The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick

Darrick Doerner Nov 05, 2024

Darrick Doerner is a big-wave surfer, tow-surfing pioneer, Hollywood stuntman, and former North Shore lifeguard. He grew up surfing in the LA area in the 1960s and ’70s, moved to Hawaii his senior year of high school, and discovered himself joyous and at peace in heavy water. Hungry for waves too big to catch manually, Doerner and his pals Laird Hamilton and Buzzy Kerbox started experimenting with personal watercraft assists in the early 1990s. Not long after, they began towing into Peahi, aka Jaws. In Hollywood, Doerner stunt-doubled for Bodhi, Patrick Swayze’s character, in 1991’s Point Break, and appeared as a stunt surfer in the 2002 James Bond film Die Another Day. In this episode of Soundings, Doerner and Jamie Brisick talk about the allure of Sunset Beach, his memorable ride at Waimea on Super Bowl Sunday in 1988, friendship, the importance of being attuned to your environment, drawing lines on giant waves, and working with Eddie Aikau.

Scott Hulet Oct 15, 2024

A writer and editor from San Diego, California, Scott’s known throughout the surf sphere for his work with The Surfer’s Journal, which he edited from 1999 to 2019, and where he remains as its creative director. Hulet was drawn to words from a young age. At six, Hulet was experimenting with making his own hardbound, nail-stapled books. As a college student, Hulet became well-acquainted with the world of print publications, serving as editor for student-led literary journals and writing for magazines like Revolt In Style and Kema. In the early 1990s, before working at TSJ, he was the editor for Longboard Quarterly. He’s recently released a new book, Flow Violento, a collection of more than 30 years of his published works, focused on his lifetime spent traveling, surfing, and fishing throughout Latin America. In this episode of Soundings, Hulet talks with Jamie Brisick about lessons learned from Craig Stecyk, the virtues of reading and writing, getting to know his heroes, facing adversity, health scares, his Baja roots, and his new book.

Ryan Burch Sep 24, 2024

Hailing from Encinitas, California, Ryan Burch is a goofyfoot, a shaper, a husband, a new father, a free surfer, and a free thinker. His approach to wave-riding might be described as experimental, both in the lines he draws and the surfcraft that he rides—everything from asyms to gliders to old-school twin-keeled fishes to sawed-off chunks of raw foam. Burch shaped his first board at age 20, loved it, shaped more, and soon became a leading figure in the backyard, DIY board building scene. He’s appeared in a number of surf films, among them 2010’s Stoked and Broke and 2019’s Self Discovery for Social Survival. His part in 2015’s Psychic Migrations earned him a “Best Performance” nomination in the Surfer Poll Awards. In this episode of Soundings, Burch sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the virtues of working with your hands, receiving feedback from the ocean, getting comfortable in hollow surf, G-Land, fatherhood, living with intention, entrepreneurship, and his influences.

Robert Trujillo Sep 03, 2024

Robert Trujillo grew up on the westside of Los Angeles, where he found music, skateboarding, and surfing at a young age. He first rose to prominence as the bassist for Suicidal Tendencies, which he played in from 1989 to 1995. He was a member of Ozzy Osbourne’s band for a number of years starting in the late ’90s. Since 2003, he’s been the bassist for Metallica. He played—and still plays—with the funk metal supergroup Infectious Grooves. A goofyfoot, he gets in the water regularly, weaving wave riding into his heavy touring schedule. In this episode of Soundings, Trujillo talks with Jamie Brisick about the moment his life as a musician changed forever, the ebbs and flows of a passion-driven career, the importance of establishing a work ethic, Metallica world tours, Ozzy Osbourne, surfing, finding inspiration, playing in front of massive crowds, and staying grounded.

Carissa Moore Aug 13, 2024

Five-time world champion Carissa Moore started surfing at age 5 with her dad in the hallowed waters of Waikiki. As an amateur, she won 11 national titles. In 2008, at the age of 16, Moore became the youngest winner of the Triple Crown of Surfing. She qualified for the WCT in 2010, and won world titles in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019, and 2021, with dozens of event wins along the way. She was the first-ever winner of the Olympic Gold Medal in women’s shortboard surfing. More recently, Moore has announced that she will be walking away from competition to devote time to family, making films, and investing energy into her charitable foundation, Moore Aloha. In this episode of Soundings, Moore talks with Jamie Brisick about her decision to step away from the tour, representing Hawaii, friendship, finding community, her proudest moments, the values (and dangers) of mimicry, and overcoming self-doubt.

Mark Cunningham Jul 23, 2024

Mark Cunningham, aka The Human Fish, is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-’70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline’s barrel. Through the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Cunningham won nearly every bodysurfing event he entered. But, as Cunningham would be the first to tell you, bodysurfing is not about winning or losing. Cunningham retired from lifeguarding in 2005, at age 49. In recent years, he’s become an obsessive reefcomber, finding fins, sunglasses, watches, and other valuables on the ocean floor. He’s also become a visual artist, using his findings in sculptures and assemblages. In this episode of Soundings, Cunningham talks with Jamie Brisick about the multifarious duties of a lifeguard, scanning the impact zone, brushes with fate at Backdoor, playing in the shorebreak, the joys of retirement, Puerto Escondido, and the virtue of leading a simple life.

William Finnegan Apr 02, 2024

Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay “Playing Doc’s Games” in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and “Doc” Renneker’s pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 2015 memoir, Barbarian Days, which documented his surfing life, won the Pulitzer Prize. Beyond the surf, Finnegan has devoted much of his career to conflict reporting in regions ranging from Mexico to parts of Asia. In this episode, Finnegan talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the modern marriage of surfing and intellectualism, the importance of asking questions, writing, curiosity, outing himself as a surfer in the context of his career, Bali’s dystopian reality, the dissemination of surf culture, and how his experience as a teacher in South Africa during apartheid shaped him as a writer.

Shane Dorian Mar 26, 2024

A core member of the Momentum Generation and an 11-year veteran of the world tour, Shane Dorian is best known for his big-wave accomplishments over the past 20 years. Born and raised on the Big Island of Hawaii, Dorian received his big-wave education under Brock Little, Todd Chesser, and others after relocating to the North Shore as a teenager. Today, with multiple XXL Awards under his belt and a bag full of some of the most defining rides in history, Dorian has proven a trailblazer in the big-wave realm, helping to consistently redefine what’s possible via one’s own paddle power. In this episode, Dorian sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about swell tracking, risk assessment, the surfing time warp, decision making in critical moments, family, bowhunting, overcoming self-doubt, and the virtue of patience.

Jaleesa Vincent Mar 19, 2024

Hailing from the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, freesurfer Jaleesa Vincent leads a life deeply immersed in explorative practices of self-expression and connection with nature. If she isn’t hunting for waves, she’s playing music, painting, cooking, writing poetry, and experimenting with taxidermy. Over the past few years, her output has helped define a new generation of paradigmatic Renaissance surfers in Australia through unbending fidelity to play, creativity, and staying true to oneself—in the water and out of it. In this episode, Vincent talks with show host Jamie Brisick about her robust creative sentiment, the importance of losing yourself in the things you love, rediscovering her inner child, tap dancing, her recent injury, rustic living, Indonesia, touring with her band, and cultivating her sense of what it means to be a woman.

Nate Tyler Mar 12, 2024

Born and raised in Central California, Nate Tyler eschewed the world of competitive surfing in favor of pursuing the path less trodden as a teenager, building a free surfing career defined by a steadfast dedication to filming, traveling, and artistic exploration. His profile rose through the aughts and 2010’s, due in no small part to his performances in some of the most cult-classic surf films of the era: Creepy Fingers (2006), BS! (2009), Year Zero (2011), Strange Rumblings in Shangri La (2014), and Psychic Migrations (2015), among others. Alongside surfing, Tyler has cultivated an art practice, producing kinetic sculptures that interrogate the relationship between materiality and movement. In this episode, Tyler sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about life and love off-the-grid, the California crowd factor, surfing in the elements, the Central Coast, how fatherhood has changed him, and the importance of stepping away from the world you know.

Jack McCoy Mar 05, 2024

A preeminent figure in surf filmmaking, Jack McCoy started surfing when his family moved from Los Angeles to Hawaii in 1954. In the 1970s, he began experimenting with film and photography and, in 1976, released his first film, Tubular Swells, produced and directed with Australian photographer Dick Hoole. What followed was a four-decade run filming, directing, and producing classics of the surf genre—including Storm Riders (1982), Kong’s Island (1983), Bunyip Dreaming (1990), The Green Iguana (1992), Sabotaj (1998), The Occumentary (1999), Blue Horizon (2004), Free as a Dog (2006), and A Deeper Shade of Blue (2012)—defined via McCoy’s unparalleled water cinematography. In this episode, host Jamie Brisick talks to McCoy about the evolution of surf filmmaking, capturing emotion, mindsurfing his way through hepatitis, traveling, music, and working with a Beatle.

Jack and Mark Occhilupo are hitting the east coast of Australia this May to celebrate the 25th anniversaries of The Occumentary and Occy’s 1999 World Title. Jack has remastered the film and it’ll be shown on the big screen for the first time ever. You can purchase tickets at jackmccoy.com.

Darryl “Flea” Virostko Feb 27, 2024

A three-time Maverick’s champion and a central figure in Santa Cruz’s explosion onto surfing’s main stage in the late ’90s and early ’00s, Darryl Virostko learned to ride big, heavy surf as a kid at Steamer Lane. His introduction to Maverick’s, the wave that defined his career, came when it was still considered a myth in surfing circles. His fast success and notoriety within surfing, and the big-wave community especially, engendered a degree of risk-taking, adrenaline-chasing behavior that eventually pushed Virostko into addiction. Clean since 2008, Virostko is now an advocate for the sober community, providing support for people with addiction through his rehabilitation program, FleaHab. In this episode, show host Jamie Brisick travels to Virostko’s home in Santa Cruz to talk about how Maverick’s changed the big-wave landscape, the power of commitment, lessons learned from his youth, getting clean, death and love, and surfing with range.

Aska Matsumiya Feb 20, 2024

Born in Japan to a mother with a profound passion for classical music and a father whose singing and guitar resounded throughout her early childhood, Aska Matsumiya was playing music before she could talk. Allured by her family’s player piano as a child, she became a proficient classical pianist by age 3. But after a move to Orange County, California, at 12, Matsuyima was introduced to the haywire world of punk rock. Matsumiya played in punk bands until her early twenties, when she began experimenting with writing her own songs and scoring clips for friends in the fashion industry. Since then, she’s composed over 20 films and television soundtracks for directors like Julia Hart and Spike Jonze, networks like HBO, major brands like Audi, as well as collaborated with prolific composers such as Ryuichi Sakamoto. In this episode, Matsumiya and show host Jamie Brisick discuss her creative process, composing for film and television versus the self, her proudest pieces, working with others, her musical inspirations, and the similarities between surfing and making music.

Gordon “Grubby” Clark Feb 13, 2024

The mastermind behind large-scale production of the surfboard blank, Gordon “Grubby” Clark’s pioneering of polyurethane foam in constructing the modern surfboard enabled the progression of surfing as a culture. Enthralled by materials from a young age, Clark received a combined degree in math and physics from Pomona College before working as a glasser at Hobie Surfboards and as an apprentice to Tom Blake, inventor of the surfboard fin, while splitting time between Hawaii and California. When demand for foam boards proliferated across Southern California in the late 1950s, Clark was quick to employ his background toward industrializing and streamlining the production of polyurethane foam blanks, becoming the defining blank maker from the early ’60s until Clark Foam’s sudden and shocking closure in 2005. Since then, “Grubby” has lived and worked on a sprawling cattle ranch in Oregon, which is where host Jamie Brisick sat down and talked with Clark about the adaptation of modern surfboard design, the intricacies of foam and fiberglass, the value of an education in science, the emergence of computer programming, the shortboard revolution, and why he closed shop.

Cliff Kapono Feb 06, 2024

A molecular scientist with a PhD in marine conservation and sustainability from UC San Diego, Cliff Kapono devotes himself to putting his two greatest passions—science and surfing—into productive conversation. For Kapono, a Native Hawaiian from the Big Island, surfing necessitates meaningful, intimate care for one’s environment and is a practice deeply embedded in the familial and social histories that informed his upbringing. Kapono currently serves as an ambassador for the Save the Waves Coalition, a nonprofit that protects surf ecosystems globally, and his environmental activism and study range from microbiome dynamics to coral health. In this episode, Kapono talks with show host Jamie Brisick about surfing as a means of combating trauma, finding one’s identity, sublime connection, high-performance surf zones, commodification of the sacred, the nuances of inclusivity, and growing up in Hawaii.

Steve Olson Jan 30, 2024

Steve Olson honed his skateboarding expertise sneaking into swimming pools across Southern California while growing up in the 1970s. His skating was wedded to a surf-centric childhood at a time when the crossover between the two was at its height. Olson earned a sponsorship by Santa Cruz Skateboards in 1979 and quickly became notorious for introducing a punk rock aesthetic and cool defiance to the skate scene. He’s also lived outside of surf-skate norms as an actor, artist, musician, and father, blending all those interests into a singular personality. In this episode, Olson sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about their first encounters, his contemporary art practice, the art of trespassing, the surf-skate connection, cat-and-mouse thrills, his greatest moments on a skateboard, extreme individualism, and the memories that have stuck with him.

Coco Ho Jan 23, 2024

From one of surfing’s most accomplished and recognizable families, Coco Ho was raised in the thick of the surf universe on the North Shore of Oahu. As a kid, she quickly gained notoriety as a high-performance surfer in her own right, winning multiple junior titles before eventually joining the Championship Tour while still a teenager, where she posted solid results and year-end rankings for over a decade. Since letting go of competition, she’s gone on to design women’s wear collections, put on twin-fin clinics, and started her female-centric board brand, while continuing to chase waves. In this episode, Ho and show host Jamie Brisick sit down to talk about her serendipitous thrust into competitive surfing, competing against her brother, friendship, winter on the North Shore, the inevitable overlap between passion and selfishness, functionality, confidence, and her biggest inspirations.

Nat Young Jan 16, 2024

Dubbed “The Animal,” Nat Young has spent nearly 60 years as one of surfing’s most influential and esteemed figures. At the forefront of surfing’s stylistic evolution during the 1960s, Young’s victory at the 1966 World Championships in San Diego on his self-shaped “Magic Sam” helped cement Australia’s place as a budding progenitor of high-performance surfing. In the decades since, he’s maintained iconic status both in surf culture and in his native country, while writing numerous books, making films documenting the era of transformation he helped usher in, traveling the globe to both surfing and non-surfing locales, and continuing to surf—at a masterful level on all manner of craft—at the world-class points near his home. In this episode, Young talks with show host Jamie Brisick about his long and celebrated career, his biggest influences, and the translation of style across generations.

John John Florence Oct 08, 2023

Two-time world champion John John Florence looms large in surfing’s landscape. The eldest of three brothers, Florence grew up on the North Shore, where his mom took the family to the beach every day after school. He quickly made a name for himself as a kid, inching his way from bodyboarding the shorebreak to sitting center peak in the lineup at Pipe. His knowledge, talent, and skillset extends beyond the jersey—even beyond the surf, marked recently by his extended trips sailing the open ocean. A paradigm of the waterman’s tradition, Florence sits down with show host Jamie Brisick in this episode to talk about the trajectory of his career, staying wholesome, his biggest inspirations, self-optimization, his proudest moments, his complicated relationship to competition, family, synchronicity, and what the future holds.

Keala Kennelly Oct 01, 2023

Keala Kennelly grew up on Kauai in a geodesic dome built by her parents and began surfing at the age of five, a contemporary of the Irons brothers. Through the 1990s and early aughts, she was consistently ranked top ten on the World Tour and was the first woman to tow Teahupoo. She has since pursued successful careers in both acting and music. Kennelly’s life has been also defined by her pushing both physical and social limitations, from her fighting for women’s representation in heavy surf to her coming out during a time when that meant detrimental ramifications to her surfing career. In this episode, Kennelly talks with show host Jamie Brisick about being an early advocate for the LGBTQ+ surfing community, what it meant to be one of the few women in the lineup, how the attitudes have changed, losing her sponsors, giving up her spot on tour to work as an actress for David Milch, fighting for equal pay, and her invite to the Eddie, and her DJ career.

Brad Gerlach Sep 24, 2023

His father an olympic diver from Hungary, his mother a professional water skier, Brad Gerlach drew inspiration and drive from his parents’ athletic accomplishments and competitive mentality. He gripped professional surfing by the horns in 1985, when, as a rookie on the tour, he took out the tour’s major players to emerge victorious at that year’s Stubby’s Pro. Victories continued to color Gerlach’s early career, culminating in his finishing second in the world in 1991. He eventually grew disillusioned with competitive surfing and focused his efforts on big-wave surfing and chasing swells around the globe, where he saw more fruitful possibilities for personal growth, self-expression, and freedom. He’s also worked as an actor, teacher, founder, and coach. In this episode, Gerlach sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the road to realizing one’s dreams, unlocking potential, his proudest year, Wave Ki and his fitness philosophy, and fame.

Thomas Campbell Sep 17, 2023

Surfer, artist, and filmmaker Thomas Campbell’s unique perspective was informed by upbringing in Dana Point, California, his background as a skateboarder, and his experience serving as editor of Skateboarder magazine in the 1990s. His films The Seedling (1999), Sprout (2004), and The Present (2009), which function loosely as a trilogy, aestheticize surfing on the basis of its inherent capacity for playfulness, beauty, and style, standing in contrast to a society increasingly dominated by industry and consumption. Today, Campbell continues to work as a practicing filmmaker, artist, and producer, and is currently preparing for an upcoming solo exhibition at Utah Museum of Contemporary Art. In this episode, Campbell sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the divergent cultural possibilities between surfing and skating, the importance of having a strong work ethic, being driven by curiosity, the surfing industrial complex, and finding creativity in quietude.

Jock Sutherland Sep 10, 2023

One of the shortboard revolution’s seminal figures and a Pipeline pioneer, Jock Sutherland hails from a family of watermen: His mother swam the northern coast of the island of Molokai, a journey which she later detailed in her 1978 book, Paddling My Own. His father, a World War II navy officer, was a seasoned kayaker, fisherman, and surfer. Sutherland and his family moved to Hawaii from Long Beach, California in 1952, where he learned to surf on one of his father’s old planks. He began riding for Greg Noll as a teenager, and went on to place second at both the 1965 Makaha International Junior Surfing Championships and the Ocean Beach World Contest in 1966. In 1967, he won the Duke Invitational. In 1969, he won Surfer magazine’s Surfer of the Year award. In 1970, he left surfing to join the US Army at the height of Vietnam. At 74, surfing remains an integral part of Sutherland’s day to day life. In this episode of Soundings, Sutherland sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about turning points in surfing’s evolution, living with Jeff Hakman in Maui, the psychedelic resurgence, why he enlisted in the Army, being incarcerated for drug smuggling, myth-busting, and Waimea’s mechanics.

Michael Scott Moore Sep 03, 2023

Journalist and author Michael Scott Moore’s interest in piracy emerged from research conducted for his first novel, 2010’s Sweetness and Blood, which traces the history and spread of surfing from pre-colonial Hawaii to the rest of the world. His interest in the issue spiked when a trial of ten Somali pirates began in Germany in 2010—the first time in 400 years that pirates had appeared in a European court. As the trial ran on, Moore became set on researching piracy outside the confines of a western judicial system, leading him to travel to Somalia in 2011, funded by a crisis reporting grant provided by the Pulitzer Foundation. In January of 2012, he was taken hostage by a local pirate group in Galkayo, and remained captive for more than two years. In this episode, Moore talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the devolution of hope into fatalism, the importance of remembering trauma, stoicism, his memoir The Desert and the Sea (2018), and learning to live with what you have.

Takuji Masuda Aug 26, 2023

From Kamakura, Japan, Takuji Masuda has been a progenitor of surf culture since the 1980s. After traveling the surfing world and competing professionally with the Oxbow Longboard team, whose members included Joel Tudor, Duane Desoto, and others, Masuda pursued an interest in storytelling and cultural production. In the 1990s, through his reverence of surf and skate magazines and inspiration from the booming technological innovations of the era, he established his own magazine, Super X Media, published in English, Japanese, and French, influential as a cross-cultural hub for the surf-skate industry. Masuda more recently pursued filmmaking, including his documentary 2016 film Bunker77. In this episode, he sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about how surfing allows you to design a lifestyle that reflects who you are, the fashion industry, art and culture in Los Angeles, Pipeline, what drew him to the Bunker Spreckels story, and the joy of making friends through surfing.

Chris Malloy Aug 20, 2023

The oldest of three brothers, all with prodigious surfing talent, Chris Malloy grew up riding waves between Point Conception and Point Mugu, where he learned how to navigate its competitive lineups. By the early 1990s, he was a core member of the Momentum Generation. An injury, however, forced him into the role of observer and ignited a career in filmmaking, resulting in projects like Thicker Than Water (2000), The September Sessions (2002), A Brokedown Melody (2004), One Track Mind (2008), 180 Degrees South (2010), and The Fisherman’s Son (2015). He’s also done work for brands like Ford and Chevy and Dodge, currently serves as a Patagonia Ambassador, and operates a working ranch not far from where he grew up. In this episode, Malloy sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about his surf odyssey and the highlights of his career, California, the dichotomy between being a bubble-gum pro and traveling missionary, longevity, the importance of immersing oneself in one’s environment, Indo trips with Tom Carroll and Kelly Slater, and maintaining a sense of play in life.

Ashley Bickerton Aug 13, 2023

Born in Barbados and raised between Hawaii and California, the late Ashley Bickerton was a surfer, thinker, and artist whose mixed-media practice explored themes of identity and meaning, often critiquing consumerism, modernity, and social communication. He achieved early success in New York in the 1980s, alongside the likes of Jeff Koons and Peter Halley. In 1993, Bickerton abandoned the New York scene to return to surfing in Bali, where exercised a devotion to left-handed barrels. He also found in Bali expression for his work, through an increasingly characteristic use of bright colors. In the wake of what would come to be a fatal ALS diagnosis, Bickerton, prior to his passing in November 2022, spoke with show host Jamie Brisick about love, his recent New York exhibitions, the value of resolution, the evolution of the art world’s relationship to surfing, his art-making philosophy, and his biggest inspirations.

Selema Masekela Aug 06, 2023

When Selema Masekela, storyteller and son of South African jazz musician Hugh Masekela, moved to Carlsbad in high school, surfing became his doctrine. He spent years working odd-jobs to fund his habit until he began producing and commentating for Transworld Skate, before he found his calling as an action-sports commentator and storyteller, using his voice to broaden the scope of representation in sport on an international scale. In this episode, Masekela talks with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the crossover between surf, skate, and snowboard culture, recounting his exploration of Africa’s rich surfing history in his book AFROSURF, finding common ground through music and surfing alike, visiting South Africa after Mandela’s release in 1990, fitness, and his father’s legacy.

Lisa Andersen Jul 30, 2023

Lisa Andersen’s surf story began in the mid 1980s, at age fifteen, in her Florida hometown, where surfing—especially women’s surfing—was an underground endeavor. She soon ran away from home and wound up in Huntington Beach, California. By the turn of the decade, she was a professional surfer, turning heads with an elegant and aggressive style that stood out among the ranks of both genders, and changed the way women’s surfing was perceived. By the turn of the next, she was an icon: a four-time world champion and the face of a multi-million dollar brand and industry. In this episode, Andersen sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about self-worth, how motherhood has informed the way she carries herself as an athlete, marketability and it’s challenges, fear of the unknown, her role in the creation of an industry, reinventing surfing for herself, and what the future of women’s surfing holds.

Gerry Lopez Jul 23, 2023

Hawaiian stylist Gerry Lopez couldn’t make a takeoff during his first time surfing Pipe in 1963 at age 13. Today, at 74, he is still widely known as Mr. Pipeline, after having devoted most of his life to the infamous patch of reef. His approach is the expression of a life lived in pursuit of stillness, mindfulness, and regard for the natural world. Sixty years after that inaugural and fateful session at “The Pipeline,” Lopez sits down to talk with show host Jamie Brisick about the importance of having a meditative state of mind in and out of the water, the moment Pipeline clicked for him, why he doesn’t remember many of his waves, the relationship between yoga and surfing, and pathways to a higher consciousness.

Mick Fanning Mar 12, 2023

On stepping off the world tour, grief, finding solace in competitive surfing, and dealing with the aftermath of his near-shark attack at J-Bay.

Raymond Pettibon Mar 05, 2023

On purism and art making, punk, surf culture, misheard song lyrics, art world disenchantment, what keeps him going as an artist, and Black Flag.

Kathy Kohner aka “Gidget” Feb 26, 2023

On the Gidget enterprise, surfing Malibu in the 1950s, feminism, Malibu’s cachet among the Hollywood intelligentsia, the beach, and boys.

Mikey February Feb 19, 2023

The South African on Cape Town’s surf landscape, stepping away from competition, his film endeavors, and finding the freedom to be oneself.

Barton Lynch Feb 12, 2023

The ’88 world champ on anarchy, his childhood at Whale Beach, hitch-hiking, method-acting as an athlete, and being disciplined in the pursuit of your dreams.

Kassia Meador Feb 05, 2023

The California native on the Malibu parking lot scene, the Noosa wave that changed her life, harmonic resonance, walking away from her fifteen-year Roxy sponsorship, Malibu’s perfect wave, her surfing influences, and the lessons she learned from Donald Takayama.

Yvon Chouinard Jan 29, 2023

Outdoorsman, self-taught blacksmith, and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard never wanted to be a businessman. Rather, it was from his desire to innovate, change the status quo, and protect the environment that Patagonia was born. A craftsman to the core, Chouinard started applying industrial design principles to making outdoor-clothing as a blacksmith shortly after high school. His recent decision to transfer all of Patagonia’s voting stock to the Patagonia Purpose Trust and all of the company’s excess profits to the Holdfast Collective, a non-profit devoted to addressing climate change, sets a precedent for a new form of capitalism in America—one that considers quality and social impact over excess and consumption. Chouinard sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the value of problem solving using principles of industrial science, environmentalism, what inspired his game-changing business decision, invention versus innovation, what marketing means to him, and his heroes.

Joel Tudor Jan 22, 2023

For loggers, jiu-jitsu practitioners, and the international surfing community at large, the name Tudor rings loudly. The youngest surfer to ever win an ASP event, Joel Tudor has gone on to win world titles in 1998, 2004, and 2021. His foray into jiu-jitsu began during a hiatus from competitive surfing after the birth of his son, Tosh. He quickly progressed in the sport with a characteristically nimble athleticism and began winning competitions world-wide. A father, surfer, and fighter, the San Diego native sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the nature of performance in competitive surfing and jiu-jitsu alike, why he first gravitated toward logs instead of thrusters, making a name for himself in Hawaii, and his new surfboard factory.

Tom Curren Sep 25, 2022

The stylist on his foray into professional surfing, his proudest moments, commercialism, The Search, the California waves that shaped him, surfboard design, and his biggest inspirations.

Santa Barbara-native Tom Curren championed athleticism in surfing with his emergence on the ASP World Tour in 1983. Highly regarded for his humility and integrity, Curren has served as one of the most inspirational figures in the surfing community. On the 25th anniversary year of his film Searching for Tom Curren, Tom sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about his infamous double-pump bottom turn, music, and releasing himself from the confines of competition after winning back-to-back world titles.

Mason Ho Sep 18, 2022

The magnetic freesurfer on manifestation, picking reef out of his teeth, hanging with Tom Curren, surfing IQ and the tour education, music, transitioning from landing airs at his home break to surfing big waves, and growing up as part of the Ho surfing dynasty.

For Mason Ho, surfing has been a source of happiness since before he can remember. Son of professional surfer Michael Ho, brother to Coco, and nephew of World Champion Derek Ho, Mason has made a name for himself through his playful style, big personality, and seeing waves where others don’t. Ho sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the role music plays in his surfing, the virtue of patience, and striking the balance between fun, intention, and drive in order to be successful.

Dibi Fletcher Sep 11, 2022

The Fletcher family matriarch on what fuels her endlessly-inspired disposition, watching her sons pit themselves against nature, the virtues of being fearless, challenging social norms, and what excites her about technology.

Dibi Fletcher, the self-described progenitor of a “gene pool of cool,” has mastered living life to the fullest. An artist, writer, and entrepreneur, her vivacity, lust for freedom, and go for broke mentality has fueled both her own and her sons’ enduring desire to push the envelope. Dibi’s refusal to be constricted by societal norms has enabled her to engage with the world as a sphere of endless opportunity. In this episode of Soundings, Dibi talks with Jamie Brisick about the (d)evolution of surfing from countercultural lifestyle to mainstream sport, the influence of technology on Astrodeck and the metaverse, and the virtues of coming face to face with your own mortality.

Nathan Fletcher Sep 04, 2022

The charger on the dance between grief and greatness, the evolution of professional surfing, nonconformity, and his heaven-sent wave at Teahupoo.

In a family of world-renowned surfers, Nathan Fletcher was fated to push limits. His fire for big waves and airs have established him as a leading innovator within the sport. In this episode, he discusses the secrets to aging gracefully as a professional athlete, what drives him in heavy water, how motocross and skating have helped him assess both pain and risk, and the precarious tension between living in the moment and finding who you are.

Paul Theroux Aug 28, 2022

The bestselling author on self-discovery, escaping your roots, the multifarious ways in which we relate to the world around us, the surf-travel connection, freedom, and working in the service of your passion.

Paul Theroux is an established travel writer and novelist residing on the North Shore of Oahu. Author of numerous acclaimed works such as The Great Railway Bazaar and The Mosquito Coast, Theroux’s stories are imbued with the virtues of globetrotting and self-discovery. As a child, Theroux recalls fantasizing about the distant worlds he read about in books—destinations of possibility that contrasted to his tribalistic upbringing as one of seven children in a small New England town. Theroux joined the Peace Corps in 1963 and began teaching in Malawi. In this episode, he sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about what influenced his birth as a writer, the importance of grasping and respecting the nuances of your surroundings on land and at sea, and the relationship between place and self-discovery.

Brian Keaulana Aug 21, 2022

The waterman on “designing danger” as a Hollywood stuntman, eschewing labels, training for wipeouts, the aloha spirit, the visceral connection between fear and enlightenment, and his family’s Westside legacy.

Brian Keaulana is an esteemed lifesaver and surfer who has been an irreplaceable advocate for the importance of life-saving skills and ocean-education within the surfing community. Son of renowned surfer and lifesaver Buffalo Keaulana and brother of three-time ASP World Longboard champion Rusty, Brian has understood the importance of living in symbiosis with his surroundings from a young age, starting with getting in the water with his father at just three months old. In this episode, he discusses his family’s legacy, Hollywood, survival, and the power of storytelling as a vehicle for cross-cultural communication.

Paz Lenchantin Aug 14, 2022

The bassist for rock band Pixies on the surf-music connection, minimalism, the symbiosis between growth and tragedy, and finding forms of expression—on stage and in the water.

Argentine-American Paz Lenchantin is both a musician and a surfer. Throughout her music career, she’s held positions in popular alternative-rock bands such as A Perfect Circle, The Entrance Band, Silver Jews, and, most notably, Pixies. Hailing from a family of classical musicians, Lenchantin’s love for playing bass went hand in hand with a certain sense of rebelliousness. In this episode, she sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the relationship between music and surfing, and the role rhythm plays in structuring our relationships to the surrounding world.

Kelly Slater Aug 07, 2022

The most accomplished surfer ever on omens, the virtues of being vulnerable, his odyssey through fame, what the future looks like in midlife, and where to find inspiration after redefining the pinnacles of performance.

Kelly Slater’s competitive nature, sheer athleticism, and grace under pressure have won him 11 world titles. Now, at 50, he opens up to Jamie Brisick about the key ingredients for success and how his professional surfing career and life in the public eye have come to shape his understanding of happiness.

Laird Hamilton Apr 17, 2022

The definitive waterman talks with Jamie Brisick about his adrenaline-junkie beginnings, early heroes and influences, self-doubt and managing fear, the backstory of his Millennium Wave, and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Mike D Apr 10, 2022

The Beastie Boy talks with Jamie Brisick about how he found his way to surfing, life on the road, improvisation, and risk-taking in creative endeavors, the making of “Sabotage,” and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Dave Parmenter Apr 03, 2022

The surfer-shaper-writer-critic talks with Jamie Brisick about outrigger canoes, his relationship with the surf world, surfing “then” versus “now,” and how to keep wave riding interesting riding waves in mid-life and beyond. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Emi Erickson Mar 27, 2022

The big-wave charger talks with Jamie Brisick about the possibility of a big-wave gene, the joys of the single-fin gun, sexism in the lineup, what it’s like to sit on the boil at Waimea as a set swings wide, and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Dane Reynolds Mar 20, 2022

The electric freesurfer talks with Jamie Brisick about staying relevant in the changing media landscape, the benefits of irony and self-deprecation, his decision to leave the world tour, being recognized in the grocery store, and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Thad Ziolkowski Mar 13, 2022

The award-winning author talks with Jamie Brisick about surfing and addiction, the acceptance of substance use in the arts, the double-edged nature of the surfing life, the benefits of meditation, and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Tony Alva Mar 06, 2022

The Dogtowner talks with Jamie Brisick about the surf-skate connection, his mentor Bunker Spreckels, the power of the “I am going to crush you” spirit, knock-kneed style, and more.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Stephanie Gilmore Feb 27, 2022

The seven-time world champ talks with Jamie Brisick about maintaining competitive focus, making the jump from high-school straight to the world tour, Snapper Rocks etiquette, the virtues of smiling while dropping in, and more.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.

Steve Pezman Feb 23, 2022

Cofounder of The Surfer's Journal Steve Pezman talks with host Jamie Brisick about Soundings' titular origin, his half century of publishing, and the Journal's editorial values.

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