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    Outdoor

    The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

    Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you’re a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you’ll learn something new from these conversations.

    Advertise

    Copyright: © Copyright The TrainingBeta Podcast 2018

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    Latest Episodes:
    Training Q&A Session #2 Apr 27, 2015
    Show notes

    This is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are:

    • Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer
    • Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber
    • Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber

    Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!

    TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard Mar 30, 2015
    Show notes

    Direct Download: LINKDate: March 30th, 2015

    About Mike Doyle

    Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring.

    He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent numerous 5.14's, all while ambitiously pursuing a career he loves.

    What we talked about:
    • How he efficiently trained for Necessary Evil
    • How his training has evolved over the years
    • The creative ways he manages to work so many hours AND climb so much outside
    • His thoughts on diet and body weight, and how he lost weight for Necessary Evil
    Related Links
    • Mike Doyle's website: www.mikedoyle.ca
    • Video about Mike Doyle's persistence on Necessary Evil
    Support The Podcast
    • Check out the Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities.
    • Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training Feb 18, 2015
    Show notes

    I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

    About Adam Ondra

    He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.

    He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

    As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

    And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

    Here's what we talked about:
    • How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
    • How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
    • How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
    • The prospect of climbing 5.15d
    • His thoughts on diet and body weight
    Related Links
    • Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
    Support The Podcast
    • Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
    • Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Photo

    Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism Feb 10, 2015
    Show notes

    I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff.

    About Steph Davis

    I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me.

    Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She is the only woman to have free solo climbed a 5.11 climb, the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Long's Peak in Colorado, and the first woman to summit Torre Egger.

    Here's what we talked about:

    • How she trained for her free solo ascents on the Diamond
    • How she trained for her alpine ascents in Patagonia
    • How she trains for Rifle
    • Whether or not FFA's really matter
    • Her vegan diet
    Related Links
    • Steph Davis site at www.highinfatuation.com
    Support The Podcast
    • Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
    • Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
    Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3 Feb 05, 2015
    Show notes

    This is a recording of the free Q&A webinar that we hosted on 2-2-15. Chris and Seth answered training questions from anyone who called. Questions are focused on general training and specific questions about the training programs offered on TrainingBeta.

    TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects Jan 07, 2015
    Show notes

    It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular basis.

    About Heather

    Alright, so this episode is with my friend, Heather Weidner (nee Robinson), who is a badass sport and trad climber, having redpointed Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle this summer and Must'a Been High (5.13c R) in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado soon after.

    She and her husband, Chris Weidner, are full time climbers living the dream, although Heather was a veterinarian for about 5 years before that. When I think of Heather, I think of a very sweet woman with a bullish determination to climb her projects. I also think of kneebarring, since she's a pro at it.

    Here's what we talked about:

    • Her lack of fear and how that helps her climbing
    • Whether kneebarring is "cheating"
    • How her vegetarian diet affects her climbing
    • Her longest (time) project and how she kept trying even when she felt defeated
    • How she makes it as a full time climber
    Related Links
    • Heather's site at www.heatherclimbs.com
    • Heather's article for TrainingBeta, "Headstrong"
    Support The Podcast
    • Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
    • Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment Nov 01, 2014
    Show notes About Dr. Jared Vagy

    I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries.

    He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with climbers all over the world. He's written a book just for us on how to prevent and treat common climber injuries, and he's got a lot more info for us up his sleeve. He's super passionate about educating us, and I'm so happy I found him!

    He's dissected our contorted movements and figured out how we can prevent finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries.

    What We Talked About
    • Finger injuries
    • Elbow injuries
    • Shoulder injuries (my favorite!)
    • What we're doing wrong on the wall to cause these injuries
    • How to properly warm up before climbing
    Related Links
    • Jared's site at www.theclimbingdoctor.com
    • Jared's book, The Ultimate Climber
    Support The Podcast
    • Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities!
    • Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page.
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It Oct 22, 2014
    Show notes About Hans Florine

    This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes:

    Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an American rock climber, who together withAlex Honnold holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), set on June 17, 2012[6] which broke the previous record of 2:36.45 set by Dean Potter and Sean Leary. Hans also previously held the same record with Yuji Hirayama for El Capitan in 2:37:05 (2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds), set on October 12, 2008.[2] This broke their record of 2:43:33 set on July 2, 2008, which had broken the record that was set by the German "Huberbuam",Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber.[7] The two brothers climbed The Nose on October 8, 2007 in 2:45:45, breaking Hans' and Yuji's prior speed record.[8] El Capitan is traditionally climbed in three to five days.[9]The Nose route is 2,900 ft long (880 m) and features over 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed climbing.[9] Florine thus climbed The Nose at roughly 6 minutes per pitch. On July 30, 2005, Florine also completed a solo ascent of The Nose in just 11 hours and 41 minutes.[10] Solo ascents are characterized by climbing by yourself and require one person to do all the work.

    Pretty impressive, huh? I wanted to know how he trained for such crazy shenanigans, and he kindly gave his time for an interview.

    What We Talked About
    • His seriously amazing feats as a Yosemite and competition speed climber
    • His badass training sessions in the gym before work
    • How he trains for big walls and speed climbing
    • What he eats before and during big wall speed ascents
    • Whether or not he'll attempt another speed record on the Nose
    • A lot more
    Related Links
    • Hans's site at www.hansflorine.com
    • Hans on Wikipedia (he's that good)
    • Hans with Yuji Hirayama on a previous record speed ascent of the Nose (VIDEO)
    Support The Podcast
    • This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Photo

    Jim Thornburg

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight Sep 22, 2014
    Show notes About Alli Rainey

    Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve.

    Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;)

    What We Talked About
    • The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger
    • How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses
    • Diet and body weight's role in sending hard
    • What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall
    • A lot more
    Related Links
    • Alli's site at www.allirainey.com
    • Alli on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alliraineyclimbing
    • Alli working the 14a at Ten Sleep, Galactic Emperor (VIDEO)
    Support The Podcast
    • This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
    TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send Aug 26, 2014
    Show notes About Dan Mirsky

    Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda's last year. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclopedic beta on the entire crag from the ground. He chucked a couple laps on Golden (14b) that day right after sending Route of All Evil (14a) in the Virgin River Gorge that morning.

    Mirsky is PSYCHED to climb and psyched to see others succeed. He's a bright-eyed, happy, almost boyish guy with a sneaky sense of humor and a willingness to get a little crazy with friends. He knows everything about the places he climbs because he's obsessed with all things climbing. He's sent 30+ 5.14's up to 5.14c, having taken down Carry the Fire (14c), 50 Words for Pump (14b), Bad Girls Club (14c), Lungfish (14b), and lots of other hard stuff, including an FA of Solid Gold (14c), the direct line to Golden (read his "The Day I Sent Solid Gold" from EveningSends.com).

    He lives part time on the road and part time at his house in Carbondale. He dates my good friend and fellow TrainingBeta worker bee, Katy Dannenberg (you may have noticed her posting a bunch of awesome stuff on our Facebook page recently?), and together they are the hardest training couple I've ever known. If they're not climbing, they're doing CrossFit workouts outside of the Airstream, running half marathons, doing yoga, or hangboarding on their portable A-frame hangboard.

    So how does Dan Mirsky do it? He doesn't even live in a city with a climbing gym and yet he's consistently killing it. He'll tell you all about it in the interview.

    What We Talked About
    • How he financially manages to live on the road for most of the year
    • How he stays strong on long trips to the Red or other areas
    • What he thinks doing cardio has done for his climbing
    • How he stays super ripped and lean without starving himself (he eats - I've seen it myself)
    • The wise advice he gave me about projecting
    Related Links
    • A more complete bio on Dan Mirsky on Millet.com, one of his sponsors.
    • His account of his FA of Solid Gold (14c) on Evening Sends
    Support The Podcast
    • This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
    • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
    Listen and Review on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
    • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
    Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings

    Thanks for listening!
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