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Back From Holiday Sep 06, 2020

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We talk about transitioning into autumn - which inspired some exciting new purchases - as well as the Netflix series Greenleaf, particularly Lady May’s wardrobe, and the HBO series Lovecraft Country and its visual references. See links below. Colourful Standard: https://colorfulstandard.co.uk/ AS Colour (the shop in Redchurch Street): https://ascolour.co.uk/ Craig Wright (creator), Johnetta Boone (costume design), Greenleaf (2016-20): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4971144/ Michael Patrick Jann (director), Mimi Melgaard (costume design), Drop Dead Gorgeous (1999): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0157503/ Matt Ruff, Lovecraft Country (HarperCollins 2016): http://www.bymattruff.com/lovecraft-country/ Misha Green (creator), Dayna Pink (costume design), Lovecraft Country (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6905686/ Libby Torres, ‘Lovecraft Country' is packed with historical references and hidden clues. Here's a guide to the ones you may have missed., Insider (1 September 2020): https://www.insider.com/lovecraft-country-historical-references-details-you-missed-2020-8 Erica Gonzales, Lovecraft Country’s Leti Uses Clothing as “an Armour”, Harper’s Bazaar (24 August 2020): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a33729791/lovecraft-country-costumes/ Gordon Parks, Segregation in the South (1956): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/segregation-in-the-south-1956 Margaret Bourke-White, The Louisville Flood (1937), Whitney Museum of American Art: https://whitney.org/collection/works/8061 Amy Sherman-Palladino (creator), Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017- ): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5788792/ Peter Farrelly (director), Betsy Heimann (costume design), Green Book (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6966692/

Love, Duty & Veiled Aristocrats Jul 26, 2020

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We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below. Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/ Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/ Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1aE411V7Bh/?spm_id_from=333.788.videocard.0 Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932) Irene Eber and Joan Hill, ‘Luo Chen (1883-1970), a Jewish Author in China’, Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies & Gender Issues, No. 31, (Spring-Fall 2017): https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2979/nashim.31.1.08 Patrick Galvan, Ruan Lingyu: Her Life and Career (documentary) (16 October 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cDg7wjsas Richard Meyer, Jin Yan: The Rudolph Valentino of Shanghai (Hong Kong University Press 2009): https://hkupress.hku.hk/pro/318.php Sam Juliano, ‘Cinema as Archaeology – Bu Wancang’s masterpiece Love and Duty (1931)’, Wonders in the Dark (27 May 2011): https://wondersinthedark.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/cinema-as-archaeology-bu-wancangs-masterpiece-love-and-duty-1931/ Anne Kerlan, ‘Love and Duty (Lian’ai yu yiwu) (1931)’, in Steve Neale, Silent Features: The Development of Silent Feature Films 1914-1934 (University of Exeter Press 2018) Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ Oscar Micheaux (director), Veiled Aristocrats (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023655/ Trailer for Veiled Aristocrats on The Criterion Channel: https://www.criterionchannel.com/veiled-aristocrats/videos/veiled-aristocrats-trailer Charles W. Chesnutt, The House Behind the Cedars (The University of Georgia Press 2000, first published 1900): https://ugapress.org/book/9780820321943/the-house-behind-the-cedars/ Charles Musser, The Films of Oscar Micheaux, The Criterion Channel (2016): https://www.criterionchannel.com/videos/the-films-of-oscar-micheaux Monica Drake, ‘Oscar Micheaux’, The New York Times (not dated): https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/oscar-micheaux-overlooked.html Oscar Micheaux (1884-1951): Micheaux Film Corporation, Norman Studios Online Museum: http://normanstudios.org/nsdrc/displays/oscar-micheaux/ Douglas Sirk (director), Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/ Nella Larsen, Passing (2003, first published 1929): https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/286575/passing-by-nella-larsen/

Willi Smith Jul 19, 2020

Show notes

We talk about the fabulous catalogue and wonderful website accompanying the ‘Willi Smith: Street Couture’ exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. See links below. Lou Stoppard, ‘The Phantom Handbag’, New York Times (16 July 2020): https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/15/style/coronavirus-handbags.html Dior Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 Haute Couture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxBFwqRbI8c Simone Vertua, ‘Show-in-a-box: Loewe celebrates the creative process’, L’Officiel (13 July 2020): https://www.lofficiel.co.uk/fashion-week/show-in-a-box-loewe Brit Bennett, The Vanishing Half (Hachette 2020): https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/brit-bennett/the-vanishing-half/9780349701448/ Lila Shapiro, ‘If You Can Perform Whiteness, Then What Does It Mean to Be White?’, Vulture (12 June 2020): https://www.vulture.com/2020/06/brit-bennett-the-vanishing-half-interview.html Helen Rappaport, Four Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Romanov Grand Duchesses (Pan 2015): https://helenrappaport.com/russia/four-sisters/ Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/channel/willi-smith-street-couture/ Willi Smith Community Archive: https://willismitharchive.cargo.site/ Alexandra Cunningham Cameron (editor), Willi Smith: Street Couture (Rizzoli Electa 2020): https://www.rizzoliusa.com/book/9780847868193/ Stephen Burrows: https://stephenburrows.com/ Scott Barrie: https://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2020/06/scott-barrie.html Arthur McGee: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/29/fashion/arthur-mcgee-dead.html Robin Givhan, ‘Patrick Kelly’s Radical Cheek’, Washington Post (31 May 2004): https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/2004/05/31/patrick-kellys-radical-cheek/7f404cd3-6f4d-4f28-8a24-6a0b398dba45/ Fréderic Tcheng (director), Halston (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9358192/

The Invisible Man Jul 07, 2020

Show notes

We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below. Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/ Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/ Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/ Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

Virtual Histories Jul 05, 2020

Show notes

We reflect on Rebecca’s MA Documenting Fashion students’ brilliant work this year and discuss the exciting virtual exhibitions ‘Jalebi’ by Ahluwalia and Laurence Ellis, and ‘"My Heart will always be in Brixton": Olive Morris’ by Linett Kamala with the Black Cultural Archives on Google Arts and Culture. See links below. Courtauld Institute of Art, MA History of Art Special Option: Documenting Fashion: Modernity, Films and Image in America and Europe, 1920-1960: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/ma-history-art/documenting-fashion http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ V&A, London, fashion exhibitions: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/exhibiting-fashion-victoria-and-albert-museum/5wKyuCOYoCgBIA?hl=en Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, fashion publications: https://tinyurl.com/tca9for Kwame Brathwaite: https://www.kwamebrathwaite.com/ Tanisha C. Ford: http://www.tanishacford.com/ The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/ Ahluwalia: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/ Jalebi, photographed by Laurence Ellis: https://www.ahluwaliastudio.com/jalebi-shop/jalebi Laurence Ellis: https://www.laurenceellis.com/ ‘My heart will always be in Brixton’: Olive Morris - An exhibition of artwork by Linett Kamala inspired by the activism of Olive Morris, Google Arts & Culture (2020): https://artsandculture.google.com/story/XwWReH6wADe8xA Linett Kamala: https://linettkamala.com/ Black Cultural Archives: https://blackculturalarchives.org/

David Copperfield Jun 28, 2020

Show notes

Armando Iannucci (director), Suzie Harman, Robert Worley (costume designers), The Personal History of David Copperfield (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6439020/ George Cukor (director), Dolly Tree (costume & wardrobe), David Copperfield (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026266/ Leigh Singer, ‘“The story is the least interesting part”: Armando Iannucci on adapting David Copperfield’, Sight & Sound magazine (21 January 2020): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/sight-sound-magazine/interviews/armando-iannucci-personal-history-david-copperfield-casting-modern-dickens-adaptation Melissa Bennett & Iyamide Thomas, ‘Meet the Krios of Sierra Leone’, Museum of London Discover (26 September 2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/meet-krios-sierra-leone-docklands London’s Fashion Alphabet – K for Krio, Museum of London (2019): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet/londons-fashion-alphabet-k Beatrice Behlen and Christine Supianek, ‘Peopling the Pleasure Garden: Creating an Immersive Display at the Museum of London’, in Mary M. Brooks and Dinah D. Eastop (editors), Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress (The Getty Conservation Institute, 2017): https://www.getty.edu/conservation/publications_resources/books/refashioning_redress.html Alison Toplis, ‘Smock Frocks: The Journey from Fieldwork to the Pages of Vogue’, Textile History, Volume 49, Issue 1 (2018): https://doi.org/10.1080/00404969.2018.1436245 Smock Shock: Deception and Disguise, Smock Frock Histories: www.smockfrock.co.uk

Jamel Shabazz Jun 21, 2020

Show notes

Rebecca is telling Beatrice about an online event she attended: a conversation with photographer and historian Jamel Shabazz, organised by Nights Global:. See links below. Nights Global: https://nightsglobal.com/ and @nightsglobal Bisoye Babalola: @bisoyebabalola Jamel Shabazz: http://jamelshabazz.com/index.html and @jamelshabazz Panel Members: @dupremethegod (@blackcotten_), @youngparis, Lamel Logan, Pamela Badila and Joe Cooper Jamel Shabazz, Ernie Paniccioli, Back in the Days: Photographs by Jame Shabazz (first published 2001): http://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/back-in-the-days/ Jamel Shabazz, A Time before Crack (first published 2005): https://www.powerhousebooks.com/books/a-time-before-crack-limited-edition/ Daryoush Haj-Najafi, ‘Jamel Shabazz: A Time Before Crack, Vice (27 May 2011): https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/qba9xm/jamel-shabazz-a-time-before-crack The Badila Family: https://www.facebook.com/TheBadilaFamily/ Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick, Cumbria: https://www.derwentart.com/en-gb/c/about/company/derwent-pencil-museum

Black Panthers & Agnès Varda Jun 13, 2020

Show notes

We talk about two documentaries about the Black Panther Party shot in 1968 by Agnès Varda: Black Panthers and Huey. See links below. Agnès Varda (director), Black Panthers (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209942/ Currently (June 2020) available to watch here: https://www.troiscouleurs.fr/le-festival-a-la-maison/court-metrage-black-panthers-dagnes-varda-a-voir-sur-mk2-curiosity/ Agnès Varda (director), Huey (1968): https://www.facebook.com/political.film/videos/1617020975008840/ Agnès Varda Q&A, Black Panthers and Other Short Works, Film at Lincoln Centre (12 May 2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo81Grb8A9Y Delphine Letort, ‘Agnès Varda: filming the Black Panthers struggle’, ORDA (L'Ordinaire des Amériques) 217 (2014): https://journals.openedition.org/orda/1646 and https://doi.org/10.4000/orda.1646 Janelle Harris, ‘The Rank and File Women of the Black Panther Party and Their Powerful Influence’, Smithsonian Magazine (4 March 2019): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/rank-and-file-women-black-panther-party-their-powerful-influence-180971591/ Angela Y. Davis, ‘Afro Images: Politics, Fashion, and Nostalgia’, Critical Inquiry, Vol. 21, No. 1 (Autumn, 1994): https://www.jstor.org/stable/1343885 Black is Beautiful 1962, The Grandassa Models: https://www.instagram.com/thegrandassamodels/ Curtis Austin, Black Panthers White Lies, TEDxOhioStateUniversity (6 April 2016): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPN8LHVeFYA Willi Smith: Street Couture, Cooper Hewitt, New York (2020): https://www.cooperhewitt.org/willi-smith-street-couture/

The New Dress May 24, 2020

Show notes

We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below. https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/ https://bonhomme.fr/# The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/ The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open secret, and the Language of Fashion’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779155032 Georg Simmel, ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 62, No. 6 (May 1957): https://www.jstor.org/stable/2773129 Lisa Cohen, All We Know: Three Lives (2012): https://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/englbooks/58/ R.S. Koppen, Virginia Woolf: Fashion & Literary Modernity, Edinburgh University Press (2009): https://edinburghuniversitypress.com/book-virginia-woolf-fashion-and-literary-modernity.html Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus (1831): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/1051/1051-h/1051-h.htm

The Red Shoes May 17, 2020

Show notes

We talk about the amazing colours, the light, clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film The Red Shoes. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

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