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    Arts

    The Business of Fashion Podcast

    The Business of Fashion has gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 200 countries. It is frequently described as “indispensable,” “required reading” and “an addiction.”


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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    Latest Episodes:
    Lessons in World-Building: How Emily Oberg Created Sporty & Rich Jun 06, 2025
    Show notes

    Emily grew up far away from the fashion world in Calgary, Canada. After moving to New York for a role at the media company Complex, Oberg quickly built her profile as a tastemaker in the streetwear scene.


    But eventually, she got the entrepreneurial itch and leveraged her experience to turn Sporty & Rich, which started as a mood board on Instagram, into a multi-million-dollar brand with a dedicated community following.


    "I think people want to be part of anything that's aspirational. Our sweatshirts are $150, it's not like we're selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle in the world that we have built."


    In conversation with BoF founder Imran Amed, Oberg reflects on her unconventional path, her strategic business choices, and the significance of creating an aspirational lifestyle through her brand.



    Key Insights:


    • Sporty & Rich started as an Instagram mood board where Oberg began experimenting with different products like magazines, hats, and crewnecks to gauge interest for a brand. To scale without raising capital, Oberg turned to pre-orders. "If we didn't do pre-order, we couldn't have run a business," she says. “We did a crewneck and it made $600,000 in a day,” she says of a drop during the pandemic. “That was a big moment for us because we were like, 'Wow, we can really scale this with just one product.'”


    • Oberg thrives in uncertainty and credits her ability to adapt as one key to her success. “I think I like risk because where it scares most people, it kind of excites me and it gives me that feeling of being uncomfortable – I really like that feeling,” she explains. Reflecting on her experience moving to LA and launching Sporty & Rich, she adds: “I was excited and I had a trust in myself that I would always figure it out. So I think when you have that, you know that you'll be okay and there's like nothing to really worry about.”


    • Oberg is candid about her business blind spots.She surrounds herself with experts in operations, production, and finance to keep the business growing. “I don’t know how to do everything,” she says. “I just know what I like and what I want things to look like.”


    • Sporty & Rich isn’t just about clothing. Their New York flagship includes a café, spa, — and soon, a gym — offering a full expression of the brand’s values. “It's not necessarily about the monetary things and money and the rich lifestyle. That's a part of it but I think there’s this greater sense of living a full life and I think anything that's aspirational people want to be part of,” she says. “Our sweatshirts are $150; it’s not like we’re selling a $10,000 handbag, but I think that shirt represents the lifestyle and the world that we’ve built.”


    Additional Resources:

    • For Some Labels, Drops Are Still Working When Nothing Else Is | BoF
    • How and When Brands Should Say 'I’m Sorry’ | BoF
    • Can You Sell Sexual Wellness Without Sex? | BoF

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Why Hailey Bieber Won the Celebrity Beauty Lottery Jun 03, 2025
    Show notes

    Bieber, a celebrity and influential beauty figure with a strong Gen-Z following, launched Rhode just three years ago, quickly distinguishing the brand with minimalist product offerings closely tied to Bieber's personal aesthetic. She just sold to E.l.f. Beauty for $1 billion, even as rival celebrity beauty brands struggle to grow sales or attract buyers.


    Priya Rao, executive editor at The Business of Beauty at BoF, joins the Business of Fashion's Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to discuss how Rhode distinguished itself in a crowded celebrity beauty landscape, why E.l.f. Beauty saw strategic value in the acquisition, and what this landmark deal signals about the evolving beauty industry.


    Key Insights:



    • Rhode’s clean, minimal brand aesthetic also mirrors e.l.f.’s broader mission, albeit at a different price point. "There’s something about Rhode’s branding that really makes sense with what E.l.f. already does. They both want to be accessible but aspirational," Rao notes. Like Rhode, "E.l.f. has always had a really good sense of what young people want," says Rao.


    • The success of Rhode demonstrates that differentiated, clearly communicated value propositions continue to resonate strongly in the beauty market. "From the consumer side, this just shows that the right brand can find the right price at any time, as long as you're able to point and show you offer something different," explains Rao.


    • Rao highlights how rare it is for a celebrity beauty brand to resonate beyond hype. "Most celebrity beauty brands are not succeeding at this level," she says. Rhode’s limited and focused product assortment have also contributed to its success. "She's not launching everything under the sun," says Rao. "She’s focusing on what she knows and what her audience connects with, and that’s why it’s working."


    • The acquisition isn't just about short-term gain – E.l.f. sees lasting value. "This isn't a flash in the pan for them," says Rao. "They’re betting on Rhode being a long-term growth engine, not just a trendy pick-up."


    Additional Resources:

    • E.l.f. Beauty Acquires Hailey Bieber’s Rhode Skin for $1 Billion | BoF


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Giancarlo Giammetti on Securing Valentino’s Legacy May 30, 2025
    Show notes

    Giancarlo Giammetti met Valentino Garavani by chance on July 31, 1960, setting in motion one of fashion’s most enduring — and most successful — creative partnerships. Together, they transformed Valentino into a global fashion powerhouse, celebrated for its elegance, craftsmanship, and cultural influence.


    In 2016, Giammetti co-founded the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti to preserve their remarkable legacy, promote creativity, and foster charitable and educational initiatives.


    This week in Rome, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed had the honour of sitting down with Mr Giammetti at PM23, the newly opened home of the foundation, located right next to the Valentino headquarters where their journey together first began.


    In this exclusive interview, Mr Giammetti reflects on the founding days of Valentino, the importance of protecting creativity in a fashion market that prioritises commercialisation, and why it is critical for the industry to support future generations of designers who are overlooked by a fashion system under pressure.


    “This continuous change of people, using people to cover jobs … it makes a big confusion. None of them really becomes a part of the legacy of the company. That’s what is a big problem today,” says Giammetti.


    Key Insights:


    • Giammetti highlights the strength of his decades-long partnership with Valentino, emphasising their deep personal and professional connection. “We grew up related so much to each other that we cannot be separate,” he says. “Even when we had some rupture in our private life, after a while, we kept our family. That’s why we have such a big family – because all of our friends became friends of our family with us.”


    • Giammetti expresses concern about the fashion industry's current state, noting the disconnect between creative integrity and business pressures. "Designers have become their own stars, they have their own style, and they don’t want to really become a witness to the work of the companies where they are hired to prolong life – they want to work for themselves," he says. "It’s not just negative, it’s offensive."


    • Giammetti believes in preserving the heritage of fashion through new means. “I hate fashion museums. I think that to see all the mannequins like Madame Tussauds look really like wax things. I don’t think there is a life inside,” he says. “With digital work, you have to work with that to project your legacy in a different way.”


    • Giving advice to aspiring creatives, Giammetti encourages young designers to remain true to themselves and avoid distractions. "Be yourself. Don't get distracted. You have to believe in yourself and do what you want."


    Additional Resources:

    • ‘Beauty Creates Beauty’: Valentino Founders Tease New Cultural Space in Rome | BoF


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Beauty Is in Its Flop Era May 27, 2025
    Show notes

    The beauty sector historically thrived during economic downturns, earning a recession-proof reputation encapsulated in the “lipstick index.” However, recent earnings from major beauty conglomerates like Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, Coty and Shiseido indicate that beauty’s resilience is being tested. Sales are declining, layoffs are coming and consumer habits appear to be shifting dramatically.


    BoF Senior Beauty Correspondent Daniela Morosini joins Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young on The Debrief to examine what's driving this slowdown and how the industry is adapting.


    Key Insights:


    • Traditionally, small luxury purchases like beauty products thrived during economic pressure. But the landscape has changed. “Prices have really, really grown, and there's just so much more to choose from,” says Morosini. The combination of escalating prices, excessive market saturation, and a shift to online platforms like Amazon and TikTok has diluted the impact of small luxury indulgences. "It's really hard to get seen. So even if you have a more affordable product that more people can afford, you still have to get people to come and look at you and come and interact with you," she adds.


    • Brands once benefited from consistent replenishment and customer loyalty. Today, consumers are more transient, constantly seeking newness. “Customers seem to have this insatiable appetite for more products and more newness,” Morosini notes. But after years of heavy consumption, shoppers are starting to tire of new for the sake of new. “Something that’s really starting to come into focus is that, specifically, American middle-class shoppers are starting to buy fewer beauty products – and that’s having a big knock-on effect.”


    • As consumers become more price-sensitive, brands need to redefine value beyond just pricing. Morosini suggests brands return to basics, emphasising their core strengths and fostering loyalty through consistent, quality products rather than frequent launches. "People are really, really attuned to perceptions of value," says Morosini.


    Additional Resources:

    • The Beauty Slowdown, Explained | BoF
    • The End of the Lipstick Index | BoF


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Inside The Great Luxury Reset May 23, 2025
    Show notes

    Instead of his usual place in the host’s seat, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed appears this week as a guest in an interview with Jonathan Wingfield, editor-in-chief of System Magazine, alongside Luca Solca, senior research analyst at Bernstein – as featured in the debut issue of System Collections.


    This conversation was recorded on March 14, about two weeks before Donald Trump’s shock announcement of so-called reciprocal tariffs on countries around the world, most notably China.

    Together, Amed and Solca explore major shifts in the global luxury market, the growing fatigue with high prices and mass production, and why creativity, innovation and strategic alignment between business and creative leadership are more crucial than ever.


    “These companies are run by human beings, and if you don't give people incentives to change, they will kill you. If you see that you're making as much money as you like, and the business is as good as it ever was, then you probably will not change very much,” says Solca. “Adjusting to a more normal environment is causing a lot of soul-searching and getting these companies back in line.”


    Amed adds: “Where brands work best is where there is that impeccable alignment between the creative leadership and the business leadership. Many creative directors feel like a lot of decision-making and creativity is being dictated to them rather than being in conversation with them."


    Key Insights:


    • Excessive price hikes and product ubiquity are causing consumer pushback. Amed says, "When customers look at a €10,000 bag that used to cost half of that, there's real pressure because the value proposition no longer adds up." Solca stresses, "If people need to pay these prices, they must be excited; they need to feel they haven’t seen these products yet, and that they desire them." Amed adds, "Brands need to inject new creative energy to get customers excited again."


    • In a stagnant market, luxury brands can no longer rely on organic demand and must compete aggressively for market share. "In order to grow now, brands need to actively win market share from competitors," says Amed. This shift has forced operational changes. "Fashion shows are getting smaller, not just for intimacy, but also to cut costs." Solca agrees: "A lot of the costs in this industry are fixed ... When sales decline by as much as 20 percent, you really need to cut the fixed portion of your costs."


    • Maintaining exclusivity remains essential. Solca notes, "The nature of the industry is that you need to sell exclusivity or perceived exclusivity." He warns high visibility can backfire: "Smaller brands hit gold, but at one point, they succumb to that very success because they become too visible and people move elsewhere. They tend to face a glass ceiling around €2 to 3 billion."


    • Effective luxury strategies hinge on strong creative-business collaboration. As Amed explains, "Where brands work best is where there is that impeccable alignment between the creative leadership and the business leadership."



    Additional Resources:

    • System Launches New Bi-Annual ‘System Collections’ | BoF
    • Inside Luxury’s Slowdown | BoF
    • The State of Fashion: Luxury | BoF

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    How Fashion Brands Build Community in 2025 May 20, 2025
    Show notes

    As inflation bites and politics polarise, the fashion industry in 2025 is facing unprecedented pressure to hold onto its customers. Brands are looking to community as a deeper and more emotional form of engagement. But building true community takes more than buzzwords.


    In this episode, BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi joins hosts Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin to unpack his case study on what it really means to cultivate community in fashion and how brands are navigating the pitfalls.


    Key Insights:


    • In a time when consumers are thinking hard about every purchase, community offers a sense of connection and meaning that goes beyond the product itself. "When I'm shopping today, I'm thinking more about what eggs I'm going to buy this week than the latest release from a brand," says Takanashi. "What really now drives me to make a purchase is like, what does this brand represent? What are its values? How has it improved my life beyond just something I wear?"


    • Different communities serve different purposes, each demanding a unique approach. Takanashi outlines three community types: activity-based, personality-driven and values-driven. Activity-based communities are rooted in shared interests or habits, such as running, where engagement happens naturally through events or clubs. Personality-driven communities hinge on a founder’s charisma and relatability: "People have to see that founder story and kind of see themselves in their shoes." Values-driven communities connect through shared beliefs and causes, but those values must be dynamic. “Your definition of a value can’t be rigid,” says Takanashi. “You have to adapt to how consumers perceive these things.”


    • As brands grow, scaling community takes local focus to remain authentic. "As long as you stay committed to a localized approach and understand that it’s not one size fits all," Takanashi says, pointing to Arc'teryx and Supreme as examples of brands that scale through local relevance and hiring. In addition to staying local, real-world interaction matters and brands shouldn’t rely solely on digital engagement. “You should really be there in person at pop-ups, shake hands with people, talk to the customer... Every brand I spoke about in this case study made some effort to show up in real life."


    Additional Resources:

    • Case Study | How Brands Build Genuine Communities | BoF
    • What Makes a True Community Brand? | BoF
    • How Brands Make Community More Than a Buzzword | BoF

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Redefining "Made in Africa" May 16, 2025
    Show notes

    Africa is experiencing an exciting shift, creatively and commercially, with growing global attention on its rapidly expanding middle-class population. Yet, local fashion entrepreneurs must navigate unique operational challenges and misconceptions about the quality and reputation of "Made in Africa."


    Pink Mango’s Maryse Mbonyumutwa entered apparel manufacturing in Rwanda to address both economic and social sustainability. "[Africa] is sustainable by nature, as we've not fully industrialised yet," he says.


    Laduma Ngxokolo, founder of South African luxury knitwear brand MaXhosa Africa, drew inspiration from his culture's traditional designs: "How do we take local traditional aesthetics and modernise them?" he asked.


    To celebrate African creativity, Reni Folawiyo founded the concept store Alara in Nigeria. "I started Alara from a very emotional place to elevate African creators, both on the continent and the diaspora," Folawiyo says. "The idea of elevating but also empowering remains in everything we do."


    On this episode of The BoF Podcast, an illuminating conversation unfolds on stage at BoF CROSSROADS 2025, where Mbonyumutwa, Ngxokolo, and Folawiyo, alongside Sudanese-British writer Rozan Ahmed, discussed Africa's unique contributions to fashion, the opportunities in sustainable manufacturing, and how they are redefining what it means to produce, create and sell in Africa.



    Key Insights:


    • Africa's potential lies in sustainable manufacturing and social responsibility. Mbonyumutwa explains, "Africa is here to offer social sustainability ... to make sure that now when we talk about environmental sustainability and social sustainability they are aligned."


    • Local retail can powerfully celebrate and elevate global African creativity. Folawiyo's vision for Alara was clear. "I started Alara in a very emotional place. I wanted to celebrate African creators, both on the continent and in the diaspora. I wanted to elevate their work, because I hadn't seen it done anywhere else," she says. “It was a self-empowerment, self-determination moment and I wanted it to be celebratory.”


    • "Made in Africa" must represent prestige, not affordability. Ngxokolo says, "It's not cheap, yet there's a perception that anything that is made in Africa should be reasonably priced or cheap. We put in our heart and souls into our work and present it to the world so that it sits next to their level of brands.”


    Additional Resources:

    • BoF CROSSROADS 2025: How to Tap into Fashion’s Future Growth Markets
    • Designed, Made and Sold in Africa | BoF CROSSROADS 2025 | Youtube


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Bonus: The Trade War’s Off, For Now. What's Next for Fashion? May 15, 2025
    Show notes

    On May 12, the US and China reached a deal to temporarily reduce tariffs for 90 days, offering a breather from an escalating trade war. Stocks surged on the news, but experts warn this relief might not fully resolve deeper industry uncertainties or consumer anxieties.


    BoF retail editor Cathleen Chen and technology correspondent Marc Bain join hosts Brian Baskin and Sheena Butler-Young to unpack the ramifications of the tariff pause and what the fashion industry can expect moving forward.


    Key Insights:


    • Tariffs have reduced, but costs still remain high. The Trump administration’s initial 145 percent tariff effectively banned imports from China, a situation now alleviated but not fully resolved. "Lowering that to 30% is a different situation," Bain explains. "It's saying, go ahead, import your stuff, but it's gonna still be expensive."


    • The tariff pause offers temporary clarity, but major production hubs like Vietnam and Cambodia face continuing uncertainty. "Depending on what happens with those negotiations, the whole landscape could shift," Bain notes, as retailers remain cautious about long-term production decisions.


    • Tariffs are not the industry's only concern as consumer sentiment will significantly shape demand. "Beyond what's going to happen with tariffs with dozens of countries, there's also the issue of consumer confidence and sentiment and whether there will be demand to drive sales for the products that do end up in the U.S.," Chen highlights, questioning the robustness of future sales.


    • Despite an easing in the tariff rate for small shipments from platforms like Shein and Temu, the overall uncertainty around the future of the “de minimis” loophole might dampen consumer enthusiasm. "All the news about Shein and Temu has been enough to just keep that customer away," Chen suggests. "I feel like there might be this attitude of, we had a good run of really cheap stuff for a couple of years and maybe you've had enough of it now."


    • Brands should focus on diversifying their supply chains and strengthening industry partnerships. Bain advises brands to "have some redundancy built in. So if one location becomes untenable, you can shift to another spot." Meanwhile, Chen emphasises the importance of collaboration: "Now is a really great time to forge stronger ties to your suppliers, your vendors, even your retail partners," ensuring shared responsibility and minimised impact on consumers.


    Additional Resources:

    • With the Trade War on Pause, Here’s What’s Next for Fashion | BoF


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    TikTok, Tariffs and Luxury's Fake News Problem May 13, 2025
    Show notes

    A strange new genre of TikTok videos is challenging long-held assumptions about how luxury products are made. Often shot in anonymous Chinese factories, these videos claim that the so-called "superfakes" flooding the market are indistinguishable from, and sometimes made in the same factories as, high-end bags from the likes of Chanel or Louis Vuitton.


    While all evidence points to these claims being false, the repetition of these videos has amplified a growing narrative: that luxury pricing is inflated, quality is slipping and production secrets are being exposed. Fuelled further by the U.S.-China tariff dispute and the allure of buying a $10,000 bag for $300, this narrative is resonating with a social media audience increasingly disillusioned with luxury’s mystique.


    In this episode, BoF's chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent joins hosts Sheena Butler-Young and Brian Baskin to break down what’s really happening behind the scenes – and why silence might not be a viable strategy for brands much longer.


    Key Insights:


    • TikTok's "superfake" narrative may be fiction, but it's feeding real consumer doubt. While only a few viral TikTok videos explicitly claim to produce fakes in the same factories as luxury goods, that idea has travelled widely and taken root. "It is supremely unlikely that any factory that had a real relationship with any luxury brand would go on TikTok to market superfakes," Kent notes. Yet the repetition of these claims underscores luxury's ongoing transparency issue. In the absence of accessible facts, falsehoods thrive.


    • Today’s best craftsmanship isn’t always in Europe as high-quality manufacturing has shifted globally. “For instance, if you were making performance footwear or sneakers in particular, China, Cambodia, and Vietnam are probably the best factories you can find in the world to do that,” Kent explains. “If you want to make a luxury product of that quality, you probably don’t want to make that in France or Italy."


    • The fake bag narrative is irresistible but damaging to luxury. Even those who know the claims are likely untrue find them hard to shake. "It's a delicious narrative," Kent says. One that plays into an existing story of overpricing, declining quality, and aloofness in luxury. Brands have long relied on mythology and mystique. But as Kent notes, that strategy is less effective in a social media age, where misinformation travels fast and reputations can erode overnight.


    • Consumers are questioning whether luxury is worth the price and Kent says consumer doubt "isn’t going away". Luxury brands need to explain more clearly why their products carry such high price tags to slow this erosion of trust that has accelerated since the pandemic, as prices rose and quality concerns mounted. "If brands aren't giving compelling information that explains where their stuff is made and why it’s valued in this manner then those questions aren't going to fade," Kent warns.


    Additional Resources:

    • Luxury Has a Fake News Problem. Is Silence the Right Strategy? | BoF


    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


    Modest Fashion at a Crossroads May 09, 2025
    Show notes

    It's a pivotal moment for modest fashion. Spending by Muslim consumers on fashion is projected to hit $428 billion by 2027, marking significant annual growth. Yet despite booming demand, modest fashion remains commercially fragmented and struggles for global recognition.


    Emirati fashion designer Rabia Zargarpur founded her namesake brand after confronting the severe lack of modest clothing options in post-9/11 America.


    "In 2000, you couldn't even find modest basics," Zargarpur says. "That was a huge aha moment for me. We are so neglected. Why isn't there a single label catering to the needs of our women? And so I took charge and created my brand."


    Kerim Türe, founder of the Istanbul-based modest fashion e-tailer Modanisa, initially tried to convince existing brands to move online. When they declined, he took matters into his own hands, building a global e-commerce powerhouse from scratch.


    "The clothes we put on ourselves, a piece of fabric, it's part of our identity, part of our self-confidence," Türe says. "We believe all women deserve to look their best without compromising their beliefs."


    For Linda Anggrea, CEO of the Modinity Group, the absence of modest fashion brands in major Indonesian shopping malls was glaring. She seized the opportunity, growing her brand from a single scarf line to a multi-brand group with over 100 retail locations.


    "We want to feel good about ourselves, we want to feel comfortable," Anggrea says. "If we put that concept into whatever we are doing, it will easily translate into a good collection but still fit modest values."


    This week on The BoF Podcast, in a compelling conversation with Forbes Middle East presenter Sally Mousa, at BoF CROSSROADS 2025, Rabia Zargarpur, Kerim Ture, and Linda Anggrea explore the growing influence of modest fashion, discuss its evolving presence in mainstream markets, and outline the steps necessary for sustainable growth, authentic collaborations, and global recognition.


    Key Insights:


    • Authenticity is vital as modest fashion gains mainstream popularity. “There needs to be authenticity and they need to understand our values and work with us. If they work with, they would have better solutions,” says Zargarpur. Highlighting the transparency of superficial engagement by mainstream brands she adds, “We're not just about caftans. ... We're about sustainability, ethical practices, creativity and innovation. Why can't you make that kind of stuff for me the way you do for your other consumers?”


    • The industry stands at a pivotal crossroads between short-term individual success and long-term collective growth. Anggrea underscores the importance of unity, even within her own brands: "We're at a crossroads whether we want to go fast alone or go far together. Each brand has its own voice, but we have one shared mission. That modest fashion is not only accepted, but actually expected."


    • Supporting emerging designers is essential for the future of modest fashion. "We need more brands coming from inside," says Türe. "Designers and business people need to come together." He adds, "We are the colonised South. We need to bring our own branch to the world right now."


    Additional Resources:

    • BoF CROSSROADS 2025: How to Tap into Fashion’s Future Growth Markets
    • Modest Fashion’s Big Asia Opportunity

    Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.


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