Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

Latest Episodes:

#21: The Joy of Reclaimed Fabric with Sarah aka Sew Love NZ Dec 20, 2021

Show notes

It’s Episode 21 of CYT, and today we’re busting a big myth: that you have to be completely serious and joyless to be passionate about the environment, or to have any impact. I’m chatting with New Zealand based sewing teacher, maker and sustainability phenomenon, Sarah Lancaster, AKA Sarah Sew Love. (You can also hear her cat, Forest, in the background!) She shows us that having a vibrant aesthetic and awesome energy really helps her engage with others over important topics. We talk about how she set up a social enterprise to share sewing and mending skills around NZ, and how making more sustainable choices can bring your life extra layers of enjoyment rather than restricting it. She also shares her love of creating with reclaimed fabric to make her fantastic product range, how she scored her most precious piece of fabric, and her dream sewing tattoo! Be prepared to feel the (sew)love!

Listen to Ep. 124 of the Sustainable (ish) podcast with writer J.B. Mackinnon about his book ‘The Day The World Stops Shopping’ HERE.

Read the Guardian article about the study looking into the productivity of small scale food growing HERE.

Find Sarah Sew Love and her joyful aesthetic on Instagram HERE.

Her Etsy shop where she sells bumbags and towel ponchos is HERE.

The amazing video of Sarah showing how to wear your bum bag depending on your dancing style is HERE.

Sarah works for Xtreme Zero Waste in Raglan, New Zealand. Learn more HERE and HERE.

Other businesses and enterprises mentioned:

Fabricabrac (fabric markets around NZ) HERE.
My Keeper (sells and rents dresses and collaborated with Sarah on a range of bumbags) HERE.
DIY Daisy (colourful inspiration and garment tutorials) HERE.
Señorita Awesumo, (Zero waste pattern designer in NZ, with my tattoo) HERE.

#20: What thread should I buy? Dec 13, 2021

Show notes

Welcome to Ep. 20. In this solo episode, we literally check our thread! Of course, what fabrics we sew with is a big factor in the impact our garment sewing will have. And, increasingly, there are more and more options available to us to express our values and preferences in our thread choices as well. I break down the thread options for making our own clothes, then offer up some criteria on which to judge each option to help you make your mind up about what to pick. I mention a lot of specific brands and product ranges as examples you may choose to buy in this episode. See below for details of the products discussed.

The criteria I came up with for deciding which threads to use:

Is it made from a virgin resource or recycled one?
What environmental impact did the processing and dyeing have?
What social impact did the production have?
Will it biodegrade?
How much does it cost to buy?
How many colours is it available in?
What is the reel made of?
How strong is it?
How thick is it?
How shiny is it?

More on GOTS certification HERE.

**PLEASE NOTE: ALL LINKS TO WHERE TO BUY THE FOLLOWING THREADS ARE UK BASED COMPANIES**

Standard polyester thread:

The most well known brands are Gutermann (more info HERE), Mettler (more info HERE), Coats Moon and Drima.

Recycled rPET polyester thread:

Gutermann 100% recycled rPET thread (more info HERE, available in packs from Craft & Thrift HERE and singly from James Tailoring HERE) and Mettler offer 100% recycled rPET thread options.

Mettler produce a range called Seracycle (more info HERE)

The Amann group who make one called Serafil (more info HERE)

Portuguese brand Crafil make one called Denimfil Eco (more info HERE, available HERE).

Regular cotton thread:

Cotton thread by Coats (available from C&H HERE)

Tre Cerchi range by Coats (available from Sewing Gem HERE and William Gee HERE)

Italian brand Aurifil (more info on medium weight HERE and lighter weight HERE)

Gutermann cotton thread (more info HERE)

Organic cotton thread:

Organic cotton threads by Dutch company Scanfil (more info HERE, available singly HERE and on cones HERE)

Tencel thread:

Tencel thread range called Celofil by Crafil (more info HERE, medium weight available HERE, lighter weight available HERE)

Polyester covered cotton thread:

Rasant made by the Amann Group (more info HERE).

#19: Quilting and Considered Consuming with Shelly Sommer Dec 06, 2021

Show notes

Welcome to CYT! This episode (Ep.19) features a fascinating, wide-ranging and inspiring conversation with quilt-maker, Shelly Sommer. I thought we were going to be mainly discussing quilting, potentially as a way to use up fabric scraps and unwanted clothing, however Shelly is such an intelligent, thoughtful maker and human that our conversation ended up going off on a whole heap of interesting tangents.

We did talk about the traditions, purposes and changing role of quilts, and that led to her making lots of great points about more considered approaches to consuming. We also talked about creative collaboration, her job that is related to climate science, her thoughts on a circular economy plus various forms of activism and their role in creating social change. Shelly was such a pleasure, and although we got into some heavy topics, I really came away feeling positive and empowered.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Shelly Sommer on Instagram @encodedstudio.

Almost since she began sewing Shelly has used her skills to add bands to thrifted garments to make them longer. Some examples of Shelly’s lengthened garments:

Some information on the quilters from Gees Bend, Alabama HERE.

Listen to the powerful BBC World Service Documentary about the Gees Bend Quilters HERE (you need to have a BBC account or register for one to listen).

Shelly is part of the Boulder Modern Quilt Guild HERE.

The collaboration between Shelly and her friend using the antique letterpress can be seen HERE and HERE (and see below).

Shelly makes a collaborative quilt with the young people in her life when they turn 13. Her latest project uses reclaimed denim from her husband’s old jeans:

Latifah Saafir’s Glam Clam quilt pattern HERE.

My first attempt at a small baby’s floor quilt that used some pieces of work shirts HERE.

See a beautiful example of Shelly’s fabric scrap patchwork mosaics HERE (and see below):

Hilary Goodwin’s blog Entropy Always Wins HERE. Check out her incredible quilt about prescription narcotics HERE.

Sherri Lynn Wood HERE.

Chawne Kimber’s blog HERE.

One of Shelly’s favourite craft supply shop is Fancy Tiger Crafts that sends out their customers’ orders in fully recyclable packaging HERE.

#18: Rag Rugging with Elspeth Jackson Nov 29, 2021

Show notes

Welcome to Episode 18. As you may have noticed, I’ve always got my eyes peeled for interesting and useful ways to use up fabric scraps. In this episode I’ve got for you a conversation with author and rag rug expert Elspeth Jackson, to coincide with the release of her new book Rag Rug Techniques for Beginners which is out this week. Elspeth has carved out a career for herself based on teaching and writing about rag rugging, as well as selling kits and related products through her business Ragged Life. We chat about the history of rag rugs, their shifting role in society and how Elspeth came to adopt the rag rug tradition as a form of creativity. She also tells me what’s the simplest way to get involved, and most significantly perhaps for our purposes, how it can help us make the most of even the smallest fabric scraps.

Elspeth Jackson can be found via her website Ragged Life HERE and via Instagram @raggedlife.

Her new book ‘Rag Rug Techniques for Beginners’ is available via her website HERE, and from good book sellers.

Elspeth’s kits start from £19.99 for the basic kit, giving you an introduction to rag rugging HERE.

#17: What are zero waste sewing patterns? Nov 22, 2021

Show notes

Welcome to Episode 17! So whilst clothing made using zero and low waste practices is as old as clothing itself, zero waste patterns available for home sewing is a relatively new phenomena. This episode is an introduction to the topic, and I plan to build on it in the future with conversations with zero waste designers and practitioners.

The Zero Waste Fashion Design book by Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen via Bookshop.org HERE.

Liz Haywood’s Zero Waste Legacy Sewing ondemand class available HERE.

Check out the Zero-Waste Pattern Database for a pretty comprehensive list of all ZW sewing patterns currently available HERE.

Birgitta Helmersson HERE.

Liz Haywood’s website, The Craft of Clothes, HERE.

Milan AV-JC HERE.

Elbe Textile’s ZW Maynard dress pattern HERE, plus a free robe tutorial HERE.

Make/Use HERE.

CrisWood Sews HERE.

Thread Faction Studio, ZW patterns for children’s wear, HERE.

ZeroWasteDesignOnline HERE, plus on Instagram @zwdo_collective.

The amazing resource that is the Sewcialists blog has a whole series of posts as part of a Zero-Waste theme month they hosted in February HERE.

Love to Sew podcast devoted an episode to discussing various aspects of zero-waste sewing,

Episode 180: Zero Waste Sewing HERE.

Previous CYT guest, Wendy Ward, has a great blog post called Zero Waste Sewing HERE.

Seamwork has a fantastic blog post called ‘Zero-Waste Design: the creation of wastefree garments’, written by Jessica Yen HERE.

#16: Patternmaking in Public Places with Louisa Owen Sonstroem Nov 15, 2021

Show notes

It’s Episode 16 of CYT, and the second that features my conversation with Louisa Owen Sonstroem. Last week we heard about how Louisa embraced and became an expert in hand sewing clothing. This week we talk about a different, but equally fascinating topic: a project Louisa started in 2019 called Patternmaking in Public Places. PIPP aims to democratise access to patternmaking, by bringing it out from behind closed doors and sharing it with the public. Louisa tells us about the two very different incarnations this project has had so far. Want to know what happened when she undertook live demonstrations in front of unsuspecting members of the public in the parks of NY? Plus, we learn how she ingeniously pivoted, as well as expanded, the project in the wake of Covid. Much of Louisa’s PIPP project can be enjoyed by all for free via Youtube, and this conversation provides some enthralling background.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find out all about Patternmaking in Public Places HERE.

View all of the recorded demos with different patternmakers on YouTube HERE,

Louisa made a zine to commemorate and celebrate the project. You can buy a copy HERE.

#15: Hand Stitching Clothes with Louisa Owen Sonstroem Nov 08, 2021

Show notes

Welcome to Episode 15! Have you ever considered sewing a garment entirely by hand? I must admit that it had literally never occurred to me until I got to speak with today’s guest, Louisa Owen Sonstroem. This is the first of two Check Your Thread episodes with Louisa, and in this one we learn how a trained pattern cutter who works in the NY garment industry became an expert in this slow-sewing practice. We talk about how she fell in love with making her own clothes, but had an epiphany about her output of self-made garments, which reminded me of my conversation with Judith Staley for Episode 12 in fact. Louisa’s response was to embrace hand sewing garments, which for her opened up a whole new facet of creating. Louisa now teaches in person and online workshops and has written a beautiful self-illustrated book called ‘Hand Sewing Clothing: A Guide’. In this conversation we talk about the ins and outs, the whys and the hows, and we bust a big ol’ pile of myths about hand sewn clothing.

In the introduction I recommended the following incredible podcast episodes to check out:

The Wardrobe Crisis with Clare Press, Ep 150: Liz Ricketts - Waste Colonialism and Dead White Man’s Clothes HERE.

The Sustainable(ish) Podcast with Jen Gale, Ep 118: A Beginner's Guide to COP26 HERE.

You can find Louisa Owen Sonstroem HERE.

Louisa’s book and other products are available via her Etsy shop HERE.

In the UK, Louisa’s book can be bought from Beyond Measure HERE.

#14: Quick and Cheap Handmade Gift Projects Nov 01, 2021

Show notes

Let’s be honest, for those of us who sew, spending a couple hours at our sewing machine is probably preferable to the same time spent wandering around the shops or trawling websites trying to find someone the perfect gift. In this solo episode, I’m sharing heaps of ideas for presents we can create for our loved ones that won’t take an age or cost us a mint. All these ideas should take no more than an evening to make, a lot of them use patterns or tutorials that are free, and pretty much all of them can be made from scraps and leftover fabric, or even unwanted clothing!

I’ve broken these projects down into four categories: gifts for makers, simple accessories and clothing, homeware and gifts for kids.

Gifts for makers:

Tool roll tutorial by The Book Hut can be found HERE.

Image source: The Book Hut

Stowe Bag pattern by Grainline Studio HERE.

Image source: Grainline Studio

Simple Accessories & Clothing Gifts:

Sorrento Bucket Hat pattern by Elbe Textiles HERE.

Sandcastle Bucket Hat pattern by Waves & Wild HERE.

Reversible Bucket Hat pattern by Oliver + S HERE.

The Orton Bag pattern by Merchant & Mills HERE. In the episode I have said this is one is free however, it is now a paid-for pattern.

The byTilly shopper bag from byGraziela Fabrics HERE.

Image source: byGraziela Fabrics

Scrunchie tutorial by Melly Sews HERE.

Mittens pattern made by using wool knitwear by fibreandtwigs on Etsy HERE.

Mandy Boat Tee pattern by Tessuti HERE. Read by review of this pattern HERE.

Luna Tank pattern by Helen’s Closet HERE.

Dominique Skirt pattern by Tilly and the Buttons HERE.

My favourite face mask tutorial by Sophie Passmore HERE.

Homeware Gifts:

Apron pattern by Tessuti HERE.

Workaday Apron pattern by Merchant & Mills HERE.

Image source: Merchant & Mills

Oven Mitt pattern by Bombazine HERE. Read by review of this pattern HERE.

Fabric Bowl Cover tutorial by Hearth and Vine HERE.

Image source: Hearth and Vine

Gifts for Kids:

40 Free Sewing Patterns for Gifts for Kids blog post HERE.

My Favourite Free Children’s Sewing Patterns blog post HERE.

Batman Costume tutorial by Fleece Fun HERE.

Image source: Fleece Fun

Pom Pom Tutu Skirt tutorial by Brit + Co HERE.

Princess Dress Up Apron pattern by It’s Always Autumn HERE.

Easy Apron pattern by Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom HERE.

Oven Mitt pattern by Made for Mermaids HERE.

Gift Wrapping:

Furoshiki Wrapping Cloths tutorial by Wellness Mama HERE.

#13: Natural Dyeing with Amy Taylor Oct 25, 2021

Show notes

I’ve been promising to cover natural dyeing techniques for a while now, and I’ve made good on that promise with this episode! I got to speak to a talented and experienced natural dye expert, Amy Taylor. A practitioner and teacher based in Chicago, Amy shares so much information in this extended episode of CYT. We go into the history and techniques, plus she busts some myths and tells us some fun stories of her experiences dyeing fabric with natural substances. If you ever had any questions about this topic, this episode is for you!

Ms Amy Taylor website HERE and Instagram @msamytaylor.

Amy’s first natural dye teacher was Akemi Cohn who can be found HERE.

The teacher Amy had in Oaxaca, Mexico is Elsa Sanchez Diaz. I couldn’t find a direct contact for her, but you can find some wonderful pictures of her and her dye workshops on THIS BLOG.

One is Amy’s favourite natural dye substances is cochineal which makes an incredible, rich fuchsia colour (pictured below).

Amy’s most popular products are the tie dyed briefs undies (pictured below), found HERE.

A collaboration with designer Goli June Bridal resulted in stunning silk robes using the bundle dyeing technique using onion skins (pictured below), found HERE.

Gasali Adeyemo, Indigo dye expert HERE.

Michel Garcia, sustainable dye practice HERE.

Maiwa, natural dye supply store HERE.

Botanical Colors, suppliers and educators with Feedback Friday HERE.

Amy is also inspired by the following dyers, makers and organisations:

#12: Sew Over 50 with Judith Staley Oct 18, 2021

Show notes

Judith is the creator of, and one of the main driving forces behind, the biggest sewing community on Instagram, SewOver50. Whilst providing a virtual hub for conversation and inspiration for everyone, SewOver50 also pushes for the increased visibility of older people within sewing related industries. In our conversation, Judith tells me about the rapid creation of that community and the goals behind it. She also shares how her own revelations surrounding her wardrobe and sewing output sparked the idea for the fantastically inspiring challenge: #so50sustainablesewing.

The blog post mentioned in the introduction about handmade washable period pants can be found HERE

Find Judith on Instagram @judithrosalind

Read about Judith’s revelation in 2018 related to her wardrobe and sewing output HERE and HERE

Stacey Doodley’s documentary Fashion’s Dirty Secrets HERE (not currently available on iplayer but lots of clips are available on Youtube).

The True Cost, a powerful documentary about the clothing industry, is available on Youtube HERE

See Judith below in one of her awesome tops made using the LB Pullover pattern by Paper Theory.

Judith has posted a lot about her Vintage Linen Coat Project, see below for the incredible way that she handled the rust spots, and read about it HERE.

She’s using the September Coat pattern by Merchant & Mills.

Judith’s Insta-pal @redrubyrose is a talented natural dye expert and accessories designer/maker.

See one of Judith’s natural dye embroidery patches HERE.

The Destash for Kids with Cancer account is HERE (@destash_for_kids_with_cancer)

Find the Sew Over 50 community @sewover50, Judith founded it and co-runs it with Sandy @sunnydayz06

The amazing blog and community, The Sewcialists is HERE (it’s no longer running but all posts are still up to enjoy)

Blanca @blakandblanca is an incredible older sewist who was the inspiration behind the Blanca Flight Suit pattern by Closet Core Patterns.

#so50sustainablesewing is the hashtag that is definitely worth checking out!

Wardrobe Crisis podcast by Clare Press HERE.

Maria @velosews made an incredible jacket from a used coffee bean sack (pictured below). Check out her fantastic podcast Sew Organised Style HERE.

A big source of inspiration for Judith, and many others, is Tricia @morrissews.

Equally, Sue Stoney @suestoney is a talented maker and prolific creator. Read her blog HERE.

The Envelope Dress zero waste pattern by Cris Wood.

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