The Stitchdown Shoecast

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The Opening Ceremonies of the 2030th Shoelympic Games Jul 26, 2021

Show notes

Very special episode! The entire shoe world has been on the edge of its heels waiting for 2030th Shoelympics to kick off from Northampton, England, and the Shoecast has secured exclusive coverage of the opening ceremonies!
Esteemed bootcasters Tichblucho and Boot Robinshoe are all set up in Longwing Stadium to give you a first-hand view of the pageantry, the spectacle, and the SHOES, whose amazing stories will be told through an extremely thin veil of blatant unchecked corporatism. And of course to deliver a preview on which shoes and boots you should expect to see taking home hardware in events like Gaff-Standing, Mirror Shine, the Handwelting, the Steeplechasse, and plenty more.
[Producer's note: this is by far the weirdest Shoecast episode ever. Also maybe the best? So uhhh...be sure to tell us which.]
This episode was sponsored by Grant Stone, multiple-time gold medalist in the Value event, and a rising contender in so many more.

Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

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We'd better see you at Stitchdown Chicago 2026—the world's fair of shoes and boots and leather and more—Nov 6-7 at Artifact Events.
https://www.stitchdownexpo.com/
A website. We have one.
https://www.stitchdown.com/

Nick Horween on if Rare Shell Cordovan is Actually Rare, the CXL Lottery, and How to Tan Leather Responsibly Jul 16, 2021

Show notes

Nick Horween is a fifth-generation tanner at the eponymous Horween Leather Co., the Chicago powerhouse that creates Chromexcel, shell cordovan, and an endless array of some of the best boot leathers in the world. So he, uh, knows a lot about leather.
Nick stopped by the Shoecast to talk about Horween's fascinating history, how the tannery approaches being environmentally conscious in an industry that hasn't always been historically, what leather development looks like, the CXL lottery, whether Alden rare shell cordovan is ACTUALLY rare, and of course, the actual correct pronunciation of "chamois". And oh so much more.
Also Ticho says incendiary things about Chicago-style hot dogs and pizza that probably mean he can't ever visit the Windy City again. Oh Ticho...
This episode was sponsored by Standard & Strange, where you don't NEED an engineering degree to buy their engineer boots...but it helps.
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Shoegazing's Jesper Ingevaldsson on The Dangerous Fallacy of "Handmade" Shoes, The Coming Dress/Rugged Crossover, Who Needs Bespoke, and Plenty More Jul 12, 2021

Show notes

It's completely possible that Jesper Ingevaldsson knows more about shoes than anyone alive. Jesper IS Shoegazing, the seminal and just monumentally good blog covering quality footwear, mostly in the classic dress category. Over the past decade he's taken a keen journalistic eye and an endless sense of curiosity, and educated millions on shoe construction and finishing while also presenting a razor-sharp review of the industry at large.
The thing that I love most about Jesper is that he knows his stuff in a way few do in any field—and yet he's not someone who sees his personally preferred, dressier lane as the only correct course for a shoe-lover.
His appreciation of all quality footwear is beyond evident as we get into the crossover between his nerdy world and Stitchdown's: why aren't more people in his wintry home nation of Sweden wearing more rugged boots? (Well luckily they're starting to, actually...) What is and isn't truly "handmade," how should brands market their products honestly, and what do we need to understand as customers? Why are we all so obsessed with buying shoes and boots on sale when it threatens the very existence of the makers we so dearly love? Why do we buy four or five pairs of expensive footwear that don't get worn enough when one bespoke pair might be the thing that we really need?
These questions and plenty more we discuss—including the correct pronunciation of Swedish shoe store Skoaktiebolaget—are relevant to everyone who loves any kinds of welted shoes. And Jesper's episode is an absolute must-listen.
This episode was sponsored by Standard & Strange, where you don't NEED an engineering degree to buy their engineer boots...but it helps.
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

A Very Important Indonesian Bootmakers Update Episode May 25, 2021

Show notes

The very first episode of the Shoecast—and the most-listened-to episode of all time—was about Indonesian Bootmakers. To close out season 3, Ticho and Ben from Stitchdown knew it was high time to revisit that wonderful world of hand-welted boots and shoes.
Even in the year since that first episode, so much has changed in Indonesian bootmaking. New brands have emerged. Young makers have risen to crazy—and well deserved—levels of prominence. And the old guard continues to innovate, hone their craft, gain access to incredible new leathers, and just create a better and better product, seemingly every week.
So dive in to see where the scene is at today—we'll surely need another one of these episodes a year from now.
This episode is sponsored by Division Road Inc, the Seattle shop that creates some of the best Viberg, White’s, Wesco, and Tricker’s makeups you’ll find absolutely anywhere.
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Brett Viberg on Fall/Winter 2021, Pushing Viberg's Manufacturing Forward, and Vintage Inspiration May 18, 2021

Show notes

Brett Viberg is back once more on the Shoecast, to give us a detailed breakdown of Viberg's coming releases in the second half of 2021—there are a LOT, and we've got a full preview on Stitchdown.com.

Ticho and Ben from Stitchdown also get into how Brett is shepherding manufacturing and finishing quality forward, how Viberg's marketing and storytelling efforts play off that, how he approaches sampling random crazy ideas, what inspires him in terms of vintage shoes and machinery, and what the story is with the Bastion oxfords that people are definitely wondering about.

Pull up the exclusive Fall/Winter 2021 preview story and give it a listen below!
This episode is sponsored by Division Road Inc, the Seattle shop that creates some of the best Viberg, White’s, Wesco, and Tricker’s makeups you’ll find absolutely anywhere.
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Division Road's Jason Pecarich On His Viberg Makeup Mindset, Boot Development, and How In The Hell to Save Retail May 11, 2021

Show notes

Five years ago, Jason Pecarich took his extensive experience in the menswear industry and opened Division Road Inc. in Seattle: a collaboration-driven menswear shop headlined by boot and shoe makeups from Tricker's, White's, Wesco, and what would quickly become hands-down the deepest Viberg lineup anywhere in the world.
So how'd he he do it? We get into Jason's uniquely in-depth footwear design outlook that leans heavily on long-term function and comfort in addition to style, what the extended process to truly develop multiple exclusive models—most notably the Shelby boot series—with Viberg looked like, if we'll see more Shelbies in the future, and what he thinks the future of physical retail looks like in general and for Division Road, Oh and Katz's pastrami sandwiches and how Ben hasn't somehow seen When Harry Met Sally.
This episode was sponsored by Grant Stone, perhaps the best overall value in shoes and boots, period
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Ron Rider Reveals the Secrets Behind Private Label Shoemaking, and Plenty More May 04, 2021

Show notes

If Ron Rider isn't the most interesting person in the shoe game, we certainly want to meet whoever is. Ron's lived his whole career in shoes, creating the cult favorite Rider Boot Co. and now acting as one of the behind-the-scenes straws that stir the private label drink for a crazy range of brands.
This week, Ticho and Ben talk to Ron about how private label works (it gets pretty weird!), his vision for how shoe sizing needs to be done correctly, what's going on with his latest project with Ledbury's sub-brand Tangier, and how many pints of Guinness you need to buy him to do a deal.
Ron is simply the best, and if you skip this episode, your life will be considerably worse.
This episode was sponsored by Grant Stone, perhaps the best overall value in shoes and boots, period
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Underrated Leathers and Tanneries You Really Need to Be Considering Apr 12, 2021

Show notes

While there are a handful of "name" leathers and tanneries out there, it's almost shocking how many of both go completely under the radar, even for hardcore boot & shoe lovers.
So this week, Ticho and Ben from Stitchdown.com get DEEP into tanneries around the world that really need to be more in the conversation, as well as specific leather articles from bigger-name tanneries that are definitely worth a look for a future pair.
This episode is sponsored by Division Road Inc, the Seattle shop that creates some of the best Viberg, White's, Wesco, and Tricker's makeups you'll find absolutely anywhere.

Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

Shoebag!! What's the Best Fitting Last? How to Break In Engineers? Boots + Suits? And More! Apr 06, 2021

Show notes

That's right, Ticho and Ben from Stitchdown.com are back to answer listener questions on another absolutely thrilling Shoebag episode.
What's the best way to break in engineer boots so you can get then on and off nice and easy? How many pairs should you have if you want to really get each wear in a rotation? What's the deal with Tyrolean shoes? And perhaps most importantly, if you had to wear leather underwear, what leather would you go with??? (Real question that we give a real answer to.)
All shall be answered! And plenty more.
This episode was sponsored by Grant Stone, one of Stitchdown's Best Value Shoemakers

Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

How Nicole Porter's Artisan Boot & Shoe is Breathing New Life Into US Footwear Manufacturing Mar 29, 2021

Show notes

Two and a half years into its existence, Artisan Boot & Shoe—which sprung forth following the Batavia, New York P.W. Minor factory's unfortunate demise—is showing signs that while American footwear manufacturing might not be what it was decades ago, it's definitely got a fighting chance to show new growth alongside the Pacific Northwest and and Maine-based stalwarts we love over here at Stitchdown.
Artisan's owner Nicole Porter has shepherded the operation's emergence, manufacturing for Stitchdown favorite Parkhurst and Wolverine, and seeing an interesting influx of new brand partners especially over the last year. This episode, Ben and Ticho from from Stitchdown.com talk to Nicole about how the whole P.W. Minor thing went down, how she constructed Artisan, her outlook on the broader US shoe manufacturing industry, and the challenges she faces being a woman in a male-dominated space.
It's an important and fascinating conversation, and an extremely fun one despite some very real moments. Also we eat a lot of Oliver's sponge candy, which is also very important.
This episode was sponsored by Standard & Strange, where you don't NEED an engineering degree to buy their engineer boots...but it helps.
Theme music: The Road by Punk Rock Opera

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