Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty

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Episode 174: Sewing As A Part of Slow Fashion with Zoe of Check Your Thread (part 2) Sep 04, 2023

Show notes

Amanda is joined by Zoe Edwards, host of Check Your Thread. This is part two of their conversation. Zoe gives us advice on how we can sew more sustainably. And Amanda explains "fast fashion 3.0" and Cider.

Get connected with Zoe:
Check Your Thread
Introduction to Garment Fabrics (by Zoe)
Zoe's personal sewing blog

Instagram: @checkyourthread

Additional reading:
"How Cider became TikTok’s go to brand, despite ‘cultural appropriation’ and ‘stolen’ designs," Lydia Venn, The Tab.
"Don’t Bother Looking for the Next Shein," Avery Booker, Jing Daily.
"The Search for the Next Shein," Chavie Lieber, Business of Fashion.
"Knitwear is slow, the knockoffs come fast," Mansee Khurana, The Verge.
"Gen Zers are in love with Cider, an Andreessen Horowitz-backed competitor to Shein," Lakshmi Varanasi, Insider.
"a16z-backed Shein challenger Cider is growing rapidly," Rita Liao, Tech Crunch.

Special thanks to this episode's sponsors:

Soft Work, intuitive garment construction for beginners. Registration open until 9/22!

Osei-Duro! Find them on Instagram as @oseiduro.
Use promo code CLOTHESHORSE20 to get 20% off your order!

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com
Learn more about this month's audio essay opportunity here.

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: amanda@clotheshorse.world
Or call the Clotheshorse hotline: 717.925.7417

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month. New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at decodenim.com to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as @deco.denim.

Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). Slow Down Nola only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at @slowfashiongabriela to book a consultation.

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a "velvet jungle" full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet.

Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Selina Sanders, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts. Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in on...

Episode 173: Sewing As A Part of Slow Fashion with Zoe of Check Your Thread (part 1) Aug 27, 2023

Show notes

Amanda is joined by Zoe Edwards, host of Check Your Thread. This is part one of their conversation. They will be talking about how and why Zoe started a podcast about sewing and her relationship with sewing. They will also unpack the privileges that make sewing more challenging or inaccessible for many people (and how it could be better). Amanda explains the connection between Temu, "996" work culture, and forced labor.

Get connected with Zoe:
Check Your Thread
Introduction to Garment Fabrics (by Zoe)
Zoe's personal sewing blog

Instagram: @checkyourthread

Further reading:
"New employee death at Chinese tech giant Pinduoduo prompts calls for boycott," Lily Kuo and Lyric Li, The Washington Post.
"The Truth About Temu, the Most Downloaded New App in America," Andrew R. Chow, Time.
"Worker Deaths Put Big Tech in China Under Scrutiny," Vivian Wang, The New York Times.
"China’s latest tech darling is selling a treasure trove of fake goods," Echo Huang, Quartz.
"The Latest Hot E-Commerce Idea in China: The Bargain Bin," Raymond Zhong, The New York Times.
"China’s ‘996’ Work Culture Under Scrutiny After Employee’s Death," Heather Mowbray, CX Tech.
"Tired of 996? Get Ready for 715 and the Return of China’s ‘Evil Capitalists’," Han Xu, CX Tech.
"Rise at 11? China’s Single Time Zone Means Keeping Odd Hours," Javier C. Hernandez, The New York Times.
"What to know about Temu, one of the most downloaded shopping apps," Shira Ovide, The Washington Post.
"Shein and Temu’s battle for US bargain shoppers is getting nasty," Michelle Toh, CNN.
"Congress Spotlights ‘Serious’ Forced Labor Concerns With Chinese Shopping Sites," Ana Swanson and Claire Fu,The New York Times.
Congressional report on forced labor.

Thanks to this episode's sponsor, Lucky Sweater. Use invite code "clotheshorse" to join today!

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). Slow Down Nola only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at @slowfashiongabriela to book a consultation.

Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Salt Hats: purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some sweari...

Episode 172: Unpacking our relationship with ultra fast fashion with Danielle Vermeer (part 2) Aug 20, 2023

Show notes

It's the second half of Amanda's conversation with Danielle Vermeer, co-founder and CEO of Teleport, “a next-gen thrifting app to discover, buy, and sell from outfit videos.” They will be talking about greenwashing, PSYOPs, and online conversations around secondhand shopping…and so much more! Amanda gets things started with an in-depth look at a brand that seems to be flourishing in the era of ultra fast fashion, Dolls Kill.

Download the Teleport app.

Additional reading:
"ULTRA-FAST FASHION IS EATING THE WORLD," Rachel Monroe, The Atlantic.
"SF fashion startup Dolls Kill accused of plagiarizing independent designs," Ariana Bindman, SFGATE.
"Why Are People Boycotting Dolls Kill? An Explainer," Julia Sachs, Grit Daily.
Two days after posting item from Dollskill using MY OWN photos they hit me with this (Reddit)
PSA/Warning Regarding Sale or Resell of any Dolls Kill merch (Reddit)
Is Dolls Kill Even Worse Than We Thought...?, Pixielocks (YouTube)

Special thanks to this episode's sponsor, Osei-Duro! Find them on Instagram as @oseiduro.
Use promo code CLOTHESHORSE20 to get 20% off your order!

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Salt Hats: purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram @republica_unicornia_yarns and at www.republicaunicornia.com.

Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points. If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it! Vintage style with progressive values. Find us on Instagram at @CuteLittleRuin.

Episode 171: Unpacking our relationship with ultra fast fashion with Danielle Vermeer (part 1) Aug 06, 2023

Show notes

Amanda is joined by Danielle Vermeer, co-founder and CEO of Teleport, “a next-gen thrifting app to discover, buy, and sell from outfit videos.” They explore why Shein is so popular with Gen Z (and many, many millennials) despite their drive for social and environmental justice. Amanda gets things rolling with a breakdown of the evolution of fast fashion to ultra fast fashion and an explanation of the new Shein lawsuit.

Download the Teleport app.

Read more:
"TikTok Shop: The newest avenue for fast fashion," Oketa Zogi-Shala, Varsity.
"ULTRA-FAST FASHION IS EATING THE WORLD," Rachel Monroe, The Atlantic.
"Forever 21 Underestimated Young Women," Amanda Mull, The Atlantic.
"Shein Got Hit With a RICO Lawsuit. How Is That Possible?" Mike DeStefano, Complex.

Special thanks to this episode's sponsor, Osei-Duro! Find them on Instagram as @oseiduro.

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Find us on Instagram @shop_velvetunderground or online at www.shopvelvetunderground.com

Salt Hats: purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market. Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Gentle Vibes: We are purveyors of polyester and psychedelic relics! We encourage experimentation and play not only in your wardrobe, but in your home, too. We have thousands of killer vintage pieces ready for their next adventure!

Picnicwear: a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

Episode 170: Unpacking Our Shopping Habits with Isabel Varela Jul 30, 2023

Show notes

Amanda is joined by keynote speaker, life coach, master tailor, and sustainability activist Isabel Varela. At 26, she found herself with more than $100,000 in credit card debt...all from clothes, cosmetics, and accessories. She’ll tell us how she got there, how she got out of it, and how she has helped others work through their addiction to shopping. Also: Mall Madness and how your shopping search results may not be what you think they are.
Learn more about Isabel here: isabelvarela.com

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Salt Hats: purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month. New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com

Episode 169: How Toxic Fashion Is Making Us Sick with Alden Wicker Jul 23, 2023

Show notes

Amanda is joined by award-winning journalist and sustainable fashion expert, Alden Wicker. She will tell us about her new book, To Dye For: How Toxic Fashion Is Making Us Sick – and How we can Fight Back. We will be talking about the chemicals on brand new clothing being sold right now, what the impact of these chemicals is (and yes, it’s major nightmare fuel), and what we can do to protect ourselves. Also, Amanda explains why retailers are betting big on the Barbie movie and how collective nostalgia fuels consumerism.

Want more of Alden's expertise? Check out EcoCult!
Listen to The Department episodes about Kidulting here. (Or find them on your favorite streaming platform).

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

Blank Cass,or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram @blank_cass and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Episode 168: EPR & Textile Stewardship with Joanne of CPSC Jul 16, 2023

Show notes

This week, Amanda is joined by Joanne Brasch, PhD, the Special Projects Manager for the California Product Stewardship Council (CPSC). She is going to help us understand how EPR works and how it will impact business, planet, communities, and us as consumers. She also will tell us about all of the projects and stakeholders involved in CPSC’s projects and legislation goals. And she will tell us how we can practice our own “textile stewardship.” This episode also includes a message from Erin. Disclaimer from Amanda: I thought I did a good job of responding to Erin's message while I was writing and recording my response, but when I uploaded the transcript of her message, I realized that I did not address her questions about advertising, which I'll talk about more in the next episode!

CPSC Textile Stewardship
California Legislation
Sign on to support SB 707 (Newman) to create a textile EPR program in CA

Thanks to this episode's sponsor, Lucky Sweater. Use invite code "clotheshorse" to join today!

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, @vagabondvintage.dtlv and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, count...

Episode 167: Unpacking Dress Codes with Ruby and Maggie (part three) Jul 02, 2023

Show notes

Maggie Greene and Ruby Gertz are back for the final installment of our three part series about dress codes and uniforms. In this episode, we will be sharing stories about dress codes and uniforms from the Clotheshorse community. We’ll also learn more about uniforms, particularly in Japan, and the laws around uniforms here in the United States. And we’ll also do some exploration of the 1977 bestselling book, The Women's Dress for Success Book, which essentially laid down the framework for every magazine article, blog post, or book about dressing “professionally” for women that has been published since 1977. This episode includes thoughts and stories from Kimberly, Aimee, Allie, Liz, Leny, Ann, and Deb.

Additional reading:
"John T. Molloy Suits You for the Executive Suite," Henry Allen, The Washington Post (1978).
"Behind The Best Sellers," Judy Klemesrud, The New York Times (1978).
"School uniforms: What does the research tell us?," Gwen Dewar, Parenting Science.

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: amanda@clotheshorse.world

Check out Amanda's other podcast, The Department.

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Salt Hats: purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan.

Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market. Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at thumbprintdetroit.com and find us on instagram @thumbprintdetroit.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

Episode 166: Unpacking Dress Codes with Ruby and Maggie (part two) Jun 25, 2023

Show notes

Maggie Greene and Ruby Gertz are back to continue the conversation about dress codes. This episode is part 2 of 3. This week we will be tackling the concept of "professionalism" and how that ties into dress codes. We will do a deep dive into the different categories of professional dress. And we will get to the bottom of how/why these dress codes are enforced, despite the language within these policies being very subjective and unmeasurable. This episode also includes thoughts/stories from Pat, Jenny, and Carla.

We recommend reading Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History by Richard Thompson Ford.
Also check out "You Call It Professionalism; I Call It Oppression in a Three-Piece Suit," by Carmen Rios for Everyday Feminism.

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

Episode 165: Unpacking Dress Codes with Ruby and Maggie (part one) Jun 18, 2023

Show notes

Clotheshorse all-stars Maggie Greene and Ruby Gertz return to Clotheshorse to unpack dress codes and uniforms with Amanda. This episode is part one of a short series. In this episode, we’ll be talking about our own experiences with dress codes and uniforms. Ruby will give us a history lesson on the dress codes over the years. We’ll also unpack both implicitly stated dress codes and implied/socially prescribed rules around dressing, and some of them may surprise you!

We recommend reading Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History by Richard Thompson Ford.

Thanks to this episode's sponsor, Lucky Sweater. Use invite code "clotheshorse" to join today!

Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram @countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country!

Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground

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