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    Arts

    American Fashion Podcast

    Exploring fashion as an art and a business. American Fashion Podcast is the fashion show for fashion people, diving deep into the designing, making, and selling of garments and accessories through long-form interviews with people at all levels and in all corners of the business, with an emphasis on sustainability and innovation, since 2014. Hosted by Charles Beckwith and Cathy Schepis.

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    Copyright: © 2020 MouthMedia Network

    • Apple Podcasts
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    Latest Episodes:
    093 – Fashion Unfiltered Wants Conversations Mar 31, 2016
    Show notes

    Katharine Zarrella’s Fashion Unfiltered

    Katharine Zarrella, former news editor at Style.com, senior editor at V Magazine and VMAN, and prolific contributing fashion writer all over, has branched out on her own with the new fashion site, fashionunfiltered.com, which seems to have a cleaner mission than any we’ve seen in the recent past.

    We’re joined in the studio for this episode by WWD‘s Media Editor Alexandra Steigrad.

    highlights:

    KATHARINE: “I would like to shift the consumer focus away from the Kardashians and whoever is wearing whatever on the red carpet, and make them think about the clothes that they’re putting on their body, whether it’s from a conceptual and artistic perspective, whether it’s from a green perspective (you know, what is this doing to the environment, how is this affecting other people, how are the factories that are making these things affecting the factory workers), and I just want people to be excited about fashion. I want them to love fashion as much as I do, and see all the different facets and sides of the industry.” (5:28)

    KATHARINE: “What’s online needs to be a little more digestible, whereas print is an opportunity to really dive in to these incredible stories that are visual, or journalism, and kind of lose yourself in it as you would with a book, and I think that’s what’s happening with print. It’s a tangible thing that’s precious and kind of luxurious in a wold that feels very impermanent and fleeting. It’s something to get lost in and hold on to.” (35:57)

    KATHARINE: “If you’re not breaking a story, there’s no rush to get it up. And, I think, so many editors think that, “oh, my God, Womenswear just broke that this is happening at Lanvin. We need to get somethign up about it ASAP!” No you don’t. If you don’t have anythign to say about it that’s different than the Womenswear story, you don’t need to get it up ASAP. Send out a tweet and maybe link to the Womenswear story (which is obviously not great for clicks for you site) or just send out something that’s informational. But if you’re not breaking the story, you don’t need to be first. Wait until you have something to add.” (43:06)

    ALEXANDRA: “When you hear certain CEOs of big magazine companies talk about future plans, they’re talking about their advertising partners as if, ‘we’re creating content for them.’ There’s a shift in thinking there, and it’s problematic. You guess you can do a great video, but it has to be sponsored by ‘brand X,’ and I think throwing money at a journalist and letting them go crazy is not really what’s happening right now.” (59:15)

    references:

    • RewardStyle
    • SHOWstudio

    092 – Model Management Industry Super Episode Mar 21, 2016
    Show notes

    This episode is going to be HUGE.

    Trump Model Management is being sued for allegedly fraudulent paperwork on a model’s H1B visa application. We thought this would be a good opportunity to go deep on the subject of the global model management industry.

    The Model Management Industry

    Writer and former fashion model Madeline Hill talks about her experiences globetrotting for four agencies, then former modeling agency in-house counsels Ali Grace Marquart and Doreen Small, of the law firm Marquart & Small, LLP, are in the studio to talk about the standards and practices of this small but uncommonly influential business. Guest co-host lawyer Rob Sanchez of the Fashion Is Your Business podcast.

    some topics covered in this episode:

    Why is the same visa that’s used for foreign tech workers being used for fashion models? Why are they called model management companies and not agencies anymore? What rights do models have when they get into uncomfortable situations? How can designers help make sure the kids they hire to model aren’t getting exploited? What are parents’ responsibilities in regards to contracts, nutrition, and other accountability? What changed between the propriety of Eileen Ford and the John Casablancas era that took models into a hyper-sexual pop culture realm, and has the tide turned back now? What makes this business so aspirational and voyeuristic? What is the right of publicity in social media?

    An organization called The Model Alliance (“giving a voice to the faces of the fashion industry”) is working to change laws and support models with education and emergency services.

    references:

    • Disaster For Republicans As Donald Trump Is Being Sued For Violating Immigration Law
    • Best Response Ever to Thin Model Wearing Plus Size Clothes
    • 30 Ethical Fashion Brands You Need To Know
    • Ennio and Carlo Capasa Leave Costume National (BoF)
    • Why You Shouldn’t Launch a Label Straight Out of School (BoF)
    • Girl Model (documentary / Netflix)
    • PreeLine
    • Fashion Law Institute

    Episode 91: No, Seriously, Robots Don’t Make Your Clothes Mar 17, 2016
    Show notes

    Just To Clarify, Robots Don’t Make Your Clothes

    Young designers Julie Mollo and Louis Mairone (Dominic Louis) have two very different aesthetics and approaches to business for their companies. Julie’s first client was pop star Katy Perry, and she successfully spins influencer marketing publicity into wholesale and e-commerce sales as a sole operator, while Lou plays a more slow and steady game. This episode gets deep into the mindset of two emerging designers fairly representative of the spectrum: Julie with her off the wall hearts and polka dots pop star costumes sold off the seasonal calendar, Lou with a more traditional but still colorful energetic approach, and both of whom would like consumers to know that soylent fashion is people.

    References:

    • The Results are in: Examining the Future of New York Fashion Week
    • Teachable
    • soyouwannabeafashiondesigner.com

    Episode 90: Naeem Khan, In The Atelier With An American Treasure Mar 10, 2016
    Show notes

    World-renowned fashion designer Naeem Khan invites the American Fashion Podcast team into his showroom for a poignant discussion of work, life, and the future of the fashion industry.

    Naeem Khan highlights:

    • “We have amazing craftsmen in this country. When Italy or Japan, where you have such high paid labor, can produce, why can’t America?” – Naeem Khan (10:05)
    • “Unless and until you don’t have something different and something new to offer, if every designer has the same kind of looking clothes, it becomes a nightmare. I was studying the business which is the lower end business of what I do… I walked into stores like Neiman’s, Saks, and… there’s so much product. It made me afraid– how do you find your place in there, number one… number two, how do you make it so it’s viable that the store can sell it and not come back to you and say, ‘we need X million in markdown,’ because the whole thing is done on agreements with the stores, and that is a most dangerous game to play, because if you don’t meet those numbers, the next thing you know, the successful side of your business is going to be coming down with this new business that you’ve started. “- Naeem Khan (36:38)
    • “You know, you go up, and you have to come down in order to go back up again, because you need to find that other. What is the next thing? But it always comes. In all of my years of designing, I know that’s it’s a cycle, so don’t get depressed. Hold yourself. You’re going to go through it. It will be all fine.”- Naeem Khan (41:07)
    • “It was important to m father and my grandfather that we keep the tradition of the family alive, but my kids grew up in America. So, at first I was very worried that they grew up so modern, they went to Dalton, they went to amazing colleges… that they would not be interested. They would become victim to our society. So, I made it a point that I introduced it to them in the most fun way.”- Naeem Khan (44:31)

    references:

    • Shinola
    • Fixing Fashion: Rethinking the Way We Make, Market and Buy Our Clothes (book)

    089 – Zero Waste Fashion For The Gold Mar 08, 2016
    Show notes

    Lisa Koenigsberg, Timo Rissanen, Daniel Silverstein, and Tabitha St. Bernard are in the studio. Lisa Koenigsberg is the president of Initiatives In Art and Culture, which produces several conferences around the fashion and luxury goods industries, and has one coming up on gold. Timo, Daniel, and Tabitha are zero waste fashion designers, and educators in that field.

    zero waste highlights:

    • “If I may be so bold as to reduce this to a very simple concept: if you want to be a zero-waste designer, stop throwing things away. You might not have the solution when you start the journey, but if you stop and intercept the issue, which is waste, you an always accumulate a critical mass of your leftovers until the point where they reveal a solution to you.” – Daniel Silverstein (17:12)
    • “There’s very few items in our lives in America that we pay the real price for.” – Timo Rissanen (39:49)
    • “I think the system is desperate and broken, that we require everyone to run out and fight each other to learn the most, elbow and shove and push to get to the top, and when you get there there is nothing to be had.” – Daniel Silverstein (52:24)
    • “But then, I’m so curious, how is H&M making any money? Because if people didn’t get paid to make it, and you can’t make a living working in the store, who’s opening stores?” – Daniel Silverstein (54:29)
    • “I would say that I make clothes that are visually dynamic, and that are comfortable, and that are incredibly versatile. I take great pride in the fact that the women who buy my clothing, they wear it constantly. I just got an email from one of my customers and she told me she had a baby about a year ago, and she bought my dress a couple years ago, and she was able to sort of adjust it to fit over her belly. So, that makes me really happy. That’s how I view my clothing. I want my clothing to have a long life. I want it to live a long time in people’s wardrobes. I want them to have a relationship with it. I want them to grow old with it.” – Tabitha St. Bernard (56:36)

    references:

    • Dosa
    • The True Cost (documentary)
    • Driving Fashion Forward with Amber Valletta (video)
    • Everlane
    • Italy’s Fashion Chamber Rejects Immediacy (BoF)
    • Diamonds Unleashed by Kara Ross
    • Yeohlee

    088 – Skill Is A Luxury? Mar 01, 2016
    Show notes

    Lee Anderson of the Starkweather outerwear R&D group is in the studio talking about her conferences and focus groups, which she has been using to explore the fashion industry’s chronic issues. The hosts comment on a long list of recent news stories about the industry (see references list below). Charles Beckwith hits the Tranoï New York trade show and talks to designers Charles Harbison (Harbison), Yasmine Rana (Y by Yasmine), Katie Gallagher, and Philip Chu (Ground Zero), along with Tranoï’s CEO David Hadida and Head of Sales Marco Pili.

    references:

    • Buy Me Once: the online shop for stuff that lasts, from T-shirts to tweezers
    • 20 free fashion books to download from The Metropolitan Museum of Art
    • H&M, M&S Not Fulfilling “Living Wage” Promises, Says New Report
    • 9 Female Farmers Changing The Fashion Industry
    • When Did Fashion Stop Being About the Clothes?
    • The Power of Buying Less by Buying Better
    • Zuckerberg Throws Shade At Kanye’s Money Request In The Most Subtle Way
    • How Smartphones Are Killing Off the Fashion Show
    • It took a lot of skill for Alexander Wang to make clothes that look so trashy
    • The Risks of Changing Creative Directors
    • It Didn’t Used to Be Like This: Iconic Models Remember Fashion Week
    • PR powerhouse Kelly Cutrone is sick and tired of leeches selling invites to her clients’ private Fashion Week shows
    • Bizarre Gucci Advertisement Dressed As Content Gets Everything Wrong (WTF)
    • Why Brands Should Stop Trying to Control the Message
    • New York Fashion Week recap: ethical fashion on the rise
    • Fashion Calendar Shake-Up ‘Negates the Dream’ of Luxury, Says Pinault
    • One of the Weirdest Fashion Weeks
    • How Newspaper Supplements Took On Fashion Magazines
    • Wal-Mart Still Outshined by Amazon Despite Spending Billions
    • How an Expensive Suit Can Make You Better at Your Job
    • MSGM to Ban Social Media at Show

    Episode 87: New York Fashion Week! Fashion Week! Fashion Week! Feb 19, 2016
    Show notes

    New York Fashion Week is in full swing.

    Charles and Lisa are in the field and Seth checks in via Skype.

    This episode includes interviews with Bil Donovan, Ernest Schmatolla, Kenny Bonavitacola, Stephen Knoll, Rosina Rucci (RR331), Naeem Khan, Tadashi Shoji, Raquel Allegra, Raul Peñaranda, and Charles Youssef. Charles Beckwith reviews Zoolander 2 and goes to a Chinese fashion show on the Hudson.

    references:

    • A Détacher
    • Amanda Phelan
    • Cushnie et Ochs
    • Zimmerman
    • Reem Acra
    • Monique Lhuillier
    • threeASFOUR
    • Bibhu Mohapatra
    • Delpozo
    • Ohne Titel
    • Rodarte
    • Narciso Rodriguez
    • Jeremy Scott

    086 – Down With TPP, A Bad Trade Deal Smackdown Feb 11, 2016
    Show notes

    Seriously, the TPP is the worst kind of international trade deal you could imagine for our domestic manufacturers!

    Trade policy expert and rock musician, Steven Capozzola, from the US Business and Industry Council talks in detail about the crazy backroom deals #$@& going on around this Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) trade deal. Hint: it’s really really bad news for Made In USA

    Julie Zerbo, editor of The Fashion Law, finally joins in the studio after being mentioned in prior episodes approximately 9.72 billion times.

    Footwear designers Jordan Adoni and Omar Bailey from New York Garment District anchor factory and streetwear line Modern Vice talk about their triumphs with making it here, helping emerging designers figure out how to make great shoes, and the struggle to get major footwear brands to bring 3% of production back to the United States.

    Be sure to join the American Fashion Podcast LinkedIn group to network and talk with guests and hosts about the show.

    references:

    • Chanel May Have Just Won a Battle for the Chanel Instagram Account (The Fashion Law)
    • “I’m an advertising executive and I’ll be honest: my job is to pollute the universe.” (speech transcript)
    • What’s Wong With The Fashion Industry – Part 1 (Vestoj)
    • modaCYCLE.de relaunched
    • Find Your Representative (house.gov)
    • Burberry Aligns Runway and Retail Calendar in Game-Changing Shift
    • Vetements Has a Unilateral Plan to Shake Up the Shows
    • Tom Ford Cancels His NYFW Presentation

    085 – Fairy Tale Fashion and Men’s Fashion Week Feb 05, 2016
    Show notes

    Charles talks to Colleen Hill, associate curator of The Museum At FIT, and the person behind their current exhibition, Fairy Tale Fashion. Then he is in the field for Men’s Fashion Week, and speaks with designers Derek Buse and Jo Sadler of Los Angeles brand CWST, Scot Shandalove and Jake Zeitlin of Matiere, and Timo Weiland of Timo Weiland.

    references:

    • Where Are the Mavericks? Why Men’s Fashion Week Needs Pepping Up (NY Times)
    • Burberry Aligns Runway and Retail Calendar in Game-Changing Shift (BoF)
    • Giles Deacon

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BBWo3h5N7wS/


    084 – Men’s Fashion Week Pre-Game Show Jan 28, 2016
    Show notes

    Menswear designers Loris Diran and Zachary Prell, along with publicist and Men’s Fashion Week pioneering organizer Erin Hawker of Agentry PR are in the studio.

    Seth asks the guests for advice on working with event sponsors, and balancing commerce with showmanship.

    Zachary Prell talks about re-envisioning American men’s sportswear.

    This episode gets into what does a runway show cost, what is the importance of face to face time with customers and retailers to build human relationships, and how do you sort the effective and authentic fashion bloggers and other social media influences from the ones you don’t want to deal with, along with myriad other topics.


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