The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Latest Episodes:

TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro Jul 11, 2016

Show notes

Date: July 11th, 2016

About Joe Kinder

This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He's well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag.

Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he's changing his overall training because of it.

About Our Talk

In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more.

BD bootcamp results
Route development
Moonboard training
Making a living as a sponsored athlete
Diet and alcohol
Goals of 5.15

Joe Kinder Links

Joe's experience with the BD Bootcamp (Video)
Joe sending Maquina Muerte in Spain, 5.14d (Video)
Joe in 30 Days in Norway (Video)
Joe on Instagram
Joe on Facebook

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Transcript

Coming soon!

Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget Jun 30, 2016

Show notes

Date: June 23rd, 2016

Training for Climbing on A Time Budget

This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus on as opposed to route climbers, and how you can train at home or in the gym in less than an hour 2 or 3 times a week.

More Details about The Talk

Quickie power endurance drills
When to do circuit training
Don't forget about abs!
Climbing should be the focus

Freebie Home Workout

This workout is the same one I posted on the last Ask Kris episode about efficient home workouts, but I figured it's pertinent to this episode, too. So if you didn't do it last time, go get it this time!

This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this...

Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes)

Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps

Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps

Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability)

Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary.

Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6

Enjoy!

Want Help With Your Training?

Each of these training programs contains workouts that are 2 hours or less in duration 3 days per week. We tried to cater to those people who don't have all day to train. They'll get you stronger and more fit without breaking your soul ;)

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Transcript

Coming soon!

TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers Jun 28, 2016

Show notes

About Joshua Rucci

This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls.

He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber.

Joshua's progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family.

Certifications and Degrees

Joshua's certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior.

Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBeta

Joshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta.

Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes.

About Our Talk

In this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more...

Climbers generally lack regimented training, as opposed to other sports
Doing more isn't necessarily better
How long it takes to see results
Why strength training is so important in every sport
Will you bulk up if you lift?
Kettlebell workout for you
Climbing drills for different levels of climbers
Should you train to failure or is that dumb?

Joshua Rucci Links

Joshua at University of Georgia - Athens (bio)
Joshua climbing (vimeo)

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing Jun 23, 2016

Show notes

Efficient Home Training for Climbing

This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home.

He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home.

More Details about The Talk

How to train with only rings and a few weights
How to train with a home wall
The optimal home set-up
Several workouts you can do at home

Freebie Home Workout

Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes)

Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps

Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps

Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability)

Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary.

Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6

Enjoy!

Want Help With Your Training?

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters.

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Shoulder Injuries Jun 21, 2016

Show notes

About Dr. Tom Hackett

This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment of sports-related injuries.

Before he was a surgeon, he worked as a mountaineer and a climbing guide, so he knows a lot about what climbers actually do with their bodies, unlike many other orthopedic docs.

In our experiences with him, he's taken our climbing goals into strong consideration when deciding how to treat our shoulders, making sure to give us the best chances of fully recovering as possible.

He uses what seem to be the most advanced and specialized techniques in arthroscopic surgery, and he discusses the fact that some other docs are falling behind in that regard.

More About Our Talk

The most common injuries in climbers, and how to treat them
How to find the best surgeon for your shoulder
The differences between his techniques and the old ways
The different surgeries for different injuries
Recovery times and what to expect
What you really can and can't tell from an MRI
Alternative treatments for shoulder injuries

Dr. Tom Hackett Links

Dr. Hackett's website: www.doctorhackett.com
Dr. Hackett on "The Dr.'s" as one the "Most Beautiful Male Doctors in America" (Video)
Dr. Hackett on the U.S. Snowboarding team (article)

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds Jun 16, 2016

Show notes

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold

This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity.

In terms of lactic acid, we talk about:

how you can increase your lactic acid threshold
how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do
what to do with that information
and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing

One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor.

Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about:

how to train with a heart rate monitor
at what level of your max heart rate you should be training
what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max
how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining

This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself...

Want Help With Your Training?

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters.

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?) Jun 14, 2016

Show notes

About Lynn Hill

This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.

These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport.

More About Our Talk

How she trained for the Nose and other climbs
The significance of FFA's
Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps
Her weight lifting records
How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn
Motherhood and how it changed her climbing

Lynn Hill Links

Lynn's website: www.lynnhillclimbing.com
Lynn's Instagram: @_linacolina_
Lynn on David Letterman (Video)
Lynn on the Nose (Video)

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining? Jun 09, 2016

Show notes

Are You Overtraining?

This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need.

Here's what we talked about:

What overtraining looks like
How long you should feel tired after starting a training program
The emotional effects of training and overtraining
Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining

Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them

All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and overtrain. He knows all too well that not resting enough creates injuries, exhaustion, and burnout.

In each 6-week cycle, you actually do 5 weeks of training and 1 week of active resting (meaning, you don't take the entire week off if you don't want to - you just don't train hard during that time).

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.

More about Kris
Train with Kris one-on-one or online
Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta
Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training Jun 07, 2016

Show notes

About Ryan Vachon

This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend warrior, and he puts in long hours of training most weeks in order to stay super fit.

Ryan is a Rab athlete, and we recently teamed up with Rab to get you a 20% discount on their stuff. Get the discount here.

More About Our Talk

What is mixed climbing and where do we draw the line between mixed and sport?
Work/life balance
His intense 30-minute sessions
Exactly how he trains
How his vegetarian diet affects his climbing
Why the M Scale is "weird"

Ryan Vachon Links

Ryan's work website: earth-initiatives.org
Ryan's Instagram: @nerd_in_nature
A recap of Ouray with footage of Ryan winning this year (Video)

Training Programs for You

Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities.
Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing May 26, 2016

Show notes

Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing

This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain more of it.

Here's what we talked about:

What fitness actually is
Specific workouts you should do to train fitness
How I should train for my long-ass route project
Who needs fitness?
How a workout that has no climbing in it can improve your climbing fitness

Train Your Fitness with Kris's Programs

All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on overall fitness. He's a big advocate for creating great all-around athletes because he believes that strong people make strong climbers.

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.

More about Kris
Train with Kris one-on-one or online
Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta
Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!

Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Our TOPPODCAST Picks

Follow Us

Stay Connected

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Related Podcasts

Links

Stay Connected