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Passing & Performance May 13, 2018

Show notes

We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance. Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101 Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/

Fancy Dress & Fashion Photos May 05, 2018

Show notes

We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close. Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/ Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/ V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0

Family History & Jewellery Apr 29, 2018

Show notes

We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales. Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/ 'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber

Fashion & Nature Apr 22, 2018

Show notes

We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature. V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/ Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse

Jil Sander & Azzedine Alaïa Apr 15, 2018

Show notes

We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision. Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html# Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier

Rosamond Bernier & Pockets Apr 07, 2018

Show notes

We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets. Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/ Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/05/20/a-mans-pockets/ Danica Ollerova for Pause on men wearing handbags (2017): http://pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/will-men-start-rocking-womens-bags-this-season/ Jake Woolf for GQ on whether man purses are a thing (2016): https://www.gq.com/story/mens-shoulder-bag-man-purse-bag Some 19th century skirts with pockets at the Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82094.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81437.html https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81519.html

Barber Shops & Flower Makers Apr 01, 2018

Show notes

We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making. Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html Flower Makers Museum: https://www.visit1066country.com/things-to-do/attractions/flower-makers-museum-p411891 The Lost Art of Flower Making (Museum of London blog post 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/lost-art-flower-making Thomas Bloor, Last of the Flower Makers (1997): https://archive.org/details/lotfm

Darns & Superheroes Mar 25, 2018

Show notes

We discuss how Beatrice learnt to darn, and consider Jessica Jones and what superheroes should wear. Ray-Stitch: https://raystitch.co.uk/ Celia Pym: http://celiapym.com/ Annemor Sundbø: https://annemor.com/english/ Vladimir Arkhipov's Home-Made (2006): http://fuel-design.com/publishing/home-made/ Thérèse de Dillmont, Encyclopedia of Needlework (1886): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/chapter_2.html#linen_darning Jessica Jones (2015-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357547/ Luke Cage (2016-): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt3322314/ Wonder Woman (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0451279/

Mermaids & Jazz Mar 18, 2018

Show notes

We discuss why we think Edwardian women look like mermaids and the influence of jazz on interwar British art and design. Lucile gown (1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81608.html Camille Clifford: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw178842/Camille-Clifford-Camilla-Antoinette-Clifford Paule Morly: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paule_Morly#/media/File:MORLY,_Paule_%C3%89toile._764-69._Photo_Stebbing.jpg Annette Kellerman: https://maas.museum/event/million-dollar-mermaid-annette-kellerman/ Edmond (Edmund)Dulac: http://expositions.bnf.fr/contes/grand/091_2.htm Rhythm & Reaction at Two Temple Place: https://twotempleplace.org/exhibitions/rhythm-and-reaction/ Autograph ABP: http://autograph-abp.co.uk/ Mark Matera, Black London (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520284302

Grace Jones & Imperfect Garments Mar 11, 2018

Show notes

We discuss how amazing Grace Jones is and imperfect clothes in museums. Sophie Fiennes (director), Grace Jones: Bloodlight & Bami (2017): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt6903636/ Francis Ford Coppola (director), Bram Stoker's Dracula(1992): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/ Grace Jones with Paul Morley, 'I Never Write My Memoirs' (2016): http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Ill-Never-Write-My-Memoirs/Grace-Jones/9781476765082 Present Imperfect: Disorderly Apparel Reconfigured exhibition (2017): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/present-imperfect/

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