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    Nature

    Where Two Deserts Meet

    Meet our narrators, Donovan Smith and Ian Chadwick, as they explore some of the park’s unique and special resources through interviews with experts in the field. The episodes cover various topics, from night skies to wildlife and so much more. The podcast’s title, “Where Two Deserts Meet,” refers to the transition zone between the Colorado and the Mojave Deserts within Joshua Tree National Park. Listen in and explore the wonders of the deserts and ways we can help preserve them for future generations.

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    Monsoons Aug 21, 2023
    Show notes

    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet, we meet up with National Weather Service Meteorologist, Jessica Leffel, and explore the complexities of the monsoon season and what visitors should expect during this time of year when visiting Joshua Tree National Park. We also catch up with Alex Snay, Joshua Tree National Park’s Facility Manager to learn about the importance of safety during flash floods and why we say, “Turn Around, Don’t Drown.” ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Donovan: Where two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Chauilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land in which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place, and we pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in Memorial. Ian: Hi, I'm Ian. Donovan: And I'm Donovan. Ian: And we are both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park, Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park, where we explore topics that often require a bit more detail and the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Donovan: Hey, Ian, did I ever tell you about that one time I almost got caught in a flash flood? Ian: Uh, no. What happened? Donovan: During the summer of 2022, I was stationed down at Cottonwood Visitor Center for the day, and the drive down was pretty peaceful and covered with blue skies. As the day went on, I remember often looking outside the west facing window and I started to see denser and denser clouds form. I remember actually being pretty excited by this image because usually that means that the sun will be blocked by them. Providing a brief moment of shade, which can feel amazing, especially when it's usually over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit outside. That feeling of relief was short-lived. However, as those white fluffy clouds soon turned to a dark gray cover, blocking all sunlight completely, what once was a pleasant Sunday afternoon? Looked as though it was now. 8:00 PM at night. It was clear to me that the rain was coming and I needed to get back as soon as possible. Luckily, we had just closed up the visitor center and we were getting ready to drive back up to headquarters. As we started to drive, we heard sounds of thunder in the distance. We could see some signs of rain about five to six miles east of smoke tree wash just off of Pinto Basin Road there. But luckily, no signs on the road. We were actively driving as we turned the corner. Suddenly we started to see a small stream form across the porcupine wash area. The water was only about one to two inches deep, so I decided to push forward. I then pulled over and waited just to keep an eye on the situation, but not even after one minute of driving through what was a small creek, it had now become a river at least. Four to five inches deep. I got out of the car and put on a safety vest to stop incoming cars from passing through the flood. After about five minutes, the water was almost a foot deep and I could see large rocks in boulders being pushed onto the road by the force of the water. I radioed the rest of the park to let them know that there was a flash flood occurring. The amazing part about all of this that I'm still surprised today about flash flooding is for myself and those cars that had to wait that day, we only waited about 20 minutes for that water to come and go. As fast as it came, it went and everybody was able to proceed on with a regular day, you know? Ian: I feel like that's actually sort of a common story. Most rangers at Joshua Tree National Park have had their own flash flood story after living here for a while. Your story reminds me of how hard it is sometimes as a ranger giving informed advice to visitors, considering sometimes we get those visitors who really want a definitive answer on if rain will impact their trip or not. Sometimes the only thing we can advise them is to be prepared for anything, especially during the monsoon season when it's hot and summery and rain is the last thing most visitors expect. But the monsoon season here has played a significant role in shaping the desert. Donovan: I feel like the weather here in the desert often confuses a lot of people. The extremes of day and night temperatures elevated precipitation in the summer. I think it's about time we consult a meteorologist on this one. Ian: Wait. What do meteors have to do with weather? Dononvan: Oh, okay. Ian, you know what meteorology is. Ian: I know. I just couldn't let us get away with doing a meteorology episode without making the joke once. But really though meteorology is no joke despite its misleading name. Meteorology goes beyond just the study of weather. The atmosphere and its phenomena. Donovan: And of course when talking about meteorology and Joshua Tree National Park, it would be impossible to do so without mentioning our friends at the National Weather Service in Phoenix, Arizona, who we rely on daily to have the most up-to-date weather inside the park. Luckily, a meteorologist at the National Weather Service agreed to talk with us on all things weather and especially the complexities of the monsoon season here in Joshua Tree National Park. Jessica: My name is Jessica Leffel and I'm a meteorologist at Nashville Weather Service Phoenix. Uh, we have over 120 different weather forecast offices across the country, and they stretch anywhere from Puerto Rico to Guam, but here in Phoenix, we actually cover South Central Arizona, stretching all the way into Southeast California. And we do a variety of different things here. So we'll do anything from forecasting to aviation weather to DSS, which is decision support services, helping our political partners out if they have events going on, as well as looking out and doing outreach events too, and doing the best that we can to get out into the public and educate people on weather preparedness. Donovan: On top of all that, Jessica is a part of the team that plays the important role of providing the weather forecast for Joshua Tree National Park. We utilize their weather resources in all our daily operations, visitor education and resource management. In the desert where weather conditions are often extreme, receiving alerts of potential hazardous conditions is often critical to visitor and park staff safety. But before we dive into that, we ask Jessica, what does an average workday look like for a meteorologist? Jessica: Depending on the day, you know, usually right now we're starting to get into the monsoon, so, our shifts will be a little bit more occupied. But outside of that, we do have routine shift duties that we have to get accomplished. So that's putting out our forecast. So that's something that anyone could go on our website to see what the high and low temperature's going to be, what the winds are going to be like, or all of those different. Variables that they're interested to know about the weather. We also put out a forecast discussion as well, and that kind of covers goes over our understanding of what's happening in the upper air and giving a better idea of synoptically what's happening so we can explain our reasoning and what different things we're seeing to cause the current weather that we're having. On top of that as well, we'll also put out an aviation forecast and that will include things called T A Fs. TAFs for short, and it's a terminal arid drum forecast. So this is something that we provide for the different airports within our region. So we have, currently about five airports that we create these forecasts for. And they'll go over any conditions or any changes so that the airports are ready to go and know if they need to change their runway configuration, if there's gonna be a wind shift, for example. Um, just to increase the safeness of the taking off and landing of airplanes. Beyond that as well, we do answer lots of public phone calls anytime anyone has any question about what's going on with the weather, as well as answering phone calls from our media partners to produce interviews to give, the public a better idea of what's happening and what different things that they can be prepared about for upcoming weather. And then beyond that, whenever we get into the actual activeness of the monsoon and the height of everything, we'll start putting out watches and warnings and advisories and doing the best that we can to warm the public before severe weather is approaching Ian: Meteorologist do a lot more work behind the scenes to keep us safe than we can even imagine. However, we often take weather forecasts for granted as they are often much more work to produce than it takes to access them. It's easy for us as the general public to open up an app on our phone and within seconds get an idea of what the next seven days of weather will look like almost anywhere in the world for a meteorologist. It's much more than that. So what exactly is happening behind the scenes of those forecasts? Jessica: With weather prediction, we do a lot to look at the current state of the atmosphere, and then we also look at a bunch of different models and different things to see how the atmosphere is going to evolve and then change our forecast. So we'll look at lots of current observations. So we'll check out what's happening with surface observations, what's happening with satellite imagery, what's happening with radar data radio, saw data, upper air data, and much more to get a big picture idea of what's currently happening. And then we use our pattern recognition and the skills that we learned in school from our foundation of understanding the upper air and the atmosphere and the different changes that it goes through, depending on the atmospheric pattern, we're able to see how this situation currently is going to evolve, and then that helps us predict whether and then make our forecast. Donovan: So there's surface observation, satellite observations, radar data, and more. There are so many complex resources and factors that go into the forecast that we receive. This reminds me of a common visitor question I get, which is, I'm camping in Joshua Tree National Park about two to three months from now, what will the weather be and what can I expect? And honestly, us rangers can give you an estimate based on past weather averages in the park, but to provide specific details that far in advance is quite complicated. Jessica: We produce a seven day forecast. Obviously, the closer it is in time, the more accurate that it will be. Just because we're able to get a better idea of what's happening currently and from day to day, we're able to see that variation in those small minute details and understand what's gonna happen a little bit better. However, as we get further on the forecast, things can definitely change. That isn't to say that long lead forecasts are not accurate. We do have, you know, a climate prediction center that will put out three month outlooks and things of that nature that can be fairly accurate. But as we get closer, we're able to see what those local influences will be a bit better. So for example, with this current monsoon and the climate prediction center was forecasting above normal temperatures and below normal precipitation for much of our region and our office. So with that, we were able to get a better idea of what we were going into, but as it's gotten closer, we were able to see how things have evolved, how it's changed, and create a more. Specific forecast that's more detailed with the current observations that we have now to better formulate our, our forecast. But closer it is the more accurate it is. But the reason that we do seven days out is because those are our, our highest confidence intervals. If we started doing eight days and beyond, then we would have more uncertainty in the forecast and there would be more changes. So we feel very confident with our seven day forecast. So that's why we release those to the public. Ian: Some confidence is very important when predicting precipitation in the desert, and we know precipitation isn't always the first thing that comes to mind in the desert, but why is that? What causes some landscapes to get large amounts and others to get maybe just a few inches a year? Jessica: A desert basically just lacks the available moisture to pull from in order to produce precipitation. So that could be due to a variety of different factors, whether that's the atmospheric circulation pattern, and you're over a high pressure system, which is usually in tuned with hot and dry conditions, or if it's the prevailing wind pattern that is. Producing an effect or topographic barriers and terrain influences or different temperature variations. So there's many different factors that can cause a desert to not receive as much rainfall as exterior regions that might receive more. So Joshua Tree National Park is under the influence of what's called the rain shadow effect, and this is essentially just the absence of rain on the leeward side of the mountain. So with that as air cools, as well as climbs over a mountain range, it begins to dry. So because we've got Mount San Jacinto as well as Mount San Gorgonio, just west of Joshua Tree National Park, as this air moves in, it is then pushed up by these mountains, and then it cools and dries as it rises over the mountains. So then, Only the mountains are really receiving that precipitation. And by the time that it reaches over the mountains and gets to the leeward side of the mountain, it doesn't have any moisture left to pull from. So the water vapor content is significantly decreased, and then we can't get as much rain in Joshua retrieve because of those mountains just west. Donovan: So when visiting Joshua Tree National Park and traveling from places like Coastal California, you may get a glimpse of two large and often snow capped mountains just west of the park. The leftover rain from those storms that hits those mountains often isn't much. For example, big Bear Lake located at the top of San Gregorio gets about 70 to 80 inches of combined snow and rain every year. Whereas Joshua Tree National Park only gets about four to seven combined inches annually. This is a huge difference when you consider that these landscapes are only a handful of miles apart. This doesn't mean that the rain can't catch people off guard here, though. Ian: Yeah. No matter how much precipitation a place gets annually, it's always important to plan ahead and check the weather. But interpreting the forecast is also important. Like the whole probability of precipitation can be a little confusing. Like what exactly does 20% chance of rain mean? Luckily we have Jessica. To clear things up. Jessica: Yeah. So whenever we're giving probabilities and different percentages of what's happening with rain coverage, um, just know that that is for aerial coverage. So if it says 20% chance for Joshua Tree National Park, it's for the region. It's not necessarily saying that there's only a 20% chance of rainfall in one specific location. So you have to kind of take it with a grain of salt and understand where that probability is coming from in order to better have a better idea if you're gonna need to bring an umbrella or not, for example. Donovan: Being prepared for a potential thunderstorm can make a huge difference in the success of your trip. Summer is the most common time of year. People don't expect rain in the park, but those who live locally often, once summer comes along, it's on everybo…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    Cultural Landscapes Mar 15, 2023
    Show notes

    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet we set out with Historical Landscape Architect Genna Mason-Bjornstad. With her guidance, we investigate how history can be traced across the landscape, the methods and efforts that go into protecting it, and how preserving these historic sites can help us learn from the past. ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Ian: Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Cahuilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land on which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place. We pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in. Ian: Hello, I'm Ian. Donovan: And I'm Donovan. Ian: And we're both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park. Where Two Deserts Meet is a podcast where we investigate topics that often require a bit more detail and sometimes the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Through interviews and investigation, we bring you the unique details, research, and stories that make Joshua Tree National Park remark. Speaking of, what is remarkable is the number of cultural landscapes that reside within Joshua Tree National Park that most visitors don't know about. Now, I know the idea of a cultural landscape probably sounds pretty unfamiliar to most people. Imagine if you were told that even just driving through the park for an hour, you likely passed multiple cultural landscapes. You'd probably wonder if you missed that part of the park map. Donovan: I mean, even just talking about it, I'm starting to think that I might have missed one or two here and there on the park map as well. Could I drop a finger randomly on the park map and it would be part of a cultural landscape? Is Hidden Valley a cultural landscape? Skull rock, even Oyster Bar. Okay. Well, sometimes it just feels like every time when I'm explained to what cultural landscapes are, there's always more to unpack. Ian: All right. Let's not get ahead of ourselves. I totally understand. Cultural landscapes may be confusing at first, but they are certainly important to the National Park Service, and that's because the spaces where the works of nature and humans combine provide a sense of place and identity. They map our relationship with the land, yet the subtle details are not as easy to find as one may think. An important sign of Joshua Tree National Park's history is the historical structures and artifacts found tucked within the rocks and the different areas of the park provide diverse resources, often causing human life to gather in areas that provide essential needs, leaving behind vast amounts of historical evidence. This evidence on the landscape can take many forms. A common one within Joshua Tree National Park is homesteads and the large amounts of materials used in mining operations that may have been left hidden within the land where Joshua Tree National Park exists. Donovan: Wait a second. Ian, you are telling me that if I go wandering through the park, I might come across some historical treasure. Last I check, the visitor centers don't have treasure maps. Ian: All right. why well, yes, but no. Well, one of the amazing things about cultural landscapes is the collection of archeological evidence. They hold those artifacts and items. Are more than just historic trash. They also have significance by simply being within the context in which they are found. That context is an essential part of what a cultural landscape is. While there is no secret treasure or map, even a simple hike on a trail found on the park map can reveal hidden stories. Donovan: And of course, if you do find something, you must leave it where you found it. In order to preserve that context. For example, visitors could potentially come across a surely useless rusty can in a seemingly random part of the park. But what a lot of people don't realize is that that can has been left there on purpose. That's because that can, being left where it was last used provides context as to who might have used that area before. It reminds me of one of those most common principles of leave no trace, which is take only pictures, leave only footprints. This not only applies to natural resources, but cultural and historical ones as well. Ian: Totally. And with Joshua Tree National Park's vast history, there are quite a few cultural landscapes found within the park, but you know what? We should talk to Joshua Tree National Park's very own historical landscape architect, Genna, she's awesome and will have a lot to share on this subject. Genna: I'm Genna Mason Bjornstad. I'm a historical landscape architect at the park here, and I'm the lead for the Historic Preservation program. A cultural landscape is a place that represents an important thing in history. It could be associated with a person. It could be associated with an event in history or could be representative of a design, a theme in Joshua Tree. We have quite a few cultural landscapes that are associated with the mining that took place in the park. There's the Lost Horse historic Mining District. There's the Northern Pinion Historic Mining District. There's the Pinion Mountain Mining District. There's also the Keys Ranch Historic District, which is associated with the mining, but it's more of a habitation site where there was a family living and home studying. Here we have five that are currently documented with a cultural landscape inventory. We have two more cultural landscape inventories in the works right now, and there are many other cultural landscapes within the park too that have not been fully documented, but have been recorded either as archeological sites or parts of them, but we'll get there. Ian: All right, let's quickly break all that down. Defining a cultural landscape is all about looking at the interaction of historical or manmade resources and the chunks of natural landscapes they exist in and even possibly change with their presence. It takes a lot of work to determine where the cultural landscape ends and the natural and largely undisturbed landscape begins. This process of defining helps to identify things like developments, significance, natural register of historic places, and other valuable information. The landscapes can illustrate many things though, and they can even paint out broad patterns of American history that are more recent than people may imagine, like Mission 66 architecture. Genna: Mission 66 historic districts that incorporate areas of development from the Mission 66 building program time when throughout the park service there was a lot of construction going on in development in national parks to celebrate the 50 year anniversary of the Organic act. And in Joshua Tree, we have the Cottonwood Mission 66 Historic District, which incorporates the Cottonwood Ranger Station and the housing area and the campground as well. And also our entrance monuments are from the Mission 66 era entrance monuments. Ian: Do you mean the signs that everyone likes to take their picture in front of? Genna: Yes. We are kind of inventorying everything that's associated with that historic period. or even the things that aren't associated with it, just so that we can understand what's in that landscape altogether. And you know, the cultural landscape inventory itself is kind of a framework for standardizing and identifying what is within that landscape we are looking for. The NPS has identified 13 different characteristics that are part of a cultural landscape that can kind of incorporate everything that is in there. It includes circulation networks, like roads and trails. It includes natural systems and features, the topography, buildings and structures, constructed water features. Vegetation, that's an important one for cultural landscapes. Small scale features, the archeological sites, the cultural traditions. That's one that can be a little bit less obvious on the landscape. The arrangement, the cluster arrangement of things on the landscape too. Views and vistas, and social organization and land use. Some of these kind of overlap a little bit. Landscapes…as small as just the landscape around a house, for example. Or it can be a whole neighborhood, a whole mining district. I think the Lost Horse historic mining district is over 8,000 acres. There's a lot out there and there's a lot of different features that take a while to access because you have to hike to all of them. Well, some of them you can drive to, but it involves a lot of data organization too and keeping track. What we've looked at, where we've been and a lot of research to make sure that we're identifying things that are historic versus things that are not historic. What is actually associated with that period in time. The period of significance and what has been added afterward. The rule of thumb is that if it's fifty years or older, we need to evaluate it for historic significance which the significance can be one or more of the four criteria. If it's associated with an important person in history, an important event. If it has the potential to yield future data, like archeological information or a historic style of design or a method of construction. If it's representative of that, and of course some of these things can, some historic buildings or cultural landscapes can be associated with more than one of these criteria. Ian: Keeping a comprehensive inventory of all historically significant landscapes is very important to the National Park Service. The information from the service-wide cultural landscape inventory, or CLI, is useful at all levels of the Park Service. If we zoom out to a national or regional perspective, it's useful for planning efforts and budget decisions. On a park to park level, it helps managers plan and prioritize projects and how to spend funds. It also serves as a record of management decisions and helps with informing and enhancing interpretive programs like Joshua Trees Keys Ranch Tour. Now, while the Keys Ranch is a set of historical structures that you actually need a Ranger guided tour to visit, there are an abundance of others located inside the park. Genna: We have a lot. We have just around 200 that are fully documented, but there are a lot more out there too and for historic structures. We're talking about anywhere from a full building, like for example, the Black Rock Nature Center, which is a young historic building all the way to a small retaining wall that could be along a historic road that is now used as a trail in the park. There are a lot of things involved in maintaining the historic structures in the park. Research and understanding the history of those structures and how they've been maintained to this point is a really important factor in that. And working together with other divisions to try to make sure that we're taking care of these things appropriately. And then also we do a lot of preservation projects. For example, out at Keys Ranch, we do a lot of stabilization work on the fences and the structures. The buildings out there understanding the full history. Why it's there, how it was constructed, what it was constructed with, who made it, and what's changed since it was constructed. Those are all important things to be thinking in informing us about how we can continue to take care of them. And it's all part of the integrity, the historic integrity of these features. The integrity is kind of the authenticity. How accurate is it today to how it was historically for that period of signific. Donovan: Now, if we had the opportunity to put visitors who come to Joshua Tree National Park into a time machine, we would show them a cultural landscape in its historic state, but we don't have a time machine, so preservation is the next best thing, and that is exactly what Genna is here to do. Her work has allowed us to, well, let's just say change the clock of time. Genna: There are four treatment types and that's throughout the whole NPS that are called out in the secretary of the interior standards for the treatment of historic properties, and they include preservation, which I also use as the blanket term for all of these. So don't be confused. There's rehabilitation, there's reconstruction, and there's restoration. If you think of these as a clock, that's a good example that they use in historic preservation school, a lot preservation. As that clock is moving forward, we're constantly moving it back to a certain time, and hopefully it's just small adjustments that don't have to happen often. That clock is going to move forward a lot faster, and then suddenly we have to really shift it back. For rehabilitation, we're moving that clock forward a little bit. We're adapting that location or that building to modern uses. Still, this happens a lot when it's a structure that we're building or a cultural landscape that we are using for modern day uses like a visitor center. There are a lot of historic visitor centers in the National Park Service, and they have to be compliant with modern standards for accessibility or for IT equipment, things like that. There are some adjustments that have to be made. Then there's restoration. You're moving that clock back pretty drastically. Restoration is when you're removing those things from the landscape that have been added after that period of significance to restore it to its historic appearance. And then reconstruction. This is where we've completely lost the clock, and we need to create a totally new clock that looks and acts just like the old. So maybe it's lost a fair amount of that authenticity, but at least we still have something that is representative of it. Overall, we use preservation the most, and it definitely depends on the cultural landscape or the site that we're working on. Actually, most of our cultural landscapes are preservation treatment. Even within a building or a cultural landscape, you can have more than one of those preservation treatment types. A lot of times zones will be called out for addressing needs in a certain area. At Key's Ranch we have the visitor access road and then the parking area. And that is an area that we treat differently than the main Ranch complex, which is predominantly preservation efforts, but the access road in the parking area is more of a rehabilitation. We need to have a vault toilet there. We need to be able to take care of visitor needs out there too. We use the preservation treatment on most of the structures at Keys Ranch. We're trying to stabilize existing fence lines or stabilizing the buildings out there for the visitor access to the site. That area where we drive through and park and there's a vault toilet that's not historic. That would be rehabilitation. We don't have many examples, if any, of reconstruction. I think that it's a treatment that is much less frequently used than it was at one time. But for example, out at Keys Ranch, there was an Adobe barn that used to be in front of the machine shed, and it started to collapse throughout the Keys occupancy of the site. It was in pretty poor shape, if not completely collapsed by the time that the Park Service acquired the location. We have chosen to not reconstruct the Adobe barn. For a while, there was kind of a little camper trailer and another little road section that was added to the center of the ranch complex for a caretaker to camp at. That was not historic so that was later removed. That is an example of restoration. Donovan: Okay. S…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    Wildlife Mar 15, 2023
    Show notes

    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet, we connect with Wildlife Ecologist Michael Vamstad. With his insight, we dive into the wonderful world of Joshua Tree National Park’s wildlife, consider the special care that goes into conserving their populations, and discuss tips on how you can help protect and possibly spot some on your trip to the park. ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Donovan:  Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Cahuilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land in which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place and we pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in Memorial. Donovan: Hi, I'm Donovan. Ian: And I'm Ian. Donovan: And we're both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park. Where Two Deserts meet is a podcast where we investigate topics that often require a bit more detail, and sometimes, the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Ian: Donovan, have you heard any good animal facts recently? Donovan: My favorite go-to animal fact is that the rattlesnakes that we have in the park smell with their tongues. Ian: Elaborate. Donovan: Joshua Tree National Park is home to six different species of rattlesnakes which are part of the pit viper family. Pit vipers have special pit organs that they use to catch prey. Those cute little tongues that pop in and out of the rattlesnake’s mouth help transfer the smells and temperatures of its surrounding. The pit organs are located in the front of the face and they allow the rattlesnakes to sense out the smell and heat of its prey. Ian: I'll admit that is a pretty good fact, but I've got a few of my own tucked up my sleeve. Did you know the desert tortoise moves at an average speed of 0.2 miles per hour. Donovan: Okay, but how long would it take them to get to the other side? Ian: Very clever. Donovan: I'm sure that both of us can go on and on, but you know who would have even better facts about some of the wildlife here at Joshua Tree National Park Wildlife ecologists? Michael Vamstad. He always has some great insight about some of the amazing animals in this park such as bats, bighorn, and big old tortoises. Michael: My name is Michael Vamstad and I'm the wildlife ecologist here at Joshua Tree. Ian: Tree National Park is home to hundreds of different species of wildlife, including roughly 250 different species of birds and about 150 types of mammals and reptiles. As you can imagine, the roles and responsibilities of the lead wildlife ecologists here are very diverse. it's Michael's job to monitor and work with many of these species within the park, but some often require special attention. Michael: The most common species that I work with, or the ones I spend the most time on, are the endangered species or the species that are of special management concern: desert tortoise, and big horn sheep. Nesting raptors are another thing that every year we spend a lot of time. Donovan: In 1973, the Endangered Species Act was signed into law creating protections for all plants and wildlife listed as threatened or endangered. This law requires all federal agencies to consult with the US Fish and Wildlife Service to ensure that the actions they authorize, fund, or carry out are not likely to jeopardize the continued existence. Any listed species or result in the destruction or adverse modification of designated critical habitat of such species. That was a mouthful, but essentially, it's saying that there are millions of species on planet Earth and tools like the Endangered Species Act help us better protect species who are at high risk of extinction. There is quite a lengthy process to get a species listed as endangered, but of course, the first step is figuring out what species needs our help. Michael: An endangered species is simply just a species that has seen its numbers shrink or its habitat shrink. Its numbers are to a point where we're concerned about it being able to self-sustain into the future. A classic example would be the condors or the bald eagle, where DDT thinned their eggs to a point where we weren't seeing very many bald eagles. When they classify the species as endangered, it's really based on their abundances and distributions, when there’s been a big change in reduction. You have fewer of them around and fewer places. The desert tortoise is like the main one that the US Fish and Wildlife has listed for us. It’s the one that is inhabited in the park, the one we spend the most time on. There are a few other species like the yellow-billed cuckoo and the California gnatcatcher and a couple rails that come through the park during migration. There’s not a lot the park can do to manage endangered species, per se, because they're just passing through. We really focus on our resident species that are having a hard time. We have a couple plants that are also endangered, but the desert tortoise clearly gets the most attention from the park to conserve them. We really have some of the best protected habitat for the desert tortoise in the Mojave Desert. We really try to protect the best we can, and then keep our millions of visitors away from affecting them negatively in any way. The populations of desert tortoise have really changed in Joshua Tree since like eighties and nineties. During that time we did some very light surveys to get an idea of abundance or how many of them were on the landscape. And it turns out there’s anywhere between thirty or forty, or sometimes even close to fifty tortoises counted per square kilometer. Nowadays when we do those surveys, we're only finding three to four tortoises per square kilometer. So going from thirty down to three is a huge change. And as a scientist, we call that an order of magnitude reduction. That means usually like a tenfold reduction. And there's really little that you can argue about that kind of change. A lot of scientists, we look at different survey methods. Each survey method is a little different, so your numbers can be a little different, but when it is an order of magnitude change, thirty down to three, it's kind of undeniable. At that point, historically, we had pretty good populations in the park and we probably had close to 30,000 tortoises in Joshua Tree. And nowadays I estimate about 3000 tortoises. We've been a putting these little radio transmitters on the back of tortoises. What that allows us to do is to go out once every couple weeks to see where they're at and to see how they're moving on the landscape. Do they move miles at a time or do they just move a hundred feet at a time? Do they keep a same home range over the years, or do they really change and move around? And so, what we're trying to figure out, how can we get an idea of the movement patterns for those tortoises that live by roads? Is there a way to work with our million visitors and all that traffic on our roads to keep the tortoises from getting smashed on the roads? For example, during rainstorms, we've found that they tend to go towards wherever the water is. This can be the road. We have signage at each one of our entrances that tells people, “There’s a rainstorm right now. Please watch out for tortoises on the road. Those rocks on the road may not be a rock, but a tortoise drinking water. Additionally, we have tortoise crossing signs in the park that make people aware that tortoises are there and to drive slowly to avoid hitting them. That really is the biggest issue that we have. Ian: The desert tortoise was added to the federal endangered species lists in 1990 after a significant reduction in their numbers was observed over the past few decades in Joshua Tree National Park. Estimates from past research indicate there were approximately thirty tortoises per square kilometer. However, there is now an average of roughly three tortoises per square kilometer. That's a massive 90% reduction of the population within. Tortoises that were once abundant roaming the desert and a relatively common site are now something you need to be lucky or diligent to find. Michael: Yeah, the big reduction that we saw from the late eighties and nineties to now. We believe had two big issues that happened at the same time, and they worked together synergistically and negatively. An upper respiratory tract disease was introduced to the desert tortoise sometime in the late nineties, but we think it didn't get into the park until the early 2000s. What happened is that they basically get a really bad cold during a time when they need to conserve. Imagine having a really runny nose from a chest or a head cold, but you couldn't drink water to hydrate yourself. These tortoises were dying from the disease. This was coupled with drought. We’re also seeing these recurring severe droughts happening in the Mojave and we really believe that's from climate change. The effect of climate change is more severe droughts. And then you have this disease issue going through the population at the same time. Those two things working together reduce the tortoise population in the park. We believe the disease came from a pet tortoise or a tortoise in captivity that got introduced into the park. It's not a native bacterium that got into the tortoise. We've seen it in other reptiles and predominantly within the pet trade of tortoises across the globe. The mycoplasma agassizii, which is the name of the bug that got into the tortoise here in the Mojave, was really derived from other mycoplasma and bacterium from around the world. Ian: Michael brings up a great reminder here that the wild desert tortoises that we have inside the park shouldn't have play dates with any pet tortoises you may have at home. It's nothing personal. They just don't have the same immune systems, and honestly, they are quite the homebody anyway. They're small population numbers in the park. Paired with their homebody behavior of spending most of their life underground, can make desert tortoises come off as quite aloof or mysterious. Because of this, they're often one of the most asked about species by park visitors. However, as exciting as it can be to see one, it's important to remember to respect their personal bubble and keep your distance. Donovan: While tortoises are definitely a fan favorite among park visitors, a species that always stays neck and neck with the tortoise for most sought-after sighting is the big horn sheep. Some people might also know them as rams, but the term ram actually refers to a male big horn sheep with the iconic curled horn. On the other hand, female big horn sheep are actually called ewe spelled e w e. Bighorn sheep are one of our larger mammal species that we have inside the park, but honestly, there is something very magical about getting to see one in the arid desert. One could easily fall for the misconception that since they are large, they should be easy to find in the park. However, they are impressive experts in camouflage and do their best impressions of the beige granite boulders in the park by employing a similarly colored coat and often remaining quite still while out and about. With the massive size of the park, this means that visitors are often playing a very difficult game of hide and seek with big horn sheep. Michael: Big horn sheep in Joshua Tree really are a very difficult species to find. You'd think because they're pretty big they'd be pretty easy to find, but they are rock dwelling creatures in some of the most rugged and rigorous habitats in the park. It’s very difficult to count them or to get a real good understanding. But we do see them during certain times of the year. They need to drink open water, mainly in the hottest months of the year. In July, August, even into September, we see them around water sources. When it comes to viewing them or finding them, or for us to count them, we try to go in the summertime to these places. We set up cameras to take infrared triggered photos with these wildlife cameras. Really interesting stuff. We know that their populations really expand and decline, and the literature really reflects that. When mountain ranges in the Mojave get a really good monsoon or good winter rain, the forage is really good, but then another mountain system, literally 10, 20 miles away may not get any of that. The sheep that are in those mountains having a really hard time generally don't expand, but the ones where they got the really good rain, do expand. The lambs are born very well. They’re super healthy. They ewes are providing quality milk to those lambs so they're able to survive. Whereas the sheep that are in those mountains that are in less than ideal, they may not have any lambs that survive. It really is dealing with the conditions of the land in Joshua Tree. We've had a couple of issues. Everything seemed to be rolling pretty good when times were good. The sheep were everywhere. But we also had disease come in too. Just four or five years ago, we identified a strain of mycoplasma. Again, you probably heard that's from the bacterium that the tortoises had. The same similar bacterium is actually in bighorn sheep causing very similar issues, upper respiratory distress. They lose a lot of water though basically mucus and other things like that, and it makes it really hard for them to survive. The adults generally can get over it, but the lambs succumb to it almost a hundred percent of the time. Very, very few times do we see a lamb that gets sick from the disease that makes it through. Conditions are just so hard in the summer, and if they get that sickness, they don't survive. It also highlights the importance of connectivity in the sense of looking at the desert. Areas that got really good rain, got good plant response, therefore really good forage for the bighorn sheep. But then this range over here doesn't. In the past, when there weren't any highways in between or any solar fields in between or other things that humans development that prevents that movement, bighorn sheep were able to move in between different herds and repopulate from good, healthy herds over here to repopulate the herds that were struggling. That’s called a metapopulation dynamic. It was originally described for butterflies. Where resources would be really good in one area, the butterflies would do really, really well one year, but in another area they would all almost go extinct. That is a big challenge with the bighorn sheep management. We know where these connections between large land masses for the sheep have been fragmented. Ian: Often when discussing the topic of big horn sheep visitors will mention sightings at other park service sites such as Rocky Mountain National Park. While there is some uncanny resemblance between the sheep here and there, the ones in Joshua Tree often appear much smaller in size. On top of that, they will often behave differently, but that makes sense when you take into account the harsh and dry climate of the desert compared to the cool and mountainous areas of the Rockies. Michael: The bighorn sheep in the desert are called the Nelson's Desert Bighorn Sheep. That’s actually their full common name, and they are quite different in size and even coloration than the Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep which you tend to see in Colorado, Northern Nevada, Montana, some of these other places with the Rocky Mountains. They tend to be bigger, bulkier animals. And when I drive through that area of Colorado and I see sheep along the side of the road, I'm always taken back like, wow, these guys are big and they're heavy. They're called the Rocky Mountai…

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    Dark Night Skies Mar 15, 2023
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    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet, we chat with Physical Science Technicians Stacey Manson & Megan Richie. Together, we examine what makes the night sky so special, what we can do to better protect it for future generations, and how to best take it in while visiting Joshua Tree National Park. ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Ian:  Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Cahuilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land on which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place. We pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in. Donovan: Hi, I'm Donovan. Ian: And I'm Ian. Donovan: And we're both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park, where two deserts meet is a podcast where we investigate topics that often require a bit more detail, and sometimes the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Ian: I got to say Donovan, don't you think it's fascinating that out of all the visitors that visit Joshua Tree National Park, most of them don't even see the other half of the other half. Donovan: You mean like the south end of the park? Ian: No, the other half of the park is after dark. Donovan: Oh, you're right. I guess it is a bit strange, at least for me, since that's actually one of my favorite things here at Joshua Tree. Ian: Yeah, the dark night sky that can be seen in Joshua Tree is so spectacular. In fact, the park is actually an international dark sky park, which essentially means that Joshua Tree National Park possesses an exceptional or distinguished quality of starry nights and a nocturnal environment that is specifically protected for its scientific, natural, educational, cultural heritage, and for the public enjoyment. Donovan: Especially the summer Milky Way that's visible during the new moon phase of the lunar cycle really expresses just how dark the night can get out here. Ian: Oh yeah. I always like to remind people that one important piece of information to keep in mind when trying to plan your trip around the great night skies is check that lunar cycle. Coming to the park on a full moon versus a new moon can make a world of difference with your star visibility. Donovan: Don't get me wrong though. Visiting the park after dark during a full moon is still great too, because to me that means that the moon will be bright enough that you can see the rocks in the Joshua trees even after the sun goes down. Especially, it's a great time to experience our nocturnal wildlife. Ian: Ooh, yeah, A bit of a loony experience, you might say. Donovan: Okay. Yeah, but, well, it's just something about getting to experience the night sky with the Milky Way gasses and those purples and blues covered by trillions and trillions of little glowing orbs with the occasional shooting star crossing your site. That's just really extra spectacular. Ian: You know, I'm glad we're talking about this, Donovan. It's a good time because with the end of summer approaching a various special event is coming. The Joshua Tree, national Park Night Sky Festival. Donovan: I love the Night Sky Festival. Ian: Ah, yeah, same, same. The Night Sky Festival is an amazing event with astronomers, telescopes, stories, and excitement. So as we are getting ready for that event, I figured we could do a little research ahead of time to prepare for what we'll see. Donovan: Well, you know me, I love to prepare ahead. I'll call Megan Ritchie and Stacy Manson and see if they're available to chat. They are super helpful with all things night sky. Stacy: Hi, I'm Stacy Manson and I'm a physical science tech here at Joshua Tree. My job duties consist of monitoring three air quality stations, ten portable weather stations, monitoring groundwater, soundscapes night skies, and mitigating abandoned mine land hazards. Megan: My name is Megan Richie, and I am also a physical science technician here at Joshua Tree National Park. I assist in natural resource monitoring, including our air quality, drilled water wells, weather stations, soundscape, dark night skies, and closing abandoned mineral lands. Donovan: I think it's safe to say that Megan and Stacy have a long list of duties that they're in charge of here at the park. Something that was clear during the interview was their love for what they do and what inspires them to help conserve our night. Megan: Viewing the dark sky. I had to have been around eight years old and my parents, you know, I grew up in a mid-sized city, but they woke me up in the middle of the night. We grabbed our sleeping bags and we laid out on the deck. And my memory, if my memory serves me right, I just remember looking up and just seeing meteors or flashes of light. I didn't really understand what I was looking at, but that was my first experience with the night sky. And then coming here to Joshua Tree, seeing the Milky Way for the first time, because growing up in the Southeast you don't see the Milky Way. But coming out here, I couldn't keep my eyes off the sky. I think it's a very personal experience. It's special and everybody experiences it differently. It's something that I feel that can connect you with your present, your past, and your future. I think it's just beautiful. Stacy: For me, I think the moment that I fell in love with the sky was probably even before elementary school. Very young. My parents had a balcony off their master bedroom and they would set up a bed for us. They would take a mattress out there with sheets and blankets. Myself and my four siblings would all go out there and lay on this bed and just watch the night sky. It was a way for us to bond together to be amazed by the sky above us, to watch meteors, to just watch stars, look for constellations. It was so important as like a family unit to have that bonding experience. That kind of cemented my love of the night Skies. Ian: So as we mentioned earlier, Joshua Tree National Park is an international dark sky. Which doesn't just mean you can see a lot of stars at night. There is also a sort of community effort going on in order to give you that experience. Stacy and Megan play key roles in working through each requirement for that designation. Stacy: To become an international dark sky place, you first must have a group of people that are actually interested in protecting a nightscape. People that want to see the stars. Certification involves creating lighting policies, rehabilitating poor quality lighting, educating your neighbors visitors, and about the importance of why do we want to protect our night skies. And then you also must commit to that conservation effort. It's not just one and done, it's a continual commitment to protecting night skies. Park staff have been working on the certification process for years long before I even started back in 2006. The park had to inventory outdoor lighting, retrofit the poor lighting, create a lighting management plan to ensure proper outdoor lighting in the future, and then also document the average sky brightness in the park throughout different areas in the park. We also worked with community members to protect the night sky. There's been a long effort to work with the San Bernardino County to create lighting ordinances that protect the high desert communities. The park continues to educate the public about the importance of a dark night sky and participates in annual night sky festivals hosted at Sky’s the Limit Observatory in Twentynine Palms, CA every year. The park also has to submit an annual report that highlights our commitment to conserving the dark night skies in Joshua Tree. I think one of the reasons that you see that some places are dark night skies and some aren't, is some places have darker skies and you already have people that have been there for a long time going to these places to view the night skies. Places like Los Angeles, where you have a lot of artificial light and there's not a whole lot of stars to be seen, you don't have a whole lot of people living there that are like, “oh man, I wanna protect the skies,” because they just don't know those skies exist. Megan: Yeah, and I'll piggyback off of what Stacy was talking about community engagement and just getting people outside at night and experiencing the dark sky and getting them excited and passing on their knowledge that they learned to keep our certification up because we want to protect those stars. The East Coast is littered in artificial light, but the West coast is something that we can still protect those dark skies. Stacy: When Joshua Tree got its certification, The International Dark Sky Association was designating places on a tiered system. You had bronze, you had silver, and you had gold. Gold was like almost perfect, dark night sky, complete absent of artificial light to bronze where you could still see a decent amount of stars but there was also a lot of artificial light in the area. Joshua Tree, on our Western end, we actually meet more of that bronze criteria, but on the eastern end of the park where there's almost no communities out there, it's in the remote desert, we, we almost met the gold standard. We were able to combine those two to designate ourself as a silver tier park. Donovan: The beauty of the night sky here at Joshua Tree National Park is that people travel from all over the world to see it. But why is that? Why do we not see the same dark night skies in our own hometowns, especially if we live in high populated areas such as big cities? Stacy: The ability to see stars does vary based off your location. More rural areas, you're going to see more stars. More urban areas, you're going to see less stars. The reason for that is artificial light. Artificial light goes up in the atmosphere and scatters and creates that kind of blanket of light and it dims the stars so you're just not able to see them. Areas like Los Angeles where there's very large amount of people with a lot of lights on, you're just not going to see as many stars as you do here in Joshua Tree where you have much smaller communities. Megan: I'm from a mid-size city in the Southeast, and one of the first things I noticed when I moved to the Joshua Tree area is just how dark it is out here. I had truly never experienced that kind of darkness. Like having your hand in front of your face and not even be able to see your hand. And I think bouncing off of what Stacy was saying is not only just the lights, but out here in the desert, we have what I call 360 degree view of the sky horizon to sky horizon. A lot of cities have tall buildings and even other rural areas have tall trees. It really obstructs what is straight up above you. What's really unique and special about being out here in a rural desert is that the sky is the limit. You have such a huge canvas of stars up there and it just makes this area very special at night. And it draws quite a good people out here. Donovan: The general rule of thumb is when looking for a dark night sky, no matter where you're at, the farther away you get from light pollution, the better your visibility of the stars will be. This experience is because of our natural biology. To keep it simple. As our eyes adjust to the dark, they start to create a chemical called rhodopsin which helps our eyes see in low light exposure. Bright lights can bleach the rhodopsin. An example of this would be when you're walking down the street at night and a car drives by with their headlights on, and it might make you feel like you've been blinded momentarily. It often takes several minutes before your eyes are able to readjust again to the dark. Yes, bright lights can affect your rhodopsin, but red light is actually a great tool used by astronomers because it doesn't bleach your rhodopsin. This is mainly because the length of the light waves is much longer. Unfortunately, though light pollution isn't the only thing that can hinder your view of the night sky, other forms of pollution can obstruct our view as well. Light pollution at night is a big contributor to not being able to see stars, but there's also air pollution. Stacy: Just like during the day, as you mentioned, you'll be in a valley and you're looking across the way. If the air quality's good, you can see the mountains on the other side of the valley very clearly and crisply. But then you'll notice on some days you'll be standing in that valley. When you look across, the mountains are hazy. You may not even be able to see the mountains or behind the mountains. You'll just see the foothills of the mountains. That's because of particle air pollution. We call it particulate matter pollution. What's happening is similar to what you see during the day as the light hits particles and scatters. The more particles you have in the air, the more that light is going to scatter. So just like during the day, at nighttime, starlight and artificial light gets scattered by that air pollution by those particles, and it makes what we call sky glow, a kind of dome over the city where light is trapped. So, air pollution is a big factor in our ability to see stars at night. Megan: Yeah. our little desert town is growing. We live, walk, and drive on sand, stirring it up. These sources of fugitive dust might seem something small, but when you have these big open areas where they are developing pretty rapidly, it contributes to the bigger haze in the area and therefore obstructs our night sky. Donovan: Believe it or not, we aren't the only species that needs a dark night sky. Since the beginning of time, plants and animals have adapted to be reliant on the night sky, and a few of those adaptations are still visible in the park today with Joshua Tree National Park, encompassing two desert ecosystems. The plant and animals that live within the park are no strangers to harsh daily temperatures so the night sky is a critical component to their survival. Stacy: We have the plant Datura wrightii also known as Sacred Datura. And it is a plant that is known to be a vespertine flowering plant. What that means is that it's reliant on the night for blooming. If you've been in the desert and you've seen the beautiful big white trumpet flowers of the datura plant blooming, they'll bloom in the evenings throughout the night and then also in the morning. They're pollinated by moss and other night critters. It's just a really cool plant to see. If you're out on a moonlight hike, you're going to see the datura blooming, and they're just stunning. There's animals out there that a lot of their behaviors kick in when it’s dark. Frogs and toads, they're mating rituals, require darkness. They'll do their croaking and that's important for them to be able to mate. Artificial light can disrupt these behaviors. And then for humans, we have been intrigued by the skies for as long as you can remember. It's inspired art philosophy, mythology, religions, science. It's such an important resource. The stars help us navigate. You have the North Star, which is about one degree off from our North Pole. Because of that star always in the northern sky, we can use that to help us navigate in a north direction. Specific constellations will come up and they mark the passing of the seasons. Ian: As Stacey mentioned, there are a lot of forms of life that are dependent on clear and starry skies. However, as technology has progressed throughout time, people have started recognizing change. Within the night sky today, more tha…

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    Trails Mar 15, 2023
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    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet, we hit the trail with Trail Crew Member Dalton Moore and PSAR Coordinator Anna Marini. With their help, we explore what it takes to construct and maintain the trails for you to enjoy and discuss the ins and outs of staying safe while doing it. ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Ian: Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Cahuilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land on which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place. We pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in. Donovan: Hi, I'm Donovan. Ian: And I'm Ian. Donovan: And we're both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park, where two deserts meet is a podcast where we investigate topics that often require a bit more detail, and sometimes the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Ian: Donovan, you know, if we're going to do an episode about trails in Joshua Tree, we must address that one question, the one that everyone deep down wants to know. Donovan: Where are the bathrooms in the park? Ian: Okay. That's very important. But no, what is our favorite hike? Donovan: Oh, right. Because the ranger's favorite hike is likely secretly the best hike in the park? Ian: I can totally see how one could imagine that someone who worked here would've come to an eye-opening epiphany of the absolute best trail. But funny enough, it's the opposite. With my years spent here, I've realized every trail has something to offer and the one I'm headed to on any given day is just the one I'm in the mood for. It's as simple as that. Donovan: And sometimes that mood can depend on what the weather is. A hike that might be my favorite at the time in the winter could be my worst nightmare in the summer. Ian: Ooh, yeah. Truly, it's just logistically complicated to have a single favorite. No matter how I get asked it. I struggle to find answer. Donovan: And not to mention that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I've had a visitor come into the center and tell me that the trail that they hiked was so beautiful that they cried. But at the same time, not even five minutes later, another visitor came in who hiked the same trail and informed me that it was a big waste of time for them. Sometimes we like different things and that's okay, Ian: And sometimes what I want is just to see everything that is possibly available in a list form, because I must know every possible option before deciding. Donovan: Well, that's a way to do it, and that's why we have those lists available in the visitor centers and our park website and the NPS official app. Once someone has their trail selected, that's where Ian and I come in at the visitor centers providing tips on how to have a good time on those trails. Usually mentioning that if you want a more secluded hiking experience, starting the trail early is the way to go. Ian: Speaking of getting up early, I'm reminded of some of the behind the scenes work that goes into making these. It all happens early in the morning with our trails crew. We should talk to trail crew member Dalton Moore. Donovan: That's funny that you thought of trail crew because when I think of getting up early, I think of the heat safety signs that our preventative search and rescue program puts out. Anna Marini, the coordinator of the preventative search and rescue program would be a great person to talk to also. Ian: You know what? Let's just talk to them both. Yeah, let's do it. Dalton: My name is Dalton Moore and I work on the trail crew in Joshua Tree. Donovan: Dalton is just one of the many trail crew members here at Joshua Tree National Park. They play a critical role in building and maintaining the hundreds of miles of trails in the park. But what does an average workday look like for a trails crew member? Dalton: An average workday for a trail crew member begins at 6:00 AM, showing up, ready to go with your food, your water, and any comfort items you may need in your backpack. We'll do a morning briefing. We just talk about the day really quickly, and then crews will load up into trucks and drive to their project sites where they could be doing a variety of different things. Usually ends up being dry stone masonry, where we're building trail structures. Crews will then spend the next eight hours or so out in the field where they'll, they'll shape rock, they'll construct structures, they'll drill rock, and they'll eat lunch out in the field. They'll eat snacks out in the field. They'll drink water. They'll do all their normal things, and then they will probably leave the field around three o'clock or so with a goal of getting back to the office by four thirty. Ian: The projects the trail crew works on can take months, even years of planning and hard physical labor. Depending on where they're working in the park, the crew will utilize the resources around them to create a more natural look to the trail and have less impact. While Joshua Tree might not have giant sequoias or other dense vegetation to help construct trails, we do have a few key resources that play a role in our trail. Dalton: In Joshua Tree, projects usually consist of building trail structures out of stone. Normally this is stone that is quarried out in the field and they are building steps, water bars, or retaining walls on the trails. In other parks, you could be building these structures out of logs, but since we're in the desert, we don't how many trees but we have a lot of boulder piles. We usually try and query up those boulder piles to make structures about five years before projects. We collect the data on them and that the data consists of what we want to do in these areas or where we see erosion happening or resource damage happening. And we submit the, data of those project site locations to the resources department and they go out in the field and they assess and they usually let us know where is okay to quarry from and where we should hold off. Ian: Our monzogranite boulders often being known for their durability but when a trail gets thousands of visitors a day, it can see quite a bit of wear and tear trails along Park Boulevard, especially high usage because that's where most of the awesome Joshua Trees and big old boulders can be found within the park. This includes some of the most asked about trails in the park; Barker Dam and Hidden Valley. They can see over hundreds of thousands of visitors a year. This means that the trail crew not only helps build new trails but maintains the existing one. Biggest thing tends to be erosion from rain and wind. But then we also see a lot of social trails that happen since we're in the desert and we don't have defined trail corridors. It can be kind of hard to navigate sometimes. So there's a lot of big webs that get created. We try to lessen those number of webs by keeping people on the trails and creating more obvious paths. Donovan: Unfortunately, the trails crew aren't the only humans building trails within the park, often done unintentionally, the creation of social trails is a huge concern for park management. Some social trails can be caused by park visitors trying to access points of interest, rock climbing routes, and sometimes by someone simply getting turned around on a trail. Some of these social trail areas that have been around for quite some time have been developed into established paths such as the rock climbing, access routes to Hall of horrors, or the Oyster Bar. And before we go on, know, sadly you will not find an actual oyster bar there, but just some cool rocks that might resemble some oysters. However, social trails can cause more issues than one would think. Social trails often lead to the destruction of delicate ecosystems, trample desert, vegetation, and habitat. They can often become so defined that they resemble the actual trail, often leading people astray. Some of the maintenance that our trails crew does is helping fix the wear and tear from these social trails and natural erosion. Dalton: Erosion on the trails tends to look like trenching of the trail, which then leads to water channeling down the trail and furthering the erosion. So you get these trails that are really big trenches, essentially, and they're not very pleasant to walk on because it's not a level surface, it's kind of slippery. And so a lot of times what we do is we build stone steps in those trenches that encourages sheet erosion and makes the a durable surface for hikers to walk. We keep trails easy to follow by doing a couple things. I would say the first thing that we do is we prune the vegetation that's growing into the trail. In trails, we call that brushing. We brush out the trails and that makes it so that there's a clear line of sight of where you should walk. The other way that we kind of do that on some of our washer trails or trails that are in large sandy areas is we use signage. And a lot of times what that signage looks like is a trailhead sign at the beginning of the trail so you know where you are and then we use directional arrows. Also that lets you know whether to go straight or make a left or make a right. And, we try to use signage only when necessary or when it's obvious that people are getting lost or at the start of social trails. Ian: Some of the signs that you're on the right path might not be noticeable at first, but often tune into our common sense of what appears to be the easiest path. As mentioned earlier, most of the trails on Park Boulevard have giant boulders to help signify where to go. But in other areas of the park, such as Pinto Basin Road and the Cottonwood area, vegetation pruning, rock delineation in washes and directional arrows might be your only trail signs. It is extremely common to have several washes cross a trails path. One trail with such an issue is the Lost Palms Oasis trail, a seven and a half mile hike that is really only advisable during the winter months due to the extreme heat of the summer. Now, don't get fooled. Washes are notorious for resembling the trail. Washes are natural areas where large amounts of water moves in a particular direction sometimes across established trails, often clearing vegetation and debris, making the area look like a designated path. Make sure to always stay vigilant and look for those signs that you're actually on the right path. Donovan: As Dalton mentioned, there are a lot of different signs that they utilize to help let you know when you're on the right path. Of course, installing metal directional arrows can be pretty self-explanatory, but some of those natural signs using rocks and vegetation take a little bit more labor to make possible. Dalton: It all depends on where you're building material is. If you have a rock next to the trail you would drill into the rock and you drill a series of holes in the rock and then you use wedges and plug to split the rock so you get a flat surface. That is a good stepping surface because a lot of the rocks in Joshua Tree are kind of round and a little more bulbous. We split them to get a nice flat edge, and then you have to dig a hole and you put the rock in it, and you pin the rock in with other rocks. That process from walking up to the rock to when the step is finished can take anywhere from a day to three days depending on the surface that you're kind of digging into to set that rock. One way that we preserve the natural resources of the trail is by not damaging vegetation whenever possible, but also trying to leave some of those rock piles that are close to the trail. Importing rock is one way that we are able to preserve those rock piles and we import rock using either helicopters, which is something that we're going to be getting into within the next year or so. Helicopters, you can put a really long line on the bottom of it and they can act as a crane to pick up a load of rock and then you can set it In the trail. Another way that we transport building materials to project sites is by putting rocks into gas-powered wheelbarrows. Imagine tank tracks beneath a wheelbarrow so that you can drive heavy loads of rock onto trails. That's how we import rock to build trail structures. We may also highline; a high line is basically like a really slow zip line. We query a rock from less visible areas from the trail, and we put that rock on a really slow zip line so that the rock floats over the ground. We don't have to roll it on the ground basically. Ian: Importantly, deciding how and when to build trails isn't always a zipline process. The parks history and geography play a huge role in planning for new trails. Dalton: Previous park infrastructure has been a little bit difficult in Joshua Tree since a lot of our trail system has been developed from mapped social trails. Prior to the eighties, at some point, there was no official trails in Joshua Tree. They were all social trails that were then mapped and then added to the park, adopted them into its official trail system. What that means is that a lot of the trails maybe don't follow sustainable grades. They might be a little bit steep in some spots, or they might make sharp turns. Steep trails have increased erosion since the water can run down them really fast so that's been a challenge adapting those social trails and trying to have them meet proper trail standards. I think one of the good things about the historic roads in the park, and by historic, I'm probably talking like 1800s onward. From there, a lot of those roads go to kind of obvious viewpoints that have drawn people in for hundreds of years. They might lead to kind of an obscure peak or kind of a mine, or they go to a certain rock formation. In the desert, you have a really good line of sight, so you can see really far. People have been kind of attracted to the same places for a long time. A lot of the historic roads in the park follow washy areas. Flat areas, and those are fairly sustainable for the most part. They may not be the most pleasant to walk on since they're really sandy, but soil compaction has made it so that vegetation doesn't grow into the trails quite as much. And then a lot of the mines that might be higher up on the hillsides in Joshua Tree, a lot of those roads actually follow pretty decent grades. Super steep. They get you to high points, and the erosion on them is generally okay since they were constructed with road standards, which tend to be a little bit less aggressive than trail standards. Donovan: An example of a trail that utilizes a historic road is Lost Horse Mine trail, which is a six-and-a-half-mile loop or just four miles if you go to the mine and back on the historic road that leads to the mine. Whereas the Mastodon Loop trail, a three-mile trail that was constructed from older social trails associated with the Cottonwood Mining District. A fun fact about that trail is that no, there wasn't actually mastodon bones found at the site, but that miners at the time thought that the mountain range looked like a mastodon laying down. Areas often appear to be just beautiful landscapes, but are often full of natural and cultural resources. Considering these resources play a critical role when planning and maintaining trails within the park. Dalton: We plan for natural and cultural resources in the park by gathering data from a trails perspective what we think should be done to the existing trails. We then turn that data over to cultural and natural resources compliance process where we give subject matter e…

    Full show notes at the publisher

    Transition Zone Mar 11, 2023
    Show notes

    In this episode of Where Two Deserts Meet, we sit down with Dr. Cameron Barrows of the University of California – Riverside. With his assistance, we break down what exactly it means for two deserts to meet in Joshua Tree National Park, what that truly looks like out on the landscape, and how it is changing before our eyes. ---TRANSCRIPT:--- Donovan:  Where Two Deserts Meet is an official podcast of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree National Park acknowledges the Serrano, Cahuilla, Mojave, and Chemehuevi people as the original stewards of the land in which the park now sits. We are grateful to have the opportunity to work with the indigenous people in this place, and we pay our respects to the people past, present, and emerging who have been here since time in Memorial. Donovan: Hi, and welcome to Where Two Deserts Meet, a Joshua Tree National Park Official podcasts. My name is Donovan Ian: and I'm Ian. Donovan: And we're both park rangers here at Joshua Tree National Park, Where Two Deserts Meet is a podcast where we investigate topics that often require a bit more detail, and sometimes the help of an expert in the field to gain perspective. Ian: You know, I had a visitor recently asked me about where the line between the two deserts is and Joshua Tree. They were looking for a spot where they could pull off that stand in both places at once kind of thing. But I realized I don't really have a solid answer for them. I usually refer to our park brochure where we have the transition zone labeled or just tell them to look for certain plants that grow in each desert. Donovan: Yeah, that's still a great resource, but we've actually come to understand that it's a lot more complicated. At almost 800,000 acres, slightly bigger than the state of Rhode Island, Joshua Tree National Park is a large, vast open landscape of desert plants, animals, vibrant night skies, and fluctuating climate conditions. Joshua Tree National Park visitation has also skyrocketed to over 3 million visitors in the past few years, pulling in among the top 10 most visited national parks in the country. If you look at a general summary of Joshua Tree National Park in any sort of guide or travel blog, the first few lines usually start with Joshua Tree National Park, a place where two deserts meet, referring to the Mojave and the Colorado Deserts and the transition zone between them. Ian: But wait, what even is a transition zone? If we're going to use that terminology, we should probably define it, right? Donovan: Oh yeah, of course. But it's fairly hard to define. I have always been told that there's usually some good indicator plants that define where those boundary lines occur within the two deserts. Ian: All right, I got this. If I recall correctly, the well-recognized Colorado Desert plants are the Paloverde and the Ironwood, which are often seen down near the south entrance of the park. Whereas in the Mojave, you would look for the famous Joshua Trees, which are usually seen on the north side and especially along Park Boulevard. Donovan: Working in the visitor centers, I have actually seen a lot of confusion with this firsthand, especially visitors who come in through the south entrance of the park expecting to see a Joshua tree, not realizing that they're actually almost an hour south of the nearest Joshua tree. Ian: Yep. That's definitely something a lot of us, park rangers at Joshua Tree, have experienced. Donovan: But I personally think that driving through the transition zone between the Mojave and the Colorado Desert is a huge part of what actually makes Joshua Tree National Park so special. You drive around the corner from any direction, and suddenly new plant life and geological structures appear. For the visitors who are asking about this transition line, how do you usually describe to them where to go? Ian: Well, if I'm at one of the north side visitor centers, I usually tell them to start driving down towards the south end of the park, and they will visibly start to see a shift as they get further and further down. But there isn't really a definite line to look for, mostly because the line is changing. Donovan: Wait, how was it changing? Ian: Well, if you came to the park a few centuries ago, the transition zone might have looked fairly different. It's changing because of more than just one factor, but I know just the expert to talk to about this, Dr. Cameron Barrows of the University of California Riverside's Center for Conservation Biology. Ian: So, we've been driving about an hour now, and we've found ourselves on this beautiful campus. Where are we right now? Donovan: We're actually at the University of California Riverside, but they're extension campus over here in Palm Desert. What's kind of funny though, is when you're driving on the freeway, you wouldn't really know that you're hitting Palm Desert because it's labeled as other desert cities. Ian: Honestly, that's probably one of my favorite signs ever in the history of signs. It really does capture how people feel about the desert. There are a few big cities that everyone knows, like Palm Springs and Joshua Tree, but the other ones are just “other”…“other desert cities.” Cameron: Hello. My name is Dr. Cameron Barrows and I'm an emeritus professor or researcher with University of California Riverside, just recently retired. I've been working in the desert for about 35 years or so. Primarily developing conservation programs for endangered and rare species, but more recently focused on how animals and plants are interacting with their environment and how that environment has been affected by humans and more specifically, climate change. Ian: So, a project that I'm interested in hearing a little more about is one that is titled Managing Species in Transition Zones in the Face of Climate Change in Joshua Tree National Park. Can you tell us a little bit more about this and what spawned this project? Cameron: Sure. Well, what spawned the project was, probably ten, twelve years ago, there was a research publication that indicated that Joshua Trees would be eliminated from the California landscape as a result of climate change. I somewhat jokingly went to the National Park Service and said, “before you change your name to Creosote Bush National Park, maybe we should look at this in a little bit more detail and focus the scale on the park itself.” The park loved the idea, but they wanted us to look at more than just Joshua Trees, but at the entire ecosystem. As we all know, Joshua Tree straddles both the Mojave and the Colorado Deserts. That's the transition zone between the lower hotter dryer Colorado Desert, and the somewhat cooler, somewhat moister Mojave Desert. What we were looking for is a couple of dozen species to see how each of those might respond to climate change over time. But it's affecting us right here where we live, and it's affecting us now. It's not something in the future, it's a current issue. Donovan: Okay. So just to take us back, we've clearly established that there are two deserts within the park, the Colorado and the Mojave. But how exactly do you know which desert you're standing in while you're inside the park and where exactly should you look for that transition zone? Luckily, Dr. Barrows was able to provide us some key signs to look for. Cameron: Well, the Colorado Desert has its own set of species, but there's some overlap. One of the primary species that goes both ways is the creosote bush, and turns out from our analyses, the creosote bush is probably one of the most resilient species to climate change. They don't seem to care all that much. They don't look all that great by the end of summer, but as soon as it rains, they pop right back again. So, that's good news. With regard to that, the Colorado Desert, the lower desert, some of the characteristic species are palm oases. So, the palm Oases within the park are part of the Colorado Desert. Another species that's characteristic of both the Colorado Desert and the Sonoran Desert are ocotillos. As you are transitioning into the Mojave Desert, you start picking up more yuccas, and especially the Joshua Trees. Ultimately at the higher elevations, you're picking up pinions and junipers as well. Donovan: Plants are great indicators to use when identifying what desert you might be standing in. Now, of course, we've already started to establish that these transition zones might not be so clean-cut. Oases are typically found in the Colorado Desert, but can also be found in the lower elevations around the city of Twentynine Palms, which traditionally identifies as the Mojave Desert. This is a great reminder on how nature doesn't always identify with the lines that we draw on maps. Cameron: Well, one of the quotes that I sometimes use is basically that the only thing constant about our earth is change and it's been changing for hundreds of millions and billions of years. On a geologic time scale, if you think about, when the first Native Americans, the indigenous people came to this region, which is anything from 15,000 to 20,000 years ago, somewhere in that range, it was a completely different place. It was much, much wetter, and much, much cooler during that period. There were camels, there were horses, there were… native horses, not introduced horses. There were mastodons and mammoths and giant ground sloths and a very, very different landscape than we see today. Junipers and the pines would've been more extensive. More oaks. Species would've made living in this region much easier for those first inhabitants that came here, but that was at the end of the last glacial, maximum of the Pleistocene. So, whether or not we're still in the Pleistocene or not, we'll have to wait another 20 or 30,000 years to see whether or not we shift back into another glacial period. But currently we're in an interglacial period, which is a drier, warmer period, and so as a result of that dramatic climate change, of course we don't have wild camels. We don't have native wild horses, we don't have mastodons, we don't have any of those mega type species that used to occur here; and what has replaced them with are things that have moved up from the south, from the tropics. Cactus, which they are an iconic species of deserts plants, actually their origin is in the tropics. If you go to Costa Rica or if you go to the islands in the Caribbean, cactus grew all over the place. Cactus are very happy in hot places, but they're also not too unhappy about being in a wet place. Except for, and this is the caveat, is that where they primarily occur in the tropics is as epiphytes at the tops of trees. So, capturing a fair amount of water as it's falling through the trees, but there's no soil in the trees, so their roots dry out really quickly afterwards. So that adaptation of dealing with both wet and dry, adapted them to living in a desert. Ian: Considering what we know about how desert plants have adapted to these extremely harsh and various environments, we wanted to know how those landscapes are changing in the present. So, we asked Dr. Barrows, what are some factors as to why we are seeing such drastic shifts in desert plants as compared to the past. Cameron: There's two real driving factors: climate change being one of them and the other one really is invasive species. Joshua Trees are in an interesting position in that they are in a pattern of air movement that comes from Los Angeles, and that Los Angeles air continues up to this point. This is one of the potentially good things about people adapting to climate change, if we reduced our impact on our use of cars in trucks and trains and things that burn fossil fuels. That air pattern that's coming from Los Angeles will be cleaner. Right now, it's really dirty. It's filled with nitric oxides of various chemical formulas and those nitrous oxides fall into Joshua Tree as well as much of the Mojave Desert. When they fall, if you were a farmer, you're thinking, how do I increase my crop yields? Well, let's add nitrogen to the soil. Those nitrous oxides are adding nitrogen to the soil. What's wrong is that Joshua Trees don't care about it and neither do bushes or junipers or pinions. They don't respond to that extra nitrogen at all, but what does respond to nitrogen is invasive species. Invasive grasses, invasive mustards, things like that, have moved in. On its face value, it’s really bad, but what makes it much worse is that those species carry fire. Fire has become, in recent decades, a component of the Mojave Desert, which it never used to. There was never enough fuel to allow a fire to move from one Joshua tree in the next Joshua tree or one creosote bush to the next creosote bush. Now those spaces between the trees and shrubs are filled with invasive grasses or invasive mustards, various types, and as a result of that, fires carry across the desert. Some of the listeners might be aware that Cima Dome burned just this past summer, and I think it was a lightning strike, which is a natural event, but it would've hit only one or two Joshua trees and that would've been the end of it, but because of the invasive grasses and other plants, the fire moved in and burned thousands, and thousands of acres, killing most Joshua trees in its path. Donovan: The Cima dome fire that Dr. Barrows is referring to was a fire that burned about 44 thousand acres of Joshua trees in and around the Mojave National Preserve. Around August of 2020, over one million Joshua trees were burned in this fire. I got a chance to follow up with Drew, a Mojave National Preserve botanist, and he said that the dome fire was started by multiple dry lightning strikes. It was the same storm system that started much of the record breaking wildfires that we saw during 2020. Invasive grasses were just one factor that led to the size of this fire. Also, it was during an extended drought period and a heat wave this same week that Death Valley hit 130 degrees fahrenheit for the first time. Winds were strong and erratic contributing to unpredictable fire behavior. The science is clear that invasive grasses can be an issue when it comes to wildfires, but luckily, Dr. Barrow's research can assist with this issue. Cameron: What my science is supposed to do is inform management and help them make decisions. Most of our land managers, whether it's the Park Service or the Bureau of Land Management or local nonprofits, land management is an expensive, under undertaking, and there's not a lot of extra money for that. The science that we do is try to inform the managers as to what the risk is if you don't do anything about this invasive species. And so, what is the impact of that species on the environment? Is it indirect competition with native species? In some cases, that's true. Is it changing the ecosystem so that the native species don't reproduce or they can't exist there anymore? Or is it facilitating fire? Or is it doing none of the above and, and just ignore it because the effort to get rid of it would not be worth the benefit you get from it. Deserts are defined by being dry and for the most part, warm or pretty hot. There are some deserts that are cold deserts, but they are still dry. The main factor that defines a desert is how much rainfall it gets. Temperature impacts that because the warmer it gets, the less of that rainfall actually gets to the plants. It evaporates away. In the Colorado Desert, which is a warmer desert, when we do get rainfall, the rain, a certain percentage of that evaporates and never gets to the plants, never gets to the a…

    Full show notes at the publisher

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