The British Food History Podcast

Latest Episodes:

The British Cook Book with Ben Mervis Sep 14, 2022

Show notes

Neil talks to food writer, journal editor and now author of The British Cook Book, Ben Mervis, published by Phaidon on 22 September in the UK and 8 October the rest of the world. It’s quite possibly the most comprehensive book on British cooking ever published, so Neil just had to get him on.

They talk about just how one goes about writing a book with 550 recipes in it, and on what grounds should a recipe be included or excluded: delicacies such as sweet goose blood tart, and guga being cases in point. Tradition and innovation, the importance of women, and their writing, in compiling the book, the cultural significance of dippy egg and soldiers, amongst several other things.

The British Cook Book is available from all bookshops including Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/British-Cookbook-authentic-Scotland-Northern/dp/1838665285

You can order the book on Phaidon’s website: https://www.phaidon.com/store/food-cook/the-british-cookbook-9781838665289/

Find out more about Ben’s magazine, Fare here: https://www.faremag.com/

Follow Fare on social media: Twitter @FareMagazine; Insta @faremag

Follow Ben on social media: Twitter @bmervis; Insta @benmervis

Neil’s recent podcast appearances:

The Lubber’s Hole: https://lubbershole.podbean.com/e/ep-118-the-nutmeg-of-consolation-part-7-neil-buttery/

Bread and Thread: https://open.spotify.com/episode/0w2FvkdlcsE3YzFOzOzYjm?si=05e666e14ad04db0

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen & Sword: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

Also, don’t forget if you have any questions or queries about today’s episode, or indeed any episode, or have a question about the history of British food please email Neil at neil@britishfoodhistory.com, or find me on twitter @neilbuttery, or Instagram dr_neil_buttery my DMs are open.

If you like my blog posts and podcast episodes, please consider a monthly subscription or buying me a virtual coffee or a pint? Go to https://britishfoodhistory.com/support-the-blog-podcast/ for more details.

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

British Saffron with Sam Bilton Sep 04, 2022

Show notes

On the show today is author, food historian and returning guest Sam Bilton to talk about British Saffron – both growing it and eating it – Sam has a brand new book about to come out called Fool’s Gold A History of British Saffron, published by Prospect Books on 8th September 2022.

We talk about when, where and why saffron was grown in the country, how common it used to be in the British diet, it’s liberal use in the Forme of Cury, using saffron in your own cooking, Saffron as a dye and food colouring, how it was harvested and prepared, gilded chickens and the return of British saffron.

Sam’s book Fool’s Gold A History of British Saffron, published by Prospect Books on 8th September 2022: https://prospectbooks.co.uk/products-page/current-titles/2022-fools-gold-a-history-of-british-saffron-by-sam-bilton/

Sam’s website: http://www.sambilton.com/

Find Sam on social media: twitter @sjfbilton; Instagram @mrssbilton

Some UK Saffron producers

Sussex Saffron: https://www.sussexsaffron.co.uk/

The Cheshire Saffron Company: https://www.sussexsaffron.co.uk/

The Cornish Saffron Company: https://www.cornishsaffroncompany.co.uk/

Norfolk Saffron: https://www.norfolksaffron.co.uk/

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen & Sword: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

The Foods of England Project with Glyn Hughes Aug 25, 2022

Show notes

Neil’s guest today is Glyn Hughes, the man behind one of the most important resources for anyone interested in the history of food or traditional English dishes both common and forgotten.

We talked about how and why Glyn started up the project, why British food has gained its bad reputation, some examples of bad English foods, tripe and tripe restaurants, the bizarre and obscure chicken dish Hindle Wakes, the origins of beef Wellington, fake tea, haggis, Chorley cakes and Bakewell pudding.

All of the foods talked about in the episode have a page on the Foods of England website telling you about various aspects of their history. Have fun searching!

Things mentioned in today’s episode:

The Foods of England Project website: http://www.foodsofengland.co.uk/

All of Glyn’s books can be viewed here: http://www.foodsofengland.co.uk/Buybooks.htm

Follow Glyn on twitter @foodsofengland

Glyn’s salmagundi video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kB5ccxjHNY

Neil’s probably incorrect blog post about Brown Windsor Soup: https://britishfoodhistory.com/2012/02/13/how-the-british-royal-family-was-saved-by-soup/

One Dish with Andi Oliver can be heard as a podcast via BBC sounds: https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/brand/p0c625t7

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen & Sword: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

A History of Herbalism with Emma Kay Aug 16, 2022

Show notes

Neil’s guest today is historian and friend of the show Emma

Kay. Today we talk about Emma’s new book A History of Herbalism: Cook, Cure

& Conjure which was published in June 2022.

We talk about the importance of herbs in medicine, magic and

food, and how these things were interconnected, the four humours, Anglo-Saxon

medical texts, the double standards surrounding men and women who practised

magic and medicine, two female pioneers of botany and herbalism, and narcotic

garden vegetables.

Emma’s book is published by Pen &

Sword History: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-History-of-Herbalism-Hardback/p/21395

Follow Emma on twitter @museumofkitchen

and Insta @emma_kay_author. Her website is www.museumofkitchenalia.com.

Things mentioned in today’s episode:

Marianne North’s edited biography: https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Recollections_of_a_Happy_Life/fdnVAAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0

Elizabeth Blackwell’s A Curious

Herbal: https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/A_Curious_Herbal_Containing_Five_Hundred/ogHjFWeztJAC?hl=en&gbpv=0

Neil’s book A Dark History of

Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen

& Sword: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy

directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if

outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

Also, don’t forget if you have any questions

or queries about today’s episode, or indeed any episode, or have a question

about the history of British food please email me at

neil@britishfoodhistory.com, or find me on twitter @neilbuttery, or Instagram

dr_neil_buttery my DMs are open.

If you like my blog posts and podcast

episodes, please consider a monthly subscription or buying me a virtual coffee

or a pint? Go to https://britishfoodhistory.com/support-the-blog-podcast/ for more details.

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

Breakfast with Felicity Cloake Aug 09, 2022

Show notes

Welcome to episode one of the new fourth season of The British Food History Podcast.

Kicking us off is Neil’s guest Felicity Cloake. Neil & Felicity talk all things breakfast and Felicity’s new book Red Sauce, Brown Sauce, a celebration of the breakfast in all four home nations of the UK.

We talk about how breakfast might be the only thing uniting all 4 countries that make up the UK, the complexities of planning a nation-wide breakfast tour, injuries, why it’s okay to like both red and brown sauce, as well as neither, the importance of pudding on a fried breakfast, regional specialities and recipe writing.

Felicity’s book Red Sauce, Brown Sauce is published by Harper Collins: https://harpercollins.co.uk/products/red-sauce-brown-sauce-a-british-breakfast-odyssey-felicity-cloake?variant=39584484687950

Felicity will be appearing at the Abergavenny Food Festival 17 & 18 September 2022 (https://www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com/), Divizes Food Festival 24 Sept to 2 Oct 2022 (https://www.devizesfoodanddrinkfestival.info/category/events/) and the Dartmouth Food Festival 21 Oct to 23 Oct 2022 (https://www.dartmouthfoodfestival.com/).

Follow Felicity on twitter and Insta @felicitycloake.

Neil’s recent podcast appearances:

Season’s Eatings: https://open.spotify.com/episode/4GJlffoU9dVYCdGyJGOvDX?si=90285119f6644271

The Well-Seasoned Librarian: https://open.spotify.com/episode/5wps3FiGdVDynPQVl62G4M?si=b0e53ab4fe1c4c1b

That Shakespeare Life: https://open.spotify.com/episode/2w7xGGBye93jvO39IuntTO?si=e5bf9543b9794eaf

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen & Sword: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

Also, don’t forget if you have any questions or queries about today’s episode, or indeed any episode, or have a question about the history of British food please email me at neil@britishfoodhistory.com, or find me on twitter @neilbuttery, or Instagram dr_neil_buttery my DMs are open.

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

A Dark History of Sugar with Neil Buttery & Emma Kay Part 2 May 21, 2022

Show notes

Once more, Neil is a guest on his own podcast interviewed by friend of the show, and previous guest, author and food historian Emma Kay about the dark history of sugar.

In this episode we talk about the abolition of slavery from the British perspective, sugar consumption through history, dental health, the tobaccofication of sugar and how cooking from scratch is key to lower your sugar (and salt) intake. We also discuss ways to eat sugar that is kind to the workers growing it, and our planet and disagree about the virtues of artificial sweeteners.

Also: just a head's up, there are a couple of swear words used in this episode. They are comparatively mild, but perhaps not suitable for children.

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available now from all bookshops as well as from the publisher Pen & Sword; if you are quick you can still get an early bird 25% discount: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

If you want to buy a signed copy directly from Neil for £18 + postage (£2.85 if within the UK, the going rate if outside!). Contact him via email or social media if you fancy it (see below).

Listen to Neil interview Emma about the dark history of chocolate: https://player.captivate.fm/episode/0f3bd395-57ee-4436-a0cc-993aa3a0f8c4

Emma’s book A Dark History of Chocolate was published by Pen & Sword History in 2021: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Chocolate-Hardback/p/19247

Emma’s new book A History of Herbalism will be published by Pen & Sword History in June 2022: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-History-of-Herbalism-Cure-Cook-and-Conjure-Hardback/p/21395

Follow Emma on Twitter @MuseumofKitchen and on Instagram @museumofkitchenalia, or visit her website: museumofkitchenalia.com

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

A Dark History of Sugar with Neil Buttery & Emma Kay Part 1 May 07, 2022

Show notes

Neil is a guest on his own podcast talking about the dark history of sugar. He’s interviewed by friend of the show, and previous guest, author and food historian Emma Kay.

In part 1 of this 2 part interview, we talk about the evolutionary reasons about why we love sugar so much, sugar’s origins and subsequent spread by the Muslim Empire and then the Crusading knights, ending up finally in the New World. We focus on the English in the 17th century: how they got in on the sugar trade, their life on the sugar plantations, the sugar making process and the terrible conditions in which the slaves were forced to work. We also discuss how the English subjugated their sugar slaves and how the slaves found ways to empower themselves.

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is out now, published by Pen & Sword; if you are quick you can still get an early bird 25% discount: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

It is available, of course, to buy at all other bookshops.

Emma’s book A Dark History of Chocolate was published by Pen & Sword History in 2021: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Chocolate-Hardback/p/19247

Emma’s new book A History of Herbalism will be published by Pen & Sword History in June 2022: https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-History-of-Herbalism-Cure-Cook-and-Conjure-Hardback/p/21395

Follow Emma on Twitter @MuseumofKitchen and on Instagram @museumofkitchenalia, or visit her website: museumofkitchenalia.com

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

Cheddar & the Cheese Industry with Peter J. Atkins Apr 26, 2022

Show notes

Today, Neil talks with Emeritus Professor Peter J. Atkins about the history of Britain’s cheese industry. Britain had a diverse range of cheeses until cheddar came along and almost made artisan cheese extinct in the UK.

We talk about Roman and medieval cheese, the importance of women and girls to cheese and cheesemaking, Joseph Harding ‘the father of British cheddar’, cheddar in North America, Scottish cheddar, and the inevitable dumbing down of variety and flavour when food becomes industrialised.

Peter J. Atkins is a food historian and historical geographer with over 50 years of research experience. His specialization has been in perishable foods such as dairy products and he is now writing a history of British cheese. He has worked on dairy systems in South Asia and on general food history with colleagues in Europe. He is a past President of the International Commission for Research on European Food History (https://icrefh.hypotheses.org/).

Subscribers: don’t forget to check out the Easter Egg tab on the website to listen to the many extras from this episode: http://britishfoodhistory.com/easter-eggs/

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available to preorder from the publishers with a 25% discount. It is available, of course, to preorder at all other bookshops https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

Links to things mentioned in this episode:

Work published by Peter complementing this episode:

Vabre, S., Bruegel, M. and Atkins, P.J. (Eds)(2021) Food

History: A Feast of the Senses in Europe, 1750 to the Present London: Routledge https://www.routledge.com/Food-History-A-Feast-of-the-Senses-in-Europe-1750-to-the-Present/Vabre-Bruegel-Atkins/p/book/9780367515584

Atkins, P.J. (2016) A History of Uncertainty: Bovine Tuberculosis in Britain, 1850 to the Present Winchester: Winchester University Press ISBN: 9781906113179 https://www.amazon.co.uk/History-Uncertainty-Tuberculosis-Perspectives-Veterinary/dp/1906113173

Harvey & Brockless range of British Cheeses: https://www.harveyandbrockless.co.uk/category/artisan-cheese/british-cheese

Neil’s new blog post ‘The Return of Traditional Cheesemaking’ with toasted cheese recipe: https://britishfoodhistory.com/2022/04/26/the-return-of-the-british-cheese-industry/

Neil on 'Table Talk' podcast with Stefan Gates via Food Matters Live: https://foodmatterslive.com/discover/podcast/the-dark-history-of-sugar-food-podcasts/

A post about clotted (or clouted) cream from Neil’s blog: https://britishfoodhistory.com/2019/10/11/clotted-cream/

Two more cheese recipes: Welsh Rarebit & Locket’s Savoury: https://britishfoodhistory.com/2018/02/18/welsh-rarebit-lockets-savoury/

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

Fanny Cradock with Kevin Geddes Apr 12, 2022

Show notes

Neil has a most enlightening chat with Kevin Geddes about the fabulous television cook Fanny Cradock (1909-1994). Fanny has a reputation for being difficult to work with, cruel and monstrous, and that she was a fake. In this chat Kevin upturns SOME of those preconceptions. We talk about her way into radio and television, her manner and presenting style, the fantastic Christmas special, as well as her decline and fall from television cookery. Much of her life is fabricated and it is difficult to see where the real Fanny stops, and the celebrity Fanny begins.

Subscribers: don’t forget to check out the Easter Egg tab on the website to listen to the many extras from this episode: http://britishfoodhistory.com/easter-eggs/

Kevin’s book Keep Calm and Fanny On! The Many Careers of Fanny Cradock is published by Fantom https://www.fantompublishing.co.uk/product/kevin-geddes-fanny-cradock/

It’s All in the Booklet: Festive Fun with Fanny Cradock is also published by Fantom https://www.fantompublishing.co.uk/product/kevin-geddes-its-all-in-the-booklet-festive-fun-with-fanny-cradock/

Follow Kevin on Twitter and Insta @keepcalmandfannyon

Neil’s book A Dark History of Sugar is available to preorder from the publisher with a 25% discount. It is available, of course, to preorder at all other bookshops https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Sugar-Hardback/p/20481

Links to things mentioned in this episode:

British Pathe reel: Fanny and Johnnie’s savouries and cooking tips (YouTube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgrtXKcmeyU

Fanny and Johnnie at the Albert Hall (YouTube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHGSJbPz2e8

Adventurous Cooking with Fanny Cradock (YouTube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EQJ8GnDsiw

Fanny Cradock Invites… (on BBC iPlayer) https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p05rv2m9/fanny-cradock-invites-you-to-a-cheese-and-wine-party

Fanny Cradock Cooks for Christmas (on BBC iPlayer) https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p05jvgzw/fanny-cradock-cooks-for-christmas-series-1-1-fanny-cradock-cooks-for-christmas

The Big Time: Fanny’s downfall? (YouTube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eW-2fclfRpI&t=1s

Fanny on TV chat show Wogan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z82EYek2-xs

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp

Food in Gothic Literature with Alessandra Pino Dec 30, 2021

Show notes

Today Neil chats with Alessandra Pino, co-author of ‘A Gothic Cookbook’, about food in gothic literature. They talk about the inspiration behind the book, the function of food (or the lack of it) in gothic fiction and how crowdfunding platform Unbound has helped with the project. They look at Frankenstein’s monster and his vegetarianism and delve a bit deeper into Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte.

Subscribers: don’t forget to check out the Easter Egg tab on the website to listen to a couple of extras from this episode: http://britishfoodhistory.com/easter-eggs/

Visit Alessandra and Ella’s page on Unbound here to see page samples and Lee Henry’s wonderful illustrations: https://unbound.com/books/a-gothic-cookbook/

To receive 10% off your pledge use the code GOTHICPOD10

Follow A Gothic Cookbook on Twitter and Insta @AGothicCookbook

Links to things mentioned in this episode:

Wikipedia entry for Jane Eyre: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jane_Eyre

Neil’s Hot Toddy blog post: http://britishfoodhistory.com/2021/12/24/a-hot-toddy/

Neil’s Christmas Pye posts: https://neilcooksgrigson.com/2021/12/18/445-to-make-a-yorkshire-christmas-pye-part-1/

This podcast uses the following third-party services for analysis:
Podtrac - https://analytics.podtrac.com/privacy-policy-gdrp