Many of us consider organic farming to be just the starting point in the search for responsibly farmed wines. But what does it take to farm a vineyard organically, and how common are organically certified grapes? Is it easier to be organic in some terroirs than in others? And where did this whole organic movement come from in the first place? Today we'll take a look at organic practices by tracing the history of farming back to its roots.
Join us as we take a tour of the 100 year old vines of Domaine Pierre Gonon with the beloved Jean Gonon himself as he illustrates just how much hard work goes into farming the vines that produce his moving wines. While we’re there, we will explore the history of organic farming, and the rise of conventional farming that preceded it. We will break down what it takes to get a certification and how geology determines how difficult it will be to farm fully organically – with additional commentary from lots of our friends and mentors along the way.
The episode is sponsored by the wonderful team at Becky Wasserman and Company.
Thank you to our guests: Jean Gonon and Paul Wasserman, and for the additional commentary from Michele Chapel, Rodrigo Soto, Abe Schoener, Eduard Vocoret, and Camille Thiriet.
We’re so excited to have you along for the ride! Don’t forget to hit subscribe below and check out our new YouTube channel where you can find photos, maps, and transcripts to go along with each episode. And don't forget to join our special group of Roadside Insiders so you can join along on our next Roadside adventure!
Credits:
Roadside Terroir is hosted and produced by Brenna Quigley
Sound engineering, original music and sound design by Jeff Alvarez
Research and writing support by Paul Knittel
With special thanks to Hautes Cotes, Clare Shaheen, Esa Eslami, Michel Joly, Thibault Bevilacqua, and our Grand Cru Patrons Steven and Amy Lipin.
Check out our website roadsideterroir.com to learn more about THIS SEASON and HOW TO SUPPORT THE SHOW.
Santé!
References:
Books:
Elaine Chukan Brown (2025): The Wines of California.
Jamie Goode (2023): The New Viticulture.
Aaron Ayscough (2022): The World of Natural Wine.
Jancis Robinson (2015 [4th Edition]): The Oxford Companion to Wine.
Jamie Goode (2014): Wine Science.
Jeff Lowenfels & Wayne Lewis (2010): Teaming with Microbes.
R. Brunet (1910): Le matériel viticole.
Frederic T. Bioletti (1907): Oidium or powdery mildew of the vine.
Freiherr von Babo (1842): Der Weinbau. Dargestellt in der Reihenfolge der vorkommenden Arbeiten.
B. A. Lenoir (1828): Traité de la culture de la vigne et de la vinification.
Essays & articles:
FiBL (Forschungsinstitut für Biologischen Landbau): The World of Organic Agriculture Report 2025.
Fabien Knittel (2025): Fertilisers in France in the nineteenth century.
Simon Nordestgaard (2022): History and recent developments in under-vine weeding equipment.
Kat Eschner (2017): How One Mycologist Saved France’s Wine (Among Other Things)
Leonard Gianessi and Ashley Williams (2011): Fungicides Have Protected European Wine Grapes for 150 Years.
Paul Brassley (2006): British farming between the wars.
Hilary P. M. Winchester (1986): Agricultural Change and Population Movements in France 1892-1929.
Websites:
Encyclopedia Britannica on herbicides, fungicides and insecticides: https://www.britannica.com
IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements): https://www.ifoam.bio
USDA (United States Department of Agriculture): https://www.usda.gov
EU Commission: https://agriculture.ec.europa.eu/farming/organic-farming/organic-logo_de