the Sharp End Podcast

Ep 106 - Solo Ground Fall - Chris Gardner Nov 01, 2024

May of 2023, Chris set out to rope solo Virgin Wool (5.8 C2) in Arches National Park. The description of the first pitch read: "5.7 - sporty - no pro.” To Chris, it looked harder than a 5.7 from the ground, and he noticed a seam that he thought he could aid up, so he decided to try and aid climb the route. It didn’t go as planned and he ripped out two cams and fell 10 feet to the ground, landing on his heels before tumbling backwards. After a lot of self reflection (and therapy), Chris learned a bit about the psychology of climbing solo, and a bit more about risk management. Tune in this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at www.amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 105 - Avalanched On Mount Shasta - Tanner And Parker Oct 01, 2024

In April of this year (2024), Tanner and Parker were swept down Mt. Shasta after triggering a wind stab. After a 12 hour ground rescue, they were finally off the mountain, but did sustain physical and mental injuries from the traumatic event. Tune into this episode to hear their story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, ZOLEO and AmazFit. → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Get 15% off the T-Rex 3 watch at US.Amazfit.com/sharpend → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 104 - I Believe In Helmets - Brandon Cox Sep 01, 2024

In March of this year, Brandon took his wife and a visiting climber from Hungry to the Atlantis climbing area in Queen Creek Canyon near Phoenix, AZ. They were warming up on some easy routes and were all thoroughly enjoying the day. On Brandon’s second lead of the day climbing an easy 5.8, things were going fine until they weren’t. From what Brandon later heard from his belayer, wife, and a bystander who witnessed the event, he was approximately 7-8 ft above his last bolt (the second bolt in the climb) and at clipping level to the next one, when a flake of rock he was using as a toehold sheared off quite suddenly. The flake fell and hit his belayer's hand, who had the presence of mind not to lose the rope. Brandon fell, hit a ledge with his shoulder and then head and then hit the ground 20 feet below. Listen here for the full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. HELMET GIVEAWAY: Brandon feels so passionately about people wearing helmets, that he wants to purchase TWO helmets for TWO people that would be unable to purchase their own helmet due to financial reasons. He was wearing a Black Diamond Capitan helmet when he had his unplanned encounter with gravity (and that’s what very likely saved his life) so that’s the helmet he wants to purchase to give away. In order to be considered for this helmet sponsorship, head over to thesharpendpodcast.com and sign up on the homepage. Remember, this is exclusive to people who do not already have a helmet due to financial reasons. Giveaway will be on September 30th. Good luck! → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 103 - Rock Strike On Mt. Shasta - Sean Oldfield Aug 01, 2024

Sean Oldfield was climbing Mount Shasta this year in May when he was violently struck in the back of the head by a falling rock on his descent. Despite wearing a helmet (which saved his life), Sean ended up getting flown off the mountain in a helicopter to the hospital, where he received multiple staples in his head, a fractured skull, and a concussion. Tune in to hear the details and what he learned. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and LIVSN. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code TSE10 (limited to 30 uses) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 102 - Heat Stroke On The R2R2R - Kirk And Fred Jul 01, 2024

Kirk and Fred have been friends for a long time. They have done adventure races together in the past and know where their limits lie. During this adventure, Fred nearly lost his life to heat stroke when they were doing the Rim to Rim to Rim (R2R2R) in the Grand Canyon. Kirk and Fred talk openly about what led up to the incident and how they managed it during and after. Tune in to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie. → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 101 - Bit By A Rattlesnake - Julia Fiorino Jun 01, 2024

This is a crazy incident where my guest was bit by a rattlesnake in June of 2022 and ended up in the hospital for 12 straight days. She was climbing at Consumnes River Gorge in Lake Tahoe and it was going to be her first time trad climbing. The crew was getting all set up near the first climb, she decided to use the “facili-trees” (if you will) before putting on her harness. She walked away from the group and found a private area, was about to go when she felt something bit her! Tune into this crazy story of a rattlesnake bite and her long road to recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Institute. Sign up on Instagram to win some climbing gear from Ropelite valued at $185! The kit includes: two 6-foot Red Ultralight Anchor Slings Two 20-inch Ultralight Hitch Cords and One Skimo Tether. That is a $185 dollar value. Drawing is on June 15th. Don’t forget to sign up for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ → Use code “SharpEnd25” to save $25 on the fall WFA course October 5-6 2024 at the Monadnock Climbing Gym. Register at https://www.climb-monadnock.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 100 - Backcountry Ski Accident: Part Two - Taylor Rose May 01, 2024

This is Part Two of this story sequence with Taylor Rose. If you haven’t tuned in to episode 99, stop here and go back and listen to Part One (Episode 99) where Taylor Rose shares all about the details of his accident when he broke his femur on April 2nd, 2021 backcountry skiing in Huntington Ravine in the Mount Washington area. In this episode, Taylor reflects on what he learned and how he moved through the challenging recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy and supported by the American Alpine Club. To sign up for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ Sign up to win a pair of Rocky Talkie Mountain Radios at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing on May 15th. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 99 - Backcountry Ski Accident: Part One - Taylor Rose Apr 01, 2024

Taylor Rose is a twenty-four year old guy who loves the outdoors. He was out skiing in the backcountry with some friends in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington in 2021 when he suffered a broken femur from a long sliding fall that resulted in a rescue involving his crew and the Mount Washington Avalanche Center. Tune in to hear part one of this series. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 98 - Dropped In Joshua Tree - Devin Farkas Mar 01, 2024

Devin Farkas was instructing a ten day climbing course in Joshua Tree National Park this last January. They were on day two of this ten day course when Devin’s trip was cut short. Tune into this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 97 - Accident In Yosemite - Grant And David Feb 01, 2024

On Fourth of July weekend, two climbing partners, Grant and David, set out to climb a 2,200 foot climb on the Northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in California. The conditions were perfect to climb this beautiful and exposed twenty-three pitch climb. Things started out perfectly, but not everything turned out as they had planned. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

January 2024 Bonus Episode - BroadBeta Jan 15, 2024

In this BONUS episode, I chat with Jeannie Wall and Catherine Coe about an idea that came to life. Jeannie is the founder of BroadBeta which aims to “embolden women through shared stories to embrace wild ideas, wild experiences, and preserve the wildness.” Tune into this bonus episode to hear more about this idea, how it came to life, and what it’s all about. To learn more and to get involved, head to their website: www.BroadBeta.com This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe

Ep 96 - Indian Creek Fall - Drew Clements Jan 01, 2024

Andrew Clements was climbing in Indian Creek on October 18, 2023 with a couple of climbers he had met in the parking lot the same day. He was on a route called Gorilla, which is rated 5.10b, which was his 3rd route of the day. He was standing about 2 feet above his last piece of gear when he fell. Drew injured his hand and both of his heels. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

December 2023 Bonus Episode - RopeLite LLC Dec 20, 2023

Douglas started this small gear company because he saw a need in the outdoor climbing and rescue community. As a member of Search and Rescue, he found he needed specific gear for specific tasks that could create efficiency within certain tasks. Tune into this episode to hear what RopeLiteLLC is, why and how it started and how this whole interview came about. Check out his gear at www.RopeLiteLLC.com This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast

Ep 95 - We Rescued A Skier Who Fell In A Crevasse On Mt Baker - Allen Taylor & Samuel Lien Dec 01, 2023

In May of 2023, Allen and Samuel were out skiing Mt. Baker, a 10,781 foot active glacier-covered stratovolcano in the North Cascades of Washington when they came upon another skier who fell 35 feet down inside a crevasse after the snow bridge he was standing on collapsed. With their knowledge of rope skills and crevasse rescue, they sprung into action to rescue the stuck skier. Tune in to this episode to hear all of the details. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, Minus33 and Protekt and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

November 2023 Bonus Episode - The Wonders Of Wool With Lawson Glidden Nov 09, 2023

Have you ever heard the phrase “Cotton Kills?” One thing that we can each do to be a responsible outdoors person is to dress appropriately for the activity and weather to minimize the risk of getting too wet and too cold which could lead to hypothermia. Today I talk with Lawson Glidden, owner of Minus33, an American company founded in New Hampshire in 2001. They have been making wool textiles for 100 years bringing you apparel that will keep you warm when wet. Lawson is extremely passionate about wool and you’ll have to tune in to hear why. I present, “the wonders of wool.” → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast

Ep 94 - The Summit Was Closed - Michael Habicht Nov 01, 2023

In April of 2023, Michael Habicht headed over to Nepal to climb the striking 6,812 meter tall mountain, Ama Dablam. As a solo climber, he was met with some unique challenges and learned a ton from his expedition. After Michael got back from this trip he made the decision not to climb 8,000 meter peaks because of the experience he shares on this episode. His reasoning has nothing to do with his technical skills, but you’ll have to tune in to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 93 - Rope Soloing Epic - Duane Swanson Oct 01, 2023

Duane Swanson was rope soloing and found himself in a situation where he got stuck on the rock wall without food or water for nine hours and then had to figure out how to descend… by himself. Tune in to this episode to hear what rope soloing is and how he managed to self rescue. Other articles on Rope Soloing mentioned in the episode include: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/pete_whittaker/how_to_rope_solo_-_with_pete_whittaker-11160 https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/rope-solo-rock-climbing-how-to This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 92 - Lowering Accident In City Of Rocks - Myriam Bouchard Sep 01, 2023

Myriam Bouchard and her partner were at the City of Rocks having an amazing climbing trip. They were on a 5.8 climb called ‘Twist and Crawl’ and when her partner was at the anchor, he told her that he was ready to be lowered. She began lowering him when all of a sudden, the rope slipped through the belay device and he fell 20 feet down to the ground. Listen to hear the entire story and how she explains experiencing, “the greatest terror of her life.” This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 91 - BASE Jumping Accident - Derek Demyanek Aug 01, 2023

BASE jumping accidents are rarely talked about and I’ve always wondered why. Last month, Derek reached out to me to share his story regarding a BASE jumping accident that he was involved in and I was eager to hear it. He was jumping with three of his good military friends on October 25, 2014 when his lines got twisted very shortly after he jumped off the Roan Plateau in Rifle, Colorado. It was one of the last jumps of the season before weather rolled in and winter began to start. Hear all about his accident, his evacuation and how he’s changing the way the BASE jumping culture looks at accidents within the sport. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. Make sure to vote for the most inspiring rescue of the year at RockyTalkie.com/2023SARaward. Voting closes August 11th at midnight. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 90 - We Survived A Lightning Storm On Wolf's Head, Cirque Of The Towers - Bryce And James Jul 01, 2023

In July of 2022, one year ago, just last summer, Bryce and James took a climbing trip to the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range in Wyoming. They planned on climbing the Cirque of the Towers traverse. First, they started out up the South Buttress of Pingora and had a beautiful time on the route. At the top of the climb, that’s when they would start the traverse over to Tiger Tower and then over to Wolf’s Head. All was going just as planned until weather moved in… and weather moved in FAST. Tune in to this episode to hear what happened. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. Jame’s book suggested about decision heuristics: "Thinking, Fast and Slow" by Daniel Kahneman --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd  -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND  --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 89 - My Experience With Heat Illness - Austin Anderson Jun 01, 2023

On July 30, 2022, Austin suffered a heat illness that could have cost him his life. He was climbing on the Olympic Peninsula with two of his friends. They set out to climb ‘The Brothers,’ which are the two highest mountains in that range that you can see from miles and miles away. Due to his heat illness, he ultimately pressed the SOS button to get rescued. Listen to this episode to hear what happened during this specific event and how this event led him to finding out he actually had undiagnosed thyroid cancer that was growing for years. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

BONUS Episode 001! The 90lb Rucksack - Christian Beckwith May 24, 2023

I recently interviewed Christian Beckwith who is (among many additional pursuits) the founder of The Teton Climbers’ Coalition, co-founder of the Alpinist Magazine, founder of the non-profit SHIFT, a skilled alpinist, and most recently, creator and host of the podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. Ninety-Pound Rucksack is a podcast dedicated to retracing the journey of America’s original mountain warriors, the 10th Mountain Division. I am so stoked to share this special bonus episode with all of my listeners! A video version of the interview is available on YouTube. Learn more about Christian and his podcast via the link in my bio or wherever you get your podcast fix. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This episode is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND --> 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart

Ep 88 - Ski Mountaineering Fall On South Maroon Bell, CO - Matt Randall May 01, 2023

Last spring in May of 2022, Matt Randall took a 1,000 foot fall from the top of South Maroon Bell, one that he undoubtedly shouldn't have survived. He was solo ski mountaineering just outside of Aspen Colorado and Matt somehow got lucky and walked away with zero injuries and one broken ski. He wants to share his experience because he believes it would be beneficial for others to hear since he’s convinced there are lots of other people out there with similar human traits. Listen to this episode to hear how someone can survive that long of a fall, and what he learned from his mistake. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 87 - Hit By A Rock, North Twin Sister In The North Cascades - Amy And Katherine Apr 02, 2023

On June 3, 2020, two good friends, Kat and Amy, set out to climb the North Twin Sister in the North Cascades in Washington State. They initially had a beautiful weather window so they went for it. They were having a great time when the weather started to move in, visibility got low and they decided to turn around. On the descent, Amy accidentally dislodged a microwave sized rock that tumbled down hitting Kat, shattering most of her hand and breaking through her radius and ulna. Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what they both learned, how they got rescued and the impacts this had on their friendship. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! Voucher is transferable. Expires December 31, 2024. Sign up at thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 86 - Crevasse Fall On Athabasca Glacier - Gabriella Clark Mar 01, 2023

Gabs was coming down the Athabasca Glacier after spending nine days winter camping up on the Columbia Ice-Fields. Her crew had just re-supplied two days prior with another ten days worth of food/fuel, and soon after, her ski went parallel to a narrow crevasse and her pulk (a snow sled she was towing behind her) lined up with her body. She then broke through a snow bridge, falling ten meters down into the icy, freezing cold crevasse! Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what she learned, and how she got out of the crevasse. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! This voucher is transferable and expires December 31, 2024. To sign up, visit my website at www.thesharpendpodcast.com and enter the giveaway right on the homepage. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 85 - Climber Rescues Base Jumper In Utah - River Barry Feb 01, 2023

On November 22, 2022, just two days after Thanksgiving, River Barry was gearing up to go mountain biking in Kings Creek, Moab, Utah. Things quickly changed when all of a sudden, a base jumper crashed into the sandstone rock and was dangling ever so delicately 80-100 feet above the ground. River soon found herself in the middle of a rescue. Listen into this episode to hear what happened and what she learned from being at the right place at the right time. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20

Ep 84 - Lead Fall On The Sun Wall At Looking Glass Rock - Taylor Fields Jan 01, 2023

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022, Taylor Fields needed to release some school stress so he chose to go rock climbing. He went out with his best friend to climb "The Odyssey" on the Sun Wall at Looking Glass Rock in North Carolina. The Odyssey is a 5 pitch traditional route that is rated 5.11- on Mountain Project. Let's just say Taylor didn't walk back to the car after this. Listen in to this episode to hear what happened and what Taylor learned from his accident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This episode is brought to you by Rocky Talkies. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 83 - My Accident On A Multi-Pitch Climb In New Hampshire - Ryan Dec 01, 2022

On October 6, 2021, Ryan and his climbing partner headed out to climb at a crag in North Conway, New Hampshire called Whitehorse Ledge. This climbing area is known for runout slab climbing. They had their eyes set on a nine pitch trad route rated 5.9. They loaded up their climbing racks and went for it. On pitch five of the climb, Ryan slipped. Listen to this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Rocky Talkies is the sole sponsor of this episode. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 82 - Impaled On Mt Rainier - Aavron Nov 01, 2022

Aavron was on Mt Rainier when he slipped and fell, pulling his climbing partner down a slippery slope with him. During the fall, he was impaled by his ice ax. The surgeons said that packing the wound with snow saved his life. Using that resource was life or death to Aavron. By packing snow in his open chest wound, he was able to see his two boys and girlfriend again. Listen into this episode to hear what happened and what Aavron learned from this accident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Thank you to Rocky Talkies for consistently sponsoring this podcast so I can get these stories out to you. Thank you to my two good buddies over at Primitive Gourmet for sponsoring this episode and thank you, as always, to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 81 - One Thousand Foot Slide Down Mount Baldy - Andrew Oct 01, 2022

Andrew has been sport climbing for around 10 years and wanted to get some alpine/mountaineering experience under his belt. He did a handful of mountaineering climbs leading up to this particular climb (one being Mt Whitney) and then he and his climbing partner set their eyes on Mount Baldy (aka Mount San Antonio), the highest peak in the San Gabriel Mountains in California, sitting at 10,064 feet. On January 19, 2019 he set out to climb this peak with his climbing partner and his Golden Retriever, Charlie. Listen into this episode to hear what caused Andrew’s 1,000 foot fall on this mountain and what he learned from this experience. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Rocky Talkies is the sole sponsor of this episode. Thank you to the American Alpine Club for the consistent support. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at www.skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart

Ep 80 - A Different Perspective On Last Month's Oval Peak Incident - Enji Cooper Sep 01, 2022

In today’s episode, I talk with Enji Cooper about what happened on Oval Peak with Glenn Block on the 8,800-foot mountain in the North Cascades of Washington state. This episode is a follow up from last month’s episode number 79. (Make sure to listen to episode 79 before listening to this one!) There were many questions that listeners had about some of the finer details of Glenn’s account. Tune in to hear Enji share their perspective of what happened and why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Ski Babes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> $20 off Ski Babes training at skibabes.com with code SHARPENDBABES --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 79 - Oval Peak Misery - Glenn Block Aug 01, 2022

Glenn Block and his friend Enji set out to climb Oval Peak, an 8,800-foot mountain in the North Cascades of Washington state. At the time, Glenn was a novice hiker and admits he didn’t fully understand what he was getting himself into. As a result, he has many learnings from this experience. Being prepared and prepping for a hike like this is extremely important. What I admire about Glenn is that he’s humble enough in his personal mountaineering journey to share these learnings with you to minimize future outdoor accidents. Listen in to episode 79 to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while on the road working a remote contract as Safety Manager for another wilderness survival tv production and while still recovering from knee surgery.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Arc’teryx and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND10 —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —>15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 78 - Rescued Off Kit Carson Peak - Rachel Pisula Jul 01, 2022

Rachel Pisula set out on July 29, 2020 on a pretty nice, mostly sunny day in Colorado to climb two fourteeners in the Sangre De Cristo Mountains about 3 hours from her home in Golden, Colorado. By this point in the summer, Rachel thinks she already hiked ten fourteeners with her dog, Emmett. She was feeling strong and confident. Her objective on this particular day was to climb Challenger Point and Kit Carson Peak in a day. Unfortunately, she got turned around on a tricky part of the hike and ended up needing a rescue. Listen in to hear Rachel’s full story and how her and her dog Emmett made it down. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while being laid up from knee surgery.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes, Swoop and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —>15% off Swoop garments —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 77 - I Witnessed A Free Solo Fall - Clara Leonard Jun 01, 2022

Clara was climbing at a local crag in Tennessee called King’s Bluff where she witnessed a free solo accident & was heavily involved in the rescue. The climber was out alone on a weekday, and her and her partner were the only other people at the crag. The climber that fell was climbing on an unestablished route and ended up being rescued via boat on the Cumberland River. A pretty interesting story and Clara definitely has some key takeaways to share with Sharp End listeners. Tune here to hear her story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe while being laid up from knee surgery.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 76 - LIVE w/ Arc'teryx Athlete Adam Campbell May 01, 2022

On January 10th, 2020 Adam Campbell and his wife, Laura Kosakoski were skiing with their friend Kevin in the Mount Hector area of Banff National Park. Laura skied first, Kevin followed, as Adam approached the slope, he triggered a size 2.5 avalanche that pushed Laura into a terrain trap and buried her with over 12 feet of snow. Although Adam and Kevin were able to get to her, she never regained consciousness. She passed away from her injuries the next day. Adam has had to live with the grief and trauma of triggering the slide and losing his wife ever since. This episode was recorded LIVE at the American Alpine Club’s Annual Benefit weekend in Denver, Colorado on March 26th, 2022. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Sterling Ropes and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 75 - Bad Fall, Broken Face - Joe Lovin Apr 01, 2022

Tune in to episode 75 of the Sharp End Podcast to hear Joe Lovin share his story about a climbing fall he took in Clear Creek Canyon outside of Denver, Colorado. He talks about what went wrong and the important lessons he learned from his fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Episode 75 - Teaser Clip Mar 16, 2022

Bad fall, Broken face (Ep. 75) Tune in to episode 75 of the Sharp End Podcast to hear Joe Lovin share his story about a climbing fall he took in Clear Creek Canyon outside of Denver, Colorado. He talks about what went wrong and the important lessons he learned from his fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart #climbing #wildernessmedicine #podcast #outdoorpodcast #clearcreekcanyon #coloradoclimbing #climbingaccident

Ep 74 - Buried By Ken Wylie Mar 01, 2022

In this episode, Ken Wylie, author of the book “Buried,” recounts the horrific accident of La Traviata in Revelstoke, British Columbia. On January 20, 2003, thirteen people were caught in an avalanche while ascending the La Traviata West Couloir. Seven people died. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code THE_SHARP_END_PODCAST20 Check out Ken Wylie’s book BURIED. Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 73 - An Unplanned Bivy At 13,000 Feet - Christian Feb 01, 2022

Mount Emerson is located in the Sierra Nevada in eastern California. It’s the 116th highest mountain in California. Christian and a friend set out to climb it and ended up spending an extremely cold and uncomfortable night out on the mountain side at 13,000 feet. Listen in to hear Christian’s learning from the unplanned bivvy. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 If you’re interested in reading one of Christian Kiefer’s novels, here are a couple of book titles: Phantoms, The Infinite Tides, and The Animals Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 72 - Pulling Pieces In California - Kyle Broxterman Jan 01, 2022

Kyle Broxterman was consistently climbing strong. He was stoked on pushing himself physically and to continue to push the grades. Kyle and a couple of friends went out to a new crag on Donner Summit outside of Lake Tahoe, California. It was a beautiful day, they climbed a few routes and then Kyle decided to attempt to onsite a slightly overhanging, lightening bolt crack. Listen in to hear why Kyle is taking a step back from letting his ego drive his climbing and how he is managing his recovery from a terrible fall. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe.  Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Club.

Ep 68 - Caught In A Storm On The Second Pitch - Ed Dec 23, 2021

In late July 2016, Ed and three other climbers in his group were caught in a sudden storm on top of 180 foot, two pitch climb called ”Waves" in the Black Hills behind Rushmore. With estimated 50 mph winds, a dangerous plunging temperature, and golf-ball-sized hail, getting off the climb was a test of experience, concentration, and teamwork. Listen to the end of this episode to hear Desert Mountain Medicine’s Program Director Morgan Matthews (RN, CEN, WFR) talk about why Hypothermia is no joke. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Get 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 71 - Getting Rescued in Zion National Park - Aaron and Ian Davis Dec 01, 2021

Aaron and Ian are a father / son climbing team. Aaron is a teacher and Ian is a student and they both had summer break off. In June of 2021, they decided to take advantage of their summer break and head to Zion National Park, a climbing destination they try and go to at least once a year. Listen in to episode 71 to hear what went wrong and how they were rescued off this multi-pitch climb. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, CRUDE Conversations, and Desert Mountain Medicine. —> Nominate your favorite SAR team at https://americanalpineclub.org/rocky-talkie-award --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 70 - Learning How to Multi-Pitch, Gone Wrong - Nick Tollison Nov 01, 2021

Nick, owner of Beta, wanted to learn how to multi pitch climb. He’d been climbing in a local indoor gym on a pretty regular basis for about three years. He went out with his climbing partner and someone they recently met who said he’d teach them how to multi-pitch climb. The three of them went out to Clarks Canyon to learn the basics. This is where the trip goes south. Listen into this episode to hear what went wrong and what Nick learned from this incident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. I teamed up with Nick from Beta to do 3 giveaways. We'll do a giveaway every Friday for the next three weeks! Follow my instagram and facebook to learn how you can sign up! --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #beprepared #riskassessment #rockclimbing #firstaid #giveaway #AMGA

Ep 69 - Cut Ropes In El Potrero Mexico - Foster Denney Oct 01, 2021

Foster and his two best friends were in the sport multi pitch climbing paradise that is El Potrero Chico in north eastern Mexico. It was their fourth visit to that climbing area and they had their eyes on a 15 pitch climb called ‘Devotion 5.11d.’ It’s a lesser known climb that is notorious for being a bit run out, hard for the grade, and chossy. Listen in to this episode to hear Foster’s account of his huge fall that resulted in a remote helicopter rescue. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, MyMedic and Desert Mountain Medicine. ---> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product at foursigmatic.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 67 - Finding Her Edge On Ellingwood Ridge - Tori Aug 01, 2021

On June 26th, 2021, Tori and a few of her friends were feeling strong and decided to climb Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in Colorado. The weather was forecasting classic Rocky Mountain afternoon thunderstorms so they got an early start. Knowing that this route was well in their ability level, they decided to go light and fast. Tune in to episode 67 to hear Tori tell her story of finding her edge on Ellingwood Ridge. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #helicopterrescue #helirescue #mountainrescue #searchandrescue #ellingwoodridge #laplata #gooutlight #ultralight #baclountryaccident

Ep 66 - Broken Neck On Mt Rae Jul 01, 2021

Four friends set off to climb Mount Rae. A 4.9 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Kananaskis Improvement in Alberta, Canada that features a beautiful forest setting and is only recommended for very experienced adventurers. On the descent, one women slipped and fell and wasn’t able to self arrest in the snow. Ultimately, she pressed the SOS on her Garmin InReach and what ensued was a heroic heli rescue. Listen in to all four perspectives of this accident. Two of the women who were there, the rescuer and even the heli pilot all share their perspective from the day Vi broke her neck. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 65 - Stormed off Mount Bierstadt, a Colorado Fourteener - Matt and Trevor Jun 01, 2021

Matt and Trevor had plenty of experience hiking 14ers in Colorado, so when Matt's Dad was in Colorado visiting they decided to take him up Mt. Bierstadt so he could check off his first 14er to celebrate turning 70. On May 8, 2021 the group was nearing the top when weather changed dramatically from what the forecast had informed them of earlier. They suddenly found themselves (along with another group of hikers) caught in a lightning storm with extremely low visibility and rapidly dropping temperatures. We all will inevitably be faced with unexpected situations in the backcountry that require us to make decisions on the fly as a group. These situations require the use of that extra gear we keep with us "just in case.” In this episode, find out why Trevor and Matt learned the importance of planning for unpredictability and for planning for overnights. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, and Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode was edited by Podboarder. Get 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 64 - Strathcona Park Heli Rescue - Jes Scott and Erica Ellefsen May 01, 2021

Jes Scott and Erica Ellefsen set out to travel 80km from Mt. Washington to Flower Ridge over eight days. Their goal was to climb eight of Strathcona Park’s tallest and most remote mountains. Strathcona Provincial Park is the oldest provincial park in British Columbia, Canada, and the largest on Vancouver Island. They wanted a trip that was physically demanding but less scary than their usual mountaineering trips. Listen in to this episode to hear what went wrong during their traverse and how their Garmin InReach device was the tool they needed to get rescued. You can read more about this accident on Jes’s personal blog: https://webelongoutside.com/2020/08/a-long-traverse-in-strathcona-park-where-many-things-go-wrong/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, Garmin, Wilderness Medicine Reference App and Desert Mountain Medicine. Sign up to win the Garmin InReach Mini on Instagram by tagging a friend AND sharing one thing you learned from this episode. I will do the drawing May 15th. Good luck! Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 63 - Epic On Mt Whitney - Jean and Ken Apr 01, 2021

Jean and Ken summited Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the continental US, on what they thought would be their last day of the trip. On the summit they were caught in a severe snow and lightning storm. Using their ice axes, they began to descend via the north face in full self-arrest position. Ken fell 800 feet down the mountain while Jean, not knowing his fate, continued down slowly and methodically towards him. Then, at one point during her descent, Jean fell 165 feet bouncing on rocks through a cliff band enduring massive trauma to her body. Listen to this episode to hear a story of extreme grit, tenacity and survival. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Buy Jean’s book at https://www.jeanmuenchrath.com Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Buy me a Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thesharpend Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 62 - Institutional Near Misses - Steve Smith Mar 01, 2021

Near-misses are greatly under-reported in general, yet they are plentiful. What leads them to be under-reported? Joel Reid, the Washington Program Director at the Northwest Outward Bound School and Steve Smith, from Experiential Consulting, chat with Ashley about why near-misses matter and the importance of reporting near misses in an institutional setting. You don’t want to miss this informative chat. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Buy a Sharp End top: https://www.bonfire.com/sharp-end-tops/ Poke around my shiny NEW website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A CONVERSATION: February Survey Results Feb 26, 2021

We put together a survey in early February so we could get to know our listeners better. We want to know who you are and what you think of the show. Over 400 people filled out this survey and we gathered some good information. Listen in as Dustin from Podboarder and Ashley talk about the results and read some of the comments from fans. By filling out the February survey, you entered to win 1 of 3 prizes. 1. One year American Alpine Membership 2. Pair of Rocky Talkies 3. Aceso Hemp Prize Pack This episode is directed by Ashley Saupe and produced by Dustin at Podboarder. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, Rocky Talkies and Aceso for hooking up my listeners with awesome prizes. Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 61 - Falling In A Fumarole - Scott Feb 01, 2021

A fumarole is an opening in the earth which emits steam and gases such as carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen chloride, and hydrogen sulfide. The steam forms when superheated water boils as its pressure drops when it emerges from the ground. These holes can be very dangerous. Listen to episode 61 as Scott tells Ashley about his fall into a fumarole during a solo ski mo attempt on Mt Hood in Oregon. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie, COROS and Desert Mountain Medicine. Win a prize package from our sponsors by taking our listener survey at: https://sharpend.typeform.com/to/F61rWth9 Get 10% off Rockie Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND If you find value in this show, please consider becoming a Patreon at patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Ep 60 - Turning The Tables - Steve Smith Jan 01, 2021

After five consecutive years of producing the Sharp End Podcast, Steve Smith at Experiential Consulting turns the tables on podcast creator Ashley Saupe and interviews her! Listen as Ashley and Steve talk about a few incidents she's had in the backcountry, how she's managed them and why she is inspired to continue producing this podcast for her listeners. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and supported by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Desert Mountain Medicine, Experiential Consulting, and Aceso Hemp. Did you know that January is National CBD Month? I’ve spent some time learning more about CBD and how to integrate into my daily life thanks to some friends at Aceso Hemp. Aceso uses the restorative power of plants to create highly targeted products, with lines that support Wellness, Calming, and Soothing. I’ve been using their topical balms (they have heat, cool, and soothing) for aches and injuries and the soothing blend of essential oils and hemp have really helped alleviate the pain. Check out how CBD can support your wellness routine with code SHARPEND for 25% off sitewide, at www.AcesoHemp.com

Ep 59 - A 200-Foot Tumble on Longs Peak - Annie Weinmann Dec 01, 2020

On the morning of September 5, Annie Weinmann and her climbing partner started up the North Chimney, a broad 500-foot slot that leads climbers to the Diamond, Colorado's premier alpine wall. Annie had done the North Chimney before and was comfortable climbing the easy terrain unroped and in approach shoes. But when she got slightly off-route, a foot slip led to a terrible tumble. In Episode 39 of the Sharp End, Annie tells Ashley what happened and how she survived a 200-foot fall, plus some fascinating insight into the circumstances that brought her to this point. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 58 - Crevasse Fall in the Tetons! - Tyler Willis Nov 01, 2020

Tyler Willis and a friend were descending from a successful ascent of Mt. Owen in Grand Teton National Park. It was late in the day when they reached the Teton Glacier, which they had crossed without a problem early that morning. Just a few steps later, Tyler plunged into a hidden crevasse, an extremely rare accident for the Tetons. By the time climbers pulled him to the surface, he was hypothermic, and it wasn't until the next day that rangers could helicopter him to safety. Hear all about it in Episode 58 of the Sharp End. Visit Sharpendpodcast.com to find video footage from the rescue and information on recognizing and treating hypothermia. The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 57 - The Flawed Knot - Brian Vines Oct 01, 2020

Brian Vines was a high school senior and a budding climber in the 1990s when he and some friends went to Sand Rock, Alabama, for a day of top-roping. On their last climb, a simple mistake led to a damaging ground fall. More than two decades later, Brian and Ashley look back at that day in Episode 57 of the Sharp End. After many years away from the sport, Brian has returned to climbing, and his 14-year-old son, J.T., now leads many of their climbs. But the lessons from that day at Sand Rock still guide their every move. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain, Suunto, Minus33, and Ski Babes. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 56 - A Long, Long Fall in the Colorado Mountains - Scott Reed Sep 01, 2020

Scott Reed and a friend trekked more than five miles into the mountains west of Denver to attempt a long, moderate ice climb during the short days of late December. At an elevation around 12,000 feet, they climbed several pitches and then, in high wind, decided to bail back down the route. Toward the bottom, Scott, age 23 at the time, pondered whether or not to rappel from just one small piece of protection and save a little money. As it turned out, his decision would be much more costly than he imagined. In Episode 56 of the Sharp End, Scott speaks with Ashley about his long fall, the incredible self-rescue back to their car, and the lessons he learned (including the value of satellite communication devices on remote climbs). The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine, Suunto, and Minus33. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 55 - Buried Alive in a Crevasse - Rita Hansen Aug 01, 2020

Summit day on Mt. Rainier had just begun. Less than an hour out of high camp, carefully leading her team up a well-trodden boot track, Rita Hansen suddenly plunged into a crevasse. After falling more than 60 feet, she was completely buried by falling ice and snow. Amazingly, Rita was basically unharmed. But she couldn’t move. In episode 55 of the Sharp End, Rita shares the details of her 2007 accident and rescue, a story she has never told publicly before. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 54 - A Tribute To Fiona Jul 01, 2020

Four friends from all over the United States met in eastern Utah in February 2020 to go canyoneering. They were all experienced canyoneers and had done trips together before. As they exited Angel Cove Canyon by the final rappel of the day, Fiona, 33, was the last person down. In Episode 54 of the Sharp End, Fiona's three companions describe what went wrong with her rappel and share some stories about their remarkable friend. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 53 - The Sleeper Wave - Alexandra Williams Jun 01, 2020

Three friends set out for a popular waterfall hike on the north shore of Kauai in late December. A high-surf warning had been issued, but the hikers didn't expect their route to take them close to the beach. Plans change, however, and accidents sometimes sneak up on you. In Episode 53 of the Sharp End, Alexandra Williams tells Ashley how a series of events led them into a very dangerous situation. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional annual support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode is also supported by Mystery Ranch. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 52 - COVID, Climbing and Rescue: Advice from Ranger Dave Weber May 01, 2020

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight nurse Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to talk COVID-19 and the issues related to outdoor recreation, first response to accidents, and staying sane during a tough stretch for outdoor adventurers. Don't forget to enter Mammut's big gear giveaway this month. Head to https://americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast to sign up. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. Support for this episode also was provided by Coros. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 51 - Blown Away in California's White Mountains - Hari Mix Apr 01, 2020

Hari Mix, a very experienced mountaineer, had planned a rare and difficult winter-season traverse of the White Mountains, the high, remote range separating California from Nevada. He had studied the weather forecasts carefully and packed the right gear, but when an intense storm struck the crest of the ridge, Hari's challenging outing became a struggle for survival. Learn what happened in episode 51 of the Sharp End! The Sharp End Podcast is sponsored by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 50 - Trouble in the Belaytionship - Meg Atteberry and John Luebbers Mar 01, 2020

Climbing is a big part of Meg Atteberry and John Luebbers' life together. John even proposed to Meg partway up a climb. So, what happened when the Colorado couple experienced a climbing accident together? In Episode 50 of the Sharp End, Ashley talks with Meg and John about their accident and how it affected both their climbing and their relationship. Don't worry, it ends well! The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Desert Mountain Medicine. This episode also was supported by Boulder Denim. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 49 - Life and Death with Charlie Sassara and Jack Tackle (LIVE!) - Charlie Sassara Feb 01, 2020

In this special live-audience recording of the Sharp End, Alaska climbing legend Charlie Sassara recalls an epic survival story and rescue from 2002. Sassara's climbing partner, Jack Tackle, was clobbered by rockfall, knocked unconscious, and broke his back high on the unclimbed north face of Mt. Augusta. Tackle regained consciousness and together they determined there was only one course of action: Sassara had to leave his partner tied to a tiny ledge, rappel off the mountain, and try to get help. Survival was far from assured...for either man. This heartfelt episode was recorded in front of a large audience at Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking in Anchorage in late December, at an event put on by the Alaska Section of the American Alpine Club. There's a Q&A session with the audience at the end. A note for listeners: The audio from this live recording has various stage and audience noise as well as occasional profanity. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship for this episode from Kavu. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 48 - Disaster in Lytle Creek Canyon - Becca, Eileen, and Justin Jan 01, 2020

On May 27, 2019, three experienced canyoneers—Becca, Eileen, and Justin—were descending the Middle Fork of Lytle Creek in California's San Bernadino Mountains. As the group completed the third rappel in the canyon, Becca moved through flowing water toward the anchor for the fourth rappel. Suddenly she slipped and disappeared over the edge of a towering waterfall. In Episode 48 of the Sharp End, Ashley speaks with all three of the canyoneers about this accident and how Becca survived, despite critical injuries and hypothermia at the bottom of a deep canyon. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support for this episode from Kavu. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 47 - Deadly Gas: Close Calls with Carbon Monoxide - Dave Weber Dec 01, 2019

Carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless, and poisonous gas, can build up to dangerous levels inside a tent during or after cooking with a stove. Sharp End hostess Ashley Saupe had a personal scare with CO poisoning, and in Episode 47 she discusses her own experience and other people's close calls with Denali mountaineering ranger Dave Weber. This episode is packed with essential information for winter mountaineers or anyone else who camps in snowy conditions. Don't miss it! Photo by Greg Stafford (https://www.gregstaffordphotography.com). The Sharp End podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This episode was also sponsored by Kavu. The Sharp End is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 46 - Pitching In: Group Rescue on Hallett Peak - Margie Root and Leslie Gains-Germain Nov 01, 2019

Margie Root and her husband were attempting the classic Culp-Bossier Route up the steep north face of Colorado's Hallett Peak. When Margie broke a hold on the run-out fifth pitch, she fell at least 50 or 60 feet and sustained several injuries. Luckily, a group of good friends, including Leslie Gains-Germain, were climbing nearby. In Episode 46 of the Sharp End, Margie and Leslie (both expert climbers) explain how this group worked together to execute a fast and effective self-rescue. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 45 - One False Step and a Year of Recovery - Sherrie Trecker Oct 01, 2019

Sherrie Trecker and a friend had just finished climbing a classic route on Cutthroat Peak in the North Cascades. It was a gorgeous day, and the descent started smoothly. But when they reached the snowy couloir leading down to the foot of the peak, it was much icier than expected. A slip led to sliding fall, and the snow was too hard for self-arrest. Sherrie slid hard into the rocks below. She was lucky and suffered relatively minor physical injuries from her long fall. But the psychological effects of the accident lingered for over a year. Episode 45 of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 44 - 40 Hours Alone - Dr. Leslie Drapiza Sep 01, 2019

Dr. Leslie Drapiza had carefully planned a winter hike of Oregon's Mt. Defiance on Superbowl Sunday, expecting the 12-mile round trip to go as smoothly as her previous training climbs. But when she got off-route during the descent, one bad thing led to another. By the time she was rescued, Leslie had spent two nights out in the cold and snow. In episode 44 of the Sharp End, Leslie tells her story: how she got stranded, how she survived, and how she dealt with incident in the weeks and months that followed. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 43 - A Rough Intro to Aid Climbing - Andrew Smith Aug 01, 2019

Andrew Smith from Texas dreamed of climbing big walls in Yosemite Valley. He had learned to climb traditional routes with an experienced mentor and had practiced aid climbing in a specially equipped gym. When he decided to try his first outdoor aid climb, he chose the nearby Wichita Mountains in Oklahoma. But things did not go as smoothly as he'd hoped. Andrew fell near the top of his climb, pulled out multiple pieces of protection, and nearly hit the ground. In episode 43 of the Sharp End, Andrew and Ashley talk through his preparation, the fateful climb, and what went wrong that day. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional sponsorship from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This episode received additional support from Matador Adventure Travel Gear and Tribe Alpha. The Sharp End podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 42 - Painful Lessons on the Nose of El Capitan - Mike Drake Jul 01, 2019

In 2012, Mike Drake was still a young climber, but he and his partner were well prepared for the Nose of El Cap and felt ready to take the next step in their climbing. They made it more than 20 pitches up the route before Mike suffered a damaging fall off the notorious short crack above Pancake Flake. In this episode, Mike and Ashley talk through the accident and rescue, and Mike shares insights about the long road to recovery, both physical and mental. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Suunto and the Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 41 - A Montana Mishap (Why More Leaders Should Wear Helmets) - Casey Brown Jun 01, 2019

Casey Brown and a friend were trying a seldom-climbed route at a limestone crag in western Montana. A huge block pulled loose. He tumbled toward the ground. Somewhere along the way, his helmet shattered. He believes the helmet saved his life. In episode 41 of the Sharp End, Casey and Ashley debrief this accident and the ways climbers choose to use (or fail to use) their vital head gear. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 40 - Malcolm Daly's Legendary Alaskan Epic May 01, 2019

Twenty years ago this month, Malcolm Daly and Jim Donini attempted a new route on Thunder Mountain in the Alaska Range. After Daly fell near the top of the climb, the ensuing rescue was one of the most dramatic in Alaskan mountaineering history. In episode 40 of the Sharp End, listen to Daly tell this legendary story in vivid detail. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support for this episode from Kavu, Colorado Outward Bound School, and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 39 - Whipper in the Red - Stephen Leimgruber Apr 01, 2019

Stephen Leimgruber and his wife were wrapping up a day at Fortress Wall in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. He wanted to do just one more climb. Some warning lights were flashing: They were tired, it was getting dark, clouds were threatening rain. But, hey, he thought: It's a well-protected 5.8. What could go wrong? Find out what exactly happened, and what Stephen learned from it, in this episode. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 38 - Avalanche in Colorado - Mike Zawaski Mar 01, 2019

Mike Zawaski and a friend were ski touring in the popular Jones Creek area of Colorado in mid-December. Mike started their descent first and stopped in what he thought would be a safe point, but a slab avalanche broke loose and swept him hundreds of feet down the slope, breaking his femur. In this episode, learn how even well-trained and well-prepared ski mountaineers can get caught in the wrong place at the wrong time. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Boulnd School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 37 - When and How to Call for Help! - Dave Weber Feb 01, 2019

Denali mountaineering ranger and flight medic Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to discuss the ins and outs of calling for a rescue: when to do it (and when not to), how to make the call and what to say, and how to prepare for a helicopter rescue. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo by Menno Boermans.

Ep 36 - Hypothermia! - Jason Eicholtx Jan 01, 2019

Ice climbing in Michigan's Upper Peninsula can be seriously cold. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Jason Eicholtx about a midwinter adventure in the UP that went dangerously wrong as an ice climber collapsed with hypothermia. Plus, wilderness medicine specialist Dr. Bryan Jarrett explains how to prevent hypothermia and treat it in the field. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 35 - The Aftermath - Starr Jamison Dec 01, 2018

Starr Jamison suffered the agony of watching a good friend die in an avalanche in Colorado. He was one of three friends she lost to avalanches in a single year. In this episode, Starr describes the first accident and the painful, disorienting aftermath, how she recovered, and how she's working to help others deal with similar experiences. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 34 - Psychological First Aid - Laura McGladrey Nov 01, 2018

When climbers, skiers, and other backcountry adventurers have an accident, they often aren't the only ones to suffer an injury. Partners, rescuers, and witnesses at the crag can feel the affects of "stress injuries" for years to come. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Laura McGladrey, a mental health nurse practitioner and veteran health provider in wilderness and humanitarian settings, about the importance of psychological first aid for outdoor adventurers and rescuers. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School, Suunto, and Prival USA. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 33 - Two Broken Bolts - Brad Carter Oct 01, 2018

Brad Carter had started up a very difficult climb at Index Town Wall in Washington state. In the first 50 or 60 feet, this route has three widely spaced bolts for protection. When Carter decided to rest at the third bolt, he got the shock of his life. This incident occurred almost a decade ago, but the lessons about bad bolts are extremely relevant today! The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 32 - Splashdown in Clear Creek - Patrick Stefanik Sep 01, 2018

Patrick Stefanik and a friend headed to Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado, on a beautiful Saturday in April. Crowds at the busy Creekside area forced them to change their plans, and Patrick started up an unfamiliar 5.9. When it came time to lower from the anchor, Patrick's fun day out went very, very wrong. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 31 - Falling Off Liberty Ridge - Kris Nova Aug 01, 2018

Kris Nova and a friend were attempting Mt. Rainier's remote and difficult Liberty Ridge when a boulder pulled loose and sent her on a tumbling fall, badly injuring one hand. In this episode, Kris describes her preparation for the climb, what happened on Liberty Ridge, and what she learned about calling for help after a mountain accident. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut and co-sponsored by Colorado Outward Bound School and Suunto. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 30 - Hans Florine's Accident on the Nose Jul 01, 2018

Hans Florine was attempting his 110th ascent of the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He and a partner were doing the Nose in a Day (an elite climb), but were not attempting any speed records. Yet Hans still took a bone-breaking fall, despite all of his experience. Learn what went wrong for the man who literally wrote the book on climbing the Nose. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut and co-sponsored by Suunto and Colorado Outward Bound School. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 29 - Broken Back on Half Dome - Alex Doria and Jonathan Wachtel Jun 01, 2018

It was October 2017, and Alex Doria and Jonathan Wachtel were starting up a dream climb: the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, high over Yosemite Valley. Alex was in the lead on the third pitch, and he felt good. Too good, as it turned out. He ran it out a long way between protection, and just as he was getting ready to place his next piece, he lost his balance and fell. Alex, Jonathan, and Ashley discuss what happened next and the lessons they learned. This episode of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Colorado Outward Bound School, and Health IQ. This show is based on Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club (AAC), and is produced by the AAC.

Ep 28 - Ground Fall at Calico Basin - Greg Smith May 01, 2018

Greg Smith was 10 feet above his last piece of protection on a moderate climb in Calico Basin, outside Las Vegas, when he fell unexpectedly. His only piece pulled out and he hit the ground. At least that's what his climbing partner tells him, because he has very little memory of the day. In this episode, Greg and Ashley talk through the accident and the painful aftermath. Find more details about this incident report in Greg's report for Accidents in North American Climbing: https://bit.ly/2rdN8Kj. The Sharp End Podcast is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Health IQ. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 27 - The Rushed Rappel - Ryan Bowie Apr 01, 2018

Ryan Bowie, 34, was ice climbing with a friend in the remote backcountry near their home in Tumbler Ridge, British Columbia. When Ryan set up a rappel from the top of a vertical ice wall, the highly experienced climber made a series of bad judgments, resulting in a terrifying plunge that could have ended a lot worse. In this episode, Ryan reflects on what went wrong that day. The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Health IQ. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 26 - Live with Quinn Brett Mar 01, 2018

In October 2017, well-known climber Quinn Brett fell over 100 feet while attempting a speed ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. She now lives with paralysis. For this very special episode of the Sharp End, Quinn spoke with Ashley about her climbing, the accident in Yosemite Valley, and the painful aftermath in front of a live audience at the American Alpine Club's Annual Benefit Dinner in February. This episode of the Sharp End podcast was made possible by Mammut, Petzl, Health IQ, and Colorado Outward Bound School, and was produced by the American Alpine Club. Thanks to Chris Kalous for assistance in Boston and to Vince Schaefer / Cold House Media for photography.

Ep 25 - The Deadly Hole On Aasgard Pass - Steve Smith Feb 01, 2018

Steve Smith was glissading down from Aasgard Pass, gateway to the Enchantments in Washington State, when he plunged into a deep hole caused by a waterfall of melting snow. This was a dangerous mistake: Several hikers and climbers have died falling into this same hole. Steve is now the climbing education manager for the Mountaineers and owner of Experiential Consulting, a risk-management consulting firm for outdoor programs. In this riveting episode, he shares the many lessons from that day on Aasgard Pass. The Sharp End podcast is made possible by Mammut, Health IQ, and Colorado Outward Bound School, and is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 24 - Ground Fall in Eldorado Canyon - Japhy Dhungana Jan 01, 2018

Japhy Dhungana, a Nepal-born, Colorado-based climbing guide, aspired to lead Evictor, a notorious 5.12 climb at the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Canyon. After rehearsing the route on top-rope and practicing the critical gear placements, Japhy made a lead attempt at the end of the day last March. When he let go near the top, Japhy expected take a long but safe fall. But that's not what happened. This episode of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Health IQ and the Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 23 - Avalanche! - Tyler Smoker Dec 01, 2017

Tyler Smoker and friends were out for an early season tour near Hatcher Pass, Alaska, in November. He let down his guard for a moment and took a terrifying ride. Ashley and Tyler use their deep knowledge of backcountry snow safety to discuss what mistakes were made. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 22 - The Three Essentials: Lessons from a Mountain Ranger - Dave Weber Nov 01, 2017

Flight medic and Denali mountaineering ranger Dave Weber returns to the Sharp End to discuss the common themes he's heard in the first 20 episodes of this podcast. As he tells Ashley, there are three simple but profoundly effective lessons for preventing and surviving climbing accidents. You can hear Dave's previous appearance on the Sharp End (Ep. 4) here: https://soundcloud.com/the_sharp_end/denali-ranger-dave-weber-a-day-in-the-life. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 21 - Upside Down on Hummingbird Spire - Craig Gorder and Kelsey Brasseur Oct 01, 2017

Craig Gorder, 28, and Kelsey Brasseur were attempting to climb all seven towers of the Bridger Jack formation in Utah in a single day. In mid-afternoon, as Craig started up the second pitch of Hummingbird Spire, their fifth tower of the day, he pulled off a huge sandstone block that crushed his body and cut his rope, leaving him dangling below Kelsey. In this episode, Craig describes the accident and the incredible rescue that followed. Read Craig's story about this incident in the 2017 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214389. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 20 - 140-foot Fall in Eldorado Canyon - Bill Wright and Tom Karpeichik Aug 31, 2017

Bill Wright and Tom Karpeichik were attempting a bold challenge in Colorado's Eldorado Canyon: Climb 100 guidebook pitches in a single day. To cover all that ground, they planned to simul-climb most of the way. Early that morning, four pitches up a 5.8+ route, Tom broke a hold on 5.5 or 5.6 terrain and fell, 50 feet above his last piece of protection. In this episode, Wright describes the monster, unbelayed fall that followed, how they both survived, and the lessons he took home. Read the original Accidents in North American Climbing report: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201104602/Fall-on-Rock-Simul-Climbing-Colorado-Eldorado-Canyon-State-Park. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 19 - Grand Traverse Gone Bad - Matt Olsen and Ty Guarino Aug 01, 2017

Ashley speaks with fellow Outward Bound instructors Matt Olsen and Ty Guarino, who survived a serious rappelling and rockfall accident during an attempt on the famous Grand Traverse of the Tetons. Hear about their impressive self-rescue and the lessons they learned. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 18 - Epic in Yosemite National Park - Marcus Mazzaferri Jul 01, 2017

By late April, Marcus Mazzaferri had already hiked nearly 1,000 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. He was just about to stop for the day near Tuolumne Meadows, high in Yosemite National Park, when he came across a swollen creek and decided to cross it before setting up camp. What happened next left Marcus all alone, with no gear, 15 miles from the nearest road. His story will make you wonder: What would I have done? The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 17 - The Survivor - Ryan Montoya Jun 01, 2017

In this special episode of the Sharp End, Ashley speaks with Ryan Montoya, a 23-year-old student who had the strength, skill, and fortitude to survive a terrible mountaineering accident on March 15, 2017. Just below the summit of 14,018-foot Pyramid Peak in Colorado, during a solo winter ascent, Montoya fell more than 1,500 feet down the remote east face, then made his way back toward the road over the next three days, despite serious injuries. We've given extra time to this episode to let Ryan tell his amazing story in full detail. The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School. [Note: Because of some technical difficulties, listeners may notice one or two brief gaps in this interview.]

Ep 16 - The Red Gully - Jennifer Staufer and Adam Vonnahme May 01, 2017

Experienced mountaineers Jennifer Staufer and Adam Vonnahme were descending 14,294-foot Crestone Peak in Colorado when Jen slipped on an unexpected patch of ice and careened about 150 feet down the Red Gully, sustaining multiple injuries. Jen was 10 weeks pregnant at the time, adding to their fears. In this episode, Ashley chats with Jen and Adam about the climb and the dramatic nighttime rescue that followed. This incicdent was documented in the 2016 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214127.

Ep 15 - Water in the Hole! - Skander Spies Mar 31, 2017

Skander Spies, a volunteer with Denali National Park's climbing rangers, had just headed out on patrol on the Kahiltna Glacier. Although they didn't know it yet, the rangers would record eleven separate crevasse falls that day, including Skander's. And his incident was scarier than most! The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 14 - A Rescuer Needs a Rescue Feb 28, 2017

In this story from the mountains near Steamboat Springs, Colorado, a nighttime search for two lost skiers takes a dramatic turn when one of the rescuers is caught in an avalanche. Amazingly, the team from Routt County SAR not only bring their injured teammate home, they also bring out the lost skiers! The Sharp End is produced by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 13 - Two Screws, Two Ankles - Raf Andronowski Feb 02, 2017

Raf Andronowski is a highly skilled ice climber, photographer, and gear reviewer (http://thealpinestart.com) who lives in the Canadian Rockies. But even the most experienced climbers may have a lapse in judgment...with painful consequences.

Ep 12 - Shock in Joshua Tree - David Jan 01, 2017

On November 12, David had just finished a two-pitch climb outside of Joshua Tree National Park in California. From the top, he lowered his partner to a big ledge so she could walk off. He then decided to down climb to the ledge without a belay. In this episode, David describes the accident that followed with remarkable self-awareness and good humor.

Ep 11 - A Snake Dike Tragedy - Jesse McGahey Dec 01, 2016

Around sunset on November 7, 2015, Angela Uys (26) was at an anchor partway up Snake Dike on Half Dome, preparing to rappel. Her tether system was not effectively clipped to the anchor, and when she weighted the system it failed. She fell approximately 500 feet to her death. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Yosemite climbing ranger Jesse McGahey, who responded to and investigated this tragedy, and the two discuss what went wrong and how similar accidents might be prevented. You can read Jesse's full report from Accidents in North American Climbing here: http://bit.ly/2gbz1Ba. Thanks to David Iliff (License: CC-BY-SA 3.0) for the beautiful photo of Half Dome's southwest face, where Snake Dike is found.

Ep 10 - The 69th Summit - Steven Lozano Nov 01, 2016

Climber and backcountry skier Steven Lozano summited Mount St. Helens with a friend on a beautiful April day. When two climbers joined them on top, one of them, who was making his 69th ascent of the mountain, asked Steven to take a photo of him with Mt. Rainier in the background. What happened next will be seared into Lozano's memory forever.

Ep 9 - Ego Dangers - Felipe Proaño Oct 01, 2016

Felipe Proaño, a North Face sponsored climber and native of Ecuador, took a long fall off Black Elk, a classic 5.11 climb in Wyoming's Wind River Range, and nearly left a finger behind. Felipe tells Ashley how his desire to be a "badass" backfired, with painful results.

Ep 8 - Falling Way Too Far - Alina and Ben Sep 01, 2016

Alina and Ben were climbing the Braille Book in Yosemite Valley. When Alina slipped while leading the third pitch, she fell much, much further than expected and suffered a serious spinal injury. In this episode, Ashley talks to both climbers about what went wrong that day and how Alina is recovering from the accident. Alina blogs about her recovery at http://SmallRestlessHuman.com.

Ep 7 - Hanging By A Thread - Carl Dec Aug 01, 2016

Three experienced climbers were enjoying a warm winter outing in Utah's Little Cottonwood Canyon when rockfall destroyed their belay anchor. Ashley talks with climbing guide Carl Dec about what happened that day and how good anchor-building decisions saved their lives.

Ep 6 - Caught In a Bad Place - Nick Thurston Jul 04, 2016

Nick Thurston and his climbing partner were surprised by a severe thunderstorm high on California's Bear Creek Spire. In this episode, Nick describes the lightning bolt that struck his partner and how they escaped without more serious injuries. Plus: Ashley suggests ways climbers can minimize their risk of lightning strikes when they are caught out.

Ep 5 - Bomber Anchors or Ticking Time Bombs? - Jason Haas and Brady Robinson Jun 05, 2016

We think of bolts as offering bomproof anchors and protection. But many of the bolts used by climbers today were placed at least 20 to 30 years ago, and they were never designed to be used by climbers in the first place. In 2015, a climber in California died when an old bolt failed under his body weight. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Jason Haas and Brady Robinson about bolt safety. Should climbers blindly trust bolts? And what are leaders in the climbing world doing about the problem of old bolts?

Ep 4 - Denali Ranger Dave Weber: A Day in the Life May 11, 2016

Mountaineering ranger Dave Weber describes a sobering incident in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska. Plus, Dave and Ashley discuss the realities of rescue missions and his thoughts on avoiding accidents in the mountains. Read the full story of this accident: http://bit.ly/1rGb1IU.

Ep 3 - Rescue in the Palisades - Eric Hengesbaugh Apr 06, 2016

Eric Hengesbaugh had planned an expedition into the Palisades section of the High Sierra, with support from an AAC Live Your Dream grant. But a fall during his very first climb left him with a broken ankle and back injury, hundreds of feet above the ground. Amazingly, Eric captured the entire incident on a portable recorder. Afterward, he crafted a moving podcast telling the story of the accident and the people who rescued him. In this special edition of the Sharp End, Ashley introduces Eric's story and then interviews him about the lessons learned. When you're done, you'll definitely want to hear Eric's full hour-long podcast, "Fall Risk," at this link: https://soundcloud.com/hengesbaugh/fall-risk.

Ep 2 - A Rope Too Short - Blake Bowling Mar 03, 2016

Blake Bowling aimed to redpoint 1,500 routes in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. The Madness, a 5.13 route at the Motherlode, would be number 1,499. When a friend came by his camper van and asked if Blake wanted to climb, he grabbed the rope he'd already used many times before while rehearsing the moves on the Madness. This time, however, using that rope would be a near-fatal mistake. Sharp End host Ashley Saupe interviewed Blake about his accident and the very simple steps he could have taken to prevent it. Blake and his belayer had 52 years of combined rock climbing experience, proving that experience is no guard against serious accidents. Blake's story and photos can be seen at the Accidents in North American Mountaineering website: http://bit.ly/1TrlGTB.

Ep 1 - The View from a Crevasse - Seth Adams Jan 28, 2016

Ashley interviews Seth Adams, who fell into a crevasse in Alaska's Hayes Range last spring. Hear Seth describe this scary incident and what he learned about traveling Alaskan glaciers. Here's a link to the report that will appear in Accidents 2016: http://bit.ly/20Cy2bV. And here's Seth's original account of the crevasse fall, republished at the Climbing Zine: http://bit.ly/1SUlqvl.

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