Salt & Spine

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BONUS: Alison Roman & Where We Go From Here with food writer Alicia Kennedy May 19, 2020

Show notes

Note: This episode was recorded remotely.

Food writer Alicia Kennedy joins us for a special bonus episode.

Following cookbook author Alison Roman's interview with The New Consumer, there's renewed discussion on a number of ongoing issues in the food industry—in particular, disparities in whose voices are heard, who gets access to audiences and platforms. Of course, these challenges and conversations are not new; but the high-profile drama Alison Roman ignited when calling out fellow cookbook author Chrissy Teigen brought the issues to the forefront among a wider, more mainstream audience.

Instead of focusing too much on the specifics of what transpired following Roman's interview, Salt + Spine producer Madeleine Forbes dialed up San Juan-based food writer Alicia Kennedy (author of the weekly newsletter From The Desk of Alicia Kennedy host of the podcast Meatless, which is on hiatus) to discuss some of the problems plaguing food media.

If you missed the whole drama, Stained Page News editor Paula Forbes (subscribe to her weekly newsletter here) has a summary:

In the interview, Roman criticized two Asian women (Chrissy Teigen and Marie Kondo) for having product lines before mentioning she was launching her own collection. (There were other criticisms, but I’m trying to be brief.) Over a series of tweets, Chrissy Teigen expressed her disappointment in Roman’s words…and also revealed she’s a producer on the show Roman mentioned in the interview. Roman tweeted her first apology. Teigen made her Twitter private. Roman issued a second, longer apology (click through IG above). Teigen made her Twitter public again and responds to the...

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Remixing your favorite pantry ingredients with cookbook savant Charlotte Druckman May 12, 2020

Show notes

*In response to travel restrictions and social distancing due to COVID-19, this week's interview was recorded remotely and not in-studio. Thanks for listening.*

NEW YORK—This week, we're excited to welcome Charlotte Druckman to Salt & Spine, the podcast on cookbooks.

Charlotte is a food journalist whose work has appeared in nearly every major food outlet — from Food & Wine to Bon Appetit to Cherry Bombe — and national publications like The New York Times, Wall Street Journal, and more. She’s also the co-creator of Food52’s Piglet, the site's much loved (though now defunct) annual cookbook tournament.

The compilation she edited last year — Women on Food, featuring 115 voices from the industry in a genre-fluid format — was recently nominated for a James Beard Award.

Her latest cookbook — Kitchen Remix: 75 Recipes for Making the Most of Your Ingredients — couldn’t have come at a better time, as people spend more time in the kitchen. The “remix” concept takes three ingredients — many of them staples — and offers three suggested, and usually quite different, recipes using those items. Take the Zucchini/Pistachio/Mint chapter: starting off with a slow-cooked zucchini with ground pistachios, then you’ll find a raw minty-fresh zucchini salad with marinated feta, and finally an olive oil zucchini bread studded with fresh mint and pistachios.

In today's show, we're talking with Charlotte about:

the path that took her from an art history student to a preeminent food journalist;
about how she came up with the idea for the Food52’s Piglet and then fell into a career as a cookbook author herself;
and about her work on gender in the restaurant and food media worlds.

Plus, of course, we’re playing a game -- putting Charlotte to the Kitchen Remix test! And Paula Forbes, editor of Stained Page News, joins us to preview food memoirs being published this month. And we feature recipes on SaltAndSpine.com from Kitchen Remix.

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Embracing the incredible versatility of chicken–America's No. 1 protein–with Stacie Billis Apr 28, 2020

Show notes

*In response to travel restrictions and social distancing due to COVID-19, this week's interview was recorded remotely and not in-studio. Thanks for listening.*

BROOKLYN, NEW YORK—This week, we're excited to welcome Stacie Billis to Salt & Spine, the podcast on cookbooks.

Stacie Billis is a food writer whose award-winning blog, One Hungry Mama, was considered one of the first food blogs focused on parents and feeding your family. Stacie has also been the Founding Food Editor-in-Chief at the Cool Mom Picks network — and today, she shares her life, recipes, and tips as the "family cook" on social media.

Stacie is also one of the voices behind the popular podcast, Didn’t I Just Feed You, a show about feeding families that she co-hosts with Meghan Splawn, Associate Food Editor for Kitchn.com. [Salt + Spine host Brian Hogan Stewart has joined the DIJFY podcast twice to talk cookbooks with Stacie and Meghan—be sure to subscribe to their show!]

And of course, Stacie is a cookbook author — her first book, Make It Easy, focused on shortcuts using store-bought ingredients. And her latest, Winner! Winner! Chicken Dinner, is all about how to harness the flavor and versatility of—you guessed it—chicken.

In today’s show, we’re talking with Stacie about:

how a background in child development led her to career in food writing
the popularity of chicken — now the most consumed protein in the U.S., with the average American now buying 53 pounds, per person, per year — and some tricks for producing flavorful, juicy chicken dishes;
and about her foray into podcasting, which cookbook authors she turns to as a home cook, and more.

And of course, we’re playing a chicken-themed game with Stacie at the end of the show — don't miss it!

* * *

Featured Recipes:

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A year of home cooking and baking—and seasonal timpanos—with Berliner Meike Peters Apr 21, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're excited to welcome food blogger and cookbook author Meike Peters to Salt + Spine, the podcast on cookbooks.

Meike is the James Beard-winning author of Eat In My Kitchen and her latest cookbook, 365: A Year Of Everyday Cooking And Baking. And her latest work is exactly that: 365 new recipes to fuel a year of home cooking. Meike has been sharing recipes from her home kitchen in Berlin on her blog, Eat In My Kitchen, and on her Instagram since 2013.

In today’s show, we’re talking with Meike about:

how she went from a music label to pursuing a food career;
the inspiration behind her work and how she approaches recipe testing;
and developing a full year of approachable, varied recipes for her latest book.

Plus, of course, we’re playing a themed game with Meike – and we're featuring two recipes for her latest cookbook on saltandspine.com.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

From flatbreads to the Armenian revolution: the making of the Lavash cookbook Apr 14, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're excited to welcome Kate Leahy, Ara Zada, and John Lee to Salt + Spine, the podcast on cookbooks. Kate, Ara, and John are the trio behind Lavash: The Bread that Launched 1,000 Meals, Plus Salads, Stews, and Other Recipes from Armenia.

The trio are the team behind the cookbook, Lavash: The Bread That Launched 1,000 Meals, Plus Salads, Stews, and Other Recipes From Armenia.

Together, they have worked to tell the story of lavash, the “ubiquitous and doable UNESCO-recognized flatbread of Armenia."

As the authors note, the Republic of Armenia is a small country—about the size of Massachusetts, and with half of the population. But the country boasts a diverse landscape: mountainous yet rich in agriculture. With more than 60 recipes, their cookbook showcases not only the lavash bread but also all the dishes you’ll want to eat alongside it.

In today’s show, we’re talking with Kate, Ara, and John about:

the process of how this cookbook came together;
why lavash is so significant in the global history and to Armenian cuisine;
and how John and his team ended up in the middle of a tumultuous protest while working on the book.

Our guests discuss Armenian cuisine and the importance of lavash, their research trips to Armenia, and how they think about cookbooks. Plus, we’re playing a lavash-themed game at the end of the show.

Also, in today’s show:

Salt + Spine Kitchen Correspondent Sarah Varney heads into the kitchen to prepare arishta—traditional Armenian flour noodles—with mushrooms.
Recipes for Jingalov Hats and Lavash-Wrapped Trout with Tarragon, both available on saltandspine.com.

Additional music in today's show is Good Ol Plan B by Mela.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Harsh winters & vodka pickles: Celebrating Russian cuisine with Darra Goldstein Apr 07, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're excited to welcome Darra Goldstein to Salt + Spine, the podcast on stories behind cookbooks.

In her latest cookbook, Beyond the North Wind: Russia in Recipes and Lore, Darra journeys 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle to the Kola Peninsula, bordering the Barents Sea. It's "one of the literal ends of the earth—next stop, North Pole," Darra writes in the book. She travels here to rid herself of any outside influence and explore the true complexities of Russian cuisine during the country's harsh winters.

Previously, Darra wrote Fire and Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking (nominated for a James Beard Award in 2016) and her first cookbook, A Taste of Russia: A Cookbook of Russian Hospitality, first published in 1983. Darra is also the founding editor of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture.

Her journey allowed her to discover what's at the heart of Russian cuisine: whole grains, fermented foods, and unique flavors such as sea buckthorn and fireweed leaves. The recipes in Beyond the North Wind offer a refreshing take on old techniques: think Raspberry Kvass, homemade Farmer's Cheese, Russian Handpies, and Buckwheat Croutons.

With a cookbook that's both inventive and inviting, Darra captures the landscape of Russian cuisine both past and present through her elevated storytelling and desire to shed the stereotypes of Russian cuisine. By bringing its history, people, and geography to the forefront, she gives us an in-depth understanding of how Russian food came into existence and how it's evolved.

In today's show, Salt + Spine producer Madeleine Forbes sits down with Darra in a San Francisco café to discuss:

Russian cuisine before and after the Soviet Union;
featured recipes from Beyond the North Wind, including infused vodkas and 20-minute pickles;
the process of seeking and preparing food during Russia's notoriously intense winters;
some of Russia's unique culinary ingredients, like sea buckthorn and fireweed leaves;
Russian hospitality and the country's restaurant landscape today;
and deconstructing the stereotype that Russian food is bland or boring.

PLUS: Recipes for Horseradish Vodka and 20-Minute Pickles.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Keeping Joy of Cooking in the family with John Becker & Megan Scott Mar 31, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're thrilled to welcome John Becker & Megan Scott to Salt + Spine, the podcast on cookbooks.

While it might seem weird to say a book — not an author — needs perhaps no introduction, that feels like a fitting statement for Joy of Cooking. With 20 million copies in print, it’s the most-published cookbook in the us and often considered the most popular. And for many, the most beloved.

And it all dates back to 1931 — nearly 90 years ago — when John Becker’s great-grandmother, Irma Rombauer, self-published 3,000 copies of a cookbook she titled Joy of Cooking, using half her life savings. And after several updates and revisions over the years — some of them more divisive than others — the fourth generation of the Rombauer/Becker family has taken oven the helm.

John and Megan spent nearly a decade working on this edition — and while it keeps the spirit of Joy alive with 4,000 favorite recipes “revised and updated” — it also includes 600 new recipes. It continues to be a door-stopping 1,200 pages. There are numerous new and improved elements in this edition: new American classics like Chicago-style deep dish pizza and buckeyes now complement classics like brownies, roast turkey, and apple pie. Modern recipes — from a kimchi mac and cheese and a roasted cauliflower with green olives and lemon — share the pages with new globally inspired dishes like Thai-style wings, mapo dofu, and lamb shawarma.

In today’s show, we’re talking with John and Megan about:

how they tested and developed these thousands and thousands of recipes -- all without a dishwasher;
how it was Joy of Cooking that brought them together in the first place;
and how they’re continuing on the traditions and significance of the Joy of Cooking brand.

Plus, we play a Joy of Cooking-themed game with John and Megan.

Also, in today’s show:

Cookbook critic Paula Forbes of Stained Page News joins us to preview new cookbooks being published in April.
Recipes from Joy of Cooking for Black Bean Soup, Banana Bread Cockaigne, and Miso-Glazed Eggplant – all available on www.saltandspine.com.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Celebrated cooking teacher Molly Stevens' secrets to simple, perfect dinners Mar 24, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're thrilled to welcome cookbook author and culinary instructor Molly Stevens to Salt + Spine, the podcast on cookbooks.

A native New Yorker who spent a short stint learning culinary skills in France, Molly has written several cookbooks and has been named Cooking Teacher of the Year by both Bon Appétit magazine and the International Association of Culinary Professionals.

Her first two solo cookbooks — All About Braising and All About Roasting — both won the James Beard Award for Single-Subject Cookbook.

Molly's latest cookbook, All About Dinner, is aimed at helping home cooks "invigorate your everyday menus and build your kitchen know-how." The book includes 150 recipes, ranging from chipotle pork tacos to parmesan risotto to a triple-ginger apple crisp.

In today's show, we're talking with Molly about:

how she still considers herself primarily a home cook;
what led her to cookbook writing;
and how she approaches recipe development as a culinary teacher.

Plus, as always, we're playing a Salt + Spine game with Molly!

Also in today's show:

Food writer Charlotte Druckman joins us to talk cookbook covers—and why British cookbooks often get a different cover in the United States.
Stained Page News editor Paula Forbes joins us to talk about March's new cookbook releases.
And recipes for Chard and Onion Tart with Two Cheeses and White Bean Gratin with Tomatoes and Sausage.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Fuchsia Dunlop revisits her iconic Sichuanese cookbook after 20 years Mar 17, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're excited to welcome Fuchsia Dunlop to Salt + Spine, the podcast on stories behind cookbooks.

Fuchsia is the author of several award-winning cookbooks focused on Chinese cuisine, especially Sichuan cooking. Her Chinese home-cooking book, Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking, won a James Beard Award and her memoir, Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China, won the IACP's Jane Grigson Award.

Most recently, Fuchsia published The Food of Sichuan, an "essential update" of her 2003 Sichuanese deep-dive, Land of Plenty. With more than 70 new recipes, plus vivid travel and food photography, The Food of Sichuan builds on Fuchsia's repertoire and research.

ALSO on this week's show:

We head into the kitchen with author Maria Zizka to cook from Fuchsia's latest book.
We feature recipes for Fish-Fragrant Eggplants and Mapo Tofu.

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This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit saltandspine.substack.com/subscribe

Einat Admony on shuks, stand-up, and running restaurants Mar 10, 2020

Show notes

This week, we're excited to welcome Einat Admony to Salt + Spine, the podcast on stories behind cookbooks.

Einat is the author of, most recently, Shuk: From Market to Table, the Heart of Israeli Home Cooking, with Janna Gur. Called an "edifying deep dive into Israeli food market culture and cuisine" by Publisher's Weekly, Shuk features more than 140 recipes from stews to salads to shakshukas.

A former cook in the Israeli army, Einat is now the chef/owner of several New York City restaurants, including the popular Balaboosta, Kish-Kash, and Taïm. Her first cookbook, Balaboosta, includes recipes she cooks for her family.

Recipes from this week's show:

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