Show notes
This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team
Nuggets:
[Chrissy Vadovszki]
1:37 – Introduction
1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles
3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending
6:17 – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects
8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes
9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire
10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants
[Jonathan Siegrist]
12:13 – Introduction
12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery
19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard
22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure
24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend
[Ken Klein]
26:12 – Introduction
27:06 – Coffee for breakfast
29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”
30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing
33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard
34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves
38:09 – The One-Touch drill
40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown
41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing
44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs
48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard
51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load
52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove
54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals
56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.”
1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions
1:04:28 – Owning the weight
[Carly Cain]
1:05:54 – Introduction
1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp
1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing
1:10:44 – Reframing
1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering
1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress
1:14:38 – Rifle!
[Alex Bridgewater]
1:15:58 – Introduction
1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves
1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence
1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight
1:20:47 – Positivity
1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person
1:23:59 – “To the death.”
1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard
[Kathryn Perkinson]
1:27:37 – Introduction
1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves
1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team
1:30:06 – Philosophy
1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp
1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach
1:33:02 – A helpful reminder
1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.”
1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.”
[Charlie Manganiello]
1:36:43 – Introduction
1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.”
1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely
1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away
1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.”
[Amanda Sempert]
1:48:07 – Introduction
1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links
1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank
1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues
1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension
1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training
[Outro]
2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast
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