The Nugget Climbing Podcast

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-hueco

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.

Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:38) – Midori’s background

(00:09:08) – Long’s background

(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco

(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience

(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film

(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang

(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film

(00:28:36) – Making the film

(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known

(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film

(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film

(00:50:57) – Trash can shower

(00:55:39) – Amanda’s pad-less send

(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?

(01:01:35) – Takeaways

(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film

(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers

(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome

(01:15:15) – Don’t be afraid to try

(01:16:45) – V11 in legit

(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison

(01:20:45) – Congratulations

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training Sep 09, 2024

Show notes

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video

Become a Patron:

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The NUG:

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Crimpd:

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Rhino Skin Solutions:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal

(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking

(00:11:28) – Limiting factors

(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit

(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting

(00:19:19) – Specializing

(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength

(00:21:18) – More on specialization

(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises

(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics

(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals

(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training

(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program

(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols

(00:53:35) – When to progress weight

(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test

(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule

(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)

(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains

(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong

(01:05:29) – Repeaters

(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program

(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far

(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training

(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder

(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency

(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan

(01:35:12) – More about repeaters

(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season

(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals

(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps

(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals

(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist

(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel

(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports

(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip

(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall Sep 02, 2024

Show notes

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Check out the Tension Board 2:

tensionboard.com/nugget

Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

BetterHelp:

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:20) – Best spray walls

(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique

(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle

(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)

(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them

(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement

(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression

(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting

(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons

(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)

(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall

(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!

(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money

(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves

(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions

(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level

(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions

(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)

(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes

(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds

(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)

(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain Aug 27, 2024

Show notes

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut Videos

Become a Patron:

Rhino Skin Solutions:

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

KAYA:

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

PhysiVantage:

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

Crimpd:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-fruge

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave

(00:04:05) – Overview

(00:05:31) – Amy’s martial arts background

(00:10:21) – Confidence

(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing

(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing

(00:22:24) – How Amy’s athletic background informs her work with climbers

(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid

(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy

(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine

(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine

(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle

(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine

(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference

(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues

(01:01:15) – Finding a provider

(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain

(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy

(01:10:23) – Pain is protective

(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset

(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right

(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy

(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences

(01:29:26) – Another client success story

(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle

(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket

(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts

(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog

(01:54:42) – Wrap up

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board Aug 19, 2024

Show notes

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Crimpd:

Or download the Crimpd app.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

BetterHelp:

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Become a Patron:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience

(00:05:42) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)

(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power

(00:10:21) – Steven’s Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)

(00:11:39) – Example board session formats

(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse’s 3x3 session

(00:15:32) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)

(00:22:44) – Steven’s Tip #2: Don’t be afraid to break the rules

(00:25:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard

(00:29:32) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time

(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching

(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)

(00:34:01) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing

(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)

(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2

(00:44:32) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously

(00:47:49) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs

(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants

(00:50:39) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much too fast

(00:53:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing

(00:54:44) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing

(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I’m board training a lot

(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things

(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength

(01:00:38) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff Aug 19, 2024

Show notes

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon.

Listen to Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest Aug 12, 2024

Show notes

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut Video

Become a Patron:

KAYA:

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

PhysiVantage:

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

Rhino Skin Solutions:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactions

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics

(00:08:57) – Overall reaction

(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination

(00:13:59) – Men’s final boulder 1

(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men’s semifinal

(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert

(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA

(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations

(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing

(00:30:28) – Speed recap

(00:35:40) – Heartbreak

(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy

(00:45:58) – Jakob’s point deduction in bouldering

(00:47:12) – Men’s final boulder 3

(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku

(00:53:03) – What Toby’s gold means for the GB Team

(00:55:41) – Colin on men’s final boulder 4

(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women’s semifinal

(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times

(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou

(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret

(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful

(01:28:24) – Women’s top 3

(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?

(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors

(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing

(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges

(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?

(01:54:39) – Wrap up

EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win Aug 05, 2024

Show notes

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut Video

Become a Patron:

physivantage.com/discount/NUG20

PhysiVantage:

Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!

BetterHelp:

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

Crimpd:

greenchef.com/nuggetclass

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

Green Chef:

Use code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossman

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:46) – Natalia’s parents

(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish

(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing

(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism

(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022

(00:19:58) – The hardest year

(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body

(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies

(00:28:46) – Studying psychology

(00:31:04) – Finding balance

(00:37:10) – “It’s not always the strongest person who wins.”

(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?

(00:39:51) – Setters’ influence on comps

(00:42:08) – Natalia’s leadup to the Olympics

(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight

(00:50:45) – Don’t be ashamed to ask for help

(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends

(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals

(01:01:54) – Freezing

(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn’t like rituals

(01:08:11) – Competition underwear

(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions

(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture

(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions

(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment

(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych

(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons

EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals Jul 29, 2024

Show notes

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

Check out the Tension Board 2!

tensionboard.com/nugget

Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!

Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Tindeq!

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

Check out KAYA!

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffy

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math

(00:06:32) – Mom & dad

(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC

(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics

(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring

(00:20:00) – The format for Paris

(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland

(00:28:05) – Youth comps

(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality

(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate

(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe

(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno

(00:43:52) – Coordination

(00:49:13) – Lead training

(00:52:22) – Comp grades

(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him

(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose

(01:04:58) – His first open comp

(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle

(01:16:18) – Letting off steam

(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13

(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16

(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals

(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions

(01:47:45) – Wrap up

EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records Jul 22, 2024

Show notes

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut Video

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

Check out Crimpd!

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!