An interview podcast about historic places for history lovers and travel enthusiasts.
Stephanie Craig is a history and travel blogger. She travels full-time and writes at historyfangirl.com.
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An interview podcast about historic places for history lovers and travel enthusiasts.
Stephanie Craig is a history and travel blogger. She travels full-time and writes at historyfangirl.com.
In this episode, I chat with Daniel Hoyer from Seshat about looking at history through a statistical lens. We discuss the Seshat Databank and his new book, Figuring Out the Past: The 3,495 Vital Statistics that Explain World History.
Let's Stay in Touch!
You can join the conversation in our Facebook Group, the History Fangirl Podcast Community, or come say hi on Instagram!
My Travel Websites
History Fangirl - Culture & History Travel Guides in the USA, Europe, and Beyond
Sofia Adventures - Balkan Travel Blog
Oklahoma Wonders - Travel in Oklahoma & Route 66
The theme music for the podcast is "Places Unseen" by Lee Rosevere.
In this episode, I chat with Eric Halsey from the Bulgarian History Podcast about the hidden gem of Veliko Tarnovo. This once-important Bulgarian city is one of the most picturesque in Europe, and yet not many outside of Bulgaria know much about it. You can find Eric's podcast here.
Let's Stay in Touch!
You can join the conversation in our Facebook Group, the History Fangirl Podcast Community, or come say hi on Instagram!
More on Veliko Tarnovo:
If you are planning to visit Veliko Tarnovo, here are our Veliko Tarnovo travel guides.
My Travel Websites
History Fangirl - Culture & History Travel Guides in the USA, Europe, and Beyond
Sofia Adventures - Balkan Travel Blog
Oklahoma Wonders - Travel in Oklahoma & Route 66
The theme music for the podcast is "Places Unseen" by Lee Rosevere.
Yes, it's been two years, and for that I'm very sorry! But I'm back with new episodes next week. In the meantime, enjoy this interview on Chernobyl I did a few weeks ago with Darmon Richter, the author of the new book Chernobyl, a Stalker's Guide.
The theme music for the podcast is "Places Unseen" by Lee Rosevere.
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we talk with renowned travel blogger Megan Starr, whom we spoke to a few months back about Kiev. But this week, we’re talking in person, in Kazakhstan, at the site of the memorial to the Great Kazakh Famine, a historical event which not many people know about in the West but looms large in the history of Kazakhstan. And, we both have recovered from the Kazakhstani flu that has been going around, so we’re ready to get rolling!
The Great FamineWe’ve talked before about the Great Famine in Ukraine, but similar tragedies hit all over the Soviet region. There were actually two terrible genocides in the region. In 1919, many Kazakhs were killed by a drought. But due to the forced farm collectivization of the nomadic peoples in the region from 1931 to 1933, the Soviet Union ended up killing nearly 2 million people. It’s a terrible story, one not well-known outside the region, but one that everyone should hear.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere.
This week’s episode is something a little different. I am in Isyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan, covering the World Nomad Games, a festival of sports that’s sort of like the Olympics for nomadic peoples. The sports, though, are way more interesting than, say, basketball. My first interview this episode is with the co-captain of the American Kok Boru team (I’ll explain later), and the sports include horse archery, tug of war, arm wrestling and more. I have a whole slew of interviews in this week’s episode, and next week we’ll dive into what makes these games so special, and what importance the history of this event has to the people who play in it.
The Blue WolfMy first interview is with Garrett, the co-captain of the U.S.’s Kok Boru team, who describes playing in these games as a “wild ride.” Kok Boru is the national sport of Kyrgyzstan, and translates to the Blue Wolf. As Garrett says, it’s not a game, it’s “one of the most intense competitions” you could ever take part in. As he says, it’s essentially rugby on horseback, but it dates back centuries in Kyrgyzstan, and stems from a time when men would chase away wolves who were attacking livestock, and pick up the wolves and toss them from one horse to the other. So yeah, a little different than baseball.
World-Class MangalaOne of the many things that distinguish the World Nomad Games from the Olympics is that it includes intellectual games. Imagine if chess was in the Olympics, that’s the place that the Turkish game of Mangala (mancala in the U.S.) holds in the World Nomad Games. As the competitor I interviewed said, he was drawn to the sport because he could sit down. I also had the opportunity to speak with the president of the Turkish horse archery federation.
Next-Level Tug-of-WarOne of the American teams I was able to interview were a man and woman who compete in mas wrestling, a sort of tug-of-war competition between two people who grasp a stick, and try to pull their opponent over a board. I also was able to chat with Kyle, a Peace Corps volunteer in Kyrgyzstan, about the cultural traditions of the country. One of the fascinating aspects of the culture that Kyle mentioned is that younger men must approach an older gentleman they encounter and introduce themselves, as a sign of respect. I also got to speak with Ashley, another Peace Corps volunteer, who is actually Kyle’s teammate on the American arm-wrestling team.
We Are the World (Nomad Games)The World Nomad Games are an incredible experience, filled with unbelievable characters (as you can tell from my interviews) from all across the country. Whether it’s the Scottish caber tosser who’s skeptical of Americans’ tartans or the Pakistani representative calling for World Peace, it’s an amazing competition. Make sure you tune in next week as we dig into the history of the games.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-world-nomad-games/
Last year, Alex Cruikshanks came on the show to talk about Belgrade, a really detailed and wide-ranging episode. And we had such a great time, he’s back again to talk about more recent history in Yugoslavia, specifically the brutal massacre at Srebrenica. Yugoslavia, as anyone who was alive in the 1990s knows, was falling apart in the early part of the decade. The Bosnian War was raging, and in 1995, some 8,000 Bosniaks, mostly men and boys, were killed. What led up to this genocide, how could something like this happen in our recent history, and what has been the fallout since? Alex is the perfect person to about this, not just because of his podcast, but he just made a trip to participate in a peace march in the region.
How the massacre beganAs Alex told me this episode, in the late 1980s, a sort of coalition-by-default formed as Yugoslavia held elections, as the parties that represented the various ethnic factions of the country won a majority. But they soon realized that all that was holding them together was an anti-Communist stance, so the coalition immediately began dissolving. In a referendum in 1992, Bosnians voted for independence, and in the Spring and Summer of 1992, Serbian nationalists begin staging coups throughout the country, placing Serbs in power, and begin massacring non-Serb populations.
Srebrenica strongholdBut while all of this was going on, there were pockets where Bosniaks were able to hold off the Serbian nationalists from taking over. One such stronghold was the small town of Srebrenica, which was able to maintain its autonomy for three years. As Alex says, it only had about 6,000 people before the war, but because so many have been killed or expelled throughout the region, it swells to an unsustainable population of 40,000. In 1993 a militia forms in Srebrenica to try to fight back, and the Serbian army takes notice, planning an invasion. But just as that was heating up, UN peacekeepers visited the town, and ended up putting a small force there, keeping the violence at bay for two years.
How the UN peacekeepers couldn’t keep the peaceBut in 1995, Slobodan Milosevic decides it’s time to try to shut down the enclaves, and he issues what becomes known as Directive 7, which orders the separation of Srebrenica from the other enclaves and “by planned and well-thought-out combat operations, create an unbearable situation of total insecurity with no hope of further survival or life for the inhabitants of Srebrenica.” That’s about as grim and awful as it gets, but as Alex says, it’s likely Milosevic was not thinking of massacre, but rather starving the residents until they give up. The Serb national army then takes UN peacekeepers as hostages to ward off UN airstrikes, and in July they begin their combat operations in earnest. Unfortunately, the Bosnian militia were not well-trained fighters, and they ended up falling back.
How the massacre happened, and what happened afterAs the Serbian army advanced, many hoped the UN would step in and be able to save the Bosniaks. But many men and boys had a feeling that if they stayed, they would be killed. So they fled, but unfortunately, the Serbs were able to ambush them. It’s a truly horrific story of ethnic cleansing that happened not that long ago. But as Alex and I discuss in this week’s episode, the Bosnian people are actually some of the most liberal and optimistic people we’ve met. It’s an incredible story, and it’s important that we never forget it.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-massacre-at-srebrenica/
Every city has that one landmark that seems like a tourist trap and practically begs you not to visit. For me, that was the CN Tower in Toronto. I didn’t go near it the first time I visited the city, and the second time, this past July, I planned to steer clear. But it turns out the joke was on me, as the CN Tower is an amazing building with a funny, competitive and ingenious bit of Canadian history. My guest today is Christopher Mitchell, who not only knows a lot about Toronto’s landmark, but is also the co-host of our new podcast, Rick Steves Over Brunch. This is a really fun episode and so Canadian you may find yourself reaching for a hockey stick afterwards.
How the CN Tower came to beIn the late 1960s and early 1970s, Toronto was growing rapidly, but the skyscrapers that were going up were all about the same height. This began messing with the communications of the city, so lawmakers decided to build something that would literally tower above the skyscrapers to allow reception through. And, as Chris says, they said, “While we’re at it, why don’t we build the largest free-standing structure on the planet?” And so they did, thumbing their noses at America in the process.
Why the Green Book was necessaryConstruction of the tower began in 1973, and once they had the functional structure down, they realized they had something that could become a true tourist destination. So they added the iconic structure on the top with the restaurant and the observation tower in 1974. A helicopter, famously named Olga, placed the needle on the top, and on April 2, 1975, the project is complete. On June 26, 1976 the top of the tower is opened to the public, and now it’s visited by somewhere between 1.5 and 2 million people a year.
Modern changes to the towerThe one place where Chris and I diverge is whether either of us would do the CN Tower’s “Edge Walk,” where visitors can walk, hands-free, around the top of the tower (while harnessed to the building, of course). It’s a popular new adventure for visitors, and if you’re a thrill-seeker, it’s worth checking out. We also talk about the enormous complex that has risen around the tower, which includes the Rogers Centre, where the Toronto Blue Jays play. We also take a very necessary side trip through what exactly constitutes Canadian cuisine (based on whether the restaurant at the top of the Tower is worth the high prices).
What else to see in TorontoAs Chris tells me, Toronto is massive, comprising 20% of Canada’s total population. Some of his suggestions for where to go in Toronto: Visit the incredible Chinatown, which is close to the CN Tower. He also recommends Kensington Market, one of the city’s hipper neighborhoods (and a good destination for anyone interested in weed tourism), and Queen Street West. He also makes a pitch to catch a Blue Jays game thanks to the incredible views if the dome is open. But be forewarned: The product on the field is, as he says, “mediocre at best.”
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-strangely-competitive-history-of-the-cn-tower
In the first half of the 20th century, the automobile became a symbol of freedom to American families. Middle-class families able to afford their own car were no longer restricted to train or bus timetables, and the great American road trip was born. But for black Americans, this new freedom collided with old hatred, prejudices and dangers. The road trip’s appeal called to everyone equally, but not everyone was treated equally. African Americans began using “the Green Book,” a guide to places that were friendly to them along their journey. In September, I met Tamiko Harvey, the travel blogger behind Passports and Grub, who actually took her daughter on a family road trip using the Green Book.
How Tomiko became interested in the Green BookTomiko and I met while touring the Civil Rights Trail in Birmingham, Alabama, where they actually have a Green Book on display there in the Civil Rights Museum. That really sparked her interest in learning more about the book, and she was able to purchase a copy on Amazon. As she says, we’re supposed to be living in a post-racial society, but of course that’s not true. So she wanted to see what it would be like traveling the Green Book today.
Why the Green Book was necessaryAs Tomiko says, black people in the early 20th century had to plan out every detail of a road trip. They had to dress a certain way, they had to be sure of what time of day they would be traveling in certain areas, and they had to know their route precisely because a wrong turn could literally be deadly. It was a really planned and methodical process that we don’t even think about now. Black motorists had to think about where they were going to eat, where they were going to get gas, where they could use a restroom. A lot of these travelers were Civil Rights activists or business travelers. Leisure travel was not as prominent as we think of it today.
“Vacation and recreation without humiliation.”The book was originally published in 1936 in New York, and as Tomiko says it became a sort of Yellow Pages for black travelers. It outlined friendly restaurants, gas stations, hotels, drug stores and barber shops that were safe during Jim Crow. It came about because Victor Green, the author, was having difficulty traveling. The book was circulated in black establishments, even in hotels and restaurants. And it was marketed with the tagline: “Vacation and recreation without humiliation.” About 15,000 copies a year were sold to black travelers. Brittany told me a great story about brothers divided over the revolution that you have to hear.
Tomiko travels the bookTomiko and her family live outside of Nashville, Tennessee, and when her daughter had to go to Orlando, Florida for a cheering competition, she decided to take the book and see what it was like to travel through those Southern states for black people in the 1930s. As she says, they often had to go an hour or two out of their way just to ensure they were going somewhere safe. A lot of the places on the routes were actually people’s homes, old gas stations or even empty lots now. She said it added something like three hours to their trip to go out of the way. Her story, and the story of the book, is so fascinating. I highly recommend checking out this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/traveling-the-green-book/
We did it! Next week will mark a full year of publishing The History Fangirl Podcast, and this week marks the 50th episode, so it felt like the right time to do a retrospective of the first 12 months of the show. My producer picked a handful of his favorite clips (it was too hard for me to pick!) from the past year, and so this episode looks back on some of the fun and fascinating stories my amazing guests have told. As we wrap up this year and focus on the next one, I do want to say that I'm blessed to have had so many smart, insightful and entertaining guests on this show. I'm a travel writer by trade and a history buff by passion, and honestly the guests that have come on have done such a great job of fueling my love of both.
I also want to say thanks to all of the listeners who have downloaded the show, reviewed it on your podcast app of choice, or sent me a note to say they enjoyed a particular episode. Putting this show out into the world was a big leap for me, and it's turned out to be one of the most rewarding experiences I've had. So thank you.
Episodes featured this weekIf you haven't heard every single episode of the show (how dare you!), and one of the clips this week interests you, you can check them all out below:
Featuring the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere.
More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/the-best-of-the-history-fangirl-podcasts-first-year/
Philadelphia is by far one of my favorite American cities. I used to live there and run a photo-a-day website there, and it’s one of the best cities to live in if you’re a history buff. On today’s episode, we talk about the amazing Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest continually lived-on residential street in the country (hard to fit that on a title belt, but still pretty cool). I had the chance to take a tour of the street with the Elfreth’s Alley Association’s Board Member Brittany Thomas. If you have an interest in early American history, this is the perfect episode for you.
The early days of Elfreth’s AlleyWhile there is a street in Florida that lays claim to the title of the oldest street in America, Elfreth’s Alley is the oldest street where people have actually lived. The first homes sprung up in 1702, and were built all the way up into the 1800s. And while the street now may appear affluent, the first residents would have lived and worked on the street, being unable to afford a home and a business elsewhere. The Port of Philadelphia was originally at the end of the street, but now there’s a wall there that butts up against I-95. The homes were built along the dirt road of Elfreth’s Alley, and while buyers have, over the years, added on and built up the original houses, their footprints remain small. It really looks, as close as a city street can, to colonial times.
The story of William PennIf you’ve never spent much time in Philadelphia, or know much about its history, you may not know that just about everything in Philadelphia goes back to a man named William Penn. The story Brittany tells me is fascinating, about how the King of England owed William Penn money, so he gave him land in the colonies, and then shipped a thorn in his side—the Quakers—over there, as well. Penn was actually good to the Native Americans who were on the land the King gave him, and he eventually decided to name the state Pennsylvania, with “sylvania,” signaling that the state was heavily forested. Brittany also tells me about a standoff between the Baltimore family and the Penn family, but you’ll have to listen to hear it.
Elfreth’s Alley in the American RevolutionOne of the fascinating aspects of Elfreth’s Alley history is the women’s history that runs throughout it. In the house next door to the building Brittany and I met in housed two seamstresses who made mantuas, sort of loose gowns that you may know from your American Girl days. (In fact, Elfreth’s Alley was saved by a woman.) Another intriguing part of life on Elfreth’s Alley is that it wasn’t exactly a hotbed of revolutionary fervor. There was conflict around independence all around the colonies, and that conflict was alive and well, right down the street from Independence Hall. Brittany told me a great story about brothers divided over the revolution that you have to hear.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/philadelphias-elfreths-alley/
One of the fascinating things about the city of Atlanta, Georgia is how often it has had to change and adapt to forces around it. Sometimes it’s gone kicking and screaming, and sometimes it’s forged its own path. Because it’s arguably undergone more major cultural and economic changes than most American cities, it’s a great opportunity to study the evolution of American life. Specifically, we’re talking today about the Ponce City Market, formerly the Sears and Roebuck building, which is a great example of how business models come and go, how commerce affects cultural life, and how businesses can impact a city by investing in the structures they will eventually leave behind. My guest today is Caroline Eubanks, a freelance travel writer whose book This is My South comes out this fall. We chat about how Sears came to Atlanta in the 1920s and what legacy its building leaves behind.
Atlanta after the Civil WarAs Caroline tells me, Atlanta has had a rocky relationship with its past. The city was notoriously burned during the Civil War, and then suffered another major fire in 1916. So when Sears & Roebuck came to town, their building was the first major structure in their chosen neighborhood. Atlanta has also not always appreciated its landmarks, tearing down many buildings that are just a few decades old to replace with new ones, so the fact that the Ponce City Market building is still around is remarkable. Atlanta was struggling for jobs after Reconstruction, so Sears coming to town in 1926 was a big deal.
What Sears meant to the SouthThe Sears business model of mail-order goods and home delivery was a huge boon to the South, where many rural communities couldn’t otherwise get access to many of the things Sears sold. So when the city was looking to attract businesses, an entrepreneur named Ivan Allen Sr. teamed up with the Chamber of Commerce and wooed Sears to Atlanta (along with another little-known company, General Motors). But the city Sears landed in was still struggling with the after-effects of the Civil War, with hard segregation between whites and blacks, race riots and more.
The decline of SearsBy the 1970s, Atlanta was experiencing what a lot of major urban areas in the U.S. saw happening: the rise of the suburbs and white flight. Where going into the city to shop at Sears was once a big part of life in the region, large shopping malls were opening in the ‘burbs, and the entire way people bought things shifted. Sears ended up closing its retail store in 1979, and then by 1987 the offices closed as well. The City of Atlanta purchased the two-million-square-foot building in 1990 to use for government offices, but they really only needed the first two floors. But then, in 2010, the city sold the building to a developer named Jamestown, who has developed huge complexes across the United States.
The Rise of Ponce City MarketIn 2013, Jamestown began developing the space and it opened a year later. Now it’s a thriving residential and commercial complex, including a world-class food hall. It’s transformed the neighborhood, of course, and it’s truly an example of what can happen if cities hold onto their landmarks and think creatively about how they can be used. And there’s more to see around the Market as well. As Caroline tells me, it’s important to check out Sweet Auburn, the area where many Civil Rights leaders grew up and came together to plan actions. This is a really fascinating chat about a place that doesn’t get a lot of attention from tourists, the American South, and I highly recommend checking out Caroline’s book when it publishes this fall.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/atlantas-ponce-city-market/
The last three weeks have been crazy, and I haven't been able to record anything new. My apologies for the delay!
As a quick explanation, I found out that I had to move out of my apartment with only ten days left in the country to deal with packing up my place before heading off for three weeks traveling around North America. This ate up all of my work time. Never fear, as new episodes will be back next week!
For today, please enjoy this interview I did for The Wonders of the World podcastabout the history of Petra and my experiences traveling there.
Episode description:
The lost city of the Nabataeans, the rock-cut city of Petra has been rightfully celebrated as a Wonder of the World, at least since that Indiana Jones movie. But the story is well worth telling. We'll talk about the Nabataeans, their caravans, and their run-ins with the Greeks, Romans, and Judeans. We'll meet Pompey the Pompous. And we'll eat Bedouin classics from underground pit ovens.
Stephanie Craig from the History Fangirl podcast shares her experiences traveling in Jordan. For such a small country, there's so much there. You will have chosen wisely to download this episode. Enjoy!
I have a new show! Rick Steves Over Brunch is a podcast where Chris Mitchell (from travelingmitch) and I break down episodes of the classic travel tv show, Rick Steve’s Europe. The show launched on April 30, 2018, and new episodes drop every other Sunday.
This is a preview episode for you guys so you can check it out. If you enjoy the show, subscribe to Rick Steves Over Brunch wherever you get your podcasts.
Wach the Episode "Copenhagen" from Rick Steves Europe here:
https://historyfangirl.com/rick-steves-copenhagen/
More Info Here:
The town of Bath in England is famous for many things. It was the setting for one of Chaucer’s most famous stories from The Canterbury Tales, “The Wife of Bath’s Tale,” it was a Georgian pleasure town and its hot springs have attracted people to it since Neolithic times. However, for most history lovers, interest in the town begins with the Roman baths and its status as one of the most fascinating Roman ruin sites in Great Britain. My guest today is David Crowther, host of the History of England Podcast. We talk about how the Romans came to Britain, why they were interested in Bath, and what happened to the town in the years since they left.
Dipping a toe in BathWhen David was a kid, he went on a school trip to Bath, and as he says, he followed the grand tradition of school kids not being interested in the subject of a field trip. But then the Bath Museum got in touch, and he went back and realized it was, in his words, “the most stunning town and the most stunning museum.” Bath is the second-most visited town in England, and David tells us why: It was built out of gorgeous yellow limestone, the environment surrounding the town is gorgeous, and it has the famous Roman baths. So as David says, it’s really several things at once, and they all recommend a visit.
Caesar declares victory, runs awayThe Romans first invaded Bath in 56 B.C., when Julius Caesar was fighting the Gauls, and many of the Gauls were escaping into Britain. David says the myth has it that Caesar invaded Bath, “realized he didn’t have the right kid, declared victory and ran away.” He says there’s a lot of truth to that myth, but regardless, Claudius came after and did the job properly. What’s interesting is that at first, Romans just shipped everything over to Bath, and it wasn’t until the third century that they truly began to make a real society and a mixed and varied economy. By the third and fourth century, the Romans start putting in a lot of work on the complex. It’s a religious complex, with a priest presiding over it. But by 420, after years of invasions, Roman Britain is, as David says, “absolutely dead.”
How the monument came to beIt’s a little strange for modern people to imagine a temple in a public bath, but the Roman baths were holy places, as well. As David tells me, the gray ruins we see now bare little resemblance to the colorful places Roman baths used to be. He provides a great picture of what you would have seen if you had prayed at the altar in, say the fourth century. The deities in that particular temple included Minerva. But what’s fascinating is that the Romans incorporated the deities into the temples. So while Minerva is a prominent Roman deity, Sulis, a Celtic goddess was also worshipped at Bath.
The many “careers” of BathWhile there was some attempt to preserve the baths, eventually the city falls to pieces, as David says, and by the time Henry I comes along, the baths are completely gone. And Bath underwent numerous transformations after that, including as the setting for one of Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. And then, in the 18th century, it became a posh spot, and that’s the city you see today when you visit. The original Roman baths were rediscovered in the 19th century, and excavation continues to this day. It sounds like an amazing place to visit, and David provides some great suggestions for where and how to see it today.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/englands-roman-baths/
When traveling, or thinking of where to visit to memorialize civil rights events and advances, it’s all too easy for straight people to forget about LGBTQ monuments. That’s partially because of the lack of proper sites memorializing LGBTQ rights. But on today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, I talk with someone who completely changed my perspective on travel. We’re talking with José Ramón Harvey of the travel blog My Normal Gay Life about the Barcelona transsexual monument in Parc de la Ciutadella, how and why it was created, and why it is unfortunately so singular.
Barcelona’s history of gay rightsAs José tells me, Barcelona was actually ahead of the curve of many European cities when it came to gay rights, even if “being ahead of the curve” can still seem so backwards. In the 1970s, for instance, it decriminalized “engaging in homosexual acts,” long before other places took those laws off the books. But in the 1990s, there weren’t many protections for trans people, and in 1991, Sonia Rescalvo, a trans woman, was murdered by six Neo-Nazis because of her gender identity.
Who was Sonia?Sonia Rescalvo was a trans woman who ran away from home when she was 16, after her family rejected her identity. She was able to work in theater for some time, but as José tells me, she had to resort to prostitution, as many trans people had to, because it was difficult for her to find work. So because of these circumstances, she was sleeping in a park at night, in a bandstand. And during this time, the Olympics were coming to Barcelona, and there was a crackdown on sex workers, making it extra difficult for someone like Sonia. The bandstand became a place where many homosexual and trans people who had been marginalized would meet and sometimes sleep at night. And it was there that six Neo-Nazis brutally attacked Sonia and two of her friends, killing her and badly injuring her friends.
How the monument came to beIn 1993 a gay liberation organization go into the Parc de la Ciutadella and place a plaque near the bandstand where the murder happened. And the authorities allowed it to stay, and for more than a decade, that’s what the monument was. Then in 2011, an official plaque is put in place by the city, and then in 2013, the bandstand is renamed in Sonia’s honor, with a new plaque to ensure visitors understand the significance of the location. The plaque specifically spells out that the bandstand is where Sonia was murdered by Neo-Nazis, and that the city of Barcelona rebukes anyone who would infringe on the rights of someone because of their gender identity.
Other LGBTQ historical sites in BarcelonaOf course, the bandstand is not the only place of historical significance for LGBTQ people in Barcelona, and José walked me through the other sites he visited during his time in the city. This is a really eye-opening episode for me, and as I said José’s approach to travel completely re-oriented my thinking on what to see when I visit a place, and the need to recognize not only LGBTQ historical sites, but important people like Sonia, whose lives continue to impact us to this day. I hope you’ll give this episode a listen.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/barcelonas-groundbreaking-transsexual-monument/
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we discuss an aspect of history that, I don’t mind saying, was a total blind spot for me. I was so honored to talk with Anna-Lisa Cox, an adjunct member of the History Department and fellow at Harvard University's Hutchins Center for African and African American Research. She’s also the author of the new book, The Bone and the Sinew of the Land, about the free African-American pioneers who helped settle American frontier. It’s a fascinating discussion about how the settlements were formed, the challenges faced by the families there, and why this almost became a part of American history lost to our country’s past.
The Lost History of Black PioneersWhen Anna-Lisa went out for her first book tour, she began to hear stories from people about their family heritage, and she discovered that she’d stumbled upon what was really the first Great Migration in American history. In the late 18th century, tens of thousands of free African-Americans headed to the Northwest Territory (what is now known as the Midwest). But why was this vital piece of American history lost? As Anna-Lisa tells me, it had a “triple-hit” against it: It took place in the Northwest Territory, which was not as well-documented as the early settlements. It concerned African-Americans, who history books have long given short shrift to, and they were rural communities as well. So the odds were stacked against these communities being remembered, but luckily Anna-Lisa has in her new book.
The families on the frontierAnna-Lisa’s research turned up more than 300 African-American farming settlements throughout the Midwest by 1850. These were communities of free African-Americans, typically made up of multiple families. I asked her to tell me some of her favorite stories, and she told me of Charles and Keziah Grier, who were brought into what eventually became Indiana, essentially enslaved. Their story is incredible: Being freed in Indiana but having nothing to their names. But Charles was a skilled farmer, and while he was freed in 1813, by 1815 he was able to buy his first 40 acres of frontier land. Keziah’s story is just as inspiring, but you’ll have to listen to the episode (or buy the book) to experience it.
The purest pioneersWhat’s so fascinating about this part of America’s history is that these settlements were populated by what Anna-Lisa calls the “purest pioneers,” meaning that they were not just moving for economic advancement, they were moving for ideological reasons. They were activists essentially, and they were looking to create a part of the country that lived up to the American ideals that all men are created equal and everyone should be granted freedom and liberty to pursue their dreams. And that’s a big part of why these settlements became important cogs in the functioning of the Underground Railroad.
Violence in the settlementsWhile the black settlers were an idealistic lot, their contemporaries did not necessarily share those views. And as Anna-Lisa told me, there was mass violence against the African-American pioneers, so much so that the Klan’s origins can be traced to the attacks on the settlers. As she says, the word “pogrom” would not be out of place in describing what happened to the purest pioneers. This is truly an important and astounding piece of American history, and I feel very lucky to have been able to spend time talking with, and learning from, Anna-Lisa about this topic.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-lost-history-of-black-pioneers/
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we talk with a woman on a quest to visit every country on the planet, Jessica Elliott of How Dare She. And this week, Jessica and I talk about Chernobyl, a word that signifies a place, a devastating catastrophe, and a cultural moment that has resonated long after the explosion of the nuclear power plant there. We talk about the early days of Chernobyl, the small city of Pripyat, and of course the infamous meltdown. Jessica has a journalists’ ear for both truth-telling and storytelling, and I think you’re really going to find this week’s episode fascinating.
The Town of PripyatMuch like the way mining towns popped up in America to house workers who went down into the mines Pripyat was essentially built to house the people who worked on the Chernobyl power plant. Kiev was 90 miles from the plant, but Pripyat was only two, and both the town and the plant were constructed in 1970. As Jessica and I discuss, the town was full of optimism as families moved there for the economic opportunity surrounding this new technology of nuclear power. Of course, in hindsight, it’s a place that was filled with optimism but suffered greatly in the end, but it was very much a boomtown, a rare thing in the Soviet Union of the time.
The Invisible EnemyWhen the plant melted down, there still tragically still wasn’t a good understanding of what that meant. As Jessica tells me, people talked of the threat of the meltdown as an “invisible enemy.” In other words the radiation wasn’t something like an enemy army or airplane coming at the townspeople, which led to a lot of people ignoring the first warnings and evacuation orders. But as Jessica tells me on this week’s episode, the catastrophe was the result of bad design, bad safety measures and bad operations. She tells us how poor handling of a test led to a power surge, which then led to steam literally blowing the lid off of a reactor at about 1:30am. That caused a fire, and that fire then burns for 10 days. And that was one of the most tragic aspects of the meltdown: The effort to put out the fire led to pouring water on the facility, which caused more damage, and led to a lot of distraction: The fire seemed to be the problem, rather than the radiation.
Preventing a second explosionOnce authorities grasped the seriousness of the situation, the focus became stopping a second explosion. And as Jessica tells me, the reason they needed to stop that second explosion was because it would render essentially all of Europe uninhabitable. And another explosion wasn’t hypothetical there was literal magma sliding toward water they had thrown on the fire from the first event, and if the magma touched the water, the steam would build up and cause the second boom. So they sent in 10,000 miners to dig, but it was so hot in there the miners wore no protective gear. It had become both a localized disaster and an international one, as high levels of radiation suddenly begins to be noticed in Sweden and other Nordic countries. But it was 10 days until any international help was allowed to come into Ukraine.
Chernobyl as a tourism destinationOne of the strangest things about Chernobyl is that it’s now a tourism destination. You have to get approved to go there, but it is a place to visit, and is opened up specifically for visitors. As Jessica told me, it was opened for tourists in 2011, though after some bureaucratic wrestling it was shut down again until 2013. But why do people go there? As Jessica says, there’s been a rise in “dark tourism,” where people visit to see where some of the most tragic moments in history happened. But it’s also a “wild” place, as Jessica says, where you see not only decaying buildings, but how nature has taken it over. This is a really fascinating conversation about one of the most unique travel destinations in the heart of one of the late 20th century’s great tragedies.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere.
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we talk with renowned travel blogger Megan Starr, who has carved out a fascinating niche in the travel world as an expert in the post-Soviet countries, particularly Ukraine. As Megan tells me, Kiev is a city that has been conquered and taken over and claimed so many times across its history, its own culture reflects those who have occupied the city in the past. We talk about Ukraine’s struggle for independence, why it’s in the news recently in both the East and the West, and where and how to travel to this fascinating city.
The Great FamineUkraine became independent from Russia in 1917, but that independence didn’t last long. Five years later the Soviet Union took it over. And then in the early 1930s, the Ukrainians suffered a terrible famine, which some believe was created by the Soviet policies. The Great Famine, as it was known, resulted in somewhere between 7 and 10 million ethnic Ukrainians dying. Many historians believe the famine was “man-made,” with Stalin orchestrating it to quell a Ukrainian independence movement.
Ukrainian Independence and the Orange RevolutionAfter the collapse of the Soviet Union, Ukraine was still besieged with political unrest. President Leonid Kuchma was caught on tape ordering the arrest of a journalist. Massive protests broke out around the country, and in the next presidential election, there was a run-off vote between candidates Viktor Yushchenko and Viktor Yanukovych, the latter being Kuchma’s candidate. Yanukovych won, but the results were seen as rigged, and a re-vote was held which found Yushchenko as the winner. Yanukovych actually won the presidential election in 2010. But while the Orange Revolution was bloodless, a new uprising began in 2013 called Euromaidan. The protests were massive, with around 100 people being killed and Yanukovych fleeing the country. He was later removed by the Ukrainian parliament in 2014. And Megan has traveled Ukraine before and after Euromaidan, and has some great insights into how it’s changed the country.
Russia and CrimeaAfter Yanukovych left, Russia made a move into Crimea, which sparked international outrage, and which has yet to resolve itself. As Megan says, the scene there is bleak, and there have been a lot of deaths in the conflict, but not a lot of people in the West even realize that Russia and Ukraine are technically still at war. As Megan says, every Ukrainian she knows has someone in their life who has died in the war. It’s a very tenuous situation, and one that reaches far beyond Crimea, even into American politics.
Traveling in UkraineDespite all of the recent conflicts and political instability, Kiev and Ukraine is a beautiful place to visit, and few know it better as a traveler than Megan. You do have to be careful with how you travel there, and Megan does a great job walking us through what to see and where to go. But as Megan says, the majority of Ukraine is safe to travel through. As Megan says, Kiev is her favorite city to visit, and it gives her butterflies every time she’s
Outline of This EpisodeOn today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we talk with Ravi Mehta, host of The Wealth of Nations podcast. If you’ve ever traveled through southeast Asia, you know the one place you do not want to stop is Singapore, unless you’re flush with cash. How did this small nation on the Malay peninsula come to have such a crazy economy? Ravi walks us through the history of Singapore, how it got to where it is today, and where it’s headed. If you want to talk Singapore, you have to talk to an economist, and we’re so lucky we got Ravi here today.
Raffling off SingaporeAs Ravi tells me on this week’s show, the Dutch had colonized Singapore in the late 1600s early 1700s, and then the British took it over in 1819. A man named Sir Stamford Raffles claimed Singapore for Britain, and the colony became an important part of the British Empire’s trade route. Stamford Raffles opened up a map and saw that the easiest way from East Asia to Europe was through Singapore, so strategically it was vital to the Empire’s trade. But another unusual feature favored Singapore: A deep, natural port where large ships could dock. And so it was geography and topography that made the country such a sought-after conquest.
Singapore in World War IIWorld War II wasn’t kind to anyone, but Singapore suffered a brutal period when the Japanese occupied the colony. The British were not prepared to defend Singapore, and so the Japanese were able to swoop in and take over. The Sook Ching massacre was a systemic cleansing of the ethnic Chinese in Singapore. The British surrendered the colony in 1942, and the Japanese army began purging what they perceived to be Chinese sympathizers. And while it was supposed to be limited to identified Communists and activists, the violence quickly spread. Japan claims 5,000 were killed, but the current Singapore government puts the number closer to 70,000.
Modern SingaporeDemocracy came to Singapore after World War II, but the first free and fair elections in Singapore didn’t truly happen until 1955. But it wasn’t until 1965 that Singapore separated from Malaysia and declared itself the Republic of Singapore. And really since the 1960s, Singapore has been a powerhouse economy. Ravi told me how its gross domestic product grew more than 10% every year in the late 1960s and early 1970s. To put that into perspective, the U.S. economy grows at about 2 or 3%. Singapore adopted very pro-business policies that helped it woo international trade partners. The result has been a wholly unique country, with very strict rules on its citizenry, high-paying government workers, and an economy that is the envy of many all over the world. This is a fascinating episode about a fascinating corner of the world.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/no-place-like-it%E2%80%A6ory-of-singapore/
I lived in South Philadelphia for seven years, and knew very little about the area’s connection to the Civil War or the Underground Railroad. But just a couple years ago, I read a story about how a house not far from where I used to live was actually visited by Harriet Tubman. And I think this is how many Americans live, right on top of history, particularly the history of the Civil War and the Underground Railroad, and don’t even realize it. My guest today, Jared Brock, author of The Road to Dawn: Josiah Henson and the Story That Sparked the Civil War, says that roughly one in three Americans live in close proximity to Civil War or Underground Railroad history, many never realizing it. On this episode we talk about what the Underground Railroad really was, the incredilble journey of Josiah Henson, and how listeners can learn more about Jacob’s documentary.
History in our backyardThe story goes that when Abraham Lincoln met Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of the classic work of American literature Uncle Tom’s Cabin, he said, “So you’re the little lady who started the Civil War.” That’s how important that book was. But as Jared told me, the book was based on a real man, Josiah Henson, and he soon found out Josiah’s house wasn’t far from where Jared lived at the time. As Jared says, this is the “history in our backyard” episode. But it’s also about how the Civil War and the Underground Railroad permeate our current lives.
Raiders of the Lost YorkThe Underground Railroad was the name for the network of people who worked to bring slaves north to freedom, but as Jared tells me in this episode, it meant a lot of different things. People traveled by rail, by foot, by boat, however they could to escape slavery. And while there were general routes taken, the “railroad” was always changing to avoid predictability. And the people who operated the railroad cut across cultural lines. The Quakers played a large role in the railroad, but so did free blacks.
The life of Josiah HensonThe story of Josiah Henson is incredible. As a child he was so sick that he was given to another slave owner, the man who owned Josiah’s mother, to see if she could nurse him back to health. He does get better and becomes very strong and distinguishes himself with his skill. He then becomes a preacher, and begins collecting money to buy his freedom. But it turned out the slave owner had pulled a scam on him, and sold him on the New Orleans slave market. Josiah’s escape actually predates the Underground Railroad, but it is an amazing story of being helped up into Canada, and arriving with a wife and four children. Jared provides amazing details from Josiah’s life, and great places to visit to connect with Josiah’s story.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we talk with Noah Tetzner, host of the fantastic The History of Vikings Podcast. Vikings have come up a few times on this show, including their time in Iceland’s Thingvellir and their sacking of Lindisfarne. So this time we turn to another sliver of lesser-known Viking history and talk about their time in Denmark. As Noah tells me in this episode, while the Vikings may have a reputation for violence and pillaging, they were actually a simple, agrarian people. On this episode we talk about Norse mythology, Viking raids and a man named Bluetooth.
The Vikings of DenmarkAs Noah told me on this week’s show, if you were to encounter the Vikings of any Scandinavian country, their lifestyles would look similar to you. But while the Vikings of Sweden explored, and the Vikings of Norway colonized, the Vikings of Sweden perhaps had the largest impact on history, or at least the largest footprint. They were the ones that raided and settled in York in the north of England and really changed English history. But the Vikings also established Danish history. Before the Vikings came, there was no recorded history, and the Roman and Greek armies didn’t bother exploring that far north. So once we hit 700 A.D., the Vikings land in Denmark and the history of Denmark begins.
Raiders of the Lost YorkWhen Vikings settle in Denmark, they’re really set up as a series of farming communities. But they do gain notoriety when they show up on the shores of England and raid Lindisfarne. Denmark becomes one of the most powerful nations in the world, and the Viking structure transitions from a loose collection of farming towns to more of a traditional monarchy. The nation of Denmark really begins with the second king, King Harald Bluetooth, who came to power in 958. And he’s significant for a number of reasons, but in particular history will remember him for making Christianity the state religion of Denmark, and setting the country on a similar course to other world powers.
The founding of RoskildeKing Harald Bluetooth, aside from inspiring the name of everyone’s favorite local wireless technology, also founded the city of Roskilde. If you’re ever traveling to Denmark, Roskilde is a must-visit, particularly the Viking Ship Museum, where you can actually crew a Viking ship. Also worth visiting in Roskilde is the cathedral, built in the 12th and 13th centuries, which is also known as the royal burial cathedral. Danish monarchs since the 15th century have been buried here, making it an amazing place to connect with history.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/roskilde-the-vikings-go-to-denmark/
On today’s very special episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, I, a Disney Skeptic, try to figure out why anyone over the age of nine would ever want to go to Disney World. And luckily, for this task I have Maggie Garvin on the show. Maggie is not only the hilarious blogger behind Mags on the Move, she’s also a huge Disneyphile, a former Disney employee, and the perfect person to convince me to head to Orlando, Florida. On this episode we talk about the origins of Walt Disney World, how Maggie was born a Disney kid, and her best tips for drinking around the world.
Disgusting hellholes are the mother of inventionToday we think of Disney as this enormous entertainment company, but back when Disneyland opened in Anaheim, it was still run by Walt himself. And Walt decided to build his theme park because he had taken his kids to carnivals and amusement parks and discovered what everyone already knew: Carnivals, in Maggie’s words, are “disgusting hellholes.” So he wanted to build something that would be clean, fun, and would make you forget the outside world while you’re there. And after the California Disneyland took off, Walt looked east because people weren’t traveling from coast to coast that much in those days, and he picked Orlando as the home of Disney World.
Second-rate VegasDisneyland had become such a success, that Walt Disney knew he wanted to expand eastward. And once he’d decided on Orlando, he set up a number of fake companies to buy up a bunch of land, because he knew if he tried to buy it as Disney, hot on the heels of Disneyland’s success, the price of the land would skyrocket. But Walt had other ideas for Orlando, as well. He said he felt like Disneyland had become a “second-rate Vegas,” and he wanted to build something different in Florida. So much of a tourist industry had sprouted up around Disneyland that Walt Disney really wanted to ensure that Disney World was wholly contained. Unfortunately, Disney wasn’t alive to see his second creation. He bought up the land in 1965, died in 1969, and Disney World opened in 1971.
Jungle Cruise confessionsIt’s a testament to Maggie’s abiding love for Disney that she still loves it despite her years working as a jungle cruise tour guide. (She refers to the people who work at Disney, including herself, as a “higher grade carnie.”) She told me about the time a friend of hers let a kid steer the boat, and the kid returned the favor by defecating on her shoe. But that doesn’t top Maggie’s favorite jungle cruise story. It involves a rope, a cleat on the back of the boat, and a passenger who was putting his hand where he shouldn’t have. As she says, it’s actually not her favorite story, but it is a memorable one, and you’ll have to listen to the show to hear it.
Disney for the childless adultMaggies is full of great advice for visiting Disney, and what to see in Disney World and around the area. As she says, she’s a big advocate for the “childless adult weirdo” to come visit Disney, even if that’s not the demographic they’re going for. Maggie makes great recommendations for restaurants and for, of course, drinking around the world. What country does she recommend beginning your Epcot crawl in? You’ll have to listen to find out.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/an-irreverent-hi…-of-disney-world/
While the History Fangirl Podcast has typically gone around the world to find the most fascinating stories, today we’re taking our eyes off the Earth and casting our gaze starward. Today’s guest is Valerie Stimac, an accomplished travel writer in her own right, who has started a unique site at spacetravelguide.com. While she isn’t quite making recommendations for the burgeoning field of travel into space, Valerie does specialize in covering travel destinations that are of interest to space geeks around the world. In this week’s episode we talk about the history of the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, how Houston became such an important part of its mission, and what happened on the ground during the most dramatic moments in American space exploration.
We have liftoffValerie provides the Cliffs Notes version of NASA history in this week’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, starting with its founding in 1958, following President Dwight D. Eisenhower’s signing of the National Aeronautics and Space Act. NASA started with a budget of about $100 million and three large facilities and two small research facilities. But in 1963, it was clear those facilities would not be able to handle all of the development that needed to happen (Langley Aeronautical Laboratory in Virginia you may remember from the movie Hidden Figures), which led to the establishment of what was eventually called Johnson Space Center in Houston, Texas.
Houston, we have a space centerWhen the U.S. federal government was looking for a city where they could build a mission-critical space center, it wasn’t too unlike the way corporations now search for their headquarters. They had various cities wooing them, and NASA factored in several different facets when conducting their search: it had to be near a big city, it had to be near a large university with resources for research, etc. And it had to be away from other NASA centers around D.C. and Florida. We couldn’t have all of our brain trust in one place for, well, safety reasons.
Phoning homeIf you quote or paraphrase any astronaut (as I did above), you’re likely quoting mission control in Houston, or something an astronaut said to them. “Houston, the eagle has landed,” “Houston, we have a problem”; those are quotes from two different Apollo missions. As Valerie tells me in this episode, with all manned spacecraft being operated from Houston, some of the most iconic moments in space have filtered through Johnson Space Center. Of course Johnson is much more than mission control, there are numerous buildings in the complex that includes engineering and simulation and more, all of which can be called upon to help solve problems in space.
Mission controlThe Johnson Space Center in Houston, Texas is an amazing place that for the last 60 years has launched some of the most incredible feats of human ingenuity, and helped those feats stay on track once they’re out of our atmosphere. As Valerie tells me in this episode, you can actually visit the historic mission control center where NASA staffers on the ground kept Apollo astronauts in the heavens alive. But that’s just the beginning of what you can see there. It’s a truly rare historic site, and even if you don’t think of Houston as a historic city, the space center is a must-see.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/space-tourism-in-houston-texas/
On today’s episode of the History Fangirl Podcast, we’re talking with someone who has arguably the coolest job in the field of history, and one you may not have even known about. My guest today is Fergus Brady, the archives manager at the Guinness Storehouse. The archives contain everything about one of the most famous beer companies in the world, including the founding documents of Guinness signed in 1759. As Fergus tells us, there’s a great tradition of record keeping within the Guinness company, and this episode we take a look at one of the most beloved companies in the world, and its place in Irish history.
A historic brewery needs a brewery historianIn case you needed any more evidence that Guinness is a cool company, Fergus told me that when the company decided to open the storehouse to visitors, it should also create historical exhibits about the company and its place in the country. So its staff of archivists creates and manage the exhibits. And in fact, Fergus told me that Guinness is opening a brewery with an exhibit in Baltimore, Maryland, the first time Guinness has had a brewery in the States since 1954. So I had to ask him why Baltimore and not the famously Irish cities of Boston and New York.
The #1 tourist destination in IrelandThe Storehouse was built at the turn of the 20th century, and as Fergus tells me in this interview, it wasn’t actually built for storing anything. Its first use was as a fermentation house (“store” in brewing lingo means to add yeast), and it was the first building erected in Ireland in the Chicago style, with steel girders rather than the walls holding the building up. The Storehouse is actually the number one tourist attraction in Ireland, with 1.7 million people visiting in 2017. If you’re headed to Ireland and it’s not on your itinerary well, you might be the only one.
The founding father of GuinnessArthur Guinness, the man who started the famed brewing company, was born in 1725. There are a lot of myths about Arthur, of course, but Fergus sets us straight on this episode. And while Guinness may be best known as the “black stuff” as Fergus calls it, when Arthur started the brewery in 1759 he was actually brewing red ale. And then in the 1770s, he started brewing porter. And the porter became so popular that in 1779 he stopped brewing red ale altogether and his “stout” became his signature brew.
Ireland through the Guinness ArchivesIt’s impossible not to view the modern history of Ireland without factoring Guinness into the story. Fergus told me about Guinness during World War I, when not only did Guinness workers fight in the war, but barrels of the stout may have saved sailors’ live. A steamship had been torpedoed and the ship was going down, but according to the sailors, the barrels of Guinness floated up and actually helped them survive the attack. If you’re interested in Irish history or the history of the darkest beer around, you have to listen to this week’s episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-storied-history-of-the-guinness-storehouse
If you’ve ever been to New York City, there’s a good chance you traveled through Penn Station at some point. And then you instantly regretted it. On today’s episode, my guest is Greg Young of the famous Bowery Boys podcast, and we talk about the sad history of Penn Station, and what it can mean for the rest of the country, not just New York City. And while the story of Penn Station is sad, Greg promises to wrap it up in an optimistic, or hopeful, package. Does he succeed? You’ll have to listen to this week’s episode to find out.
The early days of Penn StationAfter sharing my Penn Station horror story (many New Yorkers and visitors have one or a dozen), Greg and I chatted about the early days of the transit hub, which didn’t always double as hell on Earth. These days, the station sits beneath Madison Square Garden, which opened in 1968. But that wasn’t always the case. Greg told me about the original design of the station, which opened in 1910 as the fourth-largest building in the world, with beautiful colonnades and shopping arcades and a beautiful concourse for catching a train. And what’s more, it had tons of natural light, something that the modern-day, underground Penn Station eschews like a vampire. But one fascinating bit of information Greg shared: How impressionist painter Mary Cassatt influenced Penn Station’s design.
Why New Yorkers stopped caring about Penn StationWhat’s fascinating about this time is that Penn Station was sort of the crown jewel of the Pennsylvania Railroad, the largest rail line in the country. But just a couple years later, the Vanderbilt family, which owned the New York Central Railroad, built Grand Central Station. And the ownership of these enormously important landmarks by private companies may have paved while the way for their construction, as we see with Penn Station, it also contributed to its downfall. Greg told me about how both the automobile industry and the airline industry forced rail to take a nosedive, and dragged down the grandeur of rail stations with it. And as the stations fell into disrepair, New Yorkers used them less and less, and cared about them less and less.
Madison Square Garden and Penn StationAs you may know, in the middle of the 20th century, New York City hit financial hard times, and the railroads were no different. Penn Station, not being in the center of New York, Greg told me, really bore the brunt of the financial struggles of the city, whereas Grand Central benefited from being in the center of town. So in the 1950s, in an effort to revitalize the station and the area, the city announced it would tear down the station but keep the railroad infrastructure below it intact, and then build something above it that would benefit from the railway. That became Madison Square Garden, and Penn Station became the underground place no one wants to visit.
JPenn Station and the landmark movementAs Greg tells me, the movement to mark buildings as landmarks and preserve the city’s history was just getting started when the news that Penn Station would be torn down was released. There were no laws on the books to protect old buildings, no landmarks commission. There was a small but powerful group standing up to the city, but it wasn’t a fight they could win. In fact, Greg says Penn Station is often considered the sacrificial lamb to the cause of historic preservation, because after it was torn down, people saw what they had lost. that This was a really fun episode with a guest who helped further my love of history before I ever talked with him.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/penn-station-sacrificial-lamb/
Maybe you’ve heard of the Book of Kells or the Gospel of Lindisfarne: These illuminated manuscripts are not only high works of religious text, but doors that open history to current scholars. Today on the show we’re talking about Lindisfarne, the island on the northern edge of England, where the monks who wrote that book lived My guest today is Dr. Michael Drout. He’s a professor at Wheaton College in Massachusetts and the author of How Tradition Works and Tradition and Influence, and the author of some of my favorite “modern scholar” online courses. We talk about the founding and sacking of Lindisfarne, how the writing of the Gospel of Lindisfarne changed the English language, a saint who used otters as beach towels.
The fickle tides of LindisfarneLindisfarne is an island in Northern England, near Newcastle, with an unusual geography. Lindisfarne is technically only an island for part of each day. When the tide goes out, there is a causeway that allows visitors to drive from the mainland to Lindisfarne. But when that tide comes in, it’s back to being an island. (And, as Michael tells me in this episode, people get stuck on the causeway fairly regularly.) But that semi-isolation actually proved attractive to monks, who wanted a place to be separate. And so as early as 635 A.D. they built a monastery there, and Lindisfarne immediately became the center of what we think of as the golden age of English monasticism. And that reigned until, of course, the Vikings sacked it in the late 700s.
Religious feats of strength at LindisfarneAfter winning what you could call a come-from-behind victory at the Battle of Heavenfield, Oswald, King of Northumbria, credited his placement of a cross on the battlefield with the win. So Oswalt invited monks, many of them Irish, to Northumbria to build a monastery. Oswald had also seen the monks of Iona perform religious “feats of strength,” like reciting scripture while waist deep in freezing water, and had been impressed by that. So he brought monks to Lindisfarne to not only deepen his relationship to God, but to help convert his people to Christianity.
The Lindisfarne GospelWhen the monks weren’t busy praying, or singing, or singing in prayer, they did make the famous Lindisfarne Gospel, a beautiful, illuminated text. Along with the Book of Kells, it’s considered one of the most beautiful books of the Western monastic tradition. And the writing of those books by different groups was not without its rivalries. But one of the most fascinating things that Michael said to me in a very fascinating conversation was how those rivalries, the argument over which Christian traditions should be followed, actually had a huge impact on how English is written.
St. Cuthbert's coffinThe history of Lindisfarne is incredible, and Michael spins so many great stories of what happened there, what life was like for the monks, how and why the Vikings raided. There’s even a personal favorite anecdote, about St. Cuthbert, who—legend has it—would swim in the waters, and otters would follow him onto land to dry his legs with their fur. And we won’t spoil it here, but you have to hear the unusual story of St. Cuthbert’s coffin. This was a really fun episode with a guest who helped further my love of history before I ever talked with him.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-colorful-history-of-lindisfarne/
Angkor, along with its most famous temple Angkor Wat, is one of the most unique places in the world. The French claim to have discovered it when Cambodia was part of French Indochina, but like so many “lost” places the locals always knew about it. However, much of what we know about the ancient city comes from inscriptions and other artwork on the temple. And because the jungle climate much of the other information we have about the city may be lost forever, but we do know that it was the largest pre-industrial city in the history of the world. My guest today is Drew Vahrenkamp of the Wonders of the World podcast. We chat about the ancient history of Angkor, how tourism in the city has changed dramatically over the last two decades, and how history lovers grapple with the ancient past of Cambodia, and the more recent reign of the Khmer Rouge.
The Difference Between Angkor and Angkor WatDrew told me that “Angkor” is actually Khmer for capital, and so Angkor Wat translates to capital temple. The city of Angkor was so massive, so populated, that at its peak (from about the ninth century to the 14th century) one out of every thousand people on Earth lived in the city. Angkor Wat, of course, is the prominent temple and landmark of Angkor, and a depiction of it actually sits in the center of the Cambodian flag. It’s literally at the center of Cambodian identity, and it’s the main tourism site in the country, with approximately 2 million people a year visiting. That’s a good and a bad thing of course. Great for Cambodia, but bad for someone trying to experience the site and not a thousand people trying to take the perfect Instagram photo.
Jayavarman II and the Rise of AngkorTaking in the sheer size of Angkor is mind-blowing. It was about 400 square miles, making it 30% larger than the five boroughs of New York City, and nearly double the size of the city of Chicago. Drew told me that we don’t have an exact time for when the city was founded because often cities would be settled, then they would be abandoned or changed or another city would arise on top of it. But the first major ruler that we know of, who really started the Khmer Empire was Jayavarman II in about 802. Jayavarman oversaw the building of what we understand as Angkor, with the houses and palaces being built of wood, but the temples being built out of stone. In fact, the Khmer people used more stone for the temples of Angkor than the Egyptians used for the pyramids. So historians are now left with only the temples surviving the humid jungle climate.
The Preservation of AngkorDrew is full of good stories about the early days of Angkor (including one about a young prince leading a battle atop the head of a war elephant). But what’s perhaps so fascinating about Angkor in the broad picture is that it was, culturally, as advanced and beautiful as any of the “great cultures” we study and celebrate every day. The only difference is that it was in the jungle. So while we may become invested in the Anglo-Saxons, or know so much about the desert cultures of the Middle East, really what it comes down to is that they had different weather, and the jungles of Cambodia were not conducive to preservation. But luckily, Angkor Wat, built by the elephant-riding king, Suryavarman I, has been preserved.
Jayavarman VII and the Rise and Fall of the Khmer EmpireWhile Jayavarman II may have founded Angkor, it was Jayavarman VII who really helped build many of the beautiful temples and structures of the city. Many of these included depictions of his face, 216 according to Drew, but that doesn’t diminish the beauty of the temples. But soon after Jayavarman VII, as Drew put it, “the whole thing collapses.” War with Thailand decimates the city, Buddhism rises leading to less deference to authority, and climate change alters the environment of Angkor drastically. From there, it’s a more modern history of colonization, and of course the troubled rule of the Khmer Rouge. Angkor is a fascinating, beautiful place, and one whose history, even with so much of it lost, connects with our current times, as this conversation shows.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/the-lost-history-of-angkor/
Belfast is many different things to many different people. It’s both the second-largest city on the island of Ireland and the capital of Northern Ireland. With Brexit looming, Belfast’s attachment to the United Kingdom grows ever more tenuous. But wasn’t that long ago that Belfast was wracked with sectarian violence rooted in class and religious divisions, known as the Troubles. April will mark the 20th anniversary of the Good Friday Agreement, which was the culmination of the peace process that ended the Troubles. My guest today is Fin Dwyer, the historian behind the Irish History Podcast. We discuss how Belfast and Northern Ireland became separated from the rest of the island, and the underlying tensions that sparked the violence.
The Early Days of BelfastWhat’s interesting about Belfast is that despite its prominence in modern history, it was actually fairly late to come together. As Fin told me, a lot of Irish cities were founded in the Middle Ages, but because the Gaelic tribes were stronger in the area at the time. Dublin, for instance, was founded in 841, whereas it wasn’t until the 17th century that Belfast settled. The Gaelic families of Ulster began to falter, and the Scottish and the English began to settle there. And Belfast began to emerge as the leading industrial center in Ireland, particularly in the 19th century, before the Irish famine.
Class and Religious ConflictIt was also in the 18th century that Belfast began to see a true identification as a Protestant city. The Protestant ascendancy was marked by “Orange Parades,” celebrating the city’s Protestantism (and named in honor of William the Orange). And while certainly the sectarian divide between Catholicism and Protestantism separated the city, as Fin told me, that divide was inextricably tied up in class. Belfast was a roaring industrial city, where unions were banned but workers were looking to organize. And as we’ve seen in many parts of the world, that conflict is interwoven with a religious conflict. And as we’ve seen in many parts of the world, that conflict often turns violent.
The Separation of Ireland and Northern IrelandA historian’s hindsight is a valuable thing, and we can say now that the British Empire’s reaction to the potato famine, which ended in the middle of the 19th century, inevitably led to Ireland independence. But at the time not everyone was convinced. Through the late 19th century, the movement for independence gained momentum, but so did the “unionist” or “loyalist” movement, which argued for Ireland staying with the British Empire. By the time the 20th century came around, tensions came to a boil. World War I exacerbated the issue, with those seeking an independent Ireland arguing that the war was a British one, not an Irish one, while the loyalists arguing for Ireland’s involvement. And then in 1916, Irish Republicans launch a rebellion in Dublin, which leads to a vicious response from the British military, radicalizing both sides. This leads directly to the partition of Ireland in 1920.
Bloody Sunday and BeyondPeople outside of Europe may know some of the more prominent terms to arise out of the violence: Bloody Sunday, the IRA, etc. But as Fin tells me in this episode, the conflict was actually deeply rooted in the history of the British Empire, and in both the religious and class divisions in the country. The violence may have been called “The Troubles,” but it was much worse than that: Death squads, massacres and hunger strikes. And Fin pulls back and looks at the larger picture, how the Troubles fit into a time of turmoil, including struggles in Latin America and Palestine. If you’re curious about recent European history, and history as it’s being lived today, you need to listen to this episode about Belfast and the Troubles.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/belfast-and-the-troubles/
With just a week left in office, President Barack Obama signed a proclamation declaring the Birmingham, Alabama Civil Rights District a national monument. Birmingham played a pivotal role in the civil rights movement in America in the 1950s and ‘60s. Prominent figures like Rev. Fred Shuttlesworth and Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. were both active in the community, and the city long ago captured the hearts and imaginations of the nation. On this week’s episode, I talk with Barry McNealy, education and programming consultant of the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. We talk about the events that took place in the city, and what led Obama to make his proclamation.
Birmingham and Civil RightsBarry told me about how just by growing up in Birmingham, the civil rights struggle is a part of life. His aunt was a “foot soldier,” as he put it, and he had high school and college teachers who were involved in the movement. That’s how interwoven the civil rights fight was in Birmingham. And much of it centers on the Civil Rights Monument, where the 16th Street Baptist Church lies, as well as Kelly Ingram Park, infamous as the site where Birmingham public safety commissioner Bull Connor ordered demonstrators be cleared via firehose. And, of course, there’s the A.G. Gaston Motel, which Revs. Shuttlesworth and King used as a headquarters.
The 16th Street Baptist ChurchThe 16th Street Baptist Church in Birmingham was the site of the notorious bombing by the Ku Klux Klan in 1963, but the church’s roots go back to almost the time of the founding of the city. Birmingham was established in 1870, and the church’s congregation came together just a couple years after that. Luminaries flocked to the church: W.E.B. DuBois spoke there, opera singer Marian Anderson performed there. And this was before the civil rights movement took off. The church became known as “everybody’s church,” with both the first high school and the first bank open to African-Americans growing out of the church.
Shuttlesworth, King and the Southern Christian Leadership ConferenceAs Barry told me, the importance of Birmingham to the civil rights movement was both planned and the result of happenstance. The Rev. Fred Shuttlesworth was a key figure in the struggle. When the State of Alabama banned the NAACP from functioning in the state after the Montgomery bus boycott, the reverend created a new organization to stand in its place called the Alabama Christian Movement for Human Rights. The Movement took up both the NAACP’s legal challenges against the state and the nonviolent actions of the bus boycott in 1957. Then, Shuttlesworth and King would work together to create the famous Southern Christian Leadership Conference.
From the 1950s to nowBarry shares so many fascinating stories of this tumultuous time in American history, from the work of civil rights heroes like Dr. King, to the racist actions taken by “mule” politicians like Bull Connor. If you’ve never been to Birmingham, Alabama, I highly recommend a visit to the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. Like so much of history, it’s wonderful to read about, but it’s on the streets where it happened where it really comes alive. The Civil Rights movement started in the 1950s, became a worldwide phenomenon in the 1960s, and in many ways continues to this day. Thanks so much to Barry McNealy of the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute for talking with me today.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/birmingham-civil-rights-movement/
England’s Windsor Castle has been home to 39 British monarchs, with its history stretching back nearly 1,000 years to William the Conqueror. My guest today is Deborah Cadbury, the author of Queen Victoria’s Matchmaking: The Royal Marriages That Shaped Europe, among many other books. We chat about the illustrious history of the castle, what historical events took place within its walls, and what it was like to do research in the Windsor Castle archives. British history buffs will not want to miss this episode.
Windsor and William the ConquerorWindsor Castle is the oldest occupied castle in the world, but it’s even more than that. As Deborah tells me in this episode of History Fan Girl, the grounds of Windsor Castle are 13 acres, so it has the feel of a town. But it’s also a private residence and a window into 1,000 years of British history. It was originally picked by Saxon kings as a fortress, but in the 11th century, William the Conqueror chose it as one of nine castles to form a defensive ring outside of London. And it was chosen because of its elevation, its close proximity to the Thames, and just a day’s march from the Tower of London. It started out as a very simple design, with the round tower at the heart of the castle being one of the very first structures erected.
The Royal Archives of Windsor CastleAnyone who loves history can appreciate the excitement in Deborah’s voice when she describes visiting the Windsor Archives. You have to, of course, first get permission to view the archives, and then you go right into the heart of the castle, climbing 200 stone steps to, as she said, “another world.” The first time she was granted permission, she was researching King George VI’s experience in World War II. And having those diaries from the king opened up the royal family to the historian in a whole new way. Deborah shares some fascinating insights into the monarchy, but also shares the enthralling process of the historian at work.
From William the Conqueror to King EdwardThe stories Deborah has researched in Windsor Castle could fill a book (in fact, they’ve filled several of her books). When I ask her about events that have taken place in the castle, she speaks of King Edward abdicating the throne, Queen Victoria falling in love, and King Albert passing away. She told me about how William the Conqueror began building the castle, but his grandson made it into the stone structure it is now. But perhaps no event is more significant than the signing of the Magna Carta, which happened with Windsor Castle as the backdrop. And when you’re talking about 1,000 years of British history, you know there’s a lot more going on than that, and Deborah is an amazing storyteller to revel in that drama.
Windsor Castle: Where Britain unfoldedIf you can’t climb the 200 steps to view the Royal Archives, the next best thing is listening to a wonderful historian like Deborah spin tales of Britain’s history. In addition to all of the stories that unfolded within Windsor’s walls, she gave us a sense of what architectural highlights to look for should you visit, like the dollhouse and St. George’s Chapel. We also discuss Queen Victoria’s legendary matchmaking skills, and Deborah’s beautiful book. If you love British history, or have binged your way through The Crown on Netflix and are suffering withdrawals, you need to listen to this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/windsor-castle/
In January I took a trip to Southeast Asia, and—somewhat arbitrarily—I decided to make Bangkok, Thailand my first stop. Ever since being entranced by the famed musical The King and I as a kid, I’ve been fascinated with the Kingdom of Siam, and have been cognizant of the push and pull of tradition and colonization that Siam and so many countries have experienced. My guest today to talk about the history of Bangkok and Siam is Charles Kimball of the History of Southeast Asia podcast. Charles and I chat about how Bangkok became the capital of Siam, the role the Chakri Dynasty played in keeping the country independent for centuries, and how history and fiction collide in The King and I.
Siam before BangkokCharles told me that the Thais were first an ethnic minority in China, eventually moving south to form their own country. But even today there are still 12 million ethnic Thais in China, a population size larger than most countries. As Charles says, you don’t hear about the Thai as a people until around 1000 A.D., and the Thais were actually an ethnic minority in their own country until about 1350 A.D. And when the Thais migrated to their own country, they had cast off much of their Chinese identity, and fully embraced Buddhism. But it wasn’t all smooth going. In the early days there were three capitals, and it wouldn’t be until King Ram Khamhaeng became king that Siam, and Thailand, as we know it would form.
24 wars in 350 yearsLike many nations, Siam’s early history is marked by war and battles to stave off invaders. The kingdom was unified in the middle of the 15th century, but through the 16th century, Siam was often locked in a three-way battle with Laos and Burma. It was at the end of the 16th century that Naresuan came to power, and to this day Thais consider him their greatest king because of his campaigns against Burma. And by the middle of the 18th century, Thailand and Burma were waring constantly. As George tells me in this episode, the two countries fought 24 wars in the span of 350 years. And in 1782, after finding their cities laid to waste by war, the Thais moved their capital to Bangkok.
Independence of ThailandOne of the most fascinating aspects of the Kingdom of Siam and Thailand was how it was able to resist colonization. While many countries in Southeast Asia, like Cambodia and Vietnam, where colonized wholly by foreign powers, for centuries Siam and Thailand has been able to remain independent (though of course, not without foreign influence). Charles chalks it up to the country’s mastery of diplomacy. While many other countries fell under foreign powers, Thailand has always been able to maintain strong relationships with other countries while maintaining control of their land. As Charles says, that makes them the “most successful” country in the region.
The real history behind The King and INo discussion of Thai history and royalty would be complete without a look at the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical The King and I. Now the stage play is not well-liked in Thailand, but it is based on the real King Mongkut, and Anna Leonowens. Mongkut had established himself as a reformer with his work in the Buddhist monastery, and asked Leonowens to provide a secular education to his children. Charles points out some other characters that were important to the country as it tried to modernize, heading into the 20th century. Thailand is an amazing place, with a rich history that is all the more remarkable for the way it’s been able to maintain its independence. If you’re interested in visiting Thailand, and want to know the story behind what you find there today, you have to listen to this week’s episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/bangkok-and-the-kingdom-of-siam/
In September I got to go to Bordeaux with a friend who is a 100% certified wine snob. I figured she would enjoy all of the wine, while I mostly focused on getting work done. But I was surprised by how easily I fell in love with the city, one of France’s most underrated destinations, even if you’re not certified. My guest today is Megan Stetzel, one half of the team behind the millennial-focused travel blog, Why Wait to See the World? On this week’s episode, we talk about how the city got its wine, how it almost lost it in the 19th century, and how the city nicknamed “Sleeping Beauty” underwent an amazing revitalization in the last 20 years.
Drink Roman wine quicklyAs Megan told me, wine culture in Bordeaux got started more than 2,000 years ago, when Romans came to the region and started cultivating vineyards purely so their soldiers would have something to drink. And that wine was much different than the wine we think of today. It was very fruity and had a high alcohol content (something Bordeaux wines maintain today). But it would also have spoiled very quickly, within a year, a departure from what we now know about Bordeaux wines, which get better with age. But Bordeaux became more than just the place Roman soldiers went to knock a few back, Megan told me about how the city actually became a commercial center.
Thank Eleanor of AquitaineWine was not exported from France until the 12th century, but that all changed when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry II of England. And when they moved back to England, as Megan says, “Like any good woman, she wouldn’t go without her wine.” She and Henry abolished the tariffs on wines coming into England, which allowed Eleanor to continue to drink her Bordeaux. But if you want to thank someone for helping the local industry grow, you have to thank the Dutch. A lot of Bordeaux was actually marshlands, but the Dutch went in and drained a lot of the water, allowing the ground to become more conducive to vineyards.
The Great Wine Virus of BordeauxI had to ask Megan about “The Great French Wine Blight” of the mid-19th century, which had surprising historical reverberations. As Megan tells it, an aphid infestation began to wipe out the Bordeaux vineyards. But it was discovered that a vine growing in the United States was resistant to the pests. So the French grafted some of that American root stock—from Missouri, of course—and saved the most famous wine in the world. And from that point on, Bordeaux vineyards cultivated the six grapes of Bordeaux wines.
How Bordeaux became a world heritage siteThe story of Bordeaux may begin with Romans making wine for their soldiers, but one could argue that the city’s golden age is happening right now. For years Bordeaux had been in disrepair. The river was flanked by old warehouses, and the water itself was polluted. In fact, the whole city suffered under poor pollution. The city had been called “Sleeping Beauty,” because people knew the city was beautiful, but it wasn’t highlighting its best qualities. But in 1995, the French prime minister decided the city should be cleaned up, and now it’s a beautiful place to visit. If you’re thinking of visiting, you’re going to want to hear Megan’s tips in this week’s episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/how-bordeaux-got-its-wine/ Edit
I recently got to take an amazing trip to Dublin, Ireland, working with the Irish tourism board. And one of the amazing things about working with a tourism board is that you get to see things that you might not normally see, or at least see them in a new light. That was the case for me with the Literary Pub Crawl of Dublin. It was a four-day excursion, and we got to see how the city’s pub culture fostered a literary and drama culture (and, we got to drink some great beer). My guest today is Colm Quilligan, the owner of the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, and we talk about how pub culture gave us everyone from James Joyce to Samuel Beckett, along with some great beer.
How pub culture started in DublinWe often think of pubs or taverns as respites from our busy lives, but as Colm told me, pubs—or public houses—were the center of Dubliners’ busy lives since the Middle Ages. They started as public houses because water quality was often poor, so a woman who was brewing at home would open her house to the public to serve, and eventually charge for, drinks. And then the authorities began licensing and taxing them as businesses, and they became centers of communities. People would often go there after work, sometimes they would even be paid for their day’s labors at the pub. So it was a center of culture and of commerce.
The oldest pubs in DublinAs Colm tells me, the oldest pub in Dublin is supposed to be The Brazen Head, which was positioned right at the main crossing of the old Viking city. When Dublin was an Anglo city, its city walls were often closed at night to keep the Irish out, and so you had pubs and inns popping up around the city, to host travelers waiting to get in. And the Brazen Head still stands more or less where it stood in the 12th century, right where the gates to the city would have been. But Colm’s interest really lies in the famed writers’ pubs of Dublin.
The political culture of DublinIn 1929, the Irish government passed a censorship act, at which point the pubs of Dublin really became a central point for the city’s literary and journalism cultures. Three newspapers had offices within a quarter-mile of each other, and journalists would often adjourn to the pubs nearby after work. So you had those writers and editors there, but then also other writers who frequented the pubs to network and curry favor with those editors. And those pubs had the most Irish names imaginable, like The Bailey, the Bachelor, McDaids and Mulligans. Those places are still standing as-is today. And I asked Colm what it would have been like in the 1920s to go into one of those pubs, and he summed it up in one word, “smelly.” But pubs also played a key role in Irish independence, as Colm tells me in fascinating detail in this week’s episode.
Literary pub culture of DublinAs Colm says, Ireland’s greatest literary export may have been James Joyce. The famous novelist set many of his scenes in Ulysses in Irish pubs. Samuel Beckett is of course another titan of Irish culture, though he said pubs were centers of “paralysis, indiscretion and broken glass.” And then Flann O’Brien was, as Colm says, “very much a pub writer.” O’Brien was strongly associated with one pub in particular, called The Palace. What’s amazing about this chat with Colm, and his tour, is that for him, for Ireland, and for lovers of literature the world over, the pubs of Ireland bring the country’s cultural history to life. You need to check out the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, it’s like a pub crawl crossed with Shakespeare in the Park, and it’s a must-do in Dublin.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/literary-pubs-dublin/
This week marks the six-month episode of the podcast, and to celebrate I conducted a live Q&A with listeners and Facebook followers on Facebook Live. That last sentence is only half true, as the real reason this episode is a Q&A is because my shaky wifi in Malaysia scuttled the interview that was planned for this week. But! This is a good opportunity to celebrate the show’s half-anniversary with listeners, so I took questions and comments left on Facebook, my blog and the podcast about travel, historic places and my own life. Enjoy, and I’ll be back next week with an awesome interview about a historic place.
Tips for traveling somewhere during the offseasonOne of the first questions I took tonight was from Jen, who asked for advice on traveling during an offseason, largely to avoid crowds. While traveling during an offseason may yield some better deals, you have to be careful to research why it’s the offseason. Sometimes the weather makes the destination difficult to inhabit even for a week or so. Sometimes the local travel patterns mean places are shut down. So even though you booked a good deal, you may not actually get to see the places you want to see because they’re closed for the offseason. One tip is to look at professional photographers, and when they post their shots for clues as to what a place is like at different times of year.
What do travel bloggers do?One of the questions I received was about what travel bloggers actually do for work. There are a lot of misunderstandings out there about what it means to be a travel blogger, namely that you just get paid to travel. The truth is that sometimes you get paid, but other times you’re traveling in order to pitch stories, or you’re partnering with an organization that will pay for your travel, but then you still have to do work to pay the bills. And there’s a lot of pressure on travel bloggers these days to always be doing something amazing while making videos, podcasts, blog posts and more. But there are a lot of great resources out there to help you if you want to get started!
Is it embarrassing to film in public?With so many travel bloggers and content creators in general taking to live video, someone asked whether it was embarrassed to film in public. The easy answer is that it’s less embarrassing to do it in a country where the people generally don’t speak English than in an English-speaking country. And as a travel professional, the entire point of me being in a place is to tell the world about it, and generally I’m in places that want the world to visit, so it all works out for everyone.
How to make money as a travel blogger, and moreI got so many great questions while making this video, like how to handle not speaking the language of a country you’re visiting, how to make money as a travel blogger (listen to the episode for all the different ways), and how I pick the places I visit. If there’s one thing I’d like people to take away from the Q&A it’s to have fun while traveling. Sometimes the trips you don’t plan out are the ones that surprise you and become the most memorable. Thank you so much to everyone who joined the Q&A, and I hope to do another soon!
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at:
https://historyfangirl.com/a-very-special-qa/
When you think of an isolated, walled-off country, your mind might immediately go to North Korea. But during the Communist era, Albania may have actually been even more secluded, despite the fact it shared a border with Greece. On today’s episode, my guest is Allison Green, author of the Eternal Arrival blog, part of the Condé Nast Traveler blog network. We talk about what life was like in Albania after its independence from the Ottoman Empire, how the country became a pawn between Hitler and Mussolini, and how its tyrannical dictator walled it off from the outside world. Sound familiar?
A modern history of occupationAs Allison tells me in this episode, toward the end of the 20th century, Albanians began to develop a sense of nationalism, writers and artists began to foster an Albanian consciousness while the Ottoman Empire began to decline. And in 1912, rebels stage a series of revolts, leading to a declaration of independence from the empire in September of that year. But as soon as they create an independent state, Albania isn’t sure what form of government they want. The government goes back and forth from a monarchy to a republic, until the start of World War I when Mussolini marches his troops into Albania and occupies it, setting up the Fascist Party of Albania. And then Germany came in as well, and in 1943, pushed Italy out.
Who are Albanians?The most Googled question about Albania, according to Allison, is “Where is Albania?” And hand-in-hand with that, is the question “Who are Albanians?” And while many Eastern European countries hung onto their religious institutions throughout various occupations, Albanians assumed the Islam of the Ottoman Empire. But it’s lived much differently than what many Westerners may think of when they picture Muslim countries. Interfaith marriages are common, pork is plentiful, and there is very little religious conflict within the country (until Communism took over). And what’s interesting is that the Albanian language is not related to other tongues in the area. It’s idiosyncratic and difficult to learn, and as Allison says, when she ordered two beers at a restaurant in Albanian, the waiter nearly fell over he was so surprised.
The rise of communismOnce the Soviets free Albania and the Communist Party takes over, Enver Halil Hoxha takes over as head of state in 1944, a position he would hold until his death in 195. Indebted to Stalinism, Hoxha begins purging the country of elites and intellectuals, and liquidates personal wealth and transferring it to the state. Thousands of people were expelled or thrown into gulags. But as soon as Stalin dies and Kruschev takes over, Albania’s relationship with the Soviet Union begins to fray. And surprisingly, Albania forges a partnership with another Communist giant, China. Unfortunately, as Albania bunkered down in its Communism, it became walled off and had very little access to the outside world. And then, when Mao dies in China, Hoxha severed that relationship, and the country’s last link to the outside world.
Post-communism, why you should visit and leave Liam Neeson at homeThe reign of Hoxha was brutal for Albania, and also not without its quirks. He was so paranoid, he built hundreds of thousands of concrete bunkers, in preparation for what he thought was the country’s imminent invasion. But by 1990, revolution had come to Albania, and the Communist regime was toppled. That meant Albanians could once again travel abroad, and its borders were open to the world. There may not be too many diamonds in the rough in world travel these days, but Albania is a country full of mystery and beauty that you should try to see. And there’s no better guide to provide travel tips in Albania than Allison. (One pro tip: Don’t mention Liam Neeson or Taken).
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/the-hermit-kingdom-of-albania/
Brussels, Belgium is an often-overlooked city, with neighboring capitals of Amsterdam and Paris stealing the spotlight. But Belgium is definitely much more than just great beer and chocolate. My guest today is Drew Vahrenkamp of The Wonders of the World podcast, and we sit down to chat about Brussels’ La Grand-Place, or Grand Place, the city’s central square. Drew is a self-described Belgiumphile, having studied there while in business school. As he told me, on his first trip to Brussels, he just decided to head to the center of the city to see what was there and was blown away by La Grand-Place. If you’ve never thought much about Brussels beyond its waffles or its famous fries, you’ll want to hear Drew discuss this gorgeous city. But don’t worry, we also talk about the beer.
The history of BrusselsAs Drew tells me in this episode, Brussels is a very unpretentious place, beginning with the name of the city. “Brussels” is a Dutch name that essentially means “home in a swamp.” As he says, Brussels was a small town on the Senne river. But like a lot of river towns, it was in the middle of a trade route with cities of Cologne, Ghent and Brugge. And when it was founded in around 979, it became an important cog in the textile industry. At first, it really was just a trading post. But after the plague hits, and laborers become more scarce, we see a rise in a middle class of laborers and a rise in prominence of Brussels. And that leads to the establishment of the Grand Place.
The early days of The Grand PlaceFor some time there had been some indoor trading markets in the center of Brussels. But in the early 1400s, the notion of a center square starts coming together. And it begins with the building of an amazing town hall, which borrows its architecture from the Gothic churches of the time. The city hall actually still stands today as the only medieval building on the square. The rest of the buildings, including many houses, were flattened by Louis XIV of France in 1695, who marched his army through Brussels on his way to invade Holland. So after the armies left, Brussels rebuilt, and they built in a totally different style, with baroque and Rococo influences. And because all of those buildings were erected over a five-year period, there’s a beauty and consistency to the square that makes it a truly unique place to visit in Europe.
What’s in the Grand Place?Drew takes us on a brief tour around the square, starting with two of the most recognizable landmarks, the Gothic town hall, and then the Maison du Roi, which translates to the “king’s house,” which is funny because Belgium has never been much of a kingdom. But the building also houses the Museum of the City of Brussels, dedicated to the history and folklore of the city. The guild halls that also lined the square were eventually turned into private residences, one of which was Karl Marx’s home at one point. We also talked about how, as Lutheranism had begun to spread in the 16th century, the Spanish controlled the country. And they captured some Lutheran preachers and burned them at the stake in the middle of the Grand Place, making them the first martyrs of Protestantism.
Making its markBelgium is a humble city. As Drew says, its most famous landmark is a three-foot-high statue of a kid peeing into a fountain. It’s a working city that the government didn’t work too hard to preserve, but The Grand Place remains one of the most beautiful places in the city, if not Europe. But there are some great places to visit, like the Magritte museum, and the comic strip museum (Belgians love comics). And, of course, Drew and I break down where you need to eat and drink in the city. If you’re thinking of heading to one of the most unsung cities in Europe, you need to listen to this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere.
More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/the-grand-place/
Visiting Greece can be overwhelming, with the number of historical landmarks to visit. But the Oracle of Delphi, high up in the mountains, is one of the most beautiful, and most memorable, places to visit. The history of the site is enthralling, the views are enchanting, and everywhere you look, you see echoes of why the Greeks thought this was the home of a god. My guest today is Ryan Stitt of The History of Ancient Greece podcast. Ryan and I chat about what the Greeks actually did when they visited the Oracle, and the role it played in the rise and fall of famous Greek leaders and states.
Delphi’s early daysPeople had been around Delphi since the Bronze Age, but in the 8th century, people begin to flock to it and treat it as a religious sanctuary. And as more temples were built, the town became even more of a destination, so much so that by the 6th-century visitors had begun to arrive from other countries, including Rome. The Greek myths hold that Apollo slew the serpent Python at Delphi, and established it as his sanctuary. Delphi was also home of the Omphalos, which is wrapped up in the myth of Cronos devouring his children, vomiting up titans and, well, you should probably just hear Ryan tell the story.
The women of the OracleThe Pythia, the women who served as the priestesses at the Oracle of Delphi, took their name from the python Apollo slew. As Ryan tells me in this episode, the women had to be local to Delphi, had to be peasant women, had to have lived a pure life, and had to be older than 50 years old. Once appointed as the priestess, she remained in the position for the rest of her life and had to remain chaste from that point on. To make one of her prophecies, she first had to cleanse herself in a river, then there were the prophecy trappings we think of—burning of leaves, sacrificing of small animals, etc. And then the priestess would sit upon her bronze tripod, and after a visitor asked their question, she would fall into a trance, during which Apollo would speak his divine will to her. And, as Ryan tells me, the spiritual reason this was the place where Apollo spoke might have actually been geological.
What to see at DelphiIt’s hard to get across just how big Delphi is, and how much there is to see there. As Ryan told me, it took people in the ancient world three days to hike up the mountain to visit the oracle, and the views once they got there remain incredible today. There’s the theater, which is a must-see, the Temple of Athena, and the Sanctuary. But Delphi also began hosting the Pythion games in the 6th century B.C., and the Stadium of Delphi remains one of the best-preserved sites of its kind. It’s clear Ryan loves the history of the games, especially something called pankration, which was a Greek version of mixed martial arts, where the only rule was no eye-gouging. (No one will try to wrestle you if you visit now.)
Making its markRyan and I geek out a bit about how beautiful Delphi truly is. The theater, which is one of the best-preserved sites in Delphi, gives one a view down into most of the town, including the temple, a breathtaking view like nothing you’ll see elsewhere. If you love the rich history of Ancient Greece, the crazy world of Greek mythology, or just visiting some of the most beautiful places on Earth, then Delphi is definitely a must for your travel itinerary. And this episode, with Ryan’s insight into Delphi’s history, is a must-listen.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/the-oracle-of-delphi
The construction of the Brooklyn Bridge changed New York City forever, connecting the suburb to Manhattan, and establishing the borough as a vital part of the city’s life and culture. It’s easy to look at a bridge now and say, “Of course that bridge had to be built.” But why, exactly, did city leaders want to connect Brooklyn and Manhattan, how did the people who lived there at the time feel about it, and how did elephants help make the bridge a landmark? Today, my guest is Ariel Viera from Urbanist, who you may remember walked us through the history of Central Park in episode 14. Also, there are river pirates. Ariel lives and breathes the history of New York, and the stories he has about the Brooklyn Bridge will have you looking at the city in a whole new way.
BBB: Before the Brooklyn BridgeIn the mid-1800s, there were two separate cities: Brooklyn and New York (what we now call Manhattan). And to get from one to the other, you’d have to take a ferry. But as Ariel told me, New York’s traffic troubles go back to before the time of taxicabs: The East River was full of ships going from port to port, and a ferry had to contend with that marine traffic. And there were many ferries going back and forth, from street to street, in Brooklyn Heights and Manhattan, and the system became a bit cumbersome. So, Brooklyn actually proposed building a bridge which, because of the width of the East River, was not going to be easy.
How John Roebling designed the Brooklyn BridgeThe East River is actually wider than the Thames, known for its many bridges, so the engineering problem of spanning the river while still allowing boat traffic was a vexing one. Enter architect John Roebling, who had created a steel wire much stronger than what had been used for bridges before. He had the brilliant idea to use that wire to build a bridge strong enough to reach from shore to shore. But what’s interesting is that even if the engineering required innovation, many criticized the bridge’s design as too plain. But as Ariel tells me, that was actually done on purpose, and the story behind that decision is fascinating.
The building of the bridgeThe ironic tragedy of John Roebling’s life is that it was cut short before the Brooklyn Bridge was built. He was actually crossing the East River on a ferry when a cargo load fell on his leg, and he would later die of complications from the injury. His death came in 1869, the same year construction began on the bridge. Luckily, his son Washington was establishing himself as an architect, and he was able to take over the project. But the building of the bridge took all the way from 1869 to 1883 and wasn’t without incident. As Ariel told me, there were problems with workers going so deep into the river to secure the bridge, and Washington Roebling himself suffered paralysis from going so deep when the caissons were being placed. But the Roebling family endured, and you’ll want to hear what Washington’s wife, Elizabeth, did next.
Making its markAs Ariel tells me, the first few years of the bridge were tumultuous. People flocked to it to cross it, others didn’t trust that it was safe. Shortly after its opening, a woman on the bridge screamed that the bridge was collapsing, and 12 people died in the stampede that ensued. That brought out P.T. Barnum, who marched his elephants across the bridge to demonstrate how safe it was. And those are just a few of the stories Ariel told me in this really fun, funny history lesson about the Brooklyn Bridge. You’ll have to listen if you want to hear about those pirates.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/the-brooklyn-bridge/
There is no shortage of history books covering World War II, and it’s even a joke that if you want to win an Oscar, just make a movie about the Nazis. But despite all of the attention paid to WWII and the years leading up to it, a lot of us don’t have a clear picture of what it was like to live in Berlin during that time. What was it like to watch Hitler rise to power, begin to attack both enemies and allies, and then eventually fail in his conquest? To find some of these answers, we turn to Nick Shepley, a history teacher who also hosts the Explaining History podcast, and has a line of ebooks for history teachers. Nick is so great at really digging in and making historical periods come alive, so I know you’re going to love this episode.
Berlin: The Epicenter of CultureNick divides the time between the world wars into three periods. As he says, from about 1918-1923 Germany is in crisis, from about 1924-1929 it’s relatively stable, and then another crisis from 1929 to 1933 which ends with Hitler coming to power. But what’s fascinating is that during that stable period, radical politics move to the margins and Weimar Berlin becomes the epicenter of modernism. This is when you see writers like Christopher Isherwood move to Berlin, and the rise of influential cultural movements that are still with us today, like Bauhaus. But the freewheeling culture and society of Berlin, Nick says, may have actually helped Hitler—who was scribbling away at Mein Kampf—rise to prominence.
Make Germany Great AgainHitler looks around at all of the avant-garde cultures and relaxing of strict mores and sees what he thinks of as a degradation of his country, led by Jewish citizens and Bolsheviks. As Nick says, fascism always has at its root the idea of rejuvenation: Things were always better sometime in the past, and now a single person is needed to rise up and rejuvenate the country. And so Hitler looked at Berlin and saw it as a festering sore that was preventing Germany from reclaiming its glory. Nick clearly is a natural-born storyteller, and you’ll want to hear how he paints a picture of this pivotal time in Germany’s history.
Berlin as war breaks outAs Nick tells me, while many in Berlin didn’t quite see the horrors of Hitler’s rise—or they chose not to—they were not ready for another war. He tells this amazing story at the dawn of the second world war in 1939 where Hitler rides out into the streets of Berlin in his limousine, prepared to be feted by the people, only to find the streets empty. Of course, things change by 1940, and people do begin to rally around Hitler. And the story Nick tells of why this happens is fascinating. If you have any interest in this time period, you’ll want to listen to this episode.
When history comes knockingThis was such a fascinating conversation with Nick, to talk about what led up to Hitler’s rise, and what life was like for people there. For such a studied time, it’s always been something that I’ve looked at as history, as stories from the past. But seeing some of the signposts and some of the similarities between what was happening in Berlin between the wars and what has happened during our time, it’s a good lesson in how history can help inform how we understand our own time, and even help us recognize the shifting political trade winds as they happen.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere. More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/exploring-wartime-berlin/
Bethlehem may be the most famous small town on Earth. The town is of course known as the birthplace of Jesus Christ, but beyond its most famous citizen, what do people really know about the city? For me, the answer as “not much.” I had the chance to travel to Bethlehem in March, and I learned so much about the city’s history beyond its Biblical history. My guest today is the man who literally wrote the book on Bethlehem, Nicholas Blincoe. Nicholas wrote the critically hailed Bethlehem: Biography of a Town, and on this episode, we discuss what life was like there in the first century A.D., how that history relates to what’s told in the Bible, and how the legacy of its most famous son affected the town centuries after his birth.
How old is Bethlehem?Bethlehem is a very old town in a very old region, at the crossroads of two ancient trails: What today is called Hevron Road that runs up to Jerusalem, and then an east-west trail that came from the Dead Sea. And as the aquifer in the area began to be used as a water source for Jerusalem, Bethlehem town grew up to protect the water source, and eventually became a market town for the people who lived there. But as Nicholas says, his “big argument” in the book is that Bethlehem is not as old as the Bible says it is. I won’t spoil the argument here, but you’ll want to hear what he has to say about it.
Bethlehem in Jesus’s TimeI asked Nicholas about the historical evidence of Jesus’s birth in Bethlehem, and he said that while much of the evidence, including the Gospels, is 200 or so years after he would have been born, there are other ways of thinking about it. For instance, while much of it may be a few hundred years after the fact, much of it is built on 200 years of pilgrimage, which is strong evidence for the town as Jesus’s birthplace. And there was an inn on the edge of town where travelers visiting the site of Jesus’ birth would stay. And so Nicholas notes that even though there is no hard evidence, the fact is that people who lived in the time of Christ certainly believed it, making it interesting evidence for a historian.
St. Helena and the Church of the NativityNicholas tells a great story in this episode about St. Helena, who met her husband as a barmaid and would eventually become the mother of the great emperor Constantine. She then ruled over the empire as matriarch, and went on to build what Nicholas calls one of the most unusual churches in the world, the Church of the Nativity. She actually opened up the top of a cave thought to be where Christ was born, and built a rotunda, so you could look down into the place where Jesus was born. As Nicholas says, it makes the church very influential and, perhaps, interesting from a Freudian perspective.
What to see in Bethlehem, and how to see itI asked Nicholas for advice for visiting Bethlehem, and straight away he noted that the typical tour bus is operated by Israelis, and the Palestinian gift shop owners pay those companies to take tourists by their shops. So, as he said, you could feel a little “icky” arranging a trip in that manner. (Though we both make a few recommendations for tours that are on the up-and-up.) He also recommends the Church of the Nativity, of course, and walking Start Street, which was the old pilgrimage route. He also has some really cool suggestions for Roman ruins, holy sites and good places to stop and eat. If you’re thinking of visiting the most famous small town in the world, first listen to this episode, then pick up Nicholas’s book, and then make your plans.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/o-little-town-of-bethlehem/
The former Republic of Yugoslavia, and specifically the city of Belgrade, occupies a dark space in our collective memory. The Civil War that broke out there in the 1990s, and the ethnic cleansing that ensued, serves as a crossroads between the past and what’s going on today. My guest today is Alex Cruikshanks, the host of the History of Yugoslavia podcast, and we talk about the rise of Belgrade, how it went from being a Serbian backwater to the capital of Yugoslavia, how the country managed to do so well under Communist rule, and what happened when everything came crashing down.
The beginnings of BelgradeBelgrade first came to prominence as a fortress city for the Roman Empire. As Alex tells me, it’s position along the Danube meant that the river formed a southern border of the empire, with Belgrade as the fortification of that border. And that would be the case for years no matter what empire took control of the city. Which, of course, is a far cry from the Belgrade today, which stands in the center of Serbia. And because it was a military city, it was falling to warring countries constantly. So that means that up until the Serbian uprising against the Ottomans in 1804, it was actually a sparsely populated city.
Serbia’s role in kickstarting World War IAlex talked about the different efforts to unify the various people in the Balkans into one Slavic state, though the various groups couldn’t exactly agree on what that looked like, And when Austria annexed Bosnia in 1908, Serbia saw that as taking what belonged to them. In fact, Gavrilo Princip, the man who assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand was a member of the Yugoslavist organization Young Bosnia, which was supported by the Black Hand, the secret Serbian military group. Ferdinand’s assassination in Sarajevo led Austria-Hungary to declare war against Serbia, which kickstarted World War I, when each sides allies got involved.
How Yugoslavia made its own version of socialismWhile under Communist rule, most Eastern European countries had a state-run economy. But Yugoslavia departed from that a bit, where companies, owned by their employees, ran independently. So it was a kind of market system, but also a spin on socialism, which allowed for things like competition, and allowed for Yugoslavia’s economy to grow in ways other countries’ couldn’t. Politically, Yugoslavia also broke away from the Eastern Bloc in 1948, occupying a middle ground both economically and politically between the United States and the USSR. But of course, as Alex and I discuss, that prosperity doesn’t last, and as we head into the 1980s, Serbia is headed for an ethnic war.
Slobodan Milosevic and a violent turnThe late 1980s and 1990s were a dark time for the city and Yugoslavia in general. As Alex tells me, the infamous Slobodan Milosevic rose to power on a wave of nationalism that he, essentially, adopted to advance his own career. The first province of Yugoslavia to peel away was Slovenia, which Milosevic didn’t fight to keep because the Serbian population was smaller than in other areas. But as we know now, Yugoslavia was coming apart, and the ensuing war is one of the darkest conflicts of our recent history. Alex walks us through what happened as chaos broke out, and what that time means for Serbia and Belgrade today.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/belgrade-rise-white-city/
The Salem Witch Trials are one of the most (in)famous events in American history. There are plays, movies and books about it, and no American schoolkid made it to junior high without learning about them. But did you know that there were actually witch trials held about 30 miles to the south of Salem, in Boston? My guest today is Nancy Mades-Byrd, host of The Witch Hunt Podcast, who lives in Salem, and who has studied the period her entire life. Nancy tells me about what happened in the Boston Witch Trials, why they maybe didn’t capture the national imagination in the same way, and what influence they had on the little town to its north.
The story of Goody GloverThe most famous witch trial in Boston happened in the city’s North End, now beloved by tourists and Bostonians alike for its Italian culture. But in the 17th century, when Boston was a Puritan theocracy, witch trials were not uncommon. The last and most famous victim to be hanged was an Irish Catholic woman named Ann Goody Glover, who died on November 16, 1688. Glover, a widow, had been deported from Ireland to Barbados with her daughter, expelled by Cromwell during his occupation of Ireland, and then eventually made her way to Boston. She and her daughter worked as servants in the home of John Goodwin, neither of them speaking English (They were Gaelic). That played a huge part in Goody Glover’s tragic story, as did the treatment of the Irish in Boston at the time. As Nancy told me, “The only thing Boston hated more than a witch was a Catholic.”
What does a doctor prescribe for witchcraft affliction?Goody Glover’s downfall all began when the Goodwin children began coming down with bizarre symptoms. They were having seizures, running around on all fours and making guttural noises, throwing religious books around the house. And so the family doctor diagnosed them with the 100% legitimate medical condition of witchcraft affliction. And while we may think of witchcraft accusations as common because of their historical prominence, Nancy told me only 80 people were accused of witchcraft in the 17th century, most of them in Connecticut. But even though not too many people were executed for witchcraft, everyone still believed in witches, so the doctor’s diagnosis wasn’t too beyond the pale. And there was even a prescription for those under the spell of a witch: fasting and prayer.
The Boston Witch Trials and Cotton MatherA figure who would be made famous for his role in the Salem Witch Trials, Rev. Cotton Mather, took an active interest in Ann Glover’s case as well. He took the 13-year-old daughter Martha into his home to study her condition, and she’s the one to finger Ann as the one who’s afflicting her. And as Nancy tells me, Ann didn’t have much of a chance, given the language barrier. Cotton Mather then went on to write a book about the trial, which became a 17th-century bestseller, and almost certainly would have become a well-known tale in Salem. But Nancy says the Salem girls weren’t simply copying the Goodwin children. Historians now believe both groups of kids were suffering from something called mass psychogenic disorder, a sort of group mental illness that has popped up throughout history.
Half-Hanged Mary and other scapegoatsThe Salem Witch Trials were of course the most famous and most extensive, with Nancy noting that some 200 people were accused of being witches, but Boston and Salem weren’t the only places suffering from witch hysteria. Nancy talks about the story of Half-Hanged Mary in Connecticut, and what was happening in Europe, where as many as 60,000 people may have been killed as accused witches between 1630 and 1660. Nancy is so knowledgeable about this slice of history, and I highly recommend everyone check out her Witch Hunt Podcast. As this episode proves, there’s so much left to learn about a time in history we all studied in school.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere More info and photographs for this episode at: https://historyfangirl.com/boston-witch-trials/
For American history buffs, the Civil War can feel like covered ground. But if you put aside the big battles and turning points, there are still so many smaller, fascinating stories deserving to be told. And there truly is no one better to dig into those lesser-known stories than my guest, CEO of Atlas Obscura David Plotz, whom you may also know as the co-host of the Slate Political Gabfest. In this episode, we talk about how the city of Washington D.C. defended itself during the Civil War, why it built dozens of forts around its perimeter, and why those forts are now in ruins. It’s a huge honor to have David on the show today, and I can’t wait for you to hear it.
The hidden history of Washington D.C.’s fortsDavid told me he first got interested in the forts the capital when he went on a bike ride with his daughter down a path he’d never gone down before. And while pedaling around, he noticed that all of the areas they were biking through were named “Fort” something. And when he looked at a map, he realized that all of the areas arranged in a circle around the capital were named for Civil War defenses. And then later, on a hike with his family, he discovered the remains of Fort Derussy out in the middle of the woods. You can still see it today, the moat, the high earthen walls (David mentioned he and his family played capture the flag there for his wife’s birthday). As David says it’s a magical place now, but we dig into why Fort Derussy was built in the first place, and how it and the other forts came to be forgotten.
Defending the capitalThe union built 68 forts in Washington, D.C., most of them between 1860 and 1863. As David points out, the capital of the union was actually in the heart of Confederate territory, so the fortification had to be extensive. And of course, while D.C. had to be defended, as David highlights, there is “strong evidence” that the building of so many forts was an attempt by the Army Corps of Engineers to show Congress how important it was and to boost its funding. It was a huge effort, considering that before the war, there was only one fort in D.C., Fort Washington, which stood fairly ineffectually in the War of 1812. As David says, D.C. was an important location not so much for military strategy, but for morale. The South didn’t want to win the North, they just wanted to force a settlement. So the Union “defended the heck out of it,” to prevent its capital from falling, and allowing the South to claim that leverage point.
The battle for Abraham Lincoln’s seatNothing much happened in Washington, D.C. for the first four years of the war. In fact, D.C. was set up largely as a hospital city to treat the Union’s wounded (and it’s where Clara Barton set up shop). In fact, David says, the forts of Washington had begun to atrophy by 1864, because there weren’t any attacks. And the soldiers stationed there weren’t the best because those were off fighting the major battles. But that year, General Robert E. Lee decides the Confederacy should take Washington, D.C., forcing out Lincoln and sweeping the presidential election to the Democrats. And so in July of that year, 15,000 cavalry came to D.C., but when confronted by the high walls of Fort Reno, decided to go a different way. Little did they know, Fort Reno was abandoned. That was just the first of a few tactical mistakes that made the next day’s battle at Fort Stevens a historic victory for the Union, but that’s not even the craziest part. You’ll want to listen to find out who made a surprise cameo.
The ruins of D.C.’s forts, and David’s favorite spotsMany of the Washington forts were on private land, so after the war was over, the owners of that land tore them down. Some ended up on public parkland, which is why David and his family could play Capture the Flag on the ruins of Fort Derussy. But as David says, though the defenses were important to protect the Union, they weren’t consecrated ground. Not a lot of people died there, there wasn’t a lot of revered battles. But these forts still clearly have a place in D.C.’s history, and along with the remaining sites, David provides a Washingtonian’s guide to the unknown history of the city. You’re not going to want to miss this.
Outline of This EpisodeFeaturing the song “Places Unseen” by Lee Rosevere
For more information and photos, check out my blog post.
Visiting London can be overwhelming, with the list of must-see locations stretching as high as Big Ben. But my guest today, author Leanda de Lisle, takes us deep into a lesser-known but historically vital London locale: Banqueting House. We talked about how Banqueting House fits into the rich history of London, its famous architect Inigo Jones, and the gorgeous painting by Flemish artist Peter Paul Rubens. And because Leanda is the author of the fantastic book, The White King: Charles I, Traitor, Murderer, Martyr, you know we had to talk about Banqueting House’s as an infamous historical site: the execution of Charles I.
The origin story of Banqueting HouseBanqueting House in London is right in among many of the famous London landmarks but is easy to overlook. As Leanda told me, it was built by James I, father of Charles I, in 1619 because he needed a place to host and entertain ambassadors and foreign dignitaries. Charles I was only 19 years old at the time, but only a few years away from becoming king himself. Inigo Jones designed it in the Italian Palladian style, the first of its kind in England, with a striking appearance to greet visitors to England. The building was built of yellowish stone, through it was refaced in the 19th century with the gray stone visitors see today.
The Real Royalty of LondonThe construction of such an incredible building came at a fairly turbulent time for the Stuarts and Charles in particular. His mother had died in 1619, the same year Banqueting House was built, and not long after his brother had passed away. His sister had gone abroad to be married, so Charles was left alone in England. And there’s an odd dynamic with Charles’s father, James, having an intimate relationship with the Duke of Buckingham that was likely homosexual, and the duke trying to get in the good graces of Charles, the heir to the throne. Buckingham actually took on a mentor role for Charles, helping him as he transitioned to adulthood. And that friendship would become massively important when James died, and Charles took the throne. And given what was happening in England at the time, Charles would need to lean on that relationship heavily.
The trial of Charles IWhen Charles ascended to the throne, the Thirty Years War was already raging in Europe. As Leanda says in this episode, the war was really a fight between Catholicism and Protestantism, and the Protestants felt they were losing. Charles had some “quite conservative” ideas about how to reform the Church of England, with an emphasis on ritual. That, along with a testy relationship with his Parliament, set up the climate in which the country and its leaders were divided in their support of Charles, setting up a Civil War. Charles was eventually put on trial for treason—which was ironic at the time because technically treason could only be committed against the king—and as we know, found guilty and sentenced to death. Leanda sets the tragic scene for listeners; from Charles’s final meeting with his children to the walk to the scaffolding outside Banqueting House. It’s a dramatic story, and one you’ll want to hear from the woman who literally wrote the book about it.
Banqueting House: The setting for the high drama of Charles’s reignLeanda is full of colorful stories about Charles I and the Stuart monarchy, and the dramatic end of Charles’s life. I asked her why she set out to write a book about Charles I, and you can hear her light up as she discusses the fascinating characters of the time. We talked about Charles’s wife, Henrietta Maria, the Duke of Buckingham and someone she refers to as “the frenemy from Hell.” (You’ll have to listen to find out who that is.) The backdrop to all of this, of course, is Banqueting Hall, an underrated tourist destination, but a spot of high drama in English history, which is, of course, saying something.
Outline of This EpisodeMore at https://historyfangirl.com/banqueting-house-place-kill-king/
At this point, there aren’t too many “hidden gems” left in the world for savvy travelers and history geeks alike, but the Painted Churches of Moldavia may just be one of the last. My guest today is Ciprian Slemko, a guide with Hello Bucovina, which provides tours to the historical region that splits between the northern region of Romania, and the southern region of Ukraine. The eight churches that make up the core of the painted churches were all built in the late 15th century through the late 16th century, and provide a time capsule the rich history of the region, from the Middle Ages through communist rule all the way to today. And there’s no better tour for that trip, than Chip.
Stephen the Great’s great achievementThe Romanian king Stephen the Great first came up with the idea of building the gorgeous monasteries in his country in the 15th century. He built some 40 churches, but as Chip told me, he didn’t actually have the exterior paintings done because he was too busy warring with the Ottoman Empire every six months. It was actually his son, the Moldavian prince Petru Rares, who came up with the idea. After traveling to Florence, Italy Petru Rares wanted the churches his father built to have the same artistic grandeur. And it was this combination, the father’s devoutness, and the son’s appreciation for art, that combined to create the most impressive of all of the churches: Voronet.
Voronet: The Sistine Chapel of the EastThe crown jewel of the painted monasteries is Voronet, often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the East. Chip told me that people began calling the monastery that in the 18th century after its reputation traveled around Europe. It’s known for its deep, beautiful blue—actually called Voronet Blue—which was created using azurite and lapis lazuli rocks. An enormous fresco of the Last Judgment adorns the western exterior of the building, but there are paintings all around the church. Chip told me Petru Rares’s wanted to deepen the people’s understanding of the Bible in an age when few could read or write, so the paintings were designed to tell the stories of the Book. And each church got its own predominant color, making visiting these buildings a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Standing strong during turbulent timesWhat’s amazing about the buildings is that they’ve stood for more than 500 years, and you can still visit and appreciate their beauty. They’ve stood through the political shifts, with the land changing hands, and the many wars over the centuries. And they even stood was under communist rule. But as Chip told me, the people of Romania are survivors, and they resisted under the watch of the government, still attending church, and the Orthodox Church still held services. And it’s true that when I visited the region, not only were the people who lived there some of the nicest I’ve encountered, I could also get a sense of their devoutness. As Chip said, it’s truly a beautiful land with beautiful people.
How to See the Painted Churches of MoldaviaThe eight painted churches of Moldavia are spread throughout a large region, almost a circle of 250 kilometers, and it would take a few days to see them all. But Chip has a better plan: He’s mapped out a route that will take you to see four of the most beautiful churches, including Voronet. And you can hear how to route that trip on this episode. Of course, you won’t just want to see the churches if you go to this beautiful part of the world, and Chip lays out all of the options for what else you can do, from rafting to skiing. If you’re interested in the history of the Eastern Orthodox religion, or in seeing some of the most beautiful architecture of the Middle Ages, you’ll want to listen to this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeIf you ask most Americans about the history of their country, they’ll start somewhere around 1492, or maybe even 1776. But before the pilgrims and before John Hancock, of course there were large, thriving civilizations of Native Americans. One of the most notable communities was in Southern Illinois, not too far from St. Louis: Cahokia, a Mississippian community of some 10-20,000 Indians, with perhaps twice as many living around the urban area. Who were the people who lived there? What have archaeologists discovered about their culture? To answer these questions, I chatted with Bill Iseminger, assistant site manager at Cahokia Mounds and the man who literally wrote the book on the historical site.
Cahokia Mounds: The largest city you never heard ofAccording to Bill, Cahokia Mounds was the largest prehistoric Indian community in America. The first signs of civilization date it to around 1050 AD, and the city thrived for about 150 years. Cahokia proper comprised of six square miles with more than 120 mounds. Bill first came to the site in the late 1960s, when he was finishing up his master’s degree, and received an offer to assist on a dig. He started digging, and never really stopped, and the archaeological site is still active with excavations just about every summer. And the artifacts they’ve found there has profoundly influenced what we know and think about ancient American Indian cultures today.
The city at the center of it allThe Cahokia tribes flourished largely thanks to the tremendous natural resources at hand. The site sits at the confluence of the Mississippi, Missouri and Illinois rivers, meaning the soil was rich for agriculture, and transportation made trading with other tribes easy. Bill told me they’ve found seashells from the Gulf of Mexico and arrowheads from Indiana. In fact, he told me that one presumed leader of Cahokia was buried with more than 1,000 arrowheads, with materials and styles from across America, signaling that perhaps tribes from all over paid tribute to the leader. We don’t know much about some aspects of their culture because they didn’t have a written language, but Bill and his colleagues have been unearthing mysteries with every dig.
The size and scope of CahokiaThe historical landscape of Cahokia is fascinating. Monks Mound, the largest pre-Columbian earthen structure in North or South America, stands 100 feet tall and stretches 14 acres. The people who lived there would have had to move 22 million cubic feet of Earth to make such a structure. They also constructed “woodhenges,” circular monuments made of timber, that would have helped them track the calendar—solstices and equinoxes, but their own important dates as well. And to defend their city, they built huge stockade walls, made up of as many as 20,000 logs cut from thousands of trees. We know because of the size of the houses that the Mississippians who lived in Cahokia largely stuck to the nuclear family structure. But the society was very hierarchical. Likely, whether you lived inside or outside the stockade said something of your status. So why then, if Cahokia was so well protected and on such fertile land, did the city eventually come to an end? I’ll let Bill fill you in on that.
The unfolding legacy of the Cahokia MoundsToday, Cahokia remains one of the richest archaeological sites in North America, and one I highly recommend you add to your list to visit. If you plan your trip right, you can even help with an excavation, either doing the actual digging or just cleaning off the findings. The Cahokia Mounds are incredible monuments to the prominence and sophistication of those early American Indian civilizations. So why don’t more people know about them? As Bill jokes, “There’s something about piles of earth that’s not as exciting to people as piles of stone.” But I think that’s something that will change for anyone who tunes into this episode.
Outline of This EpisodeThough it may seem like Central Park has always been a landmark for visitors and native New Yorkers alike, that’s not actually the case. The park, like much of the city, was very carefully mapped and planned out. But unlike the rest of the city, which was aligned to a strict and orderly grid, Central Park was designed to be wild: To mimic the untouched wilderness in other parts of America. Why was the park designed this way, how did its designers create such an unusual urban space, and what has caused the ebbs and flows of America’s most famous park over the decades since? There’s only one guy who could answer these questions: Ariel Viera of The Urbanist.
From Swamp to Central ParkAriel is well known for merging the old and the new, conducting his deep dives in the history of cities via Facebook Live. And that’s where this episode is actually taken from, our chat on the platform. Ariel told me about how, when the park was being conceived, it wasn’t initially planned for its current location. City officials thought about building the park along the East River, but then were afraid that many couldn’t make the trip to visit. But before it became a park, it had, as Ariel tells us, a few shantytowns, and actually a thriving, self-sufficient African-American neighborhood called Seneca Village. How did the swampy, rocky land become a famous urban oasis? And what happened to the people who lived there?
Central Park’s ArchitectsThe city held a competition to design the park, and Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux won for their unusual, innovative design. While New York wanted to differentiate itself from major cities like London, which had small, mannered parks, Olmsted and Vaux had a wholly unique vision. They wanted to create a wild space akin to recreating the Adirondacks in the middle of the city. “These two guys blew people’s minds,” Ariel told me. And of course, other cities began hiring Olmsted and Vaux to build parks for them, as well, and they went on to design more than 700 parks around the country.
From Oasis to Eyesore: What Happened to Central Park?If you’re like me and grew up at a time when Central Park was considered an unsafe part of the city, then you may be surprised to see what it’s become today: A beautiful tourist destination. Ariel took me through the park’s topsy-turvy history, from the mob hits that would take place in the 1920s, to the eventual closing off of the Ramble Cave, because of all of the crimes committed in the remote part of the park. The trouble extended up through the 70s and 80s, until the Central Park Conservancy was founded and began raising funds to help restore and maintain the park. Ariel has a lot of stories about what happened in the park, and how it shifted over the years, and you’re going to want to hear them.
Five Central Park Must-SeesOf course, today the park is a completely different place, the most visited park in the world, with some 29 million visitors annually, according to Ariel. He gives us his five must-see destinations for visitors to the park, and while I won’t give all of them away here, he does shout out the beautiful Bethesda Terrace and eases my mind about whether it’s cool to hop in a rowboat around the park. Ariel is full of insight and enthusiasm for the most prominent park in the States, and if you’re like me, and love the nitty-gritty details of urban history, this episode is a must-listen.
Outline of This EpisodeTraveling throughout Europe, you can find the legacy of the Ottoman Empire just about everywhere. But if you want to experience a place that has lived through the ebbs and flows of the empire, and connects us through more than 500 years of history, you need to visit the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. My guest on today’s show is Chris Mitchell, of the travelingmitch blog, who until recently lived in Istanbul, and knows his way around its landmarks. As Chris told me, while some things have changed about the giant shopping district, many things haven’t. And if you want to learn about a country, especially a country as rich in customs and commerce as Turkey, you head to the bazaar.
The Grand Bazaar’s Early DaysChris told me the Grand Bazaar was first built in 1455 and was really up and running the 1460s. Known as the “House of Gems,” the giant, covered warehouse became home to 3,000 vendors (not too far off from the 4,000 that populate the spot today). The Bazaar was the creation of Mehmet II, the emperor in the mid-15th century, who saw the opening of the warehouse as a means to raise money for the Hagia Sophia, the place of worship nearby. The bazaar attracted interested parties from all across Europe, and helped establish Turkey as a center for commerce and trade, as manufacturers, traders and various trade guilds sprang up around it. There were (and still are) mosques in the warehouse, as well.
The Grandness of the Grand BazaarThe 30-hectare space contains two bedestens, or covered markets, the first one being built shortly after the first, once they saw how quickly the Bazaar was expanding. There are 18 gates to enter, and 61 streets inside. As Chris told me, the Bazaar became more than a market, it became a symbol of Ottoman control and a testament to the empire’s reach. There were goods available there that simply weren’t elsewhere, and it became fashionable around Europe to have something from the Ottoman Empire. But, as the Ottoman Empire’s influence began to wane, and it began to lose control of lands across Europe, that was reflected in the commerce happening inside the bedestens.
The Grand Bazaar in the 20th CenturyAfter World War II, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk became the founder and first president of the Republic of Turkey. He pushed for Turkey to become a secular nation, one that put more emphasis on research and development, and—as Chris said—aimed to catch up with its European neighbors. But Atatürk recognized the need to honor the history of the Ottoman Empire, so he had to walk a fine line. He saw many of the structures from the past were important to the country’s future, so even as he pushed for the modernization of the country, he preserved its heritage. All of which helped make the Grand Bazaar the destination it is today.
Traveling to the Grand BazaarAs Chris told me, in 2014 more than 400,000 visitors a day passed through the gates of the Grand Bazaar. That number has likely dipped, with a tightening on tourism to Turkey. But Chris gave listeners great tips on other destinations around the Bazaar and around the city, so if you can get a visa, it’s worth making a trip to the bustling shopping area. “Make sure your haggling skills are sharp,” Chris says, and be ready to consume more chai tea than you thought humanly possible. Because this beautiful, historic, teeming shopping district is a living reminder of the grandness of the Ottoman Empire.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card! To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/istanbuls-grand-bazaar/. The contest ends Sunday, November 5 at midnight.
Connect With StephanieWe all know the basic story of the Allied Forces storming the Beaches of Normandy in World War II. It’s one of the most dramatic and harrowing events in modern warfare. But my brain couldn’t comprehend the size and scale of the allied forces’ operation, and the sheer number of casualties taken on those beaches of France. I had the honor of traveling to Normandy with Liberation Route Europe, a nonprofit that helps travelers interested in history connect with savvy tour leaders, and which helps celebrate the history of this amazing part of the world. And I had the even greater honor of interviewing Jory Brentjens, a historian for Liberation Route Europe, and I think even if you know the story of D-Day, you’re going to want to hear what Jory has to say.
Before the Storm: Planning in Advance of Hitting the Beaches of NormandyAs Jory tells it, such an enormous operation took a herculean effort by the Allied Forces to plan. There were more than a million people assembled in Southern England, readying for the invasion. General Dwight D. Eisenhower was in charge, but the Allies were truly allied, British officers were in charge of both the air and naval wings of the operation. The Allies had set up decoy missions, along the Dutch border and elsewhere, to try to throw the Germans off the scent. Meanwhile, the German army was having difficulty, with no single commander in charge of the defense. But that doesn’t mean they didn’t have deadly preparations in place.
Why the Beaches of NormandyThe Allies could have tried to take back France via a number of routes, but Normandy provided several factors that won the day. The generals were particularly concerned about the weather, which could hamper the operation, and Normandy is somewhat sheltered. The area was also fairly close to England, within reach of Allied fighter jets, and German defenses were not as complete as in other regions. The Germans anticipated a raid in Calais, thanks to its proximity to England, so the forces decided to strike where they had a better chance of breaking through. But, as Jory tells us, and as we may have difficulty grasping, that doesn’t mean it was anything but harrowing.
D-Day: Storming the BeachThere were six beaches planned for the raid, with American forces landing on three of them. Jory and I discussed the famous story of John Steele, the paratrooper who landed on the spire of a church in Sainte-Mère-Église and avoided German notice. But that’s a happy story in an otherwise terrifying tale. Jory describes the scene on the beaches as “completely insane,” with German forces sinking Allied boats in the water, exploding mines on the beaches, and unleashing heavy artillery on the incoming troops. At Pointe du Hoc soldiers had to use ladders and anchors tied to the ends of ropes to scale the cliffs to secure the area, while German soldiers fired down upon them. And though the battle to secure the beaches only took a couple of days, the real battle was to secure Normandy, a fight that took months, and which Jory told me, was “hellish.”
Connecting the Past to the PresentThere is a ton of history in this episode, and Jory has a lot of fascinating details about both how the invasion was planned, and what happened on the ground. I had the great pleasure of visiting many of the historic locations around Normandy, an incredibly emotional experience as you visit the various museums, and spend time among the thousands buried in the official graveyards. The lessons of the past are never too far from us, and I couldn’t help connect the way France and Germany responsibly memorialize their past, with how America is wrestling to do the same.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a copy of Mike Duncan’s forthcoming book The Storm Before the Storm. It comes out on October 24! To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post. The contest ends Sunday, October 29 at midnight.
Connect With StephanieIf you’ve ever visited Iceland, you know the natural beauty of the planes of Thingvellir is something special. But what you may not know, is that this open field was once home to perhaps the oldest governing body of Western Civilization. That’s why this week, I chatted with Lee Accomando of The Viking Age Podcast. Lee is as entertaining as he is informative about the history of Iceland, and what makes Thingvellir such an amazing historical site.
The Thing About ThingvellirThe open-air plane of Thingvellir was the home of the Icelandic Althing, the parliamentary body that met there from 930 C.E. all the way to the 1800s. The current Althing, which meets in Reykjavik to this day, draws its history from this governmental body. At the time, the Althing would meet to settle various disputes, from arguments over land to fishing catch to—because these are Vikings we’re talking about—who killed who and whether it was justified. Initially, there were small assemblies of local leaders called “things,” but Iceland was really unique in convening a centralized body, and Lee actually does an amazing job tracing the idea back to Roman history.
History Meets Pseudo-History in ThingvellirOne of the things I love about Lee’s podcast and about talking with him is that he’s full of great stories and anecdotes from the Viking age. I asked Lee how the Vikings came to land on Iceland, and he told me there is no official account, but he did tell me his favorite “fake account” that involves one ship captain’s deep trust of ravens. But we do know that after political upheaval in Scandinavia, ships set sail and likely were blown off course, bringing Vikings to the island sometime around 800 C.E. By the 920s, somewhere between 10,000 to 30,000 people had emigrated there, and as Lee told me, there needed to be some way to bring those people together.
We Have Soap Operas, the Vikings Had SagasOne of the fascinating aspects of Viking culture in Iceland is that there was an explosion of literacy in the 1200s which led to the scripting of the Viking Sagas, what Lee calls “amazing works of literature and pseudo-history.” He says the books were essentially “nostalgic” literature about the ancestors who had come to Iceland. There are fishing disputes, love affairs, divorces, revenge plots. I had to ask Lee for his favorite story from those tales, and while I won’t spoil it here, I will say it involves someone getting locked in a sheep shed.
Tracing the Vikings of Thingvellir to the PresentIceland went through tremendous upheaval in the ensuing centuries, from converting from a pagan country to a Christian one, to falling under the rule of the Danish monarch to eventually declaring its independence. Iceland was granted its status as a sovereign state in 1918, but it wasn’t until World War II that it became a truly independent nation. The planes of Thingvellir, and the Althing that still meets to this day, continue to connect the country to its Viking heritage, and Lee weaves a fascinating story as he helps us make that connection.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card. To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/icelands-thingvellir/
Contest closes on October 22, 2017 at midnight EST.
Connect With StephanieGary Arndt is a renowned travel blogger and photographer who has made it his mission to travel to all of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, from the big names like the Great Wall of China to the most remote islands of the Pacific Ocean. In 2007, Gary sold his home and decided to travel the world, and in this episode, he tells me all about how the UNESCO program got started, what are some of the craziest places where his mission has taken him, and what ones ended up being slight disappointments. He’s traveled to 337 of the sites so far, so listen to this episode to hear from someone who has really seen the world’s history up close and personal.
How Gary Got Started Traveling the UNESCO SitesGary told me the story about visiting Volcanoes National Park in Hawai’i in 2007, as he embarked on his journey. And while there, he spied a sign marking the locale as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After doing a little research, he became fascinated with the list. He set off for the Solomon Islands and visited East Rennell, the southernmost island in the chain. It took a lot of traveling to get there, including eight flat tires on the drive from the airplane landing strip to the site, but there was no denying it, Gary was hooked on visiting these important world historical sites.
Let’s Go, UNESCOThe United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) created the first list of World Heritage Sites in 1978, and as of this recording, there are 1,052 locales on the list. Gary has visited a third of those, and I’ve visited about a quarter as many as Gary, standing at 83. To become a World Heritage Site, countries have to first submit a tentative list to UNESCO, and then eventually whittle it down. It’s a long and expensive process, one that can take years and hundreds of thousands of dollars to complete. But taken as a whole, the list contains some of the most awe-inspiring places on the globe, and there’s no better storyteller to hear talk about those places than Gary.
Gary’s Favorite UNESCO World Heritage Sites to Travel toI asked Gary to give me his three favorite sites that he’s visited so far, and you can tell he’s passionate about this list because he didn’t stop at three. One of his favorite types of sites are the old industrial historical sites, like the Rjukan-Notodden Industrial Heritage Site in Norway. And to hear him speak about the Völklingen Ironworks in Saarland, Germany, you know it’s a special place. He told me it reminded him of the last scene in Robocop, and that its steampunk appeal left an impression on him. And you’ll want to listen to him talk about the treasures of Kakadu National Park in Northern Australia.
The Strangest World Heritage SiteI had to ask Gary what the strangest UNESCO World Heritage Site he’s traveled to is, and without much hesitation, he cited Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump in Canada. According to Gary, it’s a cliff in the Canadian plains where the native peoples there would herd the Buffalo by hand and push them off the cliff. Gary noted that it’s one of the few World Heritage Sites to honor the native populations of Canada and the United States, because they built so many of their structures out of perishable materials. And you’ll have to hear Gary talk about which sites were the most befuddling.
The Ins and Outs of World Heritage SitesGary has some incredible stories about the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and has been to some of the most remote places on Earth to see them. He has some interesting insights about why some countries have so many sites, while others have so few, and what places he would really like to see added to the list. If you’re interested in both the natural and cultural heritage of this planet, and finding some of the most intriguing travel destinations on the globe, then you could have no better guide than Gary Arndt.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card. To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post:
Connect With StephaniePatrick Wyman is a historian and podcaster I hold in great regard and I’ve invited him on the show today to discuss the history and prominence of the great Walls of Constantinople and the role they’ve played in the history of the city of Constantinople, now modern day Istanbul. This was a fun conversation where we got to talk not only about the walls themselves but also the history surrounding why they became necessary, which world powers have made attempts to destroy them by laying siege to the city, and what finally happened to the walls through the course of time.
When the capital of Rome moved to Constantinople, defensive measures had to be taken.For many years the city of Rome was the jewel of the empire, but as the eastern portion of the empire became more and more powerful and influential, it became clear that the center of commerce and culture had moved east. Constantine built the city of Constantinople, obviously naming it after himself and the capital of the Roman empire was moved. The city became a hotbed of political power and cultural diversity as a major trade route and defensive measures had to be taken to protect the city from outside forces, namely the Huns. Theodosius II lead the effort to build the walls initially and they were the paragon of Roman engineering and defensive capabilities in their day. Patrick Wyman joins me on this episode to discuss the history and importance of the walls of Constantinople.
The threat of Attila and his Huns was enough to prompt the building of the walls of Constantinople.Attila the Hun was one of the most dominant warlords in all of human history. His forces laid waste to countless fortified cities all across Asia and Eastern Europe and the threat his armies posed prompted the building of the Walls of Constantinople. The walls were an engineering marvel, essentially making the city impregnable as they made use of the city’s location overlooking the water. Patrick Wyman tells how the pressure brought by the Huns motivated Theodosius II to begin the building of the walls and how their strength protected the city for many years, in this episode.
The Walls of Constantinople enabled the city to endure long after the Roman empire was fading.The Roman empire had already been divided and many of its fortified cities destroyed by the time the city of Constantinople was in any serious danger from outside forces. Many attempts had been made but none successful. People who lived inside the city may have felt little impact when outside forces attacked simply because the walls made it so secure. But eventually the Muslim forces attacking during the crusades were able to break through and take the city - but their leaders immediately began rebuilding the walls, knowing the strategic advantage they provided. Today the walls are hardly visible and modern tour guides don’t think them worth pointing out, but their historical significance can’t be understated.
How did the walls of Constantinople finally disappear?There is a bit of mystery concerning what eventually happened to cause the mighty walls of Constantinople to diminish to the rubble they are today. There is little historical record as to what happened to the walls, but my guest on this episode, Patrick Wyman believes the city simply outgrew the walls, their usefulness became less important, and they had to be removed. You can hear our entire conversation about these amazing walls and their impact on the region, on this episode of The History Fangirl.
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card. To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/the-walls-of-constantinople/
This Week’s SponsorThe Acropolis of Athens, Greece, is one of the most recognizable landmarks in all of the world. But to hear Ryan Stitt of The History of Ancient Greece podcast tell it, depending on when you were born, you won’t recognize the same Acropolis as the people who came before. The Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis were built around 460 B.C., and as Ryan tells me in this episode, the controversy over who the Acropolis is for and what it means is still raging on.
The Not-so-Humble Beginnings of the Acropolis of AthensThe Acropolis of Athens is one of the most recognizable historical landmarks in all of the world. Associated with the Golden Age of Greece, it was designed, from the very beginning, to be an ostentatious sight and site. Ryan Stitt, host of the “History of Greece” podcast, told me about how there’s archaeological evidence that people lived on The Acropolis as early as 6000 BC. But the construction of the Parthenon and other temples really took shape around 460 BC. Everything that stands today is from the Classical period. All of the architecture from the archaic times was destroyed during a war with Persia (though some statues were buried, and remained for archaeologists to find).
A Beautiful Tourist Destination, a Perfect BattlegroundThe plateau of the Acropolis made it the perfect place for Athenians to stand and fight for their city-state. As Ryan told me, the Acropolis was alternately attacked by the Phoenicians, the Byzantines and the Ottomans, who all left their cultural touch on the landmark. But after it gained its independence from the Ottomans, the citizenry of Athens was overcome with national pride. And that pride in all things Greek motivated the people to preserve what was built by Greeks, and wove the idea of Ancient Greece into the fabric of their lives, leading up to today, when tourism is still a huge part of the Greek identity.
Pericles Does Work on the AcropolisSo what is left on the Acropolis of Athens, and how did all of this magnificent architecture get built? Once the threat from Persia ended, the famous Athenian leader Pericles began an ambitious building program. Across decades (mostly foreign) workers built the Parthenon, the Rechtheion and the Temple of Athena Nike, among other structures. As Ryan said, the various religious buildings, erected to honor the gods of Ancient Greece, were often adopted by the religions of the dominant culture at any time.
An Ancient Controversy, Still BurningRyan and I discussed what happens once antiquities become “property” of another culture. For instance, an Ottoman sultan sold the beautiful “Elgin Marbles” sculptures of Ancient Greece to a Duke of England in the early 19th century, when the Ottoman Empire occupied Greece. Once Greece won its independence, many felt the antiquities should be returned to the country, though England now claims them as part of their culture, as well. The question of who “owns” ancient artifacts still burns today.
Travel Tips for visiting the Acropolis of AthensRyan has some amazing stories and great tips about traveling to Greece to see the Acropolis. He’s made two trips there, including a monthlong visit on a study abroad program, and he shares his must-sees, as well as the best way to navigate all of the sites of Athens. Even though I got a little jealous of his student pass that gave him discounts on the site visits, this episode is still a must listen for anyone thinking of visiting Athens!
Outline of This EpisodeThe prize for this week is a $20 Amazon gift card. To enter, simply be a newsletter subscriber
and leave a comment on this blog post: https://historyfangirl.com/acropolis-golden-age-athens/
This Week’s SponsorOn one of my recent trips, I did some backpacking through central Europe and I had a wonderful time. But my trip became dramatically better if that’s possible when I entered the city of Ljubljana in Slovenia. The city is magical in the way it is laid out and has the most interesting architecture. I soon found a bookstore and picked up a few books by my guest today, Dr. Noah Charney. He’s an American who now lives in Slovenia and has written several novels set in that part of the world. But his most recent works focus on Ljubljana and in particular, the architect behind its beautiful appearance, Jože Plečnik. In this episode, Dr. Charney and I discuss all things Plečnik and Ljubljana.
How did the city of Ljubljana come to be?Legend tells the tale of the Greek hero Jason, along with his famed companions, the Argonauts, stealing a golden fleece from King Aetes. As they fled, they charted a course across the Black Sea, up the Danube River, Sava River, and Ljubljanica river. At the headwaters of the Ljubljanica river, Jason is said to have fought and killed a magnificent beast there at the lake, what is now known as the Ljubljana Dragon. Historically we know that the first lake dwellings appeared in the area around 2000 BC and the city is first mentioned in written records from 1112 to 1125 BC. It’s a city with a fascinating history and beautiful way of life. It’s one of my favorite places in the world. Join me for this conversation with Dr. Noah Charney, an author and historian who loves the area more than I do. It’s a great conversation filled with interesting tidbits about the region.
Why would an American professor and author move to Slovenia?Dr. Noah Charney is successful in anyone’s book. He’s taught at Cambridge and in a program run by Miami Dade College in Florence, Italy. He’s taught seminars at Yale University and the American University at Rome. But he’s decided to make his home in Slovenia, the place where in the fall of 2012 he received his Ph.D. in Art History from the University of Ljubljana. His decision flowed out of his love for the area, a place he has said is one of the best places in the world to live. In our conversation, you can hear about Dr. Charney’s love for the area and his deep interest in the architecture of Slovene architect Jože Plečnik.
An ancient city rebuilds after a devastating earthquake. They tap a budding new architect for the job.On Easter Sunday, April 14, 1895, the most destructive and last earthquake recorded struck the town of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Measuring 6.1 on the Richter Scale, the city of 31,000 was dramatically impacted, with about 10% of the city's buildings being damaged or destroyed altogether. From 1896 to 1910 the city was slowly rebuilt, a total of 436 new buildings, many of them designed by architect Jože Plečnik. In this conversation, Dr. Noah Charney describes the life of Plečnik before and after being tapped to oversee the redesign of the ancient city and explains why he is one of the brightest architectural minds ever to have come out of Europe.
The ancient city of Ljubljana is now a jewel of central Europe that too few people know about.I listen to a lot of travel podcasts and read many travel blogs and I’m still surprised how little travelers from the west know about Slovenia and its capital, Ljubljana. It’s one of the most unique and interesting places I’ve ever visited and I love the feeling of the city. If you ever get a chance to go, you should. Dr. Noah Charney unpacks the history and intrigue of the city, including in-depth descriptions of its beautiful architecture on this episode, so I hope you listen.
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Connect With StephanieThe story of the Lost City of Petra begins with the story of the Nabataeans, nomadic traders who eventually settled in Edomite territory around 2 B.C. The Nabataeans had traveled everywhere and picked up architectural ideas from the Persians, Greeks, and Romans, and adapted these ideas into something that was uniquely their own. We don’t have a lot of information about the Nabataeans because no self-written history has been found. My guest on today’s podcast, Jane Taylor, describes what we do know about the Nabataeans and their art style, culture, language, the extent of their kingdom, and why they were able to withstand the Romans.
Petra is not the only Nabataean site - You may want to see Mada’in SalehMada’in Saleh, also known as Hegra, in Saudi Arabia, is not as famous as Petra but is still a significant Nabataean site. Mada’in Saleh has a wealth of beautiful tombs carved into the sandstone mountains of the region. On this episode, Jane Taylor tells us about the history of The Lost City of Petra and also describes Mada’in Saleh and the excavations that are being done there, as well as describing some of the challenges for a woman traveling in Saudi Arabia.
Petra was much the same under Roman rule as it was in the reign of the NabataeansWhen the Romans took over the Nabataeans, life actually stayed much the same for the residents of Petra. On this episode, Jane Taylor explains the relationship between the Romans and the people of Petra, and how Petra flourished through the 6th Century. She then describes the gradual decline of Petra, mostly due to trade considerations. The Lost City of Petra has a fascinating history. You can learn about it on today’s episode of The History Fangirl.
How was Petra lost and rediscovered?During the early Crusader period, Petra was clearly regarded as an important center. But after the Crusaders, there is a gap in our knowledge, with no references to Petra from the 14th Century until Swiss explorer John Lewis Burckhardt rediscovered it in 1812. The story of Petra’s rediscovery and the international reaction to it is the subject of my interview with author Jane Taylor on this podcast episode. Listen in to hear about the rediscovery of Petra, stories of some of the early visitors to the site, and what it is like to travel there today.
What is it like to travel to Petra today?Petra is Jane Taylor’s favorite place in the world. You have probably heard of the famous sandstone carved structure, The Treasury. But The Treasury is simply the foretaste of Petra itself. On this episode, listen to Jane describe what it is like to visit Petra, from the mind-blowing scale of the site to the stupendous view from the monastery, to how to negotiate the price of a camel ride. On my visit, I found the aggressive haggling with vendors to be quite a culture shock. Prepare yourself for an amazing trip by listening to Jane’s descriptions of her favorite places and why Petra is her favorite place in the world.
Outline of This EpisodeMost of us have read Homer’s “Iliad” either in high school or college, but few are likely to remember the details of the characters and places it mentions. It may seem surprising to you that I’d be talking about Homer on a history podcast. The reason I am is that Homer used real historical figures as characters in his writing which leads us to the place in the world I'm covering on this episode: Mycenae, or as it’s often referred to, “Agamemnon’s Mycenae.” In this episode, my guest is John Bennet, director of the British School at Athens. We discuss the historical Agamemnon from literature, the discovery of his mask and tomb, and how the historic Mycenaean people compare to their portrayal in literature. It’s a fascinating conversation so I hope you’ll join me.
Agamemnon’s Mycenae was a leading city and military stronghold.Mycenae is not a city that had to be discovered in order for it to be researched. Its location has been known right up until the modern era. Archeological work has revealed that it was a leading city of Greece in its day. It was clearly a military stronghold, including a citadel and town. John Bennet has spent a good deal of time at the site and is a wealth of information when it comes to what we know about the city and its inhabitants. I thoroughly enjoyed my conversation with him and discovered some fascinating facts about its history as well as the history of the people involved in its excavation. You’ll enjoy our conversation.
A Greek city for the elite, including a palace and ancestral tombs.The city of Mycenae is still quite impressive to this day, even though it’s only ruins. From all that can be known it is fairly clear that the city was one of the largest cities in mainland Greece at the time, only eclipsed by Thebes (and not by much). It was a city for the elite, with a palace and many elaborate ancestral tombs. There are still remains of less impressive but still elaborate households surrounding the main structures of the city. Cities like this give a glimpse into what it must have been like to be a citizen of the Greek empire at its height. John Bennet knows these sites as well as anyone so I encourage you to hear his description of the history, people, and culture of what is known as Agamemnon’s Mycenae.
By 1200 B.C. Mycenae was no longer renewed as a military stronghold.It’s clear from history that the city of Mycenae continued to be inhabited even after it’s military stronghold was no longer in use. Though the population dwindled considerably the city remained a city-state in the same ways as places like Athens and Sparta were - all the way to 468 B.C. Mycenae was even included in the cities that opposed the Persians when they invaded in 468 B.C. John shares a good deal on this episode about the way of life in the city from its founding until it was no longer inhabited. It’s a very interesting part of Greek history.
What happened to make Mycenae uninhabited?It’s always curious why a city that was once as palatial and large as Mycenae becomes uninhabited. Surely, with the rise and fall of empires, there are many possibilities. John says that there is evidence that around 1250 B.C. there was some kind of wide-spread burning that happened in the city, possibly the result of an earthquake. The city was then refortified and around 1200 B.C. some other sort of destruction happened. By 1100 B.C. Mycenae was a very small site and few people were living in palaces or inside of walls. In 468 B.C. it was destroyed by neighbors from the city of Argos, at which time it became a ruin. John and I talked more about the city, including what it’s like today as an archeological site and what you should be certain to see if you visit.
Outline of This EpisodeThis Episode’s Giveaway:
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Connect With StephanieThe West Bank Separation Wall has not been as famously identified to those who live in other parts of the world as the Berlin Wall was, but it’s just as obvious a reminder of the history of hostility and tension that exist in the West Bank. It’s a dividing wall that cuts through the landscape, separating Palestine from Israel and has a very long and complicated history. In this episode I chat with Tamer Halaseh of Tamer Tours about the West Bank Separation Wall, why he includes it and related sites on his tours of the area, and about tourism in the West Bank in general. It’s a fascinating conversation that dispels many of the myths about the area.
Can you imagine living with an enormous, unsightly wall running through your neighborhood?Palestinian and Israeli people who live in or near the West Bank are continually reminded of the history of conflict that has divided the two people groups by the presence of The West Bank Dividing Wall. You don’t get the full impact the wall has on the area until you are there to see it for yourself. When I visited the area I was told about the history and situation in the West Bank by my tour guide, Tamer Halaseh and felt that his knowledge and understanding of the situation merited me inviting him to share with you on the podcast. This episode is a small taste of what I experienced through my visit and my time learning from Tamer. It should provide you with insight into the situation there that you won’t hear otherwise.
It’s easy to take sides in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict without knowing the facts.When I visited Israel and the West Bank I was able to get to know the feeling of the land and the culture on both sides of the divide. My tour guide, Tamer Halaseh was instrumental in me gaining an understanding of the grievances each side in the conflict has had with the other, from a historical perspective. It’s not as easy as making a snap judgment based on initial perceptions and with the continued actions taken in the situation, it gets more complicated all the time. You can hear some of the things I learned from Tamer on this episode and begin your own journey toward understanding.
The West Bank Separation Wall is a thorn in the midst of a beautiful land.It’s painful for me to remember the ominous feeling of the massive wall that winds its way through an otherwise beautiful landscape. It’s a constant reminder of tension - but Tamer tells me it also serves to remind the people of the West Bank that they must learn to move on, to live in happiness and strength in spite of the presence of the wall and all that it represents. His attitude is an example of the resilient and resourceful people of the area and shows how they endure in spite of a history of conflict. You’ll enjoy getting to know Tamer on this episode.
What is it like for Westerners to visit the West Bank?There are many things you hear about the West Bank when preparing to visit that are either misinformed or no longer relevant. You do need to have your passport with you at all times but it’s not an oppressive experience at all. There are a rich culture and historical experience awaiting anyone who wants to visit and it is not dangerous as you may be led to believe. In this conversation, you’ll learn how tourism is thriving in the area and how people like Tamer, my guest on this episode, are making the industry both safe and enriching for those who visit. I hope you’ll listen and learn along with me.
Outline of This EpisodeDon’t forget to click on the ad to the right to get the offer from this week’s sponsor: Audible.
Connect With StephanieThere seem to always be interesting intersections between history and art, and in this episode of The History Fangirl, we dig a bit into one of those crossings, the life of Margaret Mitchell, author of Gone With The Wind. Margaret wrote her landmark novel in the 1930s, a time when women did not have the right to vote and race relations in her hometown of Atlanta were at a very low point - and she used her book to address the issues the nation was facing, to great acclaim. In this conversation, I chat with Jessica van Landuyt of The Atlanta History Center about the life, work, and impact of Margaret Mitchell.
Want to know how to make the most of a bad situation? Ask the author of Gone With The Wind.Margaret Mitchell had begun a career as a journalist and was working to become a writer known for in-depth, hard-hitting news stories, but was brought to a halt by an injury and confinement to her home. For a short time, she struggled to know what to do with herself but then turned to reading and finally writing. That season led to the birth of Gone With The Wind and over the next 3 years she compiled a manuscript that stood as tall as her when it was completed and sent off to the publisher. In this conversation, I talk with Jessica van Landuyt about Margaret’s undefeatable spirit, the way she came to write her novel, and the impact it had on the culture of her day and beyond.
Margaret Mitchell denied having written Gone With the Wind when asked by a publisher.It’s not entirely clear why, but when Margaret Mitchell was first “outed” by one of her friends as having written a novel, she denied it to the publisher’s face. But before their meeting was over the publisher left on a train with boxes of paper - her first draft manuscript of Gone With The Wind. Once he was able to read the story he was immediately convinced the book was worthy of publication and it became an instant best-seller. Margaret’s life and writing are equally fascinating and on this episode of The History Fangirl Jessica van Landuyt shares about the years Margaret and her husband lived in an apartment Margaret referred to as “the dump” but is now known as “The Margaret Mitchell House” - part of the collection of exhibits at the central campus of The Atlanta History Center.
Why was a sequel to Gone With The Wind never written?The way Gone With The Wind ends, it’s almost a foregone conclusion that the author, Margaret Mitchell had a sequel in mind. But it’s unclear that was ever the case. There are records of her writing in response to fan questions about that issue, something to the effect of “How can I write another book when I cannot deal with this one?” The volumes of fan mail she received and the fame she experienced nationwide and as a celebrity in her hometown of Atlanta kept her quite occupied. It’s no wonder a sequel was never written. In this conversation, my guest Jessica van Landuyt and I chat about the difficulty of dealing with fame, how Margaret’s success led her into philanthropy, and more. Don’t miss it.
Outline of This EpisodeShow Notes: https://historyfangirl.comhttps://historyfangirl.com/margaret-mitchel…ne-with-the-wind/
Music Credit: "Places Unseen" by Lee Rosevere available at http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Lee_Rosevere/Music_For_Podcasts_2/Lee_Rosevere_-_Music_for_Podcasts_2_-_01_Places_Unseen
It’s hard for me to describe how much I love Rila Monastery. I sat down with Eric Halsey, the host of the “Bulgarian History Podcast” to talk about this amazing 10th century Byzantine Monastery, located in the Rila Mountains, near Sofia, Bulgaria. I have visited Rila Monastery on several occasions, so I welcomed the chance to hear more about the history of Bulgaria, how this place came to be, and how the monastery became a symbol of pride and resiliency for the Bulgarian People. I hope this conversation motivates you to visit the monastery for yourself. It’s an amazing place!
Bulgaria's Most Famous MonasteryRising out of the forested valleys of the Rila Mountains, I can think of no place more significant to the country of Bulgaria than Rila Monastery. Eric shared with me that what is now considered the holiest, most monastic place in Bulgaria was founded at a time when the country was working to establish its own independent church, but also struggling with leadership transitions and trying to recover from a long history of warfare with surrounding nations. I asked Eric to explain how the religious issues present at that time influenced the Bulgarian people to begin practicing a simpler form of worship, a key factor in the rise of monasteries around Bulgaria. His knowledge on the subject helped to frame a complete picture of the story behind Rila Monastery that you’ll find intriguing.
Meteora and Bulgaria’s Transition To OrthodoxyI asked Eric about the connection of Meteora, a series of famous Greek monasteries in the region, and their connection to Bulgaria’s transition to orthodoxy. These monasteries have been featured in several movies, including a James Bond film, as well as the network series “Game of Thrones.” He stated that at this time, Bulgaria may have been one of the first countries in the area to practice Orthodoxy or Christianity. I learned that until this point, Christianity in the region had primarily come from Byzantine influence, so it was not fully accepted when Tsar Boris made it the official state religion. In contrast to the Patriarchal, Imperial form of religion that centered around the emperor, the monasteries, like Rila Monastery reflected a humble, unassuming nature. Often, these monasteries were built in remote places, so many of them have the look and feel of a small fortress, capable of defending against raiders.
The Glue That Held Bulgaria TogetherAfter spending a few months in Bulgaria, it was clear to me that the country is not overly religious, which I found to be slightly odd, as the churches and monasteries seem to be held in high regard, and many citizens practiced religious rituals a few times a year. I asked Eric if he could shed some light on this cultural anomaly. He explained that much of Bulgaria’s identity was formed as a result of this semi-autonomous orthodoxy, separate from the hierarchy that existed in Constantinople at the time. As a result, he pointed out that this once nomadic tribe was able to establish their own identity. They settled on a common language and had been granted positions of authority, such as a Tsar. The religious rituals and practice helped to unify the people. Today, it is understood that religious rituals are performed if for no other reason than “That’s what Bulgarians do.”
What’s it like to Visit Rila Monastery?For anyone who is planning a trip to Bulgaria, I would 100% recommend adding Rila Monastery to your itinerary. The ground still function as an active monastery, so you will see monks who live there, as well as people who run the museum and several of the restaurants close by. I would recommend hiring a tour guide the first time you go, as there are several areas of interest, including a large collection of 19th century fresco paintings. The main complex reflects a 19th-century neo-byzantine style, which is very ornamental in nature, comparable to that of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, located in Sofia. You can actually stay at the monastery for a small cost. I highly recommend this, as it gives you more time to wander around on your own, and take in all that this amazing place has to offer. But until you are able to visit, join me for this conversation with Eric Halsey. It’s the next best thing.
Outline of This EpisodeOne of the places I toured while in Italy was the area in and surrounding the Roman Forum. It’s a central part of early Roman history that is sadly little more than a pile of ruins today. But the Forum was once the center of Roman life, both politically and socially. My guest today is Mike Duncan, host of two great podcasts - “The History of Rome” and “Revolutions.” Mike is a history buff like me who began learning the history of the Roman empire through pleasure reading. When he started looking for a podcast about Rome and found there were none in existence, he decided to begin the first Roman history podcast himself. This is a fun conversation between Mike and me so be sure you take the time to listen.
What was the Roman Forum used for?In the earlier stages of the Roman Empire, the Forum was a very crowded, much-used area of central Rome. It was the center of all political activity as well as a social center for all things Rome. Were you able to visit in ancient days you’d enter a rectangular plaza with government buildings surrounding it. Triumphal processions took place there as would public speeches, criminal trials, and some gladiatorial competitions. But it was also the center of commerce and a place where you’d find many religious shrines and statues. Mike Duncan describes the Roman Forum and what it would have been like to be there in ancient days, on this episode of The History Fangirl.
The Roman Forum is an example of the brick-based architecture that existed prior to the gleaming white marble we think of.When we think of ancient Rome we typically picture the white marble columns and gleaming white walls of enormous buildings. But at the time the Forum was constructed the main material used for building was brick. That knowledge gives a very different feeling to the images of what it must have been like to make a visit to the Roman Forum in its heyday. In those days it was the birthplace of the Roman Senate and a much-honored location in the city. Join me and my guest Mike Duncan for a fascinating conversation about the history and use of the Roman Forum.
When the Roman Caesars took over, most citizens were happy about it.Most of us know about at least two distinct stages of the Roman Empire - the years of the Republic and the years of Imperial Rome when the Caesars ruled. What most people don’t know is that the reason the Caesars were able to come to power is that the Roman Senate had become much maligned and quite ineffective. The people of Rome were tired of a system mired in corruption and political favoritism and welcomed the idea of a simplified form of rule, albeit a dictatorship. Mike Duncan shares how the transition happened and what it meant for life in the nation on this episode.
The reason we study history is to make better decisions.Mike Duncan calls himself a practical historian. He’s interested in the dates and events of the ancient past because he believes they help us navigate our own course with greater wisdom. In this episode, he says that we study history in order to make better decisions, and we do that by learning about the triumphs, mistakes, and events of the past. Mike and I also talk about his new book, why he wrote it, and what he hopes readers will glean not only about Rome of the past but about our lives here in the the present.
Outline of This EpisodeMusic Credit: "Places Unseen" by Lee Rosevere available at http://freemusicarchive.org/music/Lee_Rosevere/Music_For_Podcasts_2/Lee_Rosevere_-_Music_for_Podcasts_2_-_01_Places_Unseen
This episode is a quick intro to the History Fangirl Podcast, an interview podcast about great historic places for the history enthusiast or future traveler.
Stephanie Craig is a history and travel blogger. She writes at historyfangirl.com.