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    Bark n Wag 15 Minute Vet Talk

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    Latest Episodes:
    Tips on your dog walking nicely with Kersti from the Dog Training Camp USA Mar 03, 2019
    Show notes

    Step 1: Training Your Dog to Walk on a Leash

    Introduce him to the collar or harness and leash. Start out by letting him get used to wearing a collar or harness and a leash. Let him wear them for short periods of time, in the house, during which you are playing with him and giving him treats. The puppy should love "collar and leash time" because it represents food and fun.

    Teach a cue. Introduce your puppy to a sound cue that means "food is coming." Some people like to click and treat, some people use a word like "Yes," and some people cluck their tongue. Whichever you use, the method is the same: In a quiet, distraction free area, with the puppy on a leash and collar, make the sound. The second your puppy turns toward you and/or looks at you, reward him with a treat. After a few repetitions, you'll notice your puppy not only looking at you, but also coming over to you for the treat.

    Make him come to you. While he's on his way to you, still wearing the leash and collar, back up a few paces and then reward when he gets to you. Continue the progression until your puppy, upon hearing the cue noise, comes to you and walks with you a few paces. Remember that puppies have short attention spans, so keep your sessions short, and end them when your puppy is still eager to do more, not when he's mentally exhausted.

    Practice inside. Now that your puppy understands how to come to you, practice walking a few steps in a room with little distraction. Feeling and seeing the leash around him will be enough of a challenge. Offer treats and praise as your puppy gets used to coming to you, as described above, with a leash on.

    Take it outside. Finally, you're ready to test your puppy's skills in the Great Outdoors. There will be new challenges with this step as all the sounds, smells, and sights your puppy encounters will be both intriguing and new to him. Be patient; keep the first walks short. While you're on a walk, if your puppy looks as if he's about to lunge towards something or is about to get distracted (you'll notice this because you will keep your eyes on him at all times!), make your cue sound, and move a few steps away and reward his following you with a treat.

    Step 2: Leash-Training Troubleshooting

    As perfect as you want to pretend your puppy is, you're likely going to run into some issues as he learns to walk on a leash. (And eventually, you'll want to teach him loose-leash walkingso that he can pass his Canine Good Citizen test!) Here are a few tips on what to do if you're having trouble, courtesy of the AKC GoodDog! Helpline.

    If he pulls: If your dog starts pulling in the other direction, turn yourself into "a tree." Stand very still and refuse to move until your dog comes back to you. Do not yank or jerk the leash, and do not drag your dog along with you. Alternative harnesses, like front-hook harnesses, and head halters are designed for dogs that tend to pull.

    If he lunges: If your dog is going after something while on a walk — another dog, a car, or skateboarder, for example, try to redirect his attention with a treat before he has a chance to lunge and create space between you and the target. Be proactive. Get prepared before the target of his frustration gets too close. This type of behavior is more common in herding breeds, who like to chase.

    If he barks: Some dogs have the habit of barking at other dogs while on a walk. Oftentimes, this behavior comes as a result of lack of exercise. Make sure your dog gets the proper amount of mental and physical stimulation for his breed. If this is still a problem, use the same process as you would if your dog is lunging at a ca r— create distance and offer treats before he starts to bark.

    Gradually you'll reduce the amount of treats and troubleshooting that your puppy needs during a walk, but you'll always have some on hand to randomly reinforce good leash walking behavior!

    Having trouble with these or other puppy behaviors? Contact the experts at the AKC GoodDog! Helpline for personalized tips and techniques.


    Helping a shy dog out of its shell with dog trainer Steve Feb 20, 2019
    Show notes

    Tied outside the entrance of a café, the young Border Collie-mix paced and panted. An approaching couple, assuming that a dog tethered outside of a café would be friendly, moved toward him to say hello. But before they could get within five feet, he erupted into a frenzy of barks and shrieks and then urinated. The dog's person rushed out, coffee in hand. "Sorry—he's a bit shy," she said, the dog cowering into her. Untying the dog, she quickly led him away down the street.

    For a "normal" dog, this would have been a welcome encounter. But for a chronically shy dog, something as simple as a casual hello from a stranger can be a terrifying experience. It goes without saying that this timid dog should never have been left out there alone, waiting to fail.

    This example is an extreme case of shyness (extreme shyness can look like aggression), but there's a whole spectrum of timidity. Read on to determine if your dog is shy and how you can use confidence boosting exercises to help her feel at ease.

    Is Your Dog Shy? Signs of Shyness Typically, a dog's behaviour and body posture will alert you to his timidity. A shy dog might exhibit any or all of the following:

    • Ears flattened back to the head
    • Cowering posture
    • Shying away from interactions with other dogs and/or people
    • Tail tucked between the legs
    • Panting or shaking
    • Dilated, glassy eyes
    • Skulking, pacing, hiding, or escaping
    • Whining or barking
    • Raised hackles
    • Fear of eye contact
    • Sneering, nipping or biting
    • Submissive urination

    Some shy dogs exhibit shy behaviour only toward people, while others show it only toward dogs. Many, though, will display the behavior toward both, or even in stressful situations that don't involve a person or dog. Thunder, fireworks, traffic, or any unpredictable circumstance can trigger a shy dog into a panic.

    Why Shy? Causes of chronic timidity in dogs are numerous, and include one or more of the following:

    • Hereditary predisposition
    • Improper socialization during the first eight weeks of life
    • Traumatic occurrence during the first "fear imprint" stage, from 8–11 weeks
    • Chronic abuse
    • Injury or attack
    • Medical issues, including hearing loss, thyroid imbalance, epilepsy, or chronic pain
    • Rescue dogs in particular can suffer from shyness, due not only to trauma associated with being in a noisy shelter with many unknown dogs, but from the abrupt (and often serial) termination of comforting relationships with an adoptive family. When a dog is abruptly denied the comfort of a reliable, loving situation, and deprived of any dependable routine, he can develop anti-social tendencies.

    Don't! There are certain situations and actions you should attempt to avoid with your timid, fearful dog. They include:

    • Tethering her outside an establishment such as a café, store or library while you go inside. People coming and going will try to pet her; this will reinforce her fears, and perhaps cause a biting incident.
    • Forcing your dog into a fearful situation, thinking it's a "sink-or-swim" solution. It will only make things worse!
    • Telling friends and strangers to make eye contact with her and to reach out to greet her. Instead, let your dog initiate the greeting.
    • Having large, boisterous groups in the home. Putting her into a room or a crate will make matters worse, because she can still hear the noise, but not go anywhere to avoid it. Only use the crate or room if it is located far enough away for her to not hear the stimulus. The hectic activity of children should particularly be avoided.
    • Overbearing training styles.
    • Forcing a shy, hiding dog out from under tables, sofas or chairs when scared. Instead, let her come out of her own accord. If you must get her out, keep a leash on her in the home and use it to coax her out. Then have her sit for a treat.
    • Taking her into chaotic urban environs or areas with unpredictable activity, such as a skateboard park or a fireworks display. Instead, always think ahead, and choose venues you know won't panic her.

    How to Help a Bashful Dog Enjoy the Finer Things in Life: Easing a Shy Dog's Worries Via Confidence Building Exercises

    Though you may not be able to turn a shy dog into a socialite, there are techniques you can use to ease the stress and raise a timid pooch's confidence. These include:

    Obedience training A shy dog that knows exactly what you are asking of her will be less likely to panic. It's essential to teach your timid dog the basic commands, especially "Sit," "Stay," and "Come." Never use an overbearing, intimidating style, and avoid yelling or undo emotion. Stay calm and supportive, but avoid coddling and over-the-top, exaggerated praise. Treats and toys are helpful tools to keep her mood upbeat during training. Begin teaching all new behaviours in a quiet indoor spot with no distractions. Then, over time, gradually introduce distractions, such as a friend reading a newspaper, a football game on the television, or kids playing outside a window. Eventually take the obedience outside. If your shy dog is liable to run off when scared, keep a leash on her.

    Doggie Mentors Professional trainers often enlist the help of a confident, laid back canine helper. When a timid dog sees the confident helper dog playing, sitting for treats, and enjoying herself, he will often relax and join in on the fun. If your shy dog has a doggie friend she knows and trusts, by all means, use that "mentor dog" to help in the training and socialization process. If your timid dog doesn't like other canines, try including a person she trusts.

    Subtle Socialization Nervous dogs often don't respond well to the standard socialization techniques that other dogs do. Busy parks, streets or active homes can send them into a panic and make the problem worse. Instead, be subtle. Have a friend sit quietly in the same room as the dog and randomly drop treats onto the floor. No eye contact or communication; just treats. Over time, this will get your shy dog to associate that person with something good. Once he trusts that person enough to regularly take the treats, continue with the person standing. Then move the venue to another room, or into the yard. Slowly, you'll relax the dog enough so that the friend can go with you on walks and even take the leash. Repeat this with other friends until your dog has a small cadre of trusty human pals.

    Game time! Worried dogs have a hard time enjoying life. To break the worry cycle, teach your dog to play games such as "Fetch" or "Hide-and-Seek." She will relax and simply be a dog for a while. If she has a dog friend, include him or her in the fun. Schedule at least three play sessions each day. If you can, change up the venue, so that eventually she will feel comfortable playing within sight of strangers or unpredictable activity.

    Timid dogs have a "worry radius" that is fairly predictable; as long as something or someone stays outside this distance, the dog is usually fine. If you can, try to reduce this distance ever so slowly, over time, while playing games. After several months, you should be able to play games within plain sight of activity. (Keep a leash on her if the area is unfenced.)

    Trick and Treat Teaching tricks to your shy dog will help her focus and stay out of "worry" mode. And, they teach her positive cause and effect—if she performs the trick, she gets a treat. It may sound simplistic, but, for a nervous dog, just learning that they can initiate a reliable, predictable interaction can be a great comfort.

    Any tricks will work. "Shake," "Spin," "Roll over"—whatever you think your dog can master is good.

    Exercise A tired dog is less apt to worry than one that has pent up energy. To that end, try to get your dog as much exercise as possible on a daily basis. Go for walks in areas where he's not apt to panic. Jog or bike with him. Play fetch or Frisbee—whatever gets him tired will calm him and keep his mind off of worries. (Ever been so ridiculously overtired on a long-haul flight that you didn't fret the turbulence as you normally would? Same principle. It's remarkably effective.)

    Directed Walks If your shy dog fears other dogs, the normal canine greeting procedure—a nose-to-nose, nose-to tail, play-posturing ritual—should be replaced with a technique called the "directed walk." Instead of letting the leashed dogs greet, simply walk them briskly, with as much space between each dog as needed to prevent your own shy dog from panicking. Walk them quickly, right at your dog's "worry radius," and don't allow contact. It should be a no-nonsense, directed walk, as if you are all on a mission. Keeping them moving!

    After a few minutes, have each sit about ten to fifteen feet apart, and reward. Then move on, and repeat. Over time (days if need be), reduce the "worry radius" incrementally, but don't feel obliged to have the dogs greet each other unless it's completely obvious from their body postures that they want to. The idea is to get your timid dog to think there is something important going on that takes precedent over her fears. This "teaming" drill is a vital tool in conditioning her to like other dogs.

    Desensitizing By pairing a marvelous experience with a worrisome one, you can slowly desensitize your timid dog to stimuli that cause her worry. For instance, if she fears the sound of a vacuum, try this: record the sound of the vacuum on your cell phone. Then, with the volume set down to barely audible, have her sit then give her a treat while simultaneously playing the audio. If necessary, have a partner operate the audio from a distance while you work with your dog. Over a few days, increase the volume while treating. Also, try playing her favourite games while the audio plays. The trick is to increase the volume slowly, over time, and to never reward the dog when she reacts poorly to the sound. These "counter-conditioning" drills should over time get her to actually look forward to the sounds, because they signal a payday.

    Scent Work Teaching your timid dog to find scent-rich items hidden around the home is a great way to get her mind off of her troubles and build her confidence. Start off by hiding a treat in plain sight then telling her to "Find-it!" Lead her to it if need be then praise and say "Good Find-it!" As she improves, make them harder to find. Use different treats and other scent-rich items, such as another dog's hair, a feather, or even a slip of paper with some lavender oil on it. Success will boost her confidence!

    Routine and Trigger Reduction Most importantly, reduce the possibility of failure by setting your dog up for success. Maintain a predictable routine for your shy dog and keep the home as free from triggers as possible. Desensitize very, very slowly, as you gradually expand her pack to include select trusted humans and dogs. Once you realize that you are managing a personality disorder more than curing a bad behavior, you and your shy dog will make great strides towards minimizing her fears so she can enjoy life.

    Teaching a shy dog to be less timid By Steve Duno | Illustration by Kara Pyle

    What is CBD oil? Lisa, owner of Animal Lover's in Breckenridge, discusses CBD products. Feb 10, 2019
    Show notes

    What Is CBD?

    CBD, or cannabidiol, is a compound found in cannabis, the plant we often associate with marijuana.

    In fact, it is one of over 113 "cannabinoids" found in the cannabis plant, many of which are also being investigated for their potential health benefits.

    Now, keep this in mind:

    CBD won't get your pet "high". You can read more about that here.

    Unlike THC, the main psychoactive compound in marijuana, CBD is completely non psychoactive and safe to be used on pets.

    CBD also has no known toxicity level, and is incapable of causing an overdose.

    In fact, the CBD found in cannabis pet supplements is usually sourced from hemp, a variety of cannabis that naturally contains extremely low concentrations of THC.

    How Does CBD Interact With the Body?

    CBD interacts with the body via the endocannabinoid system, or ECS.

    While I'll likely discuss the ECS in more detail in other posts, here are some basics on how this system works.

    The ECS is a biological system found in all mammals, and is involved in managing a wide variety of biological processes, including memory, sleep, immune response, and more.

    It mainly consists of two types of cannabinoid receptors (CB1 and CB2).

    These receptors are built to interact with endocannabinoids (cannabinoids naturally produced by the brain).

    However, they can also interact with plant-derived cannabinoids like CBD, which in turn cause a variety of responses throughout the body.

    When it comes to CBD, many of these responses are very beneficial.

    The endocannabinoid system is essentially the system that processes cannabinoids introduced into the body.

    Below I'll outline some of the main benefits of CBD in more detail.

    Note that most of these findings come from studies on lab animals (like rats) or clinical trials on humans.

    Nonetheless, the effects of CBD are similar in humans, dogs, cats, and other pets.

    This is because, just like humans, dogs and cats also have an endocannabinoid system that functions much in the same way as the human ECS.

    Plus, many of the conditions we'll list below (like anxiety, arthritis, pain, and convulsions) manifest much in the same way in pets as they do in humans.

    The 7 Most Common CBD Benefits for Dogs 1. Powerful Painkiller 2. Anticonvulsant 3. Anti-Inflammatory 4. Stress Reliever 5. Antiemetic 6. Anticancer Effects 7. Promotes Homeostasis

    Chuck the Pug, Bark & Wag model, was diagnosed with kidney failure. Dr. Millie Armstrong explains the diagnosis. Feb 04, 2019
    Show notes

    Kidney disease is more common as dogs age. It is estimated that more than 1 in 10 dogs will develop kidney disease over a lifetime1,3, so it's an important topic to understand. When healthy, the two kidneys efficiently:

    • Filter the blood
    • Process protein wastes and excrete them into the urine
    • Conserve and balance body water, salts and acids
    • Help to maintain normal red blood cells

    Kidney disease occurs when one or more of these functions are compromised or reduced. Unfortunately, it typically goes undetected until the organs are functioning at approximately 33% to 25% of their capacity. Dogs with moderate to severe chronic kidney disease (CKD) are prone to dehydration and you may notice that your dog is lethargic and has a poor appetite. Treatment options for advanced kidney disease are usually limited to treating the symptoms because dialysis and kidney transplants are not readily available for dogs. Protecting your pooch from kidney disease means you should be prepared to look for problems early.

    Causes of of chronic kidney disease in dogs The International Renal Interest Society or IRIS is a group of veterinary specialists studying kidney disease in dogs and cats. They list several risk factors that make pets more susceptible to kidney disease, such as age or breed, and investigate reversible factors that initiate or accelerate kidney damage. Such factors include:

    • Glomerulonephritis
    • Pyelonephritis (kidney infection)
    • Nephrolithiasis (kidney stones)
    • Ureteral obstruction & hydronephrosis (stones causing a blockage)
    • Tubulointerstitial disease (involving the kidney tubules)
    • Leptospirosis
    • Cancer
    • Amyloidosis (protein problem)
    • Hereditary nephropathies (genetic problem)

    Signs of chronic kidney disease in dogs One of the earliest signs of kidney disease in dogs is urinating and drinking more (polyuria/polydipsia or PU/PD). Often, dogs need to urinate at nighttime (nocturia) or have "accidents." There are many other causes of PU/PD, but kidney disease is one of the most serious concerns. Taking water away from your dog could make chronic kidney disease worse, so please don't try to do this without your veterinarian's direction. Having your dog examined promptly when you note a change in water intake and urine production is key! Dogs tend to be pretty sensitive to changes in their blood levels of waste so even mild to moderate changes may cause signs of illness.

    Other signs of chronic kidney disease include:

    • Urinary incontinence (urine leakage)
    • Dehydration
    • Lethargy
    • Reduced appetite
    • Vomiting
    • Weight loss
    • Bad breath with a chemical odor
    • Oral ulcers
    • Pale appearance

    Testing your dog for chronic kidney disease Your veterinarian will often suggest these basic tests:

    Physical Examination— The first test your veterinarian is likely to perform will be a physical examination, and remember that taking your dog in for routine physical examinations is an excellent way to help protect him. Even normal physical exams may be useful later as a baseline of comparison. During the exam, your veterinarian might detect:

    • Enlarged, painful kidneys
    • Back or flank pain
    • Changes in the prostate or urinary bladder

    A rectal examination can give more detail about the possibility of urethral, bladder or prostatic disease that might relate to kidney disease. Finding a large bladder in a dehydrated pet, or other, less specific, findings may also warn your veterinarian about a kidney problem, for example:

    • Low body temperature
    • Excessive skin tenting
    • Dry gums (showing dehydration)
    • Unkempt hair coat

    Other testing may include:

    • Complete blood count (CBC)—The CBC may reveal anemia (too few red blood cells) or an elevation in white blood cells consistent with infection, stress or inflammation. Less commonly, blood parasites or circulating cancer cells are found.
    • Chemistry profile with electrolytes
    • Urinalysis with sediment exam—Examining a urine specimen, especially prior to any treatment, is a simple and economical way to gauge urine quality.
    • Urine culture with susceptibility
    • Urine protein to creatinine ratio
    • Infectious disease testing—Regular testing for heartworm infection and for vector borne diseases such as Ehrlichiosis andLyme can identify risk factors for kidney disease.
    • Diagnostic imaging—Using radiography (X-rays) and diagnostic ultrasound to identify changes in the size, shape and architecture of the kidneys may suggest a specific blockage that needs emergency treatment.
    • Blood pressure measurement—High blood pressure is common in dogs with chronic kidney disease.
    • Kidney Sampling

    Management and monitoring of chronic kidney disease Sick pets with signs of kidney disease that include dehydration will likely require more intensive care in a hospital setting, while those that are happy tail waggers and are completely self-supporting will often be treated at home. Your veterinarian will work diligently to find a treatable cause of kidney disease and make individual recommendations for your dog. General treatment goals for dogs with kidney disease include:

    • Providing adequate and appropriate nutrition with a kidney friendly diet (always check with your veterinarian before making any diet changes).
    • Ensuring excellent hydration.
    • Balancing salts and acid-base levels.
    • Aggressively treating any protein problems or high blood pressure, since these conditions tend to worsen kidney damage2.
    • Keeping plenty of fresh water available—this is essential!

    Keep in mind that dogs with kidney disease are usually going to need more trips outside for bathroom breaks, so building this into the household schedule will be important. A friendly neighbor can help out, or a professional dog walker can come to give your pooch a midday break and help you avoid coming home to a puddle or two on the floor. He really can't help it! Your pet's condition, any other illnesses found and your personal goals for treatment will help determine the course of treatment and dictate how often you visit the veterinarian. Chronic kidney disease prognosis/advances Some dogs with chronic kidney disease will live years after diagnosis and have a good quality of life. Others will not be so lucky. Your veterinarian will evaluate after testing is finished. As a motivated pet guardian you can take an active role in your pet's preventive care by planning for wellness exams and routine lab testing. Team up with your veterinarian to address any problems before they get worse. The discovery of new biomarkers for kidney function, such as SDMA, provides for early recognition of kidney disease before other blood values change and offers the prospect of earlier intervention and kidney care3.

    If you have any questions or concerns, you should always visit or call your veterinarian -- they are your best resource to ensure the health and well-being of your pets.

    Resources:

    1. Brown SA. Renal dysfunction in small animals. The Merck Veterinary Manual website. Updated October 2013. Accessed January 14, 2015.
    2. Polzin DJ et al. Evidence-based management of chronic kidney disease. In Bonagura J, Twedt D (eds), Kirk's Current Veterinary Therapy XIV, Elsevier Saunders, St Louis 2009: 872-879.
    3. https://www.idexx.com/small-animal-health/solutions/articles/sdma-diagnose-kidney-disease.html

    What is leadership dog training? Jan 27, 2019
    Show notes

    Dogs operate on a social structure of rank – a hierarchy. If he leads you then you follow. When it comes time to command him he won't take you seriously if he believes he is #1. However, if you put in some clear leadership roles and become the "alpha"; then your dog will respond and present more positive behaviors more often that you can now reinforce. In this case you have a fulfilling relationship without all of the frustration. Being the pack leader does not mean being a bully. Leadership is most often carried out in silent dominance, resource control, being confident and having the ability to give direction and follow through. Also, being a good leader without teaching your dog what is expected and using a properly conditioned language won't work. It is the combined effort of learned behaviors and sound leadership that will create lasting results and a great relationship of love and mutual respect.

    Your dog should earn everything – work for a living just like we do. If he learns to earn his "Paychecks" then he won't expect everything for free. (If you give him everything he wants when he wants it, then he will become "bossy"). This means no petting, feeding, talking to or even eye contact if he is demanding attention. He has to complete an obedience command before he gets anything. *This rule will differ slight for working service dogs.

    Control all aspects of his feeding arrangements – we must eat first, even if it is a bite of a something. He is not allowed to begin eating until you release him to eat; he must "out" while eating and not begin again until invited. Don't feed him in the same place everyday, control the environment and feed him in different areas. Teach him to work for his food – CleverPet, Kong Stuffing, Busy Buddy, Canine Genius, Atomic Treat Ball, Buster Cube and scatter feeding.

    Control all "entertainment" resources – he should have about 3 toys out per day. He has to work to get each one of them released and the toys must be rotated daily. When you pick them up in the evening, be sure he is watching you control these items. Put them away and bring out 2-3 different toys the next morning. If at any time he protects a toy or tries to control the situation, remove the toy and put it away for the day.

    Have him move out of your way a few times a day. If he is lying down in a hallway, walk through him by gently shuffling your feet until he gets up and moves. The alpha never walks around his littermates. Don't let your dog treat you like a sibling, be the parent. In control, but calm and silent dominance works best. Save the verbal corrections for when you really need them.

    Do not let him pull on leash. If he leads you on a walk he will want to take lead in all other aspects of life. Be the leader; teach him to walk beside or behind you. Also, frequently stop him on walks and give him obedience commands. Make him stop at all the street corners, have him sit and then down. Don't allow him to get up until you release him to "heel" again. If he advances forward or gets up, use the verbal correction "no" and command him again. Be calm and confident. Getting flustered makes him feel like he is winning. Use precise commands and only reward him if he completes them the first time he is asked. Teaching formal leash walking and a "heel" command typically needs to be done with the help of a professional dog trainer like Specialty Dog Training™, but applying the above advice will give you a great start. *Avoid giving specific obedience cues that have not been properly taught or conditioned.

    Control access to all doorways and narrow openings. This forces him to look up at you for guidance, checking in to see what is next.

    Always make him complete a few commands before letting him off leash and call him back intermittently while he is playing off leash. Have him come, sit and then release him to play again. Reward him if he responds right away.

    Do not let him jump on you or others, ever. It is a very rude way of greeting and is also associated with dominance. What if you went to a friend's house and the first thing he did was start body checking you and scraping his fingernails down your arms and legs. Not so polite when you think about it that way now is it?

    Do not let him take positions above you. Dogs have a literal sense of hierarchy; if he is up on the couch looking down at you he will feel more dominant. In a social pack, the alpha dog would never let that happen unless it was during invited play.

    Play – Control games; whether it is fetch, tug, keep a way etc. You must always initiate play and make the rules. Start and stop when you feel like it, not when he tells you so. If he isn't listening, immediately stop paying any attention and walk away.

    Never let him bite you. If you are playing, training or even just petting him and he puts his teeth on you give him a sharp verbal correction (eh-eh or no) and then disengage for a few hours. No petting, no talking to him, no eye contact etc. It is tough love but if he learns now it will create more freedoms for him later. Would you rather lay down some ground rules now and teach him right from wrong or wait until he uses his teeth and hurts someone?

    Continue obedience training throughout his life. It should be a part of a daily routine: he waits at doorways, gets in the car when invited, comes when called etc. As he masters the basics, teach him new advanced commands to stimulate his mind. Our children attend school for 18 years and then many continue their education for another 4 plus years in college or trade school. One 6-week-obedience course or a few private lessons isn't going to fix everything; although, it will most likely lay down a great foundation. You must continue using what you have learned and strive to learn more. Give your dog the opportunity to succeed and teach him right from wrong.

    Groom and handle your dog often. Clean out his ears, touch and hold his paws, give him gentle hugs to help him adjust to restraint.

    Dogs want us to step up as the pack leader. Animals select pack leaders because they instinctually know who is strong and who can best lead them. A pack leader is concerned for the pack, not for himself. The pack leaders natural instincts are protection and direction for the entire pack. It's an unselfish role and an instinctual role, just like human parenting. In return, the pack completely trusts the pack leader, the parent. You need to earn your dogs' trust, loyalty, love, and respect before they will look to you as their leader and you do this by giving them clear boundaries, rules, limitations and conditioning good behavior.

    Graham Bloem: ©Copyright 2014


    How to keep your dog out of the garbage with Kersti Nieto, professional dog trainer from North Carolina Jan 14, 2019
    Show notes

    To keep your kitchen clean and your dog healthy, follow these tips for how to prevent your dog from eating trash when you are away.

    1. Keep your dog fed. ...
    2. Keep your dog engaged. ...
    3. Be strategic with your trash can. ...
    4. Introduce baby gates and crates. ...
    5. Training. ...
    6. Catch your dog in the act.

    What your dogs should not eat over the holidays with Dr. Laura Brown Dec 24, 2018
    Show notes

    Holiday Foods That Are Bad For Dogs

    Contributed by Dr. Alison Birken, owner and DVM of Victoria Park Animal Hospital.

    Daily pet emergencies at the hospital nearly double during the holidays, with the consumption of toxic foods for dogs being one of the leading causes. While there are potentially harmful holiday decorations, hazardous holiday plants and Christmas trees, there is also a hefty list of what not to feed dogs. So to ensure more time celebrating, and less time at the veterinary hospital, check out these toxic foods for dogs.

    What Not to Feed Dogs Over the Holidays
    • Rich and Fatty Foods. Rich and fatty foods can cause problems ranging from stomach upset to more serious illnesses such as pancreatitis, which causes pain, vomiting and dehydration.
    • Alcohol. Alcohol can cause intoxication in our pets, and many dogs are attracted to the sweet taste and smell.
    • Candy Canes, Gingerbread Cookies, Popcorn, Raisins and Cranberry Garlands. Candy canes, gingerbread cookies, popcorn, raisins and cranberry garlands can also be enticing to your pet, but when ingested, can cause upset stomach or a more serious intestinal obstruction.
    • Chocolate, Coffee and Tea. Chocolate, coffee and tea all contain dangerous components called xanthines, which cause nervous system or urinary system damage and heart muscle stimulation. Problems from ingestion range from diarrhea to seizures and death. Unsweetened baking chocolate and dark chocolate are the most toxic to our pets.
    • Uncooked Meat, Fish and Poultry. Uncooked meat, fish and poultry can contain disease-causing bacteria, such as E. coli, and parasites like Toxoplasma Gondii.
    • Bones From Fish, Meat or Poultry. Bones from fish, meat or poultry—even small bones—can splinter and cause tearing throughout the intestinal tract, requiring surgery.
    • Tobacco. Tobacco products can be fatal to pets if ingested. Signs of poisoning develop within 15-45 minutes and include over-excitement, salivation, vomiting and diarrhea. Pets may develop seizures, collapse and even die from cardiac arrest. Keep all tobacco products out of reach and make sure to empty all ashtrays regularly.
    • Uncooked Yeast Dough. Uncooked yeast dough can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.
    • Grapes, Raisins, Macadamia Nuts and Xylitol. Grapes, raisins, macadamia nuts and xylitol (an artificial sweetener) are toxic for pets.

    By being aware of dangerous foods for dogs, you can better avoid potential pet emergencies. And with all the festivities, do not forget to relax and spend some quality time with your pet. Your dog will truly think that is the best gift of all!


    Thinking of rescuing a dog over the holidays? Here are tips on how to acclimate your new pup to your house. Dec 16, 2018
    Show notes

    Tips from the Humane Society on bringing home a new dog. Bringing home a new dog can be one of the most joyous experiences of your life, but you have to make sure you have a solid plan to avoid some of the pitfalls that can lead to problems down the road. You also need to be patient.

    Acclimating a new dog to your home can take as long as two months, so be sure you're in it for the long haul. And remember, your new family member doesn't understand what you're saying. He learns what is and isn't allowed from how you behave, your tone of voice, what rules you set, and all of the nonverbal cues you give him.

    Here are 7 tips the Humane Society recommend to acclimate your new dog to your home:

    1. Have all needed supplies ready before Fido walks through the door

    These include a food and water bowl, a leash, age-appropriate food (don't give a puppy adult dog food) and treats, a collar and ID tag, and a crate if you plan on crate training. It's also a good idea to have a few toys ready for him.

    2. Set the rules of the house in advance

    You have to decide who will take care of feedings and who will take him for daily walks. Decide ahead of time what your dog is allowed to do, and what's not permitted, and be consistent. For example, are you going to let him up on furniture, and if so, in what rooms? Where will he sleep?

    3. Do some research on housebreaking

    Housebreaking your new dog is actually easier than you might think—all it takes is patience and consistency. Be prepared for accidents—again, remember that your dog doesn't understand the rules until you teach them to him. Establish a consistent schedule for feeding your dog and taking him outside to go.

    "Patience and consistency are the keys to #housebreaking your #dog" TWEET THIS

    If you bring home a puppy, he'll have to go more often; plan on taking him out every two hours. Always take him to the same place in the yard (he'll know from scent what you want him to do).

    When he has an accident, interrupt him if you catch him in the act. Make a startling noise, or simply say "outside," but be sure not to frighten him. Immediately take him to his outside "go location." Above all, don't ever punish your dog for having an accident, and always reward him for getting it right.

    4. Take him to a vet within the first week

    Even dogs adopted from reputable breeders and shelters are prone to diseases, so he has to have his shots as soon as possible if he doesn't already have them. Take him to a vet to receive all his vaccinations. It's also important to spay or neuter your dog. The best age to spay or neuter is from 6 to 9 months.

    5. Crate your dog for several hours a day

    Many new owners don't want to crate their dogs because they think it's cruel. Actually, dogs in the wild live in dens, so to your dog the crate represents safety and helps him relax. Be sure the crate is the right size (check with your vet) and doesn't have dangerous wires where he could catch his claws or hurt himself. Generally, you don't want to crate your dog for more than a few hours each day, and always at the same time (remember—consistency!).

    6. Let your dog know who the pack leader is

    It's important for dogs to be submissive to their owners. Dogs are pack animals and will be calmer and less anxious if they know from the outset that you set the rules. It's important to be assertive, letting him know clearly and consistently what the rules and boundaries are, but equally important to always remain calm. When he makes a mistake, convey your disapproval in a firm but calm tone. When he behaves properly, give him positive reinforcement in the form of praise and a treat.

    7. Give him plenty of exercise

    Dogs have a lot of pent up energy, especially when they're young. A regular schedule of exercise is critical to his physical and emotional health. Take him for walks, give him a place where he can run free, and play active games with him.

    Remember...

    If this is your first dog, you might be a little anxious and concerned that you'll make mistakes. The truth is, you probably will, but if you follow the steps outlined here, stay calm and provide your dog with love, structure and discipline, he'll be happy, and so will you.

    If you have questions, you can always check with your vet who will be happy to listen and give you good advice. Here at South Boston Animal Hospital, we're always willing to help you forge a great relationship with your dog and keep him as healthy as possible. If you have questions or need helpful advice, contact us today.


    Learn about Freedom Service Dogs in Denver helping individuals in need and attend their Winter Graduation on December 6th Dec 05, 2018
    Show notes

    At Freedom Service Dogs, we unleash the potential of dogs by transforming them into custom-trained, life-changing assistance dogs for people in need. Our clients include children, veterans and active duty military, and other adults. Their disabilities include autism, traumatic brain injury, cerebral palsy, spinal cord injuries, muscular dystrophy, multiple sclerosis, and post-traumatic stress disorder.

    Freedom Service Dogs has received numerous commendations, national press features, and government resolutions in support of our innovative work.

    https://freedomservicedogs.org/about-us/

    Event

    Winter Graduation 2018 December 6 @ 6:00 pm - 8:00 pm

    Join us at Parker Arts, Culture & Events Center on Thursday December 6 from 6 p.m. – 8 p.m. Celebrate the incredible client-dog teams that have worked so hard to graduate from Freedom Service Dogs, as well as the talented trainers and dedicated volunteers who help transform shelter dogs into service dogs and professional therapy dogs. This uplifting graduation ceremony is free and open to the public.


    Can you hug your pug so hard their eyes pop out? Dec 01, 2018
    Show notes

    Dogs can experience a detached eye from trauma, fighting, head injury or pulling the skin too far back from the face or by the scruff of the neck. Skin stretching or trauma can cause eye detachment in any breed of dog, but dogs with very shallow eye sockets can be more affected but if you hug your pug their eyes are not going to pop out.


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