I'll Drink to That! Wine Talk

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464: Russell Hone and the Killer Wine Tasting Apr 11, 2019

Show notes

Russell Hone lives and works in Burgundy, France with his wife Becky Wasserman.

Russell is one of the wine world's great characters, and this interview follows along with the various curves, shifts, and turns to the side of his life, going from England in the post-war years to Germany, Bordeaux, and then on to Burgundy in the 1980s until today. He recalls several encounters with a broad cast of characters from throughout his life, and along the way gives an account of how various wine regions and wines have changed over time. Specifically, there are many reminiscences about Burgundy and Burgundians, some famous and some not. Russell also testifies to a few of his other passions, including Sauternes and old vintage Port.

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463: Brenna Quigley and the School of Hard Rocks Mar 25, 2019

Show notes

Brenna Quigley is a geologist who does wine related consulting as a terroir specialist at brennaquigley.com

Brenna describes her unusual family connection to geology, and her entry into the wine world. She goes on to define key concepts in geology, such as what soil is, how it is formed, and the different types of rocks that are found in the world. Brenna describes the key rock formations of France, their history, and how they correspond to wine regions. She then discusses what the implications of different rock types are for vines, and takes a close look at specific wine areas, explaining what their distinguishing features are. Wine fans who would like to deepen their knowledge of wine and geology will find a lot to love about this episode.

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462: David Hirsch and the Hirsch Vineyards Lighthouse Mar 18, 2019

Show notes

David Hirsch is the owner of Hirsch Vineyards, located in the Sonoma Coast of California.

David opens up about his travels across the United States and across the world in the 1960s and 1970s, and about what led him eventually to the outer reaches of the Sonoma Coast to plant a vineyard. He also reveals what he has learned about the farming of grapevines over the years. And he talks about some of the key people who shaped his thoughts as he became the owner of a vineyard, and then subsequently a winery. Famous names from both Burgundy and California winemaking make an appearance within this conversation, and David is both frank and funny in the reminiscences about his life.

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461: White Burgundy Maestro Pierre Morey Mar 04, 2019

Show notes

Pierre Morey works with his family at Domaine Pierre Morey and Maison Morey-Blanc, both based in the Burgundy village of Meursault, in France.

Pierre grew up farming some of the most renowned vineyards of Meursault, as his family worked as sharecroppers for the Lafon family. He discusses his experience working in and vinifying the fruit of vineyards like Le Montrachet, Meursault-Perrieres, Meursault-Genevrieres, and Meursault-Charmes. He also delves into his transition to Regisseur at Domaine Leflaive, which some have called the greatest white Burgundy domaine, and where he worked for two decades. Pierre describes a life in the vines and in the cellar, sharing many details of his work. He also opens up about the loss that he experienced in his own family, and how that affected his professional life. Those wanting details about famous Côte de Beaune crus and about the vinification of white Burgundy will find both in this interview, which also address the changes in farming that Pierre Morey witnessed during the course of his career.

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460: Joel Peterson and the Winemaking American Dream Feb 07, 2019

Show notes

Joel Peterson is the Founder and Winemaker of the Ravenswood Winery, and the Founder and Winemaker of Once & Future Wine, both in California.

Joel describes his first moments with wine, tasting wine with his father and mother, and how that led later to his work with Joseph Swan. Joel talks at length about Swan and the early days of the Joseph Swan winery. Swan was making exemplary California Zinfandel, and Joel explains why he also chose to focus on Zinfandel at the winery he founded, Ravenswood. He recounts the humble beginnings of Ravenswood, an operation that would later become much larger after the market success that Joel found with the Ravenswood "Vintners Blend." That popular red wine was an introduction to Zinfandel as a red wine for many consumers at the time, countering the White Zinfandel trend of that moment. Joel discusses Zinfandel as a grape variety, and talks about several of the different old vine Zinfandel vineyards in California today. He also addresses the ups and downs that Zinfandel has encountered in the broader United States wine market, and its position today. Joel then shares his advice to someone starting out in the winemaking business right now.

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459: Jasper Morris Goes Deep on the Burgundy Crus Jan 12, 2019

Show notes

Jasper Morris is the author of the book "Inside Burgundy: The Vineyards, the Wine, & the People", as well as the website Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy.

Jasper gives both an overview of his own career as a wine importer and Burgundy specialist, and an overview of the vineyards of Burgundy. Jasper goes from north to south along the Côte d'Or, giving his unfiltered opinion about the different communes and crus along the way. Specific vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges, the hill of Corton, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet all are talked about in-depth. Jasper also addresses how Burgundy has changed since the 1970s, recalls visits to some of his favorite producers, and discusses some of the important topics in the bigger Burgundy conversation today. Those topics include winemaking style shifts, the market for the wines, premox, clones, and changes in the vineyard work in the region.

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458: Luis Seabra Opposes the Winemaking Orthodoxy Dec 29, 2018

Show notes

Luis Seabra is the proprietor and winemaker at Luis Seabra Vinhos, producing dry wines from the Douro Valley and the Vinho Verde regions of Portugal.

Luis discusses his beginnings working as a plant specialist at an university, his work doing vineyard trials for the Portuguese government, the nine years that he made dry wines at the house of Niepoort, and on to the founding of his own winery. Over the course of the interview Luis takes up all kinds of topics relating to Portuguese wine, such as vine material, grape varieties, the soil types in different areas, historical wine blending practices, and the winemaking norms in differnet parts of the country, as well as how those have changed over time. He explains the evolution in his own thinking concerning both winemaking and vineyard practices. Luis clearly illustrates what he means by contrasting his own thoughts and techniques with the dominant thinking in the surrounding area. Those wanting a deep dive into topics like whole cluster, skin maceration, pressing, and élevage, will find Luis a capable guide. He also discusses the different character of recent vintages for his own wines.

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457: Jeanne-Marie de Champs Does Not Follow the Trends Nov 25, 2018

Show notes

Jeanne-Marie de Champs is the proprietor of Domaines et Saveurs Collection, an exporter of Burgundy and other wines from France. She is based in Beaune.

Jeanne-Marie discusses arriving in Burgundy from the Loire Valley, and the situation for Burgundy in the 1970s and 1980s. She explains why she started her own business exporting wines, and the changes in the American wine market that were happening as she was developing her own business. Jeanne-Marie highlights some of the vigneron in Burgundy who helped her learn about that region, and recalls notable vintages. She also explains her philosophy for choosing wines, and points out some appellations of Burgundy that she finds particularly appealing today. There is also a sense given of how Burgundy, and the reception for the wines from there, has changed over the years.

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456: Ehren Jordan Has Eyes for Oregon Oct 19, 2018

Show notes

Ehren Jordan is the proprietor of the Failla winery, which specializes in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah from California and now also Oregon. Ehren is also the owner of the Day wine label, working with Zinfandel.

Ehren discusses his decision to work increasingly with fruit from Oregon vineyards, while comparing and contrasting those with the vineyards he is familiar with in California. He also addresses aspects of his winemaking in Oregon, in terms of technique. Reduction in wine is something that he talks about at length. Ehren also highlights his interest in working with Gamay, Savagnin, Syrah, and other grape varieties from Oregon, in addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There is also a consideration for what the wine market is today within this conversation, and what the current market means for both the production and sales possibilities for wines from both Oregon and California. Day, which is Ehren's Zinfandel project, is also discussed.

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455: Jean-Pierre de Smet and the Burgundy Community Aug 09, 2018

Show notes

Jean-Pierre de Smet was a co-founder and partner in Domaine de l'Arlot, the winery based in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation. Jean-Pierre retired from l'Arlot in 2007, and has since that time been helping his friend Didier Fornerol make the Domaine Didier Fornerol wines, also in France's Burgundy region.

Jean-Pierre provides key insights into a number of Burgundy winemaking techniques, and also about the people he knew and has worked alongside with in Burgundy since the 1970s. Jean-Pierre is very clear about the influences on him of people like Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac), Anne-Claude Leflaive (Domaine Leflaive), and Patrick Bize (Domaine Simon Bize), and how he integrated their ideas and help into his own work at Domaine de l'Arlot. There are numerous details provided about topics like whole cluster, the speed of a fermentation, vine training, the vintages of the 1980s and 1990s, the nature of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée crus, white vs. red winemaking, and climate change. Jean-Pierre also gives a clear picture of the Burgundy community of the 1980s, and of a group of vigneron who would go on to become famous names in the region and across the world. Those who want to understand the history of Burgundy from the 1970s through to today would benefit from listening to this episode.

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