In April 1989, climbers Jim Sweeney and Dave Nyman embarked on a challenging ascent of the Elevator Shaft on Mount Johnson in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska. Their expedition took a perilous turn when Sweeney, leading the climb, experienced a harrowing fall due to a collapsing formation. The incident resulted in a fractured right hip for Sweeney.
Facing treacherous conditions, Nyman initiated an extraordinary self-rescue mission, spending six hours lowering the injured Sweeney to safety. The climbers encountered multiple avalanches, losing crucial gear, and enduring extreme conditions. Nyman's subsequent attempt to seek help faced unforeseen challenges, further complicating their dire situation.
As their ordeal unfolded, a plane piloted by Mark Niver inadvertently entered the scene, leading to a crash. Niver and his passengers, undeterred by the crash, became unwitting witnesses to the climbers' struggle. The situation took an unexpected turn when the climbers faced additional avalanches, losing more gear and battling the elements.
The story underscores the critical importance of communication tools in remote climbs, as the absence of radios significantly impacted the rescue process. Ultimately, a complex rescue mission involving helicopters and skilled mountaineers led to the safe evacuation of Sweeney and Nyman on April 26. The climbers' resilience, coupled with a stroke of luck, played a crucial role in their survival.
In this podcast episode, we sit down with Mark Niver, the pilot whose unplanned presence became a pivotal element in this gripping tale of survival and resilience. Join us as we delve into the details of this harrowing adventure, exploring the challenges faced by climbers in remote terrains and the unforeseen events that can shape the course of such expeditions. This story was turned into an episode of "I Shouldn't Be Alive", link is below.
I grew up in Minnesota, loved to hunt and fish. My father took me to Alaska at the age of 13 to go on a mountain goat hunt. I knew right then and there if I ever got the chance to come to Alaska I would.
Three years later I came back and worked in a fish processing plant in Bristolbay Bay Alaska for a summer job.
Then after high school in Minnesota I drove to Alaska to try and find employment. Landed a job with BP at their oilfield in Prudhoe Bay.
Three years later I also started commercial fishing in Bristolbay during my vacation time from the oilfield.
In the meantime I learned to fly at the age of 19.
Got married and raised three boys, who all started fishing with me on my boat at the age of 10.
Also managed to race the Iron Dog snow machine race 4 times…. It’s a 2200 mile race through the heart of Alaska.
I retired from the oilfield but continue to commercial fish now.
I’m 65 years old , still running the human race …..:)
Here is the link to the "I Shouldn't Be Alive" episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_ykz3ktlbI
Here is a detailed article to give you some background information on the story: https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13199002000/Fall-on-Ice-Avalanches-No-Radio-Alaska-Mount-Johnson
Thank you SO SO SO much for listening and supporting us. I love you all!! Have a great week.
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