The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Latest Episodes:

EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard Apr 14, 2026

Show notes

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, a new 4-part documentary series now streaming on HBO Max about Dean Potter, which shares the full story of Dean in all of his human complexity—as a visionary, climbing legend, and a tormented soul.

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Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/peter-mortimer

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:21) – Peter’s film career

(00:11:54) – Hustling

(00:15:28) – The Dark Wizard

(00:31:14) – Inside Dean’s mind

(00:38:34) – Dean’s rivalry with Alex Honnold

(00:49:42) – Everything on the table

(00:51:25) – Where to watch

(00:52:34) – Where to follow Peter

EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency Apr 07, 2026

Show notes

Dave Thompson is a 5.14 and V14 first ascentionist, alpinist, and coach for Evoke Endurance. We talked about his early climbing in the North Cascade mountains of Washington State, doing the first ascent of some of the best hard boulders in Leavenworth (Beautification, God is in the Details, The Teacup), how he got so strong, how to apply your strength on the wall, the challenges of endurance training in climbing, and more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-thompson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:29) – Dave’s path to rock climbing

(00:07:31) – Bob Buckley

(00:10:42) – The Teacup FA

(00:14:54) – Dave’s coaching philosophy

(00:25:53) – How Dave got up to V14

(00:37:05) – A way of moving

(00:43:19) – How to improve your gym sessions

(00:48:11) – Training

(00:55:54) – Dave’s climbing and coaching

(00:58:53) – Dave coaches me on The Teacup

(01:02:48) – FAs in the Methow Valley

(01:06:59) – FAs in Leavenworth

(01:11:16) – How strong can adults get at climbing?

(01:13:18) – Personal agency

(01:20:34) – Catching a wave

(01:23:46) – Bouldering efficiency session

(01:30:32) – Evoke success

(01:36:47) – Training for sport climbing

(01:43:25) – Not thinking

(01:44:17) – How to connect with Dave

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics Mar 23, 2026

Show notes

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:38) – Winter Olympics

(00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris

(00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris

(00:25:50) – LA Olympics

(00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living

(00:34:49) – Building a following in China

(00:38:40) – Different speed formats

(00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League

(00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing

(01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc

(01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools

(01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma

(01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing

(01:32:08) – The potential of speed

(01:38:43) – Speed Classic

(01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule

(01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women

(01:47:33) – Hobbies & books

(01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals

(01:52:08) – Airport stoicism

(01:53:34) – Where to find Sam

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers Mar 09, 2026

Show notes

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the other side of the veil, having her arms sewn together, what climbing was like before and after the accident, skin graft DNA, the healing process of writing Climbing Through, and much more. You can learn more about Melissa at melissaistrong.com

Buy Her Book:

Climbing Through: A Courageous Story of Grit, Healing, and Second Chances by Melissa Strong

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/melissa-strong

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:40) – Melissa’s hands

(00:04:54) – Life before her accident

(00:09:05) – The accident

(00:14:56) – The Forest & The Tunnel

(00:30:55) – Arms sewn together

(00:47:25) – Climbing before & after the accident

(00:58:29) – Skin graft DNA

(01:00:20) – The expiration date of climbing

(01:08:34) – What comes after climbing

(01:14:40) – Writing her book

(01:21:03) – What’s next

(01:24:46) – Where to buy the book

(01:26:13) – How Bird & Jim got its name

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance Feb 23, 2026

Show notes

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helped him send a 20+ move roof boulder, how to optimize your power endurance for a sport climbing trip, and much more. Buckle up for a good old-fashioned training chat.

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Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/joel-unema

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:00) – Hurricave

(00:04:37) – Dirtbike crash

(00:07:22) – Balance vs. compromise

(00:12:30) – The bigger picture

(00:16:22) – Joel’s breakthrough season

(00:22:43) – Finger Training with Tyler Nelson

(00:37:20) – Roof Training with Steve Bechtel

(00:46:51) – Ice cube moments

(00:58:58) – Hi-Low

(01:05:53) – Training for a sport climbing trip

(01:11:54) – Pacing & metabolic specificity

(01:15:45) – Training for a sport climbing trip continued

(01:18:10) – Riding the rollercoaster

(01:26:18) – Floor & ceiling

(01:35:55) – Achievement to experience

(01:39:00) – Strength training

(01:45:39) – My Hueco goals

(01:49:03) – Joel’s goals

(01:52:13) – The Teacup

(01:56:03) – Wrap up

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon) Feb 09, 2026

Show notes

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to discover your strengths and weaknesses, how to work backward from goals, how long it takes to make major changes in your climbing, like switching from bouldering to sport climbing, and much more. Don’t skip this episode if you are a self-coached climber.

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The NUG 👉 https://frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Key Takeaways PDF 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.squarespace.com/s/Key-Takeaways_Updated.pdf

Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randall-repost-from-patreon

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever Jan 26, 2026

Show notes

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience in the outdoors, why Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra are the G.O.A.T.s, and why climbing competitions are about to get a lot more exciting. You can learn more at proclimbing.com

The Nugget Training App 👉 http://training.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-boscoe

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:48) – The perfect phrase

(00:10:55) – Hooked on climbing

(00:15:49) – The impermanence of achievements

(00:22:56) – Commentating

(00:26:01) – Janja Garnbret & Adam Ondra

(00:30:39) – IFSC Broadcasting

(00:34:11) – Pro Climbing League

(00:45:50) – Adjustable comp walls

(00:48:44) – Can two climbs be identical?

(00:53:59) – The viewing experience

(01:02:07) – Goals for PCL

(01:06:22) – Logistical challenges

(01:11:04) – The first comp (London, Feb 28)

(01:13:06) – Broncos, Seahawks, Mariners

(01:17:29) – Wrap up

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades Jan 12, 2026

Show notes

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, developing his own style, how Fred Nicole inspired him, redefining progress with age, tips for compression problems and wide cracks, and the state of elite bouldering and cutting-edge grades.

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Support on Patreon 👉 http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-schulte

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:13) – Being an introvert

(00:13:49) – Becoming a boulderer

(00:24:56) – First ascents vs. repeating

(00:37:09) – Climbing in Yosemite

(00:47:00) – How Chris developed his climbing style

(00:51:28) – Fred Nichol's inspiration

(01:11:25) – Putting brakes on grades

(01:33:02) – What drives Chris & what progress looks like

(01:40:20) – How climbing has changed with age

(01:50:37) – The Big Island

(01:51:56) – Pairing projects

(01:55:31) – Compression climbs

(01:59:16) – Elbow tendonitis

(02:03:08) – What makes for a beautiful line

(02:08:51) – Best V10+ compression in the Front Range

(02:14:28) – Tips on wide cracks

(02:18:43) – Where Chris would like to climb next

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear Dec 15, 2025

Show notes

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the 10th Mountain Division in WW2, the breaking of Hitler’s Gothic Line, stories of mountain gorilla warfare, gear innovations that changed climbing forever, and much more. You can listen to Christian’s podcast at christianbeckwith.com

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Become a Patron:

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christian-beckwith

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:48) – Ninety-Pound Rucksack

(00:10:46) – Birth of the 10th Mountain Division

(00:22:00) – Ghosts in the trees

(00:35:23) – New ropes & belay techniques

(00:49:45) – Boots

(00:54:00) – New vs. old climbing gear

(00:57:49) – The Ninety-Pound Rucksack Challenge

(01:05:35) – Breaking Hitler’s Gothic Line

(01:19:18) – Coal to diamond

(01:25:05) – Writing the story of the 10th

(01:34:32) – Teaching GIs to climb

(01:41:45) – What’s next for this story

(01:47:30) – Wrap up

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record Dec 01, 2025

Show notes

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter Attia, her health routines, training for a world record in grip strength, balance training, rediscovering art, and much more.

The Nugget Training App | 14 Day Free Trial

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The GRINDS Program | FREE Finger Training PDF

thenuggetclimbing.com/grinds

The NUG | Portable Hangboard

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)

rungne.info/nugget

And use code “NUGGET" for 10% off and code "SHIPPINGNUGGETS" for free shipping.