American Alpine Club Podcast

EDUCATE: The Forgotten Stonemaster Oct 30, 2024

We are so excited to have longtime AAC member Rick Accomazzo on the podcast to chat about his new book “Tobin, the Stonemasters, and Me, 1970-1980.” This book is part memoir of Rick’s own early climbing career, part revealing biography of Tobin Sorenson, the forgotten Stonemaster who was an incredible all-arounder; and part a distillation of a decade of climbing culture. With these three threads, the book weaves together many untold climbing stories from an iconic, pivotal decade, from “before climbing lost its innocence,” as John Long says in his forward to the book. Listen to the episode to hear some key stories from the book and learn about the ten-year process of putting it together. We’d also like to congratulate Rick for his book being longlisted for the Banff Mountain Literature Award! Dive into the episode to get your dose of forgotten climbing history. You can grab your own copy at stonemasterbooks.com

CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Connie Shang Oct 18, 2024

On this episode of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Connie Shang on the podcast to talk about her recent send of Spyfiction, a 5.14c in Mt. Charleston, Nevada. We discuss her projecting process, how she’s leveled up over the years, how she got so strong without training, what counts as a crusher in today’s climbing world and especially for women’s climbing, and plateaus on the moonboard. She also talks about her unique perspective on climbing-work balance, that perhaps more of us should consider utilizing! Love to hear about hard climbing, but want to hear from someone who’s a little more relatable than the pros? The Undercover Crushers series is here for your inspiration! Dive in!

CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Nathan Hadley Sep 30, 2024

On this edition of the Undercover Crusher series, we have Rab athlete Nathan Hadley on the pod. We talk about what counts as “undercover,” and the reality of straddling the world of full-time work while being “pro.” We discuss the pressure to be obsessed with Yosemite, and maybe figuring out that performing in Yosemite is not the only place to make a name for yourself…as well as bolting and development ethics in Washington, sending the Canadian Trilogy, and the downsides (and upsides!) of being a route setter. Jump into this episode to hear all this and more from crusher Nathan Hadley!

CONNECT: Summiting Denali, Living the Dream Sep 25, 2024

In this episode, we had Live Your Dream grant recipient John Thomson on the pod to tell us all about his trip to Denali! Our Live Your Dream grant is our most popular grant, and it’s powered by The North Face. John’s LYD story is about feeling a sense of urgency–how now is the time to explore and pursue big adventures, a strong sense of carpe diem really. After nearly a decade away from Denali, John returned, only to get caught up in helping with a rescue, and not getting to pursue his goal route because of weather conditions. We sat down with John to hear about his grant experience, the rescue he helped with, his journey falling away from climbing and coming back to it, how guiding shaped his climbing, and why it meant so much to be standing on the top of Denali once again.

PROTECT: Amity Warme and a YOSAR Climbing Ranger Weigh In on The Yosemite Credo Aug 05, 2024

Its another Yosemite episode! And with some of the most in-the-know climbers, pro Amity Warme and Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey, who weigh in on what’s been happening in Yosemite, both climbing wise, and in terms of community discussions about the future of climbing ethics and style there. In this episode, we get to know crusher Amity Warme, and her perspectives on going ground-up on El Cap, how she’s recently been toeing the line between pushing her limits versus being in over her head, and how she views her role in the climbing community. We also chat about her ascent of Book of Hate (a 13d heinous stem corner ) and Pineapple Express (which is the fully free version of El Nino) last fall. We also have Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey back on the pod, and chat about what’s been going on in Yosemite recently regarding rising temperatures, recent accidents due to using technology, the origins of the new Yosemite Climber’s Credo, and how a local climbing community came together to agree on shared values and guidelines. Amity also weighs in on the Yosemite Credo, and why she believes in the Credo and wants to help lead the way on the best practices for climbing in this iconic location. Dive in to hear about some crucial conversations happening in one of the hubs of the climbing community.

Educate: Search and Rescue Helicopter Evacuation in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison Jul 18, 2024

This year, the featured winner of the Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award is the Black Canyon Search and Rescue team, who performed an incredibly technical rescue in 2023 in the Black Canyon, after a climber took a bad fall that left them unconscious, needing medical attention almost 2,000 ft down into the canyon. In this episode, we sit down to chat with Sean Hart, one of the SAR team members at the scene that day, who walks us through the unique challenges of climbing and rescuing in The Black, the harrowing rescue by Blackhawk helicopter, how critical communication is in rescues, and how to always have a plan B. Learn more about the Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award, watch the film about this incredible rescue, and get the chance to give back to your local search and rescue team AND win some incredible gear by going to https://rockytalkie.com/pages/sar-award

PROTECT: First Ascents, Ground Falls, and the AAC Rescue Benefit in Action Jun 26, 2024

In this episode, we sit down with Jarod, a long-time AAC member, to discuss a crazy accident he had at his home crag in Missouri, and how he utilized the AAC’s rescue benefit to cover the cost of his medical expenses. If you’ve been wondering if the AAC’s rescue benefit is for you, Jarod’s story helps explain how it works. We dive into the quirky concept of “girdle traverses” or mulitpitches that go sideways, and analyze his accident— the decisions he made, how traversing complicates gear placements, and the close calls he had. Funnily enough, Jarod also did a FA on that same wall—putting up Missouri’s potentially longest rock climb with Jeremy Collins, and this FA made it into the American Alpine Journal! We discuss the vision behind this 8-pitch traverse, what went into making it happen, the silliness of climbing, the unique belay tactics for traversing, and more! ** Last change to get your 80's-vibes limited edition t-shirt when you join, renew, or donate in the month of June 2024. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/vibe24.

EDUCATE: The Climbing World's Best Books about Accidents and the Cutting Edge Jun 17, 2024

This year’s editions of Accidents in North American Climbing and American Alpine Journal are off to the printer! We had Dougald MacDonald and Pete Takeda on the podcast, the editors of these world-renowned books, to discuss all the details of what goes into making these books: including how stories get selected, the challenges of investigating how accidents happen, how these books fit into the larger climbing media landscape, and the long history of these books. Our editors also chat about what it’s like to edit over 100 stories about climbers hurting themselves and then still go climbing. We cover how these books have been translated and utilized across the globe, as well as trends in accidents this year. If you’re looking for more details about how the AAC produces such robust reporting on cutting edge climbing and accident analysis each year, you’ll have to hear from the editors themselves! *** If you're listening to this in June 2024, you can still grab one of our limited edition t-shirts! Just join the AAC, renew your membership, or donate $30+ in the month of June, using promo code VIBE24, to snag this vibing tee! Check it out: https://americanalpineclub.org/vibe24

EDUCATE: The Untold Stories of Sherpas, Baltis, and other Local Climbers in the Greater Ranges May 22, 2024

In this episode, we cover the untold and complex experience of local climbers in the Greater Ranges—how Sherpa, Baltis, and other local climbers have navigated the complex landscape of living and working on Everest and in the Karakoram. We sat down with three incredible writers—Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar, who are the authors of the newly released book "Headstrap–Legends and Lore from the Climbing Sherpas of Darjeeling"; and also the well-known mountain writer Bernadette McDonald, who has recently released "Alpine Rising: Sherpas, Baltis, and the Triumph of Local Climbers in the Greater Ranges." Though it's easy to lump these mountains together from a foreign climber’s perspective, these books cover distinct geographical locations that are deeply impacted by the politics of this region of the world. In conversation, these writers illuminated the unique challenges for Nepali, Tibetan, Pakistani, and Sherpa climbers from Darjeeling, as well as the shared challenges that all of these climbers have faced in making a name for themselves, fighting for safe working conditions, navigating the way colonization has impacted the boundaries of mountaineering, and more. We discuss topics like how Tenzing Norgay’s identifying as Sherpa when he first climbed Everest catapulted the idea of “Sherpa” into the limelight, how the Partitioning of India and Pakistan affects the work prospects of Darjeeling Sherpa, navigating relationships with foreign climbers vs climbing for themselves, and much more. Whether you’re a mountaineer yourself, or just have a passing respect for Everest, join us in this episode to hear about the deeply human experiences of individual Sherpa and Pakistani climbers, and how they navigate death, risk, financial independence and glory in the big mountains of our world. Learn more about these two books and grab a copy yourself at mountaineers.org/books! ** We apologize but there are two or three moments in this episode where the audio was corrupted—we couldn't fix it, but we think the episode is great anyway! Sorry for the inconvenience!

CONNECT: Inside the Life of a Climbing Photographer May 01, 2024

Note: This episode is explicit. In this episode, we had adventure photographer Jeremiah Watt on the pod to talk about all things climbing photography. Miah is a big fan of the AAC, and regularly donates his incredible photos to us! In this episode, Miah and the AAC’s award-winning Graphic Designer Foster Denney dive into topics like the life of a freelancer, what it takes to get the right shot on the wall, trends in climbing photography, the physical toll like jugging fixed lines to get the shot, mistakes new photogs make, and more. Ever wondered what’s going on behind the lens? Listen to this episode to get the behind the scenes life of an adventure photographer!

CONNECT: Mo Beck on the Impact of Adaptive Climbing Fest, and Retiring from Competitions Apr 02, 2024

*Adaptive Climbing Festival is a finalist for the 2024 Changemaker Award!* Adaptive Climbing Festival (ACF) is crafting a shift in adaptive climbing. Not only is it easier than ever for a person with a disability to TRY paraclimbing, but through ACF, there are also now more opportunities to build skills and depth in the paraclimbing community, deepening the knowledge and expertise that adaptive leaders can use to empower future generations of adaptive climbers. We sat down with Mo Beck, one of the organizers of ACF and a pro athlete, to talk about how Adaptive Climbing Fest started, its impact, and why ACF is such a meaningful finalist for the AAC’s Changemaker Award. We also chatted about Mo’s climbing philosophy, the emotions of retiring from competing, trolls on Mountain Project, and how she’s seen the sport change over 25 years of climbing. *** Hear from the other finalists and Climbing Award winners at the AAC's Annual Gala! Learn more and grab tickets: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

CLIMB: Katie Lamb Dives Deep on Her Send of "Box Therapy" and Losing Anonymity Apr 02, 2024

*Katie Lamb's send of Box Therapy is a finalist for the AAC's Climb of the Year Award!* In 2023, Katie Lamb sent Box Therapy. It was a definite level-up for her personal climbing, and with this ascent, she became the first woman in history to climb a boulder that many consider to be V16. Her landmark send made waves, and that’s why she is a finalist for the AAC’s Climb of the Year Award. We chatted with Katie about all that went into projecting Box Therapy, her climbing philosophy, how to use excuses to your advantage on bad days, what it was like to lose anonymity, her secret to work-climbing balance, the experience of everyone talking about you on the internet, and being authentic in the current climbing world. **** Attend the AAC's Gala to hear from more Climbing Award finalists and winners! Learn more at: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

CLIMB: Babsi Zangerl's Secret to Her Exceptional Yosemite Resume Mar 25, 2024

"I like to suck" Babsi says...and this mentality means she's constantly trying climbing styles and skills that she's bad at. And with that sense of curiosity, she acquires a breadth of mastery that is evident in her Yosemite accomplishments... In many ways, Babsi Zangerl has flown under the radar here in the United States. She doesn’t like to brag—she just wants to climb hard. But her dedication to climbing has resulted in an astonishing Yosemite resume. She has 6 free ascents of El Cap to her name, including the first female free ascents of Zodiac, El Nino, and Magic Mushroom. In this interview, we talk about some of these iconic climbs, what inspires her and her goal-setting process, how she taught herself to crack climb in Indian Creek so she could climb in Yosemite, the magic duo that is her partnership with Jacopo Larcher, and her perspective on the ground-up ethic of big wall climbing. She also admits to why she’s been avoiding the Monster Off-Width pitch and gives us a hint of her ambitions for future Yosemite trips. Dive into this episode to hear from one of the most accomplished modern Yosemite climbers—and honestly, she’s just getting started. *** Hear more incredible Yosemite stories by attending the AAC's Annual Benefit Gala this April! Learn more: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

EDUCATE: Hazel Findlay on Yosemite, Magic Line, and the Theory of Flow Mar 05, 2024

We sat down with the master of climbing mindset, Hazel Findlay. Hazel has made many significant free ascents of El Cap, and is one of the very few to climb the storied single pitch trad test piece, Magic Line. In this episode of the podcast, we talk with Hazel about her history with Yosemite, the projecting process for Magic Line, and of course, tips and tricks for building a strong mind. She shares some of her best insights about finding flow; a new concept that compliments flow, called clutch; first steps towards building a personal sending philosophy; and even a few practical exercises you can put into practice right now to start working on your headgame. And of course, how this all got applied during her own projecting process for Magic Line, because Pro’s struggle with headgame too!

GAME DAY: Hueco Rock Rodeo Feb 13, 2024

It’s about to be game on for the 28th annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, and so we had our own Game Day panel to talk shop about strategies for the competition, the major players to look out for, and how the condies are shaping up. We had Nina Williams and Jon Glassberg on the pod to chat podium predictions, climbing rivalries, who's injured, and who's coming in with momentum, and whether Daniel Woods is really going to win the Hueco Rock Rodeo, AGAIN. Dive in to get all the beta on the top competitors, funny stories from past competitions, performance tips, competitive vibes, trash talk, and more.

CLIMB: Kyra Condie on Winning Hueco, Fear of Falling, and Trying Harder Feb 07, 2024

In this episode, we sit down with Mountain Hardwear athlete and Olympian Kyra Condie. Kyra has so much psyche and energy, and we had a wide ranging conversation, covering her past, present, and future climbing exploits. We start off with her experience winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo in 2017, her advice for competitors this year, and how her spinal fusion pushes her to have a creative mind and find her own beta. She also gave some excellent insight into the way comp climbers think, the key training focuses every climber should have, and how MORE climbers should get on routes and problems that are way too hard for them. Kyra is really open about dealing with fear of falling and fear of the unknown, and we unpack that and more, diving into relatable topics for most climbers. Finally, we cover her Olympic hopes for Paris 2024. Whether it's strategies for competing in Hueco, training tips, or mantras for good mental game, Kyra’s wisdom is worth the listen!

Legacy Series: Tom Frost, Living and Photographing the Golden Age of Yosemite Feb 05, 2024

Tom Frost was one of the leading climbers of his generation, making important first ascents on El Cap, like the North America Wall and Salathé Wall. He was also a world-class alpinist and one of the main photographers who crafted a visual record of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing, capturing the emotional imagery that would define a generation of climbers. Frost was at the forefront of defining clean climbing, often known for his enterprising and bold free climbing to avoid unnecessary bolting. He also engineered key climbing tools that we often take for granted today. In this interview with Tom Frost, we cover how he fell in with Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, and others; stories from his historic climbs; and how much he loved bivvying on the big walls of El Cap. Dive in to hear all this and more from this legend of climbing!

CLIMB: Tom Evans and Two Decades of Reporting on El Cap Climbing Jan 22, 2024

Tom Evans is the creator of the El Cap Report. He started out taking photos of all the climbers he’d see on El Cap, and got tired of answering questions about who was doing what and how X ascent was going. So he innovated. He started posting a daily report, accompanied by his photos, of what was happening on El Cap during the main Yosemite climbing season—and he since has crafted a legacy of 22 years of documenting “the center of the universe”—El Cap climbing. With his recent retirement from the El Cap report, we decided we wanted to celebrate this legacy, and hear all his thoughts on the climbing history he’s documented, witnessing accidents and rescues, what’s next in El Cap climbing, the impact of social media in the Valley, and what motivated him in the first place to create the El Cap report. Dive in to get to know one of the legendary names from the El Cap bridge scene—a conversation just for you, unique in all the world! Check out the El Cap Report here: http://elcapreport.com

CONNECT: The FKT of the Rainier Infinity Loop, In Memory of A Friend Dec 18, 2023

Abby Westling and Kiira Antenucci were devastated to lose their friend Luke to a climbing accident in 2022. But as they learned to cope with this tragedy, they began to dream up something big. In July of 2023, Kiira and Abby set out to attempt The Infinity Loop, an epic endurance test piece that summits Rainier twice and circumnavigates the mountain via the Wonderland Trail. The two have extensive experience as guides on Rainier, and have submitted dozens of times, but this challenge would push them to their limits. They also wanted to do it in memory of their friend, and raise money for the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund, which had supported them in the early stages of their grief process. Dive into this episode to hear the full story of how they set the female FKT on the Infinity Loop, the emotional ups and downs of such a massive challenge, why the Climbing Grief Fund means so much to them, and the impact of their incredible work in fundraising for the CGF. Find out more about the Climbing Grief Fund and get resources: https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund

EDUCATE: Everything You Didn't Know About Royal Robbins Nov 30, 2023

Most climbers know the name Royal Robbins. But how much do you really know about this legendary figure in American climbing? Writer and editor David Smart has written a new award winning biography of Royal, called "Royal Robbins: The American Climber." The AAC sat down with David to discuss how Royal’s revolutionary years in Yosemite fits into the grander scheme of climbing history, the undervalued climbs from Royal’s life, his writerly intellectualism, bringing nuts to the US to replace pitons, his famed frenemy Warren Harding, and his mixed feelings around bolting throughout his career. Dive into the episode to learn more about one of climbing history’s biggest personalities! And find out how you can grab a copy of David Smart's book at mountaineers.org/books!

CONNECT: Behind the Scenes of Climbing Mentorship, with Kimber Cross and Kit DesLauriers Nov 27, 2023

Kimber Cross is an adaptive climber who uses a custom prosthetic ice tool to climb waterfall ice around the country as well as alpine ice routes in her home state of Washington. She is a part of The North Face’s Athlete Development Program, and her mentor is long-time AAC supporter Kit DesLauriers, the first person to ski the seven summits. The AAC sat down with Kimber and Kit to talk about Kimber’s emerging career in alpinism and ski mountaineering. We also cover mentorship, setting goals, and some of the ways the larger climbing community makes assumptions about adaptive climbers. Dive in to hear some fascinating tales from the mountains—including raising a wolf and doing a bit of spontaneous hangliding in the Tetons—and to learn more about how Kimber is pushing her climbing and changing the narrative.

PROTECT: A Yosemite Climbing Ranger Weighs in on Style, Sustainability, and Safety Oct 20, 2023

In this episode, we sit down with Head Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey to talk about the state of Yosemite climbing. We dig into what a climbing ranger’s job is like on a daily basis, and the knowledge Yosemite climbers should know that could prevent many accidents. We discuss the new splitter near Super Slide, as well as the need for, and initial success of the Big Wall Permit. We also cover an evolving conversation around style on El Cap and other classic big walls in the Park; camping and parking issues, and so much more. Yosemite climbing has been such an inspiration for the climbing world, but in its current iteration, that experience is at risk. The AAC is excited to be partnering with Yosemite National Park to preserve that climbing experience for climbing generations to come. Learn more about these challenges to Yosemite, and how we will be partnering with the climbing rangers, in this episode!

CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Andrew Leich Talks Developing in West Virginia Oct 02, 2023

Welcome to the first episode of our “Undercover Crushers” Series, where the AAC talks to some of the hidden gems of the climbing community—those climbers who are hitting big numbers under the radar, but also crushing in a different sense…contributing to their community in big ways, that often go unnoticed. In our first episode, we’re talking to a prolific developer and local West Virginia crusher—Andrew Leich—who's based out of an area of West Virginia that’s ALSO undercover…the bouldering and climbs of Cheat Canyon and Morgantown, WV. We talk to Andrew about the excellent rock around this area, and his projects—including a massive endurofest double digit sloper boulder and a clean crimping 14b at the historica Seneca Rocks. We dive into developing, the trouble with grading, wrestling rhododendrons, land use ethics when developing, writing a comprehensive guidebook for the exploding rock in the region, and more. Find Andrew's guidebook, Cheat Canyon Rock, here: https://cheatcanyonrock.com

CONNECT: Climbing Partnerships that Shape Us, with Erik Weihenmayer and Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht Aug 28, 2023

In this episode, we sit down with climbing partners Erik Weihenmayer and Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht to talk about their recent expedition to Patagonia. Erik and Felipe are each incredible athletes in their own right, but the real heart of this conversation is about partnership, and the unique ways we learn from and rely on our climbing partners. We dive into Erik’s incredible career as the first blind person to climb Everest, and Felipe’s roots in Chile that inspired this expedition and continue to influence him as he emerges as an athlete and pro photographer. We cover their unique experiences at the summit of Torre Norte, and how each of them hope to see the climbing community grow and expand. Their travels to Patagonia and their partnership are the subject of a new film sponsored by Rab—get the full story and behind the scenes details here!

CLIMB: The Training Episode, with Tom Randall Aug 11, 2023

On this episode of the podcast, we sat down with the infamous Tom Randall of Wide Boyz fame. Tom reflected on some of the most transformative moments in his climbing career, debunked some of the myths of climbing training, and got us hyped on the AAC’s new partnership and discount with Lattice Training. Whether it's how to train as a trad climber, or the difference that trainers see between UK athletes and US athletes, we covered a broad range of topics. If you’re curious whether you should start training for climbing, even if your goals in climbing have nothing to do with pushing grades, then dive in!

Inside Search & Rescue: Fall Into an Active Volcanic Fumarole on Mt. Hood Jul 26, 2023

A skier on Mt. Hood had slid out and fallen into an open volcanic pit—the Devil’s Kitchen Fumerole. With a broken femur and the toxic gasses of the volcano swirling in the air—the situation was dire. Many of the folks on Portland Mountain Rescue and the Hood River Crag Rats weren’t sure that the patient would survive when they first got the call. But with their unique fumerole self-lowering rope system, PMR and the Crag Rats were able get the patient out of that alien world of ice and snow and toxic gasses. To dig into the details of the mission, we sat down with Cully Wiseman, a surgeon and the head medical lead on this mission, and Scott Norton, a rescue leader on the mission. Learn about their decision making process during rescues, the types of accidents they most often see, and what they wish climbers knew about SAR. *** Portland Mountain Rescue is a winner of this year's Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award. Hear the other finalists' stories and vote for the most inspiring story among them at Americanalpineclub.org/sar-awards-2023

Inside Search & Rescue: Stranded on a Cliff with a Broken Leg Jul 26, 2023

When rockfall takes its toll, things get serious. Late in the day on an alpine climb in the Sierra, a microwave sized block fell and broke the leg of a climber as she stood at a belay 1,500 ft up Mt Emerson. As Inyo County Search and Rescue launched into the mission, they quickly realized that helicopter evacuation would not be possible given the weather. With freezing temperatures setting in and darkness falling, the ground team sprung into action—ultimately climbing hundreds of feet to the patient, and rigging hundreds of feet of a static lowering system to ultimately get her to a hospital 24 hours later, dodging inclement weather and rockfall hazards along the way. In this episode, we sat down with Todd Vogel, one of the team leads for the mission, to learn about the nitty gritty details of the rescue, what happens when the weather is too bad for helicopters, and how SAR teams deal with the emotional roller-coaster of their work. *** Inyo County Search and Rescue is a winner of this year's Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award. Hear the other finalists' stories and vote for the most inspiring story among them at Americanalpineclub.org/sar-awards-2023

Inside Search & Rescue: Trapped Under a Boulder in the Enchantments Jul 26, 2023

When the Chelan County Mountain Rescue team first heard that there was a boulder pinning a hiker in the Enchantments, they just assumed the hiker was trailside and easily accessible. But as the helicopter dropped them off at the scene of the accident, they quickly realized that the fridge sized boulder was pinning the hiker between a tree and another rock—right above a perilous cliff edge. The patient had both of his legs pinned and one arm–and his stats were falling fast. The team had to work quickly to secure everyone on the cliff side, and utilize a novel technique to lift the boulder and free the hiker fast, and without causing more crush injuries. We sat down with Vern Nelson, President of Chelan County Mountain Rescue and one of the team leads on the mission, to talk about this new rescue technique, what he wishes climbers knew to prevent accidents in the mountains, and the culture of blame and shame around climbing and hiking accidents. *** Chelan County Mountain Rescue is a winner of this year's Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award. Hear the other finalists' stories and vote for the most inspiring story among them at Americanalpineclub.org/sar-awards-2023

CLIMB: Behind the Scenes of the USA Climbing Training Center Jul 13, 2023

Is comp climbing the new cutting edge of our sport? We’re featuring a conversation between guest host and AAC board member Cody Kaemmerlen, and USA Climbing’s Head Coach, Josh Larson. Cody and Josh hang out at the USA Training Center to record this conversation, and talk team culture, behind the scenes of comp training, and even a bit about how the Olympics is shaping competitive climbing. This isn’t your typical training podcast. We’re taking a deep dive into the inner workings of an ever evolving part of our sport. Listen in to get some insights on the philosophy powering the USA Climbing Team, from the coach who trains some of the best climbers in America.

EDUCATE: New Trends in Climbing Accidents—Summer 2023 Edition Jun 28, 2023

Pete Takeda is back on the podcast! As the editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, he's ready to talk about new trends in climbing accidents that he's seen over the course of editing the 2023 edition of the book. With the most recent edition of ANAC freshly sent off to the printer, Pete has some insightful takeaways on the kinds of accidents we should all be paying attention to in our current climbing landscape. Things get a little emotional, existential, and even a little dark, but ultimately we talk about how crowding at our crags, Youtube climbing education, and even grades are contributing to new types of climbing accidents. After all, as Pete says: “gravity speaks with an eloquence rarely found on Youtube.” But Pete’s also seen trends in the way that the climbing community comes together in the face of horrible tragedy. It’s the combination of both these high consequence accidents, and the community, that makes climbing so real. Get a sneak peek of the newest edition of Accidents in North American Climbing by listening in! We also talk briefly to the expert on the AAC's rescue and medical expense coverage....so if you're worried about the accident trends in this episode, you know what to do to make sure you're covered and prepared in the case of an accident.

CONNECT: An Ode to Speed, with Alex Honnold and Buzz Burrell Jun 01, 2023

Have you ever wondered: what’s at the root of Alex Honnold’s need for speed? In this episode of the podcast, we sat down with the ever-fascinating Alex Honnold, and put him in conversation with one of ulta running’s forefathers and one of the inventors of the FKT concept, or “fastest known time,” the one and only Buzz Burrell. In this episode, we took inspiration from Alex, who blends sports like running and rock climbing to create massive link-ups like the HURT and the CUDL, to investigate the philosophies behind climbing speed records, ultras, and mountain traverses and link-ups. Why are we so obsessed with speed in the mountains? How do speed records and first ascents play off each other? And what can putting ultra runners and speed record holders together in conversation reveal about these sports we love? The iconic Alex Honnold and Buzz Burrell weigh in on all this and more.

PROTECT: The New Bolt Wars? Protecting America's Rock Climbing in Wilderness May 05, 2023

Climbing in America’s Wilderness areas—places like Joshua Tree, Yosemite, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and so many other iconic climbing areas—is under threat. The bolting wars of old have been revived, but with a new inflection. It’s no longer sport climbers and trad climbers duking it out. Federal land managers feel cornered by increased usage on our public lands...and are arguing its necessary to ban the use of fixed anchors. But this is in conflict with climbers, who know that fixed anchors have always been allowed in Wilderness and prohibiting them will not resolve this issue, but only present new ones. While normally climbers and land managers are partners, this disagreement over fixed anchors in Wilderness is a strong threat to our ability to work together. So what exactly is this bolting war about, and what’s at stake here? In this episode, the AAC sat down with Erik Murdock, the Vice President of Policy & Government Affairs at Access Fund, to talk about the nitty gritty details of this critical conversation about bolting and fixed anchors in Wilderness. We also cover the Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (or PARC Act), which will help climbers preserve climbing in Wilderness as it has been historically protected, and continue to partner with land managers to conserve the public lands we all love. Get your legislators to support the PARC Act and protect Wilderness climbing here: https://www.accessfund.org/action-alerts/protect-wilderness-climbing-national

CONNECT: United in Yosemite, with Genevive Walker and Thomas Bukowski Apr 20, 2023

The AAC is super excited to be co-hosting a brand new climbing festival this summer that centers BIPOC, LGBTQ+ and adaptive climbers in Yosemite Valley, called United in Yosemite. In this episode, we sat down with Genevive Walker and Thomas Bukowski, who are each deeply embedded in the climbing world, helping create more inclusive climbing experiences, and are guides who will be running clinics at United in Yosemite. Our conversation covers what climbing means to them, the obstacles they face as guides, why United in Yosemite matters, and the magic these kinds of events can generate. Listen in to get a sneak peek of what to expect from the event and get a glimpse behind the scenes of the guiding world. Find out more about United in Yosemite: https://yosemite.org/projects/united-in-yosemite-2023/

CONNECT: After the Slide, Navigating Grief and Loss Post-Avalanche Apr 04, 2023

In April of 2020, Anna lost her friend in an avalanche while the two were splitboarding Mt. Taylor. In the wake of the accident, Anna utilized the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund to find accessible mental health care and connect with others who were grappling with similar trauma from accidents in the mountains. In this episode, we sat down with Anna to have a profoundly raw and elegant conversation about her experience of the accident, how the trauma of the avalanche changed her relationship to backcountry snowboarding and skiing culture, reflections on the toxic narratives of shame and blame that often still persist around outdoor tragedies, and her personal journey as she learns (and continues learning) to navigate her post-avalanche world. Learn more about the Climbing Grief Fund, and support this work: https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund

Legacy Series: Reflections from a Life in the Mountains, with Jim Whittaker Mar 13, 2023

In 1963, Jim Whittaker stood on top of the highest mountain in the world, becoming the first American to summit Everest. Since then, he has brought the company REI to international prominence, and seen climbing change dramatically—including having his son Leif Whittaker call him from the top of Everest, a possibility Whittaker had never dreamed of. In this episode, Whittaker reminisces about wearing wet leather boots for 3 weeks on his expedition to Everest (and still keeping his toes), reflects on how ice axes could splinter in your hands back in the day, and how really, the best climbing tools are your own hands, feet, and brain. Dive into this episode to hear this climbing legend's insights into the way climbing history informs our present.

CONNECT: Life on the Edge of Climbing and Motherhood, with Majka Burhardt Mar 03, 2023

Majka Burhardt is a pro climber, a certified climbing guide, a conservation entrepreneur running an international organization, and a writer. She is also a mother to twins, and she’s still figuring it all out. She’s leaning into messy coherence, and learning how to be the best mom, climber, spouse, professional, and guide along the way. Her new book, "MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood" is a compilation of in-the-moment journals and voice memos Majka recorded while she was pregnant and during the first five years of her children’s lives—recording the raw messiness of wanting to do it all, and even then asking for more…of live and of herself. Along the way, she takes an honest look at risk and motherhood, gender roles, navigating jealousy, her work, her marriage, climbing hard with the changes her body experienced, and giving her children her best and highest self. Majka’s book "More" identifies the ways that life seeps into our climbing and is intricately tied into it. We talk about all this and more in this episode. The book is on the March Must-Read List from Next Big Idea, and you definitely want to get your hands on a copy.

CLIMB: Connor Herson Talks "Empath"—One of the Hardest Trad Routes Ever Feb 23, 2023

Connor Herson is a young crusher, having freed the Nose at the age of 15, climbed 50 5.14s by his 18th birthday, and recently sending one of the hardest gear routes in the world, "Empath", 5.14d in Tahoe CA. The AAC is recognizing his overwhelming success so early in his climbing career with the Robert Hicks Bates Award, our annual award for up-and-coming you crushers who show exceptional promise for their future climbing endeavors. He's joining the likes of Kai Lightner, Margo Hayes, Sasha DiGuilian, Alex Honnold, and Colin Haley, among many others. In this episode, we sat down with Connor to talk about how he sets climbing goals, which of the 5.14s meant the most to him, what inspired him to try "Empath" on gear after sending it on bolts, and more. *** Grab a ticket to the AAC Annual Benefit Gala and hear from our award winners, enjoy our keynotes Former Vice President Al Gore & the Full Circle Everest Team, and celebrate with climbing legends: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

CLIMB: Madaleine Sorkin on Climbing the Dunn-Westbay Direct (5.14-)on The Diamond Feb 09, 2023

In the summer of 2022, Madaleine Sorkin freed the Dunn-Westbay Direct, the hardest route on the Diamond at 5.14-. She is the fifth person to send the route, and it is also the first female ascent of the climb. Because of how quickly she put down this proud alpine route, Madaleine has been nominated for the 2023 Climb of Year Award, the winner of which will be announced, alongside many other awards, at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Gala, which will be held in NY this year, from March 10th-11th. You can cast your vote and learn about the other nominees below. Beyond being a professional climber, Madeline is also a performance coach and founder of the Climbing Grief Fund. In this episode, we dive into Mad’s process for sending the Dunn-Westbay, focusing on place-based connections within climbing, processing the pressure of self-imposed goals, and the tactic of visualization. Cast your vote for the Climb of the Year Award: https://www.research.net/r/2023climbingawards-e Grab your tickets to the Annual Benefit Gala here: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala_tickets

CLIMB: Your Craziest Climbing Stories, Reviewed Jan 23, 2023

(Rated R for cussing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) We’re trying something different this episode. We’re getting chatty about your craziest climbing stories—submissions from listeners and online forums about the craziest days we’ve had in the mountains and at the crag. From yacking yaks to eerie alpine ghosts, falling over 100 ft and walking with only a few bruises, and dreams about mimosas with Alex Honnold, AAC staff members explore the absurd and ridiculous climbing shenanigans that you submitted to the podcast, and add a few of our own horror stories to boot. Make sure to hit that subscribe button so that you never miss an episode, we promise we won’t be this silly every time! If you're listening to this and you're thinking....@#%* I need to make sure I have rescue insurance next time I'm out at the crag....check it out here: https://americanalpineclub.org/rescue

EDUCATE: The Art of Shralpinism, with Jeremy Jones Dec 20, 2022

Legendary backcountry snowboarder Jeremy Jones describes being in the mountains as “The idiot’s guide to the present moment.” This wisdom and so much more shines through in this interview with Jeremy about his new book, “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains.” Shralpinism, or the art of shredding and alpinism combined, is, according to Jeremy, a mix of the wisdom of reading avalanche danger, the science of changing conditions due to climate change, the art of evaluating risk and pushing past fear, and so much more. Jeremy shares stories from his many years of snowboarding in Alaska and other big mountain ranges, his tips on training, why he fell in love with going up as well as flowing down mountains, why most climbers should learn a little something about snow, and how to wrestle with the hard lessons the mountains teach you about danger, risk, and confidence. Listen in to this episode to get stoked and learn from the legendary big mountain shredder, originator of Jones Snowboards and Protect Our Winters, and devoted practitioner of the Church of the Seven-day Recreationalists. You can get a copy of “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains” here: https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/the-art-of-shralpinism-lessons-from-the-mountains

CLIMB: Confessions of an Ice Climber Dec 13, 2022

According to Tyler Kempney, a competitor for the USA Ice Climbing team, ice climbing is the most human form of climbing. In this episode, we discuss this philosophy of ice climbing, training for competing, risk and decision-making in the mountains in winter, and lessons learned from close calls and technical ascents, like Tyler’s FA of "Conditional Love" on Long’s Peak. We dig into the ice climbing competitions coming up this winter, and why everyone should try ice climbing. And of course, we talk about Tyler’s favorite shape of ice cube. Find out how to watch the Ice Climbing World Cups and support the USA Ice Climbing team here: https://americanalpineclub.org/aac-member-federation-and-athletes

CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 pitches in Eldo Nov 25, 2022

Aubrey Runyon just climbed her 10,000th pitch in Eldorado Canyon—an area known for being sandbagged with sketchy gear—the bulk of which she did in the last 6 years. She’s had over 70 unique partners on the climb “Rewritten” alone, she knows ALL the gear beta to every climb…it’s honestly no wonder she’s frequently referred to as “The Mayor of Eldo.” In this episode, we sat down with Aubrey (who besides being a badass is also a volunteer for the AAC) to discuss completing her unusual goal, recovering from the trauma of witnessing a deadly climbing accident in her favorite place in the world, building queer community, and what actually happens when you take a whip on a can of pinto beans. *note that the audio is best on this podcast if you use headphones. Our bad!*

CLIMB: The 10th Mountain Division and the Evolution of Climbing After WWII Nov 10, 2022

You’ve probably heard of the 10th Mountain Division, but did you know that climbing is just as or MORE important than skiing in shaping this division of expert mountaineering troops? In this episode, we sat down with Christian Beckwith, the creator of the 90 Pound Rucksack Podcast, and writer of a book by the same name, to talk about how climbers influenced the creation of the 10th Mountain Division, how climbing itself was critical to a battle in Italy that helped facilitate the end of the WWII, and the many gear developments that evolved from the 10th Mountain Division that shaped the climbing and mountaineering boom after the war. If you’re a history buff, you are going to especially love this episode. But even as someone who doesn’t have a particular connection to history, or especially military history, you can’t deny that tracing the impact of climbing on a world scale hits the spot for anyone who loves this sport. Listen to more history of the 10th Mountain Division and their impact on climbing history on The Ninety Pound Rucksack podcast: https://christianbeckwith.com

PROTECT: Vote the Crag This November Oct 25, 2022

We’re sending it to the polls this midterm election….are you? In this mini-episode of the podcast, we sat down with the AAC’s Policy Director to discuss voting in the midterms this November, including important issues for climbers to consider, like public lands bills, climate change legislation, and judicial appointees. We keep it short and sweet since we know it can be overwhelming. So sit tight for the quick hits! Commit to Vote or Check your Registration here: https://americanalpineclub.org/vote?utm_source=octclubhouse&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=s2p2022

EDUCATE: Inside the Life of Search and Rescue Teams Oct 04, 2022

As mountain athletes, we know the expertise, technical knowledge, and bravery that goes into what Search and Rescue teams do—helping fellow mountain-lovers in distress. SAR work is invaluable, but it's also shrouded in mystery and can be pretty hard to talk about too, given the tragic outcomes of some rescues. In this episode of the podcast, we talk to Grant Kleeves, a volunteer with Ouray Mountain Rescue, one of the winning SAR teams for last year’s Rocky Talkie SAR Award. We talk to Grant about some of the operational and logistical challenges that SAR teams face, and he walks us through the decision making process for a particular rescue Ouray Mountain Rescue did in 2021. You might note that we don’t describe what caused the accident, or analyze the accident either. And this is on purpose. Most of the time, SAR teams get a call for services without much context, and they must make decisions based on what they know. The story that Grant shares with us reflects that tricky reality. *** The AAC and Rocky Talkie are partnering once again this year to offer the Search and Rescue Award—giving a total of $36,000 to three Search and Rescue teams who responded to 2022 incidents in exceptional and inspirational ways. If you or a friend are part of a SAR team that is doing the good work out there, make sure you apply (https://americanalpineclub.org/rocky-talkie-award)for the Award before the end of January 2023!

EDUCATE: Trends in Climbing Accidents, with Pete Takeda Sep 19, 2022

Pete Takeda might be new to editing "Accidents in North American Climbing," but he’s not new to the climbing game. With decades of experience, and through actively developing a database of all of the climbing accidents submitted to the publication for over half a century, he wields a unique level of knowledge about accident trends in climbing. In this episode, we sat down with Pete to talk about the process of selecting the stories and analysis for the "Accidents" publication each year, trends in climbing accidents that Pete has noticed through his work—including many that the climbing world has been ignoring for far too long—and the bravery of submitting a report in a world that loves to critique.

CLIMB: The Full Circle Everest Team Talks Joy, Partnership, and Climate Change Aug 31, 2022

The Full Circle Everest team was the first all-Black team to attempt Everest, and with the majority of their team summiting, they nearly doubled the number of Black climbers who have summited the highest mountain in the world. In this episode, we sit down with three members of the team—leader and longtime climber Philip Henderson, North Face Athlete Fred Campbell, and Kenyan guide and mountaineer James “KG” Kagambi, who is the first Black African to summit Denali, Aconcagua, and now Everest. We talked about moments of joy on the mountain, what they learned working alongside their expert Sherpa team, what motivated them to join this all-Black expedition, the evidence of climate change they witnessed, the challenges of mountaineering judgment on mountains with unstable conditions, and much more. Dive in for a dose of inspiration and insights you won’t want to miss. Members of the Full Circle Everest team will be giving a keynote speech for the AAC’s 2023 Annual Gala. Don’t forget to save the date and join us for the biggest, and fanciest, get-together of dirtbags around. Learn more here: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala Visit our website for more resources and the show notes: https://americanalpineclub.org/stories/#185

PROTECT: The Climbers' Advocacy Network Aug 15, 2022

I’m just one person…what can I do? Turns out, quite a lot—if you have the resources and support to join together with other climbers. That’s why we’ve created the Climbers' Advocacy Network (CAN). In this episode, we sat down with two individuals that love climbing—and just can’t stop themselves from getting involved in their climbing community. They have joined the Climber’s Advocacy Network and are advocating for issues that impact climbers near them. Sam, from the Colorado hub of CAN, and Reese, from the Georgia hub of CAN, discuss what motivates them and what they’ve been learning from participating in the Climbers' Advocacy Network. We also sat down with grassroots campaign consultant Skye Schell to help us contextualize the potential and possibility of the CAN within outdoor advocacy at large. Dive in and explore how climbers at the AAC are fighting the good fight to protect their local public lands and build equitable access to the outdoors. Learn more about the Climbers' Advocacy Network: https://americanalpineclub.org/conservation Support this work: https://membership.americanalpineclub.org/donate

CONNECT: Lynn Hill, Madaleine Sorkin, Arlene Blum, and Sarah Hart talk Female First Ascents Jul 27, 2022

This episode highlights a live panel that spans generations of trailblazing female climbers, including the iconic Lynn Hill, mountaineer Arlene Blum, big wall climber Madaleine Sorkin, and alpinist Sarah Hart. From the first American ascent of Annapurna I, to innumerable female first ascents, to the first free ascent of The Nose, these women bring immense experience and perspective to this conversation. The panelists discuss how their experiences as women have shaped their climbing, what counts as the cutting edge of women’s climbing and whether it should be analyzed separately from climbing in general, and the power of having role models for the next generation. Subscribe and ensure you never miss an episode!

CONNECT: Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing, with Lauren DeLaunay Miller Jul 13, 2022

Ruth Dyar Mendenhall finding a corpse on Washington Column. Liz and Royal Robbins establishing the famous Nutcracker Suite. Lynn Hill climbing hard aid climbs on El Cap for a change, and Steph Davis free climbing the Salathé Wall….We sat down with AAC member and writer, Lauren DeLaunay Miller, to talk about her new book, Valley of Giants: Stories From Women At The Heart of Yosemite Climbing, which contains all these stories and more from the deep well of Yosemite’s untold history. In this episode, we geek out about Yosemite, discuss what it’s like to talk to your climbing heroes, and discern the role of women in the famous Yosemite climbing generations: The Golden Age, The Stonemasters, and The Stone Monkeys. Dive into this episode to learn about these women’s stories, and what Lauren learned as she put together this groundbreaking book. You can buy Valley of Giants: Stories From Women At The Heart of Yosemite Climbing here: https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/valley-of-giants-stories-from-women-at-the-heart-of-yosemite-climbing Subscribe and make sure you never miss an episode!

CONNECT: Climb United and Louder Than Eleven Fund Upcoming Filmmakers Jun 24, 2022

Cody Kaemmerlen may be a dreamer, but he’s not the only one. Alongside his friends Jon and Jess Glassberg, founders of the film production company Louder Than Eleven, he dreamed up Pull Focus, a grant for underrepresented filmmakers. This grant, from the AAC’s Climb United initiative, funds a BIPOC, LGBTQ+ individual, and/or individual with seen and unseen disabilities to create their own film project with the mentorship of these industry leaders. In this episode, the AAC chats with Jon, Jess, and Cody about barriers to the outdoor film industry, what the recipient can expect during the internship, epic tales from the “set” of climbing films, and why this all matters. If you want to apply for the grant yourself, find out more at americanalpineclub.org/pull-focus-grant. If you want to support this work, join the Club or renew your membership at americanalpineclub.org/join. If you do so before the end of June, and you use the promo code UNITED22SHIRT, you’ll get a free limited edition t-shirt! Subscribe and make sure you never miss an episode!

PROTECT: Joshua Tree Climbing Management Plan May 23, 2022

Joshua Tree National Park is going to ban bolts? Hold up now. The conversation around land management and climbing management plans (CMP) can get a little tense when climbers feel like our access to the rock is under threat. But what is really going on with J-Tree NP’s proposed management plan? It’s not as simple as the banning bolts rumor would have it. AAC Policy Manager, Taylor Luneau, and former Joshua Tree Superintendent, Mark Butler, sit down with us to talk about the need for the CMP, the tricky land management paradox of bolts in designated Wilderness areas, and how you can get involved to protect Joshua Tree and promote responsible climbing.

Legacy Series: Steve House’s Brush with Death on Mount Temple Mar 29, 2022

In this episode of the AAC Legacy Series, alpinist Steve House recounts his traumatic fall on Mount Temple, a fall that pulverized several of his ribs, fractured his back, and punctured a lung. Thanks to rescue efforts, Steve was able to narrowly escape death, but such a close call led Steve to think about the need to reprioritize contributing to his community and building meaningful relationships. Despite dramatic injuries, Steve would go on to climb Makalu less than a year later. Subscribe and make sure you never miss an episode!

Legacy Series: Yvon Chouinard, Founder of Patagonia, Muses About His Early Days of Climbing Mar 29, 2022

Yvon Chouinard is a well-known figure in climbing history, especially known for his innovative gear developments for the sport, like the ice axe and crampons, and his founding of Patagonia, one of the leading brands in the outdoor industry. Yvon’s stories reveal the early years of vision and dedication that shaped climbing as it is today, and ridiculous tales of the true dirtbag ways. In this episode, Yvon shares tales of eating expired cat food, selling pitons out of the back of his car, and shiver bivvies where his partners insulated their coats with crumpled pages of a novel.

Legacy Series: The First American Ascent of Annapurna, Through the Eyes of Irene Beardsley Mar 25, 2022

On a 1961 expedition to Makulu, Edmund Hillary forbade Irene Beardsley to step foot on the mountain, despite her impressive mountaineering resume, including ascents in the Tetons and Peru. But Irene was hungry for summits, regardless of being relegated to the “wives camp.” She knew a woman’s place was on top. This hunger would drive her to be part of the first American, and all-women’s, expedition to summit Annapurna I.

CLIMB: World Champion Natalia Grossman Talks Community and Trying Hard Mar 01, 2022

Bouldering World Champion Natalia Grossman is one of this year's winners of the Robert Hicks Bates Award, an award we celebrate at our upcoming Annual Benefit Gala. We decided to sit down with Natalia and talk competition, community, and trying hard, to get more of a picture of how she thinks as a competitor that has immense potential to keep taking the climbing world by storm.

CLIMB: Soloing El Cap with Adrien Costa, Catalyst Grant Winner and Adaptive Climber Feb 04, 2022

Adrien Costa never imagined he would be looking up at El Cap, ready to put in his own attempt on the wall, with one leg of flesh and bone and the other made of metal and hydraulics. In this episode, the AAC interviews Adrien about his journey from pro cyclist to daring adaptive climber with a taste for soloing, and digs into the details of his proud rope solo ascent of El Cap funded by an AAC Catalyst grant.

PROTECT: An Interview on Climate with Graham Zimmerman & Jill Pelto Jan 04, 2022

Graham Zimmerman is an alpinist and climate advocate–scaling the highest mountains in the world and energizing climbers around taking action to fight climate change. Jill Pelto is a climate artist whose aesthetic tactics of combining climate data with artistic expression is striking and thought-provoking. In this discussion, the AAC dives in with Graham and Jill about communicating the intricacies of climate change, climate impacts they’ve personally witnessed in the mountains, what motivates them to advocate, and why it matters to climbers so damn much.

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