Women Designers You Should Know

Latest Episodes:

Extra Sketches: The Hidden Half Aug 22, 2024

Show notes

Host Amber Asay dives into the untold stories of design power couples where the husbands received most of the credit, exploring how history has often overlooked the equally brilliant contributions of their wives.

(This new bonus series, called "Extra Sketches" will be where we explore common themes and trends within women designer stories.)
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015. Betty Cooke and Ellen Lupton: From Jewelry to Typography Aug 20, 2024

Show notes

This dual feature episode spotlights Betty Cooke, the minimalist jewelry designer known for her sculptural creations, alongside Ellen Lupton, celebrated graphic designer and author, who reflects on Cooke’s influence and shares insights from her own legendary career in design and education.
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Links:

Thinking with Type, book by Ellen Lupton
Extra Bold, book co-authored by Ellen Lupton
Betty Cooke's Store

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About Betty Cooke:

We recently lost another design legend, Betty Cooke, whose passing marks the end of an era in modernist jewelry design. Born in 1924 in Baltimore, Maryland, Betty Cooke was a trailblazing designer celebrated for her minimalist and sculptural jewelry. Her work is defined by clean lines, geometric forms, and a timeless elegance that resonated across generations. After studying at the Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA), where she later became a beloved faculty member, Betty opened her own studio and eventually co-founded The Store Ltd., a Baltimore institution that showcased her work for over five decades. Her jewelry, often handcrafted in silver and gold with touches of wood or acrylic, is iconic for its simplicity and boldness—pieces that remain instantly recognizable as “Betty Cooke.” Cooke’s influence is immortalized in museums, galleries, and in the collections of those fortunate enough to own her designs. Her legacy is one of innovation, elegance, and unwavering dedication to her craft.

About Ellen Lupton:

Ellen Lupton is one of the most influential voices in contemporary graphic design. Born in 1963, she is a celebrated designer, writer, curator, and educator whose work has profoundly shaped design education and practice. After graduating from Cooper Union in 1985, she became a curator at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, where she curated groundbreaking exhibitions that connected design to culture and society. Ellen is perhaps best known for her book Thinking with Type, first published in 2004, which has become an essential guide for designers and is used in classrooms worldwide. Beyond her writing, she has played a pivotal role in shaping the Graphic Design MFA program at MICA, inspiring generations of designers with her innovative teaching methods. Her body of work extends to over 20 books, exploring topics from typography to storytelling in design. Ellen’s contributions continue to influence how designers think, create, and communicate in today’s visual world.
Keep up with what Ellen Lupton's up to:
Instagram | Website

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014. Louise Fili and Kevin Cantrell: Masters of Lettering & Typography Aug 13, 2024

Show notes

This dual feature episode highlights Louise Fili, the iconic designer celebrated for her exquisite typography and branding, alongside Kevin Cantrell, a master of lettering and typography, who shares how her work has shaped his own career and creative philosophy.

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Sources:

About Louise Fili:

Louise Fili is a true titan of the design world, known for her impeccable taste, unrivaled craftsmanship, and deep-rooted passion for typography. She has revolutionized the landscape of graphic design with her elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic. Her career spans decades of groundbreaking work, from her iconic book covers at Pantheon Books to the founding of her own studio, Louise Fili Ltd., where she has created stunning branding for top-tier clients like Sarabeth's and Bella Cucina.

Fili's work is a symphony of intricate lettering and timeless design, influenced by her love for Italian art and architecture. Her contributions to design have earned her the prestigious AIGA Medal and a place in the Art Directors Club Hall of Fame. Beyond her professional achievements, Fili is a dedicated educator at the School of Visual Arts, nurturing the next generation of designers.

Louise Fili continues to inspire and captivate with every project, embodying the perfect blend of historical reverence and modern sophistication. Her legacy is one of beauty, precision, and enduring impact on the world of design.

About Kevin Cantrell:

Adam Vicarel is a brand designer, lettering artist and mural painter who is obsessed with merging the worlds of fine art and strategic design. In his personal work Adaminfuses his love for travel and the outdoors into his typography, illustration and storytelling to create visceral experiences for his audience. That’s visceral, not Vicarel.

His graph design studio, Vicarel Studios works on visual identity systems, packaging art installations, and more, and they’ve created for brands like NBC, Twitter, Lululemon, United Airlines and Sharpie. Their unique process of combining fine art with design allows them to craft provocative brands and artful experiences unbound by industry or medium.

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013. Iris Apfel and Adam Vicarel: Creativity Fueled by Travel Aug 06, 2024

Show notes

This dual feature episode explores the life of Iris Apfel, a globe-trotting icon whose design career spans interiors, textiles, and fashion, alongside Adam Vicarel, a designer and lettering artist whose work is deeply inspired by his love of travel and storytelling. Together, they demonstrate how the experiences of the world can shape bold, creative visions.

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Sources:

The CEO Magazine “How Iris Apfel, 100, defies her age in the business world”
South China Morning Post “Meet Iris Apfel”
2014 Documentary “IRIS” by Albert Maysles

About Iris Apfel:

Iris Apfel, born on August 29, 1921, in Queens, New York, is a renowned American businesswoman, interior designer, and fashion icon. Alongside her husband Carl, she founded Old World Weavers in 1950, a textile firm celebrated for its reproduction of antique fabrics. Their work included notable projects like the restoration of the White House under nine presidents, enhancing its historical elegance.

Iris's distinctive personal style, characterized by bold accessories and eclectic fashion choices, made her a fashion muse and a beloved figure in the industry. Her influence was further cemented by the 2005 Costume Institute exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art titled "Rara Avis: The Irreverent Iris Apfel."

In addition to her work in design, Iris has collaborated with brands like MAC Cosmetics and H&M, bringing her unique aesthetic to a broader audience. She continues to inspire with her memoir "Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon" and a modeling contract with IMG signed at age 97, showcasing her enduring appeal and influence.

For more information, explore her memoir or the New York Times article.

About Adam Vicarel:

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012. Ann Lowe: A Trailblazing Black Couturier (w/ Elizabeth Way) Jul 30, 2024

Show notes

Discover the captivating and untold story of Ann Lowe, the brilliant designer behind Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress, as we delve into her legacy with fashion historian and author, Elizabeth Way, who has researched and written about Ann Lowe's life.

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Check out the original reel / video this podcast was based on: https://www.instagram.com/p/C6EDEMrLDsn/

Sources:

Ann Lowe: American Couturier by Elizabeth Way
Margaret Powell's master's thesis, The Life and Work of Ann Lowe, published in 2012 by the Corcoran School of the Arts & Design (Included in the book above)
By Her Own Design by Piper Huguley (Fictional Novel based on her life)
The Mike Douglas Show Interview

About Ann Lowe:

Ann Lowe (1898-1981) was an influential African American fashion designer whose exquisite gowns were sought after by America's social elite. Born in Clayton, Alabama, she learned the art of dressmaking from her mother and grandmother, both skilled seamstresses. Despite facing significant racial barriers, Lowe's talent led her to design dresses for prominent families, including the Rockefellers, the du Ponts, and the Kennedys.

Her most famous creation was Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress in 1953, a masterpiece completed under extraordinary circumstances. Lowe’s work was known for its meticulous craftsmanship, hand-sewn details, and elegant designs, yet she received little recognition during her lifetime. Financial struggles and the racial discrimination she faced often overshadowed her achievements. Today, Ann Lowe is celebrated as a trailblazer in the fashion industry, whose contributions continue to inspire and influence designers around the world.

About Elizabeth Way:

Elizabeth Way is a curator who specializes in fashion history, particularly focusing on the intersection of fashion and African American culture. Elizabeth has curated several exhibitions, including "Black Fashion Designers" and "Fabric In Fashion," which highlight the contributions of Black designers and the significance of textiles in fashion. She also co-edited the book "Black Designers in American Fashion," contributing to scholarship and public understanding of the impact of Black designers in the fashion industry. AND authored a book that just came out in 2023 about Ann Lowe

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Karmele Leizaola with Faride Mereb and Oriana Nuzzi: Pioneering Venezuelan Design Jul 23, 2024

Show notes

This TRIPLE feature episode explores the groundbreaking career of Venezuelan graphic designer Karmele Leizaola, whose pioneering work shaped the nation’s design identity. Guests Faride Mereb and Oriana Nuzzi, Venezuelan designers now based in Brooklyn, share their research on Leizaola’s legacy and reflect on how her vision continues to influence contemporary design and their own creative journeys.

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About Karmele Leizaola:

First documented woman to work as a graphic designer in Venezuela. She is considered a pioneer of editorial design in Venezuela, working at several independent and her work has been influential for many generations of editorial designers.

Karmele was born in 1929 in Basque Country in Spain and starting at the age of 7, she was uprooted twice, first fleeing from the Spanish Civil War, and settling in France, and then fleeing France because of WWII, finally landing in Venezuela.

Her father was a printer and photojournalist which led to her connections and interest to becoming a publication graphic designer for various magazines and newspapers.

Her 55+ year career spanned from early layout design to hiring and consulting for countless publications.

Learn More at karmeleleizaola.com

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About Faride Mereb & Oriana Nuzzi

Faride and Oriana, both talented designers from Venezuela are now based in Brooklyn, where they co-direct Letra Muerta, a studio that specializes in art books.

Their dedication to preserving and celebrating Karmele's contributions to graphic design is nothing short of remarkable. In this interview they explain how they first came across her work, and how they’ve pushed through hours of research in Venezuela’s National Library. They took this research and created newspapers and zines of her work, and even Karmele’s wikipedia page is thanks to them.

Faride is an award-winning book designer, researcher, editor, and art director. Her love of books has deeply influenced her work. She’s worked for Penguin Random House, Kenning Editions, and is a member of the American Printing History Association.

Her friend and colleague Oriana, is an editorial designer and book designer. She has an artistic approach to her work, after first studying to be an artist. Along with Faride, she works on preserving and showcasing archival materials, while also exhibiting the work of Venezuelan artists and writers, and their cultural contributions.
Learn more about Faride and Oriana's studio Letra Muerta: https://letramuerta.nyc/
Follow their studio on IG: @letramuertainc
Follow Faride Mereb: @fmereb
Follow Oriana Nuzzi: @orianamrgarita

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010. Pum Lefebure: On Process, Philosophy, and Parenthood Jul 16, 2024

Show notes

Renowned designer Pum Lefebure shares her journey from her artistic roots in Bangkok to co-founding Design Army in Washington, D.C. She discusses her experiences leading high-profile campaigns for clients like the Washington Ballet, her philosophy on creativity and design, and the challenges of balancing her roles as a business owner, creative visionary, and mother. Listen in as Pum reflects on the impact of her cultural heritage, the importance of taking risks in design, and her advice for aspiring designers.
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About Pum Lefebure:
Pum Lefebure is the co-founder and Chief Creative Officer of Design Army, a renowned creative agency based in Washington, D.C. Originally from Bangkok, Thailand, Pum has brought a unique global perspective to American design, blending artistic vision with strategic business acumen.
Over the years, she has spearheaded high-profile campaigns for clients such as Adobe, GE, Disney, the Ritz Carlton, and the Washington Ballet.
Her work has not only garnered countless awards but also set new standards in the industry.
Pum has served as a jury president and judge for some of the world's most prestigious design competitions and she has been recognized by Graphic Design USA as one of the top 50 People to Watch and has been featured in esteemed publications like Communication Arts and HOW magazine.

In addition to her professional achievements, Pum is a dedicated mother and a passionate advocate for creativity. She seamlessly balances her roles as a business owner, creative visionary, and family woman, making her a true icon in the design world.

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009. Norma Merrick Sklarek and Tobi Ashiru: Celebrating Black Women in Architecture Jul 09, 2024

Show notes

This dual feature episode celebrates the trailblazing career of Norma Merrick Sklarek, the first Black woman licensed in architecture in New York and California, whose work broke barriers and paved the way for future generations. Guest Tobi Ashiru, a Black architectural designer and educator, shares how Norma’s legacy has inspired her own journey and shaped her perspective on diversity in design.

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About Norma Merrick Sklarek

Norma Merrick Sklarek (1926-2012) was a pioneering architect who shattered racial and gender barriers in the profession. As the first Black woman licensed as an architect in New York and California, Norma made significant contributions to iconic projects such as the Fox Plaza in San Francisco, the Pacific Design Center in Los Angeles, the US Embassy in Tokyo, and Terminal One at LAX. But as a black woman, she faced a lot of discrimination throughout her career. In fact, after graduation, she was rejected by 19 firms purely because of her race and gender. But she made an impact at 5 notable firms, including Victor Gruen Associates where she worked with Frank Gehry and Cesar Pelli. She also co-founding a firm with 2 other women, named Siegel-Sklarek-Diamond, which was the first architectural practice led by women in the US. She was also the first Black woman to be part of the AIA in 1959 AND became an AIA fellow later in 1980. Sklarek's legacy extends beyond her architectural achievements; she was a passionate advocate for diversity in the field, mentoring countless young architects and leaving an indelible mark on the architecture community.

About Tobi Ashiru

Tobi is a passionate designer and alumna of the USC School of Architecture. With a mission to change the world through design, she strives to push the boundaries of creativity. Born in Nigeria and raised in South Africa, Tobi seeks to create contextually relevant work that celebrates blackness. She's a interdisciplinary designer with diverse experiences as an architectural designer, installation artist, forever student, educator, and business owner.

She stays committed to the advancement of underrepresented voices in many ways and through Poché Design Studio, a black woman owned design agency she co-founded, where the mission is to occupy and amplify the black space in design. Tobi is currently an adjunct professor at USC School of Architecture where she is the lead instructor for the A-Lab program.

Instagram: @bypoche
Website: tobiashiru.com, bypoche.com

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Design Dialogues: Submit Your Story Jun 25, 2024

Show notes

New Bonus Episode series! The topic for the first one is all about Persistence, submit your story and listen to host, Amber Asay's own story of Persistence on this episode.

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Submit Your Story of Persistence: (Submissions Now Closed)

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008. Muriel Cooper and Kelli Anderson: From Print to Pixels Jun 13, 2024

Show notes

This dual feature episode explores Muriel Cooper’s groundbreaking innovations in user interface and information design at MIT, alongside Kelli Anderson’s boundary-pushing work in paper art and design, inspired by Cooper’s merging of technology and creativity.

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About Muriel Cooper

Muriel Cooper (1925-1994) was a pioneering graphic designer known for her groundbreaking work in digital design and visual communication. As the first art director of MIT Press, she revolutionized academic publishing with her innovative book designs, including "Learning from Las Vegas." She co-founded the Visible Language Workshop at MIT, which evolved into the MIT Media Lab, where she spearheaded research in computer graphics and user interface design. Cooper's legacy endures through her contributions to integrating design with technology and her advocacy for women in the field.

About Kelli Anderson

Kelli Anderson is an innovative artist, designer, and educator known for her inventive paper engineering and interactive books. With a background in both design and art, she creates works that explore the intersection of art, technology, and everyday objects, often transforming the mundane into the extraordinary. Kelli’s notable projects include a functioning paper record player and a pop-up planetarium book, showcasing her ability to merge creativity with technical skill. Her work has been widely recognized and celebrated for its ingenuity and playful approach to design.

Instagram: @kellianderson
Website: kellianderson.com

Sources:

Book: Muriel Cooper (Mit Press) by Reinfurt and Wiesenberger
Eye on Design “Muriel Coopers Visions of a Future”
Designer Observer’s Podcast episode w/ Michael Beirut & Jessica Helfand"Learning from Muriel Cooper"
YouTube, Talks at Google — “Muriel Cooper” by David Reinfurt

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