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    Outdoor

    The Power Company Climbing Podcast

    A Climber’s Podcast | In-depth conversations with climbers, coaches, and experts about how to become better climbers.

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    Latest Episodes:
    TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves Apr 14, 2024
    Show notes

    Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move?

    If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout.

    But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely...

    Read the rest on the blog!

    Watch the video on YouTube!

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

    Our Movement Practice Resource Page

    Coaching for Mastery Course

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.


    (BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool Apr 04, 2024
    Show notes

    Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there.

    Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools!

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    If you’re a coach or a climber who wants to learn how to give better feedback, check out our Coaching for Mastery course, part of the Power Company Climbing Academy.

    Go down the rabbit hole on our Movement Practice Resource Page.

    Are Your Skills Current? Also available on Spotify or Apple

    Grades Aren’t the Only Way to Measure Progress Also available on Spotify or Apple

    More from Will and our friends at Tension:

    Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All the Things

    Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E.

    Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2

    Will Anglin and Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls

    Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    _________________________

    📚 CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Intro and Topic Description

    (2:48) Climb All The Things

    (6:23) Figuring Out How to Change Me

    (8:06) Boards Make It Easier to Skip the Discomfort

    (9:12) ANNOTATION: Constraints, Compensation, and Choices

    (12:16) Climbing as Training

    (13:16) Climb What?

    (14:00) Not Stealing the Struggle

    (15:45) Unlearning Skills

    (16:50) ANNOTATION: Coach Over-Instruction and Skills Currency

    (18:19) Improvement Is Hard to Measure

    (22:50) Grades Only Say What We’ve Climbed, Not How Good We Are

    (23:30) Will’s 3 Grade System

    (24:05) ANNOTATION: Vegetable Climbs List and Diamond vs. Pyramid

    (26:10) Skills Aren’t Separate from Strength and Power

    (27:33) Skill Is the Intersection of What, How, and Doing

    (28:11) How the Tension Board 1 Is a Movement and Strength Tool

    (30:44) Just Climb, But With Intention

    (31:33) ANNOTATION: Where Strength and Movement Overlap and the Ultimate Learning Tool

    (34:31) Wrap Up

    (35:35) Credits and Outro


    BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions Mar 28, 2024
    Show notes

    Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet.

    In this episode, we discuss why she chose to also do in-person sessions alongside her remote coaching with Blake, what’s going well, how she fits the training and sessions into her busy life, and how the movement skills are showing up in her climbing.

    Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing and on Instagram

    Check out her Fast Track climbing movement course

    Listen to The Average Climber Podcast

    Book a remote consultation with Nate Drolet.

    Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

    EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

    Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full-Time Coach

    BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast

    Coaching for Mastery Course

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    _________________________

    📚 CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Intro and BUILDER Description

    (0:36) Guest Introduction and Details

    (2:45) Why Lauren Added In-Person Sessions

    (8:17) Was There a Specific Goal?

    (9:39) An Example of What Nate Noticed In Lauren’s Movement

    (18:43) Lauren Rants About Muggle Gyms

    (25:58) Fitting Sessions and Training Into Work and Life

    (33:09) Adjusting Skill Session Intensity to Fit Life Stressors

    (38:34) Kris Explains His Own Recent Skill Wins

    (41:39) How Lauren’s Skill Practice Is Showing Up In Her Climbing

    (50:14) The Complexities of Tension

    (1:00:19) Nate’s Monologues

    (1:01:43) Wrap Up

    (1:04:00) Theme


    TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing Mar 24, 2024
    Show notes

    For most of us, climbing looks like this:

    Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell.
    Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell.
    Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again

    You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way.

    In this episode, we’re going to talk about the obvious thing that most climbers are missing when it comes to difficult moves and learn several strategies that will help you do those harder moves, harder boulders, and harder routes faster.

    Read the rest on the blog!

    Watch the video on YouTube!

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    Our Movement Practice Resource Page

    Coaching for Mastery Course

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.


    EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching Mar 14, 2024
    Show notes

    Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.

    In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.

    Find Taylor online at:

    The Beta Angel Project

    International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    Research mentioned in the episode:

    Austrian Research Paper and Write Up

    Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up

    Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing

    EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)

    EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

    BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing

    BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?

    BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery

    Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic

    _________________________

    🔌SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    _________________________

    📚CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Intro

    (2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching?

    (3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed

    (10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?

    (12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research

    (13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory

    (15:37) Speed Climbing

    (19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing

    (30:32) Thematic Movement Learning

    (47:40) Movement Assessment

    (1:02:48) Teaching Movement

    (1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning

    (1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys

    (1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know?

    (1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example

    (1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors?

    (1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research?

    (1:32:55) Wrap Up

    (1:35:06) Theme


    BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience? Mar 07, 2024
    Show notes

    A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.

    In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    Our Movement Practice Resource Page

    Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing

    Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity

    Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    _________________________

    📚 CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Theme

    (0:37) Intro and Topic Description

    (3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill

    (6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill

    (10:55) What are the Pros Doing?

    (16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades

    (18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles

    (19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time

    (21:20) We Go Into Autopilot

    (23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?

    (24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments

    (28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles

    (31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall

    (35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills

    (37:16) Why We Suggest Drills

    (38:15) Autopilot Mistakes

    (42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects

    (44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits

    (49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King

    (53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills

    (55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?

    (01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?

    (01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement


    TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable Mar 03, 2024
    Show notes

    Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it.

    And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that’s fine, too. There’s no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There’s no shame in using a hold other people aren’t. What’s possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then you’ve painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesn’t offer as many opportunities to learn.

    So there’s a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is:

    Can I do it both ways?
    Can I become more adaptable?

    That’s two questions, but you know what I mean...

    Read the rest at the blog!

    _________________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    Our Movement Practice Resource Page

    _________________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    _________________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.


    REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing Feb 29, 2024
    Show notes

    Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.

    This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.

    ____________________

    🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

    You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

    THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills

    TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable

    TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better

    BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice

    Josh Waitzkin on Beginner’s Mind, Self-Actualization, and Advice from Your Future Self | The Tim Ferriss Show

    The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin

    ____________________

    🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    ____________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    ____________________

    📚CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Theme

    (0:37) Intro

    (2:29) Topic Description

    (4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities

    (8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better

    (12:00) Observation and Building Awareness

    (17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement

    (19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred

    (24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful

    (32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement

    (39:58) Self Expression via Movement

    (43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight

    (51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps

    (55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss

    (01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence

    (01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort

    (01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort

    (01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself

    (01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away

    (01:13:54) Outro


    EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2) Feb 22, 2024
    Show notes

    Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.

    ____________________

    EXPLORE FURTHER

    Our entire movement skills resource library

    Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode

    Follow Rob on Instagram

    Check out The Perception & Action Podcast

    Check out Rob's books:

    How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills

    Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship

    ____________________

    SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    ____________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    ____________________

    CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Intro

    (2:00) Guest Introduction

    (2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories

    (7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides

    (9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods

    (11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing

    (18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards

    (20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach

    (23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching

    (25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example

    (28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing

    (30:23) Perception and Action Coupling

    (33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders

    (35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?

    (37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill

    (40:45) Wrap Up


    EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1) Feb 15, 2024
    Show notes

    Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.

    ____________________

    EXPLORE FURTHER

    Our entire movement skills resource library

    Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode

    Follow Rob on Instagram

    Check out The Perception & Action Podcast

    Check out Rob's books:

    How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills

    Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship

    ____________________

    SUPPORT + CONNECT

    Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

    Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

    Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

    Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

    ____________________

    The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

    Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

    ____________________

    CHAPTERS

    (0:00) Intro

    (1:31) Guest Introduction

    (3:20) Topic Explanation

    (5:18) Accessibility

    (6:13) Impenetrability

    (7:33) Generalizability

    (8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies

    (10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions

    (11:49) How to Make it User Friendly

    (19:34) The Value of Case Studies

    (22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables

    (24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability

    (26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?

    (30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle

    (33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports

    (37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization

    (40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism

    (43:27) Wrap Up


    Previous 1 5 6 7 8 9 41 Next

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