertips.

    Another thing you might realise is that if you're using paper, like the book I mentioned, then doing this kind of lookup is less than trivial, unless you maintain two logs, one in callsign order and another in contact order. Perhaps you start creating a card file with this kind of information.

    We do have better tools.

    At the simplest level, you can create a spreadsheet with your station log. It's simple to maintain, easy to expand, backup, infinitely flexible and for many stations it ticks all the right boxes as a way to store contact information.

    So, looking at a spreadsheet, what columns should you introduce as a starting point?

    Well date and time is a good start. Logging in UTC is a solid idea, given that you might move location several times in your amateur career and you might not always be in the same time zone, so if you need to know what time it actually was, you'd need to add a time zone column. Instead just log in UTC, and the time will always be correct. After date and time, you'll need a record of the frequency. You can either record it as a band name, or as an actual frequency, your choice. You'll need a column for the mode, was it an SSB contact, CW or an AM contact, RTTY, FM, FT8, what ever you need to track. You can choose to differentiate between Upper Side Band and Lower Side Band, it's entirely up to you.

    The next column you'll need is a callsign column, one for the other station. If you have several callsigns, you might also want to add a column for your own callsign. The operator name, theirs, presumably you know who you are, a signal report sent column and a signal report received column and if you're game a comments column.

    That's the bare bones of the idea.

    You can expand this to include location information, both theirs and yours, perhaps you'd like to record station information, what antenna you were using, where were you, operating on battery, the power levels, etc. The sky is the limit. Log as much or as little as seems helpful.

    You'll notice at this point I've not yet talked about specific software. That's because at this point you don't actually know what you care about. For some people logging the bare minimum is enough, for others, recording the whole contact or QSO is not enough and of course there is every variation in between.

    Once you've become comfortable with what to log, you can start looking for specific tools, what's suitable for your Operating System, your usage patterns, etc.

    I've said previously that if you're looking at logging software, make absolutely sure that it has the ability to export your data. If it cannot export, then my strong recommendation is to discard that software as a choice, because locking away your data in a flexible environment like amateur radio is a recipe for entering data manually into a new tool and you have better things to do with your life like getting on air and making noise.

    Now I started off with saying that the station log is a process and so far all I've talked about is the act of logging. The next step in the process is the act of QSL-ing, that is, exchanging your contact record with the other station. There are many different ways to do it, which is food for another day, but tracking where in the process you are, sent QSL, received QSL, confirmed QSL, etc. are just some steps that you might want to track.

    One of the things that a spreadsheet won't do is track progress. Unless you start writing specific reporting modules, which from an educational perspective might be interesting, tracking progress toward a DXCC, which is contacting 100 countries, Worked All States, Worked All Continents, IOTA or Islands On The Air, SOTA or Summits On The Air and many other awards, you'll get to a point where you'll want to have a report.

    At that time you can import your spreadsheet into an amateur radio logging tool and generate reports from there.

    Also, Contest Logging and Station Logging are very similar but not the same. A tool that is great for a station log might be a nightmare for a contest. Contests have rules and station logs don't. Clicking your mouse or entering the time manually during a contest is not a good use of your contesting time. So consider that when you're hunting around for software.

    Final comment, using an online tool, a website, to track your station log is in my opinion fine as a secondary option. It can act as a backup. As an IT professional I've yet to encounter an online log that is run as a business with service level agreements, redundancies, etc. I'm not saying that they don't exist, I've just not seen them. Keeping your primary station log on a random website run by volunteers is great for a short term effort, but long term it's asking for trouble.

    Before I go, remember to make backups of your log!

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    What's in a Chirp? Mar 17, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    On Thursday the 3rd of July 2008 at 6 minutes to 7 at night a developer called Dan KK7DS started to scratch an itch and published the results. The next morning before breakfast Dan added more. Since then about a hundred people from around the globe have contributed to that project.

    Some people made little changes, others made large contributions over many years. In all, on average, the project saw a change every 29 hours over more than a decade of contributions.

    On the 16th of July, less than two weeks into the project, it got a name, CHIRP. It's been translated from US English to Spanish, French, Hungarian, Italian, Dutch, Polish, Brazilian Portuguese, Russian and the Queens English.

    From the beginning of talking to a single Icom IC-92 radio, CHIRP today supports 27 different Icom radios, 36 different brands of radio, hundreds of different radios in all, with new ones being added every couple of months or so.

    The software runs on anything that will run Python, that includes Windows, OS X and Linux and it does it with an extremely modest footprint and it's free, free in cost and free as in Open Source.

    If you're not familiar with CHIRP and you have a radio, then it's time to get to know this tool. It makes it simple to program your radio, to configure settings and to make backups of your current channel listings. I should mention that this is not just for hand held radios, there are plenty of HF base station radios supported.

    When you run CHIRP it presents you with a window where you have a spreadsheet view of the channels in your radio. You can download the channels from your radio or upload new ones. Changing a frequency is as simple as clicking on the frequency and typing a new one, with a full-human-sized keyboard, rather than the poor excuse for a dial-pad your radio has. If your radio supports it, you can supply a human readable name, configure offsets, CTCSS and tuning step size, the mode and several other properties.

    If you're unsure where to get started, CHIRP even comes with a list of frequencies to get you on your way.

    You can create different configurations for different types of operations. For example, if you're into SOTA, you can make a configuration file that has all the relevant SOTA frequencies, but when you head back home and want to use the local repeater network, you can build a set for that. If you visit a different state, another country, or if you want to copy your channels from one radio to another, you can with CHIRP.

    If you want to get started, there's a Beginners Guide, a list of frequently asked questions and you'll find information about what cables to use, specific errors and issues you might encounter and if you're a software developer, you'll find information on how to contribute.

    If you want the ability to program your radio on any computer, you can download a boot-able CD that will run CHIRP without installing it and if you need help, there's an active mailing list, going back to 2008, an up to date wiki, issue tracker and of course, you can download the source-code, if that's your fancy.

    CHIRP makes all that possible because one amateur wanted to scratch an itch.

    What's itchy in your life?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Creativity comes with practice Mar 10, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    I grew up with Lego, plastic blocks that you can put together in infinite variety. My oldest Lego kit hails from 1964, kit 324: House with Garage and it's still in pretty good nick today. It's missing the tree and the car and the garage door is broken and a few blocks have vanished, but putting it together the other day reminded me of the art of building.

    Today I still play with Lego. In fact after a hiatus of several decades I pulled out my old boxes and started sorting my blocks. That lead to building the House and while I was at it, I managed to reconstruct my first Lego Technic kit, 850: Forklift, bringing with it a flood of memories.

    Why the Lego?

    It's been my source of inspiration for many decades. It has allowed me to imagine something and then go on to build it. Over the years I've learned that this is not a universal experience. I recall one friend who was gifted a huge Lego car, but had no idea that you were allowed to modify it and I blew his mind converting his four cylinder engine into a V6.

    That same eye for the possibility exists in all of us. You need to look at things in a different light.

    One of my friends likes to shop online, he also loves to roam through the local hardware store and I get regular photos of things that are useful. Last night I got a photo of a square washer. Plate of steel, galvanised, hole in the middle with the caption: I've got plans.

    I took one look at it and knew that I too had plans for that washer, which is why thoughtfully he bought a couple for me too - I didn't even need to ask, it was obvious to us both.

    The central hole is just the right size for an SO239, so clearly the washer is just right to act as an antenna base. You could weld it to a trailer, or drill some holes for radials, hang it from a tree, make a dipole from it, the sky is the limit and for only 76 cents, what's not to like.

    I've been looking, like all my amateur friends do regularly, for a pole. I have a large 12m squidpole. It's very helpful to make into a vertical antenna. Use a bit of wire and you're good to go. It's a little floppy if you want to hold anything more substantial, like a horizontal dipole or an inverted V antenna.

    So, back to the pole. I'm looking in my local hardware store for poles. Of course I could go with the Pine variety, but I'm not keen on carrying a 3.6m wooden pole on the roof of my car, or for that matter, several of them, so I've been looking for other solutions. Tent-poles, pretty cost-effective, strong if you can guy them and the load is vertical, there's painters poles, which will require some testing to see if you can combine several together and make a longer contraption.

    The point is, I'm not seeing a painter's pole or a tent-pole when I'm looking, I'm seeing the ability to hold something up.

    In the same way as when Calvin gets his hands on a large box and converts it into a Transmogrifier, I wander the isles of various shopping outlets looking for the possibilities that something might have, rather than the label written on the outside.

    Doing this is second nature, and achieving it is a matter of practice.

    The best advice I can give is to walk around with 'What-if' emblazoned on your brain.

    What-if I could use this as an antenna, what-if I could use this as a battery-box, what-if this fits into my car, what-if this table is big enough for a field-day, what-if.

    That same what-if attitude will stand you in good stead when you experiment with antennas. Don't be afraid of failing, the more you fail, the better you learn.

    What-if isn't scary, it's in-built into this hobby of amateur radio.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    All the power in the world and not enough battery! Mar 03, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The transceiver you use to get on air and make noise needs power to operate. The traditional voltage for our amateur equipment is 13.8 Volts. Why not 12 Volts you ask. The short answer is chemistry, but let's move on, there is lots to cover.

    Generally that 13.8 Volt is specified with a +/- symbol and some percentage. For my radio it's 15%, which means that if I plug it into power that's somewhere between 11.7 Volt and 15.9 Volt, I'm good to go.

    Then when you look a little closer at the specification you'll see that my radio draws 22 Amp. That's a whole chunk of juice that needs to come from a power supply. Of course that means that you'll also need to deal with 22 Amp fuses, wire capable of dealing with 13.8 Volt at 22 Amp, and connectors that won't melt when you do that.

    If you look closer again, you might notice that 22 Amp is when you're using the radio at maximum power, that is, 100% duty cycle and 100% power, and only during transmit, in the case of my radio, 100 Watts for HF.

    So, if I'm using a digital mode, AM or FM, at 100 Watts on HF, my radio says it will draw 22 Amp at 13.8 Volts.

    Those numbers aren't correct of you're using CW or SSB. A rough number to work with for CW is 40%, that means if you're doing CW for a minute, that's the equivalent of key down at a 100% for 40 seconds and key up at 0% for 60 seconds.

    SSB is roughly 4 times as efficient as AM, about 25% duty cycle, but realistically it's more like 20%, since your power consumption depends on how much you're yelling into the microphone. If you take long breaths, 0% power, whistle into the microphone, 100% of SSB, or 25% of overall power.

    Now all this gets even more interesting if you consider that you're not just transmitting all the time. If you're only transmitting half the time, you need to take your power consumption down another 50%, so SSB might be 10%, CW only 20% and the digital modes 50%, from the perspective of the power supply.

    So you want to go portable and need batteries. Batteries don't come in 13.8 Volt versions. So 12 Volts. Get the number of amp hour and you're good to go right?

    Nope.

    Your battery doesn't just run at 12 Volts and then all of a sudden stop, it runs down, you've seen it in a torch or a Walkman when the tape got slower and slower. A 26 Ah battery should give you 26 Amp for an hour at 12 Volts, but if you actually do that, you'll need to buy a new battery, because you'll have destroyed the one you just exhausted.

    All of this then starts a conversation about chargers, which incidentally might put out 14.4 Volts. You might turn to solar panels, which at peak power operate at something like 18 Volts, then you stumble into the world of PWM vs MPPT solar converters or charges. Then there's the joys of over and under current, battery discharge rates, continuous versus intermittent charging, different battery types, battery safety, storage, weight, out-gassing and more fun than you'll want to know about on your morning commute.

    And I haven't even talked about battery isolation, HF interference from chargers and inverters, the differences between powering your radio straight from a battery or via a DC to DC converter, using 240 Volts, or if you're in the USA 120 Volts in the field, generators, compatibility with others and how much all this might cost and if you need to invest in lotto tickets to pay for this experience.

    One tool I stumbled across in my travels is the Four State QRP Group website which has the W1PNS / WA0ITP / AB8XA Battery Life Estimator, which in a single web page gives you the ability to say what mode you'll be using, for how long with what battery size and how much radio draw and it'll tell you how much more battery you'll need to get the job done. Very handy for a contest that you're hoping to operate portable from a battery.

    This all to say that power is a very deep rabbit hole and it will take you some time to figure out where your use pattern puts your requirements and budget.

    Here be dragons.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    More WSPR adventures Feb 24, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Previously I've spoken about the joy of making something out of not much. On that theme I've covered WSPR, the Weak Signal Propagation Reporter, a mechanism to use a modest station to report signals received, which is something any suitably interested person can participate in, no license required.

    For a time I had my radio, a Yaesu FT-857D connected to a Windows XP notebook running WSJT-X, a piece of software that has the ability to set the frequency of your radio and then listen to what the radio is hearing, attempt to decode it and then report on what was heard.

    The beauty of this system is that you're using your own station to report signals heard, that is, your own antenna, your own coax, your own radio. Essentially you can use it to see what can be heard from around the world at your station.

    I had this running for a while, but the set-up was less than satisfactory, because I use the same radio and antenna to run weekly nets, the computer was running Windows XP and running out of disk space since WSJT-X has the option to save all the audio heard, which was clogging up my drive.

    It also meant that I was required to remember that I needed to reset the volume of the radio, set the squelch just so, disconnect and more importantly reconnect the antenna when there were storms about and a few other annoyances that became just a little too much for it to be fun.

    After doing this for a couple of months I just gave up and put it into the too-hard basket.

    The other day I started afresh.

    I started with a Raspberry Pi. It's a single board computer, about the size of a credit card, that comes in at about $30, is powered off a USB adaptor and runs Linux. Since I've been using Linux for around 20 years now, it seemed like a natural fit. I managed to obtain an RTL-SDR dongle which if you're not familiar, is essentially a USB device that you can use to listen to RF frequencies. Without going too deep, these gadgets started life as USB DVB-T and FM receivers, you know the USB dongles that you can plug into your computer to watch free-to-air TV or listen to FM radio.

    Back in March of 2010 Eric Fry got curious about figuring out if he could make a Linux version for one of the dongles work by reverse engineering the communication between the dongle and the supplied Windows software. In 2012 Antti Palosaari built on that and published his findings on the linux-media mailing list. Things exploded from there.

    So, an RTL-SDR dongle, connected to a Raspberry Pi, running Linux.

    At this point it would be great if I could report success and show and tell everything I've learnt, but then for that to happen I would need to actually have had success and I'm not quite there yet.

    I managed to decode one, count 'em, one, WSPR packet on 6m, once.

    Of course I couldn't help myself and started to improve things and since then I've not heard anything.

    I can tell you that there is plenty of documentation online about the subject, and I'll be adding my version of that once I've got mine up and running.

    There's a few things to work on, for example, listening on 6m is all fine and well, as long as there are 6m stations within hearing that are on and transmitting. Turns out that the station that I heard once last weekend has been switched off for a week. I've just changed bands, to see if that improves things, but only time will tell. I have also been using a mechanism to change bands automatically every 15 minutes, but without any spots I'm not sure if my set-up is working or not and I've just been unlucky not to hear anything.

    The challenges continue, but then I suppose that's why I'm here in the first place. I will add that a problem shared is a problem halved. I mentioned my challenge to a local amateur who sprang into action and set-up a WSPR beacon, just so I can test against it. I'll let you know how I go, or you can monitor for my spots on the WSPR website and celebrate when you see a spot with my callsign on it, because I will be, celebrating that is.

    As an aside, it continues to surprise me that this hobby has its fingers in so many different pies and my chosen profession of IT Geek is just another aspect of amateur radio.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    Modern Tools for a Modern Hobby Feb 17, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    The hobby we call amateur radio is enormous. One amateur called it a thousand hobbies in one and that just about sums it up for me. Being bored inside this hobby is not an option, because there is just so much to do and see.

    Yesterday I found a completely unrelated aspect to our hobby, call it the one thousand and first hobby associated with amateur radio. A friend came over and handed me the separation kit mount for my Yaesu FT-857D, it's the bit of plastic that you clip to the back of the head of the radio, so you can mount it somewhere separate from the main body of the radio.

    I have one of those already, purchased from a local supplier, at the time, 8 years ago, it cost me $80, these days it's included with the radio. For my station I needed a second mount and I really didn't want to spend that much money on three cables and some plastic, so I went hunting for alternatives. One of my friends is doing some 3D printing R&D for his job and has access to a printer to do some rapid prototyping and I wondered if that might be an option.

    Turns out that I'm late to the party, people have been designing and printing bits for their radios for years.

    A quick hunt through the popular 3D printing libraries showed about 500 different designs for Yaesu, Elecraft, Baofeng, ICOM and Kenwood, though I should point out that Kenwood also makes food processors and other bits that seem popular in the 3D printing world, so 500 is likely a little high, but respectable nonetheless.

    I looked at 8 different libraries and found that Thingiverse is by far the most popular for bits with radio brands we know and love. It occurred to me that right here is thr perfect example of how amateur radio is a hobby that just grows and grows.

    If you're looking for radio mounts, stands, buttons, microphone clips, belt clips, mount adaptors, holders, cradles, plug covers, brackets, earpiece retainers, logos, callsign stands, cogs, gears, handles, caps, pins, latches, cases, tuning knobs, CW key brackets, stacking brackets, antenna adaptors, feet, desk stands, shoulder strap holders, battery compartments, you're good to go.

    I should mention that you don't even need to invest in a 3D printer at this point, you can hand the design to a printing service and get your print shipped to you in the mail.

    If you cannot find what you're looking for, you can fire up a 3D CAD program and get designing to make something precisely to your own specifications and based on the current tools available, you can even see what it's going to look like by the time it's rendered in the plastic and colour of your choice.

    I've only mentioned radio bits, but there's nothing stopping you from printing ladder line separators, dipole centres, antenna brackets, tuner cases, project cases for your home-brew contraption, knobs and dials, buttons and connectors and other missing parts or hard to find pieces.

    If you're using standard components like a Raspberry Pi or Arduino, you'll find cases ready to go for those as well, so the more you look, the more you'll find.

    The point of all this is that amateur radio is a hobby that goes far beyond someone sitting behind a radio listening to beeps, pops and crackles. Manufacturing and amateur radio go hand-in-hand and have done since the very beginning, but there's no rule that says that you have to keep using traditional tools to build what you're imagining.

    The sky is the limit, and based on the efforts of CAMRAS, the CA Muller Radio Astronomy Station, PI9CAM based at the Dwingeloo Radio Telescope in the Netherlands, who captured a photo of the far side of the moon using a camera linked to an amateur radio transceiver on board of the Chinese Longjiang-2 satellite, even that limit is being explored.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    How effective is your station? Feb 10, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    We tend to spend most of our energy looking at antennas and power to evaluate how well our station works. Based on a better antenna or more power, you're likely to make more contacts is the general gist of the process.

    Being a QRP operator, power rarely comes into the conversation, 5 Watts is what you get, leaving antennas as the prime method of discovering how effective we can be.

    Recently I received an email from Layne AE1N, pointing me at an article he wrote on the Nashua Area Radio Society website titled: It's all about the decibels - factors in enhancing station effectiveness.

    The article, goes into great detail in looking at an alternative way of measuring how well you're doing and builds on the December 2013 QST article - How Much Punch Can You Get from Different Modes?

    In our hobby we measure using a thing called the decibel. I've spoken about it at great length previously. The way to use it is to compare something against something else. Using the metric used in the QST article we take as a starting point a modern transceiver, using 100 Watts, CW into a half-wave dipole at 30m.

    Everything we're discussing from here on in, is related to that starting point, the zero point. I should also make clear that we're talking about the ability of the receiver to decode your message, not the strength of the signal.

    If you were to use the same radio and instead of using CW, used AM, you'd have a station that was 27 dB worse off. That is, your signal would effectively become harder to hear by 27 decibel. On the other hand, you if were to replace the half-wave dipole with a 4 element Yagi, your station would be just under 7 dB better off, that is, it would be easier to hear you by 7 dB.

    Of course you can combine AM and the Yagi, adding the two measurements together, coming out at minus 20 dB, which means that compared to a 100 Watt transmission on CW into a half-wave dipole, the same 100 Watt transmission on AM into a 4 element Yagi would still be harder to hear by 20 dB.

    If you go from CW to SSB, you'd be 17 dB worse off, or SSB is 10 dB better than AM.

    Note that when I say better and worse, it's about how much your signal can be decoded at the other end, using the same receiver, antenna, etc.

    The whole article includes comparisons between CW and FM, CW and RTTY and so-on. RTTY is only 4 dB worse than CW, but most transceiver manufacturers recommend that you reduce power to a quarter power, that is, 25 Watt instead of 100 Watt when using RTTY or Digital modes, so you end up losing 14 dB for that, making RTTY slightly worse than SSB if you follow the manufacturer instructions to reduce power.

    This isn't all doom and gloom however. Even though CW is very effective, we can improve things in other ways. For example, using PSK31 gives you a 7 dB head start, switching from CW to JT65 or FT8 gives you 25 dB. Even if you take into account the reduction from the loss of full power, 14 dB, you still end up in front by 11 decibel, which is more than you can get from upping power from 100 Watt to 400 Watt which only gets you 6 dB.

    Adding an 11 element Yagi gives you a similar improvement as changing from CW to FT8, just over 11 dB, and using 1500 Watts is only slightly better at 12 dB.

    The point I'm making is that you can use this idea to figure out how to get your signal heard. More power or a bigger antenna is only part of the conversation, picking the correct mode is just as important.

    Of course, the 11 dB gain you get from moving from CW to FT8, even when reducing power, is one of the main reasons that it's so popular, much easier to change mode than to build a new fancy antenna.

    One more thing, what of the 5 Watts vs. 100 Watts we started with, 13 dB. That's significant, but if you were to use 5 Watts FT8 into a quarter-wave dipole, using 100% of the 5 Watts, you'll actually be 12 dB better off than the same station using 100 Watts CW.

    Check out Layne's article for a reference to QST and a whole lot more. It's a very useful way of looking at how your station can be very effective, even if you're QRP.

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


    How to select a mobile operating location Feb 03, 2019
    Show notes

    Foundations of Amateur Radio

    Operating your amateur radio station at home, in your shack, is one of the often discussed aspects of our hobby. Much has been said about installation, antennas, grounding and the like, but what if you want to operate mobile?

    Picking a location, of all the locations available to you, can be quite the task. For some it's daunting, others find it challenging, others take to it with ease and often you find yourself overwhelmed by choice. What makes a good operating location, what should you look for and how do you do this better?

    First thing to consider is that options give you choice, choice gives you uncertainty, which can lead to stress and other unpleasantness. If you're completely flummoxed as to how to select a location, visit the Summits On The Air website, or the World Wide Flora and Fauna site and see which of the qualifying locations is reachable for you.

    The choice becomes much easier if you don't have a choice. Picking from a proscribed list makes it easier to start and the more you do it, the more you'll learn about what makes a good operating location and what doesn't.

    Restricting your options is one path to success, but there are others.

    Over the years I've poured over maps, looked at places that qualified, tried and failed, many times.

    Things I look for when I am hunting for a new place to operate from include the ability for my car to get there. I live in Australia, often shade is a consideration, away from buildings and other sources of interference. I tend to go for places that have water nearby, preferably the ocean, but I also frequent lakes and rivers. If I'm operating on VHF and UHF for a local contest I might look for a high point, something that has clear line of sight to the local amateur community, in my case a high hill or the local ranges overlooking the city basin.

    For one contest I needed to visit local shires and to do that I created a map showing all the shire boundaries. I then used that map to scout possible locations and took into account how to get from this shire to the next. I learnt from that exercise that the ground beneath the operating location matters, sand versus gravel, gravel versus granite, granite versus swamp. I also learnt that overhead power lines are hard to spot on a map, but avoiding them is essential to success.

    Depending on how long you plan to operate for, an hour, a day, the weekend, select a location based on the time that you're there. Picking an isolated jetty where there is potential for crime in the middle of the night is probably best for day-time activations, but might need reconsideration for an overnight adventure.

    Picking a local park might be possible for 24 hours, but the local ranger might not appreciate you setting up a more permanent camp.

    Often planning works to your advantage. The local council might appreciate you having a chat with them before a contest and might even offer you assistance in the form of local facilities, running water, etc. Consider using the local public open space with a community hall as your base.

    There's a balance to be found between preparation and turning up on the day. If the location is something that you're only visiting for an hour, you won't need to scout, unless you're planning on a particularly elusive DX contact, but setting up camp for 48 hours with tents, masts, coax and operating positions will benefit from a visit before the actual event.

    Make sure that you bring along a radio that can operate on the bands that you're planning to operate on and remember to turn it on and have a listen. I can tell you that driving for 90km to scout a location and forgetting to actually turn on the radio is an experience that I cannot recommend.

    There are many places to choose from. Radio considerations aside, I mentioned shade before. The environment is important. You don't want to set-up on the side of a highway with fast moving traffic, or in a location where people will come right up to your station to get to their cars. You don't want to select a large car park where others will, for inexplicable reasons, park right next to you.

    Boat ramps and jetties are good, a national park is great, a beach-side car park, the top of a hill, next to a river, are the kinds of places where you'll find an operating position that will get your mobile station up and running.

    Bring along stuff. Batteries, squid-poles, rope, wire, spare coax, a table, water, a chair, your logbook, a box of tools, the little things that will give you options for when something unexpected happens, like the tree you were planning to use is further away than expected, or the shade moved, or the rubbish bin on site is just a little too close for comfort. Also bring fly spray, a rain coat, some food and consider any other things that might affect your enjoyment. Essentially, build in some flexibility.

    I'll leave you with this question. What operating positions have you used and how successful were they?

    I'm Onno VK6FLAB


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