Climbing Gold &#8211; Duct Tape Then Beer

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The Devil's Climb Oct 25, 2024

Last summer, Alex and Tommy Caldwell rode bikes from Estes Park, Colorado to SE Alaska where they boarded a sailboat which dropped them beneath the fabled Devil’s Thumb. Their adventure is now a film on Disney+, but a lot of the experience got left on the cutting room floor. We sat down with Tommy and their photographer/wingman, Taylor Shaffer, to dive deeper into the journey.

The Devil's Climb trailer

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Saving Cochamó Oct 18, 2024

Tucked away in a corner of Chilean Patagonia, Valle Cochamó wasn’t going to stay hidden forever. The soaring unclimbed granite walls instilled dreams of first ascents in climbers. Industrialists eyed its free flowing rivers with their potential for hydroelectric power. Conservationists hoped it could provide a final puzzle piece of an incredible protected wildlife corridor. To the families who live there, it was simply home where they ranched amidst the 3,000-year-old Alerce trees. This is the story of how a coalition of Chilean gauchos, climbers and activists fought off development efforts for two decades. Now there is an opportunity for a lasting conservation victory. How do you make the next Yosemite? You start by buying it.

Donate today: https://bit.ly/SavingCochamo

This episode was produced in collaboration with The Dirtbag Diaries. Listen to all episodes on Apple Podcasts or Spotify

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Jamie Logan: Going The Distance Oct 11, 2024

5.13 at 78. That’s staggering, but the numbers don’t capture the breadth of Jamie Logan’s climbing career, which now spans seven decades. Through every chapter of our sport, Jamie has been a contributor from pioneering free climbing in the 1960’s to leading design trends of the modern gym. The risk she took in her 70’s may ultimately prove to be the most lasting pillar of her legacy. Never be afraid of who you are.

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Cory Richards: The Unquiet Mind Oct 04, 2024

Alpinist and photographer Cory Richards was living at full speed. A steady stream of Himalayan expeditions and assignments from National Geographic kept him relentlessly moving around the world. Meanwhile, his long struggle with bi-polar disorder, PTSD, alcoholism, and sex addiction hit new lows until Cory’s world came undone. Today, Cory’s stepped away from both climbing and photography, has written two books and in a lot of ways, is happier than he’s ever been.

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Lynn Hill: A Magician Needs A Stage Sep 27, 2024

El Cap. Free. In a day. Putting those words on your resume puts you in the league of legends. How did that become the bar? Lynn Hill. A singular athlete who stepped up to the biggest stage in climbing, Lynn redefined what was athletically possible not just for her generation, but generations to come. Emily Harrington and Beth Rodden add their perspective on the momentous achievement.

“It Goes Boys” poster

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Margo Hayes: Renaissance Woman Sep 20, 2024

Ms. 5.15 – that was the moniker the climbing world bestowed on Margo Hayes after she became the first woman to climb the grade. Two more 5.15’s followed and Margo seemed poised to be a defining climber of her generation. Yet, in the background, Margo was quietly struggling with Lyme disease and exploring other interests when she wasn’t healthy enough to give climbing her all. What does a professional climber owe their sport, their community, and what do they owe themselves?

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Babsi and Jacopo: The Flame Burns Bright Sep 13, 2024

While most of the elite climbing world has turned its attention to raw difficulty in sport and bouldering, Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have been carrying the torch for hard, sometimes dangerous, traditional climbing. We talk about Eternal Flame, managing risk and getting sandbagged in Yosemite.

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Beth Rodden: A Light Through The Cracks Sep 06, 2024

Beth Rodden started climbing in 1995, and it wasn’t long before she radically changed the sport. Within three years, she’d become the first woman to climb 5.14; within five, she established a still unrepeated free route on Yosemite’s El Capitan. Today, Beth is making waves in a different way: by leading the climbing community in difficult, vulnerable conversations. Fitz chats with Beth about her new book, A Light Through The Cracks, and what it means to live a big life.

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Give and Take Aug 30, 2024

After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many climbers hoped he would fail. We take a peek into the early days of the Access Fund and Leici Hendrix adds perspective on the importance of local climbing organizations.

Originally aired in 2021.

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Soviet Speed Aug 23, 2024

In 1986, a rag-tag group of dirtbags including Beth Wald, Russ Clune and Todd Skinner came up with a scheme to go behind the Iron Curtain with the goal of competing in the Soviet Union's speed climbing competition. It was audacious as any cutting edge climb. Originally aired in 2021.

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Alex Goes To Paris: Olympic Recap Aug 16, 2024

Adieu Paris. After a week at the Olympic games, Alex and the team reflect on an incredible moment for climbing and its brightest competitors.

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The North Face: Join Alex and TNF in NYC at Climb Fest, August 23-24

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Vertical Drag Race: Part 2 Aug 09, 2024

The Tomoa Skip. The Chinese Top. Records are falling and what is fast this year will be middle of the pack next year. For competitors Emma Hunt, Piper Kelly, and Sam Watson, they are in the midst of a golden moment for their chosen discipline. For the climbers leading the charge, what’s beyond personal bests and world records? And how will the climbers apply these incredible skills beyond the 15-meter route?

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The North Face: Join us in NYC for Climb Fest Aug 23-24

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Vertical Drag Race: Part 1 Aug 02, 2024

Records are falling. Beta is getting tweaked. We’ve entered the sub five second era of speed climbing. The athleticism is off the charts and the format is friendly to the viewing public. Despite that, what happens on the 15 meter speed wall seems to be a sideshow to the greater climbing community. How did speed climbing arrive at this moment? We are joined by legends Hans Florine, Jacky Godoffe, and Olympians Sam Watson, Piper Kelly and Emma Hunt.

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Paris Preview Jul 26, 2024

Paris here we go. Today, we dive into what to expect, the stories that will define the games, and the Olympics’ impact on our sport. Plus we make our picks and learn what the deal is with Team Japan.

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Great Expectations Jul 19, 2024

The weight of expectations is real. Today, Olympians Natalia Grossman and Jesse Grupper share their journey through the highs and lows of winning and losing. Even when you're winning, the road to Paris is a difficult path.

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Brooke Raboutou: Paris Bound Jul 12, 2024

At only 23, Brooke Raboutou has established herself as one of the best climbers indoors and out. While that’s taken an extreme amount of talent and dedication, Brooke and two other Olympians, Natalia Grossman and Colin Duffy, are graduates of a groundbreaking approach to climbing created by Brooke’s mom Robyn Ebersfield-Raboutou. Climbing has a lot to teach about life.

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War Games Jul 05, 2024

Yes, the Olympics are entertainment, but they can also transcend sport. Ukrainian climber Jenya Kazbekova carries a weight few competitors have to shoulder. Two years into Russia’s unprovoked attack on her home, Jenya is channeling the strength of her country into competing in Paris. She just hopes the world doesn’t forget Ukraine.

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Ashima Shiraishi: The Competitor's Mind Jun 28, 2024

What’s Ashima Shiraishi been up to? Since she was eight, Ashima made waves with staggering ascents beyond her years. In 2021, Ashima helped bring us into the mind of a competitor walking us through in meticulous detail of what it’s like to compete in a World Cup. Today, we reshare that short segment and then find out about Ashima’s new path through climbing far from the spotlight of the competitive circuit.

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Head Games Jun 21, 2024

When we think of cutting edge climbing, we think of cutting edge athleticism. But what about the mental side? The true test of finishing the world’s most difficult routes may not come down to strength, but mental fitness. Today, we are joined by Jonathan Siegrist to discuss the mental hurdles climbers experience. Sometimes you have to let go to hang on.

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Kai Lightner: Return To Form Jun 14, 2024

Kai Lightner is on a tear. When we last spoke with Kai, his path in professional climbing was unclear. He’d struggled with disordered eating, injuries, and growing into his adult body after a decade of success in competition and his path back to the upper limits of climbing seemed uncertain. Last year, Kai turned his attention to climbing outside and took the emphasis off results. An incredible string of sends followed, and once again Kai has found himself at the forefront.

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Sierra Blair: Ahead of the Curve Jun 07, 2024

A decade ago, climbing’s most controversial figure wasn’t someone who’d lied, chopped routes, or chipped holds. It was a young woman who’d savvily harnessed the internet and social media to power her competitive career. Unintentionally, Sierra Blair became a lightning rod. Today, Sierra’s approach might simply be considered best practice for an athlete on social media, but a decade ago it sparked conversations about who gets to call themselves an athlete or a “real” climber, and it exposed a vein of misogyny flowing through our sport. With that period firmly in the rearview mirror and climbing harder than ever, Sierra shares her journey through climbing, professionalism, and the Internet.

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Gentlemen's Race To 9a May 31, 2024

Sometimes we all need healthy competition. Last summer Alex, Tommy Caldwell, and Sonnie Trotter hatched a plan – each would attempt to climb 9a in the coming year. Climbing at your limit demands attention and accountability, something each was struggling with on their own. Together, the goal seemed a little more probable.

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Put Me In Coach May 24, 2024

When Kris Hampton launched the Power Company, training for climbing was in an awkward adolescence. Research and tactics were woefully behind adjacent sports like gymnastics. Gym sessions were a stop gap for time outside and training programs were the realm of competitive youth teams and a few hardened professionals. We dive into the evolution of training, the difference between a coach and a trainer, and how close we are to the limits of human possibility.

Written in Stone Kris' podcast

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Climbing With Kids May 17, 2024

News flash: having kids changes things. Paige Claassen and Emily Harrington join Alex to discuss the new normal, reaching limits while sleep deprived and the calculus of risk as they move into parenthood.

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The Adam Ondra Episode May 10, 2024

For the last decade, no climber has moved our sport closer to the future than Adam Ondra. While he’s known for his visionary sport routes, he’s excelled in every aspect of rock climbing from competition to big walls. Adam sat down for a wide ranging interview to talk about the limits of what’s humanly possible, the Olympics and shiver bivying on El Cap with his father.

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Memphis Rox Needs Your Help Mar 22, 2024

We will be back later this spring with all new episodes of Climbing Gold, but in the meantime we wanted to rerun an episode from our first season: “This Place Will Change Climbing”. We dive into what makes Memphis Rox a unique climbing gym. And right now, Memphis Rox needs the climbing community to step up and help them through a tough financial moment. Good ideas need champions.

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Adapted Part 2 Dec 15, 2023

In Part 2 of Adapted, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing head to the Lotus Flower Tower. Hugh Herr embarks on life after climbing and tackles one of humanity’s greatest challenges. Denny Kowska seeks to build an adaptive community from the ground up.

Resources

Hugh Herr's Ted Talk

Jim Ewing's Film Adaptive

ParaCliffHangers

Paradox Sports

Adaptive Climbing Group

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Adapted Part 1 Dec 08, 2023

Climbing’s first phenom survives a near death experience and life altering accident on Mount Washington. In rural Maine, a young girl born without a hand discovers climbing. In the aftermath of an accident, an engineer resolves to complete a lifelong dream. Hugh Herr, Mo Beck and Jim Ewing take us on a journey in a two part series about human potential, generational friendships and the power of climbing.

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Roundtable: Style Dec 01, 2023

Style vs substance-- they are one and the same in climbing. It governs how we aspire to do routes. It inspires us. Done right, it will stand the test of time. Today, we sit down with climber Katie Lambert and photographer Ben Ditto.

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The Fighter Nov 24, 2023

When protests erupted in Iran in fall of 2022, human rights activist and professional climber Nasim Eshqi was climbing in France. As she watched the uprising back home unfold, Nasim knew that returning home at that moment would mean arrest and imprisonment at the hands of the government. She doubled down on her criticism of Iran’s repressive regime and used her climbing to bring the struggle to the international climbing community.

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Roundtable: Safety Police Nov 17, 2023

Underground legend and editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, Pete Takeda joins us to talk safety. We can learn from mistakes, but sometimes it’s worth speaking up before they happen.

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The Greatest Lie Chapter 4: Belief Nov 10, 2023

After successfully establishing the first fair means ascent of Cerro Torre’s SE Ridge and chopping Maestri’s bolt ladder, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk smash into reality. In the mountains, a rescue for their friend is under way. In El Chaltén, frustration boils over and the police get involved. Meanwhile, David Lama heads back up the mountain. Years later, the community reflects on the Cerro Torre.

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The Greatest Lie Chapter 3: Fair Means Nov 03, 2023

In the 2000’s, a new, global generation of alpinists armed with a broad toolkit of skills and advancements in weather forecasting led a climbing golden age in Patagonia. While popular, Maestri’s Compressor Route becomes the target of climbers looking to leave a lasting impression on the sport.

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Roundtable: Liar, Liar Oct 27, 2023

How big of a problem is lying in climbing? Jonathan Siegrist returns to the show to talk about dishonesty in our sport.

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The Greatest Lie Chapter 2: Disneyland Oct 20, 2023

With doubts circling in the press, Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with hundreds of bolts, a compressor engine and gallons of gasoline intent on conquering the mountain. What ensues borders on madness leaving the next generation to untangle Maestri’s lies and correct an abomination.

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The Greatest Lie Chapter 1: The Queen & The Pawns Oct 13, 2023

In 1959, Cesare Maestri, an outsider and rebel drawn to the siren song of the world’s fiercest mountain, Cerro Torre, ripped a hole in climbing’s only true rule – a climber is only as good as their word.

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Full Circle Jun 30, 2023

In May 2022, The Full Circle Everest team made history when seven of the members reached the world’s highest point. They were the first all black expedition team to do so. Today, we talk with Phil Henderson, Adina Scott and Eddie Taylor about their experiences on Chomolungma and the power of summits.

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The Greatest Climb Jun 23, 2023

Is reaching a summit the true measure of success or is there something deeper? In 1978 a dream team of alpinists – Jim Donini, Jeff Lowe, George Lowe, and Michael Kennedy – spent 26 days tackling the North Ridge of Latok 1 in the Karakoram range and came up just short of the summit after illness struck. Their attempt became legend and a testament to the power of friendship. The North Ridge suddenly became the most coveted alpine climb on the planet, rebuffing new generations of climbers for the next 40 years.

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Roundtable: Should We Make Old Routes Safer? Jun 16, 2023

A route’s history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America’s best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss.

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Board Games Jun 09, 2023

We journey through the world of Moonboarding with the world’s best – Ravioli Biceps. And Ben Moon walks us through the underground climbing trend that started in the cellars of Sheffield, England and has now spread across the globe. Everybody can play. Everybody can contribute. Everybody can connect.

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Roundtable: The Route That Changed My Life Jun 02, 2023

Could a route change you? Kareemah Batts joins Alex, Fitz, Lauren and Leici to talk about the routes that changed what they thought was possible.

Adaptive Climbing Group

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Our Best Is Always Changing May 26, 2023

In April of 2022, Anna Pfaff set out to tick an Alaska classic – the Harvard Route on Mount Huntington. With her partner Priti Wright, Anna romped up the 3,000 foot face of ice, rock and snow, but the climb would prove to be a life changing experience. Frostbite would force doctors to amputate most of her toes. As a professional athlete, Anna would have to come to terms with her new best.

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Elijah Kiser on Levity (V14)

Not So Mellow May 19, 2023

The next generation needs its inspiration. The Mellow crew provides it. Between sends of the world's hardest boulders, Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Giuliano Cameroni and Jimmy Webb took climbing media into their own hands, authoring YouTube ready videos of climbing’s cutting edge with an aesthetic more akin to skate films than National Geographic.

Shawn on Spectre (V13)

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Roundtable: Strength Vs Technique May 12, 2023

Philosophy professor and member of the exclusive 5.14 after 60 club, Bill Ramsey has a bone to pick with those who value strength over technique. In this roundtable discussion, we dive into our bias towards power and Bill’s concept of the pain box. Nothing’s worse than the pain of sucking.

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The Dark Horse May 05, 2023

Quiet and humble, Lucho Rivera was the antithesis to the wild, loud and over the top antics of the Stone Monkey generation. Yet in that band of misfits, he found a home. Now, after three decades of climbing in Yosemite, Lucho may have made the greatest contribution of his generation to the Valley’s history.

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Hot Henry Apr 28, 2023

In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own.

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