An interview podcast about historic places for history lovers and travel enthusiasts.
Stephanie Craig is a history and travel blogger. She travels full-time and writes at historyfangirl.com.
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An interview podcast about historic places for history lovers and travel enthusiasts.
Stephanie Craig is a history and travel blogger. She travels full-time and writes at historyfangirl.com.
The former Republic of Yugoslavia, and specifically the city of Belgrade, occupies a dark space in our collective memory. The Civil War that broke out there in the 1990s, and the ethnic cleansing that ensued, serves as a crossroads between the past and what’s going on today. My guest today is Alex Cruikshanks, the host of the History of Yugoslavia podcast, and we talk about the rise of Belgrade, how it went from being a Serbian backwater to the capital of Yugoslavia, how the country managed to do so well under Communist rule, and what happened when everything came crashing down.
The beginnings of BelgradeBelgrade first came to prominence as a fortress city for the Roman Empire. As Alex tells me, it’s position along the Danube meant that the river formed a southern border of the empire, with Belgrade as the fortification of that border. And that would be the case for years no matter what empire took control of the city. Which, of course, is a far cry from the Belgrade today, which stands in the center of Serbia. And because it was a military city, it was falling to warring countries constantly. So that means that up until the Serbian uprising against the Ottomans in 1804, it was actually a sparsely populated city.
Serbia’s role in kickstarting World War IAlex talked about the different efforts to unify the various people in the Balkans into one Slavic state, though the various groups couldn’t exactly agree on what that looked like, And when Austria annexed Bosnia in 1908, Serbia saw that as taking what belonged to them. In fact, Gavrilo Princip, the man who assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand was a member of the Yugoslavist organization Young Bosnia, which was supported by the Black Hand, the secret Serbian military group. Ferdinand’s assassination in Sarajevo led Austria-Hungary to declare war against Serbia, which kickstarted World War I, when each sides allies got involved.
How Yugoslavia made its own version of socialismWhile under Communist rule, most Eastern European countries had a state-run economy. But Yugoslavia departed from that a bit, where companies, owned by their employees, ran independently. So it was a kind of market system, but also a spin on socialism, which allowed for things like competition, and allowed for Yugoslavia’s economy to grow in ways other countries’ couldn’t. Politically, Yugoslavia also broke away from the Eastern Bloc in 1948, occupying a middle ground both economically and politically between the United States and the USSR. But of course, as Alex and I discuss, that prosperity doesn’t last, and as we head into the 1980s, Serbia is headed for an ethnic war.
Slobodan Milosevic and a violent turnThe late 1980s and 1990s were a dark time for the city and Yugoslavia in general. As Alex tells me, the infamous Slobodan Milosevic rose to power on a wave of nationalism that he, essentially, adopted to advance his own career. The first province of Yugoslavia to peel away was Slovenia, which Milosevic didn’t fight to keep because the Serbian population was smaller than in other areas. But as we know now, Yugoslavia was coming apart, and the ensuing war is one of the darkest conflicts of our recent history. Alex walks us through what happened as chaos broke out, and what that time means for Serbia and Belgrade today.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/belgrade-rise-white-city/
The Salem Witch Trials are one of the most (in)famous events in American history. There are plays, movies and books about it, and no American schoolkid made it to junior high without learning about them. But did you know that there were actually witch trials held about 30 miles to the south of Salem, in Boston? My guest today is Nancy Mades-Byrd, host of The Witch Hunt Podcast, who lives in Salem, and who has studied the period her entire life. Nancy tells me about what happened in the Boston Witch Trials, why they maybe didn’t capture the national imagination in the same way, and what influence they had on the little town to its north.
The story of Goody GloverThe most famous witch trial in Boston happened in the city’s North End, now beloved by tourists and Bostonians alike for its Italian culture. But in the 17th century, when Boston was a Puritan theocracy, witch trials were not uncommon. The last and most famous victim to be hanged was an Irish Catholic woman named Ann Goody Glover, who died on November 16, 1688. Glover, a widow, had been deported from Ireland to Barbados with her daughter, expelled by Cromwell during his occupation of Ireland, and then eventually made her way to Boston. She and her daughter worked as servants in the home of John Goodwin, neither of them speaking English (They were Gaelic). That played a huge part in Goody Glover’s tragic story, as did the treatment of the Irish in Boston at the time. As Nancy told me, “The only thing Boston hated more than a witch was a Catholic.”
What does a doctor prescribe for witchcraft affliction?Goody Glover’s downfall all began when the Goodwin children began coming down with bizarre symptoms. They were having seizures, running around on all fours and making guttural noises, throwing religious books around the house. And so the family doctor diagnosed them with the 100% legitimate medical condition of witchcraft affliction. And while we may think of witchcraft accusations as common because of their historical prominence, Nancy told me only 80 people were accused of witchcraft in the 17th century, most of them in Connecticut. But even though not too many people were executed for witchcraft, everyone still believed in witches, so the doctor’s diagnosis wasn’t too beyond the pale. And there was even a prescription for those under the spell of a witch: fasting and prayer.
The Boston Witch Trials and Cotton MatherA figure who would be made famous for his role in the Salem Witch Trials, Rev. Cotton Mather, took an active interest in Ann Glover’s case as well. He took the 13-year-old daughter Martha into his home to study her condition, and she’s the one to finger Ann as the one who’s afflicting her. And as Nancy tells me, Ann didn’t have much of a chance, given the language barrier. Cotton Mather then went on to write a book about the trial, which became a 17th-century bestseller, and almost certainly would have become a well-known tale in Salem. But Nancy says the Salem girls weren’t simply copying the Goodwin children. Historians now believe both groups of kids were suffering from something called mass psychogenic disorder, a sort of group mental illness that has popped up throughout history.
Half-Hanged Mary and other scapegoatsThe Salem Witch Trials were of course the most famous and most extensive, with Nancy noting that some 200 people were accused of being witches, but Boston and Salem weren’t the only places suffering from witch hysteria. Nancy talks about the story of Half-Hanged Mary in Connecticut, and what was happening in Europe, where as many as 60,000 people may have been killed as accused witches between 1630 and 1660. Nancy is so knowledgeable about this slice of history, and I highly recommend everyone check out her Witch Hunt Podcast. As this episode proves, there’s so much left to learn about a time in history we all studied in school.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/boston-witch-trials/
For American history buffs, the Civil War can feel like covered ground. But if you put aside the big battles and turning points, there are still so many smaller, fascinating stories deserving to be told. And there truly is no one better to dig into those lesser-known stories than my guest, CEO of Atlas Obscura David Plotz, whom you may also know as the co-host of the Slate Political Gabfest. In this episode, we talk about how the city of Washington D.C. defended itself during the Civil War, why it built dozens of forts around its perimeter, and why those forts are now in ruins. It’s a huge honor to have David on the show today, and I can’t wait for you to hear it.
The hidden history of Washington D.C.’s fortsDavid told me he first got interested in the forts the capital when he went on a bike ride with his daughter down a path he’d never gone down before. And while pedaling around, he noticed that all of the areas they were biking through were named “Fort” something. And when he looked at a map, he realized that all of the areas arranged in a circle around the capital were named for Civil War defenses. And then later, on a hike with his family, he discovered the remains of Fort Derussy out in the middle of the woods. You can still see it today, the moat, the high earthen walls (David mentioned he and his family played capture the flag there for his wife’s birthday). As David says it’s a magical place now, but we dig into why Fort Derussy was built in the first place, and how it and the other forts came to be forgotten.
Defending the capitalThe union built 68 forts in Washington, D.C., most of them between 1860 and 1863. As David points out, the capital of the union was actually in the heart of Confederate territory, so the fortification had to be extensive. And of course, while D.C. had to be defended, as David highlights, there is “strong evidence” that the building of so many forts was an attempt by the Army Corps of Engineers to show Congress how important it was and to boost its funding. It was a huge effort, considering that before the war, there was only one fort in D.C., Fort Washington, which stood fairly ineffectually in the War of 1812. As David says, D.C. was an important location not so much for military strategy, but for morale. The South didn’t want to win the North, they just wanted to force a settlement. So the Union “defended the heck out of it,” to prevent its capital from falling, and allowing the South to claim that leverage point.
The battle for Abraham Lincoln’s seatNothing much happened in Washington, D.C. for the first four years of the war. In fact, D.C. was set up largely as a hospital city to treat the Union’s wounded (and it’s where Clara Barton set up shop). In fact, David says, the forts of Washington had begun to atrophy by 1864, because there weren’t any attacks. And the soldiers stationed there weren’t the best because those were off fighting the major battles. But that year, General Robert E. Lee decides the Confederacy should take Washington, D.C., forcing out Lincoln and sweeping the presidential election to the Democrats. And so in July of that year, 15,000 cavalry came to D.C., but when confronted by the high walls of Fort Reno, decided to go a different way. Little did they know, Fort Reno was abandoned. That was just the first of a few tactical mistakes that made the next day’s battle at Fort Stevens a historic victory for the Union, but that’s not even the craziest part. You’ll want to listen to find out who made a surprise cameo.
The ruins of D.C.’s forts, and David’s favorite spotsMany of the Washington forts were on private land, so after the war was over, the owners of that land tore them down. Some ended up on public parkland, which is why David and his family could play Capture the Flag on the ruins of Fort Derussy. But as David says, though the defenses were important to protect the Union, they weren’t consecrated ground. Not a lot of people died there, there wasn’t a lot of revered battles. But these forts still clearly have a place in D.C.’s history, and along with the remaining sites, David provides a Washingtonian’s guide to the unknown history of the city. You’re not going to want to miss this.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere
For more information and photos, check out my blog post.
Visiting London can be overwhelming, with the list of must-see locations stretching as high as Big Ben. But my guest today, author Leanda de Lisle, takes us deep into a lesser-known but historically vital London locale: Banqueting House. We talked about how Banqueting House fits into the rich history of London, its famous architect Inigo Jones, and the gorgeous painting by Flemish artist Peter Paul Rubens. And because Leanda is the author of the fantastic book, The White King: Charles I, Traitor, Murderer, Martyr, you know we had to talk about Banqueting House’s as an infamous historical site: the execution of Charles I.
The origin story of Banqueting HouseBanqueting House in London is right in among many of the famous London landmarks but is easy to overlook. As Leanda told me, it was built by James I, father of Charles I, in 1619 because he needed a place to host and entertain ambassadors and foreign dignitaries. Charles I was only 19 years old at the time, but only a few years away from becoming king himself. Inigo Jones designed it in the Italian Palladian style, the first of its kind in England, with a striking appearance to greet visitors to England. The building was built of yellowish stone, through it was refaced in the 19th century with the gray stone visitors see today.
The Real Royalty of LondonThe construction of such an incredible building came at a fairly turbulent time for the Stuarts and Charles in particular. His mother had died in 1619, the same year Banqueting House was built, and not long after his brother had passed away. His sister had gone abroad to be married, so Charles was left alone in England. And there’s an odd dynamic with Charles’s father, James, having an intimate relationship with the Duke of Buckingham that was likely homosexual, and the duke trying to get in the good graces of Charles, the heir to the throne. Buckingham actually took on a mentor role for Charles, helping him as he transitioned to adulthood. And that friendship would become massively important when James died, and Charles took the throne. And given what was happening in England at the time, Charles would need to lean on that relationship heavily.
The trial of Charles IWhen Charles ascended to the throne, the Thirty Years War was already raging in Europe. As Leanda says in this episode, the war was really a fight between Catholicism and Protestantism, and the Protestants felt they were losing. Charles had some “quite conservative” ideas about how to reform the Church of England, with an emphasis on ritual. That, along with a testy relationship with his Parliament, set up the climate in which the country and its leaders were divided in their support of Charles, setting up a Civil War. Charles was eventually put on trial for treason—which was ironic at the time because technically treason could only be committed against the king—and as we know, found guilty and sentenced to death. Leanda sets the tragic scene for listeners; from Charles’s final meeting with his children to the walk to the scaffolding outside Banqueting House. It’s a dramatic story, and one you’ll want to hear from the woman who literally wrote the book about it.
Banqueting House: The setting for the high drama of Charles’s reignLeanda is full of colorful stories about Charles I and the Stuart monarchy, and the dramatic end of Charles’s life. I asked her why she set out to write a book about Charles I, and you can hear her light up as she discusses the fascinating characters of the time. We talked about Charles’s wife, Henrietta Maria, the Duke of Buckingham and someone she refers to as “the frenemy from Hell.” (You’ll have to listen to find out who that is.) The backdrop to all of this, of course, is Banqueting Hall, an underrated tourist destination, but a spot of high drama in English history, which is, of course, saying something.
Outline of This EpisodeMore at https://historyfangirl.com/banqueting-house-place-kill-king/
At this point, there aren’t too many “hidden gems” left in the world for savvy travelers and history geeks alike, but the Painted Churches of Moldavia may just be one of the last. My guest today is Ciprian Slemko, a guide with Hello Bucovina, which provides tours to the historical region that splits between the northern region of Romania, and the southern region of Ukraine. The eight churches that make up the core of the painted churches were all built in the late 15th century through the late 16th century, and provide a time capsule the rich history of the region, from the Middle Ages through communist rule all the way to today. And there’s no better tour for that trip, than Chip.
Stephen the Great’s great achievementThe Romanian king Stephen the Great first came up with the idea of building the gorgeous monasteries in his country in the 15th century. He built some 40 churches, but as Chip told me, he didn’t actually have the exterior paintings done because he was too busy warring with the Ottoman Empire every six months. It was actually his son, the Moldavian prince Petru Rares, who came up with the idea. After traveling to Florence, Italy Petru Rares wanted the churches his father built to have the same artistic grandeur. And it was this combination, the father’s devoutness, and the son’s appreciation for art, that combined to create the most impressive of all of the churches: Voronet.
Voronet: The Sistine Chapel of the EastThe crown jewel of the painted monasteries is Voronet, often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the East. Chip told me that people began calling the monastery that in the 18th century after its reputation traveled around Europe. It’s known for its deep, beautiful blue—actually called Voronet Blue—which was created using azurite and lapis lazuli rocks. An enormous fresco of the Last Judgment adorns the western exterior of the building, but there are paintings all around the church. Chip told me Petru Rares’s wanted to deepen the people’s understanding of the Bible in an age when few could read or write, so the paintings were designed to tell the stories of the Book. And each church got its own predominant color, making visiting these buildings a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Standing strong during turbulent timesWhat’s amazing about the buildings is that they’ve stood for more than 500 years, and you can still visit and appreciate their beauty. They’ve stood through the political shifts, with the land changing hands, and the many wars over the centuries. And they even stood was under communist rule. But as Chip told me, the people of Romania are survivors, and they resisted under the watch of the government, still attending church, and the Orthodox Church still held services. And it’s true that when I visited the region, not only were the people who lived there some of the nicest I’ve encountered, I could also get a sense of their devoutness. As Chip said, it’s truly a beautiful land with beautiful people.
How to See the Painted Churches of MoldaviaThe eight painted churches of Moldavia are spread throughout a large region, almost a circle of 250 kilometers, and it would take a few days to see them all. But Chip has a better plan: He’s mapped out a route that will take you to see four of the most beautiful churches, including Voronet. And you can hear how to route that trip on this episode. Of course, you won’t just want to see the churches if you go to this beautiful part of the world, and Chip lays out all of the options for what else you can do, from rafting to skiing. If you’re interested in the history of the Eastern Orthodox religion, or in seeing some of the most beautiful architecture of the Middle Ages, you’ll want to listen to this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeIf you ask most Americans about the history of their country, they’ll start somewhere around 1492, or maybe even 1776. But before the pilgrims and before John Hancock, of course there were large, thriving civilizations of Native Americans. One of the most notable communities was in Southern Illinois, not too far from St. Louis: Cahokia, a Mississippian community of some 10-20,000 Indians, with perhaps twice as many living around the urban area. Who were the people who lived there? What have archaeologists discovered about their culture? To answer these questions, I chatted with Bill Iseminger, assistant site manager at Cahokia Mounds and the man who literally wrote the book on the historical site.
Cahokia Mounds: The largest city you never heard ofAccording to Bill, Cahokia Mounds was the largest prehistoric Indian community in America. The first signs of civilization date it to around 1050 AD, and the city thrived for about 150 years. Cahokia proper comprised of six square miles with more than 120 mounds. Bill first came to the site in the late 1960s, when he was finishing up his master’s degree, and received an offer to assist on a dig. He started digging, and never really stopped, and the archaeological site is still active with excavations just about every summer. And the artifacts they’ve found there has profoundly influenced what we know and think about ancient American Indian cultures today.
The city at the center of it allThe Cahokia tribes flourished largely thanks to the tremendous natural resources at hand. The site sits at the confluence of the Mississippi, Missouri and Illinois rivers, meaning the soil was rich for agriculture, and transportation made trading with other tribes easy. Bill told me they’ve found seashells from the Gulf of Mexico and arrowheads from Indiana. In fact, he told me that one presumed leader of Cahokia was buried with more than 1,000 arrowheads, with materials and styles from across America, signaling that perhaps tribes from all over paid tribute to the leader. We don’t know much about some aspects of their culture because they didn’t have a written language, but Bill and his colleagues have been unearthing mysteries with every dig.
The size and scope of CahokiaThe historical landscape of Cahokia is fascinating. Monks Mound, the largest pre-Columbian earthen structure in North or South America, stands 100 feet tall and stretches 14 acres. The people who lived there would have had to move 22 million cubic feet of Earth to make such a structure. They also constructed “woodhenges,” circular monuments made of timber, that would have helped them track the calendar—solstices and equinoxes, but their own important dates as well. And to defend their city, they built huge stockade walls, made up of as many as 20,000 logs cut from thousands of trees. We know because of the size of the houses that the Mississippians who lived in Cahokia largely stuck to the nuclear family structure. But the society was very hierarchical. Likely, whether you lived inside or outside the stockade said something of your status. So why then, if Cahokia was so well protected and on such fertile land, did the city eventually come to an end? I’ll let Bill fill you in on that.
The unfolding legacy of the Cahokia MoundsToday, Cahokia remains one of the richest archaeological sites in North America, and one I highly recommend you add to your list to visit. If you plan your trip right, you can even help with an excavation, either doing the actual digging or just cleaning off the findings. The Cahokia Mounds are incredible monuments to the prominence and sophistication of those early American Indian civilizations. So why don’t more people know about them? As Bill jokes, “There’s something about piles of earth that’s not as exciting to people as piles of stone.” But I think that’s something that will change for anyone who tunes into this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeThough it may seem like Central Park has always been a landmark for visitors and native New Yorkers alike, that’s not actually the case. The park, like much of the city, was very carefully mapped and planned out. But unlike the rest of the city, which was aligned to a strict and orderly grid, Central Park was designed to be wild: To mimic the untouched wilderness in other parts of America. Why was the park designed this way, how did its designers create such an unusual urban space, and what has caused the ebbs and flows of America’s most famous park over the decades since? There’s only one guy who could answer these questions: Ariel Viera of The Urbanist.
From Swamp to Central ParkAriel is well known for merging the old and the new, conducting his deep dives in the history of cities via Facebook Live. And that’s where this episode is actually taken from, our chat on the platform. Ariel told me about how, when the park was being conceived, it wasn’t initially planned for its current location. City officials thought about building the park along the East River, but then were afraid that many couldn’t make the trip to visit. But before it became a park, it had, as Ariel tells us, a few shantytowns, and actually a thriving, self-sufficient African-American neighborhood called Seneca Village. How did the swampy, rocky land become a famous urban oasis? And what happened to the people who lived there?
Central Park’s ArchitectsThe city held a competition to design the park, and Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux won for their unusual, innovative design. While New York wanted to differentiate itself from major cities like London, which had small, mannered parks, Olmsted and Vaux had a wholly unique vision. They wanted to create a wild space akin to recreating the Adirondacks in the middle of the city. “These two guys blew people’s minds,” Ariel told me. And of course, other cities began hiring Olmsted and Vaux to build parks for them, as well, and they went on to design more than 700 parks around the country.
From Oasis to Eyesore: What Happened to Central Park?If you’re like me and grew up at a time when Central Park was considered an unsafe part of the city, then you may be surprised to see what it’s become today: A beautiful tourist destination. Ariel took me through the park’s topsy-turvy history, from the mob hits that would take place in the 1920s, to the eventual closing off of the Ramble Cave, because of all of the crimes committed in the remote part of the park. The trouble extended up through the 70s and 80s, until the Central Park Conservancy was founded and began raising funds to help restore and maintain the park. Ariel has a lot of stories about what happened in the park, and how it shifted over the years, and you’re going to want to hear them.
Five Central Park Must-SeesOf course, today the park is a completely different place, the most visited park in the world, with some 29 million visitors annually, according to Ariel. He gives us his five must-see destinations for visitors to the park, and while I won’t give all of them away here, he does shout out the beautiful Bethesda Terrace and eases my mind about whether it’s cool to hop in a rowboat around the park. Ariel is full of insight and enthusiasm for the most prominent park in the States, and if you’re like me, and love the nitty-gritty details of urban history, this episode is a must-listen.
Outline of This EpisodeTraveling throughout Europe, you can find the legacy of the Ottoman Empire just about everywhere. But if you want to experience a place that has lived through the ebbs and flows of the empire, and connects us through more than 500 years of history, you need to visit the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. My guest on today’s show is Chris Mitchell, of the travelingmitch blog, who until recently lived in Istanbul, and knows his way around its landmarks. As Chris told me, while some things have changed about the giant shopping district, many things haven’t. And if you want to learn about a country, especially a country as rich in customs and commerce as Turkey, you head to the bazaar.
The Grand Bazaar’s Early DaysChris told me the Grand Bazaar was first built in 1455 and was really up and running the 1460s. Known as the “House of Gems,” the giant, covered warehouse became home to 3,000 vendors (not too far off from the 4,000 that populate the spot today). The Bazaar was the creation of Mehmet II, the emperor in the mid-15th century, who saw the opening of the warehouse as a means to raise money for the Hagia Sophia, the place of worship nearby. The bazaar attracted interested parties from all across Europe, and helped establish Turkey as a center for commerce and trade, as manufacturers, traders and various trade guilds sprang up around it. There were (and still are) mosques in the warehouse, as well.
The Grandness of the Grand BazaarThe 30-hectare space contains two bedestens, or covered markets, the first one being built shortly after the first, once they saw how quickly the Bazaar was expanding. There are 18 gates to enter, and 61 streets inside. As Chris told me, the Bazaar became more than a market, it became a symbol of Ottoman control and a testament to the empire’s reach. There were goods available there that simply weren’t elsewhere, and it became fashionable around Europe to have something from the Ottoman Empire. But, as the Ottoman Empire’s influence began to wane, and it began to lose control of lands across Europe, that was reflected in the commerce happening inside the bedestens.
The Grand Bazaar in the 20th CenturyAfter World War II, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk became the founder and first president of the Republic of Turkey. He pushed for Turkey to become a secular nation, one that put more emphasis on research and development, and—as Chris said—aimed to catch up with its European neighbors. But Atatürk recognized the need to honor the history of the Ottoman Empire, so he had to walk a fine line. He saw many of the structures from the past were important to the country’s future, so even as he pushed for the modernization of the country, he preserved its heritage. All of which helped make the Grand Bazaar the destination it is today.
Traveling to the Grand BazaarAs Chris told me, in 2014 more than 400,000 visitors a day passed through the gates of the Grand Bazaar. That number has likely dipped, with a tightening on tourism to Turkey. But Chris gave listeners great tips on other destinations around the Bazaar and around the city, so if you can get a visa, it’s worth making a trip to the bustling shopping area. “Make sure your haggling skills are sharp,” Chris says, and be ready to consume more chai tea than you thought humanly possible. Because this beautiful, historic, teeming shopping district is a living reminder of the grandness of the Ottoman Empire.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card! To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/istanbuls-grand-bazaar/. The contest ends Sunday, November 5 at midnight.
Connect With StephanieWe all know the basic story of the Allied Forces storming the Beaches of Normandy in World War II. It’s one of the most dramatic and harrowing events in modern warfare. But my brain couldn’t comprehend the size and scale of the allied forces’ operation, and the sheer number of casualties taken on those beaches of France. I had the honor of traveling to Normandy with Liberation Route Europe, a nonprofit that helps travelers interested in history connect with savvy tour leaders, and which helps celebrate the history of this amazing part of the world. And I had the even greater honor of interviewing Jory Brentjens, a historian for Liberation Route Europe, and I think even if you know the story of D-Day, you’re going to want to hear what Jory has to say.
Before the Storm: Planning in Advance of Hitting the Beaches of NormandyAs Jory tells it, such an enormous operation took a herculean effort by the Allied Forces to plan. There were more than a million people assembled in Southern England, readying for the invasion. General Dwight D. Eisenhower was in charge, but the Allies were truly allied, British officers were in charge of both the air and naval wings of the operation. The Allies had set up decoy missions, along the Dutch border and elsewhere, to try to throw the Germans off the scent. Meanwhile, the German army was having difficulty, with no single commander in charge of the defense. But that doesn’t mean they didn’t have deadly preparations in place.
Why the Beaches of NormandyThe Allies could have tried to take back France via a number of routes, but Normandy provided several factors that won the day. The generals were particularly concerned about the weather, which could hamper the operation, and Normandy is somewhat sheltered. The area was also fairly close to England, within reach of Allied fighter jets, and German defenses were not as complete as in other regions. The Germans anticipated a raid in Calais, thanks to its proximity to England, so the forces decided to strike where they had a better chance of breaking through. But, as Jory tells us, and as we may have difficulty grasping, that doesn’t mean it was anything but harrowing.
D-Day: Storming the BeachThere were six beaches planned for the raid, with American forces landing on three of them. Jory and I discussed the famous story of John Steele, the paratrooper who landed on the spire of a church in Sainte-Mère-Église and avoided German notice. But that’s a happy story in an otherwise terrifying tale. Jory describes the scene on the beaches as “completely insane,” with German forces sinking Allied boats in the water, exploding mines on the beaches, and unleashing heavy artillery on the incoming troops. At Pointe du Hoc soldiers had to use ladders and anchors tied to the ends of ropes to scale the cliffs to secure the area, while German soldiers fired down upon them. And though the battle to secure the beaches only took a couple of days, the real battle was to secure Normandy, a fight that took months, and which Jory told me, was “hellish.”
Connecting the Past to the PresentThere is a ton of history in this episode, and Jory has a lot of fascinating details about both how the invasion was planned, and what happened on the ground. I had the great pleasure of visiting many of the historic locations around Normandy, an incredibly emotional experience as you visit the various museums, and spend time among the thousands buried in the official graveyards. The lessons of the past are never too far from us, and I couldn’t help connect the way France and Germany responsibly memorialize their past, with how America is wrestling to do the same.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a copy of Mike Duncan’s forthcoming book The Storm Before the Storm. It comes out on October 24! To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post. The contest ends Sunday, October 29 at midnight.
Connect With StephanieIf you’ve ever visited Iceland, you know the natural beauty of the planes of Thingvellir is something special. But what you may not know, is that this open field was once home to perhaps the oldest governing body of Western Civilization. That’s why this week, I chatted with Lee Accomando of The Viking Age Podcast. Lee is as entertaining as he is informative about the history of Iceland, and what makes Thingvellir such an amazing historical site.
The Thing About ThingvellirThe open-air plane of Thingvellir was the home of the Icelandic Althing, the parliamentary body that met there from 930 C.E. all the way to the 1800s. The current Althing, which meets in Reykjavik to this day, draws its history from this governmental body. At the time, the Althing would meet to settle various disputes, from arguments over land to fishing catch to—because these are Vikings we’re talking about—who killed who and whether it was justified. Initially, there were small assemblies of local leaders called “things,” but Iceland was really unique in convening a centralized body, and Lee actually does an amazing job tracing the idea back to Roman history.
History Meets Pseudo-History in ThingvellirOne of the things I love about Lee’s podcast and about talking with him is that he’s full of great stories and anecdotes from the Viking age. I asked Lee how the Vikings came to land on Iceland, and he told me there is no official account, but he did tell me his favorite “fake account” that involves one ship captain’s deep trust of ravens. But we do know that after political upheaval in Scandinavia, ships set sail and likely were blown off course, bringing Vikings to the island sometime around 800 C.E. By the 920s, somewhere between 10,000 to 30,000 people had emigrated there, and as Lee told me, there needed to be some way to bring those people together.
We Have Soap Operas, the Vikings Had SagasOne of the fascinating aspects of Viking culture in Iceland is that there was an explosion of literacy in the 1200s which led to the scripting of the Viking Sagas, what Lee calls “amazing works of literature and pseudo-history.” He says the books were essentially “nostalgic” literature about the ancestors who had come to Iceland. There are fishing disputes, love affairs, divorces, revenge plots. I had to ask Lee for his favorite story from those tales, and while I won’t spoil it here, I will say it involves someone getting locked in a sheep shed.
Tracing the Vikings of Thingvellir to the PresentIceland went through tremendous upheaval in the ensuing centuries, from converting from a pagan country to a Christian one, to falling under the rule of the Danish monarch to eventually declaring its independence. Iceland was granted its status as a sovereign state in 1918, but it wasn’t until World War II that it became a truly independent nation. The planes of Thingvellir, and the Althing that still meets to this day, continue to connect the country to its Viking heritage, and Lee weaves a fascinating story as he helps us make that connection.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card. To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/icelands-thingvellir/
Contest closes on October 22, 2017 at midnight EST.
Connect With Stephanie