Check Your Thread: Sewing More Sustainably

Latest Episodes:

#131: Self-Drafting for Fitting Success with Elisalex Jewell Apr 22, 2024

Show notes

Do you want to create well fitting clothes, but you’re put off by having to make lots of changes to your pattern plus multiple toiles to test the fit? My guest, Elisalex Jewell, is an anythor and one of the founders of sewing pattern brand By Hand London. Elisalex tells us why self drafting using your own body measurements might be for you.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Elisalex Jewell is the co-founder of sewing pattern brand By Hand London. You can also follow her on Instagram (@elisalex).

Elisalex´s mum is Orsola de Castro (@orsoladecastro), the co-founder and creative director of Fashion Revolution, a not-for-profit activism movement which works towards a sustainable fashion industry

Elisalex has written a book with self-drafting tutorials and hacks called ‘Made to Measure: An Easy Guide to Drafting and Sewing a Custom Wardrobe’.

Elisalex prefers dot and cross paper for pattern drafting. UK-based people can order it from William Gee and from Morplan, among others.

Elisalex recommends DIY Daisy´s book, ‘Sew It Yourself’. You can listen to my conversation with Daisy:

Ep. #46: DIY Drafting and Inclusive Sewing with Daisy Braid

Rosie Martin has the blog ‘DIY Couture’ and wrote the book ‘No Patterns Needed: DIY Couture from Simple Shapes’.

Elisalex featured on Episode 30 of The New Craft House Podcast.

By Hand London’s circle skirt calculator is the original draft-it-yourself pattern!

Find all of By Hand London’s Draft It Yourself products on their website, including the Lucy dress (pictured below):

#130: Zoe & Kim go to The Stitch Festival Apr 15, 2024

Show notes

How can you attend a large sewing event more sustainably? Is it possible to avoid getting overwhelmed, to avoid regrettable impulse purchases and to actually enjoy yourself? I take my pal and previous-guest Kim Witten to her first major sewing event, The Stitch Festival in London. We gather advice on how to make the most of these events whilst getting inspired, making considered purchases and connecting with the wonderful sewing community.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Show notes:

**Click here to find the How to Sew Clothes from Fabric Scraps downloadable PDF**

Kim and I went to The Stitch Festival in London in March 2024.

Kim Witten is a Transformational Coach and Research Consultant.

Listen to Kim in previous episodes:

Kim enjoyed the printed jerseys on the Dots ‘n’ Stripes stand.

Zoe and Kim spoke to Charlotte (IG @lottejamiesoncrafts) on the Emporia Patterns stand. Emporia recently released two new patterns: Tony Shirt and Zoe Dress patterns.

Vicki Reid’s new fabric designs and buttons were produced in collaboration with Pigeon Wishes and can be found on her website What Vicki Made, along with her woven labels.

Sharon from Maven Patterns gave excellent advice about taking photos of things you like before committing to buying them. Listen to Sharon’s husband Richard on the podcast:

Fauve (IG @sew_fauve) and Asmaa (IG @sewgical_endeavours) from GBSB 2024 are collaborating as Imperfectly Perfect (IG @imperfectlyperfectbyfna) to run sewing classes in South Wales.

My lovely colleague Claire was working on the Fabric Godmother stand wearing a dress made using the Vali Dress & Top pattern from Pattern Fantastique.

We bumped into previous-guest Tony Rea (IG @tonyr.maker). Listen to the episode:

Ep. #124: Fearless Sewing with Tony Rea

Kim plans to use her olive green denim to make the Cosecha Pants pattern by Sew Liberated.

#129: How to Sew Clothes From Fabric Scraps Mar 25, 2024

Show notes

Would you like to have new types of creative fun whilst saving money AND reducing your environmental impact? Sewing clothes from fabric scraps gives you all these things, AND the results are always completely unique. Today I’m sharing everything I’ve learnt over the years about sewing clothes from scraps. And although there’s never a right way or wrong way to approach sewing with scraps, these pointers will help you get started quickly if it’s something you’d like to try.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

**Download the guide that accompanies this episode ‘How to Sew Clothes From Fabric Scraps’**

Listen to the following related episode:

Ep. #116: Improv Scrap Play with Sherri Lynn Wood

Fast track your fabric knowledge with the downloadable ‘Introduction to Garment Fabrics’ guide.

Pattern suggestions for self-piecing:

Brindille & Twig (all children’s)

Grainline Studios

Helen’s Closet

Named Clothing

Ninni Culottes

Tessuti Patterns

True Bias

Marlo Sweater

Waves and Wild

Driftwood Dolman (men’s/straight fit)
Field Trip Joggers (men’s/straight fit)
Field Trip Joggers (teen-male/straight fit)
Heyday Dungarees (adult’s)
Heyday Dungarees (children’s)

Pattern suggestions for pattern-led piecing:

Bel’Etoile

Isa Sweater, Dress & Top adults
Isa Sweater, Dress & Top kids

Blueprints for Sewing

Elizabeth Sweetwater

Jennifer Lauren Handmade

Emmie Tee

Matchy Matchy Sewing Club (most of them)

Megan Nielsen

Karri dress

Misusu Patterns (most of them) which include childrens as well as adult designs.

Sew Liberated:

Nest Sweatshirt

Tessuti Patterns

Lennox Sweatshirt

Tilly and the Buttons:

Sonny Jacket - there are lots of other panelled jacket patterns that would work equally well, but I’m suggesting the Sonny because it comes in a very inclusive size range.

Here are some wonderful, creative businesses and individuals who are creating awesome garments with piecing fabrics:

@tannerfrostbowen
@zerowastedaniel
@holycowsberlin
@broken.supply.co
@lesreloux
@softpawvintage
@threadandsprout
@isabelle_sews
@judywillimentross
@theconsistencyproject
@the.light.touch
@rachiesews
@m.o.s.s.o.m
@kionek
@spunkybruiser
@sweetfindupcycled
@elizabethsweetwaterpatterns
@pettypopcornmakes

Improv quilters, modern quilters and boro practitioners are also a fantastic source of piecing inspiration. Take a look at the following:

@sherrilynnwood
@momiyamatakao
@modernstitchwitch
@encodedstudio
@spontaneousthreads
@blue_movement2017

Two more resources that might be useful:

#128: Scrap Strategies, Part 2 Mar 18, 2024

Show notes

Have you got your fabric scrap strategy sorted yet? This is the second part of the Scrap Strategies episodes and we’ll be discovering more systems, solutions and uses from the Check Your Thread listeners. Then we summarise all we’ve learnt to help YOU choose what’s best for you!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Image source: Ksenia Chernaya via Pexels

Listen to:

Ep. #119: Seasonal Stash Organisation

Check out the resource Amy spoke about regarding textile recycling.

Thread and Sprout on Instagram (@threadandsprout) is a great source of inspiration for how to combine fabric scraps.

#127: Scrap Strategies, Part 1 Mar 11, 2024

Show notes

If you’re a garment sewer, I’m sure you’re more than aware of how quickly fabric scraps and leftovers can start to pile up. Your fabric scraps contain so much creative potential, but you need some strategies in place so they don’t overwhelm you. In this episode, we hear from CYT listeners who share what scraps they keep, how they store them, and what they use them for. Use these responses to form your own scrap strategies and solutions!

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Image source: Fiona Murray via Unsplash

#126: Sew the Precious with Stephanie Canada Mar 04, 2024

Show notes

Are there fabrics in your stash that you’re just too scared to cut into? I talk with Stephanie Canada, vintage sewing pattern and fabric seller, about when and why it's ok to use the precious fabric. Plus she shares her sourcing secrets, and tells us when it’s important to chuck vintage sewing resources in the bin…

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

The website I used to research the sustainability credentials of various banks is bank.green.

Find Stephanie’s shop at her website ‘Backroom Finds’.

You can also find her on Instagram @backroomfinds and on Youtube @StephanieCanada.

Listen to the first episode with Stephanie:

Ep. #125: Vintage Sewing Not Vintage Values with Stephanie Canada

Stephanie bought an entire sewing shop!

Stephanie recommends these reproduction pattern companies:

@WithLoveKristina on Youtube is Stephanie’s pal.

My most precious length of fabric:

Listen to:

#125: Vintage Sewing Not Vintage Values with Stephanie Canada Feb 26, 2024

Show notes

Do vintage sewing patterns make you swoon but you’re scared to try actually sewing with them? Vintage pattern obsessive and Youtube queen, Stephanie Canada, unpacks the perceived obstacles that may be holding you back. We also discuss the enjoyment of vintage style without the perpetuation of vintage values, and how using vintage resources might help us sew more sustainably.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Stephanie’s shop at her website ‘Backroom Finds’.

You can also find her on Instagram @backroomfinds and on Youtube @StephanieCanada.

Stephanie recommends these reproduction pattern companies:

The podcast episode I mentioned that featured Gretchen Hirsch (Gertie´s blog for better sewing and Charm Patterns) was The Craft Industry Alliance:

Episode #238: Gretchen Hirsch

Laci Fay can be found on Youtube @LaciFayTheVintageGirlNextDoor.

Stephanie made a video addressing the question: Why are Vintage Patterns So Small?

#124: Fearless Sewing with Tony Rea Feb 19, 2024

Show notes

What would it be like if we could enjoy complete freedom within our sewing lives? Free from the shoulds and shouldn’ts, the fears and even past experiences? My guest, Tony Rea, tells us how this mindset took him from sewing newbie to top-three-finalist of sewing’s most famous competition: The Great British Sewing Bee. Plus, Tony shares his formula for sewing more sustainably (spoiler alert: it involves a lot of thrifted duvet covers…).

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find out more about Tony on his website, and see his latest projects on Instagram @tonyr.maker.

Tony’s Etsy shop is stocked with handmade cycling caps in fun prints.

This Postman Pat shirt was clearly inevitable:

If you find yourself in Plymouth, swing by the Plymouth Scrapstore.

Tony made a Fabric Godmother Peony dress for his wife to attend Christmas events in.

Tony first encountered zero waste sewing patterns during the pattern challenge on GBSB:

Tony adapted Birgitta Helmersson’s ZW Block Pants and ZW Workwear Jacket patterns for his style and frame.

Image source: Birgitta Helmersson.

Tony wore a denim ‘suit’ created using these patterns which he modelled on the runway at the Knitting & Stitching show in London, October 2023.

Tony recently embarked upon the Studio Trouser Low Waste pattern by Norwegian brand, Indigo Indigo (@indigoindigo.no on IG).

#123: Sewing When Your Wardrobe is Full Feb 12, 2024

Show notes

Is your wardrobe stuffed with me-mades? Whatever role garment sewing plays in your life, after a while, the clothes can really start to pile up. So how can we continue to take pleasure in sewing, without adding to your problem of too many clothes?

Image source: Megan Lee via UnSplash

Idea No. 1: Challenging ourselves.

Hear more about hand stitching clothing:

Learn more about improving fit:

Ep. #95: Refining Fit with Kate Roberts

Options for online courses to learn and develop new skills:

Idea No. 2: Sewing things that aren’t clothes.

My favourite bag pattern designers:

Start your sew making journey at I Can Make Shoes.

Get inspired to make a quilt more sustainably by listening to the following previous episodes:

Idea No. 3: Sewing clothes for other people

Idea No. 4: Sewing for charity

Make washable menstrual pads for:

Make reusable tote bags for Boomerang Bags.

Make dress and other children’s garments from pillowcases for Little Dresses for Africa.

Idea No. 5: Mending!

Hear from super creative mending expert, Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald:

Get her book Modern Mending:

Consider the spectrum of mending possibility:

Ep. #68: Visible Vs Invisible Mending

#122: Zero Waste Sewing for Kids with Liz Elliott Feb 05, 2024

Show notes

What are the unique challenges that designing zero waste sewing patterns for children throws up? And the ways in which it might actually be easier? In this episode, Liz Elliott, the designer behind Thread Faction Studio, gives us a fascinating insight into her business and processes. We also discuss navigating life when your role as a parent and as a business owner are entwined.

Support the podcast over on Patreon!

Find Liz’s patterns on her website, Thread faction Studio, plus follow her on IG @threadfactionstudio.

Sew 4 Bub was Liz´s first blog where you can still access some free patterns.

Like every ZW pattern designer, Liz was inspired by The Zero Waste Fashion Design book by Holly McQuillan and Timo Rissanen.

See the ZW pattern look book on Thread Faction Studio website.

I’ve previously made the ZW Utility Jumpsuit pattern (my version) and the ZW Cap Sleeve Tee pattern (my version).

Image source: Thread Faction Studio.

Liz is a big fan of previous-guest Birgitta Helmersson’s book, Zero Waste Patterns.

Listen to my conversation with another Australia-based ZW pattern designer, Liz Haywood:

Ep. #31: Exploring Zero Waste Design with Liz Haywood

Find some of Liz’s previous ‘Hatchlings Patterns’, including grow-with-me baby/toddler styles, in Liz´s Etsy shop.

Listen to previous guest Alexis Bailey talk about her ZW pattern journey:

Ep. #74: Recognition and Responsibility with Alexis Bailey

I spoke about ZW sewing patterns on a reel made by Fabric Godmother in advance of a sewing class I taught that focused on Birgitta Helmersson’s ZW Cropped Shirt pattern.

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