Stay ConnectedThe Fashion Your Seatbelt podcast gives its listeners the rare opportunity to hear from some of the leading voices working in the fashion industry today. Each podcast is an exclusive one-to-one conversation with a creative who is crafting the future of fashion. Hosted by the renowned and award-winning fashion journalist Jessica Michault, this podcast is designed to take its audience directly to the heart of fashion and discover what makes it tick.
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Sometimes it just feels like destiny when a designer lands at a fashion house. This is the case for British designer Louise Trotter, who took up the mantle of creative director at Lacoste at the tail end of 2018. Growing up she played a considerable amount of tennis and Lacoste was always her go-to label. Her husband is also a bit of a tennis nut and over the years has built up his own collection of Lacoste pieces that take up considerable room in his closet. But perhaps the most profound connection comes from the one that Louise feels with the founder of the company, René Lacoste. His rebellious decision to become a tennis player on his own terms resonated with Louise, who from a very early age knew she wanted to be a fashion designer, a career path that really wasn’t a consideration for most kids growing up in the north England town of Sunderland. It was René’s moral code and approach to life on and off the courts that Louise connected with. His strategic yet stylish way of playing the game, his sense of fair play, tenacity, and bringing joy into whatever he did, are all values that are close to Louise’s own heart. And it's the reason why, while still riding high after a successful 10-year stint at the label Joseph, she decided to make the leap to Lacoste and become the brand’s first female creative director in the house’s almost 90-year history. Since her arrival at the house, Louise had been quick to put her own stamp on the label. Her signature aesthetic slants to the oversized; be that silhouettes, patterns and prints, or even the iconic Lacoste crocodile. And her approach to the performance wear heritage of the house has been to look at it as creating clothing that “performs” daily. Day in and day out, week after week. Garments that are so well made, flattering, and still maintain a fashion-forward viewpoint that they are the ones that men and women continually turn to. But what I found perhaps most appealing about Louise during our interview was that she is all about the work. She is not a diva designer with an ego that could fill a room. If she doesn’t know about something, say having an encyclopedic knowledge about high tech performance fabrics, she says so, takes steps to educate herself, and is always looking to learn new things. She is one of those “best idea wins” designers. Encouraging her staff to speak up and she has created a workplace that promotes teamwork. For Louise, each collection is a new chapter in a continuous journey of sartorial discovery.After listening to this podcast, and learning about how Louise likes to work, Lacoste is probably going to find itself inundated with resumes from people wanting to learn from a leader who is as open, inclusive, and creative as Louise.
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I’ll never forget my first Christian Lacroix fashion show. Watching all of the supermodels walk his catwalk in outfits that mixed colors, patterns, and prints in combinations my mind could never have conceived would ever work together, let alone look as fabulously as they did on the Lacroix catwalk. Lacroix’s shows were always full of energy, passion, and precision but above all love...with just the perfect dash of joie de vivre added in for good measure. By the end of every show, the audience was always revved up to throw out onto the catwalk, during the grand finale, the single carnation that was systematically placed on each seat at each show throughout the designer’s prodigious career. That was why, when I showed up at the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show and saw a single carnation sitting on my seat...well...I am going to be honest...my heart skipped a beat. Was this the return of Lacroix I asked myself? And to a certain extent, it was. The famed designer, who had walked away from the catwalk after his fall/winter 2009 haute couture show, was back. This time working in collaboration with Van Noten for one season only. Let’s just say it was a fashion moment, and the show was certainly a highlight in my career. But Lacroix hasn’t been in hiding since he stopped doing fashion shows. He turned to theater and Opera houses, creating dreamlike confections for the stage. A place where his theatrical sartorial inclinations were right at home. And also he consulted for big name brands in need of a designer who is a master of the color wheel and has never met a print he doesn’t like.I spoke with Christian in the wake of his triumphant return to the catwalk. To take a joyful stroll down memory lane together. For me, it was a pure moment of bliss. I know, when you listen to our conversation, it will be one for you as well.
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When you meet Marine Serre for the first time, it is hard not to notice; or maybe a better word would be feel, the pent up energy in her diminutive frame. It is easy to understand why she spent years as a child playing tennis at almost a professional level before turning her drive towards design. You can practically see the wheels turning in her head as if she is doing a million things at once. And yet...and I don’t know exactly how... Marine also has a reserved shyness about her. It is a potent and powerful combination that honestly just makes you want to get to know her better.With all that has happened in the world in the past six months, Marine’s fashion seems almost Cassandra-like. Her signature house is built on the concept of using up-cycled materials to make her garments - and then she presents them in post-apocalyptic themed runway shows., often with her models wearing face masks and gloves, carrying reusable water bottles and armbands made into mini backpacks. Fashion, including her now iconic demi-lune motif full bodysuits, that seem purposely designed with protection from the elements in mind. The 27-year-old designer was born in the little village of Corrèze in France but by the age of 14 she had left home to pursue her love of art and fashion. She went on to attend the famed La Cambre fashion and design academy in Belgium, graduating with honors in 2016. Then came a string of internships at top houses like Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, and Dior before Marine landed a junior designer job at Balenciaga. And it was while she was still working at Balenciaga that, to her surprise and no one else’s, she won the top LVMH Prize in 2017. The youngest designer ever to hold that honor. Since then, Marine has been on fire. Using all of that crackling energy of hers to expand the number of lines she produces each season to celebrate different aspects of her up-cycling creative esthetic. She also has added into the mix a menswear line, has done collaborations with the likes of Nike, and has seen her work worn by global powerhouse females like Beyonce, the group Black Pink and Dua Lipa.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Marine and I did our interview before the global pandemic put the world into confinement, and kept me from accessing this audio recording. So I hope you enjoy taking an auditory trip back in time. When the world was much more innocent and before Marine’s sartorial philosophy became the new normal.
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The art of a costume designer is to tell a story without saying a word. So let’s just get this straight right from the start, Hollywood costume designer Mary Vogt has spoken volumes over her impressive career. One that is filled with spellbinding sartorial stories that have stood the test of time. Because let’s face it, it doesn’t get more iconic than having the ensembles you designed for a film become tentpole cosplay outfits and Halloween costumes for generations.Mary is the mind behind the amazing costumes in the staple Halloween film Hocus Pocus that starred Bette Midler and Sarah Jessica Parker. She is also the woman who came up with Michelle Pfeiffer’s unforgettable Catwoman suit in Batman Returns. And she made “I make this look good” Will Smith and the rest of the Men In Black team look sharp and sleek over the span of the three MIB films. And for those of you who are more interested in fashion-focused feature films, well then you can thank Mary for bringing you Crazy Rich Asians. Arguably the most fashion-loving film of recent memory, filled with one unforgettable designer outfit after another.From a very young age, Mary knew that being a costume designer was her calling. While everyone else in her theatrical hometown of Long Beach, Long Island wanted to be an actor and stand center stage in the local theater troupe, Mary was only interested in creating the costumes. After high school, she attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and then later she went to the Art Center College of Design in Pasadena, California. She quickly realized that instead of being a traditional fashion designer, her creativity was sparked by a good story or character which she could then build a wardrobe around. Mary got her toe in the door in Hollywood as an illustrator and then eventually got her first big break working alongside Bob Ringwood on David Lynch’s epic film Dune and would work with Ringwood again later, but this time as his co-designer, on Tim Burton’s Batman Returns. And we all know what costumes came out of that collaboration. With close to 50 costume designer film credits under her belt, Mary is at the top of any Hollywood director’s must hire list. Her expert ability to use clothing to help her directors advance their story or transmit the underlying message they want to subconsciously communicate with their audience is highly sought after. All you have to do is take a look at her most recent collaboration, with Gina Prince-Bythewood, the director of the Netflix film The Old Guard - that drops today on the streaming platform - to understand just how skilled Mary is at telling a story with clothing. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Mary and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.And now it's time for Mary to come out from behind the curtain and take a well-deserved bow under the spotlight and at the center stage of this podcast.
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What is that old saying, “do a job that you love and you will never work a day in your life”. That is the life that Gabriella Cortese is lucky enough to lead. She is the founder and visionary behind the brand Antik Batik and as part of her job, she gets to travel the world for months at a time looking for new ways to incorporate the beauty of ethnic designs and craftsmanship of local artisans into her Bohemian chic collections.Born in Turin, Italy Gabriella grew up with eclectic style inspirations all around her. Her mother instilled in her a love of beautiful things and an eye towards well-made clothing. While her Hungarian grandmother expanded her style palette by introducing her to the beauty of the Mitteleuropa aesthetic. After living a rather sheltered childhood Gabriella decided to explore the world when she turned 18.A choice that found her living in Paris, France, and working as a dancer at the famed Crazy Horse cabaret. There she learned how effective the use of pattern and light can be as it plays on the body. A skill that would come in handy later at Antik Batik when she began to design clothing out of graphic and dramatically printed fabrics. But before the idea of starting a label had ever entered into her mind, Gabriella decided that while she was young she wanted to continue to see the world and she spent years visiting places like Bali, Tibet, Nepal, and India. Then, not unlike Ralph Lauren who got his start selling men’s ties, Gabriella began her business by selling a single item - the Pareos. Her beautiful wrap skirts, that she had created with local artists in Bali using the batik printing technique, were an instant hit. So in 1992 she launched Antik Batik and began to corner the market for those women looking for a sophisticated slant on hippy chic ethnic fashion at a time when minimalism was at its peak. From its inception, Gabriella was determined that Antik Batik would be an eco-friendly brand dedicated to supporting artisans in far-flung countries who have the unique skill set to create her colorful and richly embroidered designs. And for the past three decades, she has built up long-lasting relationships with many of her suppliers in India and elsewhere. She sees them as part of her extended family and the work they do as the beating heart of her successful business. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Gabriella and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now, it's time to discover how Gabriella built up a global business out of her passion for travel and her devotion to ethnic elegance.
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Rebecca Todd is one of those “she is just born with it” stylists. Self-taught and a straight talker she is at the top of the stylist game in Hollywood. And that is because Rebecca is constantly hustling, networking, and pushing herself creatively. That drive has resulted in a highly successful career in both styling and costume design that spans over 20 years. And her mile-long list of clients includes everyone from Blake Lively, Kobe Bryant, Melissa McCarthy, and Dwayne Johnson to Elle MacPherson, Ryan Hansen, Lizzy Caplan, and the one and only Betty White. Rebecca started out in Hollywood in public relations, which evolved into merchandising and buying before she got bitten by the stylist bug. And almost from the moment she decided that being a stylist was her dream job her career took off. In less than a year, she was styling for America’s Next Top Model and then became the head of the wardrobe departments of numerous shows on the E! Entertainment channel and The Style Network.Over the span of her career, she has done everything from celebrity styling and fashion magazine editorials for publications like Flaunt, People, Us Weekly, LA Confidential and Maxim to creating the visual story for advertising campaigns for companies such as Ford, Nike, Pepsi, Starbucks, Showtime, Google, AT&T, Budweiser, Toyota, and Universal Studios - just to name a few. Not to mention her red carpet work at all the top awards shows, The Oscars, The Emmys, The Golden Globes as well as the MTV Music and MTV Video awards shows. Earlier this year she continued to challenge herself during the quarantine and designed to launch her own clothing line called Grey Hayes. Its message t-shirts, hats, and masks are all inspired by the lockdown. The clothing, sporting phrases like Stay Home, Worst Birthday Ever, Essential, Back The F#CK Up and Mental Distanced, have been selling like hotcakes. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Rebecca and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now to all you future stylists out there, get out your pens and paper and pay close attention to what Rebecca has to say in this podcast. Her tips and tricks are a masterclass on not only how to become a successful stylist, but also how to stay on top in Hollywood.
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In the fashion world, there are a handful of times that you run across an up and coming designer that is so earnest, articulate, and talented that you make a secret wish in your heart that you hope they’ll make it big. That is exactly how I felt after talking with the 28-year-old designer Kevin Germanier for this podcast. I had seen his work before first hand at press day presentations in Paris. And Kevin’s vibrant, beaded, and bold designs always stood out. But what also made them stand out in my mind was when I discovered that his garments were of the luxury upcycled variety. Kevin’s made to measure and limited edition collections are as far away from the hippy hemp and organic cotton, Birkenstock wearing image - that sustainable fashion is still strongly associated with- as you could get. This Swiss-born designer, who graduated from Central Saint Martins and launched his signature line in 2018 while still a junior designer at Louis Vuitton, found a way to make sustainable fashion look sexy. Look feminine. And look fun. His sculptural silhouettes and love of embellishments firmly place his work in the “statement dressing” category. But isn’t it nice to know that his commitment to conscious design sees his garments covered in shimmering upcycled crystals from Swarovski and the fabric comes from offshoots that are getting a second lease on life.Not surprisingly Kevin’s vivid designs have already been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Björk, and K-pop star Sunmi. He was also shortlisted for the 2019 LVMH Prize for young designers. And the leading fashion e-commerce platform MatchesFashion picked up his debut collection for its site, which it has been carrying ever since. So it looks like he is off to a very strong start. And maybe that secret wish of mine might actually come true. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Kevin and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now come with me to discover the glamorous, colorful, and eco-friendly world of Kevin Germanier.
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A self-described “supply chain nerd” Hillary France, the CEO and co-founder of Brand Assembly, is helping fashion creatives focus on crafting their visions of the future while she and her team take on the day to day, back of house fundamental tasks that any growing small business has to master if it wants to become successful. Her full-service BtoB business does everything from bookkeeping, warehouse management, and running e-commerce operations to creating costing sheets, merchandising and sales plans, and even social media and global marketing strategies. But Hillary, who founded her company in 2013, wanted to do even more for her clients. She also organizes trade shows and created a co-working space called The Square, with locations in New York and Los Angeles, for people to meet up and hopefully collaborate on the next big thing. She also hosts monthly panels and workshops to help her clients stay on top of the latest innovations taking place in the industry.Before branching out on her own, Hillary, who is a graduate of Duke University, cut her retail buying and wholesale teeth at marquee brands like Diane von Furstenberg, Kate Spade, Guess and Kimberly Ovitz. And was even behind the launch of the Rachel Zoe brand for the Li and Fung company. Today, just like thousands of other fashion-focused companies Hillary has had to pivot her business working model post-pandemic as the world continues to maintain social distancing practices. Brand Assembly is launching later this month its first ever virtual tradeshow platform with two portals: one for Brand Assembly Show called Pages and one for Reassembled Show called Grid. Brand Assembly is also adding other forms of virtual content such as panel discussions, workshops and showroom walk-throughs on Zoom on the dates they would usually have had their in-person trade show, from June 22nd through to June 24th.The tag line for Brand Assembly is “Our mission is simple: help brands reach theirs”. It is clear that Hillary has taken this message to heart and has no intention of letting something like a global pandemic or a corona economy keep her from giving brands the support they need to become the successes they always dreamed of. Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Hillary and I did our interview over Zoom Video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now let’s listen to Hillary talk about how she sees the future of fashion shaping up, as she takes on the topics of seasonal collections, markdown cycles, and the growing power of the digital space for fashion brands.
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It says something about a brand that when you click on the about page on its website to get the backstory on the designer, a YouTube video of her boxing in the center ring at Madison Square Garden pops up. Showing her winning her title fight in front of a sold-out crowd. If nothing else the footage clearly illustrates that designer Nellie Partow knows how to roll with the punches and has no intention of ever being down for the count.Which is a good thing considering that her independent label finds itself in that ambiguous middle ground of no longer being a new brand on the rise nor one that has achieved world domination. Partow, which the designer launched in 2011, is one of those sleeper hit fashion houses. You know the ones I am talking about. The brands whose names you whisper in the ears of only your closest friends when they ask you where you got that amazing relaxed fit purple suit or the dress with architectural pleating on the bodice or strategically placed cut-outs. Partow’s aesthetic is one of modern minimalism. Where the use of color and structural detail work help to elevate the understated foundation to a more refined realm. Nellie’s design approach is perfectly understandable considering that - after graduating from Parsons - and just like with her boxing training, she put in the hours, days, months, and years learning her craft. Working at Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and John Varvatos for a cumulative 10-year stint before she hung up her own shingle. Her slow but steady wins the race philosophy to fashion has worked well for Nellie. Only three years after launching her brand she found herself making a profit. Something that is almost unheard of in the industry. In 2015 she became a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, AKA the CFDA. And 2019, according to the designer, was her best year yet - as she started to scale up her label adding in new categories to her staple “work as hard as the woman wearing them” designs. Even the pandemic hasn’t stopped her from moving forward with the launch, this month, of an e-commerce component to her website.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that Nellie and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues and the sound of Nellie’s very friendly dog Mika barking with excitement while we chat. Also if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now, for all you future fashion designers out there my advice would be to take a page out of Nellie’s playbook. She launched her brand in the wake of the 2008 recession but since then she has continually been punching above her weight to create a knockout brand that has the potential to go all the way.
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I have known JJ Martin for my entire professional career. And yet, until this podcast interview, I hadn’t realized just how much our lives were parallel. We are both California girls, we both left the United States to follow our hearts to Europe, and we both became top fashion journalists in international fashion capitals. Now all of this is a fun side note to this interview. But the real reason I wanted to speak with JJ is to finally learn the how and why behind her choice to launch her company, La Double J, in 2015. If ever there was an inspirational story about how to be fearless when it comes to pivoting and creating a second act for your career, it’s JJ’s story. But I am getting a bit ahead of myself. In this podcast, you will hear all about how JJ was able to start to follow her passion for fashion through the fields of advertising and marketing. How she ended up living in Milan, not speaking a word of Italian. And how a chance meeting with the renowned fashion journalist Godfrey Deeny put her on the path to becoming one of the top fashion writers in Milan, eventually spending 15 years on staff at publications like The Wall Street Journal, Harper’s Bazaar and *Wallpaper. Today, however, JJ’s love of fashion, and more specifically bold prints and great Italian artisans, has manifested itself into one of the industry’s most beloved independent businesses. La Double J is an e-commerce website that extols all things vibrant and vivid. Her curated selection of vintage patterned prints on easy to wear dresses, pants, and tops have made her site the go-to place for anyone who loves to be the center of attention when they walk in a room. Better yet, JJ has smartly evolved the company to become an avenue for her to highlight the work of Italian artists and brands that she feels need to be celebrated, such as the porcelain company Ancap, the Venetian glassmaker Salviati, the luxury handbag company Valextra and Acqua di Parma, by creating collaborations that blend their work with her own uniquely colorful universe. More recently JJ has expanded La Double J even further into the lifestyle brand space with a new focus on the world of wellness and helping women around the planet find their inner goddess. In the section on her site dedicated to living like an Italian, JJ discusses topics like the power of color on the psyche, chakras, and the movement practice of Qi Gong.Just on a technical side note, I did want to let all you listeners know that JJ and I did our interview over Zoom video. So don’t be surprised by a couple of very minor audio issues. And if you happen to be more of a visual learner, feel free to head over to my signature YouTube channel to watch the video version of this podcast in action.Now get ready to be inspired by JJ’s story. How she was able to manifest the career she wanted through passion, determination and hard work should motivate all of us. now more than ever, to start following our dreams.
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